Teddy Baldassarre · Page 39

T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Tissot Aug 7, 2025

Tissot PRX 35mm Review: All Wrist Sizes Welcome?

With Tissot's revival of its 1978 Seastar design and its transformation into the PRX line back in 2021, the brand seemed to catch lightning in a bottle, offering the watch-collecting world an integrated-bracelet style at an affordable price point. While the PRX collection initially debuted with quartz-powered watches (with price tags to reflect that), the brand built on the initial success of the new identity and further developed its value proposition with the release of PRX models incorporating an automatic mechanical movement - the Powermatic 80 caliber - all while remaining under the $1,000 mark. In the years since, Tissot has only continued to diversify its repertoire of models within the PRX model family, offering a variety of case sizes, additional functionality, and, of course, nearly every color option that you can dream up, still at one of the most competitive price points in the industry. We know it, we love it, and though we aren’t through the decade yet, I think it’s safe to say that the Tissot PRX has solidified itself as one of the most influential watches of the 2020s. Today, I'll focus on none other than the Tissot PRX 35mm. Inarguably, the 40mm PRX remains the most popular size of the watch, but as someone who makes her preference for smaller watches well-known, I would argue that shaving off just 5mm in diameter has a profound impact on the versatility of the design, especially for those with smaller wrists.  Tissot PRX History Size comparison: ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Aug 6, 2025

MechaQuartz: The Hybrid Chronograph Movement Explained

Watches with mechaquartz movements are a small but quietly growing niche within the industry, particularly in the ambitious, creative, and extremely budget-conscious world of small independent watchmaking. Watchmakers have discovered that these “hybrid” movements, which offer quartz-level accuracy along with a dose of mechanical appeal, can often provide the opportunity to make chronograph watches that entice watch enthusiasts while still maintaining the affordable price points that keep their brands competitive. But what is a mechaquartz movement, exactly, and what watch brands are currently offering the most interesting examples of this technology? Read on. What is a MechaQuartz Movement? In a nutshell, mechaquartz (which various brands and other sources have also spelled mecaquartz, meca-quartz, or mecha-quartz) refers to a chronograph movement that combines a battery-powered quartz crystal oscillator for the main timekeeping (i.e., the hours, minutes, and running seconds) with a mechanical module for the stopwatch functions. The latter element ensures that the chronograph seconds hand sweeps smoothly over the dial, as in a fully automatic watch, rather than in short jumps, as it would operate in a fully quartz one, and that the seconds hand will snap back instantly to zero at the end of a time measurement.  A mecaquartz movement is often referred to as a hybrid movement, but it’s not a hybrid in the same technical sense as, say, Seiko’s Spring Drive calibers, ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Omega Aug 6, 2025

Omega Speedmaster White Dial Moonwatch Review

The Omega Speedmaster is a strange watch. Omega’s most iconic chronograph enjoys an enviable history that has made it a household name, and instantly recognizable to even the most casual of enthusiasts. It has aged gracefully, changing surprisingly little since its introduction in 1957, which has no doubt buoyed its status as a bona fide icon. Along with, you know, landing on the moon and all that. But digging just a little bit deeper than the Moonwatch Professional reveals a mother lode of Speedmaster references of all shapes, sizes, and colors. Getting a grasp on the full lineage of the Speedmaster is daunting, and it’s something that we plan on breaking down in layman's terms in the near future, but it’s important to understand how these older (and at times obscure) references inform Omega’s latest and greatest releases. Of course, I am talking about the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a white dial. The newest Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional, released earlier this year, is the first regular-production steel Moonwatch to receive a white dial. There have been plenty of other Speedmasters to feature a white dial - from recent limited-edition Snoopy references, to the famed Alaska Project watches that originated in 1969 (and were seen again in a reissue from 2008) - so it’s not an entirely new look for the Moonwatch. This new variation is a bit different and, to my eye, draws inspiration from a different reference in the back catalog: the so-called Albino ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Longines Aug 5, 2025

Longines Legend Diver Review

The Longines Legend Diver is one of the brand’s most popular and lauded vintage-inspired watches due to its distinct style and tremendous value for money. The original Legend Diver that serves as the template for the contemporary iterations is the Super Compressor Diver Ref. 7042 that was launched back in 1959. In 2007, Longines debuted the Heritage Revival, which was a faithful reissue that was followed up with a date-window version in 2009. Fast forward to 2017 and Longines began to expand this collection to include options like a Milanese bracelet as well as a 36mm iteration to join the existing 42mm model. Then in 2023, we saw the Longines Legend Diver debut in a 39mm wide case that serves as the template for the white-dial iteration I review here. Of course, this is a truncated version of the Longines Legend Diver story, and you can read the full version by our resident historian Mark Bernardo here. There are currently eight dial-color variations in the Longines Legend Diver family: beige, black, blue, brown, green, grey, orange, and white, which is the most recent and the one I am going to get into here. If I had to pick a favorite, it might actually be the orange, which is more of a muted terra cotta that looks just excellent. That said, the white-dial model introduced earlier this year is a sleeper diver that stays with you long after you first see it. It’s not too difficult to nail a watch when you’ve mastered dial color techniques the way Longines has, but ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Aug 1, 2025

