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Feb 5, 2026

Roaring Twenties Marque Niton is Born Again

A long defunct Geneva watchmaker, Niton has been revived and is getting off the ground with the Prima, a historically-inspired jump hour watch. With some serious tricks up its sleeve – the proprietary calibre is surprisingly excellent – the Prima might just be the right new-meets-old infusion the watch market needs.  Initial thoughts Bringing back defunct but once illustrious watch manufactures is not a sure thing, and Niton might be more challenging than most given the lack of name recognition. The brand, however, did have a glorious, if short, history. The introductory model of the recently revived brand is the Prima. While the watch takes its inspiration from pieces made in the 1930s, the overall impression is more evocative of retro-futuristic 1960s. Rounded typography, thick indices, and a concentric pattern on the central minutes disk all make for a look that’s equally comforting and refined.  Arguably the best surprise is the in-house NHS01 inside the Prima. A square movement developed in-house, the ambitious, hand-wound NHS01 integrates the jump hour complication with the in-line minutes disk and small seconds display, all while bearing the coveted Poinçon de Genève. Seeing a small independent brand earn the demanding hallmark for its first run of pieces is nothing short of amazing. Both versions of the Prima sit at under the CHF50,000 mark, which places the model in the upper echelons of pricy independent time-only watches. However, one might argue the P...

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Audemars Piguet s Latest Gen Perpetual Feb 4, 2026

Audemars Piguet’s Latest Gen Perpetual Open-Worked or All-Ceramic

Audemars Piguet (AP) debuts a trio of new perpetuals calendars, led by the first open-worked version of brand’s cutting edge perpetual calendar launched last year with the skeleton cal. 7139 inside the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak. And rounding out the trio is the first all-ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar powered by the cal. 7138. Initial Thoughts The open-worked version of AP’s latest-generation perpetual calendar movement arguably does most justice to a clever movement that is one of the most notable such movements on the market. While there was little visual difference between solid-dial versions of AP’s new perpetual calendars and the preceding versions, the open-worked examples are less similar, at least up close, as the perpetual calendar works are so clearly different. The new open-work dial givers owners a look at what is going on under the hood as they adjust the calendar, which I see as a significant value add given the unusual and innovative mechanics. While AP could have been more daring, the last year’s crop of Royal Oak Perpetuals were good looking watches. The new pair, in both Code 11.59 and Royal Oak formats, look nearly identical from an arms length to their predecessors. The open-worked models are mostly monochrome, the Code 11:59 is rhodium-plated white gold with a black ceramic mid-case while the Royal Oak is titanium with polished Palladium 500 bulk-metallic glass (BMG) accents and rose gold dial furniture. Neither break new ground for the b...

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Audemars Piguet Upgrades Feb 4, 2026

Audemars Piguet Upgrades the Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm

Audemars Piguet (AP) updates the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm with a new manufacture calibre, sapphire display back, while slightly tweaking the iconic design – and retaining the price of its predecessor. The new cal. 6401 comes with welcome quality-of-life improvements such as a longer power reserve and instantaneous date without tradeoffs in wearability, beat rate, or even cost, making this compact chronograph one of the most sensible and compelling offerings in the Royal Oak line. Initial Thoughts AP debuted the first Royal Oak chronograph in 1997 and it was powered by the Frederic Piguet cal. 1185, a landmark movement for automatic chronograph design. Now, nearly three decades later, AP is a true industrialised manufacture, and the cal. 1185 has been replaced with the new cal. 6401, a modern movement that with meaningful upgrades under the hood. This also comes with some minute tweaks to the dial and a crowd pleasing display case back, while the case and bracelet remain as excellent as always. Laudably, this comes without a significant price increase, with the new Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm in steel costing only 3.6% more than its predecessor. New Engine AP’s new cal. 6401 is a solidly-spec’ed movement despite being small and thin for a modern chronograph. It’s wide and taller than the Frederic Piguet cal. 1185 but only slightly. It is 27 mm in diameter (up from 26.2 mm) and 5.7 mm tall (up from 5.5 mm) though even with the addition of a sapphire ...

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Audemars Piguet Jumps Retro Feb 4, 2026

Audemars Piguet Jumps Retro with the Neo Frame

Ahead of its much anticipated Watches & Wonders return, Audemars Piguet (AP) has reached deep into its archives for what in past years would have been a [RE]Master model. But now AP has renamed its vintage reissues, and it is the Neo Frame Jumping Hour that takes inspiration from a similar guichet model from 1929. This perfectly timed launch comes at a time of renewed interest in the digital display format. Initial thoughts Each time an established brand launches a completely new collection, the public response can be either positive (think Rolex Land-Dweller) or underwhelming. AP has come face-to-face with this in the past with the Code 11.59, which was bold but not well received initially (though much of the early criticism can be chalked up to cynicism). That experience hasn’t stopped the brand from continuing to diversify its portfolio away from the Royal Oak, and the latest effort capitalises on the growing interest in guichet watches. In doing so, AP reimagines an obscure piece from its own past, adding strong touches of modern design to create something with a more distinctive visual identity than one might expect from a simple jumping hours watch. Though the Neo Frame nomenclature might take a while to enter the vernacular, the guichet design feels like it’s coming to market at the right time. Ironically, the sleek profile of the Neo Frame’s case looks much like a sports smart band - albeit much glossier. Specifically, the way the polished black face connec...

