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Swiss Made

Legally regulated country-of-origin mark. Since 2017 requires at least 60% Swiss production cost, Swiss movement, Swiss development, and Swiss assembly and inspection.

“Einstein’s mistress who he gave his Longines to was actually a Russian spy” - A video interview with Longines CEO Matthias Breschan Time+Tide
Longines Dec 18, 2021

“Einstein’s mistress who he gave his Longines to was actually a Russian spy” - A video interview with Longines CEO Matthias Breschan

When Matthias Breschan speaks you could swear that he’d founded Longines 189 years ago, such is the passion that the Austrian CEO has for the brand. Having taken the reins of the Swiss powerhouse in July 2020, Matthias is no stranger to both heritage and modern watchmaking. He joined the Swatch Group in 1996, working … ContinuedThe post “Einstein’s mistress who he gave his Longines to was actually a Russian spy” – A video interview with Longines CEO Matthias Breschan appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Festive cheer, a broken arm and a very drunken watch buy… Time+Tide
Dec 17, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Festive cheer, a broken arm and a very drunken watch buy…

Following another COVID-blighted year, we’ve all learned to appreciate certain aspects of life that lockdown deprived us of. The joy of things like pub gardens, schools being open and vaguely regular haircuts. But the most sorely missed of all was the life-affirming pleasure of catching up with old mates. All of which made last night’s … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Festive cheer, a broken arm and a very drunken watch buy… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 Dec 16, 2021

Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925

The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is a dive watch in precious metal, but still affordable – by a large margin compared to the all-yellow gold version – but no less intriguing than its pricier cousin. The standout feature of the”925″ is obvious from the model name: a case made of sterling silver, which is 92.5% silver by weight. But the taupe colour scheme is perhaps more unusual, especially for a dive watch. Essentially a muted grey with a hint of olive, the palette makes this the most understated Black Bay to date. I was impressed when this was released at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, but found it seemingly bland when I first saw it in the metal, albeit tightly wrapped in protective plastic. A few months later, Tudor lent me one for a test drive. The brand had insured the watch and assured me that it was fine to wear it out of the house, so I wore it out the day I received it. Initial thoughts A bestseller since its inception three years ago, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight (BB58) quickly evolved from a single model into a line-up of five variants, three of which – gold, silver, and bronze – were launched just this year. Five versions in three years might sound like a lot, but each iteration is vastly different in both style and material, so each has its own appeal. Most importantly, each BB58 variant will likely appeal to different buyers. Among the BB58s, the 925 is arguably the most unique. For one, a precious metal case is novel for Tudor, a brand...

MICRO MONDAYS: Betting on black with the Brellum Wyvern GMT LE.1 Ghost Chronometer Time+Tide
Dec 13, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Betting on black with the Brellum Wyvern GMT LE.1 Ghost Chronometer

What would you do if you were an independent brand and created a specced out sports watch? A sports watch made with limited production and containing a chronometer-grade movement. Well, it seems for Brellum, you double down on the sportiness and provide something special. That something special in this case is a DLC-coated version, in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Betting on black with the Brellum Wyvern GMT LE.1 Ghost Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour Time+Tide
Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection Dec 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour

When someone hears “Omega”, the watch that pops into their head is invariably the iconic Speedmaster. Yet the brand’s dress watches are some of their oldest designs. Born in 1952, the Constellation line featured signature elements such as the fluted bezel and pie-pan dial that have subsequently made their way into three new Globemaster models … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sarpaneva Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Dec 3, 2021

Sarpaneva Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin

Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva had a hit on his hands with last year’s S.U.F. Helsinki x Moomin, a limited edition made to mark 75 years of the titular Swedish comic strip about trolls. Now the watchmaker is following up with the Sarpaneva x Moomin, which is seemingly identical in terms of design but actually an entirely different watch. Crucially, this is a Sarpaneva wristwatch, unlike last year’s Moomin edition, which was an S.U.F. Helsinki, a line of affordable watches spun off from Sarpaneva. Being a Sarpaneva, it is a higher end product, it has the decoration and finishing typical of Sarpaneva wristwatches, as well as the corresponding price. Initial thoughts Having enjoying a brisk sellout last year, the Moomin watch making a comeback is not a surprise. Ordinarily I don’t like repeats of the same thing, but here it’s not exactly the same thing. And in fact the new Moomin watch is tangibly superior. Sarpaneva is repeating the idea with a twist, putting the same design into a watch with better fit and finish. One obvious example of that improvement is the open-worked chapter ring around the dial, which is finished by hand with circular graining  and polished bevels. Another is the skeletonised rotor with the Sarpaneva moon “face” and solid-gold weights. While the intrinsic quality of the watch justifies the price, I would have hoped the dial motif would be different. Even though the dial is fancier with the hand-finished chapter ring, the primary moti...

