SJX Watches · Page 16

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Ulysse Nardin Illuminates Oct 16, 2025

Ulysse Nardin Illuminates the Freak S with Flinqué Enamel

Ulysse Nardin has revealed a new take on its flagship complication, the Freak S Enamel, now offered with a silvery titanium case and with the choice of either red or turquoise translucent flinqué enamel over an engine-turned guilloché dial. While mechanically unchanged, the cleaner case design and high-gloss dial plate transform the overall visual impression and intensify the focus on the central carousel, which serves as both the time display and the heart of the movement. A limited edition of 50 pieces in each colour, the enamel edition is the fourth member of the Freak S family, which was launched in 2022 as a higher-end, dual-balance evolution of the Freak Vision. Initial thoughts Since its debut a quarter century ago, the Freak collection has given Ulysse Nardin (UN) freedom to push the boundaries of movement design. While the usually crownless case and central carousel have become familiar over the years, each iteration still manages to feel like an experiment. The new enamel edition is the most aesthetically restrained Freak S yet; paradoxically, it also feels the most luxurious, trading exotic material combinations for polished titanium and brightly coloured enamel. The result is a watch that feels as radical as ever, but more refined. The 45 mm case, for example, is the simplest Freak S case to date: no carbon flanks, and no PVD coating. The traditional brushed and polished finish helps the large case fade into the background to allow the enamel dial and starshi...

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Omega Oct 16, 2025

Seiko Revives Retro Rotocall from Eighties Space Shuttle Era

More Seiko watches have gone to space than any other brand, save for Omega and Casio, and Seiko brings back the most prolific of them all, the multi-function Rotocall. For the 2025 reissue, the brand has gone for authenticity over reinvention, retaining the original 37 mm case size and bezel-operated function selector, while making a concession for a more practical sapphire crystal. Named for its nifty rotating bezel, the vintage Rotocall was most frequently worn on NASA Space Shuttle missions. The remake is available in three colourways, plus two limited editions for the Japanese market, the reissue of this 1980s favourite delivers a heavy dose of nostalgia. Initial thoughts If the Speedmaster Professional is the “Moon Watch”, the Rotocall may as well be called the “Shuttle Watch”. NASA purportedly flight qualified the Rotocall around 1983 and, according to Robert Jackson, who maintains a database of watches used in space, Rotocalls crossed the Karman line nearly 200 times during the Space Shuttle program, which lasted until 2011. Today, vintage Rotocalls are quite desirable, and unlike NASA-issued Speedmasters, which were government property, astronauts paid for and were allowed to keep their Rotocalls. Sotheby’s sold Kathy Sullivan’s watch, which she took to space twice – and once to the seafloor in the Challenger Deep – for over US$20,000 a few years ago. The Rotocall may be the most faithful of Seiko’s recent reissues; it’s the same diameter – 37...

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Rolex or Oct 16, 2025

Strap or Bracelet? Ming’s Laser-Formed Titanium Mesh is Both

Ming has unveiled the Polymesh strap, described by the brand as the world’s first 3D-printed titanium watch bracelet. Blurring the line between bracelet and strap, it’s comprised of 1,693 articulating grade 5 titanium components. Designed to fit any Ming case with 20 mm lugs, the Polymesh strap reflects the brand’s growing ambitions. Initial thoughts The Polymesh strap illustrates the important function that independent brands like Ming play in the watchmaking ecosystem; they can explore concepts that big brands cannot. Large industrial brands are, to some extent, locked in a cage of their own making. On one hand, they have scale and distribution, but on the other, any innovation must be tested exhaustively to ensure it won’t complicate service channels. Ming exists in a sweet spot, with enough market traction to confidently invest in the development of new ideas, and the nimble size to take decisive action. In this context, it’s not surprising to see the first 3D-printed wristwatch bracelet come from a brand like Ming rather than an industrial powerhouse like Rolex or the Swatch Group. The concept itself is inherently interesting. It might be called a bracelet or a strap, but regardless of the nomenclature, it’s intended to offer both the dense, draping feel of a bracelet with the supple flexibility of a strap, made possible through additive manufacturing. As with any truly novel concept, the Polymesh strap likely needs to be experienced firsthand to be fully...

