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Santos Cartier

The 1904 Cartier watch designed for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.

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Cartier’s Santos-Dumont Gains a Fine Mesh-Link Bracelet SJX Watches
Cartier s Santos-Dumont Gains Apr 13, 2026

Cartier’s Santos-Dumont Gains a Fine Mesh-Link Bracelet

Cartier’s debuts at Watches & Wonders 2026 include notable crowd pleasers, with a standout being the Santos-Dumont LM with a mesh-link bracelet in matching precious metal. Inspired by watch bracelets of the 1920s, the new bracelet is 15 links across with each link just 1.15 mm high, making it supple and ergonomic. Very much catering to fad for such bracelets, it is also removable and sports a double-folding clasp. The new Santos-Dumont models themselves are cosmetic variations of the existing model, with the most unusual being the yellow gold version with a dial of obsidian, which is volanic glass. Initial thoughts The new Santos-Dumont pairs the familiar square watch with an appropriately retro mesh-link bracelet that fits the design perfectly. Like the Les Opus trio, this Santos-Dumont trio isn’t imaginative or novel, but it is executed well and has tactile appeal. Both the clasp and flush-fit end links that continue the link pattern are a pleasing touch. In some ways the bracelet is perhaps more fitting for the model given its history as an aviator’s watch, although the Santos-Dumont now is very much a dress watch in the modern sense of the term. The commercial success of 2023’s Tank Normale with a bracelet probably helped convince Cartier that such bracelets are a winner, despite the substantial cost of a precious metal bracelet today. That said, the new Santos-Dumont on a bracelet is pricey but not outrageously so. It starts at €44,400 in yellow gold and ris...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Thomas’s Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 Vs. Daan’s Cartier Santos Galbée XL Fratello
Cartier Santos Galbée XL Welcome Jan 25, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Thomas’s Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 Vs. Daan’s Cartier Santos Galbée XL

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown, dear Fratelli! This week’s battle is a bit different. Our fearless leader, RJ, served up a provocative proposition during our last editorial meeting: “Why don’t we do a battle between two editors’ personal watches for a change?” Okay, RJ, we hear you. We’re ready and prepared. Let’s get personal! […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Thomas’s Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 Vs. Daan’s Cartier Santos Galbée XL to read the full article.

Hands-On: Two Sporty New Variants Of The Cartier Santos - One In Titanium, The Other In Steel With A Black Dial And Lume Fratello
Cartier Santos - One Oct 7, 2025

Hands-On: Two Sporty New Variants Of The Cartier Santos - One In Titanium, The Other In Steel With A Black Dial And Lume

By now, everyone is aware that the Santos de Cartier is hot stuff. Cartier has certainly realized this and keeps releasing new versions of its square all-metal sports watch. I still love my Santos Galbée XL ref. 2823. However, as a true Cartier Santos fan, I can’t get enough of all the new variations La […] Visit Hands-On: Two Sporty New Variants Of The Cartier Santos - One In Titanium, The Other In Steel With A Black Dial And Lume to read the full article.

Hands On: The Cartier Santos in End-to-End Titanium SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Oct 7, 2025

Hands On: The Cartier Santos in End-to-End Titanium

In a first, Cartier has just unveiled the Santos de Cartier LM in titanium. Its flagship sports watch now features a case and matching bracelet in matte, bead-blasted titanium – specifically grade 23 titanium – while retaining all of the other familiar Santos design elements, including the exposed screws and traditional silvered dial. The Santos in titanium is powered by the same industrial 1847 MC movement found in its steel counterpart, and costs about 20% more, but has a great deal more tactile appeal. The watch is large, lightweight, and low-key. Initial thoughts The Santos was originally conceived as a sports watch in 1904, albeit not of the sort known today. The original was an aviator’s watch, but a tiny and thin watch more comparable to a 21st century dress watch. That history, however, meant that Cartier has rolled out several sporty-ish versions of the Santos in the past. It’s surprising that it took Cartier this long to put together a Santos in titanium. The smooth, blasted case finish has a great deal of tactile appeal, and the muted, matte aesthetic is equally appealing. Some might see this as being way too similar to the steel model – the two are indistinguishable at a distance – but that is part of its appeal. Almost twins, titanium (left) with a bead-blasted finish, and steel with a brushed finish and polished bezel Though the material is different, the exterior finishing is almost identical to that of the steel model, except that the brushed fi...

Exploring Evergreens: The Cartier Santos Galbée XL Fratello
Cartier Santos Galbée XL Welcome Apr 15, 2025

Exploring Evergreens: The Cartier Santos Galbée XL

Welcome to another installment of Exploring Evergreens, a series here on Fratello in which we get our hands on watches that have been around for over a decade - or long enough to feel ubiquitous - and ask ourselves if they’ve managed to stand the test of time. We’ll address whether they’re still relevant, how […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: The Cartier Santos Galbée XL to read the full article.

