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SJX Watches · Page 82

The Trademark Battle Over the IWC “Fish” Crown SJX Watches
IWC Fish” Crown One Jul 31, 2020

The Trademark Battle Over the IWC “Fish” Crown

One of the details in the recent IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Black Carbon that appealed to IWC collectors was the revival of the “fish” crown – an emblem used by the brand from the 1950s to the mid-2000s to indicate a water-resistant watch. In fact, the fish logo is significant enough that it is found not only on the crown of the new Big Pilot, but also in relief on the case back (pictured above). Fondly remembered by enthusiasts, the discreet “fish” was eventually replaced by the more brand-centric “Probus Scafusia” emblem, one of the official IWC logos. Behind the comeback of the “fish” is a little-known and rather amusing trademark battle that took place in Swiss courts and was reported on last year by FPC Review, a blog specialising in Swiss patent issues. The IWC fish logo was first registered by Richemont on July 22, 2016, but the Swiss Federal Institute of Intellectual Property (IGE, or sometimes by its French acronym IPI) rejected the registration due to the logo’s resemblance to the ichthys, a fish-like symbol with used in Christianity. The court reasoned that “the commercial use of the sign is likely to violate the religious sentiment of an average Christian”. Ichthys – derived from ιχθυς, which is Greek for “fish” – is an acrostic that spells out “Iesous Christos, Theou Yios, Soter”, or “Jesus Christ, Son of God, Saviour”. Early Christians in the second and third century AD used the ichthys, essentially a two-...

MB&F; and Massena Lab Introduce the T-Rex Bronze SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduce Jul 30, 2020

MB&F; and Massena Lab Introduce the T-Rex Bronze

Massena Lab was founded by watch industry veteran William Rohr – who is better known by the pseudonym William Massena – in 2018, with the purpose of collaborating with notable independent watchmakers, and perhaps one day make its own watches. Having made its debut with Habring2 , Massena Lab has just announced the T-Rex Bronze, a 15-piece variant of the quirky MB&F; table clock launched last year. Best described as a hand-blown Murano glass eyeball inside a bronze socket with legs, the T-Rex is made by L’Epee 1839, who is also responsible for all of MB&F;’s other clocks. Initial thoughts The T-Rex is an offbeat, statement piece for the desk, but powered by old-school mechanics – a key-wound, eight-day movement made by L’Epee 1839, a clockmaker founded in, well, 1839. That blend of contemporary creative and classic mechanics makes it cool. But the Massena Lab edition is a departure from the usual MB&F; clock style, which is dominated by metallic silver or black, resulting in a highly mechanical look. The Massena Lab T-Rex replaces the steel of the original version for frosted bronze and “aged” feet, giving the clock a striking, steampunk aesthetic. Permanent patina Standing a little under 27 cm high, the T-Rex weighs about 2 kg. According to MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser, the form was inspired by a bipedal Christmas ornament on his desk. Freelance watch designer Maximilian Maertens then created the clock, relying on images of an actual Tyrannosaurus Rex to d...

Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph Jul 28, 2020

Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph

With Baselworld 2020 cancelled and then some, Patek Philippe has been progressively rolling out its new launches, including a trio of “Grand Complications” in mid July (and hints of a brand-new complication at the end of the year). All three new complications are variants of existing models, with the crowd favourite being the Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The new ref. 5370P-011 has a blue grand feu enamel dial and replaces the original, black-dial model that made its debut in 2015 as the ref. 5370P-001. The ref. 5370P-011 The cal. CHR 29-535 PS Initial thoughts The only thing new about this version of the ref. 5370 versus the first-generation model is the colour of the enamel dial. So everything that was good about the original model (classical design, dial and case quality, movement aesthetics), remain good. Needless to say, so do the weaknesses (mismatched finish on seconds hand, details of movement decoration). The balance assembly Though not a dress watch, the original ref. 5370 was dressed in black-tie colours of black and silver that gave it a stately bearing, but also a slightly old-fashioned feel. With the enamel dial in blue – it’s a gentle, muted blue – the new ref. 5370 looks more modern and casual, which is a good thing if you’re looking for something less formal. The outside Though a large 41 mm in diameter, the case of the ref. 5370 reproduces the proportions of the ref. 1436, a split-seconds chronograph that was in production from ...

Tudor Introduces the Royal (Including the Royal Day-Date) SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jul 28, 2020

Tudor Introduces the Royal (Including the Royal Day-Date)

Not long after Tudor unveiled the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue – a well priced and solid albeit slightly predictable launch – the brand quietly announced something more surprising – the Tudor Royal. Initially available only in four Asian markets, but now available worldwide starting November 2020, the Royal revives a model name last used several decades ago and applies it to an affordable watch with an integrated bracelet that has a retro, 1970s feel. Initial thoughts The Royal successfully combines various elements from past Tudor watches, with the exception of the dial, which looks a bit uninspired. The integrated bracelet and case brings to mind models of the 1970s, like the Tudor Ranger for instance, while the alternating fluted-and-polished bezel has been used on various models, including the fairly recent Tudor Classic. But the dial is plain, though it was likely designed to appeal to an audience that wants an obviously classical dial with Roman numerals. I would have liked it with a more modern dial, but nevertheless the value proposition is clear. For someone who wants a solid watch that doesn’t look like a diving instrument, the Royal is an excellent buy. With the base model priced a bit over US$2,000, the Royal is – like nearly all Tudor watches – excellent value for money given the high level of fit and finish of the external parts, which are likely the best in the price range. The movements inside are either Sellita or ETA calibres, which are no...

