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A. Lange & Sohne Mar 16, 2021

Conversation: Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of A. Lange & Söhne

Having taken charge in A. Lange & Söhne at the end of 2010 – while the brand was still suffering from the effects of the 2007-2008 Financial Crisis – Wilhelm Schmid has now been the German watchmaker’s chief executive for a bit over a decade. He did not join Lange from within watchmaking, instead he was recruited from a German luxury brand of another sort, the carmaker BMW. But in the decade since Mr Schmid has carefully and steadily developed the brand, and in the process become one of the longest-tenured – and highly regarded – leaders in the watch industry. From its modern-day foundation in 1994, Lange made watches of first-class quality. That, along with the ethos of the brand, has been preserved, but at the same time, Mr Schmid has deftly evolved the brand’s image, in both product and communication – the Odysseus being an obvious example – bringing its peerless quality recognition amongst a broader audience. The brand’s success in recent years has translated into robust demand for its products – a good problem to have but one that Mr Schmid apologises for, as you’ll find out below. I spoke with Mr Schmid over Zoom last month, and enjoyed a wide ranging conversation that looked back on the last 10 years, as well as forward, where he notes e-commerce is now a certainty for Lange, but online exclusives are not. Zooming with the Odysseus The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: How has Lange been coping with the disruptions of 2020? Wil...

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Seiko Remakes Mar 16, 2021

Seiko Remakes the Mountaineer’s Watch of 1959

A longtime fan favourite, the modern-day Alpinist is synonymous with a forest-green dial and inner rotating bezel. But the origins of the model date to 1959, when Seiko introduced the first Alpinist as part of the Laurel brand. Today’s Alpinist has evolved a long way from the original, but now Seiko has returned the watch to its roots with a “re-creation” of the 1959 design. The 1959 Alpinist Re-creation is a somewhat faithful remake of the first Alpinist that was conceived as no-frills watch for mountaineers. At the same time, Seiko is also unveiling the simpler and more affordable The 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-interpretation. The vintage original of 1959 Initial thoughts Because it’s very much a mid-20th century design, the Alpinist reissues have a good blend of sportiness and elegance. The round cases are compact, giving them a slightly a dressy feel, but the dials are simple and legible, along with a more-than-capable watch case with substantial water resistance. The best thing about the watch is its design, which is minimalist but not plain. The markers are oversized and slightly decorative, and matched with a minute track that evokes a sector dial. Just 36.6 mm wide, the Re-creation is particularly good looking with its symmetrical layout and deep, glossy black finish. It also avoids the faux-vintage colour palette, resulting in a look that is retro but refreshingly modern. That said, its date window is squeezed between four and five o’clock, which is a l...

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F.P. Journe Dual Dufour Duality Much Mar 11, 2021

Independent Watchmaking Showcased Virtually

A leader retailer of independent watchmaking, Singapore-based The Hour Glass has just inaugurated The Persistence of Memory, a virtual exhibition dedicated to the craft. Covering the period starting from 1970 till today, the exhibition encompasses most of the key figures in independent watchmaking during those five decades. And it is about people, rather than brands, since these timepieces are often, quite literally, the creation of a watchmaker’s mind and hands. I wrote most of the content, and it was written as a brisk journey through the careers of each watchmaker, along with their most important timepieces. The Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain Hosted on a dedicated site, the exhibition is arranged into sections and largely chronological, tracing the evolution of the craft from its start with individuals like George Daniels, to the stars of today, most notably Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia. Other boldface names in the exhibition include Francois-Paul Journe, Kari Voutilainen, Philippe Dufour, and Denis Flageollet. A trio of Resonance by F.P. Journe Dual Dufour Duality Much of the content is illustrated by uncommon and special watches – over 150 in fact – drawn from collections around the world. The line up of timepieces include the two landmark pocket watches by George Daniels, the Space Traveller I and Grand Complication, as well as the most important examples of Philippe Dufour’s work. Visit the exhibition on Thehourglass.com.  

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Urwerk UR-100V T-Rex Mar 10, 2021

Living With: Urwerk UR-100V T-Rex

The sixth variant of Urwerk’s entry-level model, the UR-100V T-Rex is classical Urwerk in form and complication. But the UR-100 in general is simpler and smaller than the average Urwerk, although the T-Rex is more extreme than the average Urwerk in terms of aesthetics. The heavy patina on the pronounced hobnail-milled case is primeval and lives up to its name. Urwerk lent me an example to wear for a couple of days – I was grateful especially since I got to compare it with the brand’s earlier, and heavier, models – and here’s how it went. The T-Rex of 2021 (left), next to the UR-103 of two decades ago Initial thoughts Reasonably compact, thin, and lightweight, the UR-100 is probably the most easily wearable Urwerk wristwatch to date. It’s also the closest to being a conventional watch – though it is still far from a conventional watch – which perhaps explains some of its wearability. And it is very wearable, particularly compared to precious-metal models. Not only is it light and manageable in size, the shape of the case back helps it sit better on the wrist. Being essentially the same watch, the T-Rex wears just as well as the other versions of the UR-100. Compared to most other Urwerk models, the UR-100 feels almost like an ordinary watch on the wrist. The recent UR-220 comes close because it is surprisingly lightweight, but it’s still a noticeably larger watch. And the T-Rex is equally as functional as other Urwerk watches with the satellite-disc time...