DUBAI WIND DOWN: “Rolex is actually the most authentic watch brand in the industry” - Maximilian Büsser Time+Tide
Rolex Nov 26, 2021

DUBAI WIND DOWN: “Rolex is actually the most authentic watch brand in the industry” - Maximilian Büsser

Another day of Dubai Watch Week comes to an end and the insightful discussions and excitement of fresh novelties keep coming. While I have only been here for days, I already feel at home on the fair grounds and, with the new friends I have made throughout the week, it is as if we have … ContinuedThe post DUBAI WIND DOWN: “Rolex is actually the most authentic watch brand in the industry” – Maximilian Büsser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Andrew’s escape to Switzerland to visit Longines Time+Tide
Longines Nov 26, 2021

Andrew’s escape to Switzerland to visit Longines

This video was never scheduled to happen. However, waking up on a crisp Saturday morning in Neuchatel with Marcus our Creative Director and video master on hand, I could not resist dragging him out of his room and into the fresh Swiss weekend atmosphere. The mission was really just to recap what we had done … ContinuedThe post Andrew’s escape to Switzerland to visit Longines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ulysse Nardin Diver Lemon Shark Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Ulysse Nardin Diver Lemon Shark Hands-on Nov 24, 2021

Ulysse Nardin Diver Lemon Shark Hands-on Review

What we love:: Bringing recognition to an endangered species Black and lemon coloured diver is beautifully executed (Case-back showcasing lemon-sharks, needs to be seen to appreciate it)R-strap made entirely from recycled fishing nets What we don’t love: Price, some may find this to be expensive for what’s on offerAs much as we love the nylon strap, after few wears it tends to look old Bezel layout prone to catching dust  Over All Rating: 7.1/10 Value for money – 6.5/10Wearability – 7/10Design – 7.5/10Build Quality – 7.5/10 The Ulysse Nardin Lemon Shark Diver was unveiled as a beautiful shark-themed limited edition timepiece honouring and celebrating World Ocean Day. It also honours the well-known shark experts, divers, universities, and non-profit organisations that have given up their time to clean up and make our oceans better. On June 8th, 2021, Ulysse Nardin pledged their environmental commitment which follows the United Nations guidelines and its 17 sustainable development goals. The Swiss watch manufacturer has pled to meet these guidelines by the year 2030. The brand states that “Our aim is to reduce marine pollution by integrating materials culled from the ocean whenever possible into our new products. While we recycle discarded fishing nets into watch bands, we are also acquiring greater oceanographic knowledge with our focus being mainly on sharks.” Ulysse Nardin is devoted to shark conservation around the world, so it is only right that a wat...

DUBAI DIARIES: What I am looking forward to for Dubai Watch Week 2021 Time+Tide
Nov 23, 2021

DUBAI DIARIES: What I am looking forward to for Dubai Watch Week 2021

The eagle has landed. Your American Deputy Editor has finally made it to Dubai Watch Week. Prior to joining the industry, I had always heard great things about this watch fair. In the weeks leading up to my flight today, various industry colleagues told me I was set to have one of the best watch … ContinuedThe post DUBAI DIARIES: What I am looking forward to for Dubai Watch Week 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Balancier S2 SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Nov 21, 2021

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Balancier S2

Greubel Forsey’s house style is perhaps best described as contemporary, complicated, and often oversized, which meant some of its watches have a sporty vibe, even if they are not sports watches. The brand only unveiled its first true sports watch – with a 100 m water-resistance rating – two years ago and it was a world time plus tourbillon. The Swiss watchmaker quickly followed up with the Balancier S, a sports watch sans complications. And that has evolved into the Balancier S2, perhaps the brand’s ultimate time-only sports watch. It’s been further streamlined and pared back – and finally gets a matching bracelet in titanium for the integrated-bracelet look that’s now de rigueur for high-end sports watches. Initial thoughts I have always found Greubel Forsey’s watches appealing, despite the astronomical prices (which are justified, to a degree, by the quality), simply because they are original, modern, and extremely well made. But some looked more sporty than they actually were, so all the better that the brand now offers a bona fide sports watch, so that the functionality matches the aesthetic. By that measure the Balancier S2 ticks many boxes. It is functionally simple so the watch is (relatively) thin, and it’s made more wearable with a lightweight titanium case that has a curved back, and the equally lightweight bracelet. One feature that sets the Balancier S2 apart from the original Balancier S is the cleaner look, which works better with it being ...

