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Swiss Made

Legally regulated country-of-origin mark. Since 2017 requires at least 60% Swiss production cost, Swiss movement, Swiss development, and Swiss assembly and inspection.

Insight: Daniels’ Co-Axial Escapement, an Evolution of the Fasoldt Chronometer SJX Watches
Omega Feb 21, 2023

Insight: Daniels’ Co-Axial Escapement, an Evolution of the Fasoldt Chronometer

In the quest for precision chronometry in a mechanical watch, perhaps no other component is as crucial as the escapement – often consisting of an escape wheel and lever that engage with the oscillating organ. The history of watchmaking recounts many an attempt at inventing a better-performing escapement, with some attempts naturally more successful than others. By the 20th century, the watch industry had settled upon the Swiss lever escapement, which has proven itself to be a reasonably solid performer and crucially, one fit for mass production. However, in the latter decades of the century, one English watchmaker attempted to challenge the industry status quo. In 1974, George Daniels invented the “co-axial escapement”, a seemingly novel and practical escapement of his own design that was conceived as an functionally superior alternative to the Swiss lever escapement. Daniels’ invention fulfilled his ambition, at least in part, when it was sold to Omega and then successfully industrialised starting in 1999; today it is found in hundreds of thousands of movements that Omega produces each year. The latest iteration of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is kitted out with the co-axial escapement With the merits of the co-axial escapement having been proven in part by its large-scale adoption, my aim here is not to examine its intrinsic qualities, but rather delve into its development. Specifically I will explore the fact that the co-axial escapement might not be an ent...

Vaer Gets Funky with the R1 USA Racing Chronograph Worn & Wound
Feb 21, 2023

Vaer Gets Funky with the R1 USA Racing Chronograph

The Venice based and independently owned watch brand, Vaer, has been a busy one since the middle of last year. They’ve expanded their catalog by launching a series of new collections and adding a couple of brand new models while still maintaining their foundational ethos of designing well-made, vintage-inspired watches that, price tag wise, are as approachable as you can get. Observing the brand from afar, it feels that they’ve carved a space for themselves into more of a mainstream market, offering up a collection of affordable watches that resemble popular vintage design and appealing to those who just need one good looking watch that’ll get them through a day at the office, as well as a weekend filled with outdoor activity. The R1 USA Chronograph, one of Vaer’s new releases, still feels like, well, a Vaer. It has all the characteristics that’ll make it another popular offering from the brand, but there’s something most certainly refreshing about the R1 Chronograph. It feels like Vaer strayed away from the classic recipe book, experimented with their own selection of ingredients, and the end product is a watch that’s more for the deep cut watch enthusiast. The R1 USA Chronograph has a lot going on and it’s difficult to pinpoint exactly what makes it distinct. The case is a perfect example. The R1 Chronograph resembles a Monnin style case, which is a favorite of mine that’s seen on the likes of a CWC Royal Navy Diver. There are also hints of the pillow-l...

Hands On: IWC Portofino Complete Calendar SJX Watches
Casio nal Roman numerals.  While Feb 20, 2023

Hands On: IWC Portofino Complete Calendar

Last year, IWC reinvigorated the underrated Portofino line that’s long been overshadowed by the bestselling Pilot’s Watch and Portugieser. Historically one of the brand’s most classical offerings, the Portofino is best summarised as clean, almost minimalist, with the occasional Roman numerals.  While recent Portofino complications have been somewhat plain, the Portofino perpetual calendar made things a little more interesting. Now IWC is continuing with the theme in a more affordable manner with the Portofino Complete Calendar. Taking its design cues from the more complex perpetual, the Complete Calendar is slightly larger but mechanically simpler. And as a result of the entry-level pricing, it is is powered by the no-frills ValFleurier movement widely used by watch brands owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont, which naturally includes IWC.  The symmetrical dial The ValFleurier movement has been dressed up for the display back Initial thoughts For the longest time, IWC has emphasised two lines, Pilot’s Watches and Portugieser, simply because they sell the best. At the same time, it has tried  to rejuvenate its other collections like the Ingenieuir and Aquatimer with little success. Last year it made tentative steps in reviving the Portofino collection with an all-new perpetual calendar. Simple in design, the Portofino perpetual doesn’t try to do too much – and for that reason it found some success as the brand’s entry-level perpetual calendar. Now IWC is ...

