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Teddy Baldassarre · Page 37

1,488 articles  ·  Page 37 of 50
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Review: Tudor's Most Versatile Travel Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Oct 7, 2025

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Review: Tudor's Most Versatile Travel Watch?

Tudor has been on a roll in recent years with expanding its contemporary repertoire of watches, and has debuted several heaters across its collection this year alone. But if I were to pick out one model as a standout among the bunch over the past few years, I think that a release from 2024 still takes the cake as its most impactful addition to its modern catalog – the Black Bay 58 GMT. I know everyone might not agree with me here, and we’re all entitled to our own unique favorites (I will say the Black Bay Pro is a close second, for transparency), but there’s something about the Black Bay GMT that continuously impresses me. From its wearability to its versatility and great color palette, there’s a lot to love. So, as a testament to my Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT favoritism, today, I’m diving into the depths with this watch, exploring how it came to be, what works about it, what it possibly leaves to be desired, and, of course, some speculative guesses on where I think the brand might go next. Some Context and History  As always, it’s necessary to begin at, well, the beginning, and do a little bit of digging into the brand’s legacy to chart the trajectory of how we get to the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. For an even further exploration into the longstanding history of Tudor GMT watches, I will refer you now to this definitive guide on the subject here. Unlike its luxurious older sibling, Tudor’s connection with GMT functionality can’t really be traced back anywher...

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Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl: Two Iconic GMT-Masters Compared Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Oct 6, 2025

Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl: Two Iconic GMT-Masters Compared

The Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most popular timepieces in the world, and the "Batman" and "Batgirl" versions, with their alluring black-and-blue colorways, are on many a collector's wish list. But what makes a Batman a Batman, and a Batgirl a Batgirl, and what exactly differentiates these two watches, so similar at first glance, from each other? Here we explore what makes "Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl" such a compelling matchup, and why the debate on the nicknames themselves is so intriguing. Lead image by Bonhams and Sotheby's Before Batman: A Brief History of the Rolex GMT-Master When it hit the market in 1955, one year after its unveiling, the Rolex GMT-Master was both trend-setting and genre-defining in its now-iconic conception. The original GMT-Master (Ref. 6542) was the first watch capable of displaying the time in two separate time zones thanks to the clever addition of a fourth, central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel. The initials in the watch’s name signify “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. This dual-time functionality was an innovation devised for, and developed in cooperation with, the original watch’s intended users: pilots for Pan American Airlines, at the time one of the U.S.A.’s leading commercial carriers. In that so-called Golden Age of commercial aviation, the growth of long-haul and international flights...

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15 Of The Best Starter Watches For Different Types of Enthusiasts Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 3, 2025

15 Of The Best Starter Watches For Different Types of Enthusiasts

The choice of where to begin a watch collection might just be the most personal decision you ever make in your collecting journey. Today, I will be acting as your watch inspiration fairy godmother and offer up what I think is a delectable platter of best starter watches to choose from for those gearing up to take the plunge into this hobby. Some rules of the road: today, I’m aiming for reasonably attainable watches that I think are suitable for confident beginners. My picks are more geared towards those who have already been bitten by the watch-collecting bug and have surpassed the “will I actually wear a watch regularly” conundrum. This is a necessary phase; we all go through it, but from now on, I will assume that you, dear reader, if you’ve found yourself here, that you are pretty damn confident that you want to wear a watch proudly on a daily basis. So without further ado, let’s get into the watches, shall we? Best GADA Starter Watch Contenders Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic   Case: 40mm Movement: 8210 Automatic Water Resistance: 50 meters (still water swimming) Price: $356.25 As an entry point into mechanical watches, Citizen and Seiko are really neck-in-neck on offering some of the best value for the price, with many solid automatic models available for under $500. These Japanese heavy hitters are really in a class of their own. But among the rather extensive contemporary catalog of Citizen watches, its Tsuyosa line offers the most versatility and GADA potenti...