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Cartier Debuts Mar 10, 2021

Cartier Debuts a Trio of Flagship Complications

Although the most classic – and simple – of Cartier wristwatches designs have lately enjoyed resurgent popularity, the jeweller still makes exceptionally complicated watches. Its latest is not one but is a three-part set, the Fine Watchmaking Rotonde de Cartier Precious “Icons Set”. All three watches are amongst the brand’s flagship complications that go beyond design and into the realm of ingenious and unusual watchmaking. And the trio share a common theme of the mysterious display and tourbillon, fusing an optic illusion that is synonymous with Cartier and the rotating regulator. The Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon with a jade cabochon on the crown Initial thoughts Each of the watches in the set is special for how it combines Cartier’s traditional design with intriguing technical details. Although the movements are modern in style – the skeleton bridges have a dark grey finish – the designs remain classical. And the streamlined, “mysterious” construction of the movements belie the complexity of their construction. But the movements are unquestionably appealing, both in concept and execution. A curious mind might ponder how the mechanics seemingly float within the case. It’s an old trick that makes it seem like there is no connection between the movement and the case, but a good one that still has visual impact. While the details of the watches are elegant, all of them are huge. The smallest of the trio is 43.5 mm in diameter, and the larges...

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Mar 8, 2021

A Wristwatch for India’s Biggest Sport

Popular globally but especially in Commonwealth countries, cricket is the biggest sport in India, which accounts for over 90% of the one billion cricket fans globally according to the sport’s governing body. During the 2019 Cricket World Cup, the India-Pakistan match was seen by by 545 million people in India alone. So if there was ever an appropriate sport for an Indian watchmaker, it certainly is cricket. Bangalore Watch Company (BWC) does exactly that with the Cover Drive, a wristwatch with a cricket score-counting bezel. Initial thoughts Sport-themed watches are common, but a cricket watch is definitely a first. While I’m not a fan of the game, I can see how the Cover Drive would appeal to cricket enthusiasts. For one, the watch is catered to cricket in terms of function, with a bezel that’s graduated to “track elapsed overs in a 50-overs or T20 cricket match” according to the BWC. And its aesthetics are also gently inspired by the game. The hour indices, for instance,  are modelled on a stump, the wooden pole used in cricket that make up a wicket. And the triple marker at 12 o’clock resembles a wicket, which made up of three stumps and protected by the batsman. However, all of that also means the Cover Drive – itself is named after a particular shot in cricket – is very much a niche product, albeit one with a billion-strong audience. While the cricket references will only resonate with fans of the sport, the Cover Drive is designed well. It’s legi...

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Sinn s Submarine-Steel Dive Watch Mar 5, 2021

Sinn’s Submarine-Steel Dive Watch Gets a Patina Dial

Known for its utilitarian “tool” watches, Sinn’s latest is a variation on its bestselling dive watch. The U1 DS is a limited-edition rendition of the brand’s dive watch that’s best known for having a case made from the same steel alloy as German navy submarines. Limited to 500 pieces, the U1 DS features a dial that has been lapped to achieve a seemingly worn-out finish, whilst retaining the famed robustness that characterises the U1. The combination is a juxtaposition of an aged dial and a case that will likely never show any wear. Initial thoughts The U1 DS is a clear winner in my books. The dial’s battle-scarred look suits the submarine-inspired genesis of the U1, which has long had a military feel, despite not being a military-issue watch (though Sinn did made a special edition for a special-forces unit of the German military). Despite the new finish, the U1 retains its trademark legibility. The randomly-scratched texture does not detract from readability or the distinctive U1 dial design. Its signature block-shaped hands and hour markers remain prominent. Though it’s an uncommon look, Sinn has been using this randomly-textured finish frequently of late. The finish was first used in 2019 on the 356 Fliegerchronograph for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, and then last year on the EZM3.F.V. that was only sold in Japan. The patina finish remains rare, but not quite as rare as it seems to be. The Japan-only EZM3.F.V. Despite being a limited edition, the U...

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Tudor Premieres Short Film About Mar 5, 2021

Tudor Premieres Short Film About Orcas, Whales, and a Remote Norwegian Island

Continuing with a tradition established by its founder Hans Wilsdorf – who famously equipped Mercedes Gleitze with a Rolex Oyster when she became the first Englishwoman to swim the Channel – Tudor has cultivated partnerships with many sportsmen and women, brand ambassadors who prove the durability of its watches. The brand’s latest endeavour took it to Spildra, a remote island off Norway, where it supported the production of a documentary that delves into the lives of orcas and whales. The brainchild of underwater film director Jean-Charles Granjon, The Quest for Nature stars Morgan Bourc’his, a world-champion freediver who’s long been a Tudor ambassador. Mr Bourc’his sporting a Pelagos Despite being in the sea his entire professional life, Mr Bourc’his professes a regrettable lack of experience with large marine mammals. He both yearns to meet them and bemoans their declining reducing populations. The film marks Mr Bourc’his’ first extensive experience with these marine creatures, something he describes as a “human and technical adventure in collaboration with nature and subject to nature’s desires.” An orca – better known as a killer whale but belonging to the dolphin family Searching for giant mammals The team started shooting in January 2019, but the environment turned out to be less than ideal, resulting in little useable footage. Learning that inauspicious start, they made a comeback 10 months later, armed with more personnel and equipme...

