Skeleton & Openworked Watches · Page 20

Hands-on – The Super-Openworked Artime ART01 Tourbillon Makes A Bold Statement

It’s tempting to delve into the detailed backgrounds of the individuals behind this independent creation, the Artime ART01 Tourbillon. Each name, obscure to the general public, speaks volumes to watch professionals and enthusiasts with a deeper knowledge of who’s who. Initially, I felt it imperative to provide profiles for each of them when tasked with […]

First Look – The Speake Marin One & Two Openworked Sandblasted Red Gold And Titanium

If Speake Marin has recently made waves with its sport-chic Ripples line, its Piccadilly case remains a brand signature Inherently Speake Marin. Watches featuring the Piccadilly case embody British elegance, controlled eccentricity, and classic Swiss Haute Horlogerie. The One & Two collection underwent a tasteful revamping in 2017 in collaboration with watch designer Eric Giroud. […]

The Hublot Big Bang Unico SAXEM Green is a mean, green, alien-looking wrist machine

This is one of the most sci-fi-looking watches Hublot has ever made, thanks to its alien green case, bracelet and openworked dial.The post The Hublot Big Bang Unico SAXEM Green is a mean, green, alien-looking wrist machine appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Taps One of their Favorite Artist Collaborators for the new Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinksi

For this year’s LVMH Watch Week, Hublot has unveiled their latest collaboration with the artist Richard Orlinskli, a pair of limited edition tourbillons in pop-art inspired shades with dramatically skeletonized dials. The Hublot partnership with Orlinski goes back to 2017, and during the ensuing years the Swiss watch brand and French contemporary artist have developed a bona fide collection within a collection. The Orlinski pieces, whether they’re to your taste or not, are so clearly connected to the artist that they are immediately recognizable, often using bold colors and prominent facets at oblique angles, a style that is a clear extension of his sculpture work. The new Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski is full of familiar ideas from previous collaborations and Hublot mainstays, but pulled together into something that feels entirely new.  The new collaboration starts with a 45mm Classic Fusion case in either yellow of sky blue ceramic, but true to form with the Orlinski watches, Hublot has given the artist the opportunity to shape and mold the case to his taste, adding the contours and facets that make the pieces so identifiable as “Orlinskis” to begin with. It’s uncommon for watch brands to give their collaborating partners this level of freedom, but it’s something we’ve seen from Hublot not just with Orlinksi, but in their work with tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi as well. Say what you will about Hublot, but they deserve credit for allowing the arti...

Frederique Constant Introduces The Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Skeleton by Peter Speake

In 2022, Frederique Constant launched a special version of its Slimline Perpetual Calendar in collaboration with The Naked Watchmaker. Roughly 18 months later, this joint effort gets a new chapter with another version of the same watch. This time around, however, the new edition comes courtesy of Peter Speake. He is no longer part of […] Visit Frederique Constant Introduces The Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Skeleton by Peter Speake to read the full article.

New: Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar

Frederique Constant unveils the new Slimline Perpetual Calendar with an openworked dial, in a collaboration with Peter Speake.

Introducing – The Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Skeleton by Peter Speake

Frederique Constant, renowned, among other things, for its remarkable price-to-quality ratio, surprised the watch community with its original Slimline Perpetual Calendar model 2016. This competitively priced (under EUR 10,000) watch, equipped with the brand’s FC-775 perpetual calendar calibre, quickly gained recognition. In 2022, Frederique Constant presented an unexpected update to this model through a collaboration […]

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon

The latest iteration of Roger Dubuis’ signature model is the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon. A limited edition conceived for the Chinese Lunar Near Year, the watch features an stylised dragon composed of 27 brass plates that integrate the mythical creature into the bridges of the open-worked movement. Initial thoughts Best known for ultra-contemporary, open-worked calibres, Roger Dubuis (RD) specialises in extravagant designs, including the recent Knights of the Round Table. The Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillion is a prime example of what the brand does best. In contrast to most dragon-themed watches that are either traditional or whimsical, the Excalibur Dragon portrays the dragon in a modern, almost abstract manner. Although the watch is big and bold, attention has been paid to the finer details. The movement is open-worked in typical RD fashion and finished to Poinçon de Genève standards, which means bevelled edges, chambered flanks, and polished pins, amongst other things. And while the pronounced styling might not be for everyone, the Excalibur Dragon is actually more wearable than the typical complicated RD watch. At 42 mm in diameter and a bit over 12 mm high, it is moderately sized relative to much of the brand’s offerings. At CHF195,000, the Excalibur Dragon sits in between its most obvious comparables on the price spectrum, more affordable than Richard Mille and pricier than Hublot. The movement inside is arguably better executed than those of its rivals, t...