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Longines Spirit 39mm Review: Smaller, Cleaner Pilot's Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Oct 3, 2025

Longines Spirit 39mm Review: Smaller, Cleaner Pilot's Watches

The Longines Spirit Pilot watch collection was released back in 2020 and I recall going hands-on with the then-new pilot’s watches, which were a blend of contemporary with a dash of vintage styling. Since then, the brand has clearly listened to the response from enthusiasts who have been generally receptive to the collection, but with some consistent points of criticism. Namely, the five stars on the dial were divisive and even though it comes in 37,40, and 42mm case sizes, none felt like they hit that “Goldilocks” zone for a lot of people. Fortunately for those buyers, Longines just dropped two new watches that might be the best in the collection so far: the Longines Spirit 39mm three-hand and the new Flyback in a 39.5mm case. Longines Spirit 39mm Pilot's Watch First, let's look at the Spirit Pilot three-hand watch which comes in a stainless steel case measuring 39mm wide and 11.5mm thick with a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm. While the gap between 39mm and 40mm doesn’t sound too dramatic, the latter has a lug-to-lug that measures just shy of 50mm which is simply too big for a lot of people. And 37mm is just too small for many of those same people. So, with that established, it’s not hard to see why this 39mm case size is so well received. The rest of the case is simple enough with alternating brushed and polished finishes, a sleek bezel, and a domed sapphire crystal with dual-sided AR coating. Finally, it also offers 100 meters of water resistance. Then there...

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Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: The Icons Compared Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Oct 2, 2025

Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: The Icons Compared

If you're relatively new to the watch collecting game and are ready to graduate to your first Omega watch, you're probably pondering a question that has confronted many others before you: Speedmaster or Seamaster? Spaceworthy historical chronograph or tough but stylish diver? Buzz Aldrin or Jacques Cousteau? The official watch of NASA or the official watch of James Bond? Both of these megapopular Omega watches have rich, amazing stories to tell and both today offer a plethora of options in terms of colorways, materials, and even added complications - all while still remaining true to their heritage. In this feature, we compare and contrast the Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster in the pursuit of helping prospective buyers make a (hopefully) more informed decision on their first - or next - Omega watch.  Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: Far From Their Roots In terms of seniority as a product family, the Omega Seamaster has almost a decade on its chronograph sibling. The Seamaster as we know it today is one of the most iconic of dive watches, but in 1948, when Omega introduced the first model by that name, the “dive watch” as we know it in the modern sense didn’t really exist. The original Omega Seamaster was positioned in contemporary advertisements as a watch for “town, sea, and country” - a dress watch for gentlemen that was distinguished from its many competitors by its adoption of a new waterproofing system that Omega had developed for the watches it produ...

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Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity? Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Oct 1, 2025

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity?

The beginning of October is the official marker of the beginning of spooky season, at least in my opinion. In the spirit of Halloween inching closer and closer on our calendars, I thought it would be fun to take a deep dive into a watch that really channels the energy of the season, at least as far as nicknames go – the Seiko Monster. And, to lean even further into the fanfare, I’ll be focusing solely on the most Halloween-appropriate colorways of the Seiko Monster universe – that’s right, it's the bright, pumpkin-y Seiko Orange Monster from here on out. Below, I’ll be walking you through a little history lesson for context, breaking down the various generations of Seiko’s Monster diver, ultimately to help you determine for yourself if this watch is an unlikely icon or a horological monstrosity.  Seiko Monster Context First things first – the “Monster” moniker is a nickname for this line of divers that the enthusiast community came up with itself, and the brand has yet to embrace it officially. The early 2000s, at large, is representative of something of an identity crisis for the watch world, as the necessity of wristwatches as a time-keeping tool waned. Each brand has its own approach, but when I think of the early 2000s for watches, chunky, bold, imaginative, and somewhat overbuilt pieces are the first things that come to mind, especially on the heels of the relatively conservative watch designs of the 1990s. Ultimately, the origin story of the Seiko ...

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IWC Pilot's Watches: The History and Ultimate Guide Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Oct 1, 2025

