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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Why Boldr is the enthusiast brand that you should have on your radar Time+Tide
Rolex May 30, 2023

Why Boldr is the enthusiast brand that you should have on your radar

Their name may not be as recognised as Rolex by the hoi polloi, but Singaporean microbrand Boldr Supply Co. has long been something of an insider’s secret among watch collectors. A winning combination of adventurous designs, fantastic build quality, and sought-after specs, all at “how do they do it?” prices, have made Boldr a favourite … ContinuedThe post Why Boldr is the enthusiast brand that you should have on your radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Depancel Jürgen Clauss Chronograph is infused with racing spirit and vintage style Time+Tide
May 29, 2023

The Depancel Jürgen Clauss Chronograph is infused with racing spirit and vintage style

Depancel and Jürgen Clauss have reunited for a second limited edition. The Depancel Jürgen Clauss Chronograph captures the racing spirit and blazing blues of the Alpine A110. They’ve used new-old-stock Valjoux 7753 movements, refurbished for vintage vibes and modern reliability. Many people wouldn’t have heard of Alpine were it not for the Renault Formula 1 … ContinuedThe post The Depancel Jürgen Clauss Chronograph is infused with racing spirit and vintage style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde May 29, 2023

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

‘Tis the year for the retrograde display here at Vacheron Constantin. The grand dame of watchmaking has released no fewer than three models with the mechanism at Watches & Wonders 2023. The first model is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, the most complicated of the lot. The next one is the Patrimony Retrograde Day-DateRead More

Watch Scrolling: Kat Shoulders Picks Five Instagram Accounts that are Worth a Follow Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Louis Errard Messena Lab May 26, 2023

Watch Scrolling: Kat Shoulders Picks Five Instagram Accounts that are Worth a Follow

We hope that heading into Memorial Day weekend you’ve got plans to do things other than constantly scroll through Instagram, but let’s be real: for watch enthusiasts, a long weekend is just a few extra hours to climb down the collecting rabbit hole. To that end, Watch Scrolling is back, this time with a selection of Instagram accounts curated by Kat Shoulders, Worn & Wound’s Media Production Manager. If you need even more IG recommendations, be sure to check out previous installments of Watch Scrolling from Blake Buettner and Zach Kazan. As always, we want to hear from you, so feel free to drop your favorite watch related IG accounts in the comments below – we’d love to see them. @secondeseconde   View this profile on Instagram   seconde/seconde/ (@secondeseconde) • Instagram photos and videos I’ve always been fascinated with people who make art from already existing objects and that’s exactly what @secondeseconde has done with watches. A little funny, a little tongue in cheek, they are always sure to make you kind of smirk as you see his artwork scroll across your feed. There’s a certain physicalness he brings to Instagram that I really love, even when it’s simply a photo within a photo of a watch. Call it vandalism or call it art, you gotta give mad props to him for collaborating with some big brands like Moser, Vulcain, Nivada Grenchen, Louis Errard, Messena Lab, and more. I can’t wait to see what he does next! @pockettrinkets   View this profi...

Rolex Milgauss Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex May 26, 2023

Rolex Milgauss Guide

Rolex, as always, made news at Watches & Wonders Geneva back in April with many of the new watches it will be releasing this year (we covered many of them here), but the Swiss luxury brand generated nearly as much buzz with an announcement about a watch that it won’t be making anymore. Back in March, Rolex announced that the Milgauss, a model it had been making continuously since 2007, with roots that go back even further, would cease production this year. The news was not necessarily a shock to everyone - the Milgauss was not on a par with Rolex’s most popular models, waiting-list mainstays like the Daytona, Submariner, and GMT-Master - but it was a disappointing splash of reality to the subgroup of Rolexistas who love the cult-classic antimagnetic watch, while also serving as a call to attention for watch-market speculators who rarely find a Rolex shortage that they aren’t eager to monetize. What makes the Milgauss such a niche favorite in the Rolex portfolio? Read on. Rolex founder Hans Wisdorf (above) could be described as many things: a visionary entrepreneur, a brilliant marketer, a founding father of the modern watch industry. But at his true core, Wilsdorf was essentially a problem solver. Just about every contribution that he and his company made to horological history sprang from a dedication to fixing or eliminating some issue that plagued watch wearers. Too tedious to wind your watch every day? Here’s the Perpetual movement (below). Your watch isn...

