Skeleton & Openworked Watches · Page 22

Three New Watches Celebrate the Year of the Wood Dragon

The Lunar New Year is set to begin on Feb 10th, coinciding with the date of the new moon, which will fall at 22:59 UTC on February 9th. This will be the Year of the Wood Dragon, which is said to bring authority, prosperity, and good fortune. We are in luck, as the good fortune starts early with multiple releases from many brands celebrating the new Lunar Year. Here are three stand out releases.  First up, the Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Dragon. Since 2020, the Blast Tourbillon has been Ulysse Nardin’s symbol of unconventional know-how and for this Lunar New Year, they are quite literally releasing their inner dragon. They have crafted a 5N rose gold hand-sculpted dragon that coils its way around and through the skeletonized “X” structure. The entire case is made of 5N rose gold and DLC coated titanium. Limited to 88 pieces, it is 45mm in diameter and the MSRP of $100,600.  Next up is the Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar. In 2012 Blancpain achieved a world first, with a watch that combined both the complex Chinese calendar and a Gregorian date and moonