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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Hands-On: Cartier Tank Must With The Photovoltaic SolarBeat Movement Fratello
Cartier Tank Must Mar 1, 2024

Hands-On: Cartier Tank Must With The Photovoltaic SolarBeat Movement

Cartier introduced three sizes of new Tank Must models in 2021. The Tank Must debuted in the 1970s, but we hadn’t seen any new models for years. Now it’s available again in “extra-large,” “large,” and “small” versions. The extra-large model features a self-winding 1847 MC caliber with central seconds and date, while the large and […] Visit Hands-On: Cartier Tank Must With The Photovoltaic SolarBeat Movement to read the full article.

[VIDEO] Our 2024 New Release Season Predictions Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Feb 29, 2024

[VIDEO] Our 2024 New Release Season Predictions

New release season in the watch industry is really heating up, so we thought we’d get a sense of what our team is expecting as we head into Watches & Wonders, and a spring that’s sure to be filled with high profile new watches from brands of all sizes. Maybe it’s a bit of wishcasting, but Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan have similar ideas around the industry getting weird, or at least moving away from some of the predictably crowd pleasing watches we’ve seen dominate the space over the last several years. An entire generation of collectors is maturing, and it follows that they’ll be looking for new watches outside what we’d consider the run of the mill. Is this the year brands respond with accessible craft, new complications, and raw creativity? We hope so!  Are stone dials coming back? This onyx dial from Fears and Collective just dropped last week. Meanwhile, Kyle Snarr is convinced that this is the year of the pink watch. He might be onto something – we’ve already seen a high profile pink dial from Grand Seiko, and we swear this was shot before that release was made known to us. We’ll also be tracking Nina Flanders’s prediction that brands will turn to uncommon materials to garner attention in 2024. Recent releases from Girard-Perregaux and Fears would seem to indicate she might be on the right track.  We want to know what you think: let us know in the comments what you’re expecting brands to headline with as new release season gains steam.  The post ...

Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet ref 5516 which was Feb 27, 2024

Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today

As we approach the leap day of February 29, the unofficial day of commemoration for perpetual calendar owners, it’s worth considering the technical advances in perpetual calendar movements of the past 20 years. The perpetual calendar is, and has always been, a staple of haute horlogerie. But for most of its history, the technology remained largely stagnant. It wasn’t until the beginning of the modern era, in the 1980s when Swiss watchmaking was regrouping after the Quartz Crisis, that a new generation of watchmakers revisited this complication in earnest. In particular, they sought to address fundamental weaknesses in the way traditional perpetual calendar designs switch from one date to the next. The quintessential perpetual calendar layout, here in the first serially-produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with a leap year indicator, the Audemars Piguet ref. 5516, which was produced in the late 1950s One of the more recent – and most notable – efforts at reimagining the complication came from Stephen McDonnell, who developed the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual. According to Mr McDonnell, the traditional approach to the perpetual calendar was a flawed premise. “For decades in the Swiss watch industry, and even until the present day, it has been accepted and expected that [perpetual calendar] watches would often be damaged by owners while trying to correct them,” explains Mr McDonnell, “This was seen simply as an unavoidable factor of [perpetual calendar] owner...

Girard-Perregaux Mixes the Contemporary and the Classic with the new Free Bridge Meteorite Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Mixes Feb 27, 2024

Girard-Perregaux Mixes the Contemporary and the Classic with the new Free Bridge Meteorite

I don’t think I would be wrong in saying that Girard-Perregaux doesn’t get much attention these days. The brand seems to pop up on the radar every so often, but - at least in the circles of obsessives I travel in - their name seems to resist coming up in discussion, and I have only very rarely seen modern GPs in the wild. That’s a shame because Girard-Perregaux continues to put out fantastic pieces and the release of the Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge Meteorite is just the latest example of how GP has continued to strike a rare balance between history and modernity. Girard-Perregaux has been around for a very long time, with its lineage (though not its name) reaching back as far as 1791. Less than a century later, Constant Girard, who would marry Marie Perregaux leading us to the now-familiar name, had developed what would become the hallmark of the brand; a symmetrical three-bridge design that would eventually lead to the creation of La Esmerelda in 1889. That pocket watch featured three beautifully finished gold bridges and was recognized with a gold medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition. Despite its distinctly 21st century look, the Bridge collection, to which the Free Bridge Meteorite belongs, is inspired by and pulls from that history - especially by that very special 19th century watch and those three gold bridges. Where La Esmerelda showed off its bridges thanks to a hunter caseback, the Free Bridge Meteorite wears its bridge (it only sports one of the ...