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Louis Erard Unveils Mar 4, 2021

Louis Erard Unveils an Affordable ‘Grand Feu’ Enamel Time-Only

Best known recently for its collaborations with independent watchmakers – the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter sold out in a matter of hours – Louis Erard has been gaining recognition for making the style of high-end watchmaking affordable. Continuing with that focus, the brand has just announced the Excellence Email Grand Feu, a time-only wristwatch with a traditional enamel dial in a striking ivory hue. The grand feu, or fired-in-an-oven, enamel dial is fairly difficult to manufacture, resulting in a rejection rate that’s often over half. As a result, such dials are usually only found in high-end watches. It’s Louis Erard’s first use of a fired enamel dial, but true to form, the brand has retained its usual pricing positioning with a retail price of under 4,000 Swiss francs. Initial thoughts Given the frequent enthusiast gripe that watch prices (or values) border on the absurd, it would seem that true value propositions are hard to come by. There are a few exceptions – Tudor, Longines, and a few independents for instance – with Louis Erard increasingly being one of them. The brand offers an honest product, often with one or two elements historically found only in haute horlogerie, for not so much money. The Excellence Email Grand Feu is exactly that. And the dial is particularly appealing in ivory, instead of the usual bright white that is the favoured colour for fired enamel. Notably, the dial is made by Donzé Cadrans, the well-known enamel dial maker ...

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Citizen Introduces All-New Automatic Caliber Mar 4, 2021

Citizen Introduces All-New Automatic Caliber 0200

Having introduced the ultra-advanced quartz Caliber 0100 in 2019, Citizen is now turning to mechanical movements. Making its debut in the flagship The Citizen collection, the Caliber 0200 is a newly-developed automatic with all the technical features expected of a high-end modern movement, along with more elaborate decoration thanks to the input of Swiss movement specialist La Joux-Perret. Citizen’s first new mechanical since 2010, the Caliber 0200 elevates its mechanical watchmaking to a new level in both construction and aesthetics. Similarly, the first wristwatch equipped with the Caliber 0200 boasts a more sophisticated degree of finishing on its complex case and integrated bracelet. The Caliber 0200 Initial thoughts Going by the images, the Calibre 0200-equipped The Citizen is an impressive watch. And going by Citizen’s other high-end watches, this will almost surely look as good in real life as it does in photos. Measuring an elegant 40 mm by 10.9 mm, the case has complex surfaces and impeccable finishing, and also a distinctive look. Though some of the design elements do bring to mind other watches, it is original enough, which is a feat given the proliferation of integrated-bracelet designs today. But the highlight is the movement, which is perhaps best described as a high-end workhorse calibre. The construction and specs tick all the right boxes, and so does the finishing, which is superior to many watches – Swiss and Japanese – in the same price range. Th...

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Breitling Introduces Mar 3, 2021

Breitling Introduces the Chronomat Red Arrows

Best known for its pilot’s watches, Breitling has long enjoyed relationships with airforces across the world, including the United Kingdom’s Royal Air Force (RAF), especially its fabled aerobatic team, the Red Arrows. Continuing a partnership that is three decades old, Breitling has just announced the Chronomat Red Arrows Limited Edition. This is the latest in several Red Arrows editions that began in the 1990s, but the first that’s based on the latest-generation Chronomat, which also means it’s the first with an in-house movement, the Caliber 01. Not as revered by enthusiasts as the Navitimer with its distinctive slide-rule bezel, the Chronomat is nonetheless underrated. Introduced in 1984 to mark Breitling’s 100th anniversary, the modern-day Chronomat was a return to form for the brand, being a bold, brand-new design equipped with a mechanical movement, specifically the Valjoux 7750. Made even more distinctive with its Rouleaux bracelet made up of baton links, the Chronomat quickly became a bestseller that defined Breitling in the 1990s. Initial thoughts Given that fact that perhaps the best known Breitling-Red Arrows watch was a 1995 Chronomat with a red dial, the new edition makes perfect sense. That said, the Red Arrows watch is essentially the same as the standard Chronomat with a blue dial, but with the Red Arrows logo at 12 o’clock. Having more Red Arrows-specific elements incorporated to the design would have made it more distinctive, but since this ...

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Grand Seiko Debuts Mar 3, 2021

Grand Seiko Debuts the GMT “Seasons” Collection

A simple but bestselling complication for Grand Seiko, the dual-time zone GMT received a makeover for Seiko’s 140th anniversary. The result is a quartet of GMT watches that evoke the changing landscapes in Japan as the seasons change. Made up of both Hi-Beat and Spring Drive models, the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Seasons” all share the same classically-styled case that has been associated with the GMT since the very first model. Each of the four watches is inspired by specific phases of each season. In East Asian cultures, each of the four seasons is further divided into six phases – known as 節気, or sekki, in Japan – to capture the subtle changes within a season. Each of the new GMT models is inspired by a sekki from each season. Consequently, the watches are each distinct in colours and finish, having inspiration as varied as green-cherry trees to the dark, moonlit sky. The GMT “Shunbun” SBGJ251 Initial thoughts The quartet exemplifies the style of modern-day Grand Seiko, especially in the splendid dials that translate the local landscape into intricate stamped patterns. And the cases are elegantly shaped but solid, and finished with Zaratsu flat polishing that is synonymous with Grand Seiko. Because all four watches are powered by longstanding movements – instead of the latest-generation 9SA5 that costs a lot more – the prices are all in line with existing models, US$6,300 for the Spring Drive GMT and US$7,100 for Hi-Beat automatics. Though ...

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Vacheron Constantin Mercator Prototype Pièce Unique Mar 2, 2021

Market Watch: Vacheron Constantin Mercator Prototype Pièce Unique

An unusual wristwatch with twin retrograde hands in the form of a compass, the Mercator was unveiled in 1994 for the 400th anniversary of the death of Gerardus Mercator (1512-1594). A pioneering cartographer famous for inventing the map projection that evolved into the world maps of today, Mercator was born in present-day Belgium, which is where the genesis for the Mercator wristwatch was formed. The Mercator wristwatch was unusual amongst watches of the 1990s, being one of the rare handful of classically styled watches with an unconventional time display. At the same time, the fanciest versions of the Mercator watches featured hand-made fired enamel dials, which were rare at the time. The entry-level versions, in contrast, had acid-etched brass dials sporting similar motifs. A tribute to the past The Mercator watch was the brainchild of Jean Genbrugge, an artisan who, along with his wife Lucie, specialises in miniature enamel painting. Mr Genbrugge is also a watchmaker, which led him to invent the Mercator retrograde mechanism, while also devising the map-pattern dial as in a nod to his homeland’s famous son. “I am a citizen of Antwerp like Mercator, and I have a great admiration for his scientific work,” recounts Mr Genbrugge, “When the 400th anniversary of Mercator’s passing took place in 1993, I visited the exhibition in honour of his life at the Mercator Museum in Sint-Niklaas.” “Being a sailor, I am a navigator myself,” explains Mr Genbrugge, “Which...

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Roger Dubuis Debuts Mar 2, 2021

Roger Dubuis Debuts the Excalibur Spider 39 mm

Known for its bold, big, and skeletonised watches, Roger Dubuis is paring back its extravagant style – just slightly – with two smaller, 39 mm versions of the Excalibur Spider. Limited to 88 pieces in each guise, the Excalibur Spider 39 mm retains the brand’s signature Celtic-cross flying tourbillon and the open-worked case of the lightweight Spider series. In addition to the twin Spider models, the new 39 mm size also includes an edition created in collaboration with Italian tyre maker Pirelli, the Excalibur Spider Pirelli that’s limited to just 28 watches. Initial thoughts With the same aesthetic found on earlier Excalibur watches, which were either 45 mm or 47 mm, the new 39 mm models are practical rather than innovative. And the RD510SQ skeleton flying tourbillon movement already exists, found inside the 36 mm Excalibur watches for women. What’s new is the 39 mm case, which makes the Excalibur substantially more wearable. The new case is undoubtedly a commercial decision, since the line between watches for each gender gets increasingly fuzzy. The Excalibur Spider 39 mm Pirelli More women now want larger watches, while men sometimes revert to case sizes that are more old-school 20th century than 21st. During the online launch of the 39 mm models, Roger Dubuis chief executive Nicola Andreatta noted that the 36 mm Excalibur watches were a surprise hit amongst male clients in Japan, despite being marketed as ladies’ watches. The 39 mm Excalibur Spider fil...

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Patek Philippe Mar 1, 2021

In-Depth: Mid-Century Movado Chronographs

Every time you read a story about the ocean, there’s a good chance you’ll see that it is “95% unexplored”, or “we know more about the surface of the moon than of the seafloor”. As most tropes go, they are as annoying as they are true, and in this case they’re also an apt metaphor for vintage watch knowledge. While the details of vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex have been mapped down to their going trains, numerous brands remain relatively uncharted – a Marianas Trench’s of knowledge awaiting exploration. Midcentury Movado chronographs lie squarely at those depths; let’s dive in. As we arrive at the door of our submersible, we must first acknowledge those who have assembled taxonomies of this scantly-explored abyss: the late Fritz van Osterhausen, author of The Movado History, and the excellent M95 chronograph reference the e-newsletter Rescapement published a few years ago. Using their ballast - no, I haven’t run out of nautical metaphors yet - we hope to fathom yet further. Today, we’ll peer into with what many consider the pinnacle of Movado collecting, its exceptionally-cased midcentury chronographs. History Until the 21st century, Swiss watch production was predominantly a cottage industry. Specialists manufactured the case, dial, or ebauche (movement blank), and peddled their wares to as many brands as possible. While final products were modified to brand specifications, family traits are easily discernible across marques that shared sup...

