Hodinkee · Page 2

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre Live Pics Oct 9, 2026

Introducing: Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre (Live Pics)

What We Know Angelus has dropped the curtain on three new limited-edition watches built on the same platform as the fan-favorite (and GPHG-winning) Chronographe Télémètre, only not quite. With this trio of novelties — appropriately dubbed the Chronographe Tachymètre — Angelus has dropped the telemeter scale, replacing it with a tachymeter, and bringing with it a slightly sportier look than we've come to expect from Angelus's most compact modern offering. The new model follows up a limited-edition take on the idea of a Chronographe Télémètre released in collaboration with Monochrome Watches earlier this year. But where that watch featured a double-tracked tachymeter and a decidedly vintage aesthetic, these new watches offer a decidedly different take on the concept, leaning into the look of midcentury racing watches. Here, that means you have the same bi-register chronograph layout, but with a single-track tachymeter and subdials finished in contrasting colors. Like the Chronographe Télémètre that preceded it, the new Chronographe Tachymètre is offered in three configurations, with two of those in steel cases and the other in yellow gold. The yellow gold offering — which is limited to 15 pieces — is fitted with a yellow-gold-tone dial with green (really, a very dark grey with a greenish hue) accents. The stainless steel watches are offered with either a salmon dial with grey accents or a grey dial with blue accents. These watches come in editions of 30 an...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Oct 8, 2026

Introducing: The Sexy, Secretive Toledano & Chan Oshinobi, With Commentary From Phil Toledano

This story has been republished from our friends at Hodinkee Australia. What We Know Toledano & Chan, the horological design collaboration between artist and collector Phil Toledano and watch designer Alfred Chan, is back with their latest brutalist architecture-inspired watch, the Oshinobi. This one throws a new concept into the mix: concealment. O-shinobi is a Japanese term used to describe a person of high rank traveling incognito, which should give you a hint at how this Toledano & Chan watch works. It’s a secret watch, fitted with a horizontally sliding cover that reveals an organically shaped and concave dial set with two carats of snow-set diamonds. To fly even further under the radar, the crown is hidden, accessible from the underside of the case at 12 o’clock. The inspiration for the Oshinobi's dial and crystal shape also comes from this idea of concealment, inspired by natural geodes that look like any other rock until they’re cracked open to reveal a world of crystals festooning the inside. The result is this architecturally aggressive bracelet shape that hides an organically shaped, irregularly diamond-studded secret inside. Phil, Jamie, and I sat down over the weekend to talk about the Oshinobi, and he tells me that he’s long been fascinated with vintage secret watches that conceal their dials. Hearing conversations in the watch community about safety concerns about traversing cities with flashy watches, he sees the Oshinobi as the antidote. Phil Toled...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Oct 8, 2026

Introducing: Arsène Lippens Patches Up Dials With The Artigiano “Sashiko Denim”

What We Know For all the conversations about what to do when a dial is damaged, possibly fit for restoration, or a watch needs some repair, I don't recall many examples of watches with dials that come pre-repaired. That's essentially what Arsène Lippens has launched: a watch inspired by the Japanese craft of Sashiko, which artfully patches and repairs textiles (largely denim) to extend their lives and turn them into something beautiful. In collaboration with Pey van der Wel, a Dutch artist who runs SASHIKODENIM, the brand's new limited edition of 10 pieces is the second in its "Threads of Time" series celebrating textile crafts. The watch is a relatively straightforward release as an entire package: a 37.5mm by 9.9mm 316L stainless steel case housing a manually wound Sellita SW210-1b movement with a 48-hour power reserve. The case is water-resistant to 50 meters, with a solid caseback and a box dome anti-reflective crystal on the front side. The thickness largely comes from the depth required for the dial, which is the star of the show. The dial is made of denim, with 12 individual hour markers hand-stitched one thread wide through the dial, with a cross-hatch at 3, 6, 9, and 12. Of course, none of these dials are the same, and you could argue that some, including the one shown here, might not be perfectly aligned to the hour marker. But so be it. The watch celebrates a centuries-old handcraft and its beautifully imperfect nature. Of course, the watch comes with a denim s...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Norqain s Ben Küffer Talks Oct 8, 2026

In Partnership - From The Source : NORQAIN's Ben Küffer Talks Us Through the Expanded Wild ONE Collection

