Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Mido Commander Datoday Just Got a Seriously Clean Redesign
The new Mido Commander Datoday brings streamlined baton indices, a day-date complication, and an 80-hour power reserve for just over $1,000.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Worn & Wound
Citizen Introduces the Photon, a Limited Edition Celebrating 50 Years of Eco-Drive
I wonder how many times the words “It’s an anniversary year for…” have been written on this website? It probably wouldn’t be that hard to figure out, but frankly I have too many articles about anniversaries to write to devote even a small amount of time to this particular task. Case in point, the latest from Citizen, which celebrates not the anniversary of the brand itself, but rather a piece of technology that they have pioneered and has in many ways come to define them for both casual watch consumers and hardcore enthusiasts alike. That’s right folks, Eco-Drive turns 50 this year, and I think you’ll agree that at the half century mark it’s looking as youthful and promising as ever, countering the conventional wisdom and advice from dermatologists everywhere to stay out of the sun. The new watch is called the Photon, and when it hits retailers in the fall it will come in two versions: the BJ6560-53W in silver titanium and the BJ6569-59X in black coated titanium with a gold toned accent on the outside of the case. Both feature the same latticed dial made up of two metal dial plates that allow light to pass through and hit the Eco-Drive sensor. According to Citizen, the design is inspired by the famous “double slit experiment” that proves light can exhibit both wave and particle-like behaviors. I can already imagine 7th grade science teachers removing their watches in class to perform live demonstrations while simultaneously indoctrinating a new genera...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Surprisingly Creative Nordic Marine Instruments Lunør
One of the most intriguing natural phenomena is the aurora borealis, also known as the northern lights. Witnessing this display of colors in the sky is on the bucket lists of many travel lovers. I haven’t seen the spectacular green, red, and purple night skies, but I know from friends that they are mesmerizing. The […] Visit Hands-On With The Surprisingly Creative Nordic Marine Instruments Lunør to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – Ayrton Senna’s Debut Toleman TG183B Is Coming Up For Sale
Ayrton Senna da Silva. No one needs an introduction to that name, as he’s considered sporting greatness personified. Making an indelible mark in Formula 1 through sheer, unbridled talent and a relentless approach to racing (“if you no longer go for a gap, you’re no longer a racing driver”), he’s considered the greatest to have […]
WatchAdvice
King Seiko VANAC Review: Vintage 1970s Style Meets Modern Seiko Engineering
The King Seiko VANAC blends a bold 1970s-inspired design with Seiko’s modern 8L45 movement and a new vintage-style leather strap. What We Love: The textured dials with the gold coloured accents The angular vintage-style case The proportions and size for ease of wearing What We Don’t: The movement accuracy could be better at this price point The leather straps could not be up everyone’s alley The clasp on the strap doesn’t feel as solid as the watch itself. Overall Rating: 8.1 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 7.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 The King Seiko VANAC is a watch designed to talk to the collector market, and as such, the VANAC name is one that long-time Seiko collectors will recognise straight away. Today, the modern re-interpretations of the VANAC stay relatively true to the original models, but of course, with modern materials and standards. They’re instantly recognisable with those in the know, and do harken back to a time where the Avant-Garde was becoming more the industry norm across certain collections. So, before we get into this review, let’s take a short walk back in time… King Seiko’s VANAC Line Returns In A New Lease On Life A Brief History Of King Seiko’s VANAC First introduced in 1972, the VANAC line represented a bold departure from the more traditional King Seiko dress watches. Designed primarily for the Japanese market, VANAC watches were intended to be Vibrant, Active, New, Advanced, Comfortable — the meaning...