The 50 Best Small Watches for Men

It wasn't really that long ago that small watches for men seemed to be passé. As watches began trending larger and larger in the late '90s and early aughts (not to mention more complicated and expensive), the modestly sized style of timepiece that had mostly dominated throughout the 20th century became scarcer and scarcer in the market. Then came the worldwide financial crisis in '08-'09 and the subsequent demand for subtler expressions of wealth and luxury; the rise of China, with its traditional taste for smaller watches, as a powerhouse market for timepieces; and a new generation of historically savvy watch connoisseurs who were drawn to the smaller sizes of the past. Watches have been trending smaller ever since, and even brands that built their modern fame on embracing larger, more aggressively in-your-face designs have joined the party. Here we showcase 50 watches, primarily aimed at men, all under 40mm in diameter. Timex Q Timex Reissue Price: $219, Case Size: 38 mm, Case Height: 11.5 mm, Lug Width: 18 mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Quartz Analog Timex has had success in recent years in reproducing some of its cult-favorite vintage models for today’s increasingly savvy collectors seeking out the sweet spot between historical flair, modest dimensions, and value-oriented pricing. Among them is the colorful and sporty Q Diver, a modern reissue of a popular model from the 1970s, which also happens to be one of Timex’s first models with...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Seiko Aug 1, 2025

Seiko Samurai Review: Smaller And Better Than Ever

Last year, we saw a trio of new Seiko Samurai watches that aimed to broaden the collection’s appeal within the Prospex family. It’s fairly well understood that the Samurai has been seen as the odd man out among the “Seiko with a nickname” family, but why exactly is that? Well, it doesn’t have that vintage heritage, having only debuted in 2004. Also, the second generation has been around since 2017, and since then, tastes have certainly changed. The 44mm-wide case is a little too big for today’s tastes, where conventional wisdom puts anything above 42mm safely in the “huge” category (the case has been pretty thick, as well) . And while models like the Turtle, SKX007, or Willard (or even Tuna and Arnie) have rounded cases, the Samurai’s case has a very sharp and almost aggressively angular design that, again, is not for everyone. Wisely, Seiko’s third-generation Samurai addresses that persistent case-size issue while giving the dial a refresh too. Fortunately, the angular case is a bit more refined, yet no less geometrical. Sorry, that’s just part of the Samurai’s identity. Seiko Samurai Case and Bracelet First off, yes - the new Seiko Samurai has taken design cues from the Shogun. If that makes it not a “true Samurai,” then so be it, but the end result is one good-looking watch. The case improves over that of the second generation in just about every meaningful way (the older case is still available alongside this new iteration). First off, it ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Rolex Jul 31, 2025

Rolex Land-Dweller Review

It's no understatement to say that the Rolex Land-Dweller was the talk of Watches & Wonders 2025, which took place in Geneva a few months ago. A new Rolex collection with an integrated bracelet and a brand new movement? Well, we would expect no less. There is something fundamentally earth-shaking about massive shifts in the Rolex atmosphere. Mixed metaphors aside, just because we have seen Rolex develop and launch an entirely new collection quite recently (with the 1908, released just two years ago, in 2023), it doesn’t make it normal. Before that it was the Sky-Dweller, and years before that, there were variations on the Yacht-Master. The launch of the Land-Dweller proved to be one of those milestone moments.  The Land-Dweller is the product of 18 new patents specific to this watch, as Rolex has developed an entirely new watch both inside and out. No, this is not a new complication, but it is a brand-new approach to timekeeping. It marks the first development of a new escapement system at this scale since the arrival of the Co-Axial escapement from Omega some twenty-five ago. In short this is big news. As you likely have seen by now, Teddy and I had the chance to see this watch up close and personal ahead of this year's Watches & Wonders a few months ago (you can find our full video hands-on review on YouTube now) and were also lucky enough to do it prior to a lot of the pre-release noise really reaching peak volume. That is to say, we were able to learn about the mech...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Bulova Jul 30, 2025

