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El Primero Zenith

Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).

Wiki · Guide
Panda / Reverse Panda Dial

Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.

Wiki · Guide
Telemeter Scale

Chronograph scale converting flash-to-sound time into distance. WWI artillery-spotting origin; vintage Longines / Lemania / Heuer.

Wiki · Guide
Pulsometer Scale

Chronograph scale reading heart rate in BPM after counting 15 or 30 pulse beats. The 1920s-60s doctor\'s watch standard.

Introducing - The Bold, High-Tech Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept Monochrome
Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept Jan 30, 2026

Introducing - The Bold, High-Tech Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept

Since Chopard‘s and Zagato‘s first collaboration in 2013 with the Mille Miglia Zagato Chronograph, followed by the 2019 Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Zagato 100th Anniversary Edition, the two family-run brands have used watchmaking to express automotive culture. With the Zagato Lab One Concept, Chopard takes that collaboration further, delivering a true concept watch focused on structure, […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Recent Audemars Piguet Releases Fratello
Audemars Piguet Releases Jan 30, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Recent Audemars Piguet Releases

At the beginning of every year, Audemars Piguet graces us with a series of novelties. Last year was a big one for Audemars Piguet, with the unveiling of some brilliant new releases to mark its 150th anniversary. Among them were the new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and the Royal Oak Chronograph. These two watches introduced […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Recent Audemars Piguet Releases to read the full article.

In the shop - The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 5 x Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre Monochrome
Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre After Jan 29, 2026

In the shop - The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 5 x Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre

After the successful sale of our fourth Montre de Souscription, we are launching our fifth MdS edition. This time, the collaboration is with Angelus, with a timepiece based on a monopoussoir chronograph with a superb movement. The new Montre de Souscription 5 ticks all the boxes of what we love most at MONOCHROME: vintage inspiration, […]

Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 5 - Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre Fratello
Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre Our friends Jan 29, 2026

Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 5 - Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre

Our friends over at Monochrome are on a roll. Today, the team releases another watch in their line of Montres de Souscription. Introducing the Montre de Souscription 5, the Angelus Chronograph Tachymètre in steel with a golden dial. This latest offering comes quickly after the Montre de Souscription 4, which was a Habring² with a […] Visit Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 5 - Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre to read the full article.

Monochrome Monopusher: The Montre de Souscription 5 by Angelus SJX Watches
Angelus Jan 29, 2026

Monochrome Monopusher: The Montre de Souscription 5 by Angelus

On the heels of its sold-out collaboration with Habring² back in December, Monochrome is back with a vintage-oriented monopusher chronograph in collaboration with Angelus. The Montre de Souscription 5 Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre (MdS5) is a subtle riff on the brand’s Chronographe Télémètre, which walked away with the Chronograph Prize at least year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Initial thoughts I had the chance to see the MdS5 on the wrist of Monochrome founder Frank Geelen during Dubai Watch Week, and the watch makes a statement with its compact proportions. In fact, it could almost pass for a vintage watch. While historical reissues are made in abundance, they are often unnecessarily up-sized to suit modern tastes. At just 37 mm, the MdS5 has a tidy footprint on the wrist, and the 9.25 mm case height makes for a low profile. Interestingly, the watch could actually be a little smaller, given the compact proportions of the La Joux-Perret A5000, a manually wound monopusher chronograph movement descended from a construction first developed at THA by independent watchmaking royalty, including François-Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter. This lineage gives the movement cachet, though the La Joux-Perret movement is in reality a distant relation of the THA (and Jaquet) original. As a souscription series, as many as 20 pieces of the MdS5 will be made, assuming enough demand, with a non-refundable deposit due up front. The watch goes o...