Three New Watches Celebrate the Year of the Wood Dragon

The Lunar New Year is set to begin on Feb 10th, coinciding with the date of the new moon, which will fall at 22:59 UTC on February 9th. This will be the Year of the Wood Dragon, which is said to bring authority, prosperity, and good fortune. We are in luck, as the good fortune starts early with multiple releases from many brands celebrating the new Lunar Year. Here are three stand out releases.  First up, the Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Dragon. Since 2020, the Blast Tourbillon has been Ulysse Nardin’s symbol of unconventional know-how and for this Lunar New Year, they are quite literally releasing their inner dragon. They have crafted a 5N rose gold hand-sculpted dragon that coils its way around and through the skeletonized “X” structure. The entire case is made of 5N rose gold and DLC coated titanium. Limited to 88 pieces, it is 45mm in diameter and the MSRP of $100,600.  Next up is the Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar. In 2012 Blancpain achieved a world first, with a watch that combined both the complex Chinese calendar and a Gregorian date and moonphase. To celebrate the Lunar New Year, Blancpain has engraved a dragon on the red gold rotor flanked by a red ruby. This ultra complicated movement has 464 individual components on 6 layers and its complexity nearly matches that of a minute repeater. The dial has been created in full fired grand feu enamel, its green color harmonizing with the red gold case. Limited to 50 pieces, it is also 45mm in d...

Norqain’s bold, bright and blue Wild One Skeleton in Turquoise

Garrick Launches an S2 with the Most Esoteric of Complications: Deadbeat Seconds

Garrick, one of our favorite watchmakers in the burgeoning “micro-indie” space, has introduced a watch that is truly niche to start 2024. Really, it’s a niche of a niche, because even the most straightforward Garrick is a highly specialized enthusiast focused object. Each one is custom made for its owner, and Garrick offers a head spinning variety of customization options so clients can truly make their new watch their own. Now, with the latest entrant in Garrick’s growing S2 lineup, customers can opt for one of the most unusual and esoteric complications of all: the deadbeat second.    The Garrick S2 Deadbeat Seconds employs the  Calibre DB-GO6, a movement built from the ground up with an unusual party trick: instead of a smooth sweeping motion that most mechanical watch collectors are accustomed to, the seconds hand driven by this caliber “ticks” in a manner that is similar to a quartz watch. It’s anachronistic to say the least, and the complication has come to represent something akin to an insider’s secret for the way it upends expectations about how we expect a mechanical watch to function. Historically, the complication has roots in the scientific community, as timing events to the second in this manner was advantageous in certain circumstances.  The S2 case is 42mm in stainless steel (gold cases are also available) and customers begin the custom ordering process by selecting either a MK 1 dial (with a heat blued skeletonized chapter ring) or a MK...

Introducing – The New Blue Mido Multifort Skeleton Vertigo

Mido’s Multifort line has been in production since 1934 and was the brand’s first model fitted with an automatic movement. Earning its ‘Multifort’ credentials, the watch was waterproof, automatic, anti-magnetic and shock-resistant, delivering a robust package at an aggressive price that made it a best seller from the 1930s to the 1950s. Skeletonised dials are […]

Who the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Eight Days is really for

Ultra-thin and ultra-luxe, but why does it exist?The post Who the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Eight Days is really for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hamilton highlights of 2023: cinema cameos, exploration and skeletonisation

We recap the best releases of 2023 by fan-favourites Hamilton.The post The Hamilton highlights of 2023: cinema cameos, exploration and skeletonisation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Azure and Diver X Skeleton Azure plunge into sustainable luxury

As one of the front-runners in sustainable watchmaking, Ulysse Nardin show off their best use of recycled materials.The post The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Azure and Diver X Skeleton Azure plunge into sustainable luxury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First Look – The Bold Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton “Year of the Dragon”

Since its debut in 1957, the Hamilton Ventura has been a head-turner primarily because of its unconventional shape and, technically, because it was the first electric watch on the market. However, the wrist that catapulted the watch to fame belonged to Elvis Presley, who wore the watch in the 1961 film Blue Hawaii. To celebrate […]

Bulova Refreshes the Sutton Line with New Rectangular Dress Watches, and a Pair of Mechanical Pocket Watches. Yes, Pocket Watches

Consider the pocket watch. While some may consider this genre of timepiece to be anachronistic, there is something excessively charming about the extended ritual one has when checking the time. While the pocket watch has lost some popularity to its wrist-bound cousin, there appears to still be interest in producing high-quality timepieces with a bit of vintage flair. Or, at least, Bulova thinks so. The watch company has recently released a new series of pocket watches inspired by the distinct and charming Sutton model. Adding depth to the Sutton design language, this new pair of pocket watches seamlessly bridges the gap between old and new and makes the pocket watch – somehow – feel totally modern.  The Sutton pocket watches boast a sleek 50mm polished stainless steel case and a snap case back featuring a vertically brushed finish in both a gold and silver tone option. With a water resistance of 30 meters and a 42-hour power reserve thanks to the 8N24 skeleton movement, these timepieces are a blend of form and function. Each element of the pocket watch is designed to represent the heritage and meticulous detail of Bulova as a brand and the Sutton as its direct inspiration. The bale seamlessly follows the architectural lines of the case, continuing through the chain and adorned with the iconic Bulova tuning fork clasp. Each color option has its own personality that enhances the overall look of the watch itself. The silver reference is paired with blue-tone Roman numera...