Bulova Jet Star Review: Retro Design Meets Cutting-Edge Precision

The Bulova Jet Star is one of those watches that leaves no room for doubt as to the decade from which its distinctive design originates. Revived in 2023 to commemorate the original's 50th anniversary, in a trio of diverse colorways, all the modern Jet Star models vibe “‘70s throwback” in a major way, with their unconventional, turtle-shaped cases and boldly colorful dials. However, they’re also very avant-garde in ways that their predecessors simply weren’t able to be, particularly in their use of Bulova’s high-frequency Precisionist calibers, their elevated level of finishing, and the almost three-dimensional degradé effect enhancing their dials. Scroll down for a closer look at each of the 50th anniversary Bulova Jet Star watches. Bulova Jet Star Case And Bracelet The modern Jet Star case is more angular and multifaceted than the curvilinear “turtle” shape of its 1970s predecessor. Strictly speaking, the case is octagonally shaped and topped with a round bezel that hugs the domed sapphire crystal. Measuring 40mm in diameter, approximately 45mm lug to lug, and 12.5mm thick, it boasts an array of polished and brushed finishes that accentuate those multiple, subtle edges and surfaces and lend the Jet Star an air of luxury in addition to its unmistakable retro charm. The lugs themselves are relatively short, with a 20mm lug width to accommodate the bracelet (on the two steel versions) or strap (on the gold-tone model and the steel limited edition). The crown...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Hamilton Jul 29, 2025

Hamilton Murph 38 Review

Before getting into the Hamilton Murph, you know I have to put it into the context of the film it’s so tightly connected to. It is hard to believe more than a decade has passed since Interstellar hit theaters in late Fall, 2014. The movie was the first post-Batman Trilogy film from then-loved but not-yet-immortally-loved Christopher Nolan. Having not been a Nolan devotée up to that point, and also having been a staunch defender of John Williams in the wake of what I then felt was a premature coronation of Hans Zimmer (I’m sorry, but the Batman scores were more tonal exercises than music), I went into Interstellar excited, but I tempered it as best I could. The Hamilton Murph And Interstellar We also cannot forget that, one year prior to the film’s release, Nolan released one of the better teasers of the 21st century, complete with an original score that we would soon learn Zimmer had completed prior to the cameras rolling. I immediately noticed that this was a different Nolan and a different Zimmer. So when I sat down in the cinema, the subtle whisper of Zimmer’s theme, “Dreaming of the Crash,” slowly built over the Paramount Pictures logo and into the film’s opening, I knew I was in for capital-C cinema. For the next two-plus hours, I let the film envelop me. A sentimentalist, I fell hard and easily for the generational family story that was being told and the way the melody of the score manipulated my emotions. Sure, there were bits of Kubrick cribbing, b...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Jul 28, 2025

40 Best Chronograph Watches (2026)

Watchmaking, at its core, has always been about functionality. By wearing a timekeeper, not only did you get an instant update on at what point in the day you are in, but dependent on complication, you also had the opportunity to see at what point the moon was at in its cycle, what year you are in and even the opportunity to time various events (the big race or dinner). Since their invention more than 200 years ago, chronographs have established themselves the most versatile additions to the field of timekeeping. The very first was conceived as an aid to astronomical observations; over the years, chronographs have proven visually appealing as well as useful in day to day life. While nobody is entirely sure when the first chronograph was conceived, we do often point to Mr Nicolas Rieussec’s creation of 1821, which saw a spot of ink dropped onto a rotating disc of paper and dropped another when the timed event came to an end. Since then, it has become a complication we have seen from almost every brand out there. As we begin a new year, we felt the time was right to spotlight some of the best chronographs that are on the market in 2026. Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC813 Price: $695, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 13.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Seiko Solar Caliber V192 The original Seiko Speedtimer, released in 1969, was among the world’s first self-winding chronograph watches, equipped with the legendary Calib...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Rolex Jul 26, 2025

Rolex Submariner Review

The Rolex Submariner enjoys a nearly impeccable resume these days, and is largely seen as the modern dive watch archetype, having first set the template in 1954. The Submariner has seen a steady evolution during its production span, and remains essentially the same today as it was in the ‘50s and ‘60s. It’s a simple watch to understand and enjoy, and while modern Rolex aren’t quite the same function-forward tools they once were, the Submariner remains a symbol of that connection. It’s also just as capable as ever. There have been many transitional references throughout the Submariner’s life, but there is one reference in particular that has drawn the ire of the enthusiast community, and that is the reference 114060 produced between 2012 and 2020. Today, I’ll be taking a look at why that is, and offering a few words in defense of this outlier.  Rolex Submariner 114060 Case and Wearability The Submariner has been a ~40mm watch since the late ‘50s, and while the reference 124060 officially changed that, moving to a 41mm diameter, it was the 114060 before it that was the first to really push the envelope of that label. While the shiny new ceramic bezel got most of the attention when this generation of the Submariner was introduced, it was the new so-called "muscle case" that would raise eyebrows. Rolex doesn’t generally succumb to trends, but it’s worth noting that this period was marked by increasing case sizes, and as a result, the 114060 (and its more c...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Jul 25, 2025