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Audemars Piguet s 150 Heritage Feb 3, 2026

Audemars Piguet’s 150 Heritage is a Universal Cultural Calendar

Audemars Piguet celebrated 150 years of existence in 2025, but its celebrations have continued into the new year with the 150 Heritage Pocket Watch. While many large ultra-complicated pocket watches are exercises in nostalgia, the 150 Heritage is a modern marvel of micro-mechanical engineering with never-before-seen functionality inside a surprisingly compact 50 mm case. Initial thoughts Few brands can match Audemars Piguet’s track record of producing Grand Complication pocket watches, but the 150 Heritage surprises by adapting a calibre originally intended for the wrist. A complicated pocket watch with a simple name, the 150 Heritage is built around the cal. 1150, a newly developed hand-wound movement that adapts the architecture of the ambitious cal. 1000 developed for the Code 11.59 Universelle, and as such it includes past RD-series innovations. That said, the differences between the Universelle and the 150 Heritage are quite significant, thanks to an intriguing new feature: a hinged mechanical calculator, isolated from the movement. The intricate system is housed inside the case back and allows the user to effortlessly cycle through dates across any year to be able to read a surprising number of culturally-relevant dates based on lunar, solar and lunisolar cycles.  The device feels a bit like a time machine, as the lucky owner can go into the past or look into the future and find out the exact dates of Catholic Easter, Ramadan, Equinoxes and many others, along with...

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Vacheron Constantin s Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Feb 3, 2026

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Red Dial

Vacheron Constantin’s latest Overseas Tourbillon pairs a titanium case with a deep red dial, recalling last year’s perpetual calendar, showcasing the cal. 2160 with peripheral rotor, refined finishing, and a slow beating one minute tourbillon. It represents the finest of industrial fine watchmaking with high-end construction inside and out. Initial Thoughts Last August Vacheron Constantin launched a pair of new Overseas Perpetual Calendars, one in burgundy and the other pink-on-pink. I felt the “deep red” dial – as Vacheron Constantin calls it – works particularly well against the white gold case, and the light blue accents were a nice touch. Nothing has changed on that front, the colour pallette looks just as good now as it did then, but is now lighter, thanks to the titanium case, and equipped more impressive movement. While the Overseas Perpetual’s movement somewhat lags behind its competition, the Overseas Tourbillon has a more competitive calibre, which holds its own against the Royal Oak Tourbillons, and wins by default against the non-existent Nautilus Tourbillon. That said, it is hardly a value within its segment, with estimated pricing comparable to Audemars Piguet’s blue-chip Royal Oak Tourbillons, though that is more than fair when you put aside brand caché and focus purely on the product. Case and Bracelet The Overseas case is well made and well finished by any standard, though not quite as complex as its counterparts from Audemars Piguet and P...

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Audemars Piguet Feb 2, 2026

Off-Catalogue No More: Patek Philippe Reveals Gem-Set Nautilus Collection

Today, Patek Philippe updated its website to include a slew of formerly off-catalogue haute joaillerie models. While none are revelations, all being well known, their presence in the catalogue reinforces the brand’s commitment to this segment, and reflects how mainstream, relatively speaking, this once-niche genre has become. This move can probably be traced back to Patek Philippe’s 2022 investment in Salanitro, the gemstone giant behind many high jewellery watches from Hublot to Audemars Piguet. Since then, the brand has placed increased emphasis on gem-set watches across its catalogue, such as the “Rainbow” Aquanaut minute repeaters the following year. In other words, it would seem the brand’s gem-setting capacity has matured enough to advertise these models. Long live the ref. 5711 Patek Philippe nominally discontinued the ref. 5711 in 2022, though its many off-catalogue variants escaped that fate. Since 2013, Patek Philippe has offered the platinum ref. 5711/1P-010 to its most important clients, while keeping it out of the official catalogue, but the model’s gem-set siblings are now officially part of the Patek Philippe lineup. The configuration of each of the four references is identical, with a gem-set bezel, baguette-cut hour markers, and a stone-matched centre seconds hand. The stones are approximately the same size across all four models, but the carat weight differs because of the density of the stones. As a result, the ref. 5711/110P-001 features 4.0...