Frederique Constant Celebrates their 35th Anniversary and their Signature Complication with a New Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Celebrates their 35th Anniversary Feb 16, 2023

Frederique Constant Celebrates their 35th Anniversary and their Signature Complication with a New Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture

It’s hard to believe, but Frederique Constant celebrates their 35th anniversary this year. This is a brand that’s truly part of the old guard when it comes to the contemporary, affordable watch scene. Making the “nice Swiss watch” accessible to the masses was a big part of why the brand was founded, and over the course of their history the entire watch industry has changed multiple times over, currently finding itself in a healthy spot where more and better watches are finding their way onto the wrists of enthusiasts at a pace that couldn’t have have been imagined three decades ago. The line between “luxury” and “affordable” continues to shift, and there’s no doubt that Frederique Constant has played a role in those changes.  Specifically, Frederique Constant has broken new ground when it comes to making complicated watchmaking affordable. We all know about their excellent perpetual calendar, which they are still able to sell for a little less than $10,000 several years after its debut. But they also dabble in other historically significant and tech forward complications. Over the years we’ve seen everything from flyback chronographs to moon phases equipped watches, and of course their Slimline Monolithic with an ultra high frequency oscillator. But it could be argued that their signature complication, the one that the brand has leaned into the hardest and gained the most acclaim for, is the worldtimer. So it makes sense that for Frederique Constant...

Blancpain Celebrates 70 Years of the Fifty Fathoms with Tech Gombessa Worn & Wound
Blancpain Celebrates 70 Years Feb 16, 2023

Blancpain Celebrates 70 Years of the Fifty Fathoms with Tech Gombessa

This year marks the 70th anniversary of one of the most important dive watches ever made, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. To celebrate the occasion, Blancpain will be releasing a trio of Fifty Fathom “Acts”, the first of which was released in January featuring a new 42mm case. The second act of this anniversary year is celebrating Blancpain’s 10 year relationship with Gombessa diving expeditions, and the release of the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa watch, a modern take on the platform built with a specific purpose in mind. We got our hands on the Tech Gombessa during its launch (which was hosted by our friend Jason Heaton), and discovered a few surprising takeaways.  To fully appreciate the Tech Gombessa, an understanding of the Gombessa diving expeditions is in order. Led by highly decorated wildlife photographer and diver (and Nikon ambassador), Laurent Ballesta, the Gombessa expeditions have studied some of the most elusive marine life and phenomenon on earth. The goals of these expeditions are centered around three pillars: a scientific mystery, a diving challenge and the promise of unprecedented images. To date, there have been five such expeditions, all underwritten by Blancpain, and each producing a wealth of knowledge and stunning visuals. Ballesta was named Wildlife Photographer of the Year in 2017, 2021, and 2022 for his efforts. In order to study and capture the underwater locations and wildlife, the team utilizes closed-circuit rebreather diving techniques, a...

Oris Coulson Limited Edition Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Oris Coulson Limited Edition Hands-on Feb 15, 2023

Oris Coulson Limited Edition Hands-on Review

What we like: Dial is a real head turner3D Printed Carbon case is a winnerMassive five-day power reserve What we don’t like: Some may find it to be expensiveThe fingerprints easily show on the crystal Some may not appreciate the 3D-printed case Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 8/10 2022 was a big year for the independent Swiss brand Oris. Amongst the brand’s major updates to some of its collections was the continued release of its limited edition timepieces based on ecological conservation. The last major release for Oris in 2022 was the Coulson Limited edition, a watch created from the latest partnership with Coulson Aviation. Alongside creating luxury timepieces, Oris also works in a variety of different areas to bring “Change for the Better” for the planet and its people. Oris is also now independently certified as a climate-neutral company, with the watch brand working closely with other pioneering agencies to bring the change required to make the world a better place.  One of these agencies is Coulson Aviation, which Oris just recently partnered up with. Coulson Aviation is a family-run independent company based in Canada that sends out pilots, planes, and also much-needed equipment to areas of the world that are heavily affected by wildfires. The resources and help provided are split between the US and California for the Northern Hemisphere summer and for the Southern Hemisphere summer, Australia and...

