Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Memory Time, A Cartier Trianon, And Two Picks From Goodwill
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Results for Fleurier
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Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C XPS And L.U.C Qualité Fleurier
A comparison of two solid new additions to Chopard's dressy high horology lineup.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: A Quick Look At Parmigiani Fleurier's New Toric Chronograph Rattrapante
The Toric line is nothing without a complication in the mix and Parmigiani brought one of their best, right out of the gate.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Parmigiani Fleurier's Toric Petite Seconde Breathes New Life Into Its Original Collection
It's not a revival of the old Toric, but it's certainly the best we've seen in years.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier In Lucent Steel
Chopard's super-certified collection, in steel for the first time.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: Early Parmigiani Fleurier And The Enduring Appeal Of ‘Overbuilt’ Watches
How one man revived a Swiss village through a focus on old-school craft and how we collect these over-the-top pieces today.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Made the World's Most Complete Chinese Calendar
The new Tonda PF Xiali Calendar shows how well masterfully complex watchmaking and elegantly wearable design can go hand in hand.
Hodinkee
Culture Of Time: King Charles' Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Is A Real Collector's Choice
Two chronographs – one bought, one military-issued – make a collection fit for a king.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: A Rose Is A Rose Is A Parmigiani Fleurier Rose Carrée Pocket Watch
The pocket watch as talisman.
Hodinkee
Culture Of Time: The Father-Daughter Duo Keeping Horology Haute At Parmigiani Fleurier
In anticipation of Father's Day, we sat down with Michel and Anne-Laure Parmigiani to discuss what it's like working together.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Hasn't Forgotten The Little Guys
In fact, it celebrates them. In this case, with a limited, double-signed Tonda GT and Tondagraph GT to Celebrate Oliver Smith Jeweler’s 40th Anniversary.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist Qualité Fleurier
The latest Twist continues Chopard's tradition of offering unconventional excellence in its L.U.C. line.
Quill & Pad
Bovet Fleurier Miss Audrey Sweet Art: Real Sugar Crystals On The Dial Glisten Like Tiny Colorful Pearls (No Licking!)
While its convertible Amadeo case allows the Bovet Miss Audrey watch to be easily converted to a pendant or desk clock, the focus of Sweet Art is its incredible sugar crystal dial. Joshua Munchow was skeptical when he first heard about the sugar being used but the results speak for themselves, and it is hard to argue that the dials aren’t indeed gorgeously crafted. You must see this for yourself.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraphe GT Annual Calendar Chronograph (Live Pics & Pricing)
Complicated, classy, and offering surprising bang for the buck.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Tondagraphe Rose Gold Slate
A high complication from the best-kept secret in Swiss watchmaking.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Corrector In Rose Gold
A look inside a suite of classic high complications.
Time+Tide
The new Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer in Areuse blue is a mighty mid-size casual dress watch
Chopard celebrates the 30th anniversary of its Manufacture Fleurier facility with this understated yet impressive dress watch.
Monochrome
First Look – The Chopard L.U.C. Strike One in Titanium with Salmon Dial
Thirty years ago, Chopard’s co-president, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, opened the Manufacture in Fleurier. The first in-house calibre, L.U.C 1.96, a slim automatic micro-rotor movement, made its debut inside the L.U.C XPS 1860 the following year. Rapidly ascending the complications ladder, in 2006, Chopard celebrated the tenth anniversary of its Manufacture with the release of the L.U.C […]
Monochrome
First Look – The Chopard L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue in Lucent Steel
Chopard celebrates 30 years since the founding of its Manufacture in Fleurier, and the L.U.C collection, named after Louis-Ulysse Chopard, continues to highlight the brand’s most technical and refined timepieces. Among the anniversary releases, the new L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue presents an evolution of the sector-dial model in green introduced in 2024. This new edition […]
SJX Watches
Blue Steel: Chopard L.U.C 1860
To mark 30 years of its Fleurier manufacture, Chopard has introduced a new variant of the watch that started it all. The new Lucent steel L.U.C 1860 adds a blue dial to the brand’s flagship time-only dress watch. The L.U.C 1860 is short on novelty, being merely a new colour for a model that debuted in 2023, but the incremental improvements result in a sleek and sophisticated steel dress watch. Initial thoughts The L.U.C 1860 is very traditional dress watch in the sense that nothing feels exaggerated. At the same time, it doesn’t feel boring thanks to its guilloché dial and the obvious quality of the movement within. While there are some who believe that a proper dress watch must come in precious metal, the popularity of the steel-and-salmon L.U.C 1860 released in 2023 proves there’s an alternate perspective. The brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel makes the watch more accessible, especially in the age of near-record gold prices. Despite the use of a comparatively humble material, the case finishing remains high-end - though the design is generation behind the new case profile introduced for the Grand Strike. Since the original L.U.C 1860 debuted in 1997, it has always been a small watch. For a time, that left it out of step with consumer preferences, especially in the early 2000s, but tastes have once again shifted back in favour of smaller cases. In this context, the vintage-leaning 36.5 mm size feels just right. That said, while it makes sense for Chopar...