Linde Werdelin Introduces the Oktopus MoonLite SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Though Jul 25, 2020

Linde Werdelin Introduces the Oktopus MoonLite

One of the most established newer brands in the sports watch space, Linde Werdelin was founded 14 years ago and made its name with mechanical watches featuring a removable digital module with dedicated functions for activities like diving and climbing. Now entirely focused on purely mechanical watches, the brand’s latest is a dive watch with an unusual complication – the limited-edition Oktopus MoonLite. Based on the existing Oktopus Moon, the MoonLite is distinguished by the case material, which is made of Alloy Linde Werdelin. Initial thoughts The Oktopus MoonLite is very much in the usual Linde Werdelin style, which is a futuristic, aggressive look that brings to mind watches like the Grand Seiko SBGA405 Godzilla 65th Anniversary and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept. Though large at 44 mm wide, the watch will no doubt be light thanks to the case material. And the color of the case goes exceptionally well with that of the dial, which results in an avant-garde watch that is also the most legible of the Oktopus Moon models to date. Priced at a little over US$14,000 – quite a lot of money for what it is – the Oktopus MoonLite perhaps justifiably priced considering the limited production and proprietary case material. Nonetheless, the bold styling and “indie” status of Linde Werdelin make the MoonLite an unusual proposition – an oversized, contemporary sports watch from an independent brand, which will appeal to collectors who enjoy luxury-sports watch...

Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin Sports Watches in Singapore SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sports Watches Jul 24, 2020

Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin Sports Watches in Singapore

Vacheron Constantin is staging an exhibition in Singapore dedicated to its sports watches spanning the 20th century history. Best known for the Overseas sports watch, now in its third generation, Vacheron Constantin has curated a compact selection of six timepieces illustrating the development of the sports timekeeper. An 1998 magazine advertisement for the first-generation Overseas The exhibition starts with watches from the 1940s, including a chronometer pocket watch in the style of military deck watches. But the highlight, at least from a design perspective, is the 222, the brand’s first luxury-sports watch. Designed by Jorg Hysek, the 222 made its debut in 1977, the year of the brand’s 222th anniversary. Featuring a notched bezel and integrated bracelet, it was very much in the style of the decade. The 222 line up The watches are on display at the brand’s boutique at the Marina Bay Sands casino-resort, which is also marking its 10th anniversary. Exhibition information The Origin of Vacheron Constantin Sports Elegance In Watchmaking July 13 to August 24, 2020 Vacheron Constantin Marina Bay Sands Boutique 2 Bayfront Avenue #B2M-238 Singapore 018972 Opening Hours: 11:30 am to 8:00 pm, Monday to Sunday  

Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi is Officially Open SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi Jul 24, 2020

Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi is Officially Open

Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi officially opened on July 20, a milestone in its independence as a standalone watch brand. Having been spun off from Seiko in 2017, Grand Seiko now has its own workshop, just beside the Seiko Instruments Incorporated (SII) facility where it was once located. “The Nature of Time” Grand Seiko recruited Kengo Kuma, the noted Japanese architect behind Tokyo’s National Stadium built for the 2020 Olympics and the interior of Grand Seiko’s Paris boutique, for its new workshop. The Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi was conceived to embody the brand’s ideology, “The Nature of Time”, with the structure coexisting with the surrounding landscape, while utilising natural materials. A material “greener” than conventional construction materials, wood is used for the structural elements and flooring of the clean room. “To balance natural materials with the room’s high technology technical requirements was a new and intriguing task,” noted Mr Kuma in the announcement. The result is one that sharply contrasts with the typical production workshop that is clinical-looking. In addition to the natural materials used in its construction, the studio is also operated with sustainability in mind. For instance, carbon dioxide emissions are monitored and minimised, while wastewater is recycled. At the same time, the company is working to preserve biodiversity in its local area, including by erecting and maintaining bird and squirrel houses. Gr...

Business News: Watches & Wonders Shanghai to Happen September 2020 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin all owned Jul 23, 2020

Business News: Watches & Wonders Shanghai to Happen September 2020

With its Geneva debut in April 2020 cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the watch fair once known as SIHH is moving to Shanghai. Its organisers have just announced Watches & Wonders Shanghai will take place from September 9-13, 2020 at West Bund Art Center. W&W; Shanghai will see only 11 brands take part, down from 30 at the Geneva event. The exhibiting brands are A. Lange & Söhne, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget, Roger Dubuis, and Vacheron Constantin – all owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont – as well as independently-owned brands Parmigiani Fleurier and Purnell. Like the original fair in Geneva, the Shanghai event will be invite-only, and will include new product launches, talks, as well as watchmaking classes. Alongside the physical exhibition in Shanghai, W&W; will also unveil the new products on its website. With the Chinese watch market now in the midst of a sharp upturn post-pandemic – evidenced in the results of both Richemont and the Swatch Group – China is likely the single largest national market for luxury watches that is operating close to normal, making the migration of the event from Geneva to Shanghai eminently logical.  