Is The Cartier Santos Medium An Unexpected Rolex Oyster Perpetual Killer? Fratello
Cartier Santos Medium Apr 7, 2025

Is The Cartier Santos Medium An Unexpected Rolex Oyster Perpetual Killer?

The Cartier Santos medium represents, to me, some of the best the brand has to offer. Recently, I spent some quality time with the Santos. Here are my thoughts. Cartier is a watch brand that represents many things to many people. Like Rolex, it has developed a little baggage simply because it has been so […] Visit Is The Cartier Santos Medium An Unexpected Rolex Oyster Perpetual Killer? to read the full article.

Review: Luxury & Precision With The Cartier Santos Dual Time WatchAdvice
Cartier Santos Dual Time Mar 29, 2025

Review: Luxury & Precision With The Cartier Santos Dual Time

The Santos de Cartier Dual Time was a hit at Watches & Wonders 2024. So with one week to go until we’re back in Geneva for this year’s fair, why not review the perfect travel companion? What We Love The two-tone grey dial works incredibly well The dark grey alligator leather strap gives the watch a whole new look The versatility of the watch for different occasions What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet (Still) There could have been more contrast in the dial to aid legibility in low light Could lumed numerals make this more of a complete swatch? Overall Score: 9/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 This will be a review with a difference. Normally when one of us at Watch Advice reviews a watch, we try not to review another one that is very similar to it, rather we would opt for another team member to do it and give you their experience with it. After all, we all have different tastes in watches, dress styles and most importantly, wrist size. But, I decided to break the rules a little with this one. I reviewed the Santos de Cartier Large Brown Dial in June last year, but while I was reviewing that, I kept thinking it would be great to have reviewed the new Dual Time as well. So fast-forward almost a year later and we got our hands on the Dual Time thanks to our friends at Cartier and without giving too much away too early, I think it’s better… First Impressions The Santos dual time was one of the major rele...

My Most Worn Watch Of 2024: The Cartier Santos Galbée XL Fratello
Cartier Santos Galbée XL Honestly Jan 3, 2025

My Most Worn Watch Of 2024: The Cartier Santos Galbée XL

Honestly, I’m not sure which watch I wore the most last year. I usually choose a different watch to wear daily, so keeping track is hard. My Instagram feed is a good indicator, though. My Cartier Santos Galbée XL is probably the most featured watch on there. That’s partially because it gives me the most […] Visit My Most Worn Watch Of 2024: The Cartier Santos Galbée XL to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time Is Great In Numerous Ways Fratello
Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Dec 13, 2024

Hands-On: The Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time Is Great In Numerous Ways

Among all watches, the Cartier Santos de Cartier is my muse. My Santos Galbée XL is my favorite watch in my collection, so I’m always curious to see what new variations will debut among the novelties at Watches and Wonders. This year was particularly exciting because Cartier announced the new Santos de Cartier Dual Time […] Visit Hands-On: The Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time Is Great In Numerous Ways to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: The Cartier Santos-Dumont - Current Vs. Vintage Fratello
Cartier Santos-Dumont - Current Vs Sep 22, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: The Cartier Santos-Dumont - Current Vs. Vintage

The Cartier Santos-Dumont was one of the first wristwatches ever made. Louis Cartier designed it at the request of his friend, the Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont. He was looking for a watch he could read while flying. The Cartier Santos(-Dumont), with its signature square shape and quirky screws, is now a true icon. The Santos-Dumont […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: The Cartier Santos-Dumont - Current Vs. Vintage to read the full article.

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind SJX Watches
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Aug 6, 2024

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind

A limited edition that is classic Cartier in terms of style, the Santos-Dumont Rewind is elegant but whimsically different. The Rewind retains the exact same dimensions of the standard Santos-Dumont “Large” model, but is unique in two ways. The more obvious is the dial, which is carnelian, a brown-red mineral stone with a nuanced colour. Less obvious at first glance is the reversed hour track around the dial that complements hour and minutes hands that track anticlockwise – hence “Rewind”. Initial thoughts The Santos-Dumont Rewind captures the traditional Cartier style, but with a twist. As a result, it’s more than a standard Santos-Dumont, but not too much. Most of its defining elements are not apparent at a distance, so it’s fairly subtle. Everything is just right, and makes for a compelling watch. Although this is the Large model (rather than the Extra Large that I personally prefer), the platinum case has a good heft. The bright colour of the metal also contrasts well with the dark red carnelian dial that reveals interesting shading up close. The grain of carnelian is more subtle than the mineral stones commonly found in watches, particularly malachite and lapis lazuli. This suits the low-key complication well. As for the hands that go backwards, it takes some getting used to. The complication is clearly pointless, but appealing because it has an elegant simplicity that suits the watch. The Rewind costs US$38,400, which is fair enough for a wristwatch w...