News – Omega Raises Over CHF 500k for Charity Orbis with 11 MoonSwatch Moonshine Gold Suitcases Monochrome
Omega Raises Over CHF 500k Feb 26, 2024

News – Omega Raises Over CHF 500k for Charity Orbis with 11 MoonSwatch Moonshine Gold Suitcases

Partnering with auctioneer Sotheby’s, Omega has recently offered for sale 11 unprecedented MoonSwatch Moonshine Gold suitcases. Surfing on these vibe of the Moonshine gold watches wasn’t the idea, however. There was a good cause behind these sales, as all of the auction proceeds are to be given to Omega’s long-term partner, Orbis International. And with […]

REVIEW: Hands On With The Piaget Polo Date WatchAdvice
Piaget Polo Date Feb 26, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Piaget Polo Date

In my latest review, I tackle a brand that deserves more appreciation than it currently gets. But does the watch warrant the price tag? Let’s find out What We Love A ‘less is more’ design packed with fantastic detail Thin, wearable and versatile, even at 42mm Comfortable rubber strap What We Don’t The price point isn’t outside of reality, but it’s still steep Significant dead zone on the crown when winding or time-setting Is the double-security clasp really necessary? Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 When I initially joined WatchAdvice, I met with Chamath and Matt over breakfast to discuss what the company was all about. From what I remember, an extract of that talk went about as follows: Chamath: It would be awesome if you could write a review! Name a watch brand, and I’ll happily try to secure something for you to review! Me: MB&F;! Chamath: Um… Try again, maybe? To be honest, totally understandable. If I were in Chamath’s position, giving the new guy access to an MB&F; LMP1 Evo from the jump is practically a death sentence – Leaving even the wrong piece of dust on one would probably end with me working for WatchAdvice in eternal ‘indentured servitude.’ So, I had to set my sights on more realistic opportunities. Note: I said more realistic and not lower. Even without access to the extremes of haute horlogerie, I still had a whole host of amazing brands to choose from. After thinking...

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Feb 23, 2024

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Guide

When the Zenith Chronomaster Sport won the Chronograph Prize at the 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève, the watch world’s most prestigious awards, it was emphatically something new and different: the first chronograph watch able to measure 1/10-second chronograph readings on its bezel scale. However, despite the fact that the Chronomaster Sport collection can still be considered “new” in a practical sense, its origins, both aesthetic and technical, can be traced back much further, all the way to some of the earliest horological milestones of Zenith, one of the Swiss watch world’s most honored and accomplished watchmakers and the inventor of the groundbreaking movement that animates all the Chronomaster models, including the Sport. I spoke with Zenith’s Head of Heritage, Laurence Bodenmann, to help trace the evolution of the Chronomaster Sport and its strong ties to several noteworthy models of the past.    Zenith traces its impactful watchmaking history all the way back to 1865, and an ambitious 22-year-old watchmaker named George Favre-Jacot. A contemporary of the influential Swiss artist and designer Le Corbusier, a pioneer of avant-garde architecture, Favre-Jacot adopted a similarly modernist approach to watchmaking when he founded his atelier in Le Locle in the Swiss Jura. Taking cues from American watch firms like Waltham and Elgin, which had found success by introducing mass production into the traditionally artisanal trade, Georges Favre-Jacot & Co.,...

Introducing: The New Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-A And U5S-AN - Minimalist Just Got Even More So Fratello
Unimatic Feb 20, 2024

Introducing: The New Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-A And U5S-AN - Minimalist Just Got Even More So

As Leonardo da Vinci said, “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” This famous quote is a motto that the guys at Unimatic have embraced ever since they started the brand in 2015. The Milan-based brand is known to have created a minimalist design canvas for its timepieces that works very well in multiple ways. Today, we […] Visit Introducing: The New Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-A And U5S-AN - Minimalist Just Got Even More So to read the full article.