The 77 Best Microbrand Watches In 2026

When it comes to watch consumers' interest, there has over the past several years been a rising level of interest in watch brands that deviate from what might be viable for the mass market luxury watch brands but appeal to a niche but passionate audience. These so-called microbrands have represented one of the fastest-growing segments of the mechanical watch market, in which small shops can produce quality products that compete for connoisseurs' attention with the titans of the business. In the past several years, we've handled hundreds of watches from different microbrands out there; In this blog, we take a closer look at some of the best microbrand watches that the market has to offer in a variety of price ranges. What makes a Microbrand Watch? Now first, it is important to try to best classify what a microbrand is and what it isn’t. To me, a microbrand is a limited-production watch company that typically specializes in a particular style that does not have extensive resources to produce its own in-house calibers or other proprietary parts. This classification can get a little grey in the area of independent watchmakers that typically either have higher levels of watchmaking, like a Habring2, who have a master watchmaker like Richard Habring at the helm, or are a brand like Christopher Ward, who produce a high number of pieces and has in-house production capacities. The Best Microbrand Watches: The Latest Additions Santurce  A microbrand with a strong Puerto Rican per...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Seiko Jul 24, 2025

Seiko Turtle SRPE93 Review

The Seiko Prospex SRPE93, the most recent version of the legendary Seiko Turtle dive watch, hit the market relatively recently, in 2021, but its lineage can be traced all the way back to the 1970s. What makes this defiantly retro-looking tool watch such a favorite of enthusiasts even today? There’s a lot more to it than the very accessible price point, as we’ll explore here in this in-depth examination - or, a look under the shell, if you will -  of the SRPE93 “Turtle.” Seiko, the world’s oldest and most established Japanese watchmaking brand, was one of the pioneers of the dive-watch genre and it has long stood apart from its Swiss contemporaries in this field (i.e. Rolex, Blancpain, and others) for its use of bold and unconventional designs. One of its most off-the-wall and yet most enduringly popular designs is the original "Turtle” - aka, Ref. 6306 and 6309 - which made its debut in 1976. The former reference was made exclusively for the Japanese market (and thus, vintage examples are much rarer and more valuable), and the latter was sold to international customers. The reptilian nickname derived from the watches’ cushion-shaped cases with softly rounded lugs, which brought to mind the silhouette of a turtle when viewed from above. The reference numbers for the watches essentially matched those of their automatic movements - Caliber 6306A, which included hacking seconds and Caliber 6309A, which did not.  The Turtle’s unusual look and rugged ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Casio Jul 24, 2025

Casio AE1200 Review

The Casio AE1200 World Time watch aka the Casio Royale is one of the most beloved and functionally robust watches on the market, digital or otherwise. The world map display on the dial along with that circular “analog” subdial have captured the imagination and wrist real estate of so many enthusiasts over the years who find themselves caught between the relative hassle of a mechanical world time watch and the malaise onset by an over-reliance on smart phones. You can trace this watch back nearly 40 years to the Casio “Twin-Graph” AE-20 and AE-200 watches, which had an LCD screen that was divided into both analog-style and digital display sections. Also released just shortly after in 1987 was the W-50U, which had a world-map display on the screen. In 2012 we saw the launch of the Casio AE1200 which has gone on to be one of the most beloved and popular digital watches out there. The "Casio Royale" So, why is the watch referred to as the Casio Royale? Well, it’s actually a pretty flimsy explanation but the name has certainly stuck. In the 1983 James Bond movie Octopussy, Roger Moore wears a Seiko G757 Sports 100 watch that gets a lot of closeup screen time. The resemblance between the Casio AE1200 and the Seiko G757 is uncanny so it’s not hard to see why fans connected the two. And, of course, the name Casio Royale is also a playful reference to “Casino Royale,” another Bond movie. And while “Casio” and “Casino” aren’t exactly orthographic neighbors,...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Tudor Jul 23, 2025