Longines Introduces the Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jul 22, 2020

Longines Introduces the Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935

One of Longines’ longest-lived vintage remakes, the Type A-7 was inspired by a 1930s aviator’s chronograph made for the US Army Air Corps. Having been offered with a white dial, and also a bronze-case limited edition, the Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 now makes its debut in a guise closest to the vintage original. Initial thoughts The earlier version of the Type A-7 was already a likeable watch. Affordably priced and well designed, the Type A-7 managed to much convey the look of the original without being a one-for-one remake. And in contrast to the first-generation remake that was 49 mm in diameter – essentially the same size as the vintage original – the Type A-7 was a wearable 41 mm. But the faux-vintage “lume” was a bit much, and the white lacquer finish of the dial took away some of the military-instrument aesthetic. The Type A-7 with a white dial that was introduced in 2016 The new Type A-7 remedies all of that with a black dial and less-pronounced colour for the Super-Luminova. Though it still has a date window that gets in the way of the design, the new Type A-7 still works well and remains a strong value buy. As an aside, Longines did make a similar-looking, limited edition Type A-7 for the American market two years ago that did away with the date display. Off the vertical The vintage original had a dial rotated 40 degrees from the vertical, in order to allow pilots to read the time or operate the chronograph without taking their hands off the control ...

In-depth: Time Consciousness and Discipline in the Industrial Revolution SJX Watches
Jul 21, 2020

In-depth: Time Consciousness and Discipline in the Industrial Revolution

One of the most indelible scenes from Modern Times, the 1936 Charlie Chaplin film about the dreary life of an oppressed factory worker in Depression-era America, has Chaplin’s character strapped to a contraption that feeds him automatically, leaving his hands free to continue working on the assembly line below the dining platform. In the film, the scientists behind the feeding machine market it to the factory owner as “a practical device which automatically feeds your men while at work. Don’t stop for lunch: be ahead of your competitor. The Billows Feeding Machine will eliminate the lunch hour, increase your production, and decrease your overhead.” The “Billows Feeding Machine” in Modern Times While Modern Times was a caricature of a factory worker’s life, the film contains much truth, especially in how it illustrated the burgeoning preoccupation with time during the Industrial Revolution. An era marked by drastic shifts in culture, economics, politics, and technology, the Industrial Revolution was also characterised by an evolution in how time was perceived. Propelled by the needs of industry, time as a concept became synonymous with profit. Eventually growing to permeate all levels of society and industry, this time consciousness had a profound impact on the world that continues today. A landscape of factories Predominantly agrarian and rural societies were transformed during the Industrial Revolution, becoming industrialised and urbanised. This started in...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Jul 20, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) teamed up with online menswear purveyor Mr Porter to create a wristwatch for the upcoming retro spy film The King’s Man, where the heroes are mainly sharply-dressed spies with canes and signet rings. Set in the years before the First World War, the film doubtlessly called for a watch that is seemingly period-correct – yet obviously one that would appeal to the today’s consumer. The result is the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch, a razor-thin, 4.25 mm wristwatch that takes inspiration from a vintage ultra-thin pocket watch. Initial thoughts At a glance, the watch might seem like a conventional but handsome dress watch. But the case design is outstanding – and compared to JLC’s recent creations, dramatically different.  The case is round with a wide, double-stepped bezel, a feature that gives it an old-school, classic feel. And the stepped bezel also adds presence so that the case doesn’t look too flat. And more unusually, the crown is at 12 o’clock and protected by a triangular bow. And the reason for the crown position is the fact that the watch is essentially a pocket watch with lugs. The origins of the design lie in a 1907 Jaeger-LeCoultre pocket watch, nicknamed “couteau” – French for “knife” – after its thin case with a sharp edge. That said, the “couteau” pocket watch is arguably more widely associated with Cartier, which relied on LeCoultre movements for its watches, which were made by the European Watch & C...