OPINION: The second-hand watch boom and the elephant in the room Time+Tide
Casio nal wrist cheese turns Nov 19, 2021

OPINION: The second-hand watch boom and the elephant in the room

A watch is a curiously intimate possession. It’s worn on a person’s skin right next to their beating pulse as they engage in all the filth and fury of daily life. Thankfully, this close proximity (and occasional wrist cheese) turns out to be no barrier to the rocketing appeal of second-hand watches. The Deloitte Swiss … ContinuedThe post OPINION: The second-hand watch boom and the elephant in the room appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Magnificent Watch Collection Goes on Show in London SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nov 19, 2021

A Magnificent Watch Collection Goes on Show in London

Soon to open in London and then in other countries in 2022, the OAK Collection is perhaps the first time a private collector is staging an exhibition that’s open to the public. Taking place at the Design Museum with free entry, the OAK Collection exhibition is made up of just the highlights from the owner’s collection, but already numbers over 160 watches. [Edit December 1, 2021: The exhibition in London has been postponed to spring 2022.] Organised into thematic sections, the OAK Collection – short for “one of a kind” – is dominated by Patek Philippe. Most of the watchmaker’s most important historical timepieces are represented in the collection, including a ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial, as well as exceptionally rare variants of the refs. 1518 and 2499. And the collection naturally includes modern-day, special-order Patek Philippe watches commissioned by the owner. One of the exhibition’s highlights is the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial that also takes centre stage on the event poster And the collection includes five pocket watches that once belonged to Henry Graves Jr, the American banker who was one of Patek Philippe’s most important clients in the first half of the 20th century. Outside of the Patek Philippe Museum, the OAK Collection contains the largest number of watches that once belonged to Graves. Amongst the former Graves watches in the OAK Collection is the 1935 observatory tourbillon pocket watch ...

The Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 20 Years SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 20 Years Nov 18, 2021

The Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 20 Years

Situated behind Geneva’s Old Town and a 20-minute walk from the watchmaker’s Salon facing the lake, the Patek Philippe Museum is one of the world’s greatest collection of timepieces and mechanical objects. Made up of over 2,500 items, the museum is almost singular in the breadth and depth of its collection. Started in 1980 by Philippe Stern, then the President of Patek Philippe and father of Thierry, the collection is now overseen by curator Dr Peter Friess. The museum’s collection can falls into two broad categories: the history of mechanical timekeeping in Europe until 1839, and Patek Philippe timepieces from its founding in 1839. One of the prized items in the former category is a 400-year old, enamelled timekeeper by Jehan Cremsdorff, one of the oldest and most perfectly preserved pocket watches known. The entrance to the museum, which on a recent Saturday had a line outside across two blocks Sedate in dark wood and green carpeted floors, the galleries of the museum occupy two floors, with the third floor being an 8,000-book library and a small exhibit dedicated to the Patek Philippe company that includes a reconstruction of the office once occupied by Henri Stern, grandfather of Thierry and father of Philippe. Guided tours are offered, as is an audio guide. Interestingly, the central section of the library is a display of miniature enamel objects – but not incorporating watches – made in Geneva in the 18th and 19th centuries. Visitors start on the thir...

HANDS ON: The Baume & Mercier Riviera delivers 70s style on an integrated bracelet Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Nov 17, 2021

HANDS ON: The Baume & Mercier Riviera delivers 70s style on an integrated bracelet

If you’re going to draw inspiration from anything, the French Riviera is as good as it gets. Baume & Mercier’s Riviera line stems from the trauma of the 1970s, when Swiss watchmaking was under fire from the quartz uprising and adaptation was pivotal. Among the early brands to emerge with their heads held high were … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Baume & Mercier Riviera delivers 70s style on an integrated bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Unveils the Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365 SJX Watches
Breguet Unveils Nov 16, 2021

Breguet Unveils the Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365

Breguet is marking its invention of the tourbillon – way back in 1801, or 220 years ago – with an elegantly simple variant of its extra-thin tourbillon. The Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365 is classically Breguet in style, with a handful of aesthetic flourishes to mark it out as an anniversary edition. And it is truly a limited edition of only 35 watches, which is also the number of tourbillon pocket watches Abraham-Louis Breguet made in his lifetime. Initial thoughts Breguet’s Tourbillon Extra Plat is already impressively executed for a slim, simple watch, especially with a skeleton movement. The cal. 581 inside is typical of modern-day Breguet movements – incorporating technology in the form of a silicon hairspring and escapement, while boasting a high level of hand finishing. Fortunately, the anniversary edition doesn’t try to do too much differently. In fact, it is almost indistinguishable from the standard version. But that simplicity is appealing because it captures the spirit of Breguet, especially in its details like the off-centre dial and spherical, gold minute markers. Perhaps the only downside of the watch is its thinness. The case is so slim that its relatively wide diameter gives it disc-like proportions on the wrist, especially with its narrow, long lugs. A subtle tribute Just two small details on the dial mark it out as the anniversary edition. One is engraved just above the tourbillon aperture, the number of the patent awarded to...