Challenging conventions is part of NORQAIN's DNA. For CEO Ben Küffer, that aim to "redefine what a Swiss mechanical sports watch could be" has been instrumental to the brand's success. For its latest release, the family-owned Swiss brand announced three new models in a first for the brand: grade 5 titanium. The Wild ONE Skeleton Titanium 39mm and 42mm reimagine the brand's signature sports watch, incorporating grade 5 titanium into the watch's top plate with the bottom retaining NORQAIN's signature NORTEQ carbon-fiber-composite.The result is a rich visual contrast and lightweight construction. "Titanium certainly has a future within NORQAIN," Küffer says, "but only where it adds something meaningful to the design and performance of the watch." Each possesses a distinct identity, with the 39mm—limited to 400 pieces—opting for a grey palette based on titanium's muted character, featuring light yellow dial accents and Super-LumiNova for technical performance and legibility. The 42mm, by contrast, opts for a slightly bolder coloring with mint green details for a bolder visual presence. Both are powered by the skeletonized in-house NK26/1 automatic movement, a COSC-certified chronometer with a 65-hour power reserve. The star of the new collection, however, is the all-new Wild ONE Meteorite Titanium 42mm. The Meteorite takes the brand's flagship watch and incorporates Grade 5 titanium and an anthracite iron meteorite dial, combining contemporary high-tech design with ancie...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Anoma Oct 8, 2026

Hands-On: The Wren Vessel

It's not often that a microbrand makes a complete pivot in design language. In fact, I'd argue that it's rarely advisable. Once you've built an audience around your existing design codes, introducing a product with virtually zero overlap with what your customers already love is a massive gamble. But NYC-based microbrand Wren, created by Craig Karger of Wrist Enthusiast, has taken that risk today with a completely new design called the Wren Vessel. Last year, I spent some time with the Wren Diver 38 models, which stuck to the brand's singular design language centered around vintage dive watches. Not the most groundbreaking concept in the microbrand space, even if the watches are impressively specced for the price point. But I think it's quite interesting to see that the brand's ambitions are much higher than what it's currently offering, and today's new watch marks the next step for Wren. For this new watch, the brand teams up with designer Max Resnick, a watch designer with a background in automotive design who's done work for other microbrands like VPC, Traska, and Anoma. The final result feels quite original, despite the high-level concept of a modern, integrated sports watch being explored by many brands in many other ways. Wren logo aside, the Vessel shares almost no similarities with the rest of the brand's designs. The Vessel brings a new, integrated(ish) bracelet design that feels almost retrofuturistic in its silhouette, with a generally tonneau shape but executed ...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Glashütte Original s “Cherry Blossom” Senator Oct 8, 2026

Introducing: Glashütte Original's “Cherry Blossom” Senator Meissen Is In Full Bloom This Fall

What We Know Last year, Glashütte Original released a trio of porcelain-dial watches as part of its collaboration with Meissen, Europe's oldest porcelain manufacturer, dating back to 1710. Today, the two historic German houses are partnering again, this time to release a new porcelain-dial watch inspired by Jugatsu-zakura, a Japanese cherry blossom that flowers intermittently during the colder months. The "Cherry Blossom" Senator Meissen retains all of the original collaboration's specs: It measures 40mm wide and 10.2mm thick, is set in red gold, and features an exhibition sapphire crystal caseback. It also comes on a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with a red-gold pin buckle. The dial is made of a thin slice of white porcelain that acts as a canvas for the hand-painted layers, which are fired at 900° Celsius between each layer to achieve maximum depth and intensity. Glashütte Original's lettering and Meissen's crossed swords logo are hand-painted near the center, but besides that, the dial has a blank format. The exclusion of any hour markers, numerals, or indices allows the cherry blossom motif, with its slender branches that extend upward and delicate, pale-pink flowers, to shine—punctuated only by solid-gold hour and minute hands. Powered by Glashütte Original's in-house automatic Caliber 36-16, the watch offers 100 hours of power reserve and operates at 4 Hz. The movement also features a silicon balance spring and a stop-seconds mechanism. (aka hacki...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Nomos Glashütte Metro Date Power Oct 8, 2026

Introducing: The Nomos Glashütte Metro Date Power Reserve Gets A New Caliber (Live Pics)

What We Know If you asked me to pick a watch from the catalog that best represents the small but mighty German brand Nomos Glashütte, I'd probably choose the Metro Date Power Reserve. Sure, it's not the distinctive Tangente, nor is it a simple Club Campus. But I think the Metro Date Power Reserve embodies so much of what makes the brand special to me—a beautifully considered, minimalist design by designer Mark Braun, a splash of color to make it interesting, a quirky power reserve indicator, and an in-house manually wound movement with the finishing you'd expect from the brand. That's why I bought mine a few years ago, and I've enjoyed it ever since. However, unlike many other watches in the lineup, the Metro Date Power Reserve is a tricky model to recommend to friends, especially those just starting out in this dangerously addictive space. That's because for all that the watch delivers, it has its Achilles' heel in the form of a non-quickset date. Yes, that means that if you haven't worn the watch in a while and the date is off a bit, you'll need to keep moving the hands back and forth past midnight to advance the date every single time. If you're fifteen days out, it gets tedious, and there's no way around it except to accept that your watch shows the wrong date. Luckily, after more than a decade in production, the model gets a new refresh. Today, Nomos brings a new in-house caliber, DUW 4701, to power the new generation of Metro Date Power Reserve. Most importantly, ...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Ming into town from near Oct 7, 2026