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Blu Mare 44 mm PAM01085 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Jul 20, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Blu Mare 44 mm PAM01085

Perhaps the most recognisable Panerai is the Luminor Marina 44 mm. A modern-day creation inspired by a vintage military-issue watch, the Luminor Marina was introduced in 1993, and a decade later became one of the watches that kickstarted the fashion for bigger watches. While the Luminor Marina was historically all about black dials for a no-nonsense military look, Panerai has been injected more colour into the line up for a civilian-friendly style. The new Luminor Blu Mare 44 mm PAM01085 – blu mare translate as “blue sea” – retains the traditional design codes of the Luminor plus a fashionable blue dial. Initial thoughts While earlier Luminor models like the PAM1663 and the PAM1033 have had blue dials, but the new Luminor is arguably the cleanest, harking back to the entry-level Luminor Marina “Logo” of about a decade ago. The blue is metallic, subdued and finished with a radial-brushed finish that’ll definitely catch the light nicely. A colour that’s been in vogue for a couple of years, the blue dial gives the Luminor Blu Mare a slightly more elegant and contemporary feel than the typical Panerai, a useful quality for someone who likes the functional Panerai design but prefers lighter colour palette. The design, however, is strictly traditional. With the vintage originals designed as functional instruments for navy frogmen of the Second World War, the new Luminor is expectedly utilitarian, with large, eminently simple hands and indices – very much the ...

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces Jul 17, 2020

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition

Contemporary yet traditional, the Pano collection has been a staple of Glashütte Original’s offerings. The latest Pano wristwatch is a departure from the line’s typically clean styling – the PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition. Limited to 25 watches with a platinum case, the new watch is a variant the standard tourbillon model, dressed up with impeccable engraving on the dial and movement. Initial thoughts With hand-engraved filigree decoration across the dial (and movement, this is easily one of the most attractive in the Pano collection, more so than the standard PanoLunarTourbillon. Similar to the decoration usually found only on the balance cock of Glashütte Original movements, the engraving is made up of pronounced lines and a complex pattern, giving the watch a markedly different character from the standard model. The hand engraving was executed in Glashütte Original’s dial factory in Pforzheim And the look is further enhanced by the metallic blue of panorama date, hands, indices and moon phase, a blue-on-silver livery that provides a sharp and elegant contrast. While the look is elegantly ornate, it’s a big watch, clocking in at 40 mm wide and 13.10 mm tall, probably a bit too big for a watch of this style. The case size suits contemporary tastes, but something thinner and perhaps 38 mm in diameter would work better with the design. German aesthetic Underneath the decoration, the watch is identical to the standard PanoLunarTourbillon. It retains the a...

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Jul 17, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red

H. Moser & Cie. debuted its inaugural sporty watch in 2015 with the Pioneer Centre Seconds (and followed up recently with the even more sporty Streamliner). Now Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red with a red fumé dial joins the line up. Both the colour and name are inspired by the original Swiss Mad watch of 2017, which took its colours from the Swiss national flag. Initial thoughts As is typical of Moser’s fumé finish, the dial is immediately gripping. The graduated, smoked finish results in a colour that varies in shade depending on lighting and perspective, which adds a lot of visual appeal. Though graduated-colour dials were not invented by Moser, it has become synonymous with the brand. Moser has presented fumé dials in green and many shades of blue, but bold red finish is perhaps the most enticing to date. Although the Pioneer is technically a sports watch, the elegant styling of the dial does not translate well onto such the large, almost-43 mm case, which definitely wears and looks large on the wrist. I would have preferred a case of say, 38 mm, large enough to be a sports watch, while still complimenting the dial. Minimalism While the colour is striking, the watch itself is minimalist and no-frills in the usual Moser style, displaying only the time without any superfluous elements on the dial. Still, the dial manages to incorporate several details that add to the appeal, including faceted markers, open-worked hands, and luminous dots on the flange. De...

Business News: Richemont Sales Halve in First Quarter of 2020 SJX Watches
Panerai suffered from widespread store Jul 16, 2020

Business News: Richemont Sales Halve in First Quarter of 2020

Just days after the Swatch Group posted dismal half-year results, Richemont reported predictably poor sales for its first quarter, with revenue falling 47% to €1.99 billion compared to a year earlier. Like its rival the Swatch Group, Richemont was hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic. The owner of almost two dozen watch and jewellery brands, including Cartier, IWC and Panerai, suffered from widespread store and distribution centre closures, a worldwide halt in tourism, and dampened consumer interest in many of markets, although China was a bright spot. Degrees of resilience The group’s business across the world was affected to varying degrees from region to region, depending on a combination of factors, namely the duration of closures, tourist spending, and spending of the domestic buyers. Although Richemont reported double-digit sales declines across all regions, distribution channels and business areas, the decreases were less pronounced in the Middle East, Africa, and Asia Pacific – the latter benefitted from a 47% year-on-year growth in sales in China, which exited its lockdown earlier than the rest of the world. China’s performance helped keep sales in the Asia Pacific resilient, to a degree. Sales in the region decreased by 29% at actual exchange rates to €277m, declining in all Asian markets, except China. Amongst the hardest hit were Japan and the Americas, where sales dropped 62% and 60% respectively due to widespread closure. The 2020 Cartier Privé Tank...