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Vacheron Constantin Having opened Oct 16, 2025

Mechanical Wonders at the Louvre, From Ancient Egypt to Vacheron Constantin

Having opened on September 17th to coincide with the 270th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin, a philanthropic partner of the museum, Mécaniques d’art is an exhibition at the Louvre dedicated to mechanical art objects, specifically 10 historically significant clocks and watches (though some of the oldest are merely fragments).  On display in the Sully wing until November 12th, the exhibit casts a welcome light on an often-overlooked facet of the museum’s decorative arts collection; objects that blend technical mastery with mankind’s insatiable desire to measure time and understand the heavenly bodies. The centerpiece (literally, as it’s in the center of the room) is La Quête du Temps, the spectacular astronomical clock unveiled last month by Vacheron Constantin.  For those unable to visit, it’s worth a look at the remarkable objects on display, presented here in historical order. Exhibition overview Fragment of a Clepsydra Egypt, c. 332–30 BC At approximately 2,300 years old, the oldest clock on display predates mechanical clocks by centuries. Its age explains its condition – a mere fragment is all that remains of an ancient Egyptian clepsydra, or water clock.  As old as this water clock is, the underlying technology was centuries old when it was built. The device was essentially a flat-bottomed vessel with a hole in it, precisely drilled so that water would leak out at a predictable rate; experts estimate that this type of clepsydra could measure time t...

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Petermann Bédat Oct 15, 2025

Hands On: Petermann Bédat’s Reference 1825 Does More with Less

Petermann Bédat has just unveiled its third model, the Reference 1825, which arrives two years after the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The brand’s simplest watch to date, the 1825 is three hands but far from basic. In fact, the 1825 illustrates the cliche that less is more. Founded by duo Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, the brand departs from current fashion with the 1825, which has a restrained aesthetic front and back, though the movement incorporates enough subtle flourishes to make it distinctive and distinguished. The proliferation of open-dial time-only watches with overwrought finishing makes the quiet presence of the 1825 stand out. The cal. 233 of the 1825 Initial thoughts The recent enthusiasm for independent watchmaking has tended to focus on time-only watches of a specific sort, with open dials, exposed movements, and lots of finishing techniques. Naturally, independent watchmakers and brands have delivered in response to that demand. In comparison, the 1825 is old school in style and form, almost plain in fact, but I like it precisely because of that. The 1825 is appealing on two levels. One is tangible – it is an appealing watch on the wrist and clearly executed to a high level. The other is philosophical – I applaud Petermann Bédat for not going with current fads. The 1825 isn’t imaginative or radical, it is simply a simple watch of high quality that feels like it was conceived and executed by sincere, competent watchmakers. All ele...

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Blancpain Facelifts Oct 15, 2025

Blancpain Facelifts the Villeret Quantieme Complet 6654

As the first complication launched by the revived Blancpain in 1983, the triple calendar with moon phase is arguably the brand’s signature. Now Blancpain has reveal the latest generation of the model, the Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune. The new version is primarily a cosmetic facelift, which includes a blue ceramic moon phase disc, but it builds on solid foundations. The model retains the innovative and patented under-lug correctors for the calendar that make for easier setting and a clean case outline. The new Villeret Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune (centre) is being launched alongside the the Quantième Phases de Lune, a 33.2 mm model for ladies (left), and Extraplate, the time-and-date base model (right), both of which have been similarly facelifted. Initial thoughts The triple calendar is a simple complication, but functions and aesthetically pleasing in the traditional layout that Blancpain employs. Though it is widely found across brands, Blancpain probably offers the most advanced triple calendar watches on the market thanks to its sophisticated movements. And Blancpain manages to do so at a reasonably competitive price relative to its peers. At a distance, the facelifted models look pretty much identical to the earlier generation – a good thing if you like the look, but the classical style might look dated to some. I find the aesthetic appealing, especially with details like the serpentine date hand and recessed dates scale. The facelift...

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Urwerk s UR-10 Spacemeter Oct 15, 2025

Urwerk’s UR-10 Spacemeter is Sci-Fi and Almost Conventional

Known for its avant-garde approach to watchmaking, Urwerk takes a surprise detour into orthodoxy with the UR-10 Spacemeter. At least at first glance, it is a round(-ish) sports watch with an integrated bracelet – and normal hour and minutes hands – as well as indicators you’ll find on no other watch. But conceptually, the UR-10 Spacemeter is typical Urwerk. The indicators on the dial are all astronomy related, bringing to mind past Urwerk models and the brand’s sci-fi style. Initial Thoughts Oddly, I find I find myself more impressed with the UR-10 aesthetically than technically. Urwerk has cultivated a military, sci-fi aesthetic that I’ve become enamoured with, especially the EMC. And, if the UR-10 is anything like its similarly sized and braceleted peers, it will wear well too. Then there are the dials, with ideal typography, which sit under a sapphire bubble and remind me of a flush-mounted ship’s compass. The complications are inspired by an unusual 19th-century regulator clock by Gustave Sandoz, and attempt to track both the Earth’s rotation and revolution. An interesting idea, but the execution is disappointing as the indications aren’t particularly mathematically accurate and based on arbitrary distances, like 10 km, rather than natural phenomenon like, say, a sidereal time watch, where one rotation of a sidereal hour hand corresponds to one rotation of the Earth. However, Urwerk likes to develop ideas over time, and the Spacemeter concept has potent...

