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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

MEET THE TEAM: Zach (and Andrew) share their top 5 picks from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 30, 2022

MEET THE TEAM: Zach (and Andrew) share their top 5 picks from Watches & Wonders

When I went to Geneva for Watches & Wonders, the best way to describe the journey would be a horological food coma of bliss. Never before had I engaged with so many brands and timepieces at once, a delectable 40-brand course meal for a week straight. Of course, with such a wide menu of watches … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Zach (and Andrew) share their top 5 picks from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

English Independents Team Up for the “Fears Garrick” SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser which Apr 29, 2022

English Independents Team Up for the “Fears Garrick”

A pair of watchmakers with English roots, Fears and Garrick have banded together to create a wristwatch that bears the aesthetic of the former while relying on the mechanics of the latter, the Fears Garrick. Founded in 1846 but having gone out of business during the Quartz Crisis, Fears is an English brand that was revived in 2016 by a descendant of its founder. Though it was not in continuous operation, Fears is now one of the oldest, family-owned English watch brands. Its modern-day offerings are all about clean, simple designs inspired by watches from its past catalogue, which are sometimes paired with period-correct, vintage movements. Garrick, on the other hand, was founded in 2014. Sitting in a higher price point than the typical Fears, Garrick’s offerings are constructed with the help of Swiss specialists, including Andreas Strehler, and dressed up with traditional decoration such as engine turning. David Brailsford of Garrick (left), and Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great-grandson of Fears’ founder Initial thoughts The Fears Garrick is essentially a Garrick S1, the brand’s most impressive offering to date, but redesigned to give it a simpler aesthetic. Though intriguing, the open dial of the S1 has been done away with and the result is minimalist but appealing. I actually prefer the look of the Fears Garrick over the S1. But the Fears Garrick does bring to mind the IWC Portugieser, which is a good thing. For anyone who found the movement of ...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Control in Blue SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Apr 29, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Control in Blue

The Master Control was first conceived in 1992 as Jaeger-LeCoultre’s best offering in terms of accuracy and reliability, with every watch undergoing a 1,000-hour, in-house quality control test. While the rigorous testing was fairly novel at the time, it has since become the norm for all Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) watches. But the Master Control line has lived on. Facelifted in 2020, the Master Control watches have grown moderately in size to suit contemporary states but they retain the restrained design that characterised the original range. Most of the models sport a muted silver dial, but for the 30th anniversary of the collection, JLC has introduced the Master Control Date and Master Control Calendar with tri-tone blue dials. The simpler of the duo – the Master Control Date Initial thoughts My first impression of the watches is positive. Blue is a contemporary colour that nudges the aesthetic towards a more casual style, as opposed to the retro-formal look of the standard, silver-dial models. Notably, the limited-edition pair are ore than a change of colour. The thoughtful design is evident through the details, especially with the tri-tone finish of the dial. While blue can be found practically everywhere in watchmaking, tri-tone blue is unusual and attractive. And the calendar windows reveal discs that are in blue to match the dial. The red accents as well as the starry background of the moon phase are details that make the dial more interesting Both watches are othe...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Complecto – a watch community with diversity at the forefront Time+Tide
Apr 29, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Complecto – a watch community with diversity at the forefront

Ricardo here again! Before I hand the mic back over to Zach for the usual Friday Wind Down programming, I quickly wanted to give a shoutout to an exciting event happening this week here in NYC. Months back, we did a  “Who to Follow” feature on Jason, who was focused on building a new type … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Complecto – a watch community with diversity at the forefront appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MEET THE TEAM: Buffy’s top 5 leftfield picks from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 29, 2022

MEET THE TEAM: Buffy’s top 5 leftfield picks from Watches & Wonders

This year’s Watches & Wonders amazed me, not just because I was shocked by the scale of the in-person event, but because so many different brands decided to buck all trends. Sure, there were plenty of green dials, but there also seems to be a growing desire for watches that show a quirkier personality, and … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Buffy’s top 5 leftfield picks from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Exploring the Baume & Mercier novelties from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Apr 28, 2022

VIDEO: Exploring the Baume & Mercier novelties from Watches & Wonders

Baume & Mercier have established themselves as a go-to option for great watches at a mid-range luxury price, and their impressive lineup from Watches & Wonders only expands the possibilities for potential customers to fall in love. While their more heritage-focused lines such as the Classima and the Hampton received a few tasty updates, it’s … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exploring the Baume & Mercier novelties from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Rado Captain Cook 2022 collection Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook 2022 collection Apr 28, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Rado Captain Cook 2022 collection

The Rado Captain Cook has proved a big hit since its launch in 2017 with its vintage-inspired looks reimagined with a smooth, contemporary edge that gives the watch a unique character among the hundreds of other Swiss dive watches. The range has gradually expanded over the last few years to include a 37mm version, different … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Rado Captain Cook 2022 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Northern Lights For Ukraine: GoS Auctions Unique Piece Norrsken For Charity Quill & Pad
Apr 27, 2022

Northern Lights For Ukraine: GoS Auctions Unique Piece Norrsken For Charity

Patrik Sjögren of GoS was already active on Instagram in support of Ukraine in early March, at which time he saw an opportunity to help in the form of a collaboration with artist Matthew Miller (@sunflowerman.watch). The result is the GoS Northern Lights for Ukraine Norrsken unique piece now being auctioned by Sotheby's. Elizabeth Doerr explains what it is and how it came about here.

Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week Time+Tide
Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe Apr 27, 2022

Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week

It’s easy to understand the dangerous appeal of online auction platform, Loupe This. For a start, it’s co-owned by internationally renowned watch dealer / super-collector, Eric Ku (read this story about his crazy life here). As a result of his know-how and connections, the product on offer is always intriguing. “What we want to do, is … ContinuedThe post Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202 and the Cal. 7121 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref Apr 27, 2022

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202 and the Cal. 7121

Launched in January 2022 to kick off the 50th anniversary year of Audemars Piguet’s most famous watch, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 is the latest generation – or the third generation specifically – of the quintessential Royal Oak design. Design-wise the new “Jumbo” doesn’t depart from its predecessor, the ref. 15202, or even the original ref. 5402 of 1972. Audemars Piguet (AP) has smartly kept the design unchanged, but the watch has been thoroughly and smartly upgraded in many respects, especially in terms of ergonomics and mechanics. The new “Jumbo” is undoubtedly a “hype” watch of today, but it has considerable intrinsic qualities that mark it out as a thoughtfully constructed timepiece, most notably the cal. 7121 within that’s entirely new and the replacement for the long-in-tooth cal. 2120/2121 that has powered every generation of the “Jumbo” since 1972. Developed from the ground up to fit the slim dimensions of the “Jumbo” case, the cal. 7121 still manages to incorporate various amenities and advancements expected in a 21st century construction by a respected manufacture. We explain the movement in depth below. Initial thoughts Famously penned by Gerald Genta in 1972, the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 has near perfect proportions. Wide but flat, angular yet graceful, the “Jumbo” is easily distinguishable from other Royal Oak models. Most other Royal Oak models tend to be thicker regardless of diameter, making the ...

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s Sets Record for Most Expensive Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2499 Sotheby’s just Apr 27, 2022

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s Sets Record for Most Expensive Patek Philippe Ref. 2499

Sotheby’s just concluded the first sale of the spring auction season, which now moves to Geneva with a series of auctions in the Swiss city starting the first weekend of May. The season opened strongly with several records set at Sotheby’s, most notably with The Nevadian Collector, a sale of Patek Philippe timepieces all owned by an American collector. Made up of 38 watches and one lot of vintage Gay Freres bracelets, the auction was led by an unsurprising favourite that sold for a record price – the possibly unique ref. 2499 in pink gold with a dial signed “Gobbi Milano”. Sotheby’s consultant Sam Hines bringing the hammer down on the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” Four telephone bidders competed for the watch, with bidding swift and aggressive. One of the bidders went big early on, taking the bid from HK$19 million to HK$30 million with one bid – an increment of about US$1.4 million. Eventually one of the phone bidders triumphed and set the record for the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction. The pink ref. 2499 “Gobbi” hammered for HK$50 million, resulting in a total of HK$60.265 million including the buyer’s premium. That’s equivalent to about US$7.68 million, making it the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction by some margin. The last record holder was the ref. 2499 “Asprey” that sold in 2018 for about US$ 4 million at Sotheby’s in Geneva – which was also sold by the Nevadian. While the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” was the headline lot,...

MEET THE TEAM: Ricardo’s top five from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 26, 2022

MEET THE TEAM: Ricardo’s top five from Watches & Wonders

We’re a couple of weeks removed from Watches and Wonders and I’ve had enough time to recover from all the spicy salami and new watch releases. I’ve thought about the 100+ watches that I spent a few minutes with, in the hope of identifying those that left a lasting impression. And truly, there were some … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Ricardo’s top five from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Seven Days of Cartier on Loupe This SJX Watches
Cartier Apr 25, 2022