Fratello and Aquastar Team Up for a Very Limited Version of the Deepstar II with an Ice Blue Dial Worn & Wound
Tudor Feb 14, 2023

Fratello and Aquastar Team Up for a Very Limited Version of the Deepstar II with an Ice Blue Dial

The Aquastar Deepstar II is the latest watch to get the limited edition treatment from our friends over at Fratello, and it might be the nicest looking iteration yet on the unapologetically vintage inspired diver. We first told you about the Deepstar II back in late 2021, when the watch made its debut in the afterglow of the cult favorite Deepstar Chronograph. These watches have an abundance of charm thanks to a well thought out asymmetry, excellent use of key vintage cues, and a size that is literally just about perfect for a watch of this style. As we pointed when the Deepstar II first came to our attention, dial color plays an outsize role in how the watch lands, and that holds true with the new Fratello version, which is very much the Deepstar we’ve come to know, but with nicely curated touches that give it a fresh life.  The word of the day when describing the Deepstar II is, without a doubt, “compact.” If you’re accustomed to big, bruising modern divers from Seiko, Tudor, and the like, strapping Deepstar II to your wrist will feel somewhat alien at first. The case measures 36.7mm wide and just 46mm lug to lug, but it’s 13mm thick, which makes these watches wear squat on the wrist with a presence you wouldn’t expect from the listed dimensions. Aquastar has always framed the Deepstar II as a thought experiment of sorts, imagining the type of diver the brand would have followed up the Deepstar Chronograph with back in the late 60s (unlike the chrono, this d...

INTRODUCING: The Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra Feb 11, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra

The Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra teams up with the popular Formula E racing team. The Mahindra Racing logo can be seen etched into the dial pattern. The red and black case is made from upcycled ocean plastic. The conversation of recycled plastic cases has been by and large overshadowed by the popularity of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Accutron Astronaut GMT Makes its Return to Horology Relevancy with Re-Edition of “T” Model Worn & Wound
Accutron Astronaut GMT Makes Feb 7, 2023

The Accutron Astronaut GMT Makes its Return to Horology Relevancy with Re-Edition of “T” Model

Back in the days, when the market for an affordable GMT was incredibly sparse, I distinctly recall the Bulova Accutron Astronaut as being one of the potential vintage options to add to the collection. At the time, I was already attracted to the aesthetic of a 24 hour steel bezel on a black dial watch, and the pairing of its faded green markers, as well as the italicized Astronaut wordmark, made it all the more appealing. Sadly, the Astronaut never made its way into the watchbox. Since then however, we’ve seen Bulova release several Accutron models in the form of the Legacy Collection, Spaceview, and DNA. But despite popular reissued designs like the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph, we have yet to see a re-edition of the Accutron Astronaut GMT … until today. The new Accutron Astronaut is based off of the original 1968 “T” model featuring a distinct 41mm saucer steel case and a short lug set that just reveal themselves under the bezel. From overhead, the bezel eclipses the entire case making you want to look sideways at the thing. Like literally, sideways. Doing so displays the slim midcase that then angles inwards towards the caseback. No battery hatch here, as the caseback sports a semicircle exhibition display akin to that of a window on a space shuttle, providing an opportunity to peer inside at the Astronaut’s Sellita SW330 GMT movement. Despite the name Accutron, where its latter syllable is derived from the word “electronic,” from the original model’s t...

Maurice Lacroix Teams Up with Mohindra Racing for a New Aikon Tide Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Teams Up Feb 6, 2023

