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Tudor Unveils The Colorful Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee” Fratello
Tudor Unveils Jun 3, 2026

Tudor Unveils The Colorful Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”

Ask Tudor fans what they would like to see from the brand, and one of the top answers would be a smaller Black Bay Chrono. Well, that wish has been granted with the new Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee.” The watch introduces a new, smaller 39mm case that is also a good bit slimmer. […] Visit Tudor Unveils The Colorful Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee” to read the full article.

Early Audemars Piguet Single-Button Chronograph Wristwatch Emerges at Christie’s Geneva SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Single-Button Chronograph Wristwatch Emerges Apr 28, 2026

Early Audemars Piguet Single-Button Chronograph Wristwatch Emerges at Christie’s Geneva

One of the highlights in Christie’s upcoming Geneva auctions taking place on May 11, 2026, is the Audemars Piguet “Coussin Tortue” single-button chronograph wristwatch, serial number 41’849. It is an exceedingly rare watch, being one of a batch of three examples that were the first ever chronograph wristwatches made by Audemars Piguet (AP). Moreover, the watch has been in the same family since new, and is consigned by a descendent of the original owner who bought the watch in 1943. Also notably is the fact that this watch has been comprehensively – but sympathetically and artfully – restored by AP. This “cushion turtle” wristwatch has a platinum case and two-tone, solid gold dial, while the movement is a LeCoultre, just like the others in the batch of three watches. The first of the three was in white gold, following by two in platinum, including this example. Interestingly, this watch was delivered to retailer Veuve Louis Goering in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1937, but only sold six years later. The tepid demand for such watches perhaps explains why, according to Christie’s, AP made a total of six single-button chronograph wristwatch movements, but the remaining three were only cased and sold over a decade after this one. Restored perfectly Besides being extremely rare and also unexpectedly beautiful, this watch stands out for having been enjoyed “extensive” restoration at Audemars Piguet. Ordinarily restoration would be frowned upon, but the watch was pre...

Revisiting The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Hands-On Review WatchAdvice
Frederique Constant Apr 27, 2026

Revisiting The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Hands-On Review

As Raymond Weil comes out of their shell, so do more incredible timepieces. But have they hit a new peak with the Freelancer Complete Calendar? Let’s find out! What We Love: An elegant and versatile design Quality-of-life upgrades to a classic complication Excellent value proposition with few competitors What We Don’t: Movement finishing somewhat lacklustre The calendar is hard to see from a distance Do we need the lume? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This article was originally published as Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet?  There’s a rapid surge happening in watchmaking right now. No, I’m not talking about the newly imposed 39% U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches (though that’s a story in itself), but rather the quiet re-emergence of the middle market. As household names climb further upmarket, a new wave of brands are pushing harder than ever, flexing their creative and horological muscles to prove what they’re truly capable of. Christopher Ward is one; Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix are others. But perhaps the most impressive contender in this power shift is none other than Raymond Weil. Nearly 50 years young, the family-owned independent has been quietly racking up achievements and accolades. Their breakout moment came with the GPHG-winning Millésime collection, followed by ambitious world timers and flyback chronographs — complications that once f...

Opinion: What “Fair Pricing” Actually Means at Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Apr 27, 2026

Opinion: What “Fair Pricing” Actually Means at Watches & Wonders

Few watch industry traditions are more sacred than the yearly dance during Watches & Wonders between shiny new novelties in Switzerland and comments from observers back home about pricing being out of control. Every year, without fail, new watches are announced in the dead of night on the east coast, and before anyone in the United States could conceivably have access to the new pieces, the commentary comes through loud and clear: they want how much for that?  Look, I get it, I really do. As a collector, I’m priced out of a lot of watches that I wouldn’t have been even a year or two ago. Things are getting crazy, and fast. But you’d think based solely on the online discourse that there isn’t a single watch priced fairly anymore. I really don’t think that’s the case.  When I say “priced fairly” I want to be clear that I don’t mean any given watch is necessarily affordable to me, or anyone else. But that, in the scheme of things, and thinking about what you’re actually getting for your money at this current moment in time, certain watches are retailing right about where they should be, or at least at a level that aligns with what the watch is offering. And “fair” can mean a bunch of different things when we’re talking about retail pricing. Things like finishing, the positioning of a brand compared to their competition (and how watches are positioned within a brand’s collection), as well as production scale and the health of the brand itself all ...