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Omega Speedmaster is Still Out of This World Worn & Wound
Longines Wittnauer Jan 27, 2026

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Omega Speedmaster is Still Out of This World

A series of features identifying the most extraordinary mechanical masterpieces in history, blending precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. We all have our favourite timepieces either in our collection or those incredible horological masterpieces that have been invented or created through the ages. This series will showcase examples from the previous centuries up to the present day and look at the importance and impact on modern day timekeeping.  In the early 1960s, NASA realised astronauts needed reliable, tough wristwatches for space missions, especially for tasks outside the spacecraft like on the Moon. So, NASA secretly bought several chronograph-type watches off the shelf. They tested watches from Omega, Rolex, Longines-Wittnauer, and perhaps a few others under extreme conditions. “Space: the final frontier. These are the voyages of the starship Enterprise. Its 5-year mission: to explore strange new worlds, to seek out new life and new civilizations, to boldly go where no man has gone before.” These were the immortal words of Captain James T. Kirk, of the Star Ship Enterprise, played by William Shatner, in the hugely popular series, Star Trek, first broadcast in 1966. Today we are still fascinated with space travel and the extraordinary developments that have impacted on all of our lives since Mankind first set foot on the Moon on the 21st July 1969.  It is often stated that the technology that took Apollo 11 astronauts, Neil Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin and Mic...

Announcing - The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 5, Launching 29 January 2026 Monochrome
Czapek […] Jan 27, 2026

Announcing - The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 5, Launching 29 January 2026

Following the recent and successful release of our fourth Montre de Souscription, we’re thrilled to announce the launch of our next Montre de Souscription. Following the release of the Montre de Souscription 1, a salmon-toned, sector dial chronograph based on the Habring² Chrono-Felix, the Montre de Souscription 2, a MONOCHROME white interpretation of the Czapek […]

Hands-On With The New Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda Fratello
Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda What Jan 26, 2026

Hands-On With The New Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda

What a strange question. Why would the Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda, a new interpretation of the Swiss brand’s 50s Presidents’ Chronograph Heritage model, only be interesting for Real Madrid fans? Why wouldn’t the socios of Atletico Madrid, Barcelona, or fans of other football clubs outside Spain want this retro-looking chronograph on the wrist? Perhaps it’s […] Visit Hands-On With The New Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda to read the full article.

Rolex Reveals Daytona for Winner of 24 Hours of Daytona SJX Watches
Rolex Reveals Daytona Jan 23, 2026

Rolex Reveals Daytona for Winner of 24 Hours of Daytona

Many collectors wait months, or even years, to get ‘the call’ to come pick up their Rolex Daytona. But in Daytona Beach, Florida on Sunday, one lucky individual will take delivery after waiting just 24 hours. Of course, there’s a catch: they must win one of the most grueling endurance races in all of motor sport: The Rolex 24 at Daytona. In other words, it’s not exactly a day at the beach. A day before the green flag is set to fly, Rolex has taken the wraps off this year’s trophy. Curiously, it’s not a ‘Le Mans’ edition, which features a cleverly constructed 24-hour elapsed time sub-dial, but rather a standard two-tone Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126503 with a one-of-a-kind engraving on the case back - a configuration that’s been awarded to the race champion going back to at least 2017. The ‘Daytona’ Daytona Rolex has been associated with a 4.2-mile stretch of hard-packed sand on the Atlantic ocean for nearly a century. The unique conditions of Daytona Beach made it the home of speed in the early 20th century, where several land speed records were broken. The brand’s first testimonee from the world of motor sport, Sir Malcom Campbell, was arguably the king of Daytona Beach, setting a record of 438 kmh in 1933 while wearing a Rolex Oyster. Rolex’s first motor sport testimonee Sir Malcolm Campbell on Daytona Beach in 1935. Image © Bettmann/CORBIS Rolex deepened its association with Daytona in 1963 by naming its chronograph collection after the famous...