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Omega Unveils Seamaster Chronograph Mar 1, 2021

Omega Unveils Seamaster Chronograph for America’s Cup 2021

Yachting’s most prestigious race, the America’s Cup once again has Omega as its official timekeeper, for the first time since 2003. Omega is inaugurating its partnership with a special-edition Seamaster chronograph for the 36th America’s Cup, which will take place off the coast of New Zealand in March 2021. The Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup Chronograph is the second edition made for the 2021 America’s Cup; the first was a Seamaster Planet Ocean. Initial thoughts Omega loves special editions; some are appealing in theme and execution, while others are unimaginative. The new Seamaster chronograph falls squarely in the former category – it’s definitely more exciting than last year’s America’s Cup Planet Ocean, thanks to a few novel technical features. While the America’s Cup edition retains the basic specs of the standard Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph, it incorporates functions catered specifically for yachting, including a regatta countdown on the minute register. Most unusual is the “Chrono Lock”, a slide on the case side that prevents activation of the chronograph. However, at US$10,700 (or 15,050 Singapore dollars), this costs almost 40% more than the standard Seamaster 300M Chronograph. That’s hard to swallow even for the most ardent of yachting fans, and considering the additional features. For the America’s Cup The America’s Cup edition has both its dial and bezel in blue ceramic, while the bezel markings are in white enamel ...

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Feb 28, 2021

Introducing the Novel, Made-in-Russia Ouroboros

Conceived by Russian watch journalist Mikhail Goncharov and executed with the help of watchmaker Maxim Sushkov, the Ouroboros is a simple-but-smart take on the 24-hour time display. The watch evolved from an idea of Mr Goncharov’s, which combines a novel time display along with design elements from the Jewish faith. Initial thoughts Unusual and striking, the Ouroboros is imaginative in how it conveys the time, but also surprisingly straightforward mechanically. As a result it is notably affordable, starting at about US$2,700 for the steel version. The case appears basic in style and finish, but it is sufficient given the cost of the watch. The only possible shortcoming of the watch might be the obvious elements related to Judaism, like the case back motif for instance, which might not be suitable for everyone, but they do not take away from the intrinsic appeal of the watch. The snake eating its own tail The watch gets its name from the ouroboros, an ancient symbol of life and renewal that is represented by a serpent or dragon consuming its own tail, forming a circle or a figure of eight. The ouroboros forms the minute hand, which is a dragon rendered in considerable detail. Its eye is inlaid with a tiny piece of metal taken from a missile of Iron Dome, the air-defence system employed by Israel to protect against short-range rockets. Mr Goncharov describes the tiny missile fragment as a protective talisman within the watch. Also specific to Israel is the dial, which ...

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Seiko Remembers Legendary Japanese Explorer Feb 26, 2021

Seiko Remembers Legendary Japanese Explorer with Prospex 6105 Remakes

Legendary for being the first man to reach the North Pole solo, Naomi Uemura (1941-1984) was an explorer who notched up several expeditionary feats before disappearing in 1984. Amongst his achievements was a solo, sled-dog run from Greenland to Alaska in 1976 – a two-year, 12,500 km journey – in preparation for climbing Vinson Massif, Antarctica’s highest peak. It was on this trip that Uemura wore a Seiko ref. 6105, the “turtle” diver launched in 1970 that has since become one of Seiko’s best known dive watches thanks to the distinctive case shape. Uemura disappeared in winter 1984 whilst descending the Denali – after successfully reaching the peak – never to be seen again. February 2020 would be his 80th birthday had he lived. To commemorate his life, Seiko has introduced the Prospex The 1970’s Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation modelled on the ref. 6105 worn by Uemura and available in two variants, the limited-edition SLA049 and the regular-production SLA051. The Seiko ref. 6105 of 1970 worn by Uemura during his 1976 solo sled-dog run Initial thoughts Seiko loves limited editions – a trio of Prospex models for its 140th anniversary was just announced – and the limited editions are often facelifts of existing models. To an extent, that remains true. The new SLA049 looks very similar to the SPB183 – nicknamed the “Captain Willard” by enthusiasts after the character who wore on in Apocalypse Now – that was released late last year. Like the...

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Grand Seiko Introduces Feb 26, 2021

Grand Seiko Introduces the Heritage SLGH007 in Platinum

Twenty twenty-one is a celebratory year for Seiko, which marks its 140th anniversary. Amongst the slew of watches launched for the occasion is the posh but stealth Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Seiko 140th Anniversary (SLGH007). Cased in platinum and equipped with new 9SA5 movement, this is one of two platinum watches commissioned for the occasion, but unlike the Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Days that’s extravagantly set with diamonds and garnets, the SLGH007 is discreet, and even slightly intriguing with its tree ring-patterned dial. Initial thoughts Translating local flora and fauna into dial designs is a Grand Seiko specialty – which it named “The Nature of Time” – typically in the form of a stamped, patterned dial inspired by nature around its factories. But despite being one of many inspired by similar themes, the SLGH007 manages to stand out. The pronounced grain on the dial is not only new, but also diverges from the usual styling. Most patterned Grand Seiko dials rely on repeating patterns on a smaller scale, while the tree-ring dial has large, obvious figuring that forms a distinct landscape. And its charcoal-black finish makes it even more special – standing in contrast to the brighter colours Grand Seiko now favours – especially when matched with the platinum case. The result is a watch that’s low-key but stylish, and reminds me of the similarly-dressed Lange 1 “Darth”. The SLGH007 also has solid mechanics: it’s the fourth Grand Seiko to...

