3,803 articles · 47 videos found · page 90 of 129
Quill & Pad
Why is this timepiece important from a holistic view of horological history? The reasons are manifold and include the unheard-of technology nestled within its movement, the audacity of a German newcomer in challenging Swiss status quo, and the symbolic value for A. Lange & Söhne's rebirth as well as the golden age of mechanical timepieces.
Time+Tide
Doxa are a legend among revived Swiss watch brands, with a rich back catalogue of products to pull from that maintain an intense cult following. Their quirky designs are full of vintage flair and mystique, yet they’ve also proven themselves to be trailblazers in modern trends such as carbon fibre construction and refurbished movements. While … ContinuedThe post The top 5 Doxa limited editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Despite having made more than 100 pièces uniques among a grand total of approximately 1,500 timepieces spanning 42 years of a truly inventive career, independent watchmaker and co-founder of the A.H.C.I. Svend Andersen has become particularly known for the worldtimer, a complicated timepiece displaying the time in 24 time zones. Here Elizabeth Doerr shares a brief history of worldtimers and blue gold while looking at the Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures du Monde.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Seiko 5 watch series traces its roots all the way back to 1963, when the Japanese mega-brand introduced the original Seiko Sportsmatic 5, a groundbreaking timepiece that ushered in the emblematic “five attributes” that define the vast collection today. These include automatic movements, day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case and bracelet made of durable materials. Stylistically, the watches run the gamut from dress pieces to field watches to divers, with all kinds of variations in between (the current shorthand descriptions are Sense, Specialist, Sports, Suits, and Street). Seiko 5 watches still adhere to those five principles initially laid out more than half a century ago while still retaining the famously inexpensive price points that have made them so desirable - from under $100 to the neighborhood of $500 for the more exclusive editions. Seiko 5 watches - rebranded in the collection’s relaunch in 2019 as Seiko 5 Sports, despite offering this diversity of styles - have a worldwide fan following, with many JDM (Japan Direct Market) models highly sought after by American collectors due to their scarcity. And for many a budding watch collector of modest means, a Seiko 5 watch is the gateway drug to a full-blown timepiece obsession. Here we spotlight some of our favorites. SRPC65 “Bottlecap” Reference: SRPC65, Price: $150-$250, Case Size: 45mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Lug-to-L...
SJX Watches
Debuted just two years ago, the Streamliner was Moser’s first try at an integrated-bracelet sports watch and it was a success. With its distinctive case and bracelet, the Streamliner is very much a watch that caters to the tastes of today, which has unsurprisingly made it the brand’s bestseller. The latest in the line up, however, is a change in tone. With a dial that’s minimalist as usual, the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack is unabashedly extravagant in 18k red gold from end to end, putting it in stark contrast with the uniformly steel Streamliners that came before. Initial thoughts The best part of the latest Streamliner is its design, which manages to blend several elements in a coherent manner: luxury, mechanical complexity, and of course simplicity. With this new launch, the Streamliner is finally available in gold. While all past models were in steel, the Streamliner Tourbillon is surprisingly attractive despite being so different. In fact, the case and bracelet are arguably made even more compelling in precious metal, since the material lends the watch both heft and elegance, while the glow of the rosy metal brings out the surface finish. In contrast to the extravagant case and bracelet, the dial is spare and contrasts well against the gold case. Coated in Vantablack, an ultra-black substance, the dial is sparsely furnished with plain hour markers and no minute track, making it the simplest amongst the Streamliner collection. That said, the rounded hands a...
SJX Watches
Utterly bizarre and thoroughly ingenious when it debuted in March 2001, the Freak remains avant-garde even two decades later. But unlike the highly modern creations from brands like De Bethune and Urwerk, the Freak arguably gets less credit than it deserves, simply because Ulysse Nardin isn’t a niche, independent watchmaker. But that takes nothing away from the concept, which has been made more avant-garde than ever. Launched earlier this year, the Freak S is now the flagship model in the Freak line-up. In a first for a Freak, it reimagines the trademark carousel display, which now carries twin inclined balance wheels linked by a differential. Initial thoughts The landmark creation of the modern-day Ulysse Nardin (UN) brand, Freak was and still is interesting because it turns conventional movement construction on its head. Most of the moving parts are mounted onto a carousel on the dial that doubles up as the minute hand, while under the dial sits a massive mainspring that occupies most of the case volume. No other watch combines unorthodox form and function like the Freak even though it was launched in 2001, well before most of today’s best known avant-garde timepieces. That was four years before Urwerk unveiled its satellite-cube hour display, for instance, ensuring the Freak’s place as a pioneering creation. The Freak S (left) and the original Freak from 2001 While the essence of the Freak has been mostly retained over the various iterations since its launch, ...
