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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Jul 7, 2022

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium

A French watchmaking startup founded in 2017 that successfully reimagined several well-known vintage designs, Baltic has just unveiled highest-spec dive watch to date – and arguably its most contemporary design. While still clearly vintage-inspired in terms of aesthetics, the Aquascaphe Titanium does better than its predecessor in terms of materials, construction, as well as water resistance. The result is a more substantial watch that’s pricier but still value minded. The bezel insert is brushed ceramic with luminous markings Initial thoughts For a brand that’s heavily reliant on vintage watches for insrpaiton, the Aquascaphe Titanium is a welcome departure from its other offerings. Granted it still retains a retro feel, but does so with materials that are decidedly modern, namely ceramic and titanium. On the subject of materials, one aspect that distinguishes the new Aquascaphe is the highly-domed sapphire crystal that calls to mind PlexiGlas found on vintage watches. Rarely found in modern dive watches at this price, most of which utilise flat crystals, the domed crystal results in slight visual distortion of the dial’s edges, which might not help legibility but certainly adds to the vintage feel. Another key detail that contributes to the appealing vintage styling is the all-brushed finish on both the case and bezel, along with the tasteful typography, which speak to the brand’s attention to detail. At the same time, the design that combines smart details w...

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Richard Mille Unveils the Thinnest Mechanical Watch Ever SJX Watches
Richard Mille Unveils Jul 6, 2022

Richard Mille Unveils the Thinnest Mechanical Watch Ever

Having signed Ferrari as a partner last year, Richard Mille was expected to debut a Ferrari wristwatch – and probably one with a seven-figure price tag. And so it has, although the watch itself is certainly a surprise. The first watch to result from the partnership is the RM UP-01 Ferrari, the thinnest mechanical watch ever at just 1.75 mm high, besting the previous record holder by 0.05 mm. Very wide and extremely flat, the RM UP-01 achieves that by relying on familiar principles in terms of mechanical deconstruction and reduction, but takes them slightly further to shave off the millimetres. Initial thoughts The last couple of years have seen the record for the thinnest mechanical watch change hands rapidly, with Piaget taking the title in 2018 with the AUC (that came to market in 2020), followed by Bulgari earlier this year with the Octo Finissimo Ultra. The Italian jeweller did not retain the crown for long because Richard Mille has just claimed the title with the RM UP-01 that stands 1.75 mm high, compared to 1.8 mm for the Bulgari. Tellingly, the approach taken by Richard Mille echoes that of Piaget and Bulgari, essentially deconstructing the movement and doing away with as many components as possible. As a result, the RM UP-01 has parallels with the former record holders, most obviously in the tiny time display as well as the deconstructed winding and setting mechanism that each require a key. That indicates that absolute thinness has more or less been achieved...

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The link between crypto and collectible watches is becoming clearer Time+Tide
Jul 6, 2022

The link between crypto and collectible watches is becoming clearer

For years, in the circles I’m a part of, watch collectors have been asking a simple question. As watch prices continue to skyrocket, who in the bloody hell is buying pieces at these premiums? Premiums that are two, three, sometimes four times the original retail price. We all agree that there are ridiculously wealthy people … ContinuedThe post The link between crypto and collectible watches is becoming clearer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Jul 5, 2022

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture

Greubel Forsey’s house style is often contemporary in design but traditional in decoration and construction, an approach best embodied by its watches with an open-worked movement for the dial. Now the brand has reimagined its usually classical movement aesthetic and combined it with a sleek and sharp case to create the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the Architecture is fundamentally an iteration of the brand’s fastest-rotating and inclined tourbillon, it is powered by an all-new movement with swooping bridges and satisfyingly sharp lines. And the new calibre is contained within a sleek titanium case with an integrated strap, one no doubt inspired by its bestselling sports watches. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the watch, my instinctive reaction was that it lived up to the name – it is impressive and architectural. I like the complex forms within the movement, which creates immense depth while also being slightly organic thanks to the curved, polished bridges. And the streamlined case is impressively detailed, especially on its flanks and edges. In fact, the Architecture is a major step forward over its predecessors in terms of architecture, no pun intend, in how it creates a strikingly more modern aesthetic for the movement while preserving the signature Greubel Forsey elements like the enormous bridge for the canon pinion that holds the hands or the jewels in chatons. One ingredient of its successful architecture is the shrewd and genero...

