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The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Jul 17, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red

H. Moser & Cie. debuted its inaugural sporty watch in 2015 with the Pioneer Centre Seconds (and followed up recently with the even more sporty Streamliner). Now Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red with a red fumé dial joins the line up. Both the colour and name are inspired by the original Swiss Mad watch of 2017, which took its colours from the Swiss national flag. Initial thoughts As is typical of Moser’s fumé finish, the dial is immediately gripping. The graduated, smoked finish results in a colour that varies in shade depending on lighting and perspective, which adds a lot of visual appeal. Though graduated-colour dials were not invented by Moser, it has become synonymous with the brand. Moser has presented fumé dials in green and many shades of blue, but bold red finish is perhaps the most enticing to date. Although the Pioneer is technically a sports watch, the elegant styling of the dial does not translate well onto such the large, almost-43 mm case, which definitely wears and looks large on the wrist. I would have preferred a case of say, 38 mm, large enough to be a sports watch, while still complimenting the dial. Minimalism While the colour is striking, the watch itself is minimalist and no-frills in the usual Moser style, displaying only the time without any superfluous elements on the dial. Still, the dial manages to incorporate several details that add to the appeal, including faceted markers, open-worked hands, and luminous dots on the flange. De...

We can’t stop looking at the ‘gender neutral’ Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink and we don’t know why Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink Jul 17, 2020

We can’t stop looking at the ‘gender neutral’ Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink and we don’t know why

In a move to be expected of a brand like Hublot, the provocative wunderkind of the industry has just released a new limited edition in collaboration with Garage Italia and the grandson of the Rake of the Riviera himself, Lapo Elkann. The Big Bang Millennial Pink is based on the Unico 42mm chronograph and features … ContinuedThe post We can’t stop looking at the ‘gender neutral’ Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink and we don’t know why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: To all the girls (and boys) who have written to us over the years … Time+Tide
Jul 16, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: To all the girls (and boys) who have written to us over the years …

Despite the temptation to re-tune our tiny violins and cry to the world that our virus numbers have skyrocketed and that we’re all on the brink of yet another endless day indoors, I’m going to flip this one to the positive and talk about the kinds of amazing, heartening and impressive letters and emails we … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: To all the girls (and boys) who have written to us over the years … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A design that divides – the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6007A-001 meets its lookalikes head on Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6007A-001 meets Jul 16, 2020

A design that divides – the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6007A-001 meets its lookalikes head on

Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch of 2020 didn’t go down quite as well as the complicated models that have followed this week to practically unanimous praise. By contrast, the Calatrava Ref.6007A-001, limited to just 1000 pieces and made to celebrate the legacy brand’s new manufacture was met with many more brickbats than bouquets. Why? Well, according … ContinuedThe post A design that divides – the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6007A-001 meets its lookalikes head on appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks Jul 15, 2020

The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point

Editor’s note: There’s the simple fact that Seiko are turning up the heat on the Swiss watch industry, and then there’s the way they’re doing it. Both are 100% worth taking note of. For example, let’s re-examine the Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J, a high-spec Spring Drive GMT at a shade under $8000AUD, that carries with it a murdered … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Prospex LX Limited Edition SNR045 Spring Drive Diver SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jul 15, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Prospex LX Limited Edition SNR045 Spring Drive Diver

Launched at Baselworld last year, the Seiko Prospex LX is a series of solidly-engineered sports watches conceived for air, land and sea – and designed in collaboration with Ken Okuyama, once the Creative Director at Pininfarina and one of Japan’s most prolific car designers. Powered by Seiko’s trademark Spring Drive movement, the Prospex LX Limited Edition SNR045 retains the familiar design modelled on the Seiko 1968 Hi-beat Diver, but now dressed in green. The textured dial is inspired by an underwater forest of moss pillars – nicknamed “kokebozu”, or “moss child”, by Japanese scientists – located at the bottom of a lake in Antarctica’s Skarvsnes Foreland. The “kokebozu” moss pillars in Antarctica Initial thoughts With both its dial and glossy ceramic bezel in forest green, the watch is immediately striking – and reminiscent of well-known, hulking green dive watch. The all-green dive watch is fashionable now, and Seiko is one amongst a host of brands doing it, so the colour is not unique. But Seiko executes its watches well – quality is excellent inside and out – and excels in highly-functional dive watches that perform well in legibility and usability. That sets this apart from the competition. As a sucker for textured dials, the ribbed dial pattern – meant to evoke the aquatic moss pillars – is highly appealing. It adds depth and character to what is otherwise a no-nonsense “tool” watch. I am not a fan of the power reserve in...