Opinion: When WatchRecon Alerts Tell the Story of Your Life Worn & Wound
Zenith Retro Timer.” I also May 23, 2023

Opinion: When WatchRecon Alerts Tell the Story of Your Life

The oldest WatchRecon alert that I currently have set up on my phone is for a “Zenith Retro Timer.” I also have an alert for a “Zenith Retrotimer,” because I figure if I’m not really sure how the name of this watch is stylized, maybe a potential seller isn’t either. I think I added this watch to my list of alerts sometime in 2018, or thereabouts. I was falling in love with Zenith as a brand, discovering all kinds of weird Defys from the 1970s and ana-digi watches from the 80s, but the novelty of the Retrotimer loomed especially large. This is Zenith’s continuously running, monopusher flyback execution of their famous El Primero chronograph movement. A push of the button near 4:00 sets the minute totalizer and chrono seconds hand immediately back to zero, but it just starts right up again. Zenith apparently didn’t make many of these (it’s kind of the definition of a niche product) and it seems like the kind of thing WatchRecon was invented for.  I’ve always felt that we can learn a lot about ourselves, and our watch collecting friends, if we stop to consider our WatchRecon alerts. This simple app crawls over the most popular watch trading forums (Reddit’s r/watchexchange, WatchUSeek, Rolex Forums, etc) to find listings matching a search term. It takes the leg work out of searching every forum individually, and when you make use of automated alerts that tell you when something hits, you theoretically have a leg up on the competition, and can fire off a...

Wilbur Watch Co. Introduces the LEO, an Area 51 Inspired Watch with a Unique Jumping Hour Display Worn & Wound
May 23, 2023

Wilbur Watch Co. Introduces the LEO, an Area 51 Inspired Watch with a Unique Jumping Hour Display

Here at Worn & Wound, we’re all pretty big fans of watches that approach time telling in an unusual way. In our collections you’ll find regulators, watches with offset dials and movements exposed from the front, watches with no numerals or indices at all, and you might even catch a d.m.h jump hour if you spend enough time on our Instagram feeds. The watch we’re looking at today, the LEO by Wilbur Watch Co., actually feels like an evolution of the d.m.h format – it’s a jumping hour mechanism that’s highly complex, but yields a surprisingly intuitive method for reading the time. And it comes in a big, bold package, partially inspired by a fascination with stories of extraterrestrials coming out of Roswell, NM and Area 51. So, you know, just a normal, everyday kind of watch.  At the heart of the LEO is what the brand refers to as the Engine One movement, an automatic, Swiss made caliber, designed by Wilbur Watch Co. Time is told via two discs on either side of the dial, one transparent sapphire, the other aluminum. The discs are each marked with symbols that look like hieroglyphics, which is part of the alien inspiration for the piece. Those symbols are designed to fit together to form numerals, though, as the discs rotate. The hour is read at the dead center of the dial, outlined with a bright blue ring, where the two rings meet. The minutes are read via a rotating ring at the outside of the dial (an arrow right below the hour indicator points to the current min...

Exclusive: Under the Dial of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Owned May 23, 2023

Exclusive: Under the Dial of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

As I was examining the Patek Philippe ref. 96QL once owned by the last Emperor of China, I wondered about the state of the movement. The watch is clearly old – it was sold in almost a century ago – and was not running. Phillips wasn’t able to show me the movement on the spot, understandably considering the value of the watch, although they promised they would get me some information shortly. Their response was more than I expected. Taking the form of a forensic report detailing the materials and details of the watch – right down to a X-ray spectrographic analysis of the dial – the information reveals much about the watch. To start with, the spectrograph of the reverse of the dial reveals it is 92.4% silver, 6.94% copper, with the rest comprised of silver and gold. This finally answer the long-ago question posed by Puyi when he tasked his manservant “Big Li” to scrape off the dial’s coating in order to see if it is platinum like the case. It is but a brass dial plated in silver. The analysis of the dial’s back Inside the platinum case is an 11”’ movement that likely began as an ebauche from LeCoultre that was then completed by Victorin Piguet, which produced the simple calendar module on the top. The movement was then likely sent to Patek Philippe, which applied the finishing touches and cased it. The back of the movement is evidently classical, with the flowing bridges that were then the norm in movement design. It is also finished as high-end movemen...