Happenings: Join Us For Hodinkee Happy Hour At Grotta [RSVP Here]

New York Watch Week is almost here, and we're kicking off the jam-packed weekend with the next installment of Hodinkee Happy Hour at Grotta. With watch enthusiasts and industry folk coming into town from near and far, it's the perfect opportunity to grab a beer, eat some pizza, and catch up with the New York watch community. Space is limited, so be sure to RSVP right away. Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, will be there, along with Deputy Editor Tim Jeffreys and other Hodinkee team members. We'd love for you join, whether you're a regular or it's your first time attending one of our events. See you there! Date:Wednesday, October 14, 2026, 6-8 PMLocation:Grotta Local177 Mulberry StNew York, NY 10013 RSVP Here.

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Oct 7, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Bangalore Watch Company Co-Founder And CEO Nirupesh Joshi

This week on The Business of Watches, we feature a boutique brand and its CEO from a country that has the watch industry abuzz. Nirupesh Joshi is the co-founder and Chief Executive Officer of Bangalore Watch Company, based in Bengaluru (formerly Bangalore), India. Mercy Amalraj and Nirupesh Joshi. Founded in 2018, the company has slowly established itself as a purveyor of premium watchmaking, with models that don't rely on classic tropes about the country to tell their story. Former tech industry executives Joshi and his wife, Mercy Amalraj, are building a brand that aims to express India's modern spirit as the country becomes an increasingly significant economic and cultural player on the world stage. India has a rich watchmaking history, with brands like HMT and Titan producing watches in large volumes to serve its fast-growing population of over 1 billion people. But BWC is seeking a different client, one that's more seasoned in watches, and is seeking a brand that innovates and competes with other marques from around the world to tell its own unique stories.  BWC has grown to about 15 staff members, including watchmakers repatriated from other brands, and has opened a boutique in its home city and produces around 2,000 watches per year, assembled in India using components made both in-country and from suppliers around the world. The company recently raised capital from investors, and Joshi tells us how BWC plans to bring its watches to a wider, global audience. Custo...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Vacheron Constantin 4072 Oct 7, 2026

Introducing: Atelier de Chronométrie's New Chronograph Caliber Is A Stunning Return To The Past

What We Know If you're following artisanal watchmaking with all the flash and hype of the independent space, you're forgiven for missing Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie. Their watches don't often show up on social media, largely because they are entirely bespoke, one-off commissions based on the various architectures they offer. But we've been covering them since 2016, and the product (and potentially their clients' tastes) has gotten better and better. Outstanding, in fact. That's how I'd frame their new AdC16, the company's first two-counter chronograph. If you don't like the design, that's fine—you can customize it however you like—but top-down, movement-to-specs, the watch is really attractive to a vintage lover like myself. Atelier de Chronométrie allows customization of the case and dial, as well as finishing on the movement (a variation of which they are going to share soon, based on this movement), but in this case, they've made a really nice, compact, 36mm Calatrava-style case that is reminiscent (with the dial) of a Vacheron Constantin 4072. The case is two-tone yellow gold and steel and has a black galvanic gilt-style dial (though not actually done the original way, as the press release states; more likely pad-printed), with yellow gold applied markers and hands. The kicker is really the movement. The base design is the venerable Valjoux 23, but they've redesigned the shape of several bridges and levers while trying to keep the entire gear train fe...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

F.P. Journe Oct 6, 2026

Auctions: Previewing Marteau’s ‘Encore’ And Antiquorum’s Return To New York, Both This Month

The fall auction season is already upon us. Or, I guess you could say, it's been here since the strong showing by Sotheby's in Hong Kong—though that technically ended right before the official start of fall. The Cartier Cheich in white gold (which traded hands among dealers and collectors for a few years at far less than that) sold for $3.4 million, setting a record as the most expensive Cartier and most expensive quartz watch ever sold. Weeks later, if you asked me what this means for the market, I'd probably stare at you blankly. Ben would probably do the same, as he's said on the site that it's just hard to make sense of prices both at retail and at auction anymore. Let's chat about that all first. What The Heck Is Going On With The Market? As we head into the bulk of the auctions, I currently feel far less confident telling you where prices will land. I think most prognosticators—myself included—would say that we have to be nearing the height of the bubble for F.P. Journe and A. Lange & Söhne. But then again, over breakfast the other day, a friend asked if I knew someone who'd want a very historically important watch from a more traditional brand that went underpriced nearly 10 years ago and now was available for double that—into the seven figures. Some things (like that very vague story, probably) make sense; some can leave you scratching your head. European Watch Co. has this Tourbillon Pour le Mérite listed for $1,100,000 right now. There was an interestin...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Daniel Roth Oct 6, 2026