Hodinkee
The godfather of cinema made the prince of independent watchmaking an offer he couldn't refuse.
Quill & Pad
Graham's releases a trio of Single Harvest Tawny Ports called the Cellar Master’s Trilogy comprising The Apprentice, The Artisan, and The Master. Ken Gargett gives us the lowdown on how it's made and how it tastes.
Quill & Pad
When you talk with watch enthusiasts, the conversation often branches out to other areas of passion; one of these is inevitably sound systems. Martin Green doesn't have firm statistics, but there are a considerable number of audiophiles among watch collectors. And like him, they will be probably be smitten with the Sonomaster Chronograph made by Reservoir.
Time+Tide
When the Grand Seiko SLGT003 “Kodo” made its debut at Watches & Wonders it was a definitive "drop the mic" moment.The post HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko dropped the mic with the SLGT003 “Kodo” Constant Force Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
'Wrist Check Pod' co-host Perri Dash comes through with three vintage watches, one trippy poster, and the modern Rolex that made him a believer.
Time+Tide
The Swiss industry can feel a bit stuffy at times, a seriousness derived from a sense of luxury, heritage and timekeeping tradition. But we are increasingly seeing independents and micro-brands inject more playfulness into horology – from H. Moser & Cie, MB&F;, Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein, SecondeSeconde, Bamford and more. Another name you would … ContinuedThe post Studio Underd0g unveils Strawberries & Cream Chronograph inspired by Wimbledon snack appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Best known for supplying customised watches to air force squadrons, Breitling has less frequently made watches for civilian aviators, but the brand’s latest is a pair of watches created in partnership with one of the world’s best carriers. Each limited to 100 pieces, the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 Singapore Airlines and Navitimer Automatic 38 Singapore Airlines are both dressed in the blue and gold livery of city state’s flag carrier. Initial thoughts For some two decades, Singapore Airlines (SIA) has consistently been ranked amongst the world’s best carriers by airline consultancy Skytrax, so the the tie-up is certainly a good one for Breitling. Fortunately SIA’s corporate colours are a pleasing blue and gold that work well on the Navitimer. The gold accents on the dial give it a slightly more retro feel than the standard models in steel, which uniformly have rhodium-plated markers and hands. For anyone who already likes either Navitimer model but wants something a bit more striking, the SIA editions certainly have their appeal. While the gold accents are appealing, they are the only element that distinguishes the dial of the SIA editions. The chronograph, for instance, is almost identical to the standard Navitimer 41 mm with a dark blue dial, with the only difference being the gold-plated hands and indices. This similarity to the respective standard models is probably the only shortcoming of either edition. Each edition is priced almost 10% more expensiv...
Time+Tide
It’s quite common for microbrand watches to become a competing list of specifications trying to undercut each other on price, with buzzwords thrown around that promise great water resistance, sapphire crystals and Swiss movements. It’s hard to blame them either, because watch enthusiasts can be easily swayed by these claims of unbeatable value for money, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Retter 22 channels the style of Vacheron’s iconic 222 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
It's called the Central Impulse Chronometer. It's made by Bernhard Lederer. And for movement nerds (like me!), it's a revelation. Here's how it works.
Time+Tide
With the advent of Kickstarter it seems that anyone can start a watch brand these days, but there will always be a certain level of cachet required to be truly respected as a Swiss luxury brand, no matter the price point. So, with over 100 years of honest family-owned operation and consistent high-end products, why … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Titoni Seascoper 600 is a dive watch from a brand you should know more about appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Self-made San Francisco entrepreneur Sonya Yu will not be underestimated.
Hodinkee
The Swiss watchmaker has partnered with New York's "Billion Oyster Project" to release a new dive watch and raise awareness for a unique cause in the Hudson River.
SJX Watches
Though born in Japan, Yosuke Sekiguchi is steeped in the tradition of Swiss watchmaking. He moved first to France and then Switzerland some two decades ago, and is today fluent in French and skilled at watchmaking. After a career at complications specialists like Claret and La Joux-Perret, Mr Sekiguchi established his own brand in 2020 with the goal of building a historically-inspired timepiece of extremely high quality. The concept is a familiar one that has been interpreted in various ways by others, but Mr Sekiguchi arguably succeeds far better in both paying tribute to the historical inspiration and achieving impressive, artisanal quality. His first watch is the Primevère, which made its debut just earlier this year. It is an elegantly designed and clearly rooted in 19th century pocket watches, but also novel in several ways, reflecting Mr Sekiguchi’s unusual approach to the concept. Amongst other things, it is robustly constructed and larger than such wristwatches typically are. And while the movement resembles its vintage inspiration, it is fabricated and decorated in a finer, more artisanal manner than the 19th century original. NB: The Primevère pictured here is the first complete prototype with a gold-plated case, so it still reveals several obvious imperfections in the movement decoration. Mr Sekiguchi promises the the final product will be perfectly finished and I believe that it will be. Initial thoughts Although it appears to be a pocket watch reproducti...