Auction Watch: Seven Days of Cartier on Loupe This

Online-only watch auctioneer Loupe This has just announced a week of Cartier watches, with two watches being listed daily from April 25 to 29. The lineup is headlined by an original Crash made by Cartier London in 1969 that comes direct from the original owner no less. It has an appropriate hefty estimate of US$500,000-800,000. London Crash Some of the other highlights in the sale include a trio of white-metal Tanks, including a Tank Asymetrique in platinum, one of a hundred made in 1996. Estimated at US$30,000-50,000, it’s smaller than the recent Prive Tank Asymetrique, with dimensions comparable to the classic Tank LC, which is the next watch. Tank Asymétrique This is a rare variant of an otherwise common watch. Produced for several decades in a range of iterations, the Tank Louis Cartier, or “LC”, is commonly found in yellow gold, but less often in white gold, and rarely with a period-correct bracelet. Dating to the 1970s, this has an estimate of US$20,000-30,000. Tank LC Another Tank from the 1970s is this Tank Cintree “Jumbo”, also in white gold and once again with a matching gold bracelet. This is the largest size of arguably the most desirable Tank model, but made slightly more affordable by the fact that it was made in the 1970s instead of the first decades of the 20th century. The estimate is US$50,000-80,000. Tank Cintree The first pair go live on Monday, April 25, Los Angeles time (GMT-7), which will be April 26 for most of the world. You can see them...

Nivada Grenchen Introduces the Chronomaster “Perpétuel” SJX Watches
Nivada Grenchen Introduces Apr 25, 2022

Nivada Grenchen Introduces the Chronomaster “Perpétuel”

A brand that went defunct during the Quartz Crisis like many of its peers, Nivada Grenchen was resurrected in 2020, again like many of its peers. While the historical brand was perhaps best known as one of the earliest makers of the automatic wristwatch, Nivada Grenchen now offers affordable, vintage-inspired watches that seem straight out of its old catalogue. The brand’s signature product is a 38 mm hand-wind chronograph modelled on a 1960s original, which now gets an Eastern Arabic makeover with the Chronomaster “Perpétuel” Limited Edition Set. Made for the eponymous Dubai watch store, the watch is packaged in a box that includes a leather watch case and Chronomaster Only, a reference book detailing the history of Nivada. Initial thoughts If you like vintage-style chronographs, Chronomaster is an appealing proposition in its original form, thanks to the restrained case size that’s identical to the vintage original. And the Sellita movement inside means the Chonomaster is an affordable entry into the world of retro, hand-wind chronographs, which is admittedly crowded with many, many comparable options. But this version is slightly different. Typical of Perpétuel editions – and reflecting the store’s regional focus – the Chronomaster gets Eastern Arabic numerals for he dial and bezel. Though such numerals have become relatively common and predictable on Middle East editions, this is noteworthy for two reasons. One is the fact that all the numerals on ...

INTRODUCING: Hublot debuts the first-ever 100% ceramic-cased minute repeater Time+Tide
Hublot debuts Apr 25, 2022

INTRODUCING: Hublot debuts the first-ever 100% ceramic-cased minute repeater

Hublot is all about material innovation and each year they continue to step it up. This Watches & Wonders, for example, they expanded their sapphire portfolio by adding the colour purple. But while it seems Hublot can bring something new each release cycle with ease, each effort is, of course, the fruit of extensive labour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Hublot debuts the first-ever 100% ceramic-cased minute repeater appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Gabriel delivers singular looks at a bargain price Time+Tide
Apr 25, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Gabriel delivers singular looks at a bargain price

The popularity of microbrands is predominantly down to two main reasons. Firstly, there is the fact that they’re often far more affordable than established watch brands, but of equal importance is their relative freedom to create fresh ideas without the pressure that a century-long history brings. Instead of re-hashing old designs with slight updates every … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Gabriel delivers singular looks at a bargain price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MEET THE TEAM: Jeremy’s 5 favourite steel sports watches from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 25, 2022

MEET THE TEAM: Jeremy’s 5 favourite steel sports watches from Watches & Wonders

A couple of years ago, when I first started @timepeacelove, my Instagram page dedicated to my passion for watches, I made a joke to my wife saying, “Hey, maybe one day I’ll get the chance to experience Watches and Wonders in Geneva.” I would have never thought that day would come, but my experience last month … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Jeremy’s 5 favourite steel sports watches from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week Time+Tide
Apr 24, 2022

Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week

Years ago, when I watched the documentary The Watchmaker’s Apprentice, which details the journey of George Daniels and the path of watchmaker Roger W. Smith becoming his sole apprentice, I remember being awe-struck at the meticulous art of watchmaking and  the perseverance required to achieve mastery in the field. Since that documentary, however, there have not … ContinuedThe post Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter: Concentrically Colorful Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter Concentrically Apr 23, 2022

Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter: Concentrically Colorful

Rarely has the term sports watch been as appropriate as when applied to the BR 03-94 Multimeter from Bell & Ross. This nifty chronograph displays five different scales on the dial to measure various things. In that sense, it is a modern-day version of the vintage chronographs with “snail scales” that did the same, though not in such an elaborate way.