Hodinkee
Four + One: Even With A Quartet Of Grail Watches, This Collector Stays Hungry
Self-made San Francisco entrepreneur Sonya Yu will not be underestimated.
Results for Swiss Made
3,904 articles · 52 videos found · page 94 of 132
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Hodinkee
Hands-On: Oris Breaks Out The Bivalves In New Aquis NY Harbor Limited Edition
The Swiss watchmaker has partnered with New York's "Billion Oyster Project" to release a new dive watch and raise awareness for a unique cause in the Hudson River.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Yosuke Sekiguchi Primevère Prototype
Though born in Japan, Yosuke Sekiguchi is steeped in the tradition of Swiss watchmaking. He moved first to France and then Switzerland some two decades ago, and is today fluent in French and skilled at watchmaking. After a career at complications specialists like Claret and La Joux-Perret, Mr Sekiguchi established his own brand in 2020 with the goal of building a historically-inspired timepiece of extremely high quality. The concept is a familiar one that has been interpreted in various ways by others, but Mr Sekiguchi arguably succeeds far better in both paying tribute to the historical inspiration and achieving impressive, artisanal quality. His first watch is the Primevère, which made its debut just earlier this year. It is an elegantly designed and clearly rooted in 19th century pocket watches, but also novel in several ways, reflecting Mr Sekiguchi’s unusual approach to the concept. Amongst other things, it is robustly constructed and larger than such wristwatches typically are. And while the movement resembles its vintage inspiration, it is fabricated and decorated in a finer, more artisanal manner than the 19th century original. NB: The Primevère pictured here is the first complete prototype with a gold-plated case, so it still reveals several obvious imperfections in the movement decoration. Mr Sekiguchi promises the the final product will be perfectly finished and I believe that it will be. Initial thoughts Although it appears to be a pocket watch reproducti...
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier
Having made it a point to collaborate with contemporary artists – last year the brand recruited tattooist Dr Woo to design a watch – Roger Dubuis has now turned to Hajime Sorayama. Best known for his mirrored, metallic female robots – which were the centrepiece of Dior’s 2019 men’s collection – the Japanese illustrator applied his aesthetic to Roger Dubuis’s signature time-only wristwatch to create the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier. The Excalibur is perhaps the quintessential face for the Roger Dubuis of today. Skeletonised and sharply sculpted, the watch – as well as its movement – have been reworked by Mr Sorayama in the manner of his trademark robot drawings. Both the watch case and movement gain the rounded, mirror-polished finish that define Mr Sorayama’s work, which extends to depictions of Mickey Mouse and dinosaurs. A typical Sorayama work: Untitled, 2018. Image – Art Basel Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current offerings are ultra-modern timepieces that are done well in both construction and finish, but they are often overshadowed by their traditional predecessors. That’s a shame because watches such as the Monobalancier are amongst the better examples of a sporty, skeletonised watch. Already original and creative in both the movement and case, the Monobalancier is now made more appealing with the Sorayama touch. The artist has given the watch a makeover that’s subtle yet significant, reshaping some elements and giving most of t...
Deployant
Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222
The 1970s were a period of upheaval and turmoil for the mechanical watchmaking industry. This was the time of the “quartz crisis” during which the advent of quartz watches, with its superior accuracy at a much lower cost, had posed an existential threat to the Swiss watch industry. The quartz crisis led to a majorRead More
Quill & Pad
Visiting anOrdain In Glasgow
Most people know anOrdain because of its stunning handmade enamel dials. Elizabeth Doerr's own hands-on experience occurred because her interest was piqued by the nature of these tiny made-in-Glasgow works of art. Here she shares a personal visit to the anOrdain studio in Glasgow.