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Greubel Forsey Introduces Feb 25, 2021

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Ultimate Travel-Time Tourbillon

An independent watchmaker exemplified by chronometric complications and movement decoration, Greubel Forsey has created its own distinctive style that mixes classical finishing and ideas with contemporary design, giving it a unique position in the landscape. The brand is best known for its elaborate tourbillons, but it also offers practical, everyday complications, albeit combined with tourbillons. Now, for the 10th anniversary of its first GMT model, Greubel Forsey has unleashed the GMT Quadruple Tourbillon in titanium. Likely the most complex GMT watch on the market, it’s regulated by twin double-axis tourbillons, while conveniently telling the time in two time zones and also around the world with a rotating globe. Originally launched in white gold, it’s now in titanium, match with a restrained blue-and-grey palette. Initial thoughts Greubel Forsey’s GMT complication can be found in a surprisingly broad range of watches, from old-school complications with traditional aesthetics to a modern sports watch, but it is always paired with a tourbillon. A second time zone function is elementary next to a tourbillon, but by combining the two, Greubel Forsey raises the bar for a dual-time watch – in both technical accomplishment and price. The GMT Quadruple Tourbillon is perhaps the most technically impressive and meticulously finished travel-time watch – and the new titanium-and-blue version looks magnificent. In fact, I am convinced that the latest version of the G...

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Grand Seiko Introduces Feb 25, 2021

Grand Seiko Introduces the Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Day Jewelry Watch

Having first unveiled one set with diamonds and blue sapphires last year – that no doubt sold out briskly – Grand Seiko has just announced the Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Day Jewelry Watch 140th Anniversary (ref. SBGD207). This is similar to last year’s model – a Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8 Day with the dial, flange, and crown set with diamonds and garnets – combining the refined, artisanal movement finishing of the Micro Artist Studio with lavish gem-setting. Initial thoughts Last year’s sapphire-set 8 Day watch was impressive and truly special, being the first highly-jewelled, mechanical men’s watch from Seiko (or Grand Seiko) in two or three decades. The new SBGD207 in green is equally impressive, though it does reduce the unique nature of the original. Being a variant of the Spring Drive 8 Day, the SBGD207 will wear much like the standard model, which is extremely hefty and large for a Grand Seiko, and slightly top heavy on the wrist. The mass of the watch probably works better with the lavish gemstone setting, making the sparkle as over the top as the size. And because the SBGD207 has a green mother of pearl dial, it probably has more flash than last year’s model that had a grained, silvery dial finish. And the movement will be equally refined, having all the hand-finished intricacy of the 9R01 in the standard model. Though finely decorated, the movement lacks visual detail, because almost all of it is hidden under a single, massive barrel b...

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IWC Revives Feb 25, 2021

IWC Revives the Fliegerchronograph Ceramic 3705

Perhaps the most widely leaked recent launch, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” is a remake of the uncommon, ceramic-case Fliegerchronograph of 1994. Available only online via IWC’s web store, the Tribute to 3705 reproduces the look of the original, but in a larger case made of Ceratanium, essentially a titanium-ceramic composite. And the movement is the in-house cal. 69380. Initial thoughts Possessing the clear, functional style of IWC’s first-generation pilot’s watches, the original 3705 was a good looking watch. Being a pretty faithful remake, the Tribute to 3705 is almost as attractive. A little of the original’s proportions have been lost – the hour hand on the remake looks a bit short – but the Tribute to 3705 is appealing. And it’s also an upgrade with the new case material as well as the in-house movement, which enhances the appeal. It is, however, expensive at US$11,900. That’s 20% more pricey than the Top Gun “SFTI” chronograph, which has a ceramic case and the same movement. No doubt conceived to capitalise on desirability of the original 3705 – an example once owned by former IWC chief executive Gunter Blumlein sold for a little under US$54,000 in 2018 – the Tribute to 3705 will be sold exclusively online via IWC.com. That makes the project feel a little opportunistic, since it means IWC will retain almost all of the margin on the watch, instead of having to split it with a third-party retailer or even a...