Happenings: New York Watch Week 2026 Is Almost Here

It's that time of the year again! And no, I'm not talking about pumpkin spice season (but no shade if you're into it). I'm talking about the busiest time of the year for watches in New York, with New York Watch Week coming up in full swing. That means some of the most exciting watch shows in the Big Apple are happening over that weekend, with some cool talks, brand events, and more bringing it all together. Image courtesy WatchTime The two big shows that we all know and love will be very much present. WatchTime magazine continues the collector-favorite event centered around high-end watchmaking, WatchTime New York, happening from October 16th through the 18th. WatchTime seems to get bigger and bigger every year, and this year they'll be hosting a whopping 48 brands at Gotham Hall. Yes, it's hard to imagine how more brands can somehow fit into the space, but they've managed to make it happen. Along with many familiar names returning, some of the new brands making their debut at WatchTime will be Ferdinand Berthoud, Kudoke, Kollokium, Daniel Roth, and more. While Friday night tickets are sold out, single-day admission is available for sale at WatchTime for both Saturday and Sunday. To complement the high-end showcase at Gotham Hall, Windup Watch Fair (from our friends at Worn & Wound) returns also from October 16th through October 18th, at Center415 on Fifth Ave. between 37th and 38th St. The show will continue to be a delightfully overwhelming mix of everything watches and ...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Oct 6, 2026

Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In Boston and Los Angeles

The Horological Society of New York's award-winning classes are on the road again! HSNY is visiting Boston on November 7 and 8, 2026, hosted by Shreve, Crump & Low. HSNY then heads to Los Angeles on November 14, 2026, hosted by F.P.Journe.  At HSNY's Horological Education classes, students discover what actually makes a watch tick under the guidance of the HSNY's staff of professional watchmakers. Students work on a mechanical watch movement, studying the gear train, winding and setting mechanisms, and escapement. The weekend half-day classes cover everything taught during the individual evening classes held in New York. Enrollment is now open for the classes, and we look forward to seeing you there! HODINKEE is a sponsor of the Horological Society of New York.

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Grand Seiko s Evolution 9 Collection Oct 6, 2026

Introducing: The Seiko Panda Watch That Stole The Show In 2024 Is Finally Here

What We Know Seiko has unveiled two limited-edition chronographs born from its power design project, a long-running internal design initiative that encourages designers to explore ideas beyond the constraints of commercial product development. The new watches are based on A Watch Exclusively for Panda Lovers, one of seven concept pieces presented at the 2024 Incredibly Specialized Watch Exhibition, where designers were challenged to create watches tailored to extraordinarily specific audiences. Among the seven concepts, none generated quite as much excitement as the panda watch. Nearly three years after its debut as a one-off exhibition piece, it has now become a production model—remarkably faithful to the original concept. The original "A Watch Exclusively for Panda Lovers" was displayed at the 2024 Incredibly Specialized Watch Exhibition. Original design sketches from the exhibition. The watch was designed by Kiyotaka Sakai, a member of Seiko's product design team who also works on Grand Seiko's Evolution 9 Collection. His starting point was a deceptively simple question: Is a watch called "Panda" really seen as a panda in anyone's eyes? The idea draws on the Japanese concept of mitate—finding unexpected visual associations between seemingly unrelated objects. While collectors have long referred to black-and-white chronographs as "panda dials," Sakai wondered what a watch would look like if it were designed not to resemble a panda dial, but an actual panda. The answe...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Ming Japanese movements Oct 5, 2026

Hands-On: Traska Chronograph Tungsten Gray

It's funny the way a brand can sneak up on you. Maybe you hear the name on a podcast, and then, a few months later, you run into the brand at a watch fair, or on a friend's wrist. Still, despite repeated encounters, it's remarkable how a brand can continue to exist entirely outside your awareness. Until it doesn't. Until you somehow find a brand, or a watch, completely inescapable, unavoidable, inevitable. 18 months ago, I'm not sure I'd ever given an independent thought to Traska; today, that couldn't be further from the truth, and the brand's Chronograph (aptly named, the Chronograph) is the perfect example of why. If you don't yet know Traska, I don't blame you. Traska is just one of many small brands that have popped up over the last decade, and they've broadly followed a familiar formula: Kickstarter launch, followed by a slowly expanding stable of somewhat conservatively designed, three-handed sports and dive watches, all powered by reliable but unassuming Japanese movements, and all drawing a heavy dose of inspiration from well-known (but far less accessible) watch brands. So, if the broad strokes are familiar, where Traska has separated itself from the pack is in the details. For one thing, unlike so many other Kickstarter brands with similar stories who have come and gone with barely a whisper, Traska has stuck around and, each year, their watches have gotten better. I finally reached my tipping point with Traska last year, when I picked up a second-hand Venturer ...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Oct 5, 2026

Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond & Spectre Editions (Live Pics)

What We Know If you've been browsing Omega's website recently, you might have seen some interesting discrepancies while looking at the webpages for many of the Seamasters. Many on the internet have picked up on these little details and subtle easter eggs, including the Omega logo in the website header intermittently flickering into the franchise's modern-era Specter logo. Or perhaps you spotted that same logo depicted as ASCII art in the website's source code (shown below). Clever marketing techniques, especially given the Bond theme of the releases being teased.  Then, this past Friday, Omega dropped the product page for one of the new watches straight into the Seamaster 300 collection on the website, technical specs and all. And while the listing had no photos (that would be too easy), sleuths quickly found a long string of binary text in the description box that converts to the product introduction for the new watch. It created real buzz online, but let me fill in the final missing pieces with live photos and hands-on context of these new Bond-themed Seamasters. Which brings us to today: Omega launches not just one watch—but actually four new Seamasters. Two of them are the focus here since they're not limited and are additions to the main collection. Let's get one thing out of the way first—if you saw the teaser and were hoping for a new, downsized version of the Seamaster Diver 300M, sorry, no dice. These new watches follow the same formula as the current-generat...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Hamilton American Classic Cushion Mechanical Oct 2, 2026

Introducing: Hamilton American Classic Cushion Mechanical

What We Know This week, Hamilton dropped the latest in their series of vintage-inspired watches. But where most brands lean hard on their mid-century offerings for their re-editions, here Hamilton takes a different tack, reaching deep into their archive to resurrect watches so old, they'd be better described as antique rather than vintage. So, it is with the Hamilton American Classic Cushion, which breathes new life into a century-old design. And before you ask, these aren't quartz fashion watches dressed up in vintage clothing; these are tried-and-true hand-wound mechanical watches. The new collection — and it really is a collection, with six models split across two case sizes — is directly inspired by cushion-case watches made by Hamilton in the 1920s. If they seem eerily familiar for watches designed 100 years ago, it may be because Cillian Murphy wore an antique Hamilton cushion watch in Oppenheimer. Here, those watches have been quite respectfully updated for 2026, and though absolute fidelity was not the goal here, these remain easily among the most faithful-feeling reissues we've seen from Hamilton recently. As I mentioned earlier, a big part of the appeal of these watches comes down to the choice to use a hand-winding mechanical movement in these watches, rather than the quartz movements so often used in these small-size vintage reissues. Here, Hamilton is using the H-42, a manual-wind caliber that is, in essence, Hamilton's branded version of the ETA 7001. It'...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Sinn 103 St Sa Lufthansa Oct 2, 2026

Introducing: Sinn 103 St Sa Lufthansa For 100 Years Of Lufthansa

What We Know Sinn just dropped a new take on their classic 103 St pilot chronograph to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Lufthansa, one of the world's largest airlines. The new watch, which — fittingly — is limited to just 100 pieces, takes the model 103 and strips it down to the bare essentials. The result is the Sinn 103 St Sa Lufthansa, a watch that's slightly outside the norm for Sinn and replete with details nodding to the German flag carrier. The most obvious of these is the use of Lufthansa's signature shade of yellow for the hands and subdials markings associated with the chronograph function. The only other "colors" used are several shades of grey, each of which is pulled directly from Lufthansa's style guide (Lufthansa's iconic dark blue didn't make the cut for this one). Other Lufthansa-inspired details include a special engraving on the watch's rotor, visible through a sapphire display caseback, and an opening in the chronograph seconds hand meant to evoke the shape of an airliner window. Notably, this is not the first collaboration between Sinn and Lufthansa (though it is the most limited I'm aware of). The first of these (again, that I'm aware of), was the 747-piece limited edition Sinn 144-747.CARGO. Released 25 years ago, this was a very cool take on the Sinn 144 that included a scale around the rehaut that indicates target flight altitude for a Boeing 747 loaded to a given gross weight under normal atmospheric conditions. This was followed up by the 7...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar Oct 2, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Lucien Piccard Telephone, A Mappin and Webb Dress Watch, An Omega Admiralty, And A Jaeger LeCoultre Master Mariner

