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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Why asymmetrical running seconds drive me crazy Time+Tide
Dec 18, 2021

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Why asymmetrical running seconds drive me crazy

Taste is subjective, we all have our individual preferences – therefore what irks me may not necessarily irk you. But What Tweaks My Tourb is all about the horological features and quirks that make me shudder. You may well totally disagree with my views in this series and I wholeheartedly welcome that too. In a marketplace … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Why asymmetrical running seconds drive me crazy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Brett Goldstein (AKA Roy Kent from Ted Lasso) wears a Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light at the Critics Choice Awards Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light Dec 16, 2021

Brett Goldstein (AKA Roy Kent from Ted Lasso) wears a Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light at the Critics Choice Awards

Aside from the FIFA video game series, I can’t say, as an American, that I am overly tuned into what the majority of the world refers to as “football”. But when Apple TV debuted their now wildly successful series Ted Lasso, one character became an instant favourite: Roy Kent. Played by writer and actor Brett … ContinuedThe post Brett Goldstein (AKA Roy Kent from Ted Lasso) wears a Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light at the Critics Choice Awards appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 SJX Watches
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Originally Dec 13, 2021

Up Close: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80

Originally launched with a quartz movement in early 2021, the Tissot PRX really caught on when it got an automatic movement a few months later. Equipped with a cost-efficient yet high tech ETA calibre, the PRX Powermatic 80 costs just US$650 – making it an easily affordable iteration of the integrated-bracelet sports watch. Initial thoughts Modelled on the Seastar ref. 40205 launched in 1978 – it’s practically a remake in fact – the PRX Powermatic 80 doesn’t try to do too much. Instead it focuses on doing just a few things right, just enough to look good while maintaining its affordability. Its modest price tag is evident up close, but the PRX still looks good enough on the wrist. The PRX Powermatic 80 successfully reproduces the feel of the 1978 original. It’s a little bit bigger, but still compact by modern standards. More importantly, the PRX retains the right proportions in terms of case, bracelet, and dial. One of its best features is its size. At 40 mm wide and 10.9 mm high, the PRX is just right. The case middle is fairly thin and matched with an equally thin bracelet – that has a solid double-fold clasp – giving it a refined feel on the wrist. As for the design, it’s a good look – and certainly a popular one today – but derivative. That’s because the 1978 original itself was fairly generic. The 1978 Seastar was just one of many watches that shared a style that was popular in the late 1970s and well into the 1980s. One of the most obvio...

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT just oozes the feel-good lifestyle Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium GMT just oozes Dec 12, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT just oozes the feel-good lifestyle

At the end of the day, what is a GMT really all about? The Bulgari Aluminium GMT seems to sum it up quite well when you think about it enough. If you’ve got overseas family, you’re probably used to doing the mental calculations in a split second. If you’re travelling across timezones, your smartphone will … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT just oozes the feel-good lifestyle appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Dec 9, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic

For many, myself included, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo has been a consistent benchmark for  craftsmanship, artfulness, and bravery in watchmaking. Off the top of my head, I can’t even count how many records have been broken with these watches, including all the mind-boggling complications in wafer-thin movements that still maintain that Roman design foundation. In … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Four unexpected takeaways from the new Tiffany Blue 5711 – the real final victory lap of Patek’s Nautilus Time+Tide
Patek Philippe announced Dec 6, 2021

Four unexpected takeaways from the new Tiffany Blue 5711 – the real final victory lap of Patek’s Nautilus

Earlier this year, Patek Philippe announced that the Nautilus, the most sought-after watch in the entire world, was being retired. The acclaimed reference would have one final victory lap – which many of us believed was a pair of Nautilus watches with olive-green dials, one with a diamond bezel. VIP collectors chased after the duo, … ContinuedThe post Four unexpected takeaways from the new Tiffany Blue 5711 – the real final victory lap of Patek’s Nautilus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Minase Watches’ first American tour exposes the craftsmanship of the cult Japanese brand Time+Tide
Minase Dec 6, 2021