The Sophomore Effort from Indie Havid Nagan Modernizes a Classic Complication

In the sea of vintage-inspired, sport-watch focused microbrands – with which there is nothing wrong, of course – are a select few brands who seem to have stumbled upon an aesthetic that is uniquely theirs. One such example is Havid Nagan whose 2021 debut model was aptly named HN00. We were impressed with it and covered it here, and today Havid Nagan is back with the follow-up to its opening shot: Introducing the HN01 Lucine, Havid Nagan’s interpretation of, and ode to, the moonphase. So what changed and what hasn’t? The closest thing the two watches share are their cases: The HN01 titanium cushion-esque case keeps the same 40.2mm diameter as its predecessor but has slimmed down from 11.6mm thick to only 10.2mm. Its profile has also been massaged slightly to better accentuate its profile. This is even more impressive when you consider the effort required to fit an entirely new complication module inside. The HN01 Lucine’s powertrain is a Chronode base movement that has been heavily modified to include a moonphase module (which itself has been improved to err only one day from every 2.5 years to every 11.6 years). The module itself, which displays the moon at 12 o’clock, contains two photorealistic moons that float on a “mystery” style transparent sapphire wheel. Havid Nagan has also taken it upon themselves to decorate the movement with hand-applied anglage and additional perlage clouds on the mainplate (both sides) and skeletonized bridges. There is also a...

Hands-on – The Bianchet Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B 1.618

After a career in financial technology, the Festa-Bianchet couple embarked on a new entrepreneurial project driven by their passion and desire to create their own watches. As evident from their inaugural timepiece, the B 1.618 Openwork, they have specialized in crafting ultra-modern tourbillons, with the number 1.618 serving as a reference to the golden ratio, […]

Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table

Now the signature watch of Roger Dubuis’ modern-day offerings, the Knights of the Round Table “Titanium Damascus” is inspired by the Arthurian fable. The latest edition is centred on the theme of “ice and fire” – the reference to Game of Thrones is unmissable – and is surprisingly artisanal despite the ultra-contemporary aesthetic. Decorated with blue Murano glass and Limoges porcelain, the dial has 12 knights around a frozen lake – a miniature diorama depicting the knights confronting imminent peril emerging from the waters’ depths – and a case made of a pattern-welded titanium alloy. Initial thoughts The “ice and fire” edition is no doubt catered for a niche audience – and at 45 mm few can wear it easily – but still has a unique appeal. Moreover, it departs from the modern, skeletonised style that’s characteristic of the brand’s automotive-inspired timepieces. It merges artisanal decoration and modern watchmaking – it is big and bold but boasts unexpectedly intricate detailing. The watch encapsulates the Roger Dubuis “hyper horology” ethos in both design and construction, while the dial and movement (which is hallmarked with the Poincon de Geneve) stay faithful to traditional watchmaking and decoration. This Knights of the Round Table is priced at approximately US$374,000, putting it in the same price range as other editions in the series. It is also priced similarly to comparably extravagant watches from the likes of Jacob & Co., bu...

Introducing: Travis Scott Presents The AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked ‘Cactus Jack’ LE

Houston-born rapper Travis Scott partners with AP on a new chocolate brown ceramic QP.

Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack”

Rumours of a brown ceramic Royal Oak began circulating several months ago, and the latest launch from Audemars Piguet (AP) has proven them true. However, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” 41 mm is more than a new colour, and instead it’s a 200-piece limited edition collaboration with American Rapper Travis Scott and his streetwear label Cactus Jack. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is interesting for being more than just a change of dial colour, which is usually the route taken for limited editions. While it is based on the standard model, the “Cactus Jack” gets a brown ceramic case as well as typography based on the musician’s handwriting on the dial, along with Cactus Jack’s smiley emblem for the moons. Notably, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is just one part of AP’s collaboration with Mr Scott. Their tie-up also includes a line of clothing, including hoodies, t-shirts, and caps, that will be available on Cactus Jack’s own retail site. Initial thoughts Although the “Cactus Jack” is fundamentally identical to the regular production skeleton perpetual in ceramic, it looks strikingly different because of the case. Typically I am not a fan of brown ceramic, but here the material sets the watch apart instantly. This differentiation is a good thing since there are many, many version of the Royal Oak perpetual calendar – the non-skeleton ceramic model is already available in b...

First Look – The Travis Scott x AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” Brown Ceramic

Collaborations and watches inspired by pop and street culture are, without a doubt, an important part of Audemars Piguet‘s recent history. No other brand on the haute horlogerie scene has fostered such creative synergies with different universes. Sport, pop culture, art, fashion and entertainment… It looks at things from a different perspective, like it or […]

Introducing – Capturing the Cosmos with the Holthinrichs Deconstructed Aventurine & Meteorite

Dutch 3D-print watchmaking pioneer Michiel Holthinrichs has moved his watchmaking vision in a new direction with the Deconstructed, which we showed you earlier in the year. This mighty impressive creation had a distinct SciFi exoskeleton vibe, and Holthinrichs Watches now expands the line with two more space-themed watches. Capturing the cosmos with each of the […]