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Louis Brandt

La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker who founded the firm that became Omega in 1848.

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Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Review: Breaking Down the 20th Anniversar Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Jan 27, 2026

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Review: Breaking Down the 20th Anniversar

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean has represented a sweet spot in the now-sprawling Seamaster collection, a rarely achieved intersection between extra-rugged build and unapologetically luxurious design. The latest revamp of the two-decade-old series, which launched in late 2025, doubles down on both while also striving for new levels of comfort and wearability. Here’s a closer look, starting at the beginning.  [toc-section heading="Origins of the Seamaster Collection"] Omega began making watches in 1848 (originally as La Genérale Watch Co.) and for its milestone 100th anniversary, a few years after the end of World War II, the brand founded by watchmaker Louis Brandt launched the first watch by the name of Seamaster. Not really a “dive watch” as we’d define that term today, it was marketed as a watch for “town, sea, and country”  - i.e., a gentleman’s dress watch that just happened to be more waterproof than any other such timepiece of that era. (Omega had been dabbling in making wristwatches water resistant for more than a decade at that point, having released the Marine, below, an early divers’ watch with a sealed, rectangular double-case design, as early as 1932.) What distinguished the Seamaster from its contemporaries was its adoption of an innovative, O-ring-gasket device that sealed the crown into the case to prevent moisture from entering.  Omega had developed that design for the tool watches it made for the British armed forces during wartime,...

Omega Co-Axial Movement Explained: A Radical Invention Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Dec 7, 2025

Omega Co-Axial Movement Explained: A Radical Invention

What is a Co-Axial Movement? More specifically, what is the now-famous Co-Axial Escapement that has become a standard feature on most all Omega watches? In short, it's both a radical concept by one of the modern era's most revered watchmaking geniuses and the culmination of a Swiss watch brand's longtime dedication to improving watchmaking accuracy. Here is the story of Omega's co-axial movements.  [toc-section heading="Early Omega Movements"]  While it is best known these days for its signature watch models, like the Speedmaster “Moonwatch” and the James Bond-worn Seamaster, Omega has also been a pioneer in movement-making since nearly the beginning. The company was founded in 1848 by 23-year-old watchmaker Louis Brandt (with family, above) in the Swiss village of La Chaux-de-Fonds. Originally called La Genérale Watch Company, and eventually renamed Louis Brandt et Fils after Brandt’s sons joined the business, it originally produced key-wound pocket watches from parts supplied by local artisans, After the growing company moved from La Chaux-de-Fonds to the more bustling town of Bienne, in the Swiss Canton of Bern, it pioneered a series of industrial watchmaking techniques and also began making its own in-house movements. The first one, called the Labrador, launched in 1885 in a now-legendary series of pocket watches. Nearly a decade later, in 1894, came the company’s chef d’oeuvre, the 19-ligne Omega Caliber, which was notable at the time for its enviable acc...

Annual Calendar Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 26, 2024

Annual Calendar Watches Guide

Annual calendar watches have been on the scene for a while now, though they remain a somewhat niche area of horological interest - not as revered as lofty complications like the perpetual calendar and minute repeater but also not as obsessed over as more down-to-earth mechanisms like chronographs and GMTs. And yet, the annual calendar offers not only one of the most practical functions for an everyday wearer, but has also proven to be a canvas for some truly engaging designs. As per its name, an annual calendar displays the day, date, and month and need only be manually adjusted by its wearer once per year, at the end of February. Patek Philippe's Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar introduced in 2023 Most of the wristwatch complications we’re familiar with are relatively ancient in origin, and almost all of them old enough to have debuted in pocketwatches rather than wristwatches. The first wristwatch chronograph, made by Longines, appeared in 1913; the first minute repeater for the wrist goes all the way back to 1892, invented by Louis Brandt, founder of Omega; and the first wrist-borne perpetual calendar made its debut in 1925, engineered by none other than Patek Philippe, which had actually invented the compact-sized movement for it as early as 1889, using it at the time in a ladies’ pendant watch. The annual calendar, by contrast, even though it might seem to today’s enthusiasts to be a fixture among luxury watch complications, is much younger, tracing its origin st...

Omega Constellation Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Oct 9, 2023

Omega Constellation Guide

The Omega Constellation is not only the Swiss luxury brand’s oldest collection (if we’re tracing the Seamaster back to its first “Professional” dive-watch model in 1957); it’s also the dressiest, with a design heritage that hinges on two classic and very iconoclastic watches from two distinctively different eras: the cult-classic original from the 1950s and the influential revamp in the 1980s. Here’s an in-depth look at the Omega Constellation, its half-century-plus of revolutionary design, and what the collection looks like today. 1952: Making a Pie Omega, founded in 1848 by an ambitious young Swiss watchmaker named Louis Brandt, celebrated its 100th anniversary in the postwar year of 1948. The most memorable watch the company released during that milestone year, most would agree, was the first Seamaster, which introduced the innovative waterproof system that would give rise to today’s sprawling Seamaster Professional collection of dive watches. A rarer and more obscure timepiece introduced that year was the Centenary, Omega’s first chronometer-certified wristwatch. An iconoclastic gold dress watch, highly limited in production, the Centenary took its name from the 100-year anniversary it commemorated and its design would provide the template of a collection that would debut several years later, in 1952, called the Constellation. (Both the Seamaster and the Centenary, incidentally, were the brainchildren of watch designer René Bannwart, who would go on to...