Monochrome
Introducing – The 1000-Hour Power Reserve Haute-Rive Honoris Meccanica, with Fully Exposed Mechanics
Haute-Rive is a relatively young independent watchmaking atelier launched by Stéphane Von Gunten, previously the R&D; Director of Ulysse Nardin, where he was involved with filing no fewer than 30 patents. Quite a background. The first watch created under his own brand was the Honoris, and it was a powerful release, to say the least. A […]
Fratello
The Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition Celebrates Citizen’s Quest For Accuracy In Style
When I read the press information for the Citizen Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition, I couldn’t believe it has been five decades since the Japanese brand introduced its first Eco-Drive-powered watch. That’s especially surprising when I put it into personal perspective, as it happened a year before I was born. In my mind, Eco-Drive technology still […] Visit The Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition Celebrates Citizen’s Quest For Accuracy In Style to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Christopher Ward C63 Sealander True GMT
The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander True GMT fills a conspicuous gap in the brand’s catalogue with a proper ‘flyer’ GMT, complete with an independently adjustable local-time hour hand. A handsome, expensive-looking dial conceals the new CW-002 movement, which is COSC-certified and offers a five-day power reserve - a rare pairing. While collectors have noticed that Christopher Ward’s pricing has risen steadily in recent years, the True GMT makes a compelling case that the technical substance has kept pace. The journeyman brand Christopher Ward (CW) is a brand that is evolving unusually rapidly, and seems to have been in a state of almost constant transformation since it was founded in 2004. The brand has cycled through a number of different logos in a fairly short period of time, which has confused collectors. The product mix has also shifted, reflecting more upmarket ambitions that have priced out fans of the brand’s early budget products. This instability has turned off some collectors, which is understandable - most luxury brands are fairly conservative, in part to emphasise the long-lasting social capital that comes with a purchase. That said, CW seems to have finally found an identity worth sticking to. The new logo, which combines England’s St. George’s Cross and the white cross of the Swiss flag, is simple and appealing, and concisely communicates the English/Swiss origin. And while it’s true that prices have crept up, the brand has increased innov...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Three New King Seiko Vanac Watches In Titanium
Some things must be titanium - orthopedic implants, for example. And the Lockheed SR-71 “Blackbird,” the retired Mach 3+ reconnaissance aircraft, could only do what it did because it was made of titanium. The three new titanium King Seiko Vanac watches might also qualify as something that just has to be made from that special […] Visit Hands-On With The Three New King Seiko Vanac Watches In Titanium to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Best Jump-Hour Watches
For a watch-enthusiast raised on traditional analog timekeeping, jump-hour watches do not necessarily present the easiest or most intuitive way to read the time on their dials, but they inarguably offer one of the most dynamic ways to do so. Instead of a slow-moving central hand to indicate the hour, watches with a “jumping” design rely on a numbered disk that flips instantly to the next hour numeral at the start of each new 60-minute period. These disks most often operate behind a round aperture and are usually paired with either a similarly rotating disk for the minutes or, perhaps, with an analog hand for an interesting hybrid design. And while they may seem decidedly avant-garde in their aesthetic, watchmakers have incorporated this style of time display in their movements for over a century. Here is a look at eight of our favorites from recent years. [toc-section heading="A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date"] The Zeitwerk, which German luxury watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne introduced in 2009, is technically a “digital” watch, but it isn’t like any other one you’ve ever seen: there are no electronics, no LCD screens, and you won’t find it at your local big box store. The Lange Zeitwerk Date flies in the ionosphere of high horology, with a 44.2mm round case, made of 18k white gold or rose gold, framing an intricately crafted dial that boasts a jumping-hour digital display, powered by the manually-wound L043.8 movement. Every detail of this watch is a handcraft...
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – Mercedes-Benz Goes MAD With The Unimog Luxury Show Truck
Forget your Defender, sell your G-Wagon, Mercedes-Benz has just presented the “Final Boss” of Go-Anywhere-Do-Anything luxury cars. What you see here is the Mercedes-Benz Unimog Luxury Show Car. Or truck, rather, as it’s the size of a house and if this were to roll up behind you on the highway, you’d better move out of the way. If not, […]
Teddy Baldassarre
One of the Most Complicated Watches for the Money - Longines Master Co
Since launching in 2005, the Master Collection has been the home of some of Longines' most versatile men’s and women’s models in their entire catalog. With elegant case and dial designs, this collection leans more towards the dress watch style yet there are design nuances that make many of these models adaptable for di
Hodinkee
Essays: Could The Most Radical Innovation In Watchmaking For 2026 Be A Paintbrush?
As watchmaking pushes toward ever-smaller technological gains, the most meaningful innovation might be preserving the crafts that can't be automated.