Maurice Lacroix Teams Up with Mohindra Racing for a New Aikon Tide

It’s been almost a year since Maurice Lacroix unveiled the Aikon Tide watches. These colorful sports watches made from up-cycled ocean plastics represent a new entry point into the Maurice Lacroix collection, coming in at under $1,000 and making an overt play for the hard earned cash of a younger watch consumer. When the watches launched a year ago, many in the community rolled their eyes at another brand jumping on the green bandwagon with a “plastic” watch. But in the months since the Tide’s launch, a plastic watch of a different variety has absolutely taken over the watch world. The MoonSwatch is, admittedly, at a lower price point, but the enthusiastic response to those watches proves that nontraditional and considerably less expensive materials are capable of catching on in the right package. The Tide, then, isn’t going anywhere, and Maurice Lacroix has just unveiled a new version with their partners at Mahindra Racing in an appealing new colorway that might serve to remind some that there are other brands to consider in the plastic watch realm.  Maurice Lacroix has had a relationship with Mahindra Racing since 2020. The team is part of the founding group of the ABB FIA Formula E World Championship, which is the premier circuit for the latest crop of single seater electric race cars. The new crop of electrics are serious pieces of tech unto themselves, with lightning quick acceleration and top speeds approaching 200 miles per hour. As with F1 and other moto...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Universelle SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 3, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Universelle

Undoubtedly the flagship of its recent new launches, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle is the brand’s most complicated wristwatch in recent years – or perhaps ever. A project that began in 2016, the uber-complication rooted in history: it is a tribute to L’Universelle, the grand complication pocket watch from 1899 made by AP for German watchmaker Union. But the watch simultaneously pushes the brand’s modern-day watchmaking to the limit, particularly in terms of miniaturising highly complex mechanisms. The Universelle is available in two guises, the open dial above and the solid dial pictured further up Officially one of the brand’s Research and Development timepieces – the model is also known as the RD#4 – the Universelle is an exercise in combining into a single wristwatch all the traditional mechanisms that constitute a grand complication, and then some – perpetual calendar, rattrapante chronograph with flyback, tourbillon, and grande et petite sonnerie with minute repeater. L’Universelle on display in the Audemars Piguet Museum Initial thoughts An assuming name that means little to anyone who doesn’t understand the historical inspiration, Universelle is a horological behemoth that captures AP’s industrial and mechanical capability. Though it has a highly modern design, the Universelle harks back to a bygone era of high watchmaking that prized highly complicated watches incorporating as many features as feasible into a (barely) wearable...

VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022 Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin releases Jan 29, 2023

VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022

Some may refer to Vacheron Constantin as the third member of the Swiss holy trinity of watchmaking. But after an incredibly strong showing last year, Vacheron may be the one you really need to explore. Here are five of our favourite releases from Vacheron Constantin in 2022.     First up, is the brand’s irrefutable … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum Time+Tide
Rado True Square inspired Jan 29, 2023

Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum

Apparently, Rado can turn you into a tennis champion.  When the British player, Andy Murray partnered with the Swiss brand in 2012, he’d never won a Grand Slam. After signing with Rado, however, he proceeded to win the US Open and then became the first Brit to conquer Wimbledon since 1936, when he won the … ContinuedThe post Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Just a Minute with Windup Watch Shop’s Italian Leather Straps Worn & Wound
Jan 25, 2023

Just a Minute with Windup Watch Shop’s Italian Leather Straps

Let’s take just a minute with the entire range of Italian made, leather straps available here at the Windup Watch Shop. Hoyt, Roadster, Wyckoff, Degraw, and Sackett come in a wide variety of colors, with finishing that define them: the Hoyt with it’s matte leather and no-stitch design, the Roadster with it’s breathable, rally styling, the Wykoff with it’s pebble grain leather three quarter-stitched accents, the Degraw with it’s full-stitched nubuck upper leather, and the Sackett for that classic suede look with full-stitched accents. Let’s take just a minute with the entire range of Italian made, leather straps available here at the Windup Watch Shop. Hoyt, Roadster, Wyckoff, Degraw, and Sackett come in a wide variety of colors, with finishing that define them: the Hoyt with it’s matte leather and no-stitch design, the Roadster with it’s breathable, rally styling, the Wykoff with it’s pebble grain leather three quarter-stitched accents, the Degraw with it’s full-stitched nubuck upper leather, and the Sackett for that classic suede look with full-stitched accents. The post Just a Minute with Windup Watch Shop’s Italian Leather Straps appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII Worn & Wound
Sinn Damasko UTS Archimede Jan 25, 2023

Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII

Dievas is a cult microbrand even to those who are fans of cult microbrands. Founded in 2006, they are one of the OG independent tool watch brands. Following in the footsteps of Sinn, Damasko, UTS, Archimede, and others, Dievas’s focus is on tactical, modern, overbuilt, high-spec sports watches that are made in Germany. Still a rare origin of manufacture, Germany conjures a notion of precision, quality, and value that perhaps even surpasses Switzerland (especially in value). This is particularly different as Dievas was created by the team behind Gnomon Watches, a Singaporean retailer. At the very end of 2022, Dievas announced a new model, the Maya MKIII, after several years of being relatively dormant (models were for sale via Gnomon, but no new launches). As the name suggests, the new watch is the third iteration of the brand’s popular, tactical dive watch, the Maya. Redesigned from the ground up, the MKIII is smaller, sleeker, and more affordable, while maintaining some very impressive specs and features. Priced at $1,090 on a strap and $1,240 on a bracelet, the German-made Maya MKIII is available in black, blue, and Sealab green. The latter, featured in this review, is not only different in color but in dial and bezel insert design as well, making it an outlier in the collection. $1090 Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII Case Matte Stainless Steel w/ Clear DLC Movement Sellita SW-200 Dial Metallic Green Sandwich Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Bracelet Water Resistance ...

Zenith Defy Watch Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Jan 21, 2023

Zenith Defy Watch Guide

Swiss watch manufacture Zenith traces its roots to 1865, when it was founded in the village of Le Locle by precocious 22-year-old watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot. As one of the first watchmaking maisons to integrate all aspects of the watchmaking process under one roof, from case manufacturing to movement production to final casing and assembly, Zenith has long prided itself on its quest for timekeeping precision. The company has earned a record number of chronometry prizes over the years, and its most influential contribution to watchmaking history is its El Primero chronograph caliber, released in 1969. (Learn more about El Primero here.) In that same pivotal year, Zenith also released an avant-garde wristwatch series called Defy, whose bold, edgy design proved to be ahead of its time, and found its expression in the now-legendary Ref. A3642.  The Original Defy (1969) That watch was nicknamed the “coffre-fort,” a French term translating to “bank vault” or “safe,” a reference to its robustly angular, octagonal case, 14-sided bezel, and high-for-the-time water resistance of 300 meters, secured by its crown, caseback, and mineral crystal, all of which screwed securely into the case. Its “ladder-style” bracelet from legendary chainmaker Gay Frères also made the original reference notable. The Defy was positioned as Zenith’s toughest watch, featured in an advertisement in which six of the watches were strapped to the spokes of a motorcycle in a speed test a...

New: Cartier relaunches the Tank Française Deployant
Cartier relaunches Jan 21, 2023

New: Cartier relaunches the Tank Française

The Cartier Tank Française is a classic and timeless watch that exudes luxury and style. The design of the watch is sleek and elegant, with clean lines and a simple, yet sophisticated look. The case finishing is well-made, with attention to detail and high-quality materials used throughout. The bracelet is comfortable and the watch itself is weighty and substantial. Overall, the Cartier Tank Française is a luxurious and stylish watch.

Fears and Christopher Ward Team Up for the Alliance 01 SJX Watches
Christopher Ward Team Up Jan 20, 2023

Fears and Christopher Ward Team Up for the Alliance 01

English independent watchmakers Fears and Christopher Ward have teamed up to create a new take on the jump hour complication with the Alliance 01. A collaborative effort that plays to the strengths of each brand, the Alliance 01 was made expressly for the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, a trade body for horologists in the United Kingdom. It combines the minimalist, vintage-inspired aesthetic espoused by Fears with the affordable complications of Christopher Ward. Initial thoughts I was intrigued when I learned Christopher Ward was teaming up with Fears. At first glance, the Alliance 01 looks like another version of the Brunswick, one of Fears’ signature models since the brand’s revival six years ago. But it is best described as Fears watch containing a Christopher Ward movement. It smartly combines each brand’s strengths – Fears’ vintage-inspired styling and Christopher Ward’s accessibly-priced, simple complications. Despite the resemblance to Fears’ other models, the Alliance 01 is appreciably different from anything Fears has done to date. But it still has the retro elegance typical of Fears, which actually makes the watch look simpler, despite the added complication. Though the design is elegant, the Alliance 01 is chunky, especially for a watch of this style. With dimensions comparable to a Rolex Daytona, the case height of just under 13 mm mean it will sit thickly on the wrist. If there were a bone to pick with the watch, it would be the lack...

