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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

In-Depth: Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie SJX Watches
Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie Blancpain Nov 24, 2025

In-Depth: Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie

Blancpain has just unveiled its most complex modern-day watch, the Grande Double Sonnerie, to mark its 190th anniversary. This CHF1.7 million grand complication signals Blancpain’s return to the highest tier of haute horlogerie. One of the most technically ambitious chiming wristwatches ever made, the Grande Double Sonnerie incorporates traditional complications: grande and petite sonnerie, minute repeater, flying tourbillon, and retrograde perpetual calendar, but also offers an unexpected twist with two distinct chiming melodies, a Westminster chime plus a a bespoke sequence composed for Blancpain by Eric Singer of rock band Kiss. Initial thoughts It has been some time since Blancpain unveiled a truly headline-grabbing complication. The manufacture made its name in this arena with the 1735 of 1991, but in the decades since, its output has leaned toward more conventional high-end offerings - perpetual calendars, tourbillons, carrousels, and chiming watches - while its commercial momentum has come largely from the Fifty Fathoms and Villeret triple calendar. The unexpected Grande Double Sonnerie is therefore a reminder of what Blancpain can do at the very top level of watchmaking. The Le Brassus-based manufacture tends to be overlooked when speaking of high horology today, but the Grande Double Sonnerie should remind enthusiasts how sure-footed Blancpain is in this regard. Even before considering the many complexities of the timepiece, the watch impresses from the fir...

Hands-On With The New Circula ProSea Fratello
Nov 23, 2025

Hands-On With The New Circula ProSea

Circula, known for its collection of high-quality mechanical tool watches, recently presented its fourth diver. We put it through its paces on dry land and weren’t disappointed. Inspired by the brand’s ProTrail and ProFlight models, the ProSea combines conventional diving watch design with modern elements and techniques. Hands-on with the new Circula ProSea Automatic For […] Visit Hands-On With The New Circula ProSea to read the full article.

Introducing – The Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Goes Bold, With a 41mm Case and Meteorite Dials Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Nov 20, 2025

Introducing – The Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Goes Bold, With a 41mm Case and Meteorite Dials

Gérald Genta, the famed creator of some of the most influential and daring watch designs, founded his eponymous brand in 1969, and in 2023, it was relaunched. Guided by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and Artistic Director Matthieu Hegi, Genta’s creations were revisited with both reverence and ambition. The Gentissima Oursin series, introduced last […]

A Haute Horlogerie Makeover for the Girard-Perregaux Laureato SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Girard-Perregaux GP unveils Nov 19, 2025

A Haute Horlogerie Makeover for the Girard-Perregaux Laureato

Girard-Perregaux (GP) unveils the second chapter of the Laureato’s 50th anniversary with the Laureato Three Gold Bridges Tourbillon. First launched as part of the earlier generation Laureato in the 1990s, the tourbillon has been reimagined with a monochromatic palette in a limited edition of 50 pieces that evokes GP’s golden age as a modern-day manufacture.   Initial thoughts Few tourbillon movements are as iconic as the GP Three Gold Bridges. The concept debuted in a tourbillon pocket watch in 1867 and the manufacture has since adopted the signature arrow-shaped bridge as its logo and even employed the motif in movements without a tourbillon.  Fortunately, the new Laureato is very much a tourbillon; this combination of two icons should please both fans of the brand and enthusiasts alike. The GP9620 tourbillon movement is good example of high-quality, in-house watchmaking, and is evidently constructed and finished to a high standard. Derived from the GP9400 series of movements, the GP9620 features improved finishing and a new monochromatic palette. Remaining true to the original three bridges design, the proprietary calibre retains the visual identity of early GP pocket watch tourbillon movements, including the brand’s iconic tourbillon cage immortalised as its own design by Reinhard Meis in his book Das Tourbillon; very few brands have a tourbillon they can truly call their own. But the movement also incorporates modern amenities like automatic winding – thanks...

Laurent Ferrier Introduces The Classic Origin Beige - Can You Feel The Cashmere Vibes? Fratello
Laurent Ferrier Nov 19, 2025

Laurent Ferrier Introduces The Classic Origin Beige - Can You Feel The Cashmere Vibes?

Are you familiar with the “sad beige” aesthetic? In case you don’t, “sad beige” is also known as “sad beige mom,” and it’s a visual aesthetic that revolves around the use of little to no color in one’s household, appearance, and style. Sad beige is even plainer than “vanilla.” However, beige is also seen as […] Visit Laurent Ferrier Introduces The Classic Origin Beige - Can You Feel The Cashmere Vibes? to read the full article.

