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The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.

Great ‘Grams: The Independent Watchmakers Edition Time+Tide
Mar 13, 2020

Great ‘Grams: The Independent Watchmakers Edition

This week on Great ’Grams, it’s all about independent watchmakers, and taking a look at the many different ways these patrons of watchmaking go about their work. One such independent watchmaker is Franck Muller, a man whose factory is known for producing sveltely curved and complicated watches but was once something of a traditionalist. The … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: The Independent Watchmakers Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Montblanc Introduces the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Tobacco Dial SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces Mar 13, 2020

Montblanc Introduces the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Tobacco Dial

Montblanc’s recent line of vintage-inspired models, including last year’s perpetual calendar, now includes the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph, an attractively retro mono-pusher chronograph that’s well-priced – considering the Minerva movement within. First launched in steel with a salmon dial, the chronograph gets a richer colour palette this year with a pink-gold case matched with a tobacco dial for a warm look no doubt inspired by aged watch dials that have faded from black to brown. Despite all the vintage detailing and “tropical” colours, the watch still doesn’t feel overly retro. The case is well suited to the vintage styling, measuring 40 mm wide thanks to the compact MB M13.21 movement. The calibre is nearly 10 mm smaller than the MB M16.29 movement built for pocket watches that Montblanc has relied on more frequently and results in much larger watches. The case is entirely polished, which contrasts against the matte dial executed in several finishes: a dark, matte surface on the periphery, followed by the grained chapter ring with applied pink gold markers, and finally the central portion in a sun ray-brushed finish. In keeping with the vintage look, the dial itself is slightly domed, a subtle detail that is evident in the sloping edges of the recessed counters. The retro style is further enhanced by a domed, “box-type” sapphire crystal. The arrowhead movement But as is always the case with Minerva-powered Montblanc watches, the highlight is ...

The watches of Drive To Survive Season 1: What you could’ve seen if the 2020 Rolex Australian Grand Prix hadn’t just been cancelled Time+Tide
Rolex Australian Grand Prix hadn’t Mar 12, 2020

The watches of Drive To Survive Season 1: What you could’ve seen if the 2020 Rolex Australian Grand Prix hadn’t just been cancelled

Another day, another sporting event falls victim to the rampant spread of COVID-19, aka Coronavirus. This time it’s one of Australia’s premier sporting events – the 2020 Rolex Australian Grand Prix. Its cancellation is a huge shock, but with one of McLaren F1’s team members being confirmed to have fallen ill with the potentially deadly … ContinuedThe post The watches of Drive To Survive Season 1: What you could’ve seen if the 2020 Rolex Australian Grand Prix hadn’t just been cancelled appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Report Card: Seiko’s 2020 novelties so far Time+Tide
Seiko s 2020 novelties so Mar 11, 2020

The Report Card: Seiko’s 2020 novelties so far

We may only be three months into 2020, but Seiko is dropping new novelties like the world could end tomorrow … which, given the current state of affairs, does feel ever so slightly plausible. Anyway, I know what you’re thinking: “enough of the doom and gloom, what about the watches?” Well, the Japanese watchmaker has … ContinuedThe post The Report Card: Seiko’s 2020 novelties so far appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Stefan Ketelaars Introduces the 3D Terra in Motion SJX Watches
Mar 11, 2020

Stefan Ketelaars Introduces the 3D Terra in Motion

Twenty-nine year-old Stefan Ketelaars started his eponymous brand in 2017, producing watches based on the ETA Unitas 6497 and 6498 but modified in a novel manner while still being affordable, starting at just €3,800, or about US$4,300. His signature complications are the “flying regulator” time display and spherical day and night display, but most notable is the balance wheel repositioned to the front of the watch. The most recent model unveiled by Ketelaars Watches, the 3D Terra in Motion with Reverse Balance. The new watch builds on his earlier creation that features a miniature Earth that functions as a day and night display, but adds on the elevated balance wheel. Like the rest of his watches, the 3D Terra in Motion is powered by a heavily modified Unitas 6497. But unlike the usual modified-Unitas fare in this price range that reshape the bridges for a new look, Mr Ketelaars retains most of the components on the back and instead reworks the front. From the back, the distinctive Unitas bridges retain the same shape, but enhanced with pronounced, sloping bevelling on all the edges. The anglage is wide enough that its top edge almost touches the countersinks for the nearby screws and jewels. A Ketelaars Unitas 6497 with a standard balance wheel on the back; the bridges are finished with radial graining and anglage The Reverse Balance The most significant modification on the new 3D Terra in Motion is the repositioning of the balance wheel. Instead of being on the...