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Louis Vuitton Monterey Oct 15, 2025

SJX Podcast: Primetime for Fashion Brands?

On episode 14 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon Moore and SJX unpack the new Louis Vuitton Monterey and discuss where fashion brands fit in the contemporary fine watchmaking landscape. Are collectors who ignore these kinds of products intellectually lazy? We also cover the latest from Lange, which just added a stone onyx dial to the Saxonia Thin – is it the perfect watch for your next soiree? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

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Omega s Speedmaster Dark Side Oct 14, 2025

Omega’s Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Returns

A hit when it was launched a dozen years ago – time does fly – the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon was the first-ever Speedmaster in ceramic. Now Omega has refined and reworked the concept – the case is now almost 1 mm thinner – while retaining the all-ceramic construction and distinctive aesthetic. The new Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon (DSOTM) makes its debut in four variants. The first two stick closely to the original, right down to the same automatic cal. 9900 movement, but in a slimmer format. More notable is the manual-wind version containing the cal. 9908, the first DSOTM offering with this movement, making it even thinner. And it has no date to boot. Rounding out the quartet is the Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon (GSOTM) that is also manual-wind but powered by the historically-based, Moonwatch-famous cal. 3861. This adopts the lunar-textured surface, front and back, first seen on the Apollo 8 edition. The first manual-wind DSOTM that has a black-and-red livery Initial thoughts Contemporary collectors are spoiled for choice when it comes to the Speedmaster, which is available in seemingly endless configurations. While that’s arguably a criticism, it demonstrates Omega’s industrial prowess, which enables the brand to deliver large volumes of watches that are objectively high quality and equipped with some of the industry’s best chronograph movements, without keeping customers waiting. Regardless of the shade of grey or black, the watches are ins...

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Zenith Defies Gravity Again Oct 14, 2025

Zenith Defies Gravity (Again) to Mark 160 Years

Zenith’s 160th anniversary celebration continues with the Defy Zero G, a sapphire-cased watch equipped with the brand’s latest generation, gimbal-like “Gravity Control” escapement module. Available in either clear or deep blue sapphire – both with a lapis lazuli dial – the 46 mm anniversary model is a literal showcase for the innovative cal. 8812 S, which features a gimballed escapement platform that keeps the balance wheel in a horizontal position at all times. Originally developed in 2008 and refined in 2018, the Zero G mechanism is a modern homage to Zenith’s legacy in competitive chronometry and marine navigation. Initial thoughts Today, the Zenith brand is synonymous with the El Primero chronograph movement, launched back in 1969. But outside of that, the manufacture has always been a major force in Swiss precision watchmaking. For decades the brand regularly took home the top prizes at chronometry trials from Neuchâtel and Teddington. Zenith already paid tribute to its past success in competitive chronometry with the G.F.J. cal. 135, which also features a lapis lazuli dial, but it’s reassuring to see the brand made time to bring out one of its more recent developments for its anniversary year. While the days of chronometry trials are long past, Zenith has still managed to make a name for itself when it comes to the accuracy of wrist-worn timepieces - at least theoretically. Back in 2008 the brand unveiled a curious mechanism, with the escapement fu...

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Citizen s 30th Anniversary Citizen Oct 14, 2025

Best of Both Worlds for The Citizen’s 30th Anniversary

Citizen marks 30 years of its upmarket The Citizen collection with a matching pair of limited-edition 30th anniversary watches with aquiline ivory dials. Representing the best of both worlds, the pair offer Citizen’s best calibres in mechanical and analogue quartz watchmaking: one contains the automatic Caliber 0200, while the other boasts the top of the line, feature-rich Eco-Drive A060. The Citizen Caliber 0200 30th Anniversary Initial Thoughts While little known outside Japan and certain enthusiast circles, the eagle-crested The Citizen watches are arguably the best Citizen has to offer, and also a tantalising value proposition. Both models are good in their own right, though the automatic is the winner here. The Calibre 0200 model is probably the best made-in-Japan integrated bracelet sports watch currently available, combining the impressive case and dial finishing we’ve come to expect from premium Japanese watches, and a significantly more upscale movement than the King Seiko Vanac or Credor Locomotive. The quartz model is appealing, The Citizen has plenty of other quartz offerings with the same movement but more interesting dials. The Citizen Eco-Drive 30th Anniversary Eco-Drive cal. A060 The conical bezel and flat lug chamfers of the Eco-Drive model are flat polished using a spinning tin-plate, creating a near distortion-free mirror finish. A Duratec “Platinum” treatment, with a hardness of over 1,000 Vickers, protects the case and bracelet, and also gives ...