Blancpain Introduces the Air Command Chronograph in Titanium SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Nov 15, 2021

Blancpain Introduces the Air Command Chronograph in Titanium

Resurrected two years ago with modern materials and tech, the Air Command was originally a 1950s wristwatch reputedly created for the US Air Force that was never serially produced, resulting in just a dozen examples made. With the success of the vintage-looking 2019 remake, Blancpain has followed up with the regular-production Air Command Flyback Chronograph in a modern palette, with a blue dial and a case in either titanium or red gold. Initial thoughts The Air Command reissue of 2019 was a hit. The 500-piece run sold out quickly and and now sells for slightly above the original retail price – a feat for a modern-day Blancpain. Unsurprisingly, Blancpain has stuck to the same successful formula with the new Air Command, which retains the same case and design, but manages to look quite different (and will no doubt feel different thanks to the case metal). The dial is finished with a “sunburst” brushing that gives it a metallic glint With its livelier colours, the latest version is arguably more striking than the original remake. At the same time, it avoids the pitfall of trying too hard to look vintage, as was arguably the case with the original limited edition. And the gold version makes sense as well. The Air Command is clearly a luxury-sports watch rather than a military-issue instrument, so 18k gold feels right at home with the design. For those who find titanium too dull or too affordable, the gold version is certainly the one to go for. Notably, Blancpain has...

When high fashion collides with high function - the paradox of the haute couture tool watch Time+Tide
Rado x Nov 14, 2021

When high fashion collides with high function - the paradox of the haute couture tool watch

Okay, weird question: Can a high fashion house known for made-to-measure dresses, luxurious silk scarves or fine handbags produce a legitimate tool watch? What? Who would even ask something like that? What kind of weirdo are you?!! Me, that’s who. I’m your huckleberry. I’m the one who will ask “why not?” more often than “why?”.  … ContinuedThe post When high fashion collides with high function – the paradox of the haute couture tool watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franc Vila Returns with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero SJX Watches
Nov 11, 2021

Franc Vila Returns with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero

A Spanish watch designer who founded one of the hot independent brands during the lead up to the last financial crisis, Franc Vila has made a quiet return with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. Turning away from the excessive style that characterised his original watches, Mr Vila now relies on the movement construction to create a distinctive aesthetic. Produced by an unnamed independent watchmaker, the FVF1 movement is open-worked to give it an airy feel. And it features a novel “piston” mechanism for the roller indicator for the day. Initial thoughts When I first encountered the FVF1 C2, it was interesting both from a visual and technical perspective. But I was sceptical as the brand has baggage. Mr Vila’s original brand went under after the finial crisis of 2007-2008. And while it was successful before it was not – at its peak the brand perhaps 500 watches a year – that brand’s watches were oddly styled, with a dial that resembled a monkey’s head (or a cobra according to the brand itself). But a decade has passed and Mr Vila’s latest creation is appealing. The styling found in his original watches has been dialled back, which is a good thing. The movement is open-worked and unusually constructed, giving it a distinctive look despite the simple outline of the case. At the same time, it has a novel mechanical function with the “piston” adjuster for the day indicator. And it is also finished attractively to a level similar to that of the Poincon de G...

Interview: Raymond Loretan, President of GPHG SJX Watches
Nov 7, 2021

Interview: Raymond Loretan, President of GPHG

A member of Switzerland’s diplomatic corps for some two decades – he was the Swiss Consul General in New York City until 2007 – Raymond Loretan was tapped to become the President of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2018. Just before the 2021 awards ceremony took place in Geneva, we sat down with Mr Loretan to get his thoughts on how the GPHG has evolved and where it is going. Raymond Loretan making the opening speech at the 2021 GPHG ceremony. Photo – GPHG Benjamin Teisseire: You have overseen profound changes at the GPHG since you took over as president in 2018. Is everything going as planned? Raymond Loretan: So far yes. We created the Academy last year and it represents a big change in paradigm for the Grand Prix. It worked well with the 350 members but with some glitches, which we have now learned from. This year, it worked even more smoothly with over 500 members of the Academy. No technical issues with the digital platforms and academicians were involved at all stages in the selection process. But the goal is to double this number of academicians in the next two to three years. That’s because it is the way to assert the three principles on which the Grand Prix is built. First of all is the Neutrality that has been questioned in the past. With this new way of working, this important pillar will be guaranteed. The second one is Universality. The more people coming from all over the world, the better this diversity will be represented. And it...