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550 words of extremely valuable – and at times explicit – dating advice in heavy horological lingo Time+Tide
Jul 3, 2022

550 words of extremely valuable – and at times explicit – dating advice in heavy horological lingo

Editor’s note: There’s more to life than watches. There’s also dating, and how to handle your love life business. In one of the most peculiar, but wonderful, stories ever filed at Time+Tide, Borna has compiled some pointers about, uh, coupling up. There is a catch, though. If you’re not up to date with horological terminology, it’s going to … ContinuedThe post 550 words of extremely valuable – and at times explicit – dating advice in heavy horological lingo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Hot-Hammered Haute Horlogerie – Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX” SJX Watches
Rolex Submariner Todd Rexford Jul 1, 2022

Up Close: Hot-Hammered Haute Horlogerie – Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”

One of the more intriguing watches debuted by an independent watchmaker in the year to date is the Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”, a collaboration between Hungarian watchmaker Aaron Becsei and American knife maker Todd Rexford. Conceived at the behest of a Thai collector living in Japan, the Project XX is based  on Bexei’s time-only model but its case, dial, and movement plates in zirconium, a resilient metal with properties similar to titanium. Mr Becsei is already known for his high-quality movements and regular readers will remember the Vox Vinum grande sonnerie wristwatch he completed in 2019. His partner in his project is a leading artisanal knife maker whose one-off knives regularly sell for more than a Rolex Submariner, Todd Rexford. An artisan who works with metal in ways similar to a watchmaker, Mr Rexford uses the many of same tools found in a watchmaker’s workshop, like lathes, jig borers, and drills; he even makes his own screws. And he clearly works to the same tolerances since he produced the movement bridges for the Project XX. A defining element of the Project XX are its “hot hammered” zirconium components, namely the dial and movement bridges. It’s the signature material of Mr Rexford’s that he often uses for the handles of his knives. The zirconium dial and movement parts were produced and then hot hammered by Mr Rexford, resulting in a textured finish that sharply contrasts with the lustrous movement decoration applied by Mr Bexei. I...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Yankee Stadium, Billion Oyster Project, and the best of Oris Time+Tide
Oris Jul 1, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Yankee Stadium, Billion Oyster Project, and the best of Oris

This week is a special edition of the Friday Wind Down, dedicated to all things Oris. Ricardo and I had two action-packed days with Oris earlier this week, spending one day at Yankee Stadium and another getting hands-on with the work of the Billion Oyster Project on Governors Island. As a New Yorker, I have … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Yankee Stadium, Billion Oyster Project, and the best of Oris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The TAG Heuer Superdiver is an Aquaracer on steroids Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Superdiver Jul 1, 2022

The TAG Heuer Superdiver is an Aquaracer on steroids

If we’re going to refer to it correctly, the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver really is more super in many ways than existing Aquaracer models. Combining massive water resistance and tough materials with a brand new movement, TAG Heuer is positioning the Superdiver as an out-and-out tool watch, sitting atop the constantly updated Aquaracer … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Superdiver is an Aquaracer on steroids appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Breitling Introduces the Superocean Diver Inspired by the “Slow Motion” SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Jun 30, 2022

Breitling Introduces the Superocean Diver Inspired by the “Slow Motion”