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Vacheron Constantin Brings “The Quest” Exhibition Oct 14, 2025

Vacheron Constantin Brings “The Quest” Exhibition to Singapore

As part of a world tour to mark Vacheron Constantin’s ongoing 270th anniversary, The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence lands in Singapore from October 25 to 26, 2025. After stops in Geneva, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Abu Dhabi, the event will take place at Parkview Square and will be open to the public. The exhibition showcases the brand’s legacy through thematic chapters, featuring both historic timepieces and artifacts as well as an exploration of métiers d’art techniques like guilloché, which are a specialty of the brand. There will also be an immersive astronomical installation that invites guests to reflect on their own passage through time. A highlight of the exhibition is a special tribute to The Berkley Grand Complication, which remains the world’s most complicated mechanical watch, and the only Chinese perpetual calendar. The watch itself will not be present – the owner is an American – but a special display will provide a look inside the masterpiece. The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence takes place over the weekend of October 25-26. Admission is free but attendees are encouraged to register online in advance to reserve their preferred time slot. Parkview Square600 North Bridge Road, 3rd FloorSingapore 188778  

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic E168 or IWC Oct 13, 2025

Longines’ Ultra-Chron Classic is a Double-Certified, High-Beat Chronometer

Longines continues to mine its archive to good effect with the Ultra-Chron Classic, a faithful reissue of the brand’s pioneering high-frequency wristwatch first launched in 1967. The Ultra-Chron Classic is more than just a remake of a vintage watch. While it has a clean, period-correct vintage aesthetic, the mechanics are entirely modern, namely a high-beat, 5 Hz automatic movement that is both COSC chronometer and TIMELAB certified. Initial thoughts Longines does well at bringing back beloved designs from the past, but built to modern standards. The Ultra-Chron Classic is the latest in a long line of historical reissues that began nearly two decades ago with the bestselling Legend Diver. The Ultra-Chron Classic is impressively faithful to the original in style, but because of that, not especially exciting in terms of design, retaining the all-business look that was common among high-performance gentlemen’s wristwatches of the era; the same criticism could be leveled at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic E168 or IWC Ingenieur ref. 666. In other words, the dial, hands, and indices are mostly true to the source material, but this pared-back look may have a harder time standing out in today’s market than it once did. Dressy? Classic? Or plain? Looks aside, the Ultra-Chron Classic is modern Longines at its best: a solid build, a brand-exclusive movement, proper sizing, and sensible pricing. The movement in particular stands out for being notable high-spec with its 36,000 bea...

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Rolex Time Zone Oct 13, 2025

Rolex “Time Zone to Time Zone” GMT-Master II Exhibition in Singapore

Having debuted in Geneva last year, Time Zone to Time Zone now arrives in Singapore come October 24. An exhibition dedicated to the GMT-Master and GMT-Master II, the event is being staged in Singapore by Rolex and retailer Cortina Watch. Slated to run for two weeks, Time Zone to Time Zone takes place in Paragon on Orchard Road, following a stop in Hong Kong earlier in 2025. The exhibition is a journey through the history of the GMT-Master, starting with its origins as a watch for the pilots of Pan Am, the now-defunct American airline that was the world’s largest when the GMT-Master debuted in 1954. Illustrated with period photographs, advertising, and other paraphernalia, the history of the model continues uninterrupted into the modern day with the GMT-Master II. Here the exhibition details the advancements in materials, movements, and manufacturing that make it a Rolex. Hosted by Rolex and Cortina Watch, Time Zone to Time Zone takes place from October 24 to November 2, at the main atrium of Paragon mall located at 290 Orchard Road, Singapore 238859. The exhibition is free and open to the public, but registration is recommended for the 45-minute guided tour. Register online at Cortinawatch.com. Update October 25, 2026: Venue images added.