SJX Watches
Rune Bakkendorff Introduces the Moonwork Pendulum Clock
The result of a collaboration between a Danish clockmaker and design studio , the Moonwork is a tall, sculptural clock that stands almost two meters high. It’s an old-school pendulum clock in function but entirely contemporary in expression, from the thin, minimalist frame to the clever time display without hands. Danish clockmaker Rune Bakkendorff worked together with fellow Danes of design studio Ahm&Lund; to create the clock, which made its debut late last year at the Cabinetmakers Autumn Exhibit 2021, a Scandinavian furniture fair that took place in Copenhagen. The Moonwork at the furniture exhibition. Photo – Scandinaviandesign.com Initial thoughts A thoughtfully designed object, the Moonwork is attractive on several levels. At first glance, it is slender, simplistic, and hardly resembling a clock save for the pendulum. But paradoxically it is a clock, making the featureless time display is immediately intriguing. It is a clock, but not quite. The Moonwork does away with the conventional telling of the time and instead displays the lunar cycle – the moon phase is projected onto the white porcelain dome that forms the dial. An impractical but beautiful solution, this makes the Moonwork more of a sculpture that indicates the passing of the time. Remove the white porcelain dome and the entirely mechanical workings of the clock are revealed, although moon phase projection relies hundreds of LED bulbs that are hidden behind a silver sphere that rotates slowly to ca...
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The Omega Seamaster 300 That Redefines The Term ‘Vintage-Inspired’
Could a watch be tailor-made for Instagram? Could this be it?
Quill & Pad
Armin Strom First Edition Mirrored Force Resonance: Reboot Or Rebirth?
The new Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance First Edition is what some might call a reboot of the collection. But Joshua Munchow looks at it more as a rebirth. The new release has a high percent of shared “DNA” with the original Mirrored Force Resonance, but it is obviously made for a new era.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Greubel Forsey Lets It All Hang Out In The New Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture
The high-end Swiss watchmaker has absolutely nothing to hide – and this new case design proves it.
Deployant
New: Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black
Ulysse Nardin relaunches 175 new pieces in black Carbonium with a flashy yellow rubber strap or a black R-STRAP made of upcycled fishing nets.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Vertex AquaLion M60C Pushes The Microbrand Envelope
A glowing, sophisticated, and well-made dive watch, but is it worth the price tag?
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Doxa does everything white and it works
You’d think that Doxa has covered most of the spectrum with their colour options - everything from bold oranges and yellows to toned-down silvers and blacks. For Watches and Wonders 2022, however, the Swiss manufacturer introduces a brand new colour to their lineup - the Doxa Whitepearl collection. Presenting as highly contrasting references with optional colour-matched … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Doxa does everything white and it works appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Beginner's Guide: A Complete Newbie Loses Her Damn Mind While Attempting To Assemble A Movement
First, I made a rudimentary clock. Then I made a rudimentary watch. Then I flew into a fit of rage.
Time+Tide
The Longines Dolce Vita x YVY collection shows how a strap can redefine a watch
Leather is a material taken for granted in the world of watch enthusiasts. Yes, we may appreciate a finely made strap, even having one custom made to order. But a strap has always been a secondary compliment to the centrepiece that is the watch. With the Longines Dolce Vita x YVY collection, however, the straps … ContinuedThe post The Longines Dolce Vita x YVY collection shows how a strap can redefine a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Château Mouton Rothschild Artist Labels Are As Collectible As The Wine
For close to a century, Château Mouton Rothschild has been putting art on its labels, ever since 1924 when they helped Mouton’s young 22-year-old owner at the time, Baron Philippe de Rothschild, to change the way Bordeaux made wine. But what's behind the labels?