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Thin Onyx is German Formal SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Nov 17, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Thin Onyx is German Formal

One of the last launches of 2025 for A. Lange & Söhne, the Saxonia Thin Onyx is a riff on the brand’s most affordable and simplest watch. It’s only modestly different from the standard model – the dial is onyx stone while the case metal isn’t part of regular production – but the Saxonia Thin Onyx stands out. The watch is almost the dictionary definition of a formal-wear timepiece: flat, two hands and minimal colour or embellishment, so much so it blends into conventional Western formal dress. In fact, this is one of the strongest offerings in the formal-dress-watch segment because it is stark, elegant, and priced well. Initial thoughts Lange tend towards the high end of the price spectrum simply because of the brand’s focus on complications and quality. And the brand has also raised retail prices significantly in the last few years. So an affordable-ish Lange that isn’t a run-of-the-mill watch is a good thing. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is exactly that. While it is based on Lange’s entry-level dress watch, a fine but no frills timepiece, the onyx edition is different in look, feel, and materials. It’s available in two metals not offered for the regular production – platinum and Honeygold – and the dial is of course onyx, a mineral stone used sparingly (so far) in limited editions. At 6.2 mm high, the case is half the thickness of a Datograph and sits flat against the wrist. Though the case is 40 mm rather than the smaller size offered for the standard mod...

Hands-On With Four Versions Of The Louis Erard 2340 In Steel And Titanium   Fratello
Louis Erard 2340 Nov 17, 2025

Hands-On With Four Versions Of The Louis Erard 2340 In Steel And Titanium  

What can you do in Le Noirmont, a town of 1,629 inhabitants situated in the Swiss canton of Jura? You can go for a hike in the mountains surrounding the village. And if you’re into watches, a visit to the Musée de la Boîte de Montre (The Watch Case Museum) is a good idea. It’s […] Visit Hands-On With Four Versions Of The Louis Erard 2340 In Steel And Titanium   to read the full article.

Driving Design: An Audi Enthusiast Finds His Place in the Watch Community Worn & Wound
Nov 13, 2025

Driving Design: An Audi Enthusiast Finds His Place in the Watch Community

Joey is a pianist, watch collector, and Volkswagen/Audi enthusiast.  Joey and I met as many watch enthusiasts do; overhearing a wrist check conversation and nudging our individual ways into it at the same time. Of course, this conversation was also at a car show, which served as the catalyst for this eventual article, and over the course of six months, a real friendship forged through timepieces and an Audi TT RS.  A San Francisco native with an eye for custom style, Joey naturally started his car journey with custom Volkswagens. “From the specific years you bought, how you lowered it, interior to the color scheme you could tell you were from San Francisco,” he says, motioning to a VW Kharmann Ghia across the sea of car enthusiasts that we stand distanced from on a warm and clear Sunday morning in September. Family and friends modified air-cooled V-Dubs, introducing him to the art of modifying cars-a topic that remains contentious among enthusiasts, some of whom prefer to keep their classic machines stock, in stark opposition to the hot rodders and lowriders of the scene.  A fleeting glance of a late-model Volkswagen Scirocco 16V in Brilliant Black kickstarted Joey’s personal pursuit of vehicular perfection, but his first automotive love was that car’s little brother. “I ended up going to the local dealer and bought a Mk2 big bumper Jetta GLI with the 2.0L bubble-block 16V instead”, Joey admits, showing a hint of his present self’s penchant for practical...

The Best Watch Straps For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 13, 2025

The Best Watch Straps For Every Budget

In every watch enthusiast's journey, there comes a day when you notice a piece that you used to wear constantly has suddenly lost some of its sparkle, and the watch that was once a constant companion has now been displaced into storage. That initial charm has been dulled by routine, and it doesn’t spark the same feeling of joy that it once had. But, before you accept that the piece has now been replaced by a shiny new favorite, there is one way to ignite the passion you once felt: try putting it on a new, fresh strap or bracelet. Here I will share with you some of the best watch strap brands out there to help shake things up. I will admit that this is quite a mundane suggestion, but we mortals crave novelty. A simple switch to a different strap can make an old, reliable piece feel suddenly new in our eyes. It can open up new ideas for what or when to wear it with, and, especially for more classic pieces, it can be an avenue to experiment with more boldness, more play with color and texture. So, today, instead of rounding up a list of watches that you might add to your collection or wish list, I’m going to break down some of the most steadfast watch strap makers on the market in an effort to help you breathe new life into a piece you already have that isn’t getting as much wrist time. We’re going to be running the gamut in terms of style, material, and design, and, hopefully, you’ll walk away from this humble article with renewed ideas on how to shake up your coll...