A Look at the Novelties from Tiffany & Co., Gerald Genta, and Daniel Roth for LVMH Watch Week Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Zenith Jan 22, 2026

A Look at the Novelties from Tiffany & Co., Gerald Genta, and Daniel Roth for LVMH Watch Week

Among the new releases at LVMH Watch Week this year were a series of novelties from brands that casual observers might sometimes forget sit inside the LVMH portfolio. Tiffany & Co., Gerald Genta, and Daniel Roth all unveiled new pieces this week to varying degrees of fanfare. And while these boutique luxury brands are very different in shape from the likes of TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Hublot, which really form the core of the LVMH watch business, it says a lot about the power and reach of LVMH as an entity that these brands fall under their purview. All three brands are recent additions to the LVMH stable, with Gerald Genta joining upon its relaunch in 2023, TIffayny & Co. when the sale of the company to LVMH went through in 2021, and Daniel Roth in 2011, when LVMH acquired Bulgari, then caretakers of Roth’s brand (LVMH relaunched Daniel Roth as a separate entity in 2023). These three brands also seem arranged in the LVMH ecosystem to compete directly with high end independent brands, particularly Daniel Roth, a name once seen as preeminent in the world of independent watchmaking.  Let’s run through the key releases from each brand at this year’s LVMH Watch Week. Tiffany & Co. debuted the Tiffany Timer, a three register chronograph with El Primero movement that flies under the radar, perhaps, in a few ways. First and foremost, that white metal case is not steel or white gold, but solid platinum. And the indices at each hour are baguette cut diamonds, which seems like a...

First Look - The New Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton Jan 21, 2026

First Look - The New Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton

This week, alongside the monochromatic Chronograph in Black Ceramic and the Skeleton Black Ceramic & Gold, which added an interplay of black ceramic and gold-toned mechanics to the Skyline collection, Zenith revealed the Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton. This powerful new reference pushed the collection’s architectural design language into the realm of high luxury and complication. […]

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces the Rallymaster IV for the Australian Open Worn & Wound
Maurice de Mauriac Jan 20, 2026

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces the Rallymaster IV for the Australian Open

Maurice de Mauriac and Racquet magazine are back with their latest tennis-inspired timepiece just in time for the 2026 Australian Open, a blacked-out version of their Rallymaster watch inspired by the night sessions at the year’s first Grand Slam tournament - and another unlikely source. “I was really thinking about the surf culture around Australia,” said designer Carlton DeWoody. The Rallymaster IV keeps the 39mm case of past editions, but adds a black PVD coating, a black nylon with a single luminous white stripe down the center, and a black dial with a white net motif and one burst of color - neon purple, navy, light blue - in the seconds subdial. It all comes together into something edgier than you’d typically see in the tennis world and even with the various nods to tennis in the Rallymaster’s design, that surf inspiration is still apparent. DeWoody has looked for inspiration in other sports since he started designing the first edition of the Rallymaster ahead of its 2022 release. “A lot of my inspiration that looks like it’s tennis kind of came from other sports,” said DeWoody. “That tennis net motif was actually inspired by a racing chronograph. When you take the checkered flag and you kind of zero out to black and white, it becomes a grid. And that has a direct relationship to the grid of the net.” The Rallymaster series has always been colorful, with past editions featuring pastel pinks and baby blues, but the Rallymaster IV may be the m...

Sequential Sequel: The MB&F; LM Sequential Flyback EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; Jan 20, 2026

Sequential Sequel: The MB&F; LM Sequential Flyback EVO

MB&F; has updated its EVO line with an aquamarine version of Stephen McDonnell’s ingenious double chronograph, freshly upgraded with the flyback functionality first seen in the classic Legacy Machine Sequential. The Legacy Machine Sequential Flyback EVO is a tough titanium timer suited to the rigours of daily wear thanks to its shock-protected and water resistant case and supple rubber strap. Initial thoughts MB&F; has enjoyed enormous success over the last few years, and while the rising tide of interest in independent watchmaking has lifted most major brands, it helps that MB&F;’s products are excellent and original. While the brand rarely dabbles in traditional complicated watchmaking, its first two forays – the LM Perpetual and Sequential, both designed by Stephen McDonnell – are standouts in their categories. The Sequential in particular is among the most interesting and creative chronographs on the market. This latest iteration applies the movement’s latest upgrades, principally the flyback function, to a sporty, titanium, Legacy Machine EVO case, which comes with enhanced shock and water resistance. Despite these tangible upgrades, the EVO Sequential is no larger than its dressier precious metal Legacy Machine counterparts. That’s a good thing, since the watch has a commanding, almost overwhelming presence on the wrist as it is. One of the benefits of the EVO case, compared to that of the classic LM, is the presence of a FlexRing shock absorber that provide...