You make me crazy – the Franck Muller Crazy Hours ladies Time+Tide
Franck Muller Mar 11, 2020

You make me crazy – the Franck Muller Crazy Hours ladies

When we see something repeatedly, over time, our brains quickly form habits that enable us to infer what we are seeing, bypassing the need to analyse every bit of information. That’s why we can make perfect sense of a paragraph made up of words that are missing their vowels, and why we can read the … ContinuedThe post You make me crazy – the Franck Muller Crazy Hours ladies appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Diving through the decade – Seiko’s latest dive watches pay tribute to three classics Time+Tide
Blancpain Rolex Omega DOXA … Mar 9, 2020

Diving through the decade – Seiko’s latest dive watches pay tribute to three classics

Blancpain, Rolex, Omega, DOXA … these are the watchmakers we normally associate with being the doyens of creating dive watches. However, as Seiko is keen to point out in their latest trilogy release, the Japanese firm has been deeply submerged in the art form of birthing amphibious timepieces for quite some time too – 55 … ContinuedThe post Diving through the decade – Seiko’s latest dive watches pay tribute to three classics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: The Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 SJX Watches
Mar 9, 2020

Hands-On: The Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2

Two years ago, German independent watchmaker Stefan Kudoke announced his first proprietary movement, the Kaliber 1, which was developed in collaboration with Habring2. A year later, the movement has made its debut in a pair of classically-styled watches – the Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2. Both models mark a stark departure from his earlier watches both in terms of design and price. Based in a small town east of Dresden, Kudoke was best known extravagantly engraved, skeletonised  timepieces, often powered by a Unitas-based movement (which meant they were all relatively large). But the latest Kudoke watches are far more understated, as well as attractively priced, starting at just over US$7,900. In fact, these watches present a compelling proposition, offering an unusual level of hand-decoration for its price bracket, save for a handful of other small independents, such as D. Dornblüth & Sohn. The Kudoke 1 Gently hand-engraved The Kudoke 1 is a well-designed watch showing the hours, minutes and seconds, while the Kudoke 2 replaces the seconds with a wonderfully engraved day and night indicator. Both watches are compact and thin enough to wear comfortably, though not quite so thin as to be true formal watches. Instead they feel like elegant everyday watches with discreet, appealing details in the hands, dial and movement. The two have the same steel case that’s 39 mm wide, but differ slightly in thickness due to the addition of the domed day and night indicator in the Kudoke ...

International Women’s Day Special: The First Wristwatches From Breguet, Hermès And Patek Philippe Were Made . . . For Women – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Were Made Mar 8, 2020

International Women’s Day Special: The First Wristwatches From Breguet, Hermès And Patek Philippe Were Made . . . For Women – Reprise

Early American historian and Harvard professor Laurel Thatcher Ulrich titled her 2008 book 'Well-Behaved Women Seldom Make History.' Ulrich would probably be very interested to know about three famous Swiss and French brands whose very first wristwatches were made for – and in a way by – women. Their watches have made history as some of the first examples of wristwatches in history, too.

Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019? Time+Tide
Seiko Mar 7, 2020

Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019?

Editor’s note: Seiko dropped what seemed like an innumerable amount of limited edition timepieces in 2019, and that got us thinking – which one was best? That’s a much tougher question than it sounds, but this SLA033 dive watch surely has to be in the running. A revival of the prolific 6105, a watch made … ContinuedThe post Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

These are some of the best women’s watches money can buy Time+Tide
Mar 7, 2020

These are some of the best women’s watches money can buy

Happy International Women’s Day to everyone out there. This past year has seen the unveiling of some of the best new ladies watches that we’ve seen in a very long time. In fact, if you’re a female watch enthusiast, there’s never been a better time to be invested in horology – the offerings from watchmakers … ContinuedThe post These are some of the best women’s watches money can buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Are mil-spec watches the perfect weekend warriors? Time+Tide
Bremont Broadsword watches Mar 6, 2020

Are mil-spec watches the perfect weekend warriors?

Editor’s note: Few other types of watches have transitioned so well from being utilitarian tools into weekend warriors as military-spec watches. Whether it be a broad arrow brandished member of the “Dirty Dozen”, a vintage Tudor Submariner used by the Marine Nationale or even a more contemporary Bremont Broadsword, watches that have been and are … ContinuedThe post Are mil-spec watches the perfect weekend warriors? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Ice and Freak X Magma SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Mar 6, 2020

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Ice and Freak X Magma

Launched a year ago, the Ulysse Nardin Freak X is the entry point to brand’s landmark Freak collection. The Freak X dispenses with the idiosyncrasies and innovation of its predecessor – though it still boasts a large, high-performance balance wheel in silicon – but makes up for it with a streamlined case and notably affordable price tag. Already iterated into numerous variants, the entry-level watch now available in two additional versions, the Freak X Ice and Freak X Magma. Diametrically opposed in aesthetics, both nonetheless share the same specs: a 43 mm case with gently tapered lugs and most notably for a Freak, a conventional crown, which makes the Freak X more practical all of its larger, crown-less predecessors. Perhaps the more sedate of the two, the Freak X Ice is the first all-white Freak, apart from the experimental Freak nExt concept watch. The Freak X Ice is dressed entirely in matte, brushed metal and matte white. The case is brushed titanium, while the bezel is titanium coated in matte white. And the dial is also matte white, with the central bridge, fixed ring gear and hour wheels in brushed, rhodium-plated brass, creating a contrast against the dial that emphasises the carousel. On the other hand, the Freak X Magma is all about striking contrast of textures. The case is a carbon-fibre composite that is made up of carbon fibres with a red polymer, creating a strong and light material that is scratch-resistant – and one that makes a real statement ...