IWC Pilot's Watches: The History and Ultimate Guide

Few watch brands are as readily identified with aviation and the history of pilot’s watches than IWC, which not only gave the watch world two of the genre’s most iconic (and widely emulated) timepieces, the Big Pilot’s Watch and the Mark 11, but also has used both these groundbreaking models as foundations for a sprawling and diverse collection of contemporary aviation-inspired watches today. Here is the story of IWC Pilot’s Watches, from the Special Watch for Pilots to the Spitfire to the Top Gun, from simple three-hand to perpetual calendar, and everything in between.  F.A. Jones’ International Dream (1860s - 1930s)   IWC founder Florentine Ariosto Jones Other than the fact that he came to Switzerland in 1868, at the relatively tender age of 27, to become the first American-born founder of a Swiss watch company, little is known about the life of IWC patriarch Florentine Ariosto Jones. He was born in New Hampshire in 1841 and fought in the American Civil War for the Massachusetts Infantry. His postwar career at the renowned Massachusetts watchmaker E. Howard & Co. led to his European sojourn and the establishment of the International Watch Company in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. From the outset, Jones’ business plan was to marry the generational watchmaking expertise of the Swiss with the then-new, assembly-line production techniques of the U.S.A. His decision to locate his factory in Schaffhausen, near Switzerland’s northern border with Germany, rather tha...

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The NATO Strap: A History And 10 Best NATO-Strap Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 30, 2025

The NATO Strap: A History And 10 Best NATO-Strap Watches

Once a style that appealed mainly to a small but diehard niche, watches with NATO straps have moved from their original realm of military utility to become a popular option in the mainstream world of watches, even at some of the highest echelons of sporty luxury. If you're considering adding a NATO strap to your collection, or are simply curious where they came from and what your choices are on the market today, we tackle all your questions below.  Why Is It Called a NATO Strap? One would assume, from the strap’s plainly utilitarian, military look, that the name is derived directly from an association with the North Atlantic Treaty organization (NATO), the intergovernmental alliance of 30 European and North American nations for mutual military defense. However, this is not exactly the case.  Essentially, a so-called NATO strap is any one-piece strap, made of nylon or some other fabric, that loops under the watch’s case and through its spring bars to hold it securely in place on the wrist. Like all inventions that originated for a military purpose, its design emphasized utility, practicality, and secure use on the field of battle: such a strap construction would hold the watch in place, albeit dangling precariously, even if one of the spring bars were broken. Armed forces in both the United States and Great Britain used these types of fabric straps as early as the mid-20th Century (predating the formation of NATO in 1949); at one point, they were referred to in shorth...

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The Rolex Logo: The Story Of The Crown Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Sep 29, 2025

The Rolex Logo: The Story Of The Crown

The Rolex "crown" logo is one of the most recognizable brand marks in the world, signifying the Swiss watchmaker's international renown for exclusivity, luxury, and prestige of ownership. It has been around longer than you probably realize, and, much in keeping with the ethos of Rolex, has seen very little change (although that's not to say it's been entirely unchanged) over its decades-long existence. Here's what you should know about Rolex's legendary corporate symbol and the role it continues to play in defining Rolex as a world leader in luxury watches.  Origin of Rolex Brand Name Before the Rolex logo came the Rolex brand name. And unbeknownst to many enthusiasts these days, their favorite brand’s name has not always been Rolex. The original name, Wilsdorf & Davis, referenced the surnames of Hans Wilsdorf (above), a German entrepreneur schooled in the business of Swiss watchmaking, and his partner and brother-in-law, Alfred Davis, who founded the original company in London’s Hatton Garden commercial district in 1905. Wilsdorf was an early proponent of wristwatches, which in those days before World War I were still not as widely popular among gentlemen as pocket watches. The company assembled watches from cases and movements imported from Switzerland, where Wilsdorf had previously worked for a watch manufacturer and exporter, and exported them throughout the British Empire. Wilsdorf bought out Davis’s share of the company in 1919, right around the same time that...

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Patek Philippe Calatrava Review: The Quintessential Dress Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Sep 27, 2025

Patek Philippe Calatrava Review: The Quintessential Dress Watch?

More than 90 years ago, Patek Philippe launched the watch that would become its signature, the legendary Calatrava - informed by Bauhaus simplicity, conceived of economic pragmatism, and boldly establishing the template for scores of men’s dress watches to follow. Today’s Calatrava collection is vast, comprising numerous high complications, but the basic time-only dress version remains the gateway drug for many a budding Patek enthusiast. In 2025, Patek Philippe unveiled the latest version, the salmon-dialed Ref. 6916, which represents the culmination of many decades’ worth of evolution on both the aesthetic and technical sides. Here is the story behind the Calatrava, and why it has become an undisputed icon of understated luxury. Reference 96 (1932) In the throes of the Great Depression, a new era was dawning for one of the great horological houses of Switzerland. Like much of the rest of the watch industry, Patek Philippe, which traced its prestigious history all the way back to 1839, had fallen on hard times by 1932. That was the year that brothers Jean and Charles Stern, founders of Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Frères, a successful Swiss dial-making factory and a longtime supplier for Patek Philippe, acquired the latter company and swiftly began the work of updating its product portfolio. In a modern age increasingly dominated by the wristwatches that had surged in popularity since the end of World War I, Patek’s output still largely consisted of ornate, highl...