Monochrome
First Look – The Superb Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer, now in Blue
Chopard marks the 30th anniversary of its first in-house movement produced in the brand’s Fleurier Manufacture. A pivotal moment for Chopard, the calibre 1.96 was released in 1996 and is still regarded as one of the finest ultra-thin micro-rotor movements today. The first watch to feature the calibre was the L.U.C 1860, presented in a […]
Deployant
Review: The New Parmigiani Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Arctic Rose
Reviewing the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Arctic Rose. An indepth look into the maison's latest watch that whispers "discreet luxury".
SJX Watches
The Owl is an Ambitious Debut from L’Atelier Bernard
Independent watchmaking continues to draw enthusiasm from collectors, particularly as a new generation of creators begins to establish its voice. New brands are springing up to cater to that demand, and one of the most interesting recent debuts is The Owl by L’Atelier Bernard, a sold-out six-piece limited edition that blends unconventional aesthetics with equally unconventional mechanics. Handcrafted in Fleurier by the young duo Bernard Van Ormelingen and Bernard Braboretz, the watch showcases now familiar elements of artisanal finishing and inverted-movement architecture, along with something rarely seen, a duplex escapement, which makes The Owl a more distinctive entry in the crowded field of emerging independents. Initial thoughts The Owl is handcrafted by a pair of young and talented watchmakers, the Bernards who gave their name to the brand. Clearly a show of their shared aesthetic sensibilities and technical chops, the Owl is meant to kickstart the independent creators’ artisanal venture in Fleurier. One of the Bernards is not new to independent watchmaking; those who closely follow independent watchmaking might remember Mr Van Ormelingen’s name from Van Bricht, a now-defunct brand for which he produced guilloche dials. The Owl is unexpected and intriguing on several fronts. Its aesthetics, mechanics, decoration, and layout seem almost at odds with one another, yet the result is a distinctly artisanal object. There is no conventional dial; instead, the watch pr...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Hermès H08 Chronograph, Now in Naples Yellow
Since formalising its modern manufacture capabilities (including a long-standing stake in Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier), La Montre Hermès has developed a distinct vocabulary with typography that’s unmistakably Hermès. The H08 collection, launched in 2021, translated the approach into a daily-wear sports watch that felt designed rather than engineered. Its cushion case, graphic numerals, and mix of […]
SJX Watches
Bovet Scales Down the Daylight-Savings World Time
Following the launch of the uber, multi-function world time last year, Bovet Fleurier continues its exploration of time zones with the Récital 30, a simpler, everyday-wear evolution on its complex predecessor. Initial thoughts The Récital 30 is more accessible both in terms of function and price, and more restrained in terms of design; overall it’s a more wearable version of the full-fledged original. The new world time caters to a different customer from last year’s Récital 28, the client who doesn’t necessarily care for lavish decorations or extreme complexity, but seeks a forward-thinking, wearable world time with some unique functionality. While the accessibility of this should be applauded – it costs almost one-tenth the Recital 28 – this does leave the impression of a watered-down creation. There is almost no lavish movement decoration visible, instead the dial fully covers the face. And the calibre only incorporates one complication, admittedly one executed in a complex manner. World time indication At its core, the Récital 30 is built on the same principles that underpin its pricier bigger brother, namely the clever roller world time system. This ingenious mechanical solution allows seamless adjustments across 25 distinct time zones, including GMT+5:30 for New Delhi, India, which is offset by an inconvenient 30 minutes. The beauty of the system is its calibration for four distinct annual periods: Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), American Summer Time...