Fratello
Ladies And Gentlemen, The Hamilton Jazzmaster Quartz Octet! A One, And A Two, And A One, Two, Three, Four
Tell me, do you prefer bebop over cool jazz, fusion over hard bop, or are you more the swing type? No matter the answer, the top artists in any of these genres can be considered jazz masters. Now, please welcome to the stage the Hamilton Jazzmaster Quartz Octet! Eight watches in two sizes with six […] Visit Ladies And Gentlemen, The Hamilton Jazzmaster Quartz Octet! A One, And A Two, And A One, Two, Three, Four to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Kollokium’s Projekt 02 Variant B Treads New Terrain
Having teased its newest collection with a family and friends edition last year, Kollokium has finally taken the wraps off the Projekt 02 Variant B, which offers a low-profile die-cast stainless steel case and a terraced topographical dial. A massive box-form crystal contains the scene, offering a panoramic view of the 67 pieces that comprise the nine layers of the dial. A limited edition of 399 pieces, the Variant B is a well-priced entry point to the world of independent watchmaking, and could easily be worn daily. Initial thoughts Kollokium is a relatively new name in independent watchmaking, but the company’s three founders, collector Amr Sindi, designer Barth Nussbaumer, and Louis Erard managing director Manuel Emch, bring a trained eye and a fresh perspective to the brand. With a strong emphasis on design, underpinned by a simple but competent calibre, Kollokium seems to have mastered the game of trade-offs required to market a distinctive watch at an affordable price. Left to Right: Amr Sindi, Barth Nussbaumer, Manuel Emch. The Variant B is fundamentally a simple time-only watch, powered by an off-the-shelf La Joux-Perret cal. G101, an increasingly common base movement prized for its economy and autonomy, with a healthy 68-hour power reserve. But Kollokium’s watches are anything but ordinary, owing to the brand’s unusual dial treatments and case processing. The Variant B is technically the first publicly available version of the Projekt 02, which debuted last ...
Worn & Wound
A Case for the Royal Oak and Other Hot Takes on Audemars Piguet’s First Semester Novelties
I’ve been a freelance journalist for 14 years, and while watches have been part of my repertoire since the beginning, I didn’t fully niche into the horological sphere until 2018. One of the assignments I consider to be a breakout story that really gave my career in the watch world momentum came a year later in 2019. At the time, I was writing for The Hour Glass, and I had the opportunity to cover the inauguration of the Gérald Genta Heritage Association. In my then seven-year journey ascending to full horological obsession, I had come to revere Genta as one of the most influential figures in the history of watchmaking, and, in particular, I was charmed by the story of how the Royal Oak came to be. Yes, I have since referenced, been told, and retold the tale dozens of times over, but for me, Genta and the creation of the Royal Oak – the moment that arguably gave his career in the watch world momentum – will never get old and forever hold a special place in my heart. With that said, I’m here to share my hands-on experience with Audemars Piguet’s first semester novelties thanks to a recent trip to AP House in downtown New York City. Among them are several new versions of the Royal Oak, and while none of these are the frontrunner of the lineup, they still bear recognition in my humble opinion. Yes, I will have to respectfully disagree with my Editorial Director Zach Kazan’s opinion piece defining the Royal Oak as “a pure flex.” Sure, like countless luxury ...
Fratello
Is Panerai’s Purest Radiomir Its Most Versatile Modern Watch?
When I first picked up the Panerai Radiomir Quaranta PAM01572, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. I’ve tried on a few Panerai watches over the years, most of them big, bold, uncompromising instruments that seem to occupy their own postcode on the wrist. This one was different the moment I lifted it from the […] Visit Is Panerai’s Purest Radiomir Its Most Versatile Modern Watch? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Benrus Sky Chief Chronograph, a Historic Pilot’s Watch Reborn
Founded in New York in 1921 by Romanian-born brothers Benjamin, Oscar, and Ralph Lazrus, Benrus relied on Swiss production, centred in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and during the 1930s and 1940s, it became known for its pilots and military watches. Early models such as the Flyer and Airman were popular among the airline pilots, helping establish the […]
SJX Watches
Craft at Scale: Audemars Piguet’s Industrial Strategy
Audemars Piguet (AP) is a storied name in haute horlogerie, and has long been the public face of the Vallée de Joux, the cradle of high complications in Switzerland. It’s also the only brand in the so-called ‘holy trinity’ to employ a Chief Industrial Officer (CIO). We sat down with Lucas Raggi to understand his role in shaping AP’s industrial strategy. The historical home of Audemars Piguet. Image – Audemars Piguet The context Having closed the chapter on the brand’s first 150 years, AP is flying high. According to Vontobel estimates, the brand generated more than CHF2.4 billion in 2025, making it the third-largest brand by revenue after mass market masters Rolex and Cartier. The brand is estimated to have produced more than 50,000 watches in 2025, up from 30,000 just a few years ago. The ribbon-cutting ceremony at the opening of AP’s new Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – Audemars Piguet The new Arc Manufacture, which just came online, might raise the ceiling further. In a 2022 interview then-chief executive François-Henry Bennahmias suggested AP would be capable of making up to 65,000 watches annually by 2027. These numbers represent extraordinary growth for a century-old family owned brand that makes complicated watches. So how does a brand like AP (nearly) double its output in less than a generation without sacrificing small-scale craftsmanship? In short, thoughtful industrialisation. The recently opened Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – A...