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Louis Vuitton x De Bethune LVDB-03 Feb 2, 2026

Hands On: Louis Vuitton x De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project

Following collaborations with Rexhep Rexhepi and Kari Voutilainen, Louis Vuittion turns to De Bethune’s Denis Flageollet for its biggest independent collaboration to date, both literally and figuratively. The release spans two timekeepers - the first is the LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius, a heat-blued titanium wristwatch that can be wound and set by the LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius, an ambitious métiers d’art Sympathique clock. Initial thoughts Having worked on Sympathique clocks for Breguet during his spell at Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) in the 1990s, Mr Flageollet revisits the concept on his own terms. De Bethune is one of the few independent brands with its own clockmaking workshop, which is a testament to Mr Flageollet’s experience gained at THA. The Sympathique clock is finely wrought, with several charming artistic flourishes embodying De Bethune’s house style with a generous use of blued titanium. While this Sympathique arguably is a historical tribute rather than state-of-the art, it is nonetheless easier to use than its antecedents, with a simplified docking process that doesn’t require the watch’s strap to be removed. In terms of usability, this Sympathique is arguably the most advanced to date; moreover, both clocks can be paired with any of the watches in the series, an interchangeability underlining the precision of make that was absent in historical Sympathique clocks. Denis Flageollet at the launch event in Tokyo. The massive ornam...

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Feb 2, 2026

Complicated Collectors: Cecil Clutton

The 1908 Itala came alive on the Silverstone grid with a sound like controlled thunder. Cecil Clutton, known to his friends as Sam, settled into the bucket seat, his hands finding their positions on the massive steering wheel. He was 63 years old; the car was a year older. Around them, sleeker machines like the Bugatti Type 35 and ERAs growled in anticipation. The other drivers wore modern racing kits; Clutton wore a tie. He dropped the clutch. The 12-litre engine roared as the rear wheels bit into the tarmac. Through Copse Corner, the car drifted wide, and Clutton held the line by feel; the steering wheel transmitted every message from the road surface through his palms. With Clutton at the wheel, the Itala crossed the line in third place; eminently respectable for a car that predated the First World War by six years. But Clutton was no ordinary racing driver, having been appointed a Commander of the Order of the British Empire for work rendered to the Crown Estate; his family founded the real estate firm Cluttons in the late 18th century. The CBE acknowledged his professional achievements in surveying, but by then his influence extended far beyond property management. He had already served as President of the Vintage Sports-Car Club from 1954 to 1957, published foundational texts on vintage motoring, established himself as a leading voice in the British Organ Reform Movement, and begun building what would become recognised as one of Britain’s finest collections of prec...

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Swatch Jan 30, 2026

Masterpieces of Modernism: Swatch Debuts Guggenheim Collaboration

Having previously collaborated with almost every major art museum in the world, from MoMA to the Louvre, Swatch has licensed four masterpieces of 20th-century art from the Guggenheim, including works on display in New York and Venice. Accessibly priced, non-limited and available online, the Swatch x Guggenheim collection brings works from Monet, Degas, Klee, and Pollock to a wrist near you. Initial thoughts Painted dials have a long history in watchmaking, but the difficult nature of the work meant that for most of history they remained out of reach for all but the wealthiest clientele. While hand-painted dials are vanishingly rare and breathtakingly expensive, modern production methods mean that legendary masterpieces can now be easily scaled down and mass produced. Swatch was a pioneer in this regard, introducing its first artist collaboration with Kiki Picasso in 1985, just two years after the company launched its revolutionary plastic watch. The Picasso collaboration was the first of many, and since then there’s hardly a major art museum that hasn’t licensed selected works to Swatch. The works selected for this collaboration come from two different Guggenheim collections. Three of them are famously on display at the Guggenheim New York, while the fourth may be seen at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice. The odd-looking double-length seconds hand is an homage to this transatlantic duality. The Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice. Functionally, the four quar...

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Angelus Jan 29, 2026

Monochrome Monopusher: The Montre de Souscription 5 by Angelus

On the heels of its sold-out collaboration with Habring² back in December, Monochrome is back with a vintage-oriented monopusher chronograph in collaboration with Angelus. The Montre de Souscription 5 Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre (MdS5) is a subtle riff on the brand’s Chronographe Télémètre, which walked away with the Chronograph Prize at least year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Initial thoughts I had the chance to see the MdS5 on the wrist of Monochrome founder Frank Geelen during Dubai Watch Week, and the watch makes a statement with its compact proportions. In fact, it could almost pass for a vintage watch. While historical reissues are made in abundance, they are often unnecessarily up-sized to suit modern tastes. At just 37 mm, the MdS5 has a tidy footprint on the wrist, and the 9.25 mm case height makes for a low profile. Interestingly, the watch could actually be a little smaller, given the compact proportions of the La Joux-Perret A5000, a manually wound monopusher chronograph movement descended from a construction first developed at THA by independent watchmaking royalty, including François-Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter. This lineage gives the movement cachet, though the La Joux-Perret movement is in reality a distant relation of the THA (and Jaquet) original. As a souscription series, as many as 20 pieces of the MdS5 will be made, assuming enough demand, with a non-refundable deposit due up front. The watch goes o...