Minase Watches’ first American tour exposes the craftsmanship of the cult Japanese brand

How do you communicate true quality? It’s a question that many brands face as they try to capture the attention of collectors today. For big brands, the difficulty of such a task gets alleviated by the pull of history and immense marketing budgets. Yet, for a small brand, trying to make its mark in the … ContinuedThe post Minase Watches’ first American tour exposes the craftsmanship of the cult Japanese brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Aleksander Nesterenko Makes His Debut with the Art Deco SJX Watches
Dec 5, 2021

Aleksander Nesterenko Makes His Debut with the Art Deco

Independent watchmaking is trending not only among seasoned collectors, but even in the broader, hobbyist community – something that was hardly imaginable not too long ago. But what is independent watchmaking really? An independent watchmaker can be loosely defined as one who creates – not merely produces – watches for each client on an individual basis, at least during his or her start-up period. This individuality and personalisation is crucial, as these qualities result in the sort of watches that convey the magic of watchmaking, allowing the owners of such watches to touch the soul of their creator. Just like any form of art, the spirit of an independent watchmaker is forever embodied in his or her work – though the second half of the life of the watch is bestowed upon it by the owner. Russian watchmaking The development of this niche segment of the watchmaking is nevertheless globe spanning, and it is present in one of the most scenic cities in Russia, Saint Petersburg. Perhaps led by Konstantin Chaykin, now well-known internationally with his inventive and quirky creations, interesting independent watchmakers have begun to rise in the city, with the most recent examples being Maxim Sushkov and HoD Russia. But today we profile Alexander Nesterenko. Like many extraordinary independent watchmakers of our time – including the acclaimed George Daniels and the lesser-known Thomas Engels – Mr Nesterenko learned watchmaking by himself. Through reading, practicing...

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Eden Rock St Barths is an even more limited twist on the Unico Sky Blue Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Eden Dec 5, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Eden Rock St Barths is an even more limited twist on the Unico Sky Blue

Last year, Hublot introduced a Big Bang Unico Sky Blue – which we raved about due to its eye-popping hue in a year where blue dominated the market. Limited to 100 pieces, the watch subsequently sold out. Yet buyers who missed out may now have the opportunity to secure something similar, although subtle and clear … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Eden Rock St Barths is an even more limited twist on the Unico Sky Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Premier B15 Duograph Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Premier B15 Duograph Hands-on Dec 2, 2021

Breitling Premier B15 Duograph Hands-on Review

What we love: Split Second Complication with 100m WR- Yes please!Open caseback displaying manual winding movement Beautifully laid out dial  What we don’t love: Thickness, some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Could do without cutout numbers on the dial (2,4,8 and 10)Due to the design of the top sapphire crystal glass, cannot see the tachymeter scale properly when looking directly at the dial  Overall rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 It’s not often you get a watch for a review and fall in love with it straight away! Well, for me this was the case with the new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph. Released a day earlier than the Watches of Wonders in 2021, Duograph is a part of the Premier heritage line. Originally released in 1943, Duograph is a spilt second complication that pays tribute to three generations of inventors – Léon, Gaston & Willy Breitling. Breitling used the term ‘Duograph’ in 1940 which refer to the complication “Chronograph Rattrappante”. Design: Breitling Duograph is offered in stainless steel or an 18K Red Gold case. The case size is 42mm with a thickness of 15.3mm and lug to lug measurement of 50mm. The variant we are reviewing today is the stainless steel model with the sunray blue dial.  Duograph had a fixed bezel and the Cambered sapphire (glareproofed both sides) acts as a bezel on its own. This Sapphire crystal top glass has a thickness of 3mm which adds to the o...

DUBAI DIARIES: “In Dubai, you could fall asleep on the street with your Richard Mille and it would be there when you wake up” – Pierre Biver Time+Tide
Richard Mille Nov 28, 2021

DUBAI DIARIES: “In Dubai, you could fall asleep on the street with your Richard Mille and it would be there when you wake up” – Pierre Biver

We are nearing the end of Dubai Watch Week 2021, but we are approaching the finish line strong. The day remained packed with Horology Forums, Collectors Lounge sessions, Creative Hubs, Masterclasses and more. Later on in the evening things kicked into a higher gear, fitting when you consider the topic of discussion was the 40Hz … ContinuedThe post DUBAI DIARIES: “In Dubai, you could fall asleep on the street with your Richard Mille and it would be there when you wake up” – Pierre Biver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

DUBAI WIND DOWN: “Rolex is actually the most authentic watch brand in the industry” – Maximilian Büsser Time+Tide
Rolex Nov 26, 2021

DUBAI WIND DOWN: “Rolex is actually the most authentic watch brand in the industry” – Maximilian Büsser

Another day of Dubai Watch Week comes to an end and the insightful discussions and excitement of fresh novelties keep coming. While I have only been here for days, I already feel at home on the fair grounds and, with the new friends I have made throughout the week, it is as if we have … ContinuedThe post DUBAI WIND DOWN: “Rolex is actually the most authentic watch brand in the industry” – Maximilian Büsser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ253 is a GMT with a lustrous black dial Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGJ253 Nov 26, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ253 is a GMT with a lustrous black dial

There’s very little mystery left with Grand Seiko’s design strategy, especially with their Heritage collection. Often taking direct inspiration from natural scenes that surround the famous Studio Shizukuishi, the Grand Seiko artisans manifest the beauty of the world around them into dials that breathe life into the watch. For most of us who can’t even … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ253 is a GMT with a lustrous black dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

PANDEMIC BABY: Meet the watch built by two legit living legends over Zoom – the MB&F; x Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra Time+Tide
Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra Nov 25, 2021

PANDEMIC BABY: Meet the watch built by two legit living legends over Zoom – the MB&F; x Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra

What did you do to express your creativity over the COVID-19 lockdowns? Get a sourdough starter-kit? Sit with your kids and fill endless reams of paper with drawings from Kids Art Hub YouTube tutorials? Learn to knit? Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Max Büsser designed a watch together. Comfortingly for the rest of us, who aren’t … ContinuedThe post PANDEMIC BABY: Meet the watch built by two legit living legends over Zoom – the MB&F; x Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Rado Captain Cook Automatic channels 80s style with playful fun Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook Automatic channels Nov 23, 2021

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Rado Captain Cook Automatic channels 80s style with playful fun

If the resurgence of the mullet as a fashion statement as we emerge from lockdown(s) in Australia isn’t enough to convince you, then perhaps the decision by large watchmakers to revitalise two-tone models could help. And yes, it’s true. Mullets are coming back. God help us. Watches are, after all, part of the luxury and fashion … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Rado Captain Cook Automatic channels 80s style with playful fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Contemporary Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Piaget tourbillon Nov 22, 2021

Highlights: Contemporary Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Complicated watches naturally come at a high cost of entry compared with simpler watches, at least at retail. But on the secondary market they can offer compelling value – except for a handful of “hot” watches (and we included one of those in the list too). At the same time, complications are intrinsically appealing because they possess the sheer technical quality that’s a key quality of high-end watchmaking. And there A. Lange & Söhne is no doubt a standout, especially for its watches that are considered benchmarks in their category, like the Datograph and Zeitwerk. So we round up a few highlights amongst the complications at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, covering a few value buys and also some star picks by Lange. So the list is diverse, ranging from the ultra-desirable Lange Datograph Lumen to a Piaget tourbillon with a form movement that is technically interesting and definitely strong value. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. The movement in the Datograph Lumen Lot 833: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen One of Lange’s trademark complications is the chronograph, simply because it does chronographs so well. It all started in 1999 with the Datograph. It’s still considered a landmark in modern chronographs two decades later for its fine, traditional construction. The model has been offered in s...