Worn & Wound
Review: the Traska Chronograph
It’s gonna be cold, it’s gonna be grey, and it’s gonna last you the rest of your life. Okay, perhaps the quote from Groundhog Day has a bit too ominous of a tone when discussing a watch. Pretend maybe this was said in a nice way, give me a bit of a break (there’s been snow on the ground for 6 weeks) and we can move on with this hands-on of Traska’s newest entrance into the horological space – The Chronograph. This 39mm automatic chronograph is packed with features and comes in at a fairly reasonable $1650. The matte grey dial, unique approach to chronograph sub-dials, and attention to detail on finish and features makes this one stand out from the pack. Let’s take a closer look at this brand new piece from Traska that seems to check a lot of boxes that we as enthusiasts look for in our next watch. $1650 Review: the Traska Chronograph Case Hardened Stainless Steel Movement Seiko NE86 automatic chronograph Dial Tungsten grey with applied indices Lume BGW9 SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap Hardened stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 75 meters Dimensions 39 x 46.5mm Thickness 13.75mm Lug Width 21mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $1650 Case Clocking in at a very reasonable 39mm wide, the Traska’s hardened steel case wears great on my 6.75” wrist. The case features a mix of brushed surfaces with polished bevels. It’s a nice mix of finishing that blends the more matte elements with the high shine polishing, resulting in a case that is interestin...
Fratello
Long-Term Review: Omega Speedmaster Professional 310.30.42.50.01.001
The current Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 310.30.42.50.01.001 debuted on January 8th, 2021. The Moonwatch received a ton of updates, making many Speedmaster enthusiasts very happy. Those who weren’t hardcore fans, though, mainly found the big price increase from just south of €5,000 to €6,100 surprising. Updates to the modern Moonwatch You can read a full […] Visit Long-Term Review: Omega Speedmaster Professional 310.30.42.50.01.001 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Ming 57.04 Phoenix, The Return of the Destro Monopusher Chronograph
The audacity of Horologer Ming as a watch designer and an independent watchmaker isn’t to be demonstrated anymore… Over its short life, the brand has managed to create a strong identity, yet it never ceases to evolve. Since its debut in 2017, the collective led by designer and photographer Ming Thein has built an impressive […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby
Time flies when everything resonates nicely, doesn’t it? It sure does for Armin Strom. No fewer than 10 years have passed since the independent Swiss house launched its breakthrough resonance mechanism. Although not actively marketed as an anniversary model, I reckon it is safe to say this rather exuberant version, the Armin Strom Mirrored Force […] Visit Introducing: The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Kudoke 5 - A Piece Of Art For Your Wrist
Part of the fascination that drives my interest in watches is the endless variations in design and, even more so, completely new ideas that result in something I have never seen before. Most of these true innovations come from small independent brands that do not need to cater to the mass market. Recently, I was […] Visit Hands-On With The Kudoke 5 - A Piece Of Art For Your Wrist to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Vintage Speedmaster MK II, a Grand Seiko in Pristine Condition, and a Funky LED
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Bulova Ardsley We start off this week with a sweet little vintage Bulova dress watch from 1953. The seller doesn’t state the size but it’s going to be in the 25mm range. But while it’s small in stature, it’s mighty in the style department. The yellow rolled gold case has fancy lugs and a thick acrylic crystal that is like a little pyramid, divided into four angled quadrants, which give it a very cool look. The original crown is signed with the Bulova logo. The champagne/silver dial is original and in great condition, featuring stylized Arabic numerals and dot markers along a sub-seconds dial at 6 and sword hands. The case of course shows some wear, but watches of this era seldom don’t . The Bulova manual wind caliber 10BT movement is clean and runs well per the seller. Nice stylish piece that shouldn’t stress the wallet. View auction here Grand Seiko 5646-7010 And now I won’t keep you waiting any longer for the gem of this week’s finds, which is this spectacular vintage 1972 Grand Seiko 5646-7010. This beauty is the epitome of Seiko’s famous Grammar of Design aesthetic, with broad, flat planes and contrasting highly polished and brushed surfaces with sharp ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Panerai Radiomir Viaggio NelTempo Experience Set - Two Watches and A Trip Through Panerai's Italian History
For the first time, the Panerai experience offering comes with a pair of watches and an interesting take on a three-day movement.
