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Skeleton & Openworked Watches · Page 20

1,031 articles · Page 20 of 43
Norqain Doubles Down on Its Wild One Collection with New Colorways and an Innovative Platform Where You Can Create a Custom Model Worn & Wound
Apr 12, 2024

Norqain Doubles Down on Its Wild One Collection with New Colorways and an Innovative Platform Where You Can Create a Custom Model

When it comes to ones to watch, Norqain definitely makes the list. In the past year in particular, its momentum seems to be steadily growing. Right now, the brand is notching its first Watches & Wonders, and just ahead of the show, seasoned collector Mark Wahlberg was spotted rocking the Wild One Skeleton all around town-I’d say this gives Norqain some serious street cred. Last week, the brand also shared some pretty exciting news: three-time Grand Slam-winning tennis champion Stan Wawrinka is now an invested partner in the company, and he inspired two new versions of the popular Wild One Skeleton. In addition, Norqain has doubled down on the collection, unveiling a totally new platform where you can create your very own piece unique Wild One.  You’ll recall when Norqain’s Wild One got the skeleton treatment last year. The new configuration offered the benefit of a reimagined dial revealing the COSC-certified Caliber N08S (Sellita SW200-1 S c) movement but still fell a bit short in terms of legibility. Still, the model delivered on performance thanks to the brand’s proprietary, ultra-lightweight, rigid, and durable carbon fiber derived NORTEQ material that makes up a large portion of the case body and can withstand shocks up to 5,000g. This feature was a major draw for Wawrinka, who put the turquoise variation to the test on the court at the U.S. Open last year and now brings us two new colorways fit for the upcoming Grand Slam season: a bright coral iteration f...
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H. Moser Introduces a Skeletonized Streamliner Tourbillon in Steel Worn & Wound
Apr 12, 2024

H. Moser Introduces a Skeletonized Streamliner Tourbillon in Steel

Just in time for Watches & Wonders 2024, H. Moser & Cie. has unveiled the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Double Hairspring. In other words? Moser has produced a dramatically skeletonized flying tourbillon movement with their signature double hairspring, and they’ve put it in a Streamliner. It’s been a few years now since H. Moser & Cie. released the very first Streamliner, and there can be no doubt that in a very short time, that watch has come to represent the brand in a very real way. Since the launch of the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph four years ago, Moser’s somewhat quirky entry into the integrated bracelet market has seen a steady stream of new releases and added complication, and today sees yet another new execution. This isn’t one of those new releases that shows us a bunch of things we’ve never seen before, but rather draws from several disparate threads that have been floating around the Moser universe and ties them together into a single, compelling package. The Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton builds on the premise of the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack that Zach reviewed back in 2022. But where that watch hid its movement behind literally as black a dial as you can possibly find, this year’s release goes in another direction, one more in line with another 2022 Moser release, the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon. What results is a watch that is exactly what you might expect, given the name on the tin. The Streamliner Tourbillon Sk...
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The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak Worn & Wound
Apr 10, 2024

The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak

The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was such a hit that they decided to make a sequel. Okay, that’s not totally accurate. 2022’s unexpected breakout watch did get a new version just two years later, but rather than a sequel, it’s more of a redux-a different take on the same story. A director’s cut? For those who need a recap, however, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was nothing short of complete and utter shock when first unveiled, even though there had already been a teaser trailer (I’m going to try to keep this movie thing up) in the form the T0 concept movement. While known for its finishing, spring drive, and high-beat movements, Grand Seiko was not considered a manufacturer of high-end complications. As such, even though it was a concept movement, the T0, which unveiled a novel constant-force tourbillon, took everyone by surprise. When Grand Seiko then unveiled the Kodo just a short while later, which included a refined and manufacturable version (if on a small scale) of the same complication within a skeletonized and highly finished movement on par with any haute Swiss brand, it announced that Grand Seiko was ready to play on a different level. A few years later, the Kodo, though sold out, is still being assembled via a team of three specialized watchmakers within Grand Seiko Atelier Ginza studio. Back to the present. Light and shadow are pervasive themes in Grand Seiko’s design. Alongside nature, they are at the core of their ...
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Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integrated in a 38mm Case Worn & Wound
Apr 10, 2024