Buy-In Required: Non-Watch Brands That Stand Tall - Hermès, Louis Vuitton, And Chanel Fratello
Louis Vuitton Mar 5, 2024

Buy-In Required: Non-Watch Brands That Stand Tall - Hermès, Louis Vuitton, And Chanel

Some people just can’t get enough. Enough of the right logo, that is. “Logo luxury” is still very much alive, no matter the attention “quiet luxury” received recently. Logos have a hypnotic allure to some people. People under the spell of the right monogram will want to buy into the brand badly, desiring everything with […] Visit Buy-In Required: Non-Watch Brands That Stand Tall - Hermès, Louis Vuitton, And Chanel to read the full article.

The Louis Vuitton Tambour book is like an in-depth biography of the brand’s favourite model Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour book Dec 20, 2022

The Louis Vuitton Tambour book is like an in-depth biography of the brand’s favourite model

You’re probably familiar with the concept of “dog years”.  This is the idea that dogs age at approximately seven times the rate of humans and so we should consider their relative ages in this way. Whereas a seven-year-boy might still be fascinated by cartoons, whoopee cushions and nerf guns, a dog that is seven (in … ContinuedThe post The Louis Vuitton Tambour book is like an in-depth biography of the brand’s favourite model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Distinctive design with the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt One Dec 15, 2019

VIDEO: Distinctive design with the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt

One of the most appealing elements of a Louis Vuitton watch is just how unabashedly bold they are in their design, as well as their wrist presence. The new Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt is an excellent example, with its amply portioned 46mm stainless steel case, vivid dial graphics and branded rubber strap. The dial … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Distinctive design with the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard Partners with Brilliant Earth on the Jeweler’s First Watch Collection Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Partners 9h ago

Louis Erard Partners with Brilliant Earth on the Jeweler’s First Watch Collection

Louis Erard has been making collaborative watches for years. In fact, you can pretty easily point to limited edition collaborations as a venture that has sustained the brand over the last several years, and made them newly relevant to a broad spectrum of enthusiasts and collectors. Their collaborations tend to follow a familiar, tried and true format. For the most part, they work with established, often higher end, independent watchmakers, and graft the design signatures of those watchmakers onto various Louis Erard platforms, most often their Regulator. The list of collaborators at this point is extensive, with names like Chaykin, Kudoke, and Vianney Halter contributing to Louis Erard’s ongoing project. Their latest, though, is a little different. The Solstice Collection, a line unveiled last month with Brilliant Earth, represents a new approach, and takes Louis Erard’s name off the dial entirely.  Brilliant Earth is a jewelry brand founded in 2005 that has gained traction for their commitment to transparency in the sourcing of their precious metals and stones. Their public face is one focused on sustainability, and are known to use recycled precious metals as well as lab grown diamonds in their engagement rings and other jewelry. The Solstice Collection represents their first watch line.  The Solstice Collection consists of two watches, Summer and Winter. They are built on Louis Erard’s La Petite Seconde platform, and feature 39mm stainless steel cases and run on...

Introducing - The Impressive, Complex Louis Vuitton Escale en Alaska Pocket Watch Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Escale en Alaska Pocket Jul 21, 2026

Introducing - The Impressive, Complex Louis Vuitton Escale en Alaska Pocket Watch

Travel has always been at the heart of Louis Vuitton, and the Escales Autour du Monde collection, like all Escale watches, has a great poetic sound to it. The name, which translates as “Stopovers Around the World,” recalls Francisca Mattéoli’s celebrated book documenting Gaston-Louis Vuitton’s remarkable collection of hotel labels gathered during his travels; there’s […]

Northern Exposure: Louis Vuitton’s Escale en Alaska SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s Escale en Alaska Jul 9, 2026