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15 Best Purple-Dial Watches From Affordable to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 25, 2025

15 Best Purple-Dial Watches From Affordable to Luxury

Purple is the color of royalty, and it appears that a Purple Reign has started to quietly take over the watch world in recent years, with violet hues finding their way to an increasing number of dials, from a somewhat surprisingly diverse range of watch brands. Like their predecessors in green, red, and orange, purple dials are still, in fact, something of a novelty; many of the timepieces featured below are intended for a niche, limited audience. Nevertheless, the rise of purple tones on watch dials is worthy of notice, and almost certainly here to stay for a while, Here we’ve gathered 15 of our favorite purple-dial watches in ascending order of price, from under $500 to over $85K. Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Sunray Purple Dial Price: $475, Case Size: 37mm, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of mechanical timepieces, including the NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer a variety of them, with a subtle sunburst finish, including the purple dial watch above. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for better ergonomics on the wrist. The bracelet has what Citizen describes as a “mountain-shaped” design ...

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Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch Review: Three Years Later Teddy Baldassarre
Swatch Sep 24, 2025

Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch Review: Three Years Later

Within the last few years, one watch has received more hype - or overhype - than any other: the multi-brand collaboration that set the watch world on fire three years ago, the Omega x Swatch Moonswatch. People waited hours in line for it. Flippers grabbed as many as they could and listed them well above their retail cost all over the internet. People were charmed. People were horrified. Either way, people were talking.  Wherever you stand on the old Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch debate, no one can argue that its very existence didn’t change the landscape of watches irrevocably. We have firmly entered the post-MoonSwatch era. But now, three years later, what change did this unlikely Bioceramic collaboration incite? What’s up with this collaboration now? And will this duo of watch giants ever be stopped?  Below, I will tackle the controversial topic we’re gathered here today to mull over: the Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch. Further, I will do my best to break down the context of it all in an easily digestible manner, mix in my own philosophical musings on ways to look at this Frankenstein hybrid of luxury-meets-mass-production, and dive into one specific piece from the 11 original models, in form and function. So without further ado, let’s get into the good stuff.  Some Context When the first round of the Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch blasted onto the scene, it was something of an example of right product, right time. The hallowed (or blasphemous) year was 2022, which, as ...

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Rolex Le Mans Daytona: The World's Most Wanted Chronograph Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Sep 24, 2025

Rolex Le Mans Daytona: The World's Most Wanted Chronograph

In 2023, Rolex released the special edition Daytona Le Mans celebrating the 100th anniversary of the 24 Hours of Le Mans race. This began something of an annual tradition of Rolex introducing a new iteration of their rarest and most desirable chronograph in precious metal with a few distinguishing features that has collectors fawning over them. I doubt anyone isn't familiar with the Rolex Daytona but for anyone needing a refresher, I would recommend this review of the modern reference. But before we get into these contemporary models, I want to briefly discuss the Paul Newman Daytona as so many design touches and throwbacks on the Rolex Le Mans are tied directly to these legendary vintage Rolex Chronographs. The real parallel here has to do with the dial about which our Mark Bernardo has said: "The model - now regarded as the first “official” Daytona, though that name would not regularly appear on dials until later versions - also featured the two-tone dial arrangement, with contrasting main dial and subdial colors, that we now refer to in shorthand as “panda."...the Rolex Daytona Ref. 6239 with a so-called “exotic” dial, highlighted by some very particular details. Its main dial was an off-white cream color, punctuated by black subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock with square-ended hashmarks and Art Deco-style numerals. Other aspects of the “exotic” Daytona dial include a crosshairs motif on the subdials, which appear in a contrasting hue from the main dial...