Teddy Baldassarre
Vaer Watches Review: American-Assembled with GADA Specs
Most people think that getting into "real" watches requires a heavy-duty investment or a deep knowledge of Swiss history. In reality, enjoying horology shouldn't require a trust fund or a PhD in movement calibers. But for a long time, the market felt split between cheap, disposable plastic watches and unattainable luxury pieces. There was simply no middle ground for a high-spec timepiece that you weren't afraid to use. It was exactly this dilemma that became the driving force behind California-based watchmaker, Vaer. The two ends of the watch-collecting scope left a huge gap for anyone who just wanted an affordable daily beater that could hold up during a weekend hike or a daily commute. So, Vaer pledged to fill that gap. [toc-section heading="The Gamble – Why Vaer Exists"] VAER founders Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook Watch collecting can be an expensive hobby. In the world of horology, $10,000 is the type of money that secures a stainless steel Rolex Sub and a lifetime of brand prestige. For most young professionals with a passion for watches, saving up that first ten grand is a rite of passage. But for Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook, founders of Vaer watches, that money represented a fork in the road. When the two entrepreneurs looked at their savings, they could have gone one of two ways: walk into a boutique and leave with a trophy on their wrist, or bet every cent on a dream to build the "perfect" everyday watch that didn't yet exist. They chose the latter. C5 Field Bla...
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Mini DolceVita Review: Classic Design, Modern Luxury
If there’s anything you should know about me, it's that small watches are essentially my kryptonite. My affinity for the teeny and tiny isn’t abating anytime soon, and luckily, we’ve seen the watch industry, in recent years, begin to catch up to my own (and many others') desire for small watches. From Bulgari’s new tiny movement to the recent Minification of the Royal Oak, all signs point to watchmakers meeting the rising demand for small watches. But Longines was slightly ahead of the curve in serving up what the tiny watch enthusiast community had been asking for, delivering the deliciously bite-sized Mini DolceVita officially in 2023, and has expanded on this offering in the years following the launch. Obviously, I’ve long been bitten by the Mini DolceVita bug, and down below, I’ll be sharing what keeps me coming back to it beyond its petite frame. [toc-section heading="History and Context"] Longines early 20th-century design archive One thing that gets under my skin is when people automatically apply “Tank Dupe” to any and every watch with a rectangular case. Longines, like many other watchmakers, began making rectangular-shaped watches in the early 20th Century – like, in the 1910s, early. In the brand’s early archive, there are quite literally dozens of different rectangular watches along with other geometric shapes, reflecting the style and aesthetics of Art Deco. So, though the Cartier Tank is, inarguably, the most iconic rectangular case desi...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph in 38mm Is The Option Smaller-Wristed Collectors Deserve
Maybe too small for me, maybe too big for some, but I'd guess that this will be the Goldilocks option for a whole lot of people.
Fratello
Which 1,000m-Rated Dive Watch Is Right For You? - Part II
When we published the first part of this exploration into 1,000m-rated dive watches, the response was immediate and enthusiastic. That didn’t surprise me. Watches capable of surviving a kilometer beneath the surface occupy a fascinating niche. They go well beyond everyday practicality and venture into the realm of over-engineering, professional utility, and, often, obsession. These […] Visit Which 1,000m-Rated Dive Watch Is Right For You? - Part II to read the full article.