Friday's upon us again. Happy pumpkin spice season to all who celebrate. While you're deciding whether to see Digger in the theater, planning your elaborate Halloween costume, penciling in time to watch the WNBA finals and MLB playoffs, and tracking fallout from the Man City scandal, here are a few watches to tide you over as the mercury drops. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the ZRC went for €6,000, the Omega Ranchero for €3,500, the Cartier Santos sells tomorrow, and the Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar for $14,000. Strays Here's an honest-looking early Heuer 844, which, yes, has a worn crystal and bezel, and it 'requires attention' according to the listing. That said, it's got a decent-looking Monnin case, cathedral hands (meaning Mk 1), and a movement that's common enough to be fairly easily resurrected. For those who at some point fell into the Omega Symbol watch rabbit hole, here's a pair of excellent men's versions—this one and that one—and an accompanying pair of women's versions (this and that), and if all of that is gobbledygook to you, count yourself lucky and move along. If you've been hankering for a great-looking 1979 Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019, your time has come. Photo courtesy of The Saleroom. This is in the running as the prettiest school pocket watch I've seen in a long time, and a good argument for why people should continue investing more time, energy, and money into pocket watches. Bonhams' upcoming New York auction on the 8th has plenty of wo...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility – Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility - Limited Edition for Hodinkee

Purpose-built for maximum utility, the iconic central-minute chronograph returns to its rightful place in the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition for Hodinkee

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Patek Philippe Reference 5978P – Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Reference 5978P - A Brand New Perpetual Calendar Chronograph! (Live Pics)

Reporting directly from Milan, we have a brand-new watch from Patek Philippe, and man, this is a big one. For only the seventh time in the 187 years of the world's most important high-end watchmaker, we have a new perpetual calendar chronograph! The 1518 was shown in 1941, the 2499 in 1951, the 3970 in 1986, the 5020 (forgot about that one, didnt ya!?) in 1994, the 5970 in 2004, and the 5270 in 2011 – which means this new watch, the reference 5978P, is only the second to be shown in my entire career covering this space. So you can imagine how excited I was to hear about it! Say hello to the 5978P. For only the seventh time in 187 years, we have a new perpetual calendar chronograph!  What you're looking at is something so familiar, and yet so different. It is the first hand-wound perpetual chronograph to feature an instantaneous calendar mechanism, all shown in windows along a curved arch at the top of the dial, making the watch immensely legible, much more so than any previous PPC to date. The instantaneous jumping – which happens within 30 milliseconds – is one heck of a party trick.  If you're thinking this looks like something you may have seen in the 5208 or 5308 Grand Complications, you'd be exactly right. The long and short is that Patek has taken that ingenious instantaneous perpetual calendar mechanism from its big, big dog watches and applied it to the base chronograph caliber CH 29-535 that powers Patek's finest watches. It makes a shocking amount of sen...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Patek Philippe Revisits Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: Patek Philippe Revisits The Ladies First With The New Gondolo (Live Pics)

What We Know: Milan is one of the world's great fashion capitals. At the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano, Patek Philippe fittingly unveiled the Gondolo Ladies First, a collection that revisits a significant modern women's watch for the brand while taking a decidedly different approach to its execution. The new collection comprises six versions of the Ref. 7043, all sharing the same 31 x 34.8mm cushion-shaped case. Three feature diamond-set dials, while three Joaillerie versions take gem-setting considerably further, with the dial, case, and lugs covered in diamonds. The watches are available in rose gold, white gold, or a combination of both, with colorful straps and gemstone hour markers, offering the most obvious departure from the more restrained watches that inspired them. That inspiration is the 2009 Ladies First Chronograph Ref. 7071, a watch that marked an important moment in Patek Philippe's history with women's watches. Patek Philippe had, of course, been making women's watches for well over a century. In fact, its first wristwatch—created in 1868 for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary—was a ladies' watch. But the 2009 Ladies First watch achieved something else. It brought Patek Philippe's new in-house CH 29-535 PS chronograph movement to a watch designed specifically for a woman's wrist. At the time, the watch made something of a statement. Patek Philippe was putting serious mechanical watchmaking at the center of a watch created intentionally for women, rather ...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Editions With Two New References In Milan

When it comes to collecting vintage watches, all roads lead back to Rome. Literally. Well, Rome’s home country, at least, where the passion for horology (and vintage Patek Philippe) permeates the culture, and has done so for decades, in a way that you really can’t find anywhere else. Add to that Milan’s status as fashion capital of the world, and it makes sense that Patek Philippe would host the seventh Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. The free exhibition (with reserved tickets) is meant to celebrate the art of watchmaking viewed through the lens of the craftsmanship (both technically and artistically) of Patek past and future. It opens tomorrow, October 2, and runs until October 18. As is tradition, the brand has launched new watches to celebrate the moment—7 new limited editions and 25 Rare Handcrafts models using various métiers d’art.  Ben wrote about the big news of a new manual-wind perpetual calendar chronograph (limited to 120 pieces) here. We'll also be sharing all the Rare Handcrafts pieces soon in a Photo Report from Milan. But while they're not all new references, the new treatments of a few pretty outstanding watches deserve their own story. First things first, all of these watches are ostensibly for the Italian market. But hey, better to have loved and lost (...out on a chance to buy them) than to never know they existed. As of launch, Patek has not released pricing for this model. We will update the article when more information becomes avail...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Casio associates plopped down Oct 1, 2026