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MB&F; Oct 13, 2025

SJX Podcast: MB&F; Gives Away Anniversary Editions

On episode 13 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon Moore and SJX discuss MB&F;’s decision to give away 20 free watches – 10 pieces of a new LM101 Longhorn for Tribe members and 10 pieces of a matching M.A.D.1S for prior raffle registrants. It’s a move that’s generated a lot of buzz, and a little bit of consternation, but regardless it’s a remarkable offer from one of the more successful independent brands of its era. Also discussed is the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds which just got upgraded with a new solid 18k pink gold dial. Is it still competitive nearly a decade after launch? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

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Vacheron Constantin Oct 10, 2025

Roger Dubuis Summons Merlin and King Arthur’s Knights

Roger Dubuis continues its decade-long exploration of Arthurian mythos with The Enchanter Merlin, the twelfth iteration in its fantastical Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, and the second Merlin-themed watch in the series. At the heart of the spectacle is a highly architectural dial composed of 56 stepped columns, inspired by the basalt pillars of Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. The columns are rendered in a variety of materials, including Murano glass, vitreous enamel, and invisibly set diamonds. Above them stand 12 hand-engraved knights, each a unique character from the Matter of Britain, the medieval tales of King Arthur and his knights. Initial Thoughts Geneva has a long tradition in the decorative arts dating to the 18th century, mostly focused on enamelled boxes, small clocks, and of course, watches. It’s only natural that a Genevan watchmaker like Roger Dubius would continue that tradition, as do neighbouring Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. In 2013, Roger Dubius launched the first KRT watch with a miniature enamel replica of the famous Round Table in Winchester’s Great Hall. Since then Roger Dubuis has pushed the boundaries of what can be reasonably called a “table” with striking results. While the miniatures were what made the first KRT special, The Enchanter Merlin’s basalt pillar-inspired crystal palace dial could easily stand on its own (perhaps Kollokium should take notes for its next Projekt). The 45 mm case is 18k pink gol...

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Grand Seiko Oct 10, 2025

Seiko Celebrates 75 Years of Peanuts and Snoopy with Vanac SDKV011

Seiko celebrates 75 years of the Peanuts with a King Seiko Vanac Peanuts 75th Anniversary SDKV011, with everyone’s favourite Beagle on a newspaper-inspired dial. Limited to only 150 pieces for Japan only, foreigners will need to get creative if they want one. Initial Thoughts Peanuts is huge in Japan – or more accurately, Snoopy is. Grandberry Park in Tokyo plays host to a three-story tall Snoopy museum that receives several times as many yearly visitors as the Charles M. Schulz Museum in California. It should be no surprise then that the new Vanac is for the Japanese market only, which is unfortunate as it is an appealing watch for a relatively reasonable price. While a bit late to the integrated bracelet sports watch craze since it was only launched earlier this year, the Vanac is competitive in its segment thanks to standout case finishing and a highly competent movement. The new edition retains all the appeal of the standard model; the two-tone dial with gilt accents and Peanuts characters is subtle and a little retro in keeping with the design’s origins. A Snoopified King Seiko King Seiko is a Seiko sub-brand positioned just below the better-known Grand Seiko. The marque emerged from a multi-decade hibernation in 2021. Seiko launched original King Seiko Vanac line during the early 1970s, with sharp angular cases, colourful iridescent dials and faceted crystals – but the latter is missing on the modern Vanac. That absence stings as a faceted crystal would be an...

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Hublot Meca-10 Oct 9, 2025

Daniel Arsham’s Hublot Meca-10 is Fluid, Frosted Sapphire

Following last year’s Arsham Droplet pocket watch, Daniel Arsham has just unveiled his second collaboration with Hublot, the MP-17 MECA-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire. One of the leading artists in pop culture, Daniel Arsham was inspired by the fluidity of a water droplet, explaining the streamlined, pebble-like wristwatch with an intriguing asymmetrical dial framed by a frosted sapphire crystal bezel. Mr Arsham has collaborated with brands as diverse as Porsche and Pokemon, and here he applies his aesthetic to Hublot’s Big Bang Meca-10. While the aesthetic is unlike any other Hublot, the movement inside is familiar: one of Hublot’s most interesting movements, the Meca-10 calibre with a 10-day power reserve, which was just facelifted this year to fit smaller format cases. Initial thoughts The Arsham Splash starts with a good base: the cal. 1205 Meca-10 movement is appealing both in terms of aesthetics and function. The geometric styling of the skeletonised construction is inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy, while the power reserve is an impressive 240 hours. I like much of the movement, except for the Etachron regulator that  I would have hoped Hublot would have replaced in this second-generation Meca-10 movement but it’s still there. Still, the Meca-10 is a logical fit for the Arsham Splash both in terms of form and function. The form of the Arsham Splash is unorthodox. Though the case has some familiar Hublot elements like the flared fl...