Three post-sale lessons from Sotheby’s Important Watches Parts I & II Time+Tide
May 19, 2023

Three post-sale lessons from Sotheby’s Important Watches Parts I & II

Following on from Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I and Part II on the following day, it’s always interesting to go through and assess not only the value of the watches themselves but any emerging trends and patterns. Whether you’re trying to figure out what the next best investment piece may be, or just keeping up … ContinuedThe post Three post-sale lessons from Sotheby’s Important Watches Parts I & II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels Time+Tide
Omega revisits May 16, 2023

Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels

Three new configurations for the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Titanium makes its debut in the collection, new green dial for stainless steel, all use coloured ceramic bezels for the first time Titanium model is US$2.6K more expensive than the original steel, new steel models US$1K more expensive due to new bezel and 18K moonshine gold … ContinuedThe post Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Introduces New References in their Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Collection, Including One in Titanium Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces New References May 16, 2023

Omega Introduces New References in their Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Collection, Including One in Titanium

Omega began teasing a new watch on their social media channels in the last few days, and while it was immediately pretty clear we’d be getting a new Worldtimer of some sort, the finer details were very much left a mystery. The existing Worldtimer has become a bit of a cult favorite since its release. It has a truly useful complication, and a dial that is undeniably stunning when you see it in person. The representation of earth as viewed from above the North Pole is a worldtimer trope, and there are a lot of ways to execute it, but few brands give you the detail that Omega can. That said, the watch has always been a little on the large side, and a new colorway is always welcome. Speculation ensued that a smaller version of the Worldtimer might be hitting boutiques, but what we got instead is a material change, along with a hard lean into green, which might no longer be the color of the moment, but seems to suit this particular watch just fine.  What we have in this release is actually a trio of new watches: two references in stainless steel (one on a bracelet, the other a strap), and a completely new version of the watch in titanium. Let’s tackle the steel watches first. These follow the same 43mm format as the existing Worldtimer (the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer, to be more precise), but substitute the familiar blue dial for one in a PVD coated green. The dials here have a light sun-brushed finish, and dial accents (hands and hour markers) are in Moonshine Gold. ...

The new Accutron Astronaut and Bulova Lunar Pilot models celebrate their place in the space race Time+Tide
Accutron Astronaut May 13, 2023

The new Accutron Astronaut and Bulova Lunar Pilot models celebrate their place in the space race

Why do watch fans love a good historical reissue? I can think of two reasons. First off, horological history has such a deep trove of interesting, important references to draw from, with a ton of classic models and innovative designs waiting to be discovered by new generations of fans. Secondly, they’re cool as hell, and … ContinuedThe post The new Accutron Astronaut and Bulova Lunar Pilot models celebrate their place in the space race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports Collection Returns with a Brand New Dial Color Palette Worn & Wound
Seiko 5 Sports Collection Returns May 11, 2023

The Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports Collection Returns with a Brand New Dial Color Palette

A dynamic duo is a way to describe a harmonious connection between two people that tend to create positive results when their unique traits are aligned together. Think Kobe and Shaq, Rick and Morty, or Thomas Bangalter and Guy-Manuel de Homem-Christo, aka Daft Punk. This phenomenon can also be found by way of successful collaborations between brands across different industries. Kith and New Balance, as well as The James Brand and Topo Designs come to mind. One ongoing collaboration in particular that happens to intersect our horological universe is none other than the one between Seiko and Rowing Blazers. Since their initial collaborative release in 2021, they’ve consistently found a way to combine the witty design personality of Rowing Blazers and everything we adore about a steel Seiko sports watch. In timely fashion with Summer just around the corner, Seiko and Rowing Blazers have teamed up once again to deliver a new set of dial colors to their Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports collection. This new release adds a fresh palette of colors to the entire collection. Like the previous release, the Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports is supported by three vibrant colors – a pastel pink, deep purple and canary yellow. The three dial colors host a set of black hour markers with T-shaped silver accents. From above, the hour markers look one dimensional, but a side profile reveals an angular quality that slopes towards the center of the dial. The remaining reference in this set is...

R&B; singer Daniel Caesar is a serious watch geek and his Patek Philippe album cover is the stone-cold proof Time+Tide
Patek Philippe album cover May 7, 2023

R&B; singer Daniel Caesar is a serious watch geek and his Patek Philippe album cover is the stone-cold proof

There are many celebrities who are watch collectors and enthusiasts that get talked about extensively – such as John Mayer or Jay Z – but someone who isn’t discussed that much amongst watch lovers is Canadian R&B; singer Daniel Caesar.   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Daniel Caesar (@danielcaesar) The … ContinuedThe post R&B; singer Daniel Caesar is a serious watch geek and his Patek Philippe album cover is the stone-cold proof appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Indiana Jones trailer shows Harrison Ford wearing a Hamilton for the saga-ending film Time+Tide
Hamilton May 5, 2023

New Indiana Jones trailer shows Harrison Ford wearing a Hamilton for the saga-ending film

If you could only watch movies from one series for the rest of your life, what would it be? Personally, due to the fact that the Marvel cinematic universe is far too expansive, the three I’d choose between are the Star Wars films, the Harry Potter films or the James Bond films. But were it … ContinuedThe post New Indiana Jones trailer shows Harrison Ford wearing a Hamilton for the saga-ending film appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Davide Cerrato Appointed CEO of Bremont SJX Watches
Montblanc May 2, 2023

Business News: Davide Cerrato Appointed CEO of Bremont

An English brand best known for its aviator watches, Bremont has just announced Davide Cerrato will take the helm as chief executive officer. An industry veteran with a background in design, Mr Cerrato will also join Bremont’s board. His career include stints at Panerai and Montblanc (and more recently, a brief tenure at HYT), as well as Tudor, where he played a key role in the brand’s stylistic reboot. Founded by brothers Nick and Giles English in 2002, Bremont has been run by the siblings since its founding. The appointment of Mr Cerrato is the latest development in the evolution two decade-old brand, which recently raised money from investors including hedge fund manager Bill Ackman, valuing the firm at over £100 million. And just last year, Bremont inaugurated a 35,000 ft² facility in Henley-on-Thames, an hour’s drive west of London, known as The Wing after its swooping form. Taken together, these developments clearly reflect the brand’s ambitions to be a global name in premium sports watches. A veteran in the cockpit Bremont got its start as a maker of watches aimed at aviators and soon gained a following for its association with various military fighter units. Amongst its best known watches is a wristwatch developed in cooperation with Martin Baker, the leading maker of ejection seats for fighter aircraft. While the brand’s focus on aviation-inspired timepieces has been the foundations of its success, the appointment of Mr Cerrato will likely bring change...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Atmoss SR-01 may have set the benchmark for budget pilot’s watches Time+Tide
May 1, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Atmoss SR-01 may have set the benchmark for budget pilot’s watches

Editor’s note: Due to unforeseen circumstances, Warrick’s Atmoss project will have to be put on hold for the moment to ensure the products can be delivered to the desired standard once resumed. Follow @atmoss.watches on Instagram for the latest updates Bringing an idea to reality is a daunting task, and when it comes to watches, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Atmoss SR-01 may have set the benchmark for budget pilot’s watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: Cosmic Seamasters, Wakmann Chronos, & Vintage Bulovas Worn & Wound
Accutron Here we have Apr 20, 2023

eBay Finds: Cosmic Seamasters, Wakmann Chronos, & Vintage Bulovas

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Accutron Here we have a beautiful Accutron with a cool, space-age design. As if the now classic caliber 218 tuning fork movement isn’t futuro enough, the dial and handset on this one take it to the next level. The champagne dial has a radial brushed finish and thin yet bold radial lines for hour markers. The unpolished steel case is simple and round, but with a nice beveled bezel and sharp chamfers on the angled lugs. The bold red hour and minute hands along with the black second hand complete the space-age look. Signed crown at 4 o’clock…as it should be. Seller states the watch runs and keeps time. Vintage Accutrons don’t get much better than this! View auction here. Eagle Star Diver Here’s a vintage diver I haven’t seen before. I have a couple of vintage Eagle Star Squale divers from the 1960’s, but it looks like Eagle Star kept going into at least the 1980’s! This diver has a great look, and is in fantastic condition. The steel case has the classic Submariner style with the crown guards, and looks to be sharp and unpolished. The black dial has large lume Arabic numerals and a simple date window at 3 o’clock. The hands are black and white with lume p...