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Piaget Polo 79 Two-Tone Having Jan 28, 2026

Eighties Luxe: Piaget Polo 79 Two-Tone

Having already launched it in yellow gold and then white gold, Piaget has logically followed up with the Polo 79 Two-Tone. While very much predictable, the Polo 79 Two-Tone is arguably the best looking of the trio with its retro combination of metals that are yellow and white gold, and not steel. The new Polo 79 is otherwise identical to its predecessors, right down to the cal. 1200P movement and “slotted” construction of the case and bracelet. Initial thoughts The Polo 79 Two-Tone isn’t a surprise but it’s a good looking watch that has more appeal than its single-colour counterparts. The combination of yellow and white gold feels distinctly 1980s and true to the spirit of the watch. Though not imaginative, the Polo 79 is solidly executed in any of its forms. The case and bracelet are done well, while the cal. 1200P is a tried-and-tested workhorse that is also impressively thin; it’s a little industrial but acceptable overall. The cal. 1200P The fact that the two-tone model is two colours of gold, rather than steel and gold, is a nice touch. But that means it is expensive, even more expensive than the single-tone versions that are already pricey. This costs US$91,000, while the yellow gold model is US$77,000. The price premium doesn’t really make sense since it’s essentially the same thing in terms of gold value and finishing (though it is arguable that white gold costs a little more than yellow). The Polo 79 line-up Polo glamour The two-tone Polo is hardly a...

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Patek Philippe Museum Mr Delaloye personally Jan 28, 2026

Mermont’s La Parfaite Goes Platinum

Startup independent brand Mermont has just made its public debut with the heavyweight La Parfaite, translating as “perfect one” in French. Assembled and adjusted by independent watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, La Parfaite is among the most affordable platinum watches on the market, despite its contemporary case size and upscale construction. Initial thoughts At first glance, Mermont’s debut watch could pass for a handsome, stainless steel Breguet Souscription homage, probably priced accordingly. However, La Parfaite is not stainless steel, it is (mostly) platinum – and surprisingly affordable. Sebastien Bey-Haut, a watch and photography enthusiast, founded the brand, enlisting none other than Nicolas Delaloye, a Genevan watchmaker and AHCI member, to bring it to life. Though less commercially successful than some of his peers, Mr Delaloye is a respected independent watchmaker who spent eight years with the Patek Philippe Museum. Mr Delaloye personally polishes the single hour hand, performs final adjustment, and cases up the watches. It’s unusual for an upstart brand to debut with a precious metal watch, but that’s exactly what Mermont has done. But that hasn’t stopped the brand from focusing on the value proposition, pricing the La Parfaite well below industry norms for a platinum watch, especially a full size mechanical watch. Priced at CHF10,998 before taxes, La Parfaite is a full 38 mm in diameter and certainly among the least expensive mechanical platinum wa...

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Vacheron Constantin s Masterpiece Jan 27, 2026

Face Value: Why Painting on Watch Dials is Art

Fine watches have pulled double duty as decorative objects since before the invention of the hairspring in 1675. In this sense, one could almost argue that watches have been linked to art since before they were even watches in the modern sense. This relationship emerged early in part because both types of objects were made primarily for the same clientele: wealthy elite in Europe and elsewhere. Though art and watches exist for different reasons, they are both often created with eternity in mind. The noble materials and timeless designs of many fine watches, especially those of the quality that would normally be paired with a work of art, also help justify the painstaking (and costly) work of artisanal decoration, which can, in some cases, take more than a year for a single work of miniature art. Introduction to miniature painting Of all the forms of decoration that have been applied to watches, miniature paintings are an especially important genre. Historically, these miniature masterpieces have been produced primarily in enamel, though acrylic paint is increasingly used today. Much has been written about the art of miniature painting, and it would not be an exaggeration to call it a dying art, since the number of living practitioners seems to have rarely exceeded half a dozen at any given time over the past century. Vacheron Constantin’s Masterpiece on Your Wrist programme is a partnership with the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York that allows customers to commissi...

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Audemars Piguet Inaugurates Arc Manufacture Jan 26, 2026

Audemars Piguet Inaugurates Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus

Audemars Piguet (AP) has formally inaugurated the Arc Manufacture in its historical home of Le Brassus. Designed by de Giuli & Portier of Geneva, the 23,700-square metre building will accommodate 700 employees under one roof - a number that would have been almost unheard of in the days of the historical établissage system. It connects to, and partially wraps around, the existing Manufacture des Forges, which was completed in 2008 and housed around 300 employees - an impressive figure for its time. The expanded manufacture should ultimately help boost production, especially considering it was designed with Industry 4.0 in mind. In other words, it’s a smart factory. This includes a Goods-to-Person (GTP) automated sort and retrieval system which uses 66 robots to pick the needed components, which are then delivered by robotic shuttle. While such systems are already used by high-volume luxury watch brands like Rolex and Omega, few haute horlogerie brands have the volumes to justify such an investment. According to AP, the GTP system saves an average of 15 seconds per operation. But more than scale, the new manufacture should deliver higher quality of product – namely superior reliability and less defects – across AP’s offerings. Like other new manufactures of its type, the Arc is extremely energy efficient as well thanks to 321 metres of electrochromic glass, which can automatically change opacity to regulate the amount of light, and heat, allowed in. The building...