Up Close: De Bethune DB28XP SJX Watches
De Bethune DB28XP Despite being only Jul 16, 2020

Up Close: De Bethune DB28XP

Despite being only 18 years old, De Bethune has managed to create a surprisingly large number of unique and emblematic case designs, along with a slew of complications and movement innovations. But its signature case design is probably the DB28, a large, thin watch with a pair of sprung, pivoted lugs. For the 10th anniversary of the DB28, De Bethune has slimmed it down to create the DB28XP. Significantly thinner and slightly more wearable, the DB28XP is still instantly recognisable for what it is. Dial detail of the DB28XP Starry Sky Initial thoughts The DB28XP is a smartly conceived watch because it manages to capture everything that made the DB28 special, except in a thinner case that feels more refined and is clearly more elegant. The original DB28 wasn’t excessively thick, but the DB28XP is substantially thinner, thin enough it feels a little like a sci-fi dress watch. The DB28XP wears sleek and light, with the “floating” lugs hugging the wrist comfortably, while the aesthetic is clearly quintessential De Bethune, which means polished or heat-blued titanium. And though it’s slimmer than the original, the DB28XP is still executed to the same level of quality, down to the smallest of details. The teeth of the barrel ratchet wheel of the movement are polished, for instance, while the hands are either polished titanium or pink gold, depending in the version. The original DB28 (top) and the DB28XP But the DB28XP is a little fancier than the original in design, with...

Seiko Introduces the Prospex LX Limited Edition SNR045 Spring Drive Diver SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jul 15, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Prospex LX Limited Edition SNR045 Spring Drive Diver

Launched at Baselworld last year, the Seiko Prospex LX is a series of solidly-engineered sports watches conceived for air, land and sea – and designed in collaboration with Ken Okuyama, once the Creative Director at Pininfarina and one of Japan’s most prolific car designers. Powered by Seiko’s trademark Spring Drive movement, the Prospex LX Limited Edition SNR045 retains the familiar design modelled on the Seiko 1968 Hi-beat Diver, but now dressed in green. The textured dial is inspired by an underwater forest of moss pillars – nicknamed “kokebozu”, or “moss child”, by Japanese scientists – located at the bottom of a lake in Antarctica’s Skarvsnes Foreland. The “kokebozu” moss pillars in Antarctica Initial thoughts With both its dial and glossy ceramic bezel in forest green, the watch is immediately striking – and reminiscent of well-known, hulking green dive watch. The all-green dive watch is fashionable now, and Seiko is one amongst a host of brands doing it, so the colour is not unique. But Seiko executes its watches well – quality is excellent inside and out – and excels in highly-functional dive watches that perform well in legibility and usability. That sets this apart from the competition. As a sucker for textured dials, the ribbed dial pattern – meant to evoke the aquatic moss pillars – is highly appealing. It adds depth and character to what is otherwise a no-nonsense “tool” watch. I am not a fan of the power reserve in...

Business News: Swatch Group Sales Plunge on Pandemic Closures SJX Watches
Longines had Jul 14, 2020

Business News: Swatch Group Sales Plunge on Pandemic Closures

Swiss watchmaking conglomerate Swatch Group just announced its half-year 2020 results and unsurprisingly, it took a huge hit due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Although the group, which owns brands like Omega and Longines, had a good start in January with an operating margin of 17.3% – with the watch and jewellery brands performing a bit better than movement- and component-production division – the lockdown progressively imposed across the world since February severely impacted sales, leading to a steep declines in revenue and half-year operating loss, a first for the group. Group sales for the first half plunged 43.4% at constant exchange rates from a year earlier, resulting in an operating loss of CHF327m, compared to a profit of CHF547m for the same period in 2019. Most of the drop in sales was attributed to the lockdowns in most countries, resulting in widespread store closures. The Swatch Group saw up to 80% of both its own boutiques and third-party retailers close, meaning it had to rely on partially “partially feasible” e-commerce. And even after lockdowns were lifted, the group permanently vacated some of its retail space, as evidenced by disputes with its former landlord in Hong Kong, which has sued the Swatch Group for several million in allegedly unpaid rent. Due to its swiftly-streamlining retail network, the group’s employee count was trimmed by 6.5% since December 2019 to approximately 33,700 employees. This was also confirmed by anecdotal evidence fro...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jul 14, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Unveiled in 2015, the ref. 5370P-001 was Patek Philippe’s second split-seconds chronograph powered by an in-house caliber, after the watches equipped the smaller, slimmer, and far more expensive CHR 27-525 movement. With a black grand feu enamel dial featuring Breguet numerals that gave it an eminently classical style, the ref. 5370P was a hit with fans of the brand. Now the black-dial ref. 5370P has been discontinued and replaced by the Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370P-011. The new model is identical – with the same CHR 29-535 PS inside a 41 mm platinum case – except for the dial, which is now grand feu enamel in a stunning blue. Initial thoughts Like many others, I am a huge fan of the 2015 original for its balanced, restrained design that is also eminently legible and clear. As a fan of Patek Philippe’s traditional designs, the watch was also appealing for the design lineage that can be traced to Patek Philippe watches of the mid-20th century. While the original is compelling for its vintage cues, the new version feels more modern with the blue enamel dial. As a colour that’s been in vogue for a couple of years, the new dial transforms the personality of the watch into one that is more contemporary. While this facelift will undoubtedly be popular because blue dials are the colour du jour, I still have a preference for the original as the black enamel dial was more understated and in keeping with the brand’s historical designs. Precious materials Being...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref. 5303R-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jul 14, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref. 5303R-001