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Seiko Tank Review: This $210 Dress Watch Is A Hidden Gem Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Sep 24, 2025

Seiko Tank Review: This $210 Dress Watch Is A Hidden Gem

Seiko has no shortage of dress watches, many of which come from the Presage collection, which boasts some of the best values out there. That said, I recently came across a watch that not only comes from the Japanese brand's more basic, entry-level Essentials collection, but is actually the cheapest Seiko out there at the moment. Yes, the Seiko SWR064 is affectionately dubbed the Seiko Tank for obvious reasons, but there is something distinctly Japanese about it. I had my initial doubts about this watch, but when factoring in the design, style, and price, there was no real way of getting around the fact that this is a starter dress watch that exudes value. Let's get into why. Seiko "Tank" Case The case of this Seiko “Tank” is done in stainless steel, with a gold-plated finish that really fits in with the retro styling. I’m usually really turned off by gold-plating but the cohesiveness with the dial elements pulls it together. As for the size, it measures 27.9mm wide, 38.5mm tall, and 6.7mm thick (30 meters of water resistance). For the sake of comparison, the Cartier Tank Louis “Extra Large” comes in at 27.75mm wide, 38.1mm tall, and 8.18mm thick, so the sizes are very close. There’s not a lot of chatter about this watch out there but I did notice some people say it’s too big to be anything like a Tank, which is demonstrably false. The similarities don’t stop there, as the positioning of the brancards is similar - though I do wish they were just a little b...

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Watch Bezels: Every Type Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 22, 2025

Watch Bezels: Every Type Explained

If you’re new to your appreciation of fine watches, you have undoubtedly read a lot of references to and heard a lot of opinions about watches’ bezels. It is somewhat of an esoteric term but it describes something very simple and essential. The bezel is the front part of the case (often but not always ring-shaped) that frames the dial and secures the crystal. Bezels can be made of the same material as the case middle and/or the caseback, but can also be made of a different material. Here we run down the various types of watch bezels you’re likely to encounter. Polygons and Exposed Screws Watch cases, of course, are not uniformly round, which means that bezels, the front-facing parts of those cases, can also be found in a variety of shapes - sharply squared or rectangular, like the Cartier Tank and Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (above); softy cushion-shaped, like the Panerai Luminor and Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921; oval-shaped, like the Breguet Reine de Naples and other luxury ladies’ models; tonneau (“barrel”-shaped), like the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang and many Richard Mille models; and a host of others that combine elements of these and other polygonal shapes.  The shape that has proven to be the most popular and influential is the octagon: eight-sided bezels have proliferated ever since Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak (above) in 1972, and watchmakers have also dabbled in other unconventional shapes: the sharply faceted bezel of the Zeni...

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Rolex Daytona Rainbow: When An Icon Goes Colorfully Gem-Set Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Sep 19, 2025

Rolex Daytona Rainbow: When An Icon Goes Colorfully Gem-Set

Aside from the watch that was made legendary by Paul Newman - and which would forever, unofficially, carry the famous actor’s name - there is probably no version of the Rolex Daytona that is more coveted than the “Rainbow” models that bring a meticulously designed and eye-catchingly beautiful assortment of colorful precious stones to the bezel, case, and dial of the motorsport-inspired luxury chronograph. Here is the story behind the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” and why it has become yet another smash hit for the Crown in the 21st Century.  To start off, it’s worth answering the question, “Why is the Rolex Daytona so famous in the first place?” The model’s success story begins in 1962, when Rolex, hot on the heels of other genre-defining watch releases like the Explorer, GMT-Master, and Submariner several years earlier, became the official timekeeper of the “Great American Race,” the Daytona 500. In celebration of the partnership, the Swiss brand introduced its original “Cosmograph” racing-inspired chronograph watch the following year. The watch, notable for its tachymeter bezel and three-register dial design, adopted the name “Daytona” shortly thereafter and really took the enthusiast community by storm when actor, director, and part-time racecar driver Paul Newman began wearing one regularly. Newman became a big-screen icon in the 1970s, around the same time that auto racing took off in popularity as a spectator sport, and this confluence of...

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What is a Rehaut on a Watch Dial? Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 18, 2025

What is a Rehaut on a Watch Dial?