Hands-On: G-SHOCK Reveals The MRG-D5000 “Blue Rose Project” In Sapphire

Earlier this summer, I sat down in a fluorescent-lit meeting room in Yamagata, Japan, as a group of Casio associates plopped down a heavy box in front of me. I thought I was just going to Casio's Yamagata factory for a tour of the production line, but I had no idea that I was about to see something absolutely bonkers. Turns out, they were about to show me the watch released to the world today—G-SHOCK's first-ever production watch constructed out of sapphire crystal, in a limited edition of 20 pieces. Let's get to the important detail first—the new MRG-D5000 is priced at $80,000 (JPY 1.1 million). Is this the craziest new G-SHOCK we've seen in a while? Certainly yes. But is it surprising? Well, maybe not quite. The clues were kind of there all along. In the MR-G series, which already represents G-SHOCK at its highest end, the new Blue Rose Project stands out for its material choice and a price tag still an order of magnitude higher than even the most expensive typical MR-G models. If you're not familiar with the series, it's essentially G-SHOCK's flagship lineup: it takes the familiar digital module and durability specs demanded of G-SHOCK and combines them with a much higher level of materials and finishing, along with a much more complex construction. I've owned an MR-G (the MRGB5000R-1, to be specific) for a few years now, and I have to say that I'm a big fan. Yes, it's certainly one of the easier watch concepts to ridicule online, but these models feel extremely imp...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Baltic Sep 30, 2026

Photo Report: Toronto Timepiece Show 2026

Walking through the halls of the Meridian Arts Center in Toronto, through the 90-ish brands assembled for the event by Jason Hutton and his team, it's hard to believe the Toronto Timepiece Show is only in its third edition. The show feels far more established than you'd expect from what is still a relatively nascent endeavor. It's an impressive feat, made all the more impressive by the explosion of Hutton's Timepiece Shows across Canada. Besides Toronto, this year's Timepiece Show made stops in Vancouver and — for the first time — Montréal. But Toronto is the original, and so I'm glad to have finally made it up to the Great White North to see what it's all about. This is what these shows are all about — finding moments to connect with other enthusiasts. Although, checking out the watches — like the latest offerings from Baltic — is important too. If you're not familiar with the concept, the Toronto Timepiece Show is one of several open-to-the-public watch fairs that have become core gathering points for enthusiasts around the world in recent years. Having now seen the Toronto Timepiece Show in person, I'm also convinced it's not one to miss. So, without further interruption, below is a look at just some of the watches, people, and moments I saw at 2026's edition of the Toronto Timepiece Show (and if you want to check out some of last year's show, you can see James's coverage here) Tudor Black Bay 54 The iconic Seiko Alpinist. Early Seamaster Professional 300M wi...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Formex CEO Sep 30, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Formex CEO And Head Of Product Development At Dexel Raphael Granito

Formex holds a unique place in the Swiss watch industry. Born in the early 2000s, it featured a proprietary case suspension system and designs that reflected the origin of its name, 'forme extrême' (extreme shapes in French). However, the recession spurred by the Global Financial Crisis of 2008 dealt the brand a near-fatal blow, and it entered a period of relative dormancy. Then, in 2016, a group backed by one of its suppliers, Dexel, a Swiss component maker specializing in bracelets, clasps, and cases, as well as dials through its subsidiary Cadranor, took over Formex.  Raphael Granito, now in his mid-thirties, is part of the family business behind Dexel and led the takeover and revival of the Formex marque. He has steered the brand's development ever since, and a decade later, Formex is leveraging Dexel's manufacturing savoir-faire and R&D; to produce innovative, approachable-priced Swiss-made watches. The brand's evolution culminated recently with the Aria, a high-end integrated-bracelet titanium sport watch with an ultra-thin, micro-rotor manufacture movement designed by Horage, priced below CHF 6,000. That's a significant step up compared to the CHF 1,800 average price point for its watches.  Granito outlines how the brand has grown and connected with more customers, operating mainly outside the traditional retail structure. Still a family business, he hired his best friend from university to lead marketing and sales efforts. Formex has distinguished itself by offe...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Sep 29, 2026