The Cartier Santos Dumont: Minimalism To The Max? (Hands On) WatchAdvice
Cartier Santos Dumont Minimalism Jul 24, 2024

The Cartier Santos Dumont: Minimalism To The Max? (Hands On)

The Cartier Santos Dumont is a watch beautifully frozen in time – aesthetically and functionally true to the original, and it’s still as relevant as ever in 2024. What We Love Classic and timeless design Thin, elegant, and comfortable on the wrist Movement is smooth and appropriate for a dress piece What We Don’t Wears larger than anticipated (due to my small wrists) The pin buckle is finicky at times and hard to adjust A display case back would be great! Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Ah, Cartier: One of the pillars of modern watchmaking as we know it. Even though they are a High Jewellery Maison, their knowledge of horology is storied and epic, and through their achievements, sparked some of the most important innovations in the history of this beautiful art. I’ve known about Cartier and their reputation my whole life, but other than occasionally peering into their boutique and looking through the window, I always thought my opinion of them would never extend further than their occasional appearances in rom-coms, music, and other pop culture. The Cartier Santos Dumont Getting into the watch business gave me a whole new perspective on what I knew about the Parisian brand. Getting into Watch Advice also allowed me to take a massive deep dive into Cartier’s history, which naturally garnered a new respect for them. The Santos was the first ever wristwatch? How crazy is that? I won’t nerd you o...

Hands-On With The 2024 Full-Gold Cartier Santos - Big, Bold, And Gold Fratello
Cartier Santos - Big Bold Jul 9, 2024

Hands-On With The 2024 Full-Gold Cartier Santos - Big, Bold, And Gold

A golden version of the Santos de Cartier is nothing new. Following Cartier’s two-tone revamp of its previously long-dormant pilot’s watch in 1978, several full-gold versions followed before the Santos collection’s discontinuation in 2016. Then, when Cartier brought it back in 2018, it came in steel, two-tone, and full gold. There have also already been […] Visit Hands-On With The 2024 Full-Gold Cartier Santos - Big, Bold, And Gold to read the full article.

Trying Not To Get Confused Or Frustrated By The Platinum Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Fratello
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Have you May 17, 2024

Trying Not To Get Confused Or Frustrated By The Platinum Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind

Have you heard of people wearing watches without winding and/or setting them correctly? I have. And to a point, I get why they can’t be bothered to make sure the mechanical watches on their wrists display the time correctly more than twice a day. The correct time is everywhere - on your phone, in your […] Visit Trying Not To Get Confused Or Frustrated By The Platinum Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Flies in the Face of Convention Monochrome
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Flies Apr 11, 2024

Introducing – The New Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Flies in the Face of Convention

Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Brazilian aviator, and Louis Cartier shared a passion for machines and mechanics. In 1904, Louis Cartier presented Santos-Dumont with the first purpose-designed wristwatch with a solid, rounded square case and rivets on the bezel. The idea behind the watch was to allow Santos-Dumont to consult the time in the cockpit without having […]

Introducing – The Cartier Santos-Dumont Lacquered Returns in 3 New Colours Monochrome
Cartier Santos-Dumont Lacquered Returns Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The Cartier Santos-Dumont Lacquered Returns in 3 New Colours

Cartier’s longstanding affair with the intrepid Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont shows no sign of abating. Santos-Dumont’s request to Louis Cartier to create a timepiece that would let him consult the time without taking his hands off the controls resulted in the men’s first wristwatch in 1904. Characterised by sleek geometric lines, Cartier’s Santos-Dumont model has […]

Review: Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor Sep 27, 2023

Review: Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor

When we first featured at the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor right after it was unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2023, it was clear that the model had struck a chord among almost those who had the pleasure to see it in the metal. The design is distinctively Cartier in style, slightly whimsical, yet stands apart from almost everything else in the brand’s catalogue.  Cartier’s legacy as a renowned jeweller is indisputable, and this timepiece is a fusion of its knowledge in jewellery and watches, with a good dose of the traditional Cartier style. From the lacquer case inlays to the artful skeletonisation, the result is a balanced face that is entirely original.  Key takeaways The design is an ideal combination of a contemporary, tasteful skeleton movement with the historical Santos case design The plane micro-rotor is just right in size, neither too big nor too small, and adds just the right amount of whimsy without being gimmicky The large, as opposed to XL, case is ideal for the movement, but some might find it too compact As it is with all Cartier skeleton movements, the Etachron regulator feels out of place Initial thoughts I usually take a loupe to a watch for a closer look, and when I did so with the Santos skeleton the movement’s design shone through. The plates and bridges of the brand-new cal. 9629 MC are both structural and add to the aesthetic brilliance of this piece. Though Cartier has long made skeleton watches a hallmark of its line-up, the cal. 9629 M...