Most parts of a watch that you’ll encounter in your pursuit of horological knowledge are names that are fairly familiar and mostly self-explanatory: case, dial, hands, movement. (We run down the gamut of the most important watch parts in this article). But now and then, you may read about, or hear someone referring to, a watch’s rehaut - a somewhat intimidating-sounding French term that might give you pause at first. What is a rehaut, and what is it used for? Read on. Put simply, a rehaut (properly pronounced “Re-OHH” without the hard “T” sound at the end) is the French word for “flange,” which is the English term most often used in its place when discussing watches. It describes the rim between the periphery of the dial and the crystal. Unlike dials and cases and hands, not every watch has one. But for many of those that do, the rehaut is not only a frame that fills in the space between the dial edge and the crystal but also a utilitarian element that can add interest and even useful information to the dial itself.  Some watchmakers use the rehaut for staging the hour or minute markers, In the case of chronographs, like the TAG Heuer Carrera featured above, the rehaut can provide a spot for added functional markings like a tachymeter scale (which can use the built-in stopwatch to measure speeds relative to distance) or a pulsimeter (which works with the chronograph to measure heartbeat rates). Other watches might use the rehaut for calendar indications ...

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15 Affordable Luxury Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 17, 2025

15 Affordable Luxury Watches

Before I get into all the watch roundup goodness, I would like to begin this article with a concession: the term “affordable luxury” is somewhat of an oxymoron, a phrase inherently ripe with contradictions, beyond the scope of just watches. Getting that out of the way, moving forward, I am choosing to interpret the term as watches that punch above their weight class in terms of their looks, utility, and price point. The watches I’ve chosen range greatly in style and functionality, but the connecting thread among the pack is that they all deliver quality at what I would consider a reasonable price, especially given the often eye-boggling price tags that are so common in this hobby.  One more concession: the very word “affordable” is extremely subjective. The difference in what one person deems affordable compared to another can be a cavernous gap with varying numbers of digits. To get personal for a brief moment, what is most comfortably affordable to me with my purchasing power is finding deals on second-hand, vintage mechanical watches on eBay, most often around or below the $100 mark. But because that method of watch shopping is full of risk (I always prepare myself that what I’ve purchased might very well not even keep time anymore), my roundup is focused exclusively on contemporary watches that you can buy from reputable retailers (us, perhaps?) or from the brand directly, often complete with reasonable warranties and receipts. So, enough yammering from yo...

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Casio AQ-230 Review: The Minimalist Ana-Digi Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Sep 17, 2025

Casio AQ-230 Review: The Minimalist Ana-Digi Watch

When you think of Casio watches, one inevitably goes to digital classics like the F-91W, A168, AE-1200, or the G-Shock line. The Casio AQ-230 is the odd exception, in that it’s almost a minimalist dress watch intended to slip under a cuff. It’s also been around for over 30 years now, so it has to be doing something right.The Casio AQ-230 is the quintessential under-the-radar piece that doesn’t shout "digital watch" too loudly. The cleanly minimal, ana-digi design is thoughtful in ways that I appreciate but are subtle. For example, the analog hands never touch the digital LCD screen. The AQ-230 was released all the way back in 1995 as a follow-up to the old Casio Janus AQ-200 from 1982. The design was almost completely unchanged, other than the addition of another pusher on the left side of the case and a slimmer case width. Naturally, the AQ-230 stands out from other Casio watches due to its slightly “dressier” appearance and aesthetic. I have heard some people say it’s Casio's version of the Cartier Tank - which sounds a little outlandish but kind of checks out once you think about it. Casio AQ-230 Case and Bracelet This is a quintessentially unisex case size, coming in at 29.8mm wide, 8.1mm thick, and 38.8mm tall (with 30 meters of water resistance). This may sound a little small and, honestly, it is. But that’s not a bad thing, especially considering the rectangular case shape. The Cartier Tank Louis in the large case size measures 27.8mm wide and 38.1mm...

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ETA 2824: The History and Legacy of a Legendary Workhorse Caliber Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 16, 2025