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Oct 9, 2025

Museums, Foundations, Archives - The Rise of Swiss Horological Institutions

When I look at the current landscape of watch culture, I see a tension that defines our time. On one side lies the fascination with the way a watch appears on the wrist, and the endless variations of colour and form that drive demand. On the other lies a culture that is older, slower, and infinitely more complex; the science of horology, the mastery of craft, and the knowledge transmitted across centuries. In recent years, I have felt this latter culture slipping into the background, lost beneath the pageantry of style. Yet at the same time, I have witnessed a counter-movement taking shape in Switzerland, a series of initiatives that seek to protect, project, and transmit the deeper culture of watchmaking. I see in them a form of resistance, a refusal to let horology dissolve into an empty shell of design. This is the rise of Swiss horological institutions. The Clockmakers’ Museum in London. Originally displayed at the Guildhall, the collection is now on display at the Science Museum. The early resistance It is worth remembering that Switzerland, for all its dominance in production, did not take the first steps in creating enduring institutions around horology; Britain anticipated this need by centuries. In 1631, Charles I granted a royal charter to the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, giving formal civic recognition to the craft. What began as a guild evolved into a guardian of standards, a keeper of apprenticeships, and eventually the custodian of one of the world’...

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Tudor Oct 8, 2025

Kollokium’s Projekt 02 is for Friends, Family, Fools, and Flippers

On the heels of its successful Projekt 01 with topographical pin dials, Kollokium tries something different, but not too different, with the Projekt 02 FFF&F; Edition, short for “Friends, Family, Fools, and Flippers”. This 199 piece limited edition will first be offered to the original owners of the Projekt 01 F&F;, with the balance available to the public. Initial Thoughts Kollokium will only offer this initial variant of the Projekt 02 to original owners of the first “Friends & Family” edition at a slightly discounted rate – fools and flippers also get to enjoy the lower price presumably. That is a gracious nod to its supporters, but also a smart way to build exposure leading up to the public launch. Projekt 02 takes all the elements that made Projekt 01 a success to build something is still obviously a Kollokium watch, but different enough that neither is redundant. In fact, the Projekt 02 looks very similar at a distance, but is discernibly different in hand, especially with the new case design that feels a little more compact than the original, though it measures essentially the same. The dial also gives off a very different vibe compared to the first model, with the relief motif looking like a military topographical map from a sci-fi movie. The Projekt 02 isn’t really “good value” in the conventional sense (like a high-spec Tudor), but if you ignore spec sheet the watch has a lot to offer for not that much. Besides, Kollokium lacks the economies of scal...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre s Reverso One Oct 8, 2025

Xu Beihong Immortalised in Enamel on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso

One of the most famous Chinese artists of the modern era, Xu Beihong is best known for his ink paintings of horses and birds, which are amongst the most valuable examples of 20th century Chinese art. Three of those equine works have been reproduced in miniature enamel on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Xu Beihong”. Presented in the classic Grande Taille case size, this limited edition trio continues Jaeger-LeCoultre’s longstanding tradition of transforming the case back of the Reverso into a blank canvas for art. Past works that have been miniaturised for the Reverso include Claude Monet’s Venice paintings and Shahnameh, an epic poem of ancient Persia. Initial thoughts Like other miniature enamelled Reversos, the Xu Beihong trio is impressive. The original artworks are already beautiful, and they have been reproduced in exceptionally fine detail. Even if you don’t like the works, the enamelling is clearly top quality. But like the other recent enamel Reversos, the Xu Beihong trio is expensive in comparative terms. The retail price for similar watches was almost half today’s level six years ago. This is not unique to JLC of course. But JLC doesn’t have the cachet, after a few slow years, for such strong pricing, unlike say, Patek Philippe or a hot indie brand. That’s not entirely fair since they are beautiful watches with finely executed miniature enamelling, but it is the state of affairs. Two Horses Horse running and standing Notably, this is ...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre derived calibre found Oct 7, 2025

The Laureato Fifty is a Milestone for Girard-Perregaux

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its most enduring wristwatch design, Girard-Perregaux (GP) has just unveiled the Laureato Fifty, a watch that highlights the brand’s storied history, while asserting the manufacture‘s place in the current competitive market. As expected, the watch is powered by the brand’s new workhorse calibre GP4800, which makes its official debut here. A limited edition of just 200 pieces, the Laureato Fifty is dressed in a two-tone case of steel and yellow gold, echoing the 1975 original. Though this is a one-off limited edition, it is more than likely that this revised Laureato styling will be implemented across the Laureato line in the coming year. Initial thoughts To understand the Laureato Fifty, we must first consider the era to which it pays tribute. The original design of the Laureato, presented to the world in 1975, appeared right between Gerald Genta’s iconic duo of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, launched in 1972 and 1976, respectively. Compared to these designs, which would come to define the category, the Laureato was different in a few respects.  First, the original design is credited to one of GP’s in-house designers, whose name has been lost to time. Second, the original Laureato was cutting edge at the time with its proprietary, chronometer-certified quartz movement, compared to the ultra-thin automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre-derived calibre found in the Royal Oak (and later, the Nautilus). Turning to...