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Review

The Tudor Black Bay Chrono hit the market, somewhat unexpectedly, in 2017, boldly elevating the already red-hot Black Bay collection into a new tier of horological prestige and marking the debut of a collaboration (again, rather unexpected) between Rolex-owned Tudor and its Swiss sport-watch competitor Breitling. Nearly a decade later, the model still represents the highest level of complication in Tudor’s 21st-Century lineup, and yet this Tudor chronograph also remains very manageable, as a subfamily, in terms of material, size, and colorway options - an area in which the larger Black Bay collection, some might argue, has gone a bit far in the opposite direction, now encompassing three distinctive iterations: original Black Bay, Black Bay 58, and Black Bay 54 (which we reviewed here), all touting different sizing and multiple colorways and materials. And this doesn’t even include the other “complicated” extension of the line, the Black Bay GMT, which recently debuted in the “58” sizing and which seems to unveil a new bicolor bezel or dial color every year since its 2018 debut. Originally called the Heritage Black Bay - as it was clearly an homage to vintage dive watches from Tudor’s watchmaking history, which began in 1946 - the OG Black Bay model traces its aesthetic roots to the Oyster Prince Submariner, released in 1954, one year after big brother Rolex rolled out its own much more famous Submariner watch. This original version, Ref. 7922, used the ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Jul 22, 2025

Top 10 Watch Brands In India

Before I get into the top 10 watch brands in India, it’s worth talking about the Indian watch market overall. This is because even in the face of some regional slowdown, India has become one of the fastest growing markets for Swiss watch exports with an astounding 25% increase in 2025, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. Brands like Rado, Longines, and Montblanc are as popular as ever in India, but what about the state of watchmaking in India? Well, it’s a bit of a mixed bag, and there are a few things we need to understand before getting into the my selections for the top 10 watch brands in India. First, India is not yet at the level of having a watchmaking infrastructure like that of China. The basic history of Indian watchmaking begins with the nationalized HMT in the 1960s and '70s, but the quartz revolution had a big, negative impact on mechanical watchmaking in the country. I’d say 2015 marked a change in the landscape of Indian watches, when microbrands for enthusiasts began to pick up in popularity. Again, while the infrastructure to manufacture movement components and parts in India is still not there, the passion for history and design has propelled some brands as hometown enthusiast darlings. I spent quite a bit of time researching this topic, and I do want to shout out YouTubers  WatchgyanHindi  and Watch and More India who are making some compelling Hindi content for the South Asian watch enthusiast community. In this list of the ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Jul 21, 2025

Best Watches Under $10,000

Building a watch collection is generally a progression, beginning with the accumulation of a handful of modestly priced favorites and building toward the quest for pricier and more coveted models as one's knowledge and disposable income grow. We've showcased many worthwhile models in many price categories, but it's the sweet spot between $5,000 to about $10,000 that many consider the most fertile ground for finding some of those Holy Grails of timekeeping from some of the world's legendary watch brands. If you're in the market for your first "icon" watch (and you're looking to buy new rather than vintage or pre-owned), here are 21 of the best watches under $10,000 to consider, all topping out below the five-figure price barrier. Grand Seiko SBGM221 Price: $5,900 Reference:SBGM221, Case Size: 39.5mm, Case Height: 13.7mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: GS 9S66 In 2017 Grand Seiko released the SBGM221 GMT which has stood as one of the brand’s best values to date. Inspired by some of their 1960s designs, the SBGM221 is characterized by that simple ivory-colored dial and vibrant blue GMT hand not to mention the eminently wearable 39.5mm wide steel case. And then there is the Zaratsu polishing throughout the case and dial which plays with the light in a way that only Grand Seiko seems able to do. The Caliber 9S66 is a tried and tested “true” GMT movement that allows you do independently adjust the hour hand and operates at 4 Hz w...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Grand Seiko Jul 17, 2025

Grand Seiko Shunbun SBGA413 Review

Some watches become icons unexpectedly, and we would argue that no model better represents that idea than the Grand Seiko SBGA413 Shunbun – a watch that, on paper, should not even be an icon to begin with. So much of this watch’s ascension into the broader horological pantheon has to do with everything that GS does right in its process to create a watch from start to finish.  We know the brand for its vertical integration, its attention to detail, its mastery of the craft when it comes to dial design, case construction, and finishing. Not to mention how the brand has made it mark as the the name in movement accuracy. All of these aspects and more are on full display within and without the SBGA413. It is a masterclass in subtlety and craft, and one that is truly more than the sum of its parts. To understand the SBGA413, we must first understand the origin story.  Grand Seiko Shunbun Background In 2019, Grand Seiko unveiled four watches as U.S.-only exclusives in what it called its “Seasons” collection. Each watch employed the brand’s 62GS case concept (the brand’s first automatic watch), and two were mechanical while the other two utilized Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology. The Grand Seiko Shunbun SBGA413 represented the Spring season and did so visually via a unique dial with a hint of pink emblematic of the cherry blossoms in bloom at the start of the spring season. This subtle dial which only appears in certain lighting conditions was paired with an u...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Sinn Jul 17, 2025