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integrated in a 38mm Case

Today, Hublot has announced not one, but six new versions of the Big Bang Integrated Time Only, and here’s the kicker - this time they’re 38mm. When the first Hublot watch was launched by Carlo Crocco all the way back in 1980, it stood out. Totally different from anything else on the market, it supposedly took Crocco and his team at MDM Watches three years to develop the rubber strap for the first Hublot. The juxtaposition of a high-end gold case and an integrated rubber strap defined that first watch and “The Art of Fusion” would become the signature of a brand defined by experimentation. It was in that spirit that Hublot released the first Big Bang on a bracelet in 2020 (just a few weeks before the pandemic, as it turned out). I remember the prevailing sentiment at the time being slight surprise that a braceleted Big Bang didn’t already exist and a bemused “okay” before everyone got very distracted by the world shutting down. That first 42mm Big Bang Integral Chronograph was followed up by a 40mm Big Bang Integral Time Only two years later. Those first two Integral models featured skeletonized sapphire dials and sporty red and black highlights. Like many large Hublot releases, they each felt decidedly masculine. Today’s new Big Bang Integrated Time Only releases are much more sedate, swapping sapphire skeleton dials for solid ones finished in somewhat more traditional polished blacks or sunray blues. With their more neutral designs and smaller case siz...
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Chopard Extends Its Collection With Two Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Models And The Skeletonized Titanium Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT Fratello
Apr 10, 2024

Chopard Extends Its Collection With Two Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Models And The Skeletonized Titanium Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is one of my favorite releases of the past few years. The watch came out last year at Watches and Wonders and proved to be one of the show’s highlights. It’s spectacular salmon/copper dial shows the incredible potential of the watch. Not only is the color spectacular, but adding […] Visit Chopard Extends Its Collection With Two Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Models And The Skeletonized Titanium Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT to read the full article.
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First Look - The Highly Anticipated Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph (incl. Video) Monochrome
Apr 9, 2024

First Look - The Highly Anticipated Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph (incl. Video)

Introduced in 2021, the Defy Skyline is an important sub-collection within Zenith’s contemporary Defy series. Since its inception, the collection has flourished to encompass over 20 references spanning time and date, skeleton, and tourbillon-regulated models. These come in various sizes and are adorned with various colours, materials, and even precious stones. Despite its rich offerings, […]
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Roger Dubuis Introduces the “Orbis in Machina” Central Tourbillon SJX Watches
Apr 9, 2024

Roger Dubuis Introduces the “Orbis in Machina” Central Tourbillon

No stranger to extravagant timepieces, Roger Dubuis’ brand of “Hyper Horology” is apparent in its bold design language and intricate, showy movements. For Watches & Wonders 2024 the manufacture presents the Roger Dubuis Orbis In Machina Central Monotourbillon, a central tourbillon with an expectedly classical movement. Initial thoughts The way Roger Dubuis carries itself now is very different from the brand’s early, classically styled pieces. The current house style is centred on mechanical aesthetics, angular shapes, and large cases with proprietary triple lugs. The Orbis in Machina sticks to that familiar style, although the front appears more subdued and technical than the average Roger Dubuis complication. Despite the layered and open-worked dial, the technicality of the piece is mostly concealed. Orbis in Machina still carries a few embellishments, resulting in a design that is clearly opulent in a hyper-mechanical sort of way. Seemingly sitting at the top of a stack of moving parts on the dial, the tourbillon regulator serves as the centrepiece. Paradoxically, the more restrained composition on the outside contrasts with the interesting and sophisticated mechanics within. The movement fills up the large case, creating a sense of visual density. This is more evident on the back, which tells a whole different story compared to the front. The display back reveals an intricate and exquisitely finished movement. Stylistically, the RD115 movement is also an unusual...
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Zenith Introduces a Long Awaited Chronograph to the Defy Skyline Collection Worn & Wound
Apr 9, 2024

Zenith Introduces a Long Awaited Chronograph to the Defy Skyline Collection

Zenith returns to the Defy collection this year at Watches & Wonders with the introduction of a Defy Skyline Chronograph. This is a version of the next-gen Defy that Zenith fans have been anticipating since the collection’s debut, given the long line of chronographs that have populated Defy collections past and present. The new Defy Skyline Chronograph follows iterations of the Skyline that have played with materials and skeletonization, so it seems possible (even likely) that eventually the chronograph will get similar treatment. For now, we have a trio of references in stainless steel that feel like a logical extension of the Defy Skyline series.  The 42mm case is effectively unchanged from previous skylines, and is Zenith’s contemporary take on the original 8-sided Defy case first seen in the late 1960s. The Defy, as opposed to the Chronomaster and Pilot lines, has always been Zenith’s playground for the avant-garde and the unusual, and the highly sculptural case design of this watch, that traces a lineage back to the original, underscores the very nature of what the Defy is.  Dial options at launch include metallic black, blue, and silver, and feature the signature star pattern that has been present in the Skyline from the beginning. The subdials are oversized and overlap just slightly (perhaps not as much as on a Chronomaster) and are color matched to the main dial, but do not feature the Skyline stars. As with most other watches running on El Primero movement...
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H. Moser & Cie goes fully see-through with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Time+Tide
Apr 8, 2024