ETA 2824: The History and Legacy of a Legendary Workhorse Caliber

The ETA 2824 caliber has been a presence in the world of mechanical wristwatches for more than 50 years, helping the Swiss watchmaking industry forge a path through the Quartz Crisis and serving as the engine for hundreds of three-handed timepieces from an array of brands, large and small. While it is a rarity here in the 21st Century, its legacy can still be seen across the horological world - from the proliferation of similar movements by makers like Sellita to the increasing ubiquity of the ETA 2824’s souped-up successor, the Powermatic 80. Read on to learn everything you need to know about the ETA 2824. A (Very Brief) History of ETA Nearly everyone that follows the wristwatch industry has heard of ETA, and most of those have probably worn a watch with an ETA movement, but few are likely aware of the Swiss movement maker’s long and convoluted history. We generally trace its origins back to the formation of the historical watchmaking firm Eterna, in 1856 in the Swiss town of Grenchen. But in reality its roots reach even deeper. Eterna is perhaps most famous today as the maker of the Kon-Tiki dive watch, and it is currently owned by the Hong Kong-based Citychamp Watch and Jewellery Group. Originally however, the firm was a manufacturer of ébauches - unassembled movements for sale to outside watchmakers - and was named “Dr. Girard & Schild” for its founders, Dr. Joseph Girard and Urs Schild. Renamed Schild Frères by the next generation of owners, the compan...

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Seiko Prospex SPB143 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Sep 15, 2025

Seiko Prospex SPB143 Review

The Seiko Prospex SPB143 debuted back in 2020, alongside three other dive watches that represented a modern reimagining of the classic 62MAS from 1965. These were warmly received, in part due to their smaller case sizes and relatively accessible price points at a time when those two issues were beginning to become regular sticking points for enthusiasts. The SPB143 that I am reviewing here has gone on to become a beloved staple in Seiko’s higher-end Seiko Luxe family, due to just how much it offers for the $1,200 price tag. This mechanical dive watch has real vintage roots and while it isn’t perfect, represents how Seiko really has the ability to dominate this category. It’s not easy to stand out as a Seiko diver, considering how many iconic collections we have from the brand that brought us the Turtle, Marinemaster, Tuna, SKX, and others. But, by sticking to the best aspects of the 62MAS while incorporating state-of-the-art machining and manufacturing capabilities, Seiko hit it out of the park with the SPB143. Before I get into the nitty gritty of the watch, let’s take a brief look at the history it’s drawing from. The Seiko 62MAS Connection Though the story of the 62MAS has been told countless times at this point, it remains foundational to understanding the SPB143. Back in 1965, Seiko released its -and indeed Japan’s - first dive watch, which was the 62MAS. This watch was water-resistant to 150 meters and was put through its paces when crew members of th...

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Seiko SNE573 Review: The Discontinued Prospex 38.5mm Solar Diver Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Sep 13, 2025

Seiko SNE573 Review: The Discontinued Prospex 38.5mm Solar Diver

Seiko divers might very well be some of the most sought-after in the enthusiast community. I say “enthusiast” because they aren’t always the entry point into Seiko, or into watches, for that matter, for the everyday consumer. I would think something like an entry-level Presage or any watch fit for the office is more desired in that regard. But, we don’t call them desk divers for nothing, and I personally have worn and still wear Seiko divers to work, but that’s neither here nor there. In fact, the same can be said of the subject watch for today’s review: The Seiko SNE573 as well as other variants of the 38.5mm Prospex Solar Divers like the SNE583 and SNE585, which were discontinued this past Summer. Its discontinuation adds it to a hallowed list of watches that have received similar treatment by Seiko, namely the vaunted SKX series, which has achieved iconic status rivaled by a small few watches in history. But we can also add a bevvy of Willard-esque Prospex models to the list including the SPB 153 green Willard – a personal favorite. When a Seiko dive watch goes the way of the trees, it achieves a kind of immortality and heightened demand that takes a once value-packed product into a new pricing universe, but less talk about price and more talk about a handsome piece of solar diving kit that is no longer commercially available in an official capacity at retail. Seiko SNE573 Brief History I use the word “brief” because, well, this watch had quite a short...

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Lug-to-Lug Explained: The Most Important Watch Sizing Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 12, 2025

Lug-to-Lug Explained: The Most Important Watch Sizing

Many factors go into the purchase of a new watch -  from pricing to colorway to the choice of movement and materials - but perhaps none are more make-or-break for most consumers than sizing. Watches, of course, being three-dimensional objects, there are multiple areas of measurement to consider, though most watch brands tend to narrow it down to the two most basic: the diameter (or in the case of non-round watches, the dimensions) of the main case and the case’s overall thickness, i.e. how high it will rise on the wrist. However, neither of these accounts fully for how large or small the watch will wear on the wrist. For that, you will need the lug-to-lug measurement, sometimes referred to more simply as the “length,” with the diameter deemed in shorthand as the “width.” The lugs, sometimes called “horns,” are the protruding parts of the case that connect it to the bracelet or strap. The distance from the tip of the top lugs to the tip of the bottom lugs is perhaps the most important factor that affects not only how large the watch “wears” on the wrist but also how comfortable it is. (This measurement should not be confused with another occasionally listed stat, the “lug width.” The latter, which is perhaps most useful for those looking to swap out other straps or bracelets on their watch, refers to the distance between the lugs on each side of the case, i.e., the span in which the strap or bracelet fits inside them. If a watch has a lug width of...