Introducing: Ripe For Release, The BAIT x G-Shock 'Yamagata's Finest' DW5600

What We Know Whether you eat your banana traditionally or the long way, BAIT sees you and wants you to know your food-oriented horological stylings don't have to be confined to egg timers or rolling some beautiful bean footage. To honor that sometimes green, sometimes yellow, sometimes brown, sometimes in your freezer fruit (which is surprisingly grown in greenhouses in the cold Yamagata Prefecture, where G-Shocks are often made), the new collaboration is a speckled DW5600 like you know and love, just bananafied. What more can you say? The DW5600 is the G-Shock for a lot of people, and measures 42.8mm by 13.4mm in a resin plastic case. Now it's yellow, with brown accents in the text (and on the bezel and even a faux-sticker on the strap) and a just-ripe tip to the strap. The packaging is a special can and box with a brand-new makeshift mascot, "Shawty with Freckles" — think Chiquita banana without the copyright violation. But the made-up brand and made-up bananas have to come from somewhere. That place is BAIT FARMS, and they're releasing a bunch of other apparel (hat, T-shirt, a blue-and-white striped workshirt, and a cotton canvas work jacket) so you can get to work at the farm. Otherwise, it's possible you'll have no bananas. You'll have no bananas today. One of the best features is always the backlight, and this time you get the kissing banana as the background on the watch. Pricing hasn't been shared for the accessories, but we're a watch website, so we'll just stic...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007 Sep 29, 2026

Hands-On: Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007

For the life of me, I can't remember if I've ever owned an Alpinist. I think I did, for a little while. I know I at least borrowed one for a while, but the Alpinist was never as central to me as it has been for a lot of watch guys of my vintage (by that, I mean collectors who got into this whole thing in the late 2000s). If I did own an Alpinist, it was a brief, flirtatious affair meant to satisfy curiosity before I found my way back to the SKX (a watch I have owned many, many examples of). Still, the Alpinist — specifically the SARB017 Alpinist with its green dial, compass bezel, and gold numerals — seemed as close to omnipresent as a watch could get in my early days of collecting and learning. They made daily appearances on wristcheck channels on forums, and their sudden appearance on one of my friends' wrists was a great sign that they were becoming properly watch-enthused. It's hard to quantify the Alpinist's impact, but here's the thing: while the Alpinist may not be the Seiko thatmost watch enthusiasts collect today, if you control for "dive watch," I'd hazard a guess it's at least close. And in an era when it felt like a Seiko was the price of entry to "watch enthusiast," it was a watch that mattered. And then, it vanished. Okay, that's maybe a little dramatic. The Alpinist had a long run, and like so many of the watches Seiko introduced in the '90s and '00s, it was eventually sunsetted and, a few short years later, replaced with something that looks awfully sim...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Jaeger-LeCoultre Sep 29, 2026

Business News: Gallet’s Return Heralds Renewed Battle For Mid-Tier Priced Watch Segment

Backed by Breitling's House of Brands group, Gallet's return was hotly anticipated and closely scrutinized. Priced between $2,900 for a three-hand Flying Officer model with date and about $6,700 for the vintage-inspired 'Classics' models, replete with Breitling B09 hand-wound calibers, the revived brand's pricing at Breitling boutiques is certainly aggressive.  Gallet's rebirth and price-category decision mark the most high-profile and ambitious attempt by the Swiss watch industry to reclaim a space it once owned but has largely ceded in recent years to so-called 'boutique' or micro-brands that have filled the gap left by traditional Swiss brands moving upscale.Over the past decade, brands have climbed the value-category ladder even higher, making fewer watches at higher prices. The so-called mid-tier premium—or luxury watches with an MSRP between $2,000 and $5,000—was once dominated by Swiss brands from Omega to Breitling to TAG Heuer and Jaeger-LeCoultre. And while TAG Heuer still produces plenty of watches in the category, including the solar-powered quartz Formula 1, much of its development and marketing resources have been focused on new pricier versions of classic chronographs housed in titanium or other lightweight materials including the highly innovative, but eye-wateringly expensive, Monaco 'Evergraph' retailing at more than $28,000. Several of the new Gallet watches are available on a steel bracelet that is the same used on some Breitling models. Photo Cre...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Sep 29, 2026

Introducing: The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Dark (Live Pics)

What We Know Nomos Glasshütte's Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer quickly became a fan favorite among several Hodinkee editors after its early 2025 debut, and it also became a commercial winner for the brand. Since then, Nomos, known for its unique, Bauhaus-influenced contemporary designs paired with German watchmaking and value for money, has released a series of limited-edition colorways to complement its permanent collection, which includes blue, silver, and white dial options. Today, things are getting a bit darker for the Club Sport Worldtimer and a little brighter too. With more lume in more places and a deep noir dial, the new Club Sport Worldtimer Dark joins the Nomos permanent collection.  The headline is that the lume now appears on the city ring and the home time indicator, not just on the hands and number indexes as on previous iterations. The blue glow of the newly lumed locations are offset by a dark 'enamel black' dial. There's still a Nomos signature splash of color, though, with blue and red outlining the home indicator subdial, and reminding us that this is a travel watch.  The stainless steel case remains 40mm in diameter and a svelte 9.9mm thick, keeping this approachable-priced model among the thinnest world timers on the market. It also uses the same Nomos-manufactured movement (DUW 3202), featuring the brand's 'swing system' escapement developed in-house with help from the local university in Glashütte.   The Nomos world timer tracks 24 time zon...

Read article