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Jan 26, 2026

SJX Podcast: Perfectly Impractical

Episode 27 of the SJX Podcast opens the archives to find the most impractical and illegible watches that somehow still manage to be worthwhile despite the triumph of form over function. It’s a difficult formula to get right, and the landscape of fine watchmaking is littered with examples of watches that sacrificed too much at the altar of fashion. But those that strike the right balance are especially memorable. SJX and Brandon also discuss a couple of emerging independents from as far afield as Japan and Finland. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.    

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Rolex Reveals Daytona Jan 23, 2026

Rolex Reveals Daytona for Winner of 24 Hours of Daytona

Many collectors wait months, or even years, to get ‘the call’ to come pick up their Rolex Daytona. But in Daytona Beach, Florida on Sunday, one lucky individual will take delivery after waiting just 24 hours. Of course, there’s a catch: they must win one of the most grueling endurance races in all of motor sport: The Rolex 24 at Daytona. In other words, it’s not exactly a day at the beach. A day before the green flag is set to fly, Rolex has taken the wraps off this year’s trophy. Curiously, it’s not a ‘Le Mans’ edition, which features a cleverly constructed 24-hour elapsed time sub-dial, but rather a standard two-tone Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126503 with a one-of-a-kind engraving on the case back - a configuration that’s been awarded to the race champion going back to at least 2017. The ‘Daytona’ Daytona Rolex has been associated with a 4.2-mile stretch of hard-packed sand on the Atlantic ocean for nearly a century. The unique conditions of Daytona Beach made it the home of speed in the early 20th century, where several land speed records were broken. The brand’s first testimonee from the world of motor sport, Sir Malcom Campbell, was arguably the king of Daytona Beach, setting a record of 438 kmh in 1933 while wearing a Rolex Oyster. Rolex’s first motor sport testimonee Sir Malcolm Campbell on Daytona Beach in 1935. Image © Bettmann/CORBIS Rolex deepened its association with Daytona in 1963 by naming its chronograph collection after the famous...

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Blancpain s Chinese Calendar Meets Jan 23, 2026

Blancpain’s Chinese Calendar Meets “Salmon” Grand Feu Enamel

Now an annual affair, Blancpain has just released the Villeret Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel 2026 for the year of the fire horse arriving on February 17, 2026. Though it’s based on a longstanding model, the 2026 edition is dressed in striking new livery. A 50-piece limited edition in platinum with a salmon-coloured grand feu enamel dial, the Calendrier Chinois marks the Year of the Fire Horse in a way that few brands can: with a fully-mechanical Chinese calendar complication. Initial thoughts Building a traditional Chinese calendar complication on wristwatch scale was a real first back in 2012 when Blancpain first unveiled the Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel. While many brands introduce yearly limited editions to honour each year’s symbol of the Chinese zodiac, Blancpain’s annual edition is elevated by a thematic sincerity that comes along with the dedicated complication. This specific edition aside, the Blancpain Chinese calendar is notable and interesting for being one of the few such calendars on the market. It’s a technical achievement and is further upgraded with Blancpain’s patented under-lug correctors for the calendar. The defining colour of the 2026 Chinese calendar comes from its warm, salmon-tone dial. Executed in milky grand feu enamel, the dial is as glossy as ever, and features twin Blancpain ‘secret signatures’ on the lower half of the dial. The often underrated Villeret collection is one of the subtler gems in modern high horology, and it is...

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Baume & Mercier Jan 22, 2026

Richemont Unloads Baume & Mercier

Today Richemont confirmed the rumoured sale of its entry-level Baume et Mercier brand to the Damiani Group, a key distributor of the brand in Italy through its retail chain Rocca. While Baume et Mercier is understood to not be profitable, the acquisition should give Baume et Mercier the home-field advantage, as Italy is one of the most important markets for the brand today. According to the Baume et Mercier website, 325 stores in Italy carry the brand, compared to just 150 in France, 130 in the United States, and only 66 in Mainland China. A leaner Baume et Mercier focused on the Italian market, in the same vein as Eberhard & Co., is likely in the long-term, but in the meantime it must be untangled from Richemont. The deal is expected to close this summer, after which Richemont will provide “operational services” for the brand for at least 12 months. It is unclear whether the brand’s “Baumatic” movements with 5-day power reserves will survive the transition, as there are made by ValFleurier - Richemont’s counterpart to ETA. For more information, visit Richemont.com.  