H. Moser & Cie goes fully see-through with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton

The second skeleton model from the independent watchmaker, it uses the same codes but in a new look. Highly complex with a double hairspring tourbillon at 6 o’clock. A great, yet pricey addition to the skeletonised integrated sports watch segment, at $86,900. The Streamliner has become an incredibly popular offering from independent watchmaker H. Moser … ContinuedThe post H. Moser & Cie goes fully see-through with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hands-On With The New Zelos Spearfish Dual Time - A Complex Titanium Surprise Fratello
Apr 7, 2024

Hands-On With The New Zelos Spearfish Dual Time - A Complex Titanium Surprise

It may seem like an odd question, and knowing Elshan Tang’s brand progression personally, I will not be asking it, but you might. If you’re used to his tough budget-priced divers, this new Spearfish is a leap in price and style. Is the open-worked Swiss taste worth it? I love seeing small brands climb the […] Visit Hands-On With The New Zelos Spearfish Dual Time - A Complex Titanium Surprise to read the full article.
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S.U.F Helsinki Introduces the “Moomin” Diver SJX Watches
Apr 3, 2024

S.U.F Helsinki Introduces the “Moomin” Diver

A bestselling franchise launched two years ago, S.U.F. Helsinki’s latest Moomin edition is the Moomin Diver. Based on the brand’s Vetehinen diver, the Moomin diver features an illustration from Moomin and the Comet that depicts the titular character diving. As with past Moomin editions, the diver features a laser-engraved and hand finished dial with lots of Super-Luminova. Initial thoughts The Moomin watches by S.U.F., the affordable sub-brand of Sarpaneva, are fun value propositions that offer a good quality of dial and case work for the price. This is typical of S.U.F. as well as Sarpaneva in their respective price segments. Priced similarly to the very first model at €5,550, the latest edition continues that while introducing a new dial motif. This is a timely change since the original dial design had already been repeated several times, including on the pricier, full-fledged Sarpaneva version. While the latest edition doesn’t have the same level of detail on the dial – it’s mostly engraved as opposed to being substantially open worked – it brings a new look with the dive watch aesthetic. Though the Moomin editions have been repeated several times, perhaps too often, this is an appealing new launch considering the price-performance ratio and relatively small edition size of 52 watches across two dial types. Diving-themed diver’s watch The new diver features a steel dial that reproduces a drawing from Moomin and the Comet, one of the many Moomin books pen...
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Introducing - The New Bianchet Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT Monochrome
Mar 27, 2024

Introducing - The New Bianchet Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT

In 2021, Bianchet, an independent, family-owned and family-operated brand, unveiled its inaugural creation, the B1.618 Tourbillon Openworked. This limited edition timepiece established the foundation for Bianchet’s design language and ethos. Building upon this foundation, the brand introduced subsequent releases, including the B1.618 Grande Date and, for this year, the B1.618 Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT. True […]
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Comments 5

  1. Karam
    The Greubel Forsey architecture mentioned here is genuinely impressive from a chronometry standpoint. Those openworked layouts don't come cheap in terms of manufacturing tolerances. Curious if the article touched on how skeleton designs affect COSC certification or if there's any measurable deviation penalty versus solid movement cases.
  2. Anonymous
    Skeleton watches always feel a bit theatrical to me, like you're paying extra just to see the gears spinning. That said, there's something genuinely beautiful about the hand-pierced pocket watches from the 18th century mentioned here. Modern ones feel like they're trying too hard.
  3. WatchHusk
    The AP Royal Oak Skeleton and Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon get all the press, but honestly if you want to appreciate openworked movements without the six-figure price tag, look at what the microbrands are doing. Brands like Nezumi Studios and Raven are exploring skeleton concepts with real craftsmanship and way more soul per dollar spent.
  4. Reece
    been looking at skeleton watches and wondering about the depreciation angle. AP Royal Oak holds value pretty well historically, but does the skeleton variant retain differently than the standard model? cost of ownership over 5 years must be brutal if you're paying sport watch prices for something you mainly wear on weekends.
  5. Ravi
    Is a skeleton watch actually worth it as a first watch versus something like a standard Submariner or Speedmaster. I love the look but some of the collector stuff seems way out of budget. Should I be patient and save or is there a good entry point.

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