SJX Podcast: Affordable New Releases SJX Watches
Christopher Ward which just launched Mar 24, 2026

SJX Podcast: Affordable New Releases

Seiko is on something of a resurgence, aiming to take back its reputation as a value leader after the emergence, over the past decade, of increasingly competitive micro-brands. On episode 33 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss the King Seiko Vanac, now available in titanium, and the Marinemaster, which has been transformed through a number of incremental upgrades. The discussion then turns to some other affordable new releases from Orient Star, Raketa, and Christopher Ward, which just launched an in-house ‘flyer’ GMT calibre with a five-day power reserve. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Unimatic Releases The Modello Cinque UT5-TANC Created With Nigel Cabourn and The Armoury Fratello
Unimatic Mar 7, 2026

Unimatic Releases The Modello Cinque UT5-TANC Created With Nigel Cabourn and The Armoury

Unimatic has been dropping one new release after another in 2026. While the year is only two months old, we have already seen quite a few interesting watches from the Italian brand. Its latest collaborative effort sees Unimatic partnering with fashion brand Nigel Cabourn and exclusive retailer The Armoury. This is the second collaboration between […] Visit Unimatic Releases The Modello Cinque UT5-TANC Created With Nigel Cabourn and The Armoury to read the full article.

Hands On With The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 “Summer Diamonds” WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 “Summer Jan 2, 2026

Hands On With The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 “Summer Diamonds”

Ladies, if you are after a great-looking summer watch, then the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 in the 36mm size or as we have dubbed, the “Summer Diamonds”, is a classy and sporty choice! What We Love The sporty look and colour combination Great size for smaller wrists The textured, gradient dial What We Don’t The 36mm may start to be on the larger side for some ladies It lacks full versatility across all dress situations In winter, the style may not be as suited to wear as in the summer months Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 The TAG Heuer Aquaracer has always occupied an important space in modern watchmaking. It’s the collection that quietly does the heavy lifting for the brand — a true sports watch that balances durability, design, and everyday practicality. In recent years, however, TAG Heuer has become far more deliberate in how it approaches case sizing, wearability, and who these watches are really for. We saw this with the release of the new Aquareacer Professional models in 2024 with redesigned case proportions, new three-dimensional dials, and a new movement that was developed by AMT for TAG Heuer – the TH31-00. But the brand has been pushing into the ladies’ territory of late, with new models that are shrunk down for smaller wrist sizes and some more feminine touches, such as the Aquaracer Professional Solargraph in a pink dial, diamonds and a 34mm case size. This was one ...

Breguet Reimagines the Classic Répétition Minutes SJX Watches
Breguet Reimagines Dec 1, 2025

Breguet Reimagines the Classic Répétition Minutes

Along with the flagship Classique Grande Sonnerie Métiers d’Art 1905 pocket watch, Breguet just announced its first water-resistant minute repeater, the Classique Répétition Minutes 7365. While this 250th anniversary edition with a Breguet gold case and Bleu de France grand feu enamel dial is limited to 25 examples, it likely represents the future of the brand’s chiming watches: smaller and more robust. Initial Thoughts Despite the strong popularity chiming watches have seen at the high end for many years, it has felt like something of a weak point for Breguet, reliant on rather old movements that didn’t always sound the best. The ambitious and wild Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087 promised to fix this in 2018, but for unknown reasons that watch never made it to market. However, acoustically Breguet’s repeaters have become quite good despite the old bones, proving how key gongs and case construction are to repeaters. The 7087 doubles down on this approach, not even introducing a silent centrifugal governor which has become ubiquitous in modern chiming watches, even at the high end – the sound of which I’ve come to find quaint. The move to smaller sizes, 42 mm to 39 might be more dictated by market trends rather than any specific vision from the brand, but is one I appreciate either way, and while water resistance isn’t strictly necessary in a chiming watch, the peace of mind is reassuring. In the end, this watch comes down to how much you lik...