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Grand Seiko Brings Shibuya Jan 22, 2026

Grand Seiko Brings Shibuya to Singapore

Grand Seiko’s flagship boutique in Singapore is host to Tokyo Time, an event designed to bring the vibrancy of Tokyo into the heart of Singapore. Thematically, the event focuses on the people of the world’s largest city experiencing the flow of time. As explained by Ida Idris-Low, Managing Director of Grand Seiko APAC, “Tokyo is defined by a beautiful intricacy – eight distinct districts moving in tandem, each with its own culture and cadence”. Ref. SLGH0055 White Birch in Kagurazaka. Image – Seiko Watch Corp / Gregory Harris In order to capture this, the brand enlisted New Zealand-based photographer Gregory Harris to shoot each watch in situ. The pop-up seeks to connect eight Grand Seiko watches to eight parts of Tokyo. For example, Mr Harris shot the Tentagraph ref. SLGC001 in Toyosu, a man-made island home to the world’s largest wholesale fish market. The Icefall ref. SBGH347 was paired with Roppongi, known for its museums by day and clubs by night. Ginza’s champion is the Evolution 9 U.F.A. Ice Forest ref. SLGB003 – Grand Seiko’s most significant launch of last year. Ref. SBGW301 in Daikanyama. Image – Seiko Watch Corp / Gregory Harris Hosted by Grand Seiko, Tokyo Time takes place from January 16-29 at the brand’s Marina Bay Sands boutique. The exhibition is free and open to the public without registration. For more information visit the dedicated page on Grand-Seiko.com.  

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Omega Seamaster 300M Milano Cortina Jan 22, 2026

Fresh Ice: The Omega Seamaster 300M Milano Cortina

The Olympic Games are just around the corner, which means Omega is getting ready to time 116 events in 16 different disciplines as the Games’ official timekeeper, a title the brand has held throughout much of the past century. That association has resulted in a long line of increasingly tasteful commemorative watches, including the Seamaster Diver 300M Milano Cortina, which applies discreet Olympics branding to an appealing new white ceramic iteration of the Seamaster. Initial thoughts It’s hard to see the Seamaster Milano Cortina as an entirely new watch since an almost identical black version was released back in 2021. That said, the snow white ceramic cements the connection to the upcoming Winter Olympics, due to be held jointly by Milan and Cortina. A common critique of ceramic is that it can look like plastic; I find this to be especially true when it comes to glossy white ceramic. This is where the emblematic Seamaster case and the industrial prowess of Omega pay dividends. The case is sculpted exactly like its stainless steel counterparts, with contrasting brushed and polished finishes that distinguish it as a premium product. The milky white material is complemented by grade 5 titanium, which is used for the bezel frame, both crowns, the solid case back, and the pin buckle. The ceramic bezel insert is deeply relief-engraved by laser, giving it a satisfying tactility that is all the more appealing considering the ageless properties of ceramic. Naturally, the Se...

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A. Lange & Sohne Jan 21, 2026

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold

A. Lange & Söhne launched the Odysseus Honeygold last year and it’s easily the brand’s most luxe sports watch. Presented end to end in 18k Honeygold, this Odysseus is impressively well made, impressively heavy, and impressively expensive. I recently got the chance to spend some time with one of the 100 pieces made, and it was certainly a good experience. Initial thoughts The Odysseus was never a pretty watch, and this isn’t more visually appealing than the titanium or steel version. The design doesn’t have the finesse of its rivals, most notably the Royal Oak or Nautilus. But the Odysseus does have tactile and intellectual appeal, and that translates into physical attraction. The Odysseus is impressive like many Lange watches are thanks to its build quality. In Honeygold it looks and feels even more luxurious. The warmth and weight of the metal give it greater appeal, in fact Honeygold gives this a large-yacht-on-the-Mediterranean type of feel that its counterparts in more common metals lack. Look and feel aside, this has all of the strengths and weakness of the earlier versions. Strengths include the quality of course, as well as good ergonomics, which matter more here because of the weight. One of the weaknesses is the clasp, which is practical and easy to operate, but a little too large for a sports watch that is also supposed to be elegant. With a price tag of US$110,000, the Odysseus Honeygold is very expensive for what it is, even by Lange standards. But wha...

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MB&F; Jan 20, 2026

Sequential Sequel: The MB&F; LM Sequential Flyback EVO

MB&F; has updated its EVO line with an aquamarine version of Stephen McDonnell’s ingenious double chronograph, freshly upgraded with the flyback functionality first seen in the classic Legacy Machine Sequential. The Legacy Machine Sequential Flyback EVO is a tough titanium timer suited to the rigours of daily wear thanks to its shock-protected and water resistant case and supple rubber strap. Initial thoughts MB&F; has enjoyed enormous success over the last few years, and while the rising tide of interest in independent watchmaking has lifted most major brands, it helps that MB&F;’s products are excellent and original. While the brand rarely dabbles in traditional complicated watchmaking, its first two forays – the LM Perpetual and Sequential, both designed by Stephen McDonnell – are standouts in their categories. The Sequential in particular is among the most interesting and creative chronographs on the market. This latest iteration applies the movement’s latest upgrades, principally the flyback function, to a sporty, titanium, Legacy Machine EVO case, which comes with enhanced shock and water resistance. Despite these tangible upgrades, the EVO Sequential is no larger than its dressier precious metal Legacy Machine counterparts. That’s a good thing, since the watch has a commanding, almost overwhelming presence on the wrist as it is. One of the benefits of the EVO case, compared to that of the classic LM, is the presence of a FlexRing shock absorber that provide...