Originally introduced as the 12-piece limited edition ref. 5303R-010 for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019, the Minute Repeater Tourbillon was a unique watch amongst the brand’s grand complications. It combined an open dial, partially-skeletonised movement equipped with a minute repeater and tourbillon, within a case with contrast-colour gold inlays. Now the reference has entered the catalogue as a regular-production model with the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref. 5303R-001. Initial thoughts When first debuted during the Grand Exhibition in Singapore, the ref. 5303R was polarising but popular. Traditionalists who favour the old-school Patek Philippe style (think Breguet numerals and leaf hands) didn’t appreciate it, but those who wanted something more contemporary or unusual loved it. Initially I though the look was too much, but came to appreciate it, especially in the context of a Patek Philippe collector who already has several watches. This looks different, while still having all of the key features that make it appealing, namely the excellent minute repeater sound and the “octopus” wheel on the back. Skeletonised and inlaid The key features of the new watch are identical to the Singapore edition. The movement is the Cal. R TO 27 PS, featuring both a minute repeater with cathedral gongs and tourbillon. Both the complications are visible on the dial, with the hammers and racks exposed at 11 o’clock, and the gongs circling the dial. Th...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jul 14, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001

After an extended absence, Patek Philippe’s signature perpetual calendar chronograph is once again available in yellow gold with the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001. The new watch joins the platinum and rose gold versions currently in the catalogue, and is the first perpetual calendar chronograph in yellow gold since the ref. 5970J was discontinued in 2009. Initial thoughts The very first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph powered by an in-house movement, the ref. 5270 was introduced in 2011 but remains under appreciated, primarily because it isn’t one of the earlier perpetual calendar chronograph that are regarded as “iconic” (namely the refs. 5970, 3970, 2499 and 1518). But the ref. 5270 is excellent, or at least very good, in most tangible aspects. It’s a well-made watch with a smartly-constructed, modern movement inside robust-yet-elegant case of that sort that Patek Philippe excels at. And functionally it is also excellent, especially with the slightly larger calendar windows. Admittedly the movement finishing is not quite artisanal, but it is on par with other high-end brands that produce watches in substantial numbers, like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. It does costs more than what the competition charges for an equivalent watch, but the value of the Patek Philippe brand is tremendous. The ref. 5270J adds the option of a far more classical look to the line up. The combination of a silver dial and yellow gold case is the ...

Up Close: IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716 SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716 Launched Jul 14, 2020

Up Close: IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716

Launched three years after the Portugieser rattrapante chronograph of 1995, the first-generation Portugieser Chronograph ref. 3714 combined straightforward good looks, excellent dimensions and an affordable price. Unsurprisingly it was resoundingly popular, and a bestseller for over 20 years. Apart from an upmarket spin-off, the ref. 3903 with the in-house cal. 89361 – that was not quite a success due to a size and price – the ref. 3714 remained virtually unchanged since inception except for a new dial colour every so often. The movement within also remained the same over its two-decade production run – the cal. 79350, a gently upgraded Valjoux 7750. Then in 2018, IWC offered the first glimpse of the future when the brand celebrated its 150th anniversary. Amongst the commemorative editions was the Portugieser Chronograph Edition 150 Years ref. 3716, near identical to the ref. 3714 but powered by the in-house cal. 69355. Now the Portugieser Chronograph 3716 has officially joined the catalogue as a regular-production model, replacing the venerable ref. 3714. The ref. 3716 in the classic gold-on-silver guise The ref. 3716 in burgundy Initial thoughts The new Portugieser Chronograph ref. 3716 is essentially a ref. 3714 with a superior, in-house movement. If you liked the original, you will definitely like the ref. 3716. Importantly, the ref. 3716 6 is a good value proposition. It’s priced at less than 5% over the original, a modest and entirely reasonable increase....

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces Jul 13, 2020

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT

A star of contemporary watchmaking as a result of its consistent innovation in unusual, lightweight materials, Richard Mille watches have a unique style that is instantly recognisable. A bestseller that’s arguably the brand’s signature watch, the  RM 11 is large, technical-looking, and now in its fifth generation. The RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT is the latest to join the RM 11 line-up, which was first launched over a decade now but regularly face-lifted. Limited to 140 pieces and powered by the same RMAC3 calibre found in its predecessors, the RM 11-05 continues Richard Mille’s material-centric design with a case in grey cermet. Initial thoughts Richard Mille watches are unfailing bold, and often extravagant; the RM 11-05 sticks to that formula and is immediately identifiable. It is a modest, incremental change over earlier RM 11 variants, so it doesn’t offer substantial novelty. But for a fan of the brand and its trademark style, it is very much the traditional Richard Mille look and feel. Blending metal and ceramic The RM 11-05 is novel in its case material – surprising since the brand seems to have used every conceivable modern material – which is grey cermet case, a first for Richard Mille. A contraction of ceramic and metal, cermet is a composite of ceramic and metal alloy, resulting in a material that combines the properties of the two. Cermet is more commonly employed in  ballistic protection and aerospace components. Although the m...