Thinking outside the (watch) box with Jaeger-LeCoultre and designer Henry Wilson Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Nov 22, 2021

Thinking outside the (watch) box with Jaeger-LeCoultre and designer Henry Wilson

If you’ve been collecting watches for any meaningful length of time, you’ve probably got the storage of said timepieces sorted out. But let me ask you this: do you actually display your watches? No doubt a great deal of time, effort and thought has gone into curating your collection. It should be a reflection of  … ContinuedThe post Thinking outside the (watch) box with Jaeger-LeCoultre and designer Henry Wilson appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Three Vintage Watches Worth Knowing About at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 3448 Nov 20, 2021

Three Vintage Watches Worth Knowing About at Phillips Hong Kong

Independent watchmaking may be the flavour du jour at auctions now, but there are still vintage watches worth paying attention to. Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale includes three of them, including an impressively crisp Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” (above) as well as the unique Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in platinum with sapphire hour markers – both of which will be million-dollar watches in US dollar terms (or ten-million dollars in Hong Kong currency). The last watch of the trio, a 1930s Tank Cintree in white gold, is the most elegant. And its seemingly new condition merits reflection: what is a skilfully and sympathetically restored watch worth? The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 819 – Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 “JPS” With the market for vintage sports watches having plateaued since it peaked in 2018 and 2019, prices have mostly softened across the board. That said, a handful of models still achieve impressive prices, most notably the Rolex Daytona “John Player Special”, or “JPS” for short. That’s because the solid-gold, manual-wind Daytona is an intrinsically rare watch – it is estimated that a few hundred exist as opposed to thousands in steel – and even less common with the “JPS” dial. Perhaps the most striking version of the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the “JPS” nickna...

Surviving (And Enjoying) The Great Geneva Watch Auction Week Of November 2021: Harbinger Of Boom Or (Imminent) Doom? Quill & Pad
Nov 19, 2021

Surviving (And Enjoying) The Great Geneva Watch Auction Week Of November 2021: Harbinger Of Boom Or (Imminent) Doom?

If you were there, you won’t forget it soon. And if you weren’t, you are still going to be hearing about it for a very long time indeed. GaryG posits that the November 2021 Geneva auction week will be remembered as the point in time at which either the value of collectible watches reached a new plateau from which they only continued to climb or the bubble in prices for pieces from certain makers reached its most outrageous dimensions before deflating or imploding. Here's what happened.

New: Breitling Super AVI B04. With live pics and prices. Deployant
Breitling Super AVI B04 Nov 17, 2021

New: Breitling Super AVI B04. With live pics and prices.

Breitling salutes the aviation history with the new Super AVI collection with watches inspired by the original 1953 “Co-Pilot” Ref. 765 AVI aviator’s watch and four legendary planes: the North American Aviation P-51 Mustang, the Vought F4U Corsair, the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, and the de Havilland Mosquito. Press Release info with live photographs. We haveRead More

INTRODUCING: The more refined and compact Grand Seiko SBGA461 & SBGA463 divers Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGA461 & SBGA463 divers Nov 16, 2021

INTRODUCING: The more refined and compact Grand Seiko SBGA461 & SBGA463 divers

Though Grand Seiko is typically known for their dressier watches and mesmerising dials, you’d better believe a company with “Seiko” in its name knows a thing or two about making tool watches. With the latest iterations of their famed Spring Drive watches, the Grand Seiko SBGA461 and SBGA463 show what it really means to have … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The more refined and compact Grand Seiko SBGA461 & SBGA463 divers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We asked Andrew six hard-hitting questions on his first six months with the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Sport During Nov 4, 2021

We asked Andrew six hard-hitting questions on his first six months with the Zenith Chronomaster Sport.

During a shoot in that small window in between lockdowns in Melbourne, Andrew and I were discussing some of our favourite pieces we’d seen and tried on this year. Despite not having the usual bulk access at major fairs, we’ve still had some great watches in the office to ogle. One of the first watches … ContinuedThe post We asked Andrew six hard-hitting questions on his first six months with the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C Time+Tide
Oct 25, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C

How do you make enough noise in the large microbrand watch scene to be noticed? Do you ride a wave, presenting a design collectors have seen countless times? Do you offer dirt-cheap pricing that leaves many of us wondering how long you’ll even be here? Or do you make something so “unique”, no one would … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.