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Cartier Santos Oct 7, 2025

Hands On: The Cartier Santos in End-to-End Titanium

In a first, Cartier has just unveiled the Santos de Cartier LM in titanium. Its flagship sports watch now features a case and matching bracelet in matte, bead-blasted titanium – specifically grade 23 titanium – while retaining all of the other familiar Santos design elements, including the exposed screws and traditional silvered dial. The Santos in titanium is powered by the same industrial 1847 MC movement found in its steel counterpart, and costs about 20% more, but has a great deal more tactile appeal. The watch is large, lightweight, and low-key. Initial thoughts The Santos was originally conceived as a sports watch in 1904, albeit not of the sort known today. The original was an aviator’s watch, but a tiny and thin watch more comparable to a 21st century dress watch. That history, however, meant that Cartier has rolled out several sporty-ish versions of the Santos in the past. It’s surprising that it took Cartier this long to put together a Santos in titanium. The smooth, blasted case finish has a great deal of tactile appeal, and the muted, matte aesthetic is equally appealing. Some might see this as being way too similar to the steel model – the two are indistinguishable at a distance – but that is part of its appeal. Almost twins, titanium (left) with a bead-blasted finish, and steel with a brushed finish and polished bezel Though the material is different, the exterior finishing is almost identical to that of the steel model, except that the brushed fi...

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Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch Oct 6, 2025

Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch with the Monterey

Louis Vuitton returns to its watchmaking roots with a recreation of its first-ever wristwatch, the Monterey. The remake sticks closely to the aesthetics of the original designed by architect Gae Aulenti in 1988, but is made to modern standards. While the original was a design-oriented creation with a high-tech (for the time) quartz movement, today’s Monterey is high-end in every way – case, dial, and movement are all contemporary high horology. Initial Thoughts The Monterey is an unapologetically nostalgic watch, and a yardstick against which Louis Vuitton measures its progress. In 1988, the Parisian malletier made its first foray into the watch market with Montre I, a private label affair produced by IWC and designed by Gae Aulenti. The 1988 watch was an impressive in terms of design and concept, but somewhat dinky in terms of tech: a multifunction quartz watch in gold powered by an IWC quartz movement that is no longer reparable. (It is also worth nothing that follow-up Montre II was clad in ceramic, possibly hinting at a sequel to this limited edition.) Now, Louis Vuitton wants the world to know it can make make a watch itself, only relying on external suppliers for the very most specialised components – and to a much higher standard than the Montre of the past. And the Monterey (a play on the American mispronunciation of montre, French for watch) completely eclipses the original in quality – much like the recent revival of Daniel Roth by Louis Vuitton. The Mont...

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Vacheron Constantin Oct 5, 2025

SJX Podcast: AP Reinvents the Chronograph, Big Brands vs. Indies, and VC CEO

On episode 12 of the SJX Podcast, SJX shares his hands-on impressions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5, the fifth and final watch from the brand’s R&D; skunkworks. We also address listener questions about the (great) leadership at Vacheron Constantin, and whether brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin can gain market share from independents – why not? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

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A. Lange & Sohne Oct 4, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne’s Very-Thin Saxonia Gets an Onyx Makeover

Almost exactly a year after the Lange 1 with an onyx dial, A. Lange & Söhne is following up with the Saxonia Thin Onyx. It’s essentially an upgraded version of Lange’s simplest and most affordable model, replacing the conventional silver dial with one of polished onyx stone. Available in either platinum or Honeygold – each is limited to 200 pieces – the Saxonia Thin Onyx is even more of a formal dress watch than its regular production counterpart. Notably, both variants are unique editions of the model as neither platinum or Honeygold is part of the standard offering. Initial thoughts Last year’s Lange 1 30th Anniversary with an onyx dial was an exceedingly simple but extremely appealing watch. Lange has applied the same formula to the Saxonia Thin with equal success. Admittedly, the makeover isn’t imaginative or novel, but the result is striking. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is utterly simple yet unusually reflective thanks to the polished stone dial. The look and feel is that of an ideal black tie watch. It’s probably a bit too concise and shiny for everyday wear, but I wouldn’t mind one on the wrist. Choosing between the two is difficult. They are very different yet very much the same. Both, in fact, retail for exactly the same. The platinum version has a slight edge for me, simply because of general preference for the metal. The new dial and case metal, however, come at a hefty premium. The standard model in gold retails for a bit under US$25,000, while the o...