SJX Watches
Business News: Voutilainen Expands Brodbeck Guillochage
Having stepped in to acquire Brodbeck Guillochage in 2022, Voutilainen has announced the opening of a new, larger facility in Fleurier that is poised to become a new centre of excellence for guilloché. Retaining the name Brodbeck Guillochage in honour of its founder Georges Brodbeck, the new facility is located in what was once the local watchmaking school of Fleurier, the town adjacent to Voutilainen’s hilltop headquarters at Chapeau de Napoléon. The new home of Brodbeck Guillochage in Fleurier Initial thoughts This is welcome news for a number of reasons. First, it will help perpetuate the legacy of Mr. Brodbeck, ensuring that his life’s work will continue to have a positive impact watchmakers and lovers of fine objects for years to come. Second, the steady hand of Kari Voutilainen, whose accomplishments as an entrepreneur rival his skills as a watchmaker, should help the new enterprise navigate potential industry downturns in the future. Finally, the impressive scale of the operation should be a magnet for talent, improving the economic prospects for young artisans interested in guilloché. A new centre of excellence A self-taught guillocheur, Mr Brodbeck founded his eponymous firm in 2004, gradually building up a stock of more than 30 antique engine turning machines, each restored to working order by Mr Brodbeck himself. In 2023, Mr Brodbeck was awarded the Prix Gaïa, arguably the highest award in the Swiss watch industry, for his contributions to the preservati...
Monochrome
First Look – The Discreet Luxury of the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s dream of mechanical independence materialised in 1996 with the presentation of Chopard‘s first in-house movement known as calibre 1.96. Produced in Chopard’s Fleurier manufacture, the calibre was fitted inside the first L.U.C 1860 watch, writing a new chapter in the brand’s high-end watchmaking journey. Recognised as one of the finest ultra-thin micro-rotor automatic […]
SJX Watches
T3 Special Watches Introduces Dague Time Dragon and Dague Guilloché
T3 Special Watches made its debut in 2021 with the Dague, a watch designed to embody the aesthetic preferences of its Italian founders, vintage watch dealer Andrea Marzari and watch aficionado Alessandro Poggi. Inspired by the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 and livened up with colourful, “Stella” style dials, the Dague has now been given an artisanal touch with the Dague Time Dragon and the Dague Guilloché. The newest iterations illustrate the brand’s ambitious attempts at fine enamelling and guilloché – the brand recruited noted enameller Vanessa Lecci for the cloisonné dial – techniques typically seen on pieces from more established brands. Initial thoughts In the realm of micro-brands, it is uncommon to find traditional and artisanal guilloché and enamelling due to their high cost. Therefore, it was surprising to see T3 partnering with enameller Vanessa Lecci, renowned for her exceptional work for establishment brands like Cartier, Parmigiani Fleurier, Vacheron Constantin, and Voutilainen. The initial Dague series had a pleasant design that was not truly captivating for anyone not inclined towards a retro, Italian style. However, the new series showcases a significantly more compelling aesthetic. The enamelled dial of the Time Dragon, juxtaposed with the sector-styled outer disc, creates a visually striking contrast highly reminiscent of vintage watches with cloisonné dials made by Patek Philippe and Rolex. It would be exciting to witness the brand’...
Time+Tide
The OWO & House of Bovet Special Edition 19Thirty is a truly exclusive watch
It’s not often I get to write about watches that can’t be bought, but occasionally there’s something special enough to warrant exploration. I have already delved deep into the history of Bovet, from their familial ancestry in Fleurier to their absolute dominance in 19th century Canton. Despite some struggles in the past, The House of … ContinuedThe post The OWO & House of Bovet Special Edition 19Thirty is a truly exclusive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: I Hereby Resolve To Celebrate This 36mm Parmigiani
It's called the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Rose Gold Ruby. And it taught me a thing or two about New Year's resolutions.