SJX Watches
De Bethune Fills Marc Newson’s Hourglass with Blued Steel
Designed a decade ago by Marc Newson, the industrial designer most famous for his Lockheed Lounge chair and the Apple Watch, the sleek hourglass is exceedingly simple yet remarkably complex to fabricate. It’s made of a single piece of glass – blown by hand in Switzerland – and filled with millions of tiny metal spheres known as nanoballs. De Bethune has applied its signature heat treatment to the object, resulting in the De Bethune x HG Timepiece Blue Hourglass, a limited edition pair of large and small timekeepers filled with heat-blued steel nanoballs. Initial thoughts More sculpture than timekeeper, the hourglass is a beautiful object that is incredibly simple yet impressive in its artisanal nature. The glass is blown by hand yet perfectly in form and proportions. The De Bethune touch adds another level of beauty to the object. Instead of the plated nanoballs found in the standard version of the hourglass, the Blue Hourglass contains blue nanoballs heat treated by Denis Flageollet himself. However, the addition of Mr Flageollet’s talents to the prowess of Swiss glassblowers comes at a high price. The smaller, 10-minute Blue Hourglass costs CHF25,000, more than double the price of the standard hourglass with plated nanoballs. That’s affordable relative to everything else than De Bethune makes, but it’s a steep premium for the hourglass. Tinkling timekeepers The Blue Hourglass is available in the two standard sizes: the larger, 60-minute timer and a smaller 10...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The BALL Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer 40mm
BALL are a bit of an oddity in the hierarchy of Swiss watches, having enjoyed such a rich history but not always getting the attention they deserve. They’re not exactly a budget brand, but their prices are definitely reasonable, so they fit into a very versatile pocket of luxury. Having been updated with three fresh colour … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The BALL Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer 40mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Doble Luna: A Delightful (Latin) Twist On A Classic Complication
Cuervo y Sobrinos drums to its own beat. And that beat has a vibrant Latin vibe to it as the heritage of the brand is anchored in the spirit and style that made Havana one of the world’s cultural hotspots. Now headquartered in Switzerland, the Latin spirit is still present in each of Cuervo y Sobrinos’ watches, including its latest creation, the Historiador Doble Luna.
Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: Watch Collecting With My Dad
We were close, but watches made us closer.
SJX Watches
Furlan Marri Introduces the Ref. 2116-A “Sector” Dial Automatic
A brand that made its debut just last year, Furlan Marri is all about affordable watches with retro style – just like many of its peers that entered the business around the same time. But the brand manages to set itself apart with a keen sense for design and details, something that was evident in its inaugural model, a quartz chronograph modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463. Now the brand unveils something that’s arguably more compelling, the Reference 2116-A “Black Sector”. Once again vintage in style with compact proportions, the “Black Sector” is however automatic. Initial thoughts My first impression of the Reference 2116-A was positive. The styling is appealing and it is well priced, despite being a major step-up from the quartz chronograph in terms of case quality and the movement. In fact, the 2116-A is very well priced. It costs about US$1,250 but brings along fancy features such as artfully finished “cow horn” lugs, which is typically found on more expensive watches or actual vintage watches. At the same time, the watch is replete with retro details that collectors will like. That includes a properly proportioned dial where everything is laid out just nice, in contrast to many modern-day “sector” dial that can appear sparse. And the Breguet numerals may not be original or novel, but they are pleasing. As appealing as it is, the 2116-A still has a few shortcomings, at least for me personally. One is the wide cover for the central boss of th...
Hodinkee
One To Watch: Havid Nagan's Paradoxical Sport Watches Are The Year's Unexpected Hit
Cali-based founder Aren Bazerkanian is inspired by Armenian culture, classical Swiss-French watchmaking, and West Coast architecture.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Cartier “Model A” Mystery Clock For a Good Cause
While lesser known than wristwatches like the Tank and Crash, the mystery clock is as quintessentially Cartier as its wristwatch counterparts. Bonhams’ upcoming Hong Kong auction includes a prime example of the classic Cartier “Model A” mystery clock. The first type of mystery clock developed by Cartier, the Model A, made its debut in 1912 and the first example was sold to banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Compact but striking in its details and transparency, the Model A is essentially a block of rock crystal sitting on a mineral stone base with accents of gold, enamel, and diamonds. This example that will go on the block at Bonhams dates to 1928 and sits on an onyx base. The mystery clock, however, wasn’t invented at Cartier. Instead the clock with floating hands was conceived by Maurice Coüet, a clockmaker who was first a supplier to Cartier before joining the jeweller. Coüet in turn was inspired by the work of 19th century clockmaker-turned-magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, the inventor of the mystery clock concept. The Model A is a two-axis mystery clock with the driving pinions for the hands hidden in each column of the frame Notably, the Model A clock is being sold to benefit an Australian conservation non-profit, thanks to the late Antony Coote, a farmer and businessman whose family formerly controlled Angus & Coote, a storied name in Australian retail that was once the biggest jeweller in the country. After selling his family’s stake in 2006, Coote turn...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: A Brief Exploration Of Funky Dive Watch Features
Three technologies that surprisingly made their way into dive watches.