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Feb 24, 2021

Milléchron Introduces Vaucher-Powered Diver’s Watch

A longtime watch enthusiast based in Singapore, Benjamin Chee founded his own brand almost a decade ago. Established as Millésime, the brand focused on classical and affordable watches, but it has since evolved into one that’s dedicated to more upscale timepieces. Now renamed Milléchron, the brand has just introduced its sophomore sports watch, the Monarque M. Retaining the slim dimensions that characterise Milléchron’s dress watches, the Monarque M is a dive watch rated to 200 metres that’s powered by the latest iteration of Vaucher’s micro-rotor movement. The Monarque M is being launched in two guises, the Saffron with a resplendent yellow dial, and the all-black Stealth Initial thoughts Mid-priced independent watchmaking below the US$10,000 mark is becoming a crowded segment. A few notable names in the same field offer something apart from the mainstream while being strong value, like Habring² for instance. However, their watches tend to be traditionally styled, and few have attempted a dive watch. That makes the Monarque M an exception. The watch has clearly taken inspiration from mid-20th century dive watches, but the design is clearly modern. Mr Chee describes the design as “fantasy vintage, where I take the best parts of certain vintage watches I love, and create a new watch that never actually existed but would have looked great.” Crucially, Milléchron is working with several specialists synonymous with high-quality components to put together th...

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Swatch Feb 23, 2021

Swatch and MoMa Debut Special Edition Collection

Translating works of art into eminently affordable and wearable timepieces has long been a Swatch speciality, since the brand’s founding in fact. More recently, Swatch worked with the Keith Haring Foundation on a Mickey Mouse-themed collection. And its latest venture is a tie up with the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA). Swatch X MoMA is a collection of nine watches, each featuring paintings from the collection of the New York institution. Six watches will be available globally, either singly or as a limited-edition set, with the balance being customisable via the Swatch X You platform. The carefully curated selection of artwork spans the 20th century – save for Van Gogh’s The Starry Night of 1889 – creating a line up of watches that are each vastly distinct in style, and also in size, making each model unique. From left: The Dream; The Starry Night; The City and Design, The Wonders of Life on Earth, Isamu Kurita; New York; Composition in Oval with Color Planes 1; and Hope, II Initial thoughts Swatch x MoMa was launched virtually by a team drawn from both the watchmaker and museum – their passion and knowledge as they related the stories behind the project amazed me. Despite being extremely affordable watches, it is clear that a tremendous amount of passion and collaboration went into the development of the watches. And the result is rightly compelling. The entire watch, and not merely the dial, is the canvas, creating a flow of colour from end to end. But the pa...

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34 mm Feb 22, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces New Versions of the Twenty-4

Patek Philippe is starting the year on a simple note, with its first releases for 2021 being a trio of additions to the Twenty-4 collection for ladies. One is the Twenty-4 Quartz in rose gold with a brown dial, a variant of the recently introduced Twenty-4 “Manchette”, while the other two are mechanical: new references of the Twenty-4 Automatic with green or gold dials. The green dial of the new Twenty-4 Automatic in steel Initial thoughts With all the hype surrounding the now-discontinued Nautilus ref. 5711/1A, it can be easy to forget that Patek Philippe actually makes a broad range of watches, including a collection for ladies that has now been in the catalogue for over 20 years (though the automatic version only came along in 2018). The new Twenty-4 models are variants of the same, but the automatic Twenty-4 with a green dial is unusual and an appealing alternative to the bestselling and faddish blue dial. While the styling might be uninspiring for a watch enthusiast, the Twenty-4 is ideal for someone who wants a Patek Philippe that’s fuss free, explaining the consistent commercial success of the Twenty-4 over the decades. The Twenty-4 Quartz The Twenty-4 Automatic Both versions of the Twenty-4 are pricey, sitting at the top end of their respective segments. The new Twenty-4 Automatic in steel retails for US$27,796, about the same as the Nautilus ref. 7118/1A for ladies, or the recently-launched Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34 mm. The Twenty-4 has the advantage o...

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Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” When Feb 19, 2021

Living With: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”

When Zenith first took the covers off the Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” in the middle of last year, my immediate reaction was “That’s a super cool-looking watch.” Unlike its fellow remakes like the A384 and A386, or the more recent A385, the Shadow isn’t a replica of an actual vintage watch Zenith produced in its heyday before the Quartz Crisis. While the Shadow was inspired by a 1970 prototype with a black-coated case that never made it into production, the Shadow is very much a modern design. It imagines what a vintage A384 might have been, had it been released in all-black livery in the 1970s. Compared to Zenith’s recent vintage-inspired watches, most of which are faithful remakes, the Shadow is a breath of fresh air. So when Zenith offered the chance for me to spend a couple of days with the watch, I seized it. The El Primero A384 Revival that’s a faithful remake of the vintage original Initial thoughts I had a visceral reaction when I first strapped on the Shadow: my heart sang, and a smile crept onto my face. I was struck by how different it looked on the wrist; distinct not only from the other El Primero chronographs, but against other offerings at the same price point. In fact, it looked to me more like a Bamford collaboration rather than a standard model. On the wrist, the Shadow stands out in a subtle but striking manner, especially to a watch enthusiast. Anyone who knows Zenith will understand that’s an A384, but different. Reductive desig...