Carl Suchy & Söhne waltzes into the sports segment with new Belvedere collection Time+Tide
Apr 14, 2023

Carl Suchy & Söhne waltzes into the sports segment with new Belvedere collection

Inspired by the world-famous Belvedere Palace in Vienna, Austria The Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere continues the brand’s aesthetic codes of contrasting directional lines The “Suchy Twist” is a new date display that changes position each day Watch enthusiasts are constantly stacking watches up against each other, drawing parallels in the design codes and dissecting … ContinuedThe post Carl Suchy & Söhne waltzes into the sports segment with new Belvedere collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Checking out the Sinn T50s in Geneva Worn & Wound
Sinn T50s Apr 11, 2023

Checking out the Sinn T50s in Geneva

The Sinn U50 is one of those watches that watch enthusiasts collectively knew would be a huge hit when it launched in 2020. Though essentially a shrunken-down U1 (with half the water resistance), it was Sinn doing what they do best. Humbly making incredibly rugged, high-spec, modern tool-watches, and making it seem easy. Thin at 11.3mm, well-sized at 41mm x 47mm for a modern, but not oversized fit, and built to withstand 500 bar of pressure, it demonstrated that good engineering prevails over scale. The only problem has been a lack of new versions since launch. There was a blackout LE with a dark MOP dial, which was cool, if not for everyone (Sinn’s head of marketing, Sabine Kleiter wears this watch, and it always looks striking). And then the U50 Pro, which was a date-free remix, with the crown up at 10. Another great-looking version, it was sadly limited to 150 pieces and to the North American market. Both are great, but neither a true addition to the line. And then, in 2023, we got what we wanted. Well, sort of. Rather than building on the U50, Sinn launched a sibling watch called the T50. At a glance, they seemed a lot alike, but there are quite a few differences as well making them a slightly different beast. If I were to liken it to something, it would be the higher-priced sport trim of the same base model car. They have the same dimensions and general design, particularly regarding the case, but are made out of hardened titanium, gold bronze (a patent-pending allo...

Chanel Introduces the Lion Astroclock SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces Apr 10, 2023

Chanel Introduces the Lion Astroclock

Titled Chanel Interstellar, the 2023 watch collection debuted by Chanel was inspired by “science fiction, space and time travel”. The line-up naturally included exotic variations on the J12, but the most impressive timekeeper wasn’t a wristwatch but a desk clock, the Lion Astroclock. Anchored by a lion, the Astroclock is typical Chanel in style. Almost entirely matte black, it has discreet touches of extravagance in the form of brilliant-cut diamonds on the hands, which form the unusual, planetarium-style time display. The lion is a reference to Leo, Coco Chanel’s zodiac sign Initial thoughts Monochromatic, sculptural timekeepers with the occasion gemstone setting, Chanel’s top-of-the-line clocks possess an easy, intrinsic appeal. The Astroclock is no different. At a distance, it probably won’t look particularly interesting on a desk, but up close the refined execution is visible. All the details within the glass sphere – the three-dimensional time display, polished surfaces, and brilliant-cut diamonds – need to be admired up close. With its US$350,000-ish price tag, the Astroclock is probably more expensive than it should be considering the relatively simple L’Epee movement, but it is impressive. Symbolism Clean and entirely in matte black, the Lion Astroclock echoes the styling of the Chronosphere clock of 2018, but with added astronomical elements that reference Coco Chanel. Standing about 35 cm high, the Lion Astroclock is comprised of a base enclosin...

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Voyager Skeleton SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Apr 10, 2023

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Voyager Skeleton

Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing its presence in the realm of serious watchmaking, an endeavour that began with its purchase of movement specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFT) a decade ago. While its recent launches have been extravagant in typical Louis Vuitton style – ranging from a gothic automaton to the casino-inspired jump hours – the brand’s latest is contemporary and low key. Enter the Voyager Skeleton, an open-worked timepiece that incorporates Louis Vuitton’s design language in an unexpectedly minimalist design.  Initial thoughts While Louis Vuitton’s top-of-the-line complications are certainly showstoppers, its simpler, regular production watches have historically been a mixed bag. But with a clear change in direction at its watch division, changes seem to be afoot, beginning with the Voyager Skeleton. Granted, it is hardly an affordable watch at over US$50,000, but it is a good looking time-only watch. The highlight is the styling of the open-worked LV60 movement that is both striking and restrained. The bridges possesses a distinctive, geometric style that is decidedly architectural. Although the automatic-winding bridge clearly forms a large “LV”, the branding is surprisingly discreet. In fact, the face of the watch has no overt branding, save for the open-worked barrel. Overall, the execution of the movement is appealing and lives up to expectations, save for one detail – the Etachron regulator looks out of place considering the ...