SJX Watches
Business News: Jean-Claude Biver Joins Norqain Board
Founded by a duo who each hail from families long involved in Swiss watchmaking, Norqain is only four years old but has managed to firmly establish its identity as a maker of affordable sports watches. The brand is now helmed by young team with an average age of 35 – now the average is being nudged upwards by the addition of Jean-Claude Biver to Norqain’s board. “My role… allows me to be associated with an exciting brand in an essential price-point for the Swiss watch industry,” says Mr Biver in the announcement of his appointment, “It is very important to have strong Swiss independent brands in different price segments and Norqain offers an exciting challenge to the status quo”. Norqain remains a small brand, but stands out for its use of calibres made by Kenissi, the movement manufacturer majority owned by Tudor and minority owned by Chanel. Perhaps thanks to the strong industrial base of both its owners, Kenissi’s movements are amongst the best in of the price-performance ratio. The brand’s ability to call on a supplier like Kenissi is due in part to its founders, who were born into the industry. Norqain’s lead founder is Ben Küffer, whose father, Marc, once ran Roventa Henex, the private-label watches that is perhaps the biggest of its kind in Switzerland. Another of Norqain’s founders is Ted Schneider, a member of the family that once owned Breitling. Notably, the chief executive of Kenissi is Jean-Paul Girardin, who held the top job at Breitli...
Deployant
News: the legendary Jean-Claude Biver joins Norqain as advisor to the board
In an interesting twist, industry veteran and legend, Jean-Claude Biver joins the new Swiss watch beandNorqain as advisor to the board.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: How a fatal train crash became the catalyst for the Ball Watch Company’s success
The domination of the Swiss watch industry feels like an eternal truth, especially given the age of some of the most popular brands which stretch back hundreds of years. They may have always had the upper hand when it came to high-end complications and ornate decoration worthy of royalty, but there was a period of … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: How a fatal train crash became the catalyst for the Ball Watch Company’s success appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
John Duval: World-Class Wines From Barossa
Ken Gargett suspects that many wine lovers might be wondering just who John Duval is. However, the chances are very good that most wine lovers have indeed enjoyed wines made by John Duval as he was just the third man to be put in charge of Australia’s most famous wine, Penfolds Grange. Duval is now making sensational wines under his own name.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Hamilton Channels The 1970s In Its Newest Mechanical Chronograph
But this watch is made for the cockpit – not the disco.
SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Debuts the Chronomètre Contemporain II
Having already been revealed as a one-off for Only Watch 2021 – that sold for a record CHF800,000 – the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII) has now made it into regular production, albeit as a limited edition. The standard RRCC II is identical to the example made for Only Watch, save for the dial. Inside is the RRCC02, an all-new calibre with twin going trains as well as an independently-driven deadbeat seconds with hacking and zero-reset functions. And the dial is a two-piece affair in fired enamel – black for the platinum model and translucent white for the gold. Initial thoughts With the first edition having become the signature watch of Akrivia, it’s no surprise that the RRCCII continues down the same road in terms of design. But the RRCCII is not just a facelift; it is an entirely new watch. The movement is a new construction in both layout and complications, while none of the case components are interchangeable between the two generations. At the same time, the movement decoration – the most easily observed quality of Akrivia watches – has been refined. It is impressively executed and even exaggerated in some respects. The bevelling on the bridges, for example, is remarkably broad for a relatively thin watch. The degree of technical advancement from the first to second editions is impressive and demonstrates Mr Rexhepi’s pursuit of progress despite his brand’s tremendous success. The RRCC02 is instantly recognisable as a new calibre...