SJX Watches
Having made it a point to collaborate with contemporary artists – last year the brand recruited tattooist Dr Woo to design a watch – Roger Dubuis has now turned to Hajime Sorayama. Best known for his mirrored, metallic female robots – which were the centrepiece of Dior’s 2019 men’s collection – the Japanese illustrator applied his aesthetic to Roger Dubuis’s signature time-only wristwatch to create the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier. The Excalibur is perhaps the quintessential face for the Roger Dubuis of today. Skeletonised and sharply sculpted, the watch – as well as its movement – have been reworked by Mr Sorayama in the manner of his trademark robot drawings. Both the watch case and movement gain the rounded, mirror-polished finish that define Mr Sorayama’s work, which extends to depictions of Mickey Mouse and dinosaurs. A typical Sorayama work: Untitled, 2018. Image – Art Basel Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current offerings are ultra-modern timepieces that are done well in both construction and finish, but they are often overshadowed by their traditional predecessors. That’s a shame because watches such as the Monobalancier are amongst the better examples of a sporty, skeletonised watch. Already original and creative in both the movement and case, the Monobalancier is now made more appealing with the Sorayama touch. The artist has given the watch a makeover that’s subtle yet significant, reshaping some elements and giving most of t...
Deployant
The 1970s were a period of upheaval and turmoil for the mechanical watchmaking industry. This was the time of the “quartz crisis” during which the advent of quartz watches, with its superior accuracy at a much lower cost, had posed an existential threat to the Swiss watch industry. The quartz crisis led to a majorRead More
Quill & Pad
Most people know anOrdain because of its stunning handmade enamel dials. Elizabeth Doerr's own hands-on experience occurred because her interest was piqued by the nature of these tiny made-in-Glasgow works of art. Here she shares a personal visit to the anOrdain studio in Glasgow.
SJX Watches
The result of a collaboration between a Danish clockmaker and design studio , the Moonwork is a tall, sculptural clock that stands almost two meters high. It’s an old-school pendulum clock in function but entirely contemporary in expression, from the thin, minimalist frame to the clever time display without hands. Danish clockmaker Rune Bakkendorff worked together with fellow Danes of design studio Ahm&Lund; to create the clock, which made its debut late last year at the Cabinetmakers Autumn Exhibit 2021, a Scandinavian furniture fair that took place in Copenhagen. The Moonwork at the furniture exhibition. Photo – Scandinaviandesign.com Initial thoughts A thoughtfully designed object, the Moonwork is attractive on several levels. At first glance, it is slender, simplistic, and hardly resembling a clock save for the pendulum. But paradoxically it is a clock, making the featureless time display is immediately intriguing. It is a clock, but not quite. The Moonwork does away with the conventional telling of the time and instead displays the lunar cycle – the moon phase is projected onto the white porcelain dome that forms the dial. An impractical but beautiful solution, this makes the Moonwork more of a sculpture that indicates the passing of the time. Remove the white porcelain dome and the entirely mechanical workings of the clock are revealed, although moon phase projection relies hundreds of LED bulbs that are hidden behind a silver sphere that rotates slowly to ca...
Hodinkee
Could a watch be tailor-made for Instagram? Could this be it?
Quill & Pad
The new Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance First Edition is what some might call a reboot of the collection. But Joshua Munchow looks at it more as a rebirth. The new release has a high percent of shared “DNA” with the original Mirrored Force Resonance, but it is obviously made for a new era.
Hodinkee
The high-end Swiss watchmaker has absolutely nothing to hide – and this new case design proves it.
Deployant
Ulysse Nardin relaunches 175 new pieces in black Carbonium with a flashy yellow rubber strap or a black R-STRAP made of upcycled fishing nets.
Hodinkee
A glowing, sophisticated, and well-made dive watch, but is it worth the price tag?
Time+Tide
You’d think that Doxa has covered most of the spectrum with their colour options - everything from bold oranges and yellows to toned-down silvers and blacks. For Watches and Wonders 2022, however, the Swiss manufacturer introduces a brand new colour to their lineup - the Doxa Whitepearl collection. Presenting as highly contrasting references with optional colour-matched … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Doxa does everything white and it works appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
First, I made a rudimentary clock. Then I made a rudimentary watch. Then I flew into a fit of rage.
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