SJX Podcast: Best of LVMH Watch Week SJX Watches
Richard Mille than Jan 20, 2026

SJX Podcast: Best of LVMH Watch Week

Episode 26 of the SJX Podcast breaks down the best releases from LVMH Watch Week, which saw the return of the hand-painted Escale Worldtime. The slate of releases also includes a surprising new men’s watch from Tiffany & Co. powered by the Zenith El Primero, and the first all-new model from the modern era of Daniel Roth. Things are looking up for TAG Heuer as well, which launched a regular production version of the Seafarer with vintage-leaning ‘Intrepid Teal’ accents, and a new top-of-the-line Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph that has more in common with the likes of Richard Mille than the rest of the Carrera line-up. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

First Look - Hublot Presents Three New Classic Fusion Models in Sage Green Monochrome
Hublot Presents Three New Classic Jan 19, 2026

First Look - Hublot Presents Three New Classic Fusion Models in Sage Green

For LVMH Watch Week 2026, Hublot adds Sage Green editions to its Classic Fusion line: a 33mm quartz, a 42mm automatic, and a 45mm chronograph, introducing a soft, pastel tone to bridge sportiness and sophistication. Just like earlier Essential Grey and Taupe releases, these new references pair contemporary colour with a certain understated attire. The […]

Hands-On: New Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton In Black And Gold WatchAdvice
Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton Jan 19, 2026

Hands-On: New Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton In Black And Gold

A new take on the classic ceramic DEFY Skyline Skeleton. Black ceramic meets a gold-toned, high-frequency movement for a watch that’s as technically impressive as it is visually striking. Modern, architectural, and unmistakably Zenith! What We Love Full black ceramic case and bracelet combined with the gold dial make it aesthetically appealing! The constant 1/10th of a second sub-counter showcases the complexity of the movement underneath. Quick strap change allows for easy change between a ceramic bracelet or rubber strap for daily versatility. What We Don’t Would’ve liked to see the minute track, but more subdued. In white, it can make the dial seem even busier. While the 1/10th of a second chronograph is great for aesthetics and show of technicality, it doesn’t serve a real purpose. Even though it’s a skeletonised dial, most of the El Primero 3620 SK movement is still closed off. Overall Rating: 8.7/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 The world of ceramic watches isn’t what it used to be a decade ago. Advances in materials and manufacturing mean that ceramic timepieces are no longer niche or fragile experiments, but a genuine part of watchmaking. While crafting bold colours in ceramic can present its own challenge, the more classic tones like black, white, or blue are becoming far more achievable, allowing brands to explore the world of ceramic not as a limited edition or one-offs, but as a refined material for e...

Tiffany & Co. Reboots Men’s Watches with the Tiffany Timer SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Jan 19, 2026

Tiffany & Co. Reboots Men’s Watches with the Tiffany Timer

Since taking over Tiffany & Co. in 2020, LVMH has gradually revamped the American jeweller, starting with its retail stores and jewellery. The reboot of its watchmaking division has proceeded more slowly, and with jewelled ladies’ watches first. Now Tiffany & Co. has finally turned to men’s watches with the Tiffany Timer, a chronograph powered by the Zenith El Primero 400 movement. With a dial lacquered in Tiffany’s trademark blue, the Tiffany Timer is easily recognisable. And on the back, the movement gets a hand-engraved, solid gold “Bird on a Rock” on the rotor. The Tiffany Timer is a promising start, but the jeweller clearly still has a long way to go to compete with its rivals, or even luxury marques like Louis Vuitton and Chanel. Initial thoughts The Tiffany Timer has a few things in its favour, but isn’t quite good enough. The design is classical and appealing, though a little generic. Granted, the dial might seem a bit much, but for a small-run edition it makes sense. The baguette diamond indices on the Tiffany Blue dial are a nice touch, as is the “Bird on the Rock” on the rotor; both add a touch of luxe to the watch. The El Primero adds horological credibility, but only up to a degree. The El Primero is a historical movement with many strengths, but the El Primero isn’t quite high-end enough for a watch of this price. It would make more sense in an affordable, steel version of the Tiffany Timer that is presumably in the works. All in all the Tif...