Northern Exposure: Louis Vuitton’s Escale en Alaska

Louis Vuitton (LV) has taken the covers off its latest unique Escale Autour du Monde pocket watch — the Escale en Alaska is the most complicated Escale pocket watch yet, including both a minute repeater and a tourbillon along with nine dial-side animations. Initial thoughts Possibly more than any other so-called ‘fashion brand’, LV excels in creativity and world-building, which has only become more stylish, whimsical and nuanced. The Escale en Alaska exemplifies this development, and demonstrates the breadth of artistic crafts practised by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Translating as ‘Stopovers Around the World’, the Escale Autour du Monde collection embodies the expressive flair of a leading fashion house — something many traditional watch brands simply can’t match. Following LV’s previous Escale pocket watches celebrating the beauty of Mount Fuji and the Pont-Neuf in Paris, the brand’s latest creation has looked north for inspiration, this time celebrating the desolate beauty of Alaskan glaciers and their exotic inhabitants. Arctic artistry The term ‘fashion watch’ is often used pejoratively to describe a watch with no real watchmaking value that trades solely off the fashion name, but watches like Escale en Alaska transcend this categorisation. The Escale Autour du Monde is a double-sided pocket watch with animated jacquemarts on one side and an exposed movement with an inverted hand stack on the other. The latter is unchanged from that of previous e...

Introducing: Louis Vuitton Unity Time Object Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Unity Time Object What May 26, 2026

Introducing: Louis Vuitton Unity Time Object

What We Know For the last ten years, Louis Vuitton has worked with UNICEF, the United Nations Children's Fund, to support humanitarian and developmental aid for children worldwide. To mark the tenth anniversary of the partnership, the house is releasing a one-of-a-kind time object—a soccer ball reimagined as a clock—to be auctioned exclusively at Sotheby's from June 9 to 18, with the hammer price going directly to UNICEF. The piece brings together La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the Swiss movement maker L'Épée 1839, and the house's trunkmaking heritage, all in the shape of a soccer ball, timed perfectly ahead of this year's World Cup. With Louis Vuitton's F1 partnership now in its second year, the brand has been planting its flag deeper in the world of sport. Having a soccer ball serve as the vessel for this milestone feels like a natural extension of that direction, and there's something fitting about the spherical choice of form to commemorate this occasion. At the center of the piece, time is told through a sculpted golden steel dome that forms the upper half of the clock. Two rotating cylinders handle the work: one tracks the hours, the other the minutes. The minute track is engraved with Louis Vuitton's Monogram motif and flowers, and the top of the cylinder carries the "Louis Vuitton Paris" signature. Moving outward, the hour and minute apertures are rimmed with diamonds—144 white for the hours, 120 black for the minutes, totaling 1.03 carats. Inside, L'...

First Look - Louis Erard’s Integrated Sports Watch, the 2340, now in Mauve and Forest Monochrome
Louis Erard s Integrated Sports Watch May 26, 2026

First Look - Louis Erard’s Integrated Sports Watch, the 2340, now in Mauve and Forest

Last year, Louis Erard entered the integrated sports watch segment with the 2340 collection, a sharply designed and relatively accessible proposition built in titanium and steel, with a nicely executed integrated bracelet. Named after the postal code of Le Noirmont, the brand’s home in the Swiss Jura, the 2340 marked a departure from the regulator […]

First Look - A Fusion of History and Modernity, the Louis Moinet 1816 Tourbillon Chronograph Monochrome
Louis Moinet 1816 Tourbillon Chronograph Louis May 8, 2026

First Look - A Fusion of History and Modernity, the Louis Moinet 1816 Tourbillon Chronograph

Louis Moinet (1768-1853) wanted an accurate instrument to track celestial motions and built the Compteur de Tierces in 1815-1816. Endowed with a start, stop and reset function and a balance wheel beating at an impressive high frequency of 30Hz, his novel stopwatch could time events to the 60th of a second. Considered one of the precursors […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Fratello
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Another May 8, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

Another Friday, another list. This week, we search for the best alternatives to the classic Cartier Tank Louis Cartier. This industry icon dates back to 1922 and has become one of the most imitated watches in the world. That’s more than enough reason to look at a list of five alternatives that didn’t just copy […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier to read the full article.

The Louis Erard Le Régulateur Esprit Flinqué in Grey - a Worn & Wound Collaboration, Revisited Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Le Régulateur Esprit Flinqué Apr 22, 2026

The Louis Erard Le Régulateur Esprit Flinqué in Grey - a Worn & Wound Collaboration, Revisited

Late last year, we launched one of the most ambitious limited edition collaborations we’ve ever undertaken: the Louis Erard x Worn & Wound Le Régulateur. Developed over the course of three years, the project began with a concept from our side that pushed beyond anything we had done before. Realizing that vision required extensive R&D; to bring it to life at the highest possible standard, but the result was something truly distinct. Our goal with collaborations is always to create something unique, something special, and in this case, the outcome was a watch that stood apart from anything else. Layered, elaborate, provocative, and even a touch challenging, it’s a design that holds its own in even the most esoteric collections. the Worn & Wound x Louis Erard collaboration from 2025 Because the design itself was so original, and the execution so involved, it felt unfortunate for its life to be limited to just the 99 blue models of the initial release. During development, Louis Erard explored several alternate dial colors, some of them quite unconventional. While the design translated surprisingly well across these variations, there was something compelling about the restraint of the grey version that ultimately set it apart. Yes, grey and black are often the safe choices, but here, the result feels anything but typical. Zach Weiss’ Design from the 2022 pitch deck Now known as the “Le Régulateur Esprit Flinqué,” the design set out to rethink the regulator display w...