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Which Wrist Do Ladies Wear Watches On? Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 11, 2025

Which Wrist Do Ladies Wear Watches On?

I don’t think it's any secret that, statistically speaking, our audience leans more towards men. But if you couldn’t already tell by a quick glance at my author photo, I am, in fact, a girl. Thus, today’s article is in part inspired by a desire to add a bit more of a feminine touch to the content we typically do, and in part to answer to a growing number of questions (such as "which wrist do ladies wear watches on?") the team and I have been getting relating to first steps towards starting a watch collection from the girls out there – either asked by the ladies themselves, or from partners and family members trying to induct their loved ones into the cult of watches.  Below, I’ll break down some common questions aimed at those just dipping their toes into the watch-collecting hobby, and share some personal musings and philosophies I approach when building a collection, as a young(ish), scrappy girl in the industry myself. I’ve also had some of the lovely ladies from the Teddy team share wristshots from their own collection for added color, flavor, and fun!  So, where do I start? Beginnings are exciting, but they can also come with some unexpected terror as you come face-to-face with the unknown. As with any new hobby or learning something new, the initial confrontation with all the information is bound to be somewhat (or very) overwhelming. Personally, when I first began dipping my toes into watches, I experienced something akin to vertigo, teetering on the e...

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What is a GMT Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 11, 2025

What is a GMT Watch?

GMT watches, and other types of watches with useful complications for travelers, are enjoying a surge of popularity these days, with watchmakers large and small stepping up to produce travel watches with both user-friendly mechanics and attractive design, at a variety of price points. Yet, if you’re new to the watch game, you still might be a bit curious about what is a GMT watch, how to read and set them, and how one style differs from another. In this feature, we attempt to address all the pertinent questions you may want answered before purchasing a GMT or any style of watch with the ability to show multiple time zones. What is a GMT watch? GMT is the abbreviation for “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. Established in 1884 at the International Meridian Conference, the Prime Meridian was conceived as a straight line running from the North Pole to the South Pole directly through Greenwich, serving as the point of zero degrees longitude from which 24 separate time zones divide the Earth: the Eastern Time Zone of the United States, for example, is designated as GMT -5 (i.e., five hours west of Greenwich, which is GMT 0). A GMT watch is essentially a timekeeper designed in that same utilitarian spirit, allowing its wearer to read the time in at least two time zones simultaneously. Many such watches actually use the initials “GMT” in their model names, whi...

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When Were Wristwatches Invented? Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 10, 2025

When Were Wristwatches Invented?

Even though it seems like watches have been around forever - at least judging by the ongoing heat of the pre-owned and vintage market and its influence on modern design - they are actually a relatively modern addition to human civilization, and have only been widely worn on the wrist for a little over 100 years. The history of the watch, however, has roots that run far deeper, to the very beginnings of timekeeping by humans. Here we briefly explore the watch’s origins and its development into a modern-day accessory and tool and attempt to answer the question, "When were wristwatches invented?" (Very) Early Timekeeping Modern timekeeping devices can all be traced back to the sundials and water clocks developed by the ancient Egyptians and used by the early Babylonians, Greeks, and Chinese. The influence of these ancient methods and devices resonates deeply to this day when it comes to contemporary timekeeping. In fact, it’s even made for some questionable stories that have nonetheless been shared as a type of folk history. For example, it is said that the clockwise movement of a clock is due to early timekeepers mimicking the movement of sundials, which, obviously, move from east to west. Of course, this theory doesn’t take into account that it would only hold true in the Northern Hemisphere, as someone in the southern hemisphere would see the sundial move counterclockwise. But back to what we know to be true... These relatively primitive devices eventually gave r...

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