New Partner, Same Dance: Rowing Blazers Joins Zodiac to Celebrate Iconic Paris Watering Hole Worn & Wound
Zodiac Jan 19, 2023

New Partner, Same Dance: Rowing Blazers Joins Zodiac to Celebrate Iconic Paris Watering Hole

With just two collaborative pieces in the past two years, Rowing Blazers has made some serious noise in the watch space. Their taste for playful colors and bold patterns combined with their use of various fabric textures across different styles not limited to streetwear, “prep,” and athletic-inspired apparel are displayed front and center in both of their Seiko collaborations. With author, designer, and Rowing Blazers founder Jack Carlson at the helm, and the horological experience of Eric Wind, it was only going to be a matter of time until the brand expanded their sights onto new horizons, and new watch brands to collaborate with. The new Rowing Blazers x Zodiac Harry’s Bar Super Sea Wolf is the latest to come from the American apparel brand and features an ongoing collaboration with their favorite watering-hole. One look at the Rowing Blazers catalog will tell you that the brand is not shy going heavy on the bright colors. And you know who else isn’t shy about using color? Zodiac. Naturally this collaborative piece uses a vibrant sunburst green dial reminiscent of a mix of green liqueurs. An appropriate color choice considering this collaboration includes Harry’s Bar, the oldest cocktail bar in Europe. This establishment has served libations to the likes of Ernest Hemingway, Daft Punk, and even makes a cameo in Ian Fleming’s James Bond novel “From a View to Kill.” With so much history that has taken place behind those doors, one would wonder what it woul...

INTRODUCING: The Depancel Tangerine belongs to a tribe called zest Time+Tide
Jan 19, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Depancel Tangerine belongs to a tribe called zest

Last year was a big year for Depancel, and 2023 is already getting off to a great start. The first Depancel Serie-A Allure was launched after crowdsourcing the design choices, resulting in a watch that guaranteed an adoring audience instantly. Some 500 pieces were made and sold, increasing the brand’s upwards trajectory and inspiring further … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Depancel Tangerine belongs to a tribe called zest appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jan 16, 2023

Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater

Founded by a duo who trained as jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in transforming old pocket watch movements and installing them in custom-made wristwatches. Based in Slovakia, Molnar Fabry recently completed its third minute-repeating wristwatch, the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater. The Royal Symphony is powered by a movement from a 1910 pocket watch made by Haas Neveux & Cie., a Geneva-based watch brand known for its high-quality movements that active from the mid-19th century to the 1920s. In typical Molnar Fabry style, the movement was entirely reworked, not only to restore its mechanical function, but also entirely decorated to a high level that includes engraving on the bridges. Initial thoughts Each watch made by Molnar Fabry is unique and mostly made according to the client’s specifications since most are made to order. As a result, the brand’s house style covers a diverse aesthetic – it is certainly not for everyone – but the quality of work is always impressive. Being jewellers, the brand’s founders apply the same artisanal, manual techniques used in producing jewellery to their watches. Even in photos the artisanal nature of the work is apparent, ranging from the movement decoration to the hand engraving on the case back. However, Molnar Fabry’s work on the movement is primarily decorative rather than mechanical. As a result, the Haas Neveux calibre still has a balance staff without shock protection. That’s like a non-issue in a watch like the Roy...

TRADING FACES: Why I swapped my Rolex Submariner for a Rolex Explorer 1016 Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner Jan 15, 2023

TRADING FACES: Why I swapped my Rolex Submariner for a Rolex Explorer 1016

I have penned nearly a thousand articles for this site over the last two years, but two of the most read were under the Trading Faces tag – where I dissect an actual watch trade I have made in my collection. I love that you guys love it, because I love writing them. But now I … ContinuedThe post TRADING FACES: Why I swapped my Rolex Submariner for a Rolex Explorer 1016 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jan 12, 2023

Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original

One of the “it” watches of the 1980s, Hublot’s porthole-inspired watch on a rubber strap has been revived. Forty-two years since the brand made its debut with the iconoclastic hublot watch – it was the first watch to combine a gold case and rubber strap – the brand is paying tribute to its founder Carlo Crocco with a new range modelled on the original design. Taking after the original in look and feel, the Classic Fusion Original collection comprises three sizes, each available in three material configurations. Initial thoughts Almost minimalist in its design, the Classic Fusion Original is simpler and sleeker than the typical Hublot. It is relatively compact and thin in all three sizes – the largest model is 10 mm high – giving it a surprisingly elegant profile on the wrist. The no-frills design is strongly appealing, except for the date window, which isn’t too prominent but still unnecessary. And I would have gone even further in the minimalist direction by doing away with the seconds hand. That said, both the date and seconds are part of the original 1980 design. Despite the clean styling, the watch is instantly recognisable as a Hublot. In fact, the Classic Fusion Original is arguably more distinctively Hublot than the some of the brand’s other models, which occasionally resemble offerings from Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Starting at around US$8,000 in titanium with an automatic movement (the smallest, 33 mm versions are all quartz), the Cl...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 10, 2023

Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325

When Grand Seiko (GS) made its return in 1998, the inaugural SBGR001 model was powered by the 9S55, the first modern-day GS calibre. Now the brand is marking the 25th anniversary of the 9S movement family with a pair of limited editions. The Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Hi-Beat 36000 SBGH311 and the Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGR325. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 has a patterned dial, while the more affordable SBGR325 has a dial with a brushed finish. Both are modelled on the original model of 1998 and sport the same 37 mm case. SBGH311 (left) and SBGR325 Initial thoughts With their 37 mm cases and clean styling, the new 9S pair hark back to the GS watches made from the late 1990s to mid 2000s. That is unsurprising since they are meant to commemorate the first model with the 9S movement, which made its debut in 1998. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 does have a fancier pattern dial, but one that is relatively subtle in its shades-of-grey texture. As a result, they will appeal to anyone who wants a smaller, simpler GS watch. Another upside of the relatively simpler execution are the prices, which place the pair amongst the most affordable self-winding GS watches. The SBGH311 is US$6,600 and the SBGR325 about 20% less. SBGR325 Old-school size The SBGH311 has a textured dial in silvery grey inspired by clouds that’s matched with a blued-steel seconds hand. And the “GS” emblem is gilded in a nod to the fact that this is an anniversary edition. Not...

Junghans Max Bill Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Junghans Jan 8, 2023

Junghans Max Bill Guide

Watches with a sparse, minimalist aesthetic have a faithful following in the modern era, and a number of watchmakers, both Swiss and German, offer timepieces born of those design principles, which are most directly descended from Germany’s hugely influential Bauhaus school of design in the early 20th Century. The Junghans Max Bill series, however, is one of the undisputed trailblazers of the Bauhaus style of watch design, tracing its origins all the way back to 1861 and boasting a time-tested design from one of the movement’s leading legends, Max Bill himself. Here we offer a brief history of the Junghans Max Bill watch collection, some insight into its namesake, and an overview of the modern collection, one of the few to contain mechanical, automatic, quartz, and radio-controlled solar movements as well as an array of sizes and materials. HOROLOGY IN THE BLACK FOREST Junghans Uhren GmbH was founded in 1861 in Schramberg, in Germany’s eastern Black Forest, by Erhard Junghans and his brother-in-law Jakob Zeller-Tobler. Initially a producer of clock parts, the company began making its own complete clocks and pocket watches in 1866 and by 1903 had become the largest watch and clock manufacturer in the world, employing 3,000 people. In 1927, Junghans began making wristwatches as well as clocks and supplied both over the subsequent decades to clients in the German military as well as the commercial market. A watershed moment for the company arrived in the 1950s with the...

The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire sits at the bleeding edge of technology and opulence Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Sapphire sits Jan 4, 2023

The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire sits at the bleeding edge of technology and opulence

Swiss luxury powerhouse Hublot has long been known for their outsize watches for outsize personalities. The man responsible for the brand’s rise to fame, Jean-Claude Biver, always had a knack for making a big splash, none bigger than Hublot’s Big Bang line. Since its introduction in 2005, the Big Bang has been produced in a … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire sits at the bleeding edge of technology and opulence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.