Hands On: Double-Faced Grand Comps for Vacheron Constantin’s 270th SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s 270th Marking Nov 13, 2025

Hands On: Double-Faced Grand Comps for Vacheron Constantin’s 270th

Marking its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin (VC) has celebrated in grand style, exemplified by the year’s latest, a pair of double-dial grand complications: Les Cabinotiers Cosmica Duo and Les Cabinotiers Moon Dust. Initial thoughts Each of the new Les Cabinotiers watches expresses a different facet of VC’s watchmaking identity. The Cosmica Duo stands out as a true wrist-worn observatory, combining 24 astronomical indications with a reversible construction that makes it unusually wearable for its complexity, while the baguette-set Moon Dust translates horological ambition into pure jewellery, with hundreds of diamonds framing a movement that remains uncompromisingly mechanical. As a group, these watches reinforce the idea that VC’s greatest strength lies in synthesis. Few manufactures can move so fluidly between engineering precision and artistic refinement, or treat engraving, gem-setting, and chiming mechanisms as parallel forms of expression. As unique pieces, pricing is largely outside the scope of this hands-on evaluation. As is typical for VC’s bespoke Les Cabinotiers department, each watch was almost certainly developed in close collaboration with its eventual owner, making them more commissions than catalogue items. Their value, therefore, lies not only in their material complexity but also in the fact that each represents a personal chapter in the continuing story of Geneva’s oldest watchmaker. The layered architecture of the Cosmica Duo. Image ...

Review: Looking Forward (and Back) with the Vario Futurist Worn & Wound
Nov 10, 2025

Review: Looking Forward (and Back) with the Vario Futurist

Time travel doesn’t exist. I mean, maybe they did crack that code deep in an underground bunker on the east end of Long Island between the 1950s and 1980s during what’s known as the Montauk Project. Our civilian watch enthusiast selves will never know the truth. Admittedly, I’ve been rewatching The X-Files a little bit too much lately and recently camped out in the Camp Hero parking lot to do some fishing. Fortunately (I have ZERO desire to mess with that) the closest we can get to time travel is courtesy of watch brands like Vario. They’re making some seriously cool, vintage-inspired pieces that hit on nostalgic elements of classic watches while providing all the convenience of modern construction, movements, and water resistance. Really, you’re getting the best of both worlds – vintage looks paired with modern construction. Today, we’re looking at the Futurist. A new watch from the Singapore-based brand that features a 39mm case, old-school faceted crystal, and a unique crown position that really got me thinking about why the default position is somewhere around 3 o’clock. Let’s take a closer look at this green-dialed stunner.  Case The first thing I noticed about the Futurist is the lack of traditional crown placement. No, there’s no crown at 3 or even 4 o’clock. It’s positioned at the top of the case, nestled between the lugs at 12 o’clock. The wide, flat crown has textured edges that make it easy to manipulate. Simply pull it out, set the ti...

Watches of the Navy SEALs: A History of Service Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 8, 2025

Watches of the Navy SEALs: A History of Service

Before getting into the watches of the Navy SEALs, it's worth establishing some context about these modern-day Spartans. Officially established in 1962, the Navy SEALs, one of the U.S. military’s most elite special operations units, has its origins in World War II, with the formation of organized maritime commando teams for covert reconnaissance of landing beaches and the mounting of coastal defenses. At first designated as Amphibious Scouts and Raiders, and later as Underwater Demolitions Teams (UDTs), the graduates of the Joint Expeditionary Base in Little Creek, Virginia served admirably in the European and Pacific Theater in the years following the 1942 attack on Pearl Harbor. In the Korean War that began in 1950, an expanded force of UDT operatives played a key role, turning their covert and demolition expertise to tunnels, bridges, and other coastal targets, as well as mine sweeping and infiltration.  With another Southeast Asian conflict heating up in Vietnam, President John F. Kennedy urged Congress to allocate more of the military budget to strengthen America’s capabilities in much-needed “unconventional warfare.” The result was the evolution of the UDTs and other special forces into guerrilla and anti-guerilla units that would be able to operate on “Sea, Air, and Land” - the Navy SEALs. SEAL team members, the first generation drawn from the ranks of the UDTs, were trained not only in amphibious activities but skills like hand-to-hand combat and hig...