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Richard Mille than Jan 20, 2026

SJX Podcast: Best of LVMH Watch Week

Episode 26 of the SJX Podcast breaks down the best releases from LVMH Watch Week, which saw the return of the hand-painted Escale Worldtime. The slate of releases also includes a surprising new men’s watch from Tiffany & Co. powered by the Zenith El Primero, and the first all-new model from the modern era of Daniel Roth. Things are looking up for TAG Heuer as well, which launched a regular production version of the Seafarer with vintage-leaning ‘Intrepid Teal’ accents, and a new top-of-the-line Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph that has more in common with the likes of Richard Mille than the rest of the Carrera line-up. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

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Louis Vuitton Jan 19, 2026

Tiffany & Co. Reboots Men’s Watches with the Tiffany Timer

Since taking over Tiffany & Co. in 2020, LVMH has gradually revamped the American jeweller, starting with its retail stores and jewellery. The reboot of its watchmaking division has proceeded more slowly, and with jewelled ladies’ watches first. Now Tiffany & Co. has finally turned to men’s watches with the Tiffany Timer, a chronograph powered by the Zenith El Primero 400 movement. With a dial lacquered in Tiffany’s trademark blue, the Tiffany Timer is easily recognisable. And on the back, the movement gets a hand-engraved, solid gold “Bird on a Rock” on the rotor. The Tiffany Timer is a promising start, but the jeweller clearly still has a long way to go to compete with its rivals, or even luxury marques like Louis Vuitton and Chanel. Initial thoughts The Tiffany Timer has a few things in its favour, but isn’t quite good enough. The design is classical and appealing, though a little generic. Granted, the dial might seem a bit much, but for a small-run edition it makes sense. The baguette diamond indices on the Tiffany Blue dial are a nice touch, as is the “Bird on the Rock” on the rotor; both add a touch of luxe to the watch. The El Primero adds horological credibility, but only up to a degree. The El Primero is a historical movement with many strengths, but the El Primero isn’t quite high-end enough for a watch of this price. It would make more sense in an affordable, steel version of the Tiffany Timer that is presumably in the works. All in all the Tif...

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Louis Vuitton s Tambour Converges Jan 19, 2026

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Converges on Guilloché

Louis Vuitton iterates on last year’s surprise launch with the Tambour Convergence Guilloché. The brand’s unexpectedly elegant take on the montre à guichets now gains an engine-turned decor on its front. Initial thoughts  Louis Vuitton (LV) surprised when it unveiled the Convergence last year. Not necessarily the sort of watch one would expect from Louis Vuitton, the Convergence was a strong sign of the brand’s pivot towards in-house manufacturing and more creative high horology. The Convergence was chic and unique, leaning more into the craft of watchmaking, compared to the sportier Tambour on a bracelet. And the LFT MA01.01 inside serves as a good example of what time-only movements inside watches above a certain price point should be like.  The Convergence Guilloché builds on the appeal of the original. By using a radial, wavy decoration executed on a hand-operated rose engine, LV has kept the 1930s allure of the Convergence while adding value in terms craftsmanship with the hand-applied engine turning. And the engine turning is not merely an aesthetic feature but also experiential. Guillochage is typically found on dials, shielded behind glass, so the tactile interaction with the rose-cut pattern on the case is certainly interesting. While this is probably not the best idea for wear-resistance, it is beautiful and historical. Guillochage was traditionally meant to be experienced in a tactile manner: pocket watches in the past were often engine turned in or...

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Louis Vuitton Elevates Jan 19, 2026

Louis Vuitton Elevates the Escale Minute Repeater

Louis Vuitton sharpens its haute horlogerie credentials with the Escale Minute Repeater, a chiming complication paired with a jump hour and retrograde minutes display. Built around La Fabrique du Temps’s proven minute repeater calibre, the watch trades the previous Escale minute repeater’s world time function for a cleaner, more focused dial dominated by grey flammé guilloché. The result puts Louis Vuitton in direct competition with established players in complicated watchmaking, and comes complete with a discreet repeater slide hidden within the signature trunk-inspired lugs. Initial thoughts On the back of a strong 2025, Louis Vuittion doubles down on haute horlogerie, now in a more traditional case than last year’s Tambour. While the brand still offers the quartz Tambour Street Diver for just a few thousand dollars, Louis Vuittion’s ambitions clearly lie in the high-end. After years of strategic acquisitions and investments, the brand has the industrial base to compete and the know-how to do things its own way. The Escale Minute Repeater is the embodiment of Louis Vuitton’s ambitions, and is competitive with other minute repeaters from established haute horlogerie brands thanks to its modern movement and tasteful details. In short, it shows the brand understands the tastes of the day, and, more importantly, how to deliver a compelling package that leans into Louis Vuitton’s unique legacy and brand DNA. Furthermore, the minute repeater is something of a s...