Aubert Ramel Debuts with the Ouréa SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Oct 31, 2025

Aubert Ramel Debuts with the Ouréa

While Aubert and Ramel is a new brand, and the Ouréa is a new watch, Thomas Aubert and Alexis Ramel-Sartori aren’t new to independent watchmaking, both having worked for a prominent name in the space. That experience is evident in a strong – and decidedly on-trend – debut that stands out even in a crowded market. Initial Thoughts It seems there are many finely decorated time-only watches on the market today; the two contributed to some of the better ones in their earlier careers. Now the pair strike out under their own name, and unsurprisingly, their first watch is quite good. Though the duo seem to know that already, as they have priced it close to, just a little below, leading independents. The Ouréa’s “scraped” dial brings to mind the wildly successful Chronomètre Artisans from Simon Brette. That probably isn’t coincidental, as the two both worked for Simon Brette. However, I perceive an even stronger, and more general, influence of Greubel Forsey in the Ouréa. It also calls back to Thomas Aubert’s Séléné, winner of last year’s F.P. Journe young talent competition. The scintillating teal accents, applied by atomic layer deposition, are a nice touch to set the watch apart, and the hands are incredibly well made. Interestingly, the filling in the hands is white lacquer rather than luminous material. That seems like a missed opportunity as the appearance would be nearly identical if it were lumed. It is also a shame that Mr Aubert’s recoiling sho...

SJX Podcast: The Titanium Episode SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Oct 20, 2025

SJX Podcast: The Titanium Episode

On Episode 15 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon shares insights picked up at Citizen’s Super Titanium event in Paris, where he had the opportunity to speak with the brand’s materials engineer. Still on the theme of titanium, SJX shares his views on the new Cartier Santos in the lightweight metal, and the different strategies of these brands which are playing to their respective strengths. Another big story from this week is the launch of the new Petermann Bédat Reference 1825. Though it’s not made of titanium, it’s a strong third act (and a hint of what’s next) for the brand. Is there still white space in the market for highly finished time-only watches? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: The Icons Compared Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Oct 2, 2025

Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: The Icons Compared

If you're relatively new to the watch collecting game and are ready to graduate to your first Omega watch, you're probably pondering a question that has confronted many others before you: Speedmaster or Seamaster? Spaceworthy historical chronograph or tough but stylish diver? Buzz Aldrin or Jacques Cousteau? The official watch of NASA or the official watch of James Bond? Both of these megapopular Omega watches have rich, amazing stories to tell and both today offer a plethora of options in terms of colorways, materials, and even added complications - all while still remaining true to their heritage. In this feature, we compare and contrast the Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster in the pursuit of helping prospective buyers make a (hopefully) more informed decision on their first - or next - Omega watch.  Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: Far From Their Roots In terms of seniority as a product family, the Omega Seamaster has almost a decade on its chronograph sibling. The Seamaster as we know it today is one of the most iconic of dive watches, but in 1948, when Omega introduced the first model by that name, the “dive watch” as we know it in the modern sense didn’t really exist. The original Omega Seamaster was positioned in contemporary advertisements as a watch for “town, sea, and country” - a dress watch for gentlemen that was distinguished from its many competitors by its adoption of a new waterproofing system that Omega had developed for the watches it produ...

Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs Fratello
Sep 22, 2025

Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs

Many modern chronographs strive to strike a balance between vintage appeal and modern build quality. Few of those efforts result in a package as appealing as the Hanhart 415 ES Panda chronographs. These models revisit a 1960s design while delivering features expected in a contemporary tool watch. I had the chance to go hands-on with […] Visit Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs to read the full article.

15 Affordable Luxury Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 17, 2025

15 Affordable Luxury Watches

Before I get into all the watch roundup goodness, I would like to begin this article with a concession: the term “affordable luxury” is somewhat of an oxymoron, a phrase inherently ripe with contradictions, beyond the scope of just watches. Getting that out of the way, moving forward, I am choosing to interpret the term as watches that punch above their weight class in terms of their looks, utility, and price point. The watches I’ve chosen range greatly in style and functionality, but the connecting thread among the pack is that they all deliver quality at what I would consider a reasonable price, especially given the often eye-boggling price tags that are so common in this hobby.  One more concession: the very word “affordable” is extremely subjective. The difference in what one person deems affordable compared to another can be a cavernous gap with varying numbers of digits. To get personal for a brief moment, what is most comfortably affordable to me with my purchasing power is finding deals on second-hand, vintage mechanical watches on eBay, most often around or below the $100 mark. But because that method of watch shopping is full of risk (I always prepare myself that what I’ve purchased might very well not even keep time anymore), my roundup is focused exclusively on contemporary watches that you can buy from reputable retailers (us, perhaps?) or from the brand directly, often complete with reasonable warranties and receipts. So, enough yammering from yo...

Audemars Piguet Scales Down the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Scales Down Sep 13, 2025

Audemars Piguet Scales Down the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

Audemars Piguet (AP) shrinks its innovative new perpetual calendar movement, reflecting the industry-wide shift towards more compact sizing. The scaled-down model arrives in two models to start: the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 38 mm ref. 26684 loses the controversial week-of-the-year indicator, while the Code 11:59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 38 mm ref. 26441 retains the pointer. Notably, the marketing for the new 38 mm models implies a more feminine target audience, but the appeal of a mid-sized Royal Oak perpetual transcends gender. Initial Thoughts The march towards smaller sizes continues. Regardless of the client’s gender, it helps that Audemars Piguet has a real winner here, with a user-friendly movement that is also extremely technically interesting, contained inside the iconic and very well built Royal Oak case. Pricing is relatively reasonable as well – US$110,000 in stainless steel hardly screams “good deal” but is fair against the wider market. The absence of a 52-week scale on the Royal Oak 38 mm models is necessitated by the narrower dial and differentiates the 38 mm from the 41 mm. Many will welcome this change given the niche nature of a week indicator, though the result is arguably less distinct from the many other sub-dial-centric perpetual calendars on the market. Also, a matching 38 mm and 41 mm pair in the same colourway would be cute, and a missed opportunity. Compact Case At 38 mm, this is the smallest Royal Oak perpetual calen...

First Look – The Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph, A Warm New Face for Minerva’s Reversed Marvel Monochrome
Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Jul 25, 2025

First Look – The Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph, A Warm New Face for Minerva’s Reversed Marvel

Minerva, founded as H. & C. Robert in 1858 in the Swiss Jura village of Villeret and renamed Minerva SA in 1929, remains one of the great guardians of traditional chronograph craftsmanship. Its first chronograph movement, the Calibre 19-9, debuted in 1908, and for over 165 years, its workshops have produced some of the finest […]

Hands-On With The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure - California-Made Classicism Fratello
Jul 7, 2025

Hands-On With The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure - California-Made Classicism

Los Angeles-based brand J.N. Shapiro Watches has achieved a somewhat mythical status since Josh Shapiro founded it in 2018. The watches are elusive and exclusive creations that dent your budget and test your patience. What if you don’t have US$75,000 to spend and/or lack the mental stamina to wait around three years for your watch? […] Visit Hands-On With The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure - California-Made Classicism to read the full article.