New releases from Omega, Tissot, BA111OD and more Time+Tide
Tissot BA111OD Feb 17, 2024

New releases from Omega, Tissot, BA111OD and more

On Valentine’s Day, brands often propose new releases that could work as a his-and-hers pair, with similar styles but different sizes. For instance, this year Omega released a 20-watch Constellation collection with meteorite dials in four sizes. Another option is to introduce a single model with a compact diameter that could work for all kinds … ContinuedThe post New releases from Omega, Tissot, BA111OD and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Retro Digital Casiotron Makes a Comeback SJX Watches
Tissot PRX Digital However Feb 16, 2024

The Retro Digital Casiotron Makes a Comeback

Half a century ago, Casio unveiled the Casiotron QW02, the brand’s very first digital watch. Showing the time, month, date, and day of the week – with the calendar being “perpetual” – the Casiotron was a landmark and the ancestor of the G-Shock, one of the bestselling watches of all time. Now it has been revived Casiotron “50th Anniversary”, a limited edition that preserves the looks of the dinky original but enhanced with modern build quality and technology, including a solar-powered movement with smartphone connectivity. It is essentially a cutting-edge electronic watch in vintage dress. Initial thoughts As a Casio fan, I recognise the importance of the Casiotron, even though it is an inexpensive watch. It established the benchmark for digital electronic watches with its clean display and multi-functionality. Casio got it right by resurrecting this iconic retro design with contemporary upgrades, particularly since the 1970s styling harmonises with current preferences for integrated bracelets. The remake wisely retains the original design, right down to the fluted inner flange and applied logo. But the electronics are entirely 21st century, with the movement featuring the same solar-power module found in many modern-day Casio and G-Shock models. The Casiotron remake costs US$500, affordable in itself but pricier than Casio’s own digital offerings and also a fifth more expensive than the Tissot PRX Digital. However, the premium is justified simply because...

Grand Seiko Unveils a New, Smaller 62GS Case in Titanium Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Unveils Feb 12, 2024

Grand Seiko Unveils a New, Smaller 62GS Case in Titanium

Spring is coming early, or at least that’s what Punxsutawney Phil would have us believe. February 2 was Groundhog Day in North America. In case you don’t know (or haven’t seen the Bill Murray movie), this is the day that groundhogs around the country are coaxed from their burrows in an attempt to predict the arrival of spring weather. If the groundhog emerges to see its shadow, it will nestle back into its cozy home and winter will continue for six more weeks. Thankfully, at least for everyone pining for warmer weather, the definitive Groundhog - the aforementioned Punxsutawney Phil - predicted an early Spring. Mere days later, he has been proven right with the release of two new Spring-inspired releases by Grand Seiko. Like many Grand Seiko releases, the obvious stand-out feature of these watches are the dials. Still, before we dive into that it’s worth taking a look at the broader strokes of the SBGH341 “Sakura-Kakushi” and SBGH343 “Sakura-Wakaba.” These new releases come in a familiar 62GS case produced in Grand Seiko’s high-intensity titanium on a matching bracelet. Except, it’s not quite the case we’re used to seeing. When the 62GS case was relaunched by Grand Seiko back in 2019, it was upsized to 40mm. This new interpretation of the 62GS brings that back down to a wonderful 38mm. With their scaled-down dimensions and at just 12.9mm thick, these fall squarely into the goldilocks dimensions so many collectors seek out these days. Throw in the...

This Monday Morning, I Realized I Should Have Bought The Black-Dial Rolex Explorer II 16570 Instead Of The White One Fratello
Rolex Explorer II 16570 Instead Feb 12, 2024

This Monday Morning, I Realized I Should Have Bought The Black-Dial Rolex Explorer II 16570 Instead Of The White One

The original Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II 1655 that debuted in 1971 is probably my favorite Rolex watch of all time. I wish I’d felt the same in the mid-1980s when you could pick up an unloved “Freccione” at a huge discount. Unfortunately, I only started warming up to the Explorer II with its steel […] Visit This Monday Morning, I Realized I Should Have Bought The Black-Dial Rolex Explorer II 16570 Instead Of The White One to read the full article.

Why I Bought It: Collector Koen Simon And His IWC Reference 504 ‘Türler’ Quill & Pad
IWC Reference 504 ‘Türler’ Every Feb 11, 2024

Why I Bought It: Collector Koen Simon And His IWC Reference 504 ‘Türler’

Every day Koen Simon looks out for special watches, and a couple months ago he noticed an IWC on an online marketplace that looked rather odd because of three things: the shape of the case, the dial, and a "Türler" signature. So he investigated the history of this beautiful watch and now shares his rather personal love story with it here.