A Rising Tide Lifts TAG Heuer’s Carrera Seafarer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer s Carrera Seafarer TAG Jan 19, 2026

A Rising Tide Lifts TAG Heuer’s Carrera Seafarer

TAG Heuer rides the vintage reissue wave with the Carrera Seafarer, a chronograph that tracks the tides with a quirky mechanical complication originally developed for the American retailer Abercrombie & Fitch in the early 1950s. Delivered in the brand’s popular ‘Glassbox’ case, the sun-bleached aesthetic features a champagne-coloured dial and Intrepid Teal accents to capture the spirit of mid-century maritime instruments in a modern, wearable package. Initial thoughts  The past year has shown that TAG Heuer is doubling down on technical credibility. The brand launched carbon hairsprings that are now ready for mass production as an alternative to silicon hairsprings, and the brand has also regained the coveted position as the official timekeeper of Formula 1. Furthering its bid to recapture lost magic, the Seafarer is a modern Carrera ‘Glassbox’ infused with the immense charm of the original Seafarer models signed by Abercrombie & Fitch. The Carrera Seafarer is powered by the modern TH20-04 movement, derived from the TH20-00, that’s been tweaked to show the times of high and low tide using a mechanism likely adapted from a moon phase indictor. While still reliant on the simplistic concept developed for the 1950s models, the complication’s gear ratios have been refined and modernised by TAG Heuer engineers.  As a result, the Seafarer displays the local tide times for a given place, serving as a proper tool watch for birdwatchers, anglers and fishermen in gene...

TAG Heuer Debuts Track-Ready Carrera Split-Seconds SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Debuts Track-Ready Carrera Split-Seconds Jan 19, 2026

TAG Heuer Debuts Track-Ready Carrera Split-Seconds

Having recently given the Monaco a rattrapante makeover, TAG Heuer has unveiled the Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph, the first-ever split-seconds chronograph in the history of the storied Carrera line-up. The watch combines the brand’s contemporary ‘glassbox’ case design with the Vaucher-derived TH81-01 movement, the only split-seconds calibre in production capable of tenth-of-a-second resolution. Built of grade 5 titanium inside and out, the Carrera Split-Seconds is positioned as both a technical showcase and a halo product for the brand. Initial thoughts It’s more than a little surprising that the Carrera, one of the most storied names in sports chronographs, has never been made in a split-seconds variant until now. In the vintage era, many of Heuer’s peers introduced split-seconds chronographs with movements sourced from Valjoux, which also supplied the ebauches for the Carrera, which suggests the technology was well within reach. That said, the Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph is arguably worth the wait, marrying the contemporary glassbox case design with the one of the only split-seconds chronograph calibres capable of tenth-of-a-second resolution. It’s a coherent product in more ways than one, carrying on the brand’s history of commercialising third-party calibres in design-forward, performance-oriented watches. In terms of design, the Carrera Split-Seconds feels more refined than the Monaco Split-Seconds, avoiding the superfluous “rattrapante” a...

TAG Heuer Scales Up the Carrera “Glassbox” to 41 mm SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Scales Up Jan 19, 2026