In-Depth – 1.85mm… How Did Bulgari Create the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch? Monochrome
Bulgari Create Nov 7, 2025

In-Depth – 1.85mm… How Did Bulgari Create the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch?

At this point in watchmaking history, we can say, without taking too many risks, that Bulgari has become the undisputed master of ultra-thin horology. Breaking one record after another, the Italian/Swiss manufacture has been at the forefront of creativity and ingenuity, and while we are undoubtedly in a golden age of the ultra-thin watch, with […]

Hands-On With The New Seiko Prospex “Kame” Australasian Edition WatchAdvice
Seiko Prospex “Kame” Australasian Edition Nov 7, 2025

Hands-On With The New Seiko Prospex “Kame” Australasian Edition

Launched at the Seiko x Watch Advice event in October, the new Seiko Prospex Sea “Kame” Australasian Edition was a hit, and now it’s time for an Owner’s Perspective Review! What We Love An Australasian edition with design cues from North Queensland – the colours are great! The ease of wearing, even for a “larger” watch Value for money at under A$1,000 What We Don’t The pin buckle has a habbit of sticking out a little and catching on my pocket The bracelet could be more refined for a divers watch The steel strap minder looks good, but it’s not as functional as a rubber one would be Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 When it comes to Seiko, there are many iconic models in the catalogue, but few hold as much love arguably as the Prospex, and even more so, the “Turtle” with its turtle-shaped case, dive bezel and offset crown at 4 o’clock. Models like the Captain Willard, named after Martin Sheen’s character in the cinema classic “Apocalypse Now” are sought after and collectable. Just walk down a popular beach, and the likelihood is you’ll see several Seiko Turtles strapped to wrists. I was on the Gold Coast a few weeks ago, with the new “Kame” strapped to my wrist, and I saw no less than about 5 other Seiko Prospex Turtles on other wrists. Although none were quite as good-looking (in my opinion) as the new Australasian limited edition “Kame”. One reason I bought it at our e...

Another Studio Underd0g Limited Edition Sees the 03SERIES Getting a Taste of the Good Life (Courtesy of Massena LAB) Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Nov 6, 2025

Another Studio Underd0g Limited Edition Sees the 03SERIES Getting a Taste of the Good Life (Courtesy of Massena LAB)

The great paradox of many brands being so good at what they do is that they’re often so technically precise they lose a bit of personality in the process. Somehow, there’s a trade-off that many watch brands make in striving for the best, only to just miss the mark when it comes to anchoring their product to anything beyond technical specs, brand recognition, and the (oftentimes) half-hearted attempts to jump on a trend. We have, in many ways, become accustomed to this middling way in which watchmakers (and the same can be said for fashion brands and penmakers, truth be told). We have grown used to a sanitized, diluted version of personality for the sake of quarterly targets and minimizing social media backlash. It has, in effect, caused a chilling effect in risk-taking, in humor, in anything new beyond a different dial color here or a new steel bracelet there. It was with this sort of cynicism in mind that I was pleasantly surprised to see the latest release between Studio Underd0g and Massena LAB: the 03SERIES Champagne & Caviar. Finally!, I thought, scrolling through the photos, now this is a watch with personality. And then, of course, my second thought: if it isn’t actually made in the Champagne region of France, should it technically be called Sparkling Wine & Caviar? I’ll leave the purists among us in the comments to weigh in. The two collaborators couldn’t have been better suited for one another in partnering together on a release that’s as cheeky as it ...

The French Connection: Trilobe’s Parisian Workshop SJX Watches
Breguet Lépine Nov 6, 2025

The French Connection: Trilobe’s Parisian Workshop

Gautier Massonneau didn’t set out to become a watchmaker; he just wanted a nice watch. Nearly a decade later, the thirty-something Frenchman finds himself on the verge of re-establishing industrial watchmaking in the French capital with Trilobe. His partner in this evolution, Volcy Bloch, has helped steer Trilobe from design-led start-up to a vertically integrated enterprise capable of producing its own movements and, increasingly, of charting its own future. Having surrounded himself with an experienced team of watchmakers and engineers in the city’s upscale 9ᵗʰ arrondissement, Mr Massonneau has built something quietly radical: a young brand that began as an idea sketched in a Paris apartment that is now in transition to becoming a full-fledged manufacture. Initial thoughts It’s difficult to discuss the rebirth of French watchmaking without acknowledging the turbulence of the past half-century. France was once a powerhouse of horological innovation, home to Breguet, Lépine, and the great marine chronometer makers of the 18th and 19th centuries, but the industrial base began to erode after the Industrial Revolution and never truly recovered. By the late-twentieth century, the last national movement manufacturers had either collapsed or been acquired, their ambitions thwarted by globalisation and Switzerland’s ascendance. Lip, for example, was an early pioneer in electronic timekeeping, but the company’s head start wasn’t enough to insulate them from the rap...