Breitling’s recent releases have stuck to a familiar and effective formula – watches rooted in the brand’s heritage but updated to distinguish them as modern and original, exemplified by the redesigned Chronomat and Navitimer. Now the brand has taken the covers off the Superocean Automatic, a dive watch inspired by the SuperOcean Slow Motion chronograph of the 1960s. While it borrows the original’s two-tone dial and massive, oblong markers, the new Superocean is a clean, time-only watch with no complications and of course a modern construction that includes a ceramic bezel insert as well as quick-adjustment clasp. The SuperOcean Slow Motion ref. 2005 Initial thoughts I’ve always liked past versions of Superocean with bright-coloured dials because they were quite different from other dive watches without being overly fancy. By the same token, I like the latest version as the redesigned dial makes it stand out even more, once again without trying to do too much. No date is great In fact, the Superocean is arguably all about design. Being ETA powered, it is less competitive against offerings from similarly-priced offerings from likes of Tudor (which relies on more sophisticated Kenissi movements), so the Superocean has to excel in terms of look and feel. And it manages to do so with the combination of an extra-wide chapter ring around a “mini” dial, a bold and handsome design that is unlike most of its peers. Aside from the overall design, the dial also appe...

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That time two unexpected celebrities joined the Nautilus club Time+Tide
Jun 30, 2022

That time two unexpected celebrities joined the Nautilus club

Editor’s Note: The Nautilus is back in the news, but not for the reason we’ve become used to. Lofty aftermarket prices are beginning to face a tad of a correction. It seems this brand makes news on the way up and on the way back. But this is likely of little concern to these two chaps … ContinuedThe post That time two unexpected celebrities joined the Nautilus club appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Delma Montego is a classic, sporty chronograph Time+Tide
Jun 28, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Delma Montego is a classic, sporty chronograph

Producing watches from their headquarters in Lengnau, Switzerland, Delma offers a wide array of options, from ’50s-inspired dress watches to bold DLC-coated divers rated for depths of 4000 metres. After looking at the Cayman Bronze earlier this year, the watch we’re introducing today is the new Delma Montego chronograph, the brand’s take on a classic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Delma Montego is a classic, sporty chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The new Yema Superman 500 offers heritage and in-house design at an incredible price Time+Tide
Yema Jun 27, 2022

The new Yema Superman 500 offers heritage and in-house design at an incredible price

Often when I dig into the requests folder of my DMs, various people shoot me a message asking what would be a good entry-level watch they could wear daily. Entry level, within the realm of luxury watches, is considered to be right at the $3,000 mark. This, however, for most is not entry – many … ContinuedThe post The new Yema Superman 500 offers heritage and in-house design at an incredible price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Norqain Introduces the Independence 22 Skeleton SJX Watches
Norqain Introduces Jun 27, 2022

Norqain Introduces the Independence 22 Skeleton

A young brand that’s managed to pull together impressive knowhow across the supply chain – most notably by turning to Kenissi for its movements and recruiting Jean-Claude Biver – Norqain is all about affordable, sporty watches. Most of Norqain’s offerings stick to a similar formula, but of its more interesting watches is the newly-launched Independence 22 Skeleton. Sellita-powered and open-worked, the model was originally released as a 100-piece run with a DLC-coated case and bracelet. The limited edition sold briskly, which explains the new, regular-production version in steel with a tone-on-tone look that’s arguably better looking than its all-black predecessor. Initial thoughts Skeletonised watches that are affordable – meaning a retail price of US$5,000 or less – often look the part. Such watches are usually plain and occasionally cheap looking, purely as a consequence of price constraints. But the Independence 22 Skeleton manages to avoid that and it looks good as the sum of its parts. The Independence skeleton gets a lot right. To start with, the case measures 42 mm wide and 11.8 mm tall – it’s a big watch but the width-to-height ratio is well balanced; a smaller case would have made it seem disproportionately thick. The movement has been intricately open worked and most of the brass wheels have been rhodium-plated for a consistent, monochromatic appearance that illustrate the attention to detail in its design. Combined with the raised chapter ...

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