Sinn 556 Review

Founded in 1961, Frankfurt, Germany-based Sinn is one of those watch brands that has a rich history to back it up, and continues to produce well-thought-out and reasonably priced watches, but has yet to be catapulted into the watch enthusiast spotlight that other brands have achieved. This, in my opinion, is something of a shame, but the hipster in me also likes to think that its lack of over-hype is also one of the brand’s strengths. While we over here at the Teddy team have given lots of (well-deserved) attention to the Sinn 104 ST, today, I’m going to give some more love to another equally deserving piece within the brand’s contemporary catalog: the Sinn 556 I.  One could argue that a no-nonsense black-dial watch is a dime a dozen. Pretty much every brand under the sun has one, if not several, to choose from. But unpacking and picking apart what immediately looks to be simple is a watch journalist's bread and butter after all, so it is quite literally my job to get down to the nitty gritty of the unique ways in which the Sinn 556 I is compelling, and, for those in the market, to break down the reasons why (or why not) it should be on your list of watches to consider. I will also argue that simplicity is often the easiest design element to mess up. How many times has one watch been thrown off by too much unnecessary text and branding, a date window that breaks up the dial’s overall harmony, or those little details that people free from watch obsession would easi...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Jul 16, 2025

Valjoux 7750: The Story Of The World's Most Famous Chronograph

The Valjoux 7750 chronograph caliber has been a mainstay of the Swiss watch industry for more than 50 years, finding its way into hundreds of watch models, under many dozens of names, and providing the technical base for numerous high complications over the years. Why is it so ubiquitous and still such an enduring presence in the watch world today? Here is a brief history of the "workhorse" mechanism that became the world's most famous and familiar chronograph movement.   Valjoux 7750 Roots: The Vallée de Joux   Sunset over the Vallée de Joux In actuality, the origins of the Valjoux 7750 go back much longer than the half-century it has actually been on the market. The company that came to be called  “Valjoux” started up at the very beginning of the 20th century, taking its original name, Reymond Frères SA, from its founders, brothers John and Charles Reymond. The company, which specialized in making mechanical chronograph movements for military and sport-oriented timekeepers, changed its name in 1929 to Valjoux - a shortened reference to the scenic Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, where it and many of its client watchmakers were located. The firm’s most successful and historically impactful creations included the manually wound, column-wheel-driven, monopusher Caliber 22, in 1914, and its even more significant successor, the smaller, longer-lived Caliber 23, in 1916. In honor of the founding brothers' surname, Valjoux movements were inscribed with a shield em...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Omega Jul 15, 2025

The Omega Speedmaster "First Omega In Space" Full Review

Earlier this year we saw Swatch and Omega come together to release the fresh and unexpected MoonSwatch 1965, which paid direct homage to the 60th anniversary of the Speedmaster’s NASA flight qualification in – you guessed it – 1965. Today we are returning to a late 2024 release from Omega that took things back a bit further: three years, to be exact. I am referring to the “First Omega in Space,” a watch which harkens back to - congratulations, you guessed it again! - the first Omega to go into space. The year was 1962, the astronaut was Wally Schirra, and the Speedy reference was the 2998. In 2012, Omega launched the first “First Omega in Space,” henceforth referred to as the FOIS. In fact, I will refer to the 2012 version, with its black dial, as the FOIS 1.  Omega launched the FOIS II in October of 2024 amid an absolute firestorm of buzzy releases. The release revived the model line which had lay dormant for about four years and brought it back with gusto. Today, we go hands-on with the current generation of the FOIS. First Omega In Space Case and Bracelet I had the chance to spend some time with this watch, one which I considered to be Omega’s best release of 2024 (yes, over the white-dial Speedy). The thing that really cemented that idea for me was the flat-link bracelet, an option not available on the FOIS 1. Putting this watch on, with its 39.7mm case diameter (consistent with the Ref. 2998), its straight lugs (standard Speedy lugs are twisted), ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Jul 12, 2025