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TAG Heuer s Carrera Seafarer TAG Jan 19, 2026

A Rising Tide Lifts TAG Heuer’s Carrera Seafarer

TAG Heuer rides the vintage reissue wave with the Carrera Seafarer, a chronograph that tracks the tides with a quirky mechanical complication originally developed for the American retailer Abercrombie & Fitch in the early 1950s. Delivered in the brand’s popular ‘Glassbox’ case, the sun-bleached aesthetic features a champagne-coloured dial and Intrepid Teal accents to capture the spirit of mid-century maritime instruments in a modern, wearable package. Initial thoughts  The past year has shown that TAG Heuer is doubling down on technical credibility. The brand launched carbon hairsprings that are now ready for mass production as an alternative to silicon hairsprings, and the brand has also regained the coveted position as the official timekeeper of Formula 1. Furthering its bid to recapture lost magic, the Seafarer is a modern Carrera ‘Glassbox’ infused with the immense charm of the original Seafarer models signed by Abercrombie & Fitch. The Carrera Seafarer is powered by the modern TH20-04 movement, derived from the TH20-00, that’s been tweaked to show the times of high and low tide using a mechanism likely adapted from a moon phase indictor. While still reliant on the simplistic concept developed for the 1950s models, the complication’s gear ratios have been refined and modernised by TAG Heuer engineers.  As a result, the Seafarer displays the local tide times for a given place, serving as a proper tool watch for birdwatchers, anglers and fishermen in gene...

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TAG Heuer Debuts Track-Ready Carrera Split-Seconds Jan 19, 2026

TAG Heuer Debuts Track-Ready Carrera Split-Seconds

Having recently given the Monaco a rattrapante makeover, TAG Heuer has unveiled the Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph, the first-ever split-seconds chronograph in the history of the storied Carrera line-up. The watch combines the brand’s contemporary ‘glassbox’ case design with the Vaucher-derived TH81-01 movement, the only split-seconds calibre in production capable of tenth-of-a-second resolution. Built of grade 5 titanium inside and out, the Carrera Split-Seconds is positioned as both a technical showcase and a halo product for the brand. Initial thoughts It’s more than a little surprising that the Carrera, one of the most storied names in sports chronographs, has never been made in a split-seconds variant until now. In the vintage era, many of Heuer’s peers introduced split-seconds chronographs with movements sourced from Valjoux, which also supplied the ebauches for the Carrera, which suggests the technology was well within reach. That said, the Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph is arguably worth the wait, marrying the contemporary glassbox case design with the one of the only split-seconds chronograph calibres capable of tenth-of-a-second resolution. It’s a coherent product in more ways than one, carrying on the brand’s history of commercialising third-party calibres in design-forward, performance-oriented watches. In terms of design, the Carrera Split-Seconds feels more refined than the Monaco Split-Seconds, avoiding the superfluous “rattrapante” a...

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Hublot Honours Hardcourt GOAT Novak Jan 19, 2026

Hublot Honours Hardcourt GOAT Novak Djokovic with a Big Bang Tourbillon

Celebrating the career of Serbian tennis star Novak Djokovic, Hublot has gone to astonishing lengths to infuse the Big Bang Tourbillon Novak Djokovic GOAT Edition with clever and amusing tennis-related touches. From the case material to the shape of the tennis ball-inspired screw heads, few details were overlooked, making it a worthy tribute to the 24-time Grand Slam champion considered by many to be the greatest of all time. Available in three different colours, each inspired by a different tennis surface, the Big Bang GOAT is not (yet) a limited edition, since production volume is tied directly to the number of wins Mr Djokovic racks up on each surface. Today that number stands at 101 across all three versions, but this will probably increase little by little until his retirement. Initial thoughts Many large luxury brands maintain a stable of superstar athletes as ambassadors, and most also produce limited edition watches in their names. This practice has been around long enough to seem commonplace, but few brands have taken to the task with the ambition and creativity evident in the Big Bang GOAT. While the watch will naturally appeal most to deep-pocketed fans of Novak Djokovic, the tennis theme is fairly subtle, at least on the front. In other words, it’s a good looking watch in its own right, and might also appeal to fans of Hublot with only a passing interest in tennis. The 44 mm Big Bang case is a blend of advanced composites, some infused with the tennis star...

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