Auction Watch: Unique Daytona “Zenith” Becomes Most Expensive Modern Rolex SJX Watches
Zenith Becomes Most Expensive Jul 11, 2020

Auction Watch: Unique Daytona “Zenith” Becomes Most Expensive Modern Rolex

Having just set the record for a modern Rolex wristwatch two years ago when a unique, platinum Daytona ref. 16516 with a Zenith movement sold for US$871,000, Sotheby’s broke its own record with yet another one-off Daytona in platinum that sold for HK$25,375,000, or about US$3.27 million, fees included. The Daytona became the most valuable modern Rolex despite having been relatively under the radar prior to the sale. While the platinum Daytona sold in 2018 was widely published in the press and social, today’s example was not covered by any of the key horological publications. And it was depicted with a bizarre turquoise leather strap in catalogue photos, though the strap was replaced with one in a neutral shade of tan during the preview exhibition. The famous five Both were part of a five-piece run of Zenith Daytona watches with platinum cases made at the request of former Rolex chief executive Patrick Heiniger in 1999. The late Heiniger reputedly kept one for himself, and gifted the others to key business partners. The watch sold in 2018 for instance was a wedding gift a member of the family that was a longtime Rolex retailer in Italy. All share the same model reference 16516, but each was unique in having a different dial made of an exotic or precious material. The example sold in 2018 had a dark mother of pearl dial, which was also found on the standard-production white gold Daytona of the period. In contrast, the platinum Daytona that just sold at Sotheby’s has a ...

Bovet Introduces the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two SJX Watches
Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire Jul 10, 2020

Bovet Introduces the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two

Helmed by Pascal Raffy, Bovet is a small and independent brand that excels in timepieces that are ornate, original and eccentric – and often highly complicated. The modern-day philosophy of the brand echoes the brand’s origins in the 19th century when it was a leading purveyor of pocket watches to the Chinese market. This year, Bovet furthers its distinctive expression of watchmaking with the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two. Features an imposing but transparent sapphire case with a sloped, “writing desk” profile, the watch is equipped with a host of complications, from a flying tourbillon to a three-dimensional moon phase. And despite the name, Brainstorm Chapter Two is not just a sequel to the Brainstorm Chapter One, but is more like a newly-conceived watch. Initial thoughts Immediately eye-catching, the sapphire case has a very unconventional inclined shape. Introduced in 2016, the form takes after the traditional sloped-top writing desk and is now a signature Bovet design. While transparent sapphire cases are not new – they are in fact commonplace today with watches with several launched this year, including the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire and the Chanel J12 X-Ray – the Bovet case is unusual in form. It is not entirely sapphire, however, and instead made up of a titanium frame of the case back and lugs, with the sapphire case middle and front mounted on the frame. The titanium case back and its pins that secure the sapphire case middle Though fashi...

Business News: James Murdoch to Become Major Shareholder in Baselworld Owner SJX Watches
Jul 10, 2020

Business News: James Murdoch to Become Major Shareholder in Baselworld Owner

Having been pummelled by the COVID-19 pandemic and the implosion of Baselworld, the watch fair’s owner MCH Group has just announced a CHF104.5m rescue led by the canton of Basel and James Murdoch. But the crown jewel is not the Baselworld watch and jewellery fair, but Art Basel, which is undoubtedly the prize Mr Murdoch is after. As part of the rescue, the canton of Basel will convert its CHF30m loan to MCH into equity, with the balance being made up of a rights issue priced at a 25% discount to the 30-day average for MCH shares, which hit a peak of CHF80 in 2017 and traded around CHF17 in recent weeks. Through his family investment office Lupa Systems, Mr Murdoch will underwrite the rights issue, subscribing to all rights not taken up by other shareholders. At the same time, the canton of Basel and its regional bank have extended the repayment period for outstanding loans to MCH, while a bond offering is planned in the near future. Beyond shoring up the finances of MCH, the exercise will leaving Mr Murdoch with 30-44% of MCH Group, along with three board seats. Restrictions on shareholder voting rights will also be abolished, removing the outsized voting power of the cantons of Basel and Zurich, once the dominant influences in MCH. A long-term investment Mr Murdoch is the younger son of Rupert Murdoch, perhaps the most powerful figure in the broadcast and news business in the Western world. Recent newspaper reports have said the younger Murdoch was negotiating with MC...