First Look - The New Louis Erard Regulator Esprit Flinqué Monochrome
Louis Erard Regulator Esprit Flinqué When Apr 20, 2026

First Look - The New Louis Erard Regulator Esprit Flinqué

When Manuel Emch took the reins at Louis Erard, he set out to prove that métiers d’art and creative collaborations are not the exclusive domain of high-end brands. Now a vibrant hub of creativity, Louis Erard has partnered with independent watchmakers and artists to produce original content. Consolidating Emch’s mission to democratise and reinterpret traditional […]

New: Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein - two additional references Deployant
Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein – Apr 7, 2026

New: Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein - two additional references

Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein continue one of modern watchmaking’s most distinctive collaborations with the Smile‑Day Blue and the Tourbillon Régulateur Blue. These two new models open the brand’s newly introduced Hall of Fame collection and reaffirm a shared philosophy that blends technical seriousness with joy, color, and personality.

Louis Vuitton’s Arty Automata is Psychedelic Metiers d’Art SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s Arty Automata Apr 6, 2026

Louis Vuitton’s Arty Automata is Psychedelic Metiers d’Art

The Tambour Taiko Arty Automata is the latest creation from Louis Vuitton to feature jacquemart, or mechanical animations. Like the Tambour Opera before it, the Arty Automata features a complex, multi-layer dial with multiple mechanisms that whir into motion at the press of a button, including spinning hearts and a swivelling eyeball. But this also incorporates a flying tourbillon at six, while the dial itself is grand feu enamel – and tiny bird feathers for the eyelashes. Initial thoughts The flamboyant, psychedelic Arty Automata is definitely not for everyone, but the mechanical and artisanal credentials of the watch are impressive (save for one detail, more on that later). To start with, the Arty Automata is a more manageable 42 mm by 13.6 mm, compared to earlier automata models that were several millimetres larger. Combined with the form of the new Tambour Taiko case, this makes the Art Automata more wearable than its predecessors. More than ergonomics, the scaled down case also underlines the movement development prowess of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). The attention to detail in terms of the movement also shows in its aesthetics: the calibre adopts the house style of LFT with its relief bridges, but adopted to the “Arty” aesthetic with stars, clouds, and a lacquered rotor. That said, the Etachron-type regulator index for the balance is definitely out of place in a watch of this price. The watch also illustrates the capabilities of the metiers d’art workshop in ...

Video - How Does it Work? The Sympathique Clock of the Louis Vuitton x De Bethune Explained by Denis Flageollet Monochrome
Louis Vuitton x De Bethune Explained Mar 27, 2026

Video - How Does it Work? The Sympathique Clock of the Louis Vuitton x De Bethune Explained by Denis Flageollet

As you might remember, Louis Vuitton and De Bethune recently introduced the third chapter in LV’s ongoing journey through independent watchmaking, the LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project, following the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie made with Rexhep Rexhepi, founder of Atelier Akrivia, and the LVKV-02 GMR 6 made with Finnish-born watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. While we were expecting to […]

Hazemann & Monnin Wins 2026 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Today Mar 25, 2026

Hazemann & Monnin Wins 2026 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize

Today in Paris a panel of five judges – including Carole Forestier-Kasapi and Kari Voutilainen – presented Alexandre Hazemann and Victor Monnin with the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. The very same young watchmakers who won the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition in 2023, the pair clinched the prize for their jump-hour “School Watch”. Launched in 2023 by Jean Arnault, who has spearheaded Louis Vuitton’s fine watchmaking ambitions, the initiative supports promising independent watchmakers while burnishing the maison’s credibility in the watch world. Last year the trophy – and its matching Louis Vuitton trunk – went to Raul Pages for his RP1 Régulateur à Détente. This edition’s victors met at Lycée Edgar Faure, a technical high school in Morteau, France, which is well known for its strong and respected watch and jewellery bent. Their aptly named School Watch developed from the pair’s school watch project. They have since set up shop in Saint-Aubin-Sauges, Switzerland, though both will now have the option of a one-year apprenticeship at Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps manufacture in Geneva, in addition to financial support. In December, a Committee culled the 20 semifinalists, which we covered here, down to just five in December and appointed a five-person panel to select the winner. Other finalists included Norifumi Seki, who debuted the ambitious Fading Hours alarm watch, and Bernhard Lederer. Carole Forestier-Kasapi pr...