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Voutilainen Oct 3, 2025

Voutilainen Squares the Circle With the KV20i Reversed CS

Voutilainen turns the popular three-hand formula inside out to put the movement front and centre, now with a titanium cushion-case for the first time. The KV20i Reversed CS is not revolutionary, instead building on the KV20i Reversed Cherry from last year, but the movement remains one of the best in its segment, with hands, case, and half of a dial to match. Initial Thoughts Kari Voutilainen is a seminal figure in independent watchmaking, partly responsible for the popularity of elaborately decorated three-hand watches with dazzling guilloche dials – and not just because his company, Comblémine, makes a good number of those guilloche dials for other brands. Mr Voutilainen was at least a decade ahead of his time with his Observatoire of 2007, a watch that, alongside Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity, cultivated a market for this format. Nearly two decades later, his watches stand out less aesthetically, but his quality remains superlative – and has even improved. An Observatoire made in 2007, now 18 years old. Image – Phillips The cushion-shaped case is a new variable in a familiar formula, taking after the unique TP1 pocket watch Kari and Venla Voutilainen made for Only Watch 2019. Four prominent security screws hold the case together, and make for a more contemporary aesthetic that works well with Kari’s already pleasantly eclectic style. And for better or worse (depending on the collector’s taste) the Reversed CS leaves ample room for customisation. Beyond the c...

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A. Lange & Sohne Oct 2, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds Pink Gold Dial

A. Lange & Söhne is a serious minded brand that rarely does fancy in terms of dials, so even a simple cosmetic makeover is novel for the brand. That’s true for the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds with a pink gold dial that was just launched earlier this month, applying a striking new look to a technically compelling but arguably under-appreciated watch. Described officially as “pink gold” – it is actually solid gold – the dial is in a shade best known as “salmon”. This gives a vivid, fresh aesthetic to a watch that’s compact and surprisingly complex, combining a regulator-style display with a deadbeat seconds linked to a remontoir, as well as a hacking, zero-reset seconds. Initial thoughts The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds has always been an interesting watch in technical terms; the movement is unusual in function but typical Lange in terms of quality. Calibres like this are tangible illustrations of Lange’s prowess in both engineering and aesthetics when it comes to movements. Despite being relatively complex, the Jumping Seconds is unusually compact for a complicated Lange watch, giving it surprisingly wearable dimensions. This gives the watch tangible and intellectual appeal. But the original versions, both with silver dials, were a little boring. The subsequent version with a black dial was high contrast and more appealing. The latest version with a pink gold dial is the easiest to like. It’s an eye-catching livery that does justice to the mechanics ...

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H. Moser & Cie Oct 1, 2025

Full Throttle at H. Moser & Cie. with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly

A relatively small brand in the big world of international motorsport, H. Moser & Cie. continues its collaboration with the Alpine Formula 1 team with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly, which takes the brand’s distinctive sport watch and adds a warm red gold colourway favoured by Mr Gasly, a French driver racing for Alpine. The Tourbillon Pierre Gasly is offered in two configurations – a 100-piece edition on a rubber strap, and an even more special edition of 10 pieces that features a full 18k red gold bracelet and a subtle baguette ruby at ten o’clock, a detail based on the racing driver’s number. Notably, both were conceived by Mr Gasly himself, who is a fan of the brown-and-red-gold aesthetic. According to Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan, Mr Gasly already owns other watches in this livery. Initial thoughts Celebrity endorsements can, at times, come across as inauthentic, but this type of marketing has been part of the fabric of the luxury watch industry for decades. In fact, it was another Formula 1 star, Jim Clark, who was one of the first official celebrity brand ambassadors for a watch brand, signing on to represent Enicar back in 1966. But while Clark promoted the standard collection of Enicar watches, Mr Gasly had the chance to put his own spin (pun intended) on Alpine team sponsor H. Moser & Cie.’s top-of-the-line sport watch, the Streamliner Tourbillon. Edouard Meylan (left) with Pierre Gasly In many ways the Tourbillon Pierre Gasly is a typ...

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Vacheron Constantin just unveiled Oct 1, 2025

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time

On episode 11 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the monumental La Quête Du Temps astronomical clock that Vacheron Constantin just unveiled in Paris alongside the companion Quest of Time wristwatch. We also tackle Tudor’s first moon phase complication and what it means for the brand’s collection of dress watches. SJX also shares his views on the news that Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour will be giving the keynote at Dubai Watch Week, a move that’s largely unprecedented for the industry’s most impenetrable brand. We also chat about the other big news in the world of watch fairs, Audemars Piguet’s return to Watches & Wonders in 2026. Last but not least, we discuss what Girard-Perregaux’s new movement platform might reveal about the future of the brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

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