Omega Introduces the Constellation Gents’ 41 mm with Ceramic Bezels SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Jul 9, 2020

Omega Introduces the Constellation Gents’ 41 mm with Ceramic Bezels

One of the longest-lived models in the Omega line up, the Constellation with its characteristic “claw” bezel made its debut in 1982 as the Constellation Manhattan. Still looking like a 1980s design many years after that, the collection was face-lifted this year and given a smart new look that retained all of the key elements but with tighter, more modern lines. Now Omega has just taken the covers off the flagship men’s model, the Constellation Gents’ 41 mm that features an unusual combination of a metal case, polished ceramic bezel, and an integrated strap or bracelet. Initial thoughts Offered in a variety of striking dial and bezels combinations – with the red gold and blue ceramic being the most striking – the latest Constellation is the most noteworthy of any recent model. Despite the number of iterations, each model has a cohesive look with all the elements complementing each other. My favourite is undoubtedly the steel version with a irregularly textured dial thats adds visual appeal and intricacy compared to its counterparts with simpler dial finishes. Regardless of iteration, the new Constellation also has a slightly sporty look that is appealing, unlike earlier attempts at a sporty Constellations – like the chunky Constellation Double Eagle – that fell flat. Overall its a good-looking but affordable luxury-sports watch in steel And it does look much better in 18k gold, but then it costs three times as much. Shiny ceramic What makes them special a...

In-Depth: The Tourbillon Pocket Watches of Urban Jürgensen and Derek Pratt SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Jul 9, 2020

In-Depth: The Tourbillon Pocket Watches of Urban Jürgensen and Derek Pratt

Originally an 18th century Danish brand, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner (UJS) was resurrected in 1981 by Peter Baumberger (1939-2010), an antique watch dealer turned watchmaker. While the brand’s best-known timepieces were elegantly-styled wristwatches with teardrop lugs, its greatest technical achievements were pocket watches, all of which were built by Derek Pratt (1938-2009), a deeply talented English watchmaker who was a contemporary of George Daniels. As was typical of the era when pocket watches were the preeminent genre of watch collecting – and the tourbillon was the ultimate complication – Pratt’s best work for UJS were his tourbillon pocket watches. Pratt not only built the movements, but also fabricated some of the dials that were decorated in exceptional guilloche. Peter Baumberger. Photo – Dr Helmut Crott The oval pocket watch The pièce de résistance in Pratt’s series of tourbillon pocket watches is no doubt the Ref. 1 “Hommage”, an oval pocket watch featuring a tourbillon with an integrated remontoir d’egalite. Writing in Derek Pratt – Watchmaker, a book dedicated to the watchmaker’s life and works, watch expert and auctioneer Dr Helmut Crott explained the Ref. 1 was originally conceived as a series of five watches for an Asian collector in the late 1980s. But after the first watch was complete, the client cancelled the rest of the order, making it a “financial disaster for Peter [Baumberger]” according to Dr Crott, , a longtime f...

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda GT Collection SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe Parmigiani Jul 8, 2020

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda GT Collection

Following up the more complex Toric Tourbillon Slate, Parmigiani is launching its first ever luxury-sports watch, the Tonda GT. Founded in 1996 by highly-regarded independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand specialises in complicated watches like the tubular, Bugatti-inspired Type 390. A departure from the brand’s usual far in both form and price, the Tonda GT line comprises a time-and-date base model, the Tonda GT, as well as the star of the show: the Tondagraph GT chronograph with annual calendar. Tondagraph GT Both are sports watches, with screw-down crowns and water resistance of 100 m. But they takes they cues from past Parmigiani designs, but translated into a more angular, modern shape. The knurled bezel, for instance, takes inspiration from the Toric, the brand’s very first wristwatch. And the dials are decorated with traditional clous triangulaire guilloché. Initial thoughts The new watches add a more casual, sporty offering to the Tonda collection. With distinct designs that don’t ride on the styling of Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Parmigiani is offering a unique and well-priced line that’s suited to both the great outdoors and more formal occasions. Importantly, the Tonda GT is attractively priced, given the high quality of execution and in-house movements. Parmigiani makes almost all components in-house or at its sister companies, and if its current watches are anything to go by, the fit and finish on the Tonda GT will be as good a...

Highlights: Independents and the Esoteric at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro Jul 7, 2020

Highlights: Independents and the Esoteric at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Taking place on July 10, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X is the one of the first watch auctions in Hong Kong in 2020, a sign of the much-delayed auction calendar due to the pandemic. But the Phillips catalogue is still 269 lots strong, with a little bit of everything. We took a look at some of the notable complicated watches last week, including the magnificent A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph that’s a strong value buy in uber-complications. Now, we’ll take a look at some of the timepieces by independent watchmakers as well as a handful of interesting, esoteric, and well-priced watches. You can find the rest of the catalogue here. Lot 806 – Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” This sits squarely in the category of weird-but-cool watches. Extremely large at 44 mm, with massive lugs and an even larger crown guard, the Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” is a dive watch rated to 3,000 m – three-thousand metres, or 9,800 feet – with a sharply finished, tourbillon-equipped movement. The combination is paradoxical, and slightly silly, but the watch has a peculiar charm, no doubt helped by its affordability (with a low estimate a little under US$20,000). Made in 2006, a time when diving tourbillons were fashionable and when Girard-Perregaux was still a family-run firm owned by the Macalusos – the certificate for the watch is signed by the late Luigi “Gino” Macaluso – the Sea Hawk tourbillon was a limited edition of 32 w...