Mechanical vs. Automatic Watch Movements Explained

Among the many questions a novice watch enthusiast is faced with, “Mechanical vs. Automatic Movement?” is one of the most basic, yet one whose answer is a bit more complex than a simple A-or-B explanation. In fact, “mechanical or automatic” isn’t even really framing the choice correctly. In the article below, we attempt to clarify the subject and answer the most pressing questions about these tiny engines inside your watch. What is a Mechanical Movement? A mechanical movement, like the Nomos DUW caliber below, uses a coiled metal spring, called a mainspring, that releases energy as it uncoils through a series of gears to drive a weighted, oscillating wheel called a balance wheel. The balance wheel’s oscillations are linked to an escapement, which periodically releases the gear train to move the hands forward to record the passing of hours, minutes, and seconds. In short, a mechanical movement in a watch is any type of movement that uses no batteries or electronic components to function - which makes them different from more modern inventions, like quartz, Spring Drive, and solar movements. Technical developments over the centuries are what led to the two types of mechanical movements we’re discussing here. Originally, the movement’s mainspring needed to be wound periodically by hand - first by a key, then by a small knob called a crown that was attached via a stem to the movement. Later, a type of movement was developed that could be wound “automatica...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Jul 11, 2025

The Art of Vintage Watch Collecting

Join renowned vintage watch expert Eric Wind as he delivers the Complete Guide to Vintage Watches. You won’t find a more in-depth look at the craft anywhere else.

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Jul 11, 2025

The 20 Best Digital Watches for Enthusiasts In 2026

Digital watches with electronic movements have not been around nearly as long as their analog, mechanical-powered counterparts, but since their heyday in the 1970s and ‘80s - an era most mechanical-watch purists decry as the “Quartz Crisis” - the category has continued to occupy a respectable niche within the timepiece industry. It has also has produced some models - at a surprisingly wide range of price points - that have become iconic in their own right. Here are our top 10 digital watches in the modern era, starting under $100 and topping out over $130,000. Farr & Swit Mixtape Price: $34.99, Case Diameter: 35mm, Thickness: 8.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 38mm, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Quartz, Crystal: Acrylic Chicago-based Farr and Swit is a lifestyle brand with an emphasis on fun, colorful timepieces that don’t take themselves too seriously. It is known for water-resistant daily drivers with automatic movements and cheerful colorways, but the current standout is the insanely fun Retro Digital Mix Tape, an absolute bargain at $34.99. These watches throw it back to the days of boomboxes and homemade cassettes, with translucent cases in vibrant candy colors, and their "B Sides" versions feature a reverse negative LCD display. Think of it as the love child of Casio’s F91W and a Jolly Rancher. They’re the most fun you can have for the price of a nice lunch out, and the Stranger Things vibes will put a huge smile on your face - but be quick, as they t...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Hamilton Jul 10, 2025

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Review

Is there a contemporary field watch as beloved and versatile as the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical? At this point the illustrious military history of the Khaki Field watch has been thoroughly explored (and if you’re not familiar with it, our resident historian Mark Bernardo has written an encyclopedic guide here). In short, Hamilton produced over a million watches for the United States military during World War II with its field watch in specific garnering praise for its universally consistent quality. This predecessor to the Khaki Field was a 34mm-wide field watch done in a chrome-plated metal case with radium lume dials and a manual-wind Caliber 987 movement. The modern Hamilton Watch Company was bought by the Swatch Group in 1974 with much of the production already having moved to Switzerland in 1969. The brand’s reassertion as a bonafide, authentic maker of military tool watches with historical provenance proliferated as an entire collection under the “Khaki” umbrella. While it was still producing watches for actual military units in the 1980s and ‘90s, Hamilton had done well by marketing to civilians once again in the wake of the Vietnam War. These early post-war civilian Hamilton Khaki watches were co-branded with retailers like Brookstone, Orvis, and L.L. Bean. This was also the time during which the “Khaki” logo began popping up on their dials. In 2018, Hamilton released the Khaki Field Mechanical which has gone on to be one of the most popular and b...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Vacheron Constantin Jul 10, 2025

Vacheron Constantin 222 Review

The Vacheron Constantin 222 reissue first came out at Watches & Wonders 2022 and it was, quite literally and without hyperbole, the single most talked about watch at the show that year. The revival was a solid gold, integrated-bracelet sports watch that went from a somewhat obscure cult classic to a breakout, mainstream status watch seen on Brad Pitt, Michael B. Jordan, and Chris Paul. Once the initial excitement subsided and everyone got their wrist shots to post on Instagram, the obvious next question posed by industry insiders was, “when do we see a steel model revival?” Well, that question got answered late last year with the release of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Ref. 4200H/222A-B934, a watch that benefits from contemporary watchmaking techniques while looking like it could be straight out of the ‘70s. Done in a stainless steel case and bracelet with a subtle matte blue dial, this new 222 revival became one of the most lust-worthy releases of 2025 shorty after its arrival, less than two weeks into January. For a little history and background, the 222 was released in 1977 and is something of a precursor to the Overseas. I’ve heard a few people incorrectly attribute the 222 to Gérald Genta but it was actually the work of fellow prolific designer Jörg Hysek. The 222 came on the heels of the Royal Oak (1971) and Nautilus (1976) and the 1977 launch coincided with the brand’s 222th anniversary, hence the name. Like the Royal Oak and Nautilus, the  2...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Patek Philippe Jul 9, 2025

Patek Philippe & Tiffany: The History Behind The Hype

As longtime, mutually beneficial relationships in the world of high luxury go, the one between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. is perhaps the most quintessential. The esteemed Swiss watchmaker behind classic timepieces like the Calatrava and Nautilus and the elite retailer/jeweler renowned for its distinctive blue gift boxes have been partners for more than 170 years, and Patek Philippe watches with a Tiffany signature are among the rarest and most coveted items on a serious watch collector’s wishlist. In this feature, I explore the long and prestigious history behind Patek Philippe’s Tiffany watches and spotlight how the two world-famous brands continue to collaborate today.  Patek Philippe: The Origin Story The company that would be known as Patek Philippe had its foundation laid in 1839, when a Polish watchmaker named Antoni Norbert de Patek and his business partner, Czech-born François Czapek, partnered to form Patek, Czapek, & Cie, in Geneva. The company produced pocket watches for a relatively brief period before disagreements between the two founders precipitated the dissolving of the partnership, and the firm, by 1845. That same year, Patek began a new partnership with a French watchmaker named Adrien Philippe, whose historical claim to fame was the invention of the keyless winding system for watches. Together, they established a new company, Patek & Cie., to continue making watches, which officially became Patek, Philippe, & Cie. in 1851. That year was pivo...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Doxa Jul 9, 2025

Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Review

The Doxa name is certainly among the superstars of the classic dive-watch universe, and the Doxa we think of first is almost invariably the orange-dialed Sub 300 Professional, as well as the black-dialed Sharkhunter version, as worn by legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau. But Doxa’s diving history predates the 1967 introduction of the 300, and today we’re looking at a watch that harks back to those earlier models, specifically those with twisted-lug cases that preceded the tonneau-shaped Sub 300 we associate most with the brand. This is the Doxa Sub 200, specifically the Sharkhunter variant, and it’s a fantastic-looking callback to the early ‘60s.  Best of all, it represents the entry point into the modern Doxa lineup at just a shade above $1,000 retail, and if you’re not a fan of black dials, the brand known for its colorful divers has seven other colorways to choose from. But today, we’re going to take a closer look at the 200 that most closely resembles its vintage inspiration, the black-dialed Sharkhunter model. In its most basic black form, the dial is a slice of midcentury perfection. This is the watch Mad Men's Don Draper would wear on a weekend getaway to Palm Springs. Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Case:  You'd be forgiven if you thought the case of the Sub 200 was influenced by a vintage Omega Seamaster 300, but it turns out that the look of the case is a direct callback to Doxa's history. The lyre-lugged design is a direct descendant of the vintage...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Citizen Jul 8, 2025

Citizen Tsuyosa Review

The Citizen Tsuyosa debuted back in 2022 as an integrated bracelet watch with a mechanical movement that was truly affordable with a price under $500. While the Tsuyosa collection was initially a little difficult to get in the US, Citizen started to ship these watches to the States a few months after the initial release. Since then it’s been a popular enough watch although I do think it has eluded the runaway cult classic success of something like the Tissot PRX for reasons that could have to do with marketing as well as a more subdued design that is more dress watch than a retro-inspired sports watch. There have been a couple of iterations of the Tsuyosa since it was released including a slightly more premium central seconds model and a smaller 37mm iteration released earlier in 2025. I will address both of these at the end of the article with a breakdown of what’s different, better, and worse from the standard 40mm reviewed here. The Citizen Tsuyosa finds some inspiration from the old NH299 series which was popular in the late ‘90s and early 2000s. The one design touch that separates the Tsuyosa from a lot of its competitors was also borrowed from the NH299: the small off-center crown seen at 4 o’clock. As a brief aside, I know some people cannot stand a crown at 4 o’clock due to symmetry but I would argue a large protruding crown at 3 o’clock creates far more asymmetry than one sitting so flushly at 4 o’clock. So, let’s get into the Citizen Tsuyosa and w...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Breitling Jul 7, 2025

Ride the Tide with Breitling

Join us at the Teddy Baldassarre Boutique for an exclusive day celebrating the iconic Breitling Superocean Heritage collection. Experience the spirit of the sea as we do a deep dive into the latest timepieces inspired by the brand’s legendary dive watch legacy.  Enjoy champagne, specialty cocktails, and seasonal bites

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