VIDEO: The 2020 Longines Heritage Collection is pure class, from the tuxedo to the skies and the trenches Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Collection Jul 15, 2020

VIDEO: The 2020 Longines Heritage Collection is pure class, from the tuxedo to the skies and the trenches

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, it should come as no surprise that the Longines Heritage Collection has gone from strength to strength over the last few years. An early sign of the success that was to come was the Longines Heritage Diver 1967 in 2015 (a watch that was kindly donated to the Time+Tide … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The 2020 Longines Heritage Collection is pure class, from the tuxedo to the skies and the trenches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jul 14, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Unveiled in 2015, the ref. 5370P-001 was Patek Philippe’s second split-seconds chronograph powered by an in-house caliber, after the watches equipped the smaller, slimmer, and far more expensive CHR 27-525 movement. With a black grand feu enamel dial featuring Breguet numerals that gave it an eminently classical style, the ref. 5370P was a hit with fans of the brand. Now the black-dial ref. 5370P has been discontinued and replaced by the Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370P-011. The new model is identical – with the same CHR 29-535 PS inside a 41 mm platinum case – except for the dial, which is now grand feu enamel in a stunning blue. Initial thoughts Like many others, I am a huge fan of the 2015 original for its balanced, restrained design that is also eminently legible and clear. As a fan of Patek Philippe’s traditional designs, the watch was also appealing for the design lineage that can be traced to Patek Philippe watches of the mid-20th century. While the original is compelling for its vintage cues, the new version feels more modern with the blue enamel dial. As a colour that’s been in vogue for a couple of years, the new dial transforms the personality of the watch into one that is more contemporary. While this facelift will undoubtedly be popular because blue dials are the colour du jour, I still have a preference for the original as the black enamel dial was more understated and in keeping with the brand’s historical designs. Precious materials Being...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref. 5303R-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jul 14, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref. 5303R-001

Originally introduced as the 12-piece limited edition ref. 5303R-010 for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019, the Minute Repeater Tourbillon was a unique watch amongst the brand’s grand complications. It combined an open dial, partially-skeletonised movement equipped with a minute repeater and tourbillon, within a case with contrast-colour gold inlays. Now the reference has entered the catalogue as a regular-production model with the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref. 5303R-001. Initial thoughts When first debuted during the Grand Exhibition in Singapore, the ref. 5303R was polarising but popular. Traditionalists who favour the old-school Patek Philippe style (think Breguet numerals and leaf hands) didn’t appreciate it, but those who wanted something more contemporary or unusual loved it. Initially I though the look was too much, but came to appreciate it, especially in the context of a Patek Philippe collector who already has several watches. This looks different, while still having all of the key features that make it appealing, namely the excellent minute repeater sound and the “octopus” wheel on the back. Skeletonised and inlaid The key features of the new watch are identical to the Singapore edition. The movement is the Cal. R TO 27 PS, featuring both a minute repeater with cathedral gongs and tourbillon. Both the complications are visible on the dial, with the hammers and racks exposed at 11 o’clock, and the gongs circling the dial. Th...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jul 14, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001

After an extended absence, Patek Philippe’s signature perpetual calendar chronograph is once again available in yellow gold with the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001. The new watch joins the platinum and rose gold versions currently in the catalogue, and is the first perpetual calendar chronograph in yellow gold since the ref. 5970J was discontinued in 2009. Initial thoughts The very first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph powered by an in-house movement, the ref. 5270 was introduced in 2011 but remains under appreciated, primarily because it isn’t one of the earlier perpetual calendar chronograph that are regarded as “iconic” (namely the refs. 5970, 3970, 2499 and 1518). But the ref. 5270 is excellent, or at least very good, in most tangible aspects. It’s a well-made watch with a smartly-constructed, modern movement inside robust-yet-elegant case of that sort that Patek Philippe excels at. And functionally it is also excellent, especially with the slightly larger calendar windows. Admittedly the movement finishing is not quite artisanal, but it is on par with other high-end brands that produce watches in substantial numbers, like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. It does costs more than what the competition charges for an equivalent watch, but the value of the Patek Philippe brand is tremendous. The ref. 5270J adds the option of a far more classical look to the line up. The combination of a silver dial and yellow gold case is the ...

VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 A. Lange & Söhne collection, including a more toned Odysseus Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 14, 2020

VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 A. Lange & Söhne collection, including a more toned Odysseus

From A. Lange & Söhne, we’ve learned never to predict what might be next. In this clip from our Watch Fair & Chill coverage of Watches & Wonders 2020, you’ll see exactly what we mean. When a wristwatch can cost as much as a house or a McLaren supercar, there are a certain amount of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 A. Lange & Söhne collection, including a more toned Odysseus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Tiger: So Lifelike You Expect It To Leap From The Dial Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz Jul 13, 2020

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Tiger: So Lifelike You Expect It To Leap From The Dial

When Martin Green first saw athe Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Tiger he thought that Jaquet Droz had used a photorealistic print on the dial, so real was the miniature enamel painting for him. The artist focused on the eyes of the tiger, and its gaze is so lifelike and filled with restrained power that it is almost scary. It looks like it’s about to pounce right off the dial!

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces Jul 13, 2020

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT

A star of contemporary watchmaking as a result of its consistent innovation in unusual, lightweight materials, Richard Mille watches have a unique style that is instantly recognisable. A bestseller that’s arguably the brand’s signature watch, the  RM 11 is large, technical-looking, and now in its fifth generation. The RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT is the latest to join the RM 11 line-up, which was first launched over a decade now but regularly face-lifted. Limited to 140 pieces and powered by the same RMAC3 calibre found in its predecessors, the RM 11-05 continues Richard Mille’s material-centric design with a case in grey cermet. Initial thoughts Richard Mille watches are unfailing bold, and often extravagant; the RM 11-05 sticks to that formula and is immediately identifiable. It is a modest, incremental change over earlier RM 11 variants, so it doesn’t offer substantial novelty. But for a fan of the brand and its trademark style, it is very much the traditional Richard Mille look and feel. Blending metal and ceramic The RM 11-05 is novel in its case material – surprising since the brand seems to have used every conceivable modern material – which is grey cermet case, a first for Richard Mille. A contraction of ceramic and metal, cermet is a composite of ceramic and metal alloy, resulting in a material that combines the properties of the two. Cermet is more commonly employed in  ballistic protection and aerospace components. Although the m...

HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is more grit than glamour Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Jul 11, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is more grit than glamour

This year, Daniel Craig will star as James Bond for the final time in the upcoming No Time To Die film, a blockbuster that is sure to be action packed and offer a much needed reprieve from the dystopian movie that is our current reality. On his wrist for this film will be a watch … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is more grit than glamour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The top 5 Omega James Bond watches of all time as chosen by you Time+Tide
Omega James Bond watches Jul 10, 2020

The top 5 Omega James Bond watches of all time as chosen by you

Editor’s note: Earlier this week, we asked a question on Instagram stories, what is your favourite Omega Bond watch from the last 25 years? Imma jump in here just to say, uh, wut? Where is the Spectre Seamaster 300 Limited Edition (my clear favourite Bond watch)? Where is Pierce’s watches? Any of them! It seems you … ContinuedThe post The top 5 Omega James Bond watches of all time as chosen by you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Two New Breguet La Tradition Models For 2020 (+ Live Photos): No Battle Of The Sexes Necessary Here Quill & Pad
Breguet La Tradition Models Jul 10, 2020

Two New Breguet La Tradition Models For 2020 (+ Live Photos): No Battle Of The Sexes Necessary Here

The drama of Breguet's La Tradition lay – and continues to lie – in its stylistically vintage appearance coupled with a movement finished using historical techniques and the extreme visibility of the mechanical components from the dial side. Here Elizabeth Doerr looks at two new models for 2020 that are bound to make you a fan of the style.

The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport Jul 10, 2020

The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes

Much like a car manufacturer does when it designs a brand new engine, TAG Heuer are making sure that their flagship self-winding chronograph movement, the Calibre Heuer 02, finds its way into every chrono they’ve released this year. And just days after letting us know that their three in-demand limited edition chronographs equipped with the … ContinuedThe post The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.