Hands-on – The Elegant and Refined Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB529 Monochrome
Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB529 Nov 4, 2025

Hands-on – The Elegant and Refined Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB529

The Seiko Presage Classic Series has been on a quiet roll. Last year’s SPB463/465/467 trio set the tone with soft, bowl-shaped cases, curved dials inspired by silk, and a 3-day automatic movement that made the Presage feel both more Japanese and more purposeful. The open-heart SPB469/471 extended the idea with radial “raw silk” textures and […]

Introducing: The Maen × IFL Watches Manhattan After Dark Limited Edition Fratello
Maen Nov 3, 2025

Introducing: The Maen × IFL Watches Manhattan After Dark Limited Edition

IFL Watches and Maen are back at it again! After the success of last year’s Graffiti collaboration, it seems that fans were clamoring for a follow-up. While the first watch focused on the bright, vibrant colors of street art during the day, the new Manhattan After Dark envisions the city when the shadows come out […] Visit Introducing: The Maen × IFL Watches Manhattan After Dark Limited Edition to read the full article.

Book Review – The Book of Rolex, Accessible Knowledge about “The Crown” for Everyday Watch Fans Monochrome
Rolex Accessible Knowledge about “The Nov 2, 2025

Book Review – The Book of Rolex, Accessible Knowledge about “The Crown” for Everyday Watch Fans

With well over a century of watchmaking from the day the brand was founded until today, the world of Rolex can be a daunting one. As the most prolific and widely known brand, and with countless references, generations and innovations coming from the Swiss manufacture, it’s understandable some might get absolutely lost in the details. […]

Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Vs. Serica Parade 1174 Fratello
Serica Parade 1174 You would Nov 2, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Vs. Serica Parade 1174

You would be forgiven for thinking you’d landed on another one of our Dress Watch Season battles, but, no, this is a regular Sunday Morning Showdown. Still, we’re sticking with a new dress watch released this week, the Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage. Thomas will defend it against the Serica Parade, represented by Daan. If you […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Vs. Serica Parade 1174 to read the full article.

Introducing – Launching on Kickstarter, the new Northern Watches NW1 Bronze Age & NW2 Northerner Monochrome
Oct 31, 2025

Introducing – Launching on Kickstarter, the new Northern Watches NW1 Bronze Age & NW2 Northerner

Northern Watches, launched by the Norwegian-born and Swiss-based watchmaker Stian Lofstad, arrives with a clear message: show the whole day at a glance, keep the design clean, and build it in Switzerland with proven movement. The debut range splits into two references, the bronze-cased NW1 Bronze Age and the steel NW2 Northerner, but the concept […]

Aubert Ramel Debuts with the Ouréa SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Oct 31, 2025

Aubert Ramel Debuts with the Ouréa

While Aubert and Ramel is a new brand, and the Ouréa is a new watch, Thomas Aubert and Alexis Ramel-Sartori aren’t new to independent watchmaking, both having worked for a prominent name in the space. That experience is evident in a strong – and decidedly on-trend – debut that stands out even in a crowded market. Initial Thoughts It seems there are many finely decorated time-only watches on the market today; the two contributed to some of the better ones in their earlier careers. Now the pair strike out under their own name, and unsurprisingly, their first watch is quite good. Though the duo seem to know that already, as they have priced it close to, just a little below, leading independents. The Ouréa’s “scraped” dial brings to mind the wildly successful Chronomètre Artisans from Simon Brette. That probably isn’t coincidental, as the two both worked for Simon Brette. However, I perceive an even stronger, and more general, influence of Greubel Forsey in the Ouréa. It also calls back to Thomas Aubert’s Séléné, winner of last year’s F.P. Journe young talent competition. The scintillating teal accents, applied by atomic layer deposition, are a nice touch to set the watch apart, and the hands are incredibly well made. Interestingly, the filling in the hands is white lacquer rather than luminous material. That seems like a missed opportunity as the appearance would be nearly identical if it were lumed. It is also a shame that Mr Aubert’s recoiling sho...