We Predicted It! Tudor Is In Formula 1 And Daniel Ricciardo Is Wearing A New Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Fratello
Tudor Feb 9, 2024

We Predicted It! Tudor Is In Formula 1 And Daniel Ricciardo Is Wearing A New Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

After test-driving two carbon fiber Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Editions” in October, we painted a picture in which Tudor was a sponsor of a Formula 1 team. You said we were nuts. Rolex was already too heavily involved, and Tudor would stick to surfers, sailors, and cyclists. But what do you know? In […] Visit We Predicted It! Tudor Is In Formula 1 And Daniel Ricciardo Is Wearing A New Tudor Black Bay Ceramic to read the full article.

#TBT The Surprisingly Wearable Seiko 6119-8083 “Dressy 62MAS” Fratello
Seiko 6119-8083 “Dressy 62MAS” Feb 8, 2024

#TBT The Surprisingly Wearable Seiko 6119-8083 “Dressy 62MAS”

This Seiko 6119-8083 sat in my safe for about four or five years. I got it fully serviced upon arrival but never really wore it. Then it popped into my mind last week when I was thinking about what watches I would nominate for the perfect vintage watch collection for €25,000… Don’t panic. I’m not […] Visit #TBT The Surprisingly Wearable Seiko 6119-8083 “Dressy 62MAS” to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Introduces The 62GS In A 38mm Size With Dials Inspired By Cherry Blossoms Fratello
Grand Seiko Introduces Feb 8, 2024

Grand Seiko Introduces The 62GS In A 38mm Size With Dials Inspired By Cherry Blossoms

I don’t know about the winter weather where you are, but here in the Netherlands, we’ve hardly had any. We usually get a few weeks with freezing temperatures and a decent amount of snow. This year, though, temperatures hardly went below zero degrees Celsius, and we’ve only had a wafer-thin layer of that white stuff. […] Visit Grand Seiko Introduces The 62GS In A 38mm Size With Dials Inspired By Cherry Blossoms to read the full article.

Orion Returns with the Sylph, Based on their Popular Hellcat Platform Worn & Wound
Feb 6, 2024

Orion Returns with the Sylph, Based on their Popular Hellcat Platform

Orion Watches has a way of making one see a simple design in new light. Take, for instance, the isometric patterned dial on their Tesseract model. Or perhaps the tonal verdency of their Calamity diver is more your speed? Throughout the Orion catalog, one gets the sense that founder Nick Harris understands that a good watchmaker doesn’t rely on old tropes, but finds ways to add an element of surprise with each wear. That’s exactly what we’re seeing with the newest collection, the Orion Sylph. Coming in three distinct styles, the Sylph plays with color and texture against the shared sunburst dial. Customers can choose from a Graphite, Burgundy, and Black Mother-of-Pearl option, each with a bit of contrast to give a unique personality to each reference. Take, for instance, the Burgundy, which features a honey-colored dial accent and second hand. Then there is the dark charm of the Graphite option, which is contrasted with a sporty orange accent. And finally, the pièce de résistance, the Black Mother-of-Pearl reference, whose dial captures light beautifully and is accented in teal.  The Sylph stands out in its price segment with stainless steel indices, setting it apart from the softer appearance of plated plastic or brass alternatives. The silver ink dial printing adds warmth and reduces harsh contrast, while the diamond-cut hands, inspired by the Calamity, feature a thinner lume strip for a harmonious design. The Sylph is adapted from the Hellcat platform. The thin ...

Fratello On Air: Enjoying Watch Collecting Without Always Buying More Watches Fratello
Feb 6, 2024

Fratello On Air: Enjoying Watch Collecting Without Always Buying More Watches

Fratello On Air returns after a one-week break. In this episode, we’re discussing a topic suggestion from one of our listeners and readers. It’s a question that likely comes into most of our minds at some point along the way. Namely, how do we enjoy watch collecting without always thinking about the next acquisition? We […] Visit Fratello On Air: Enjoying Watch Collecting Without Always Buying More Watches to read the full article.

Hot Take: Piaget Polo 79 - A Relaunch Of Yves Piaget’s Polo Watch (Live Pictures) Fratello
Piaget Polo 79 - Feb 5, 2024

Hot Take: Piaget Polo 79 - A Relaunch Of Yves Piaget’s Polo Watch (Live Pictures)

The Piaget Polo is celebrating its 45th anniversary this year. However, while the Polo name has survived, I’ve felt that the recent models have had little in common with the first Piaget Polo from 1979. Whenever Piaget showed us a new Polo model, I thought (and probably shared my thoughts with everyone who didn’t want […] Visit Hot Take: Piaget Polo 79 - A Relaunch Of Yves Piaget’s Polo Watch (Live Pictures) to read the full article.