TAG Heuer Scales Up the Carrera “Glassbox” to 41 mm

TAG Heuer is growing its signature line of chronographs literally and figuratively with the Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” 41 mm. Stylistically similar to its 39 mm counterpart, the new Carrera features a larger “Glassbox” case but is otherwise almost identical, right down to the pump pushers and TH20 automatic movement, though enthusiasts will like the fact that the date display has been eliminated. Initial thoughts The “Glassbox” case is a good starting point, being distinctive but not as unconventional as the Monaco. The Carrera is retro-inspired but of an entirely modern construction, with its bowl-shaped dial, raised flange, and domed crystal. One of my favourite characteristics of the Carrera is the model’s pump-style pushers that give it a distinctive profile. Large and welcoming, the pushers provide the impression of a chronograph built to be used. And the 41 mm has the upside of doing away with the date. While the larger case is arguably not as well suited to the retro case design, it is a good fit for the TH20 that’s a relatively thick calibre. So while bigger, the 41 mm model is better proportioned in some ways. Commercially, the logic of the 41 mm is clear as well, since larger watches do well in many of the markets where TAG Heuer is historically strong, like the United States and Australia. Notably, the 41 mm includes a similarly scaled up version of the versatile seven-link stainless steel bracelet found on the smaller model. It echoes a “b...

Introducing: The El Primero-Equipped Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Timer Fratello
Jan 19, 2026

Introducing: The El Primero-Equipped Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Timer

The platinum Tiffany Timer commemorates 160 years of chronographic heritage. This 40mm platinum chronograph, featuring a dial color that has a special effect on many people, is available in a limited run of 60 pieces. The watch is an exclusive homage to one of America’s first stopwatches made by the famous jeweler. The new chronograph […] Visit Introducing: The El Primero-Equipped Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Timer to read the full article.

Omega’s Speedmaster Moonwatch Does a Reverse Panda SJX Watches
Omega s Speedmaster Moonwatch Does Jan 13, 2026

Omega’s Speedmaster Moonwatch Does a Reverse Panda

Omega continues to widen its already diverse Speedmaster offerings with the Speedmaster Moonwatch in “reverse panda” livery. Available in steel or 18k Moonshine gold, the latest iteration of the classic chronograph features a black dial in mirrored black lacquer with contrasting white registers, along with a ceramic insert for the tachymeter bezel. It’s something of a riff on the Moonwatch with a white lacquered dial launched in 2024. Initial thoughts This is an appealing variation of a classic. It might bring to mind past models with similar “reverse panda” dials, but the double-layer lacquered dial looks and feels quite different from earlier dials. The glossy surfaces is a pleasing upgrade that gives this a little more refinement. Like other recent Moonwatch iterations, this facelift moves the spaceflight-qualified chronograph upmarket while still retaining its technical credentials thanks to the Master Co-Axial cal. 3861 inside. Admittedly this strays a little from the “tool watch” roots of the Moonwatch, which was originally a no-frills chronograph. But the upgrades are not merely cosmetic – the dial is actually superior in terms of execution and finish, as is the bezel, case, and most importantly, movement. The cal. 3861 is clearly a big step forward compared to its predecessor. The lacquered dials don’t cost that much more than the standard equivalent with a matte black dial, which makes them a good alternative for someone who wants a Moonwatch tha...

Andersen Genève’s World Time Gains a Split Seconds Upgrade SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5373P Jan 7, 2026

Andersen Genève’s World Time Gains a Split Seconds Upgrade

Historically a complication associated with Svend Andersen, the pioneering independent who cofounded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the world time has been reworked and added to the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph movement to create the Rattrapante Mondiale. One of the most complicated offerings from Andersen Genève, the Rattrapante Mondiale features a clever two-level world time disc display while the cal. 179 inside is entirely finished by hand. Though the octogenarian Mr Andersen is now largely retired, Andersen Genève continues his artisanal approach to watchmaking that’s exemplified by the Rattrapante Mondiale. Initial thoughts Andersen Genève has produced a great many world time watches, but the Rattrapante Mondial is one of the most impressive. The movement is recognisably complicated, while the level of execution is high, especially for the movement and dial. Much of the work is also artisanal, as is typical for Andersen, which still operates out of Svend Andersen’s original premises. The Rattrapante Mondiale is appropriately sized for the design and movement, while the case styling is simple and good enough. Unusually, it’s a “destro” case with the crown on the left side and world time knob on the opposite side. The brand says it made left-handed cases for some one-off commissions in the past, but here it feels a little too much like an unnecessary affectation. It is also reminiscent of the Patek Philippe ref. 5373P...