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Patek Philippe Feb 19, 2021

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt

While not the fanciest hotel in Basel – that title goes to Les Trois Rois across the river – the Swissôtel Le Plaza Basel was synonymous with the luxury watch brands that exhibited in Baselworld, the once dominant watch fair that was crippled by the departure of key exhibitors like Rolex and Patek Philippe, and then the pandemic. Located just across the street from Messe Basel, the sprawling convention centre where Baselworld once took place, the Swissôtel Basel was declared bankrupt by a Basel court in early last month. The hotel was heavily dependent on the city’s primary trade fairs, Art Basel and Baselworld. According to past news reports, over 60% of revenue at the Basel hotel came from trade fair bookings. And those trade fair bookings were exorbitant. So pricey that only the industry’s biggest movers and shakers could stay there – the hotel typically imposed a 10-day minimum stay for Baselworld leading to a bill of about 7000 Swiss francs per room – the Swissôtel Basel was a place where you could spot Thierry Stern, any one of the Hayeks who control Swatch Group, and the occasional Bugatti parked in front. According to industry insiders who had rooms booked for Baselworld 2020, the hotel did not offer refunds and instead moved the bookings to 2021. With clients sitting at the bottom of the ranking of creditors, it is unlikely that any of the fees will be repaid. Though managed by Accor, the French group that owns the Swissôtel brand, the Swissôtel...

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Feb 18, 2021

Ikepod Collaborates with Artist Tom Christopher

Having been resurrected three years ago, Ikepod is returning to collaborations with contemporary artists, this time for Megapod designed together with Tom Christopher, best known for his paintings of New York City streetscapes. Based the automatic model launched last year, the Ikepod X Tom Christopher Megapod is a 200-piece edition sold exclusively online, reflecting the reborn Ikepod’s focus on affordable watches sold direct to the consumer. The Tom Christopher Megapod is the brand’s first artist collaboration since the Jeff Koons and KAWS watches created by an earlier iteration of the company. To recap, the brand was originally founded by Swiss businessman Oliver Ike and industrial designer Marc Newson in 1994, but failed to achieve commercial success despite its distinctive designs, in part due to high retail prices that resulted from its small production and high-quality components. It closed its doors in 2006, before being revived by art collector and dealer Adam Lindemann, whose influence helped gets Mr Koons and KAWS on board. But the brand continued to focus on pricey watches, and went bust once again in 2012. Now owned by a pair of Swiss entrepreneurs, the latest iteration of Ikepod is very much sticking with entry-level watches. Initial thoughts Having been the brainchild of Mr Newson, and then backed by Mr Lindemann, Ikepod’s idiosyncratic timepieces were long popular with certain well-heeled fans of contemporary art. Kanye West, for instance, sported a...

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Breguet inspired aesthetic Feb 18, 2021

RGM Watch Co. Unveils the Custom Model 25 “Kauai”

A pioneering American independent watchmaker established in 1992, RGM Watch Co. long ago developed an in-house expertise in traditional guilloche, resulting in a Breguet-inspired aesthetic that defined the brand in its early years. But RGM – named after founder Roland G. Murphy – has since diversified its offerings to include custom and bespoke watches. The latest example of a custom commission is Model 25 “Kauai”, a wristwatch with a dial bearing the map of the eponymous Hawaiian island. Initial thoughts RGM is especially good at dial making, and the Kauai is a good example of what the brand can do. While the Hawaiian island motif is personal to the client who ordered the watch, the quality of the execution is evidently high. The wave guilloche on the dial is engraved the old-fashioned way, with a hand-operated straight-line engine, while both plaques on the dial are solid gold that were cut by hand on a jig borer. And almost all of the dial is produced in house, save for the laser engraving of the map and the blue galvanic coating. The value of the watch is almost entirely in the one-off, hand-made dial – and it offers strong value in itself. The Kauai cost US$13,900, and similar custom watches are priced about the same – alternatives include enamel or marquetry dials – making them a good value proposition, especially since comparable watches from establishment Swiss brands would cost substantially more. Made in Pennsylvania Located in Mount Joy, a town in...

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Sinn R500 Chronograph Announced just Feb 17, 2021

Hands-On: Sinn R500 Chronograph

Announced just a few months ago, the R500 Chronograph was unexpected for Sinn. Retro and funky at the same time, the R500 departs from the typical Sinn fare of no-nonsense, aviation-instrument watches. The R500 is straight out of the 1970s in style, with a hockey-puck case that has the pushers and crown at 12 o’clock, a retro configuration often known as “bullhead”. But like all Sinn watches, the R500 is a big, robust, and functional timepiece. The diametrically opposite blend of retro fun and tangible seriousness lies behind the R500’s appeal. Initial thoughts Though best known for their utilitarian, and almost military, style, Sinn sometimes creates novel designs, often for specific markets, like the many limited editions made for Japan. But such watches are mostly out of reach for the average buyer, if for nothing but geography and logistics. The R500, on the other hand, is a limited edition available at Sinn retailers globally, but is also different enough from the brand’s usual watches to make it interesting, especially with the retro “bullhead” layout matched with red and green accents on the power reserve scale. And the R500 is also unusual in being titanium, instead of steel, which is the metal most commonly used for Sinn watch cases. The handful of titanium watches that Sinn offers are also mostly dive watches. In fact, the only intrinsic downside of the R500 is the strap, which is a perfect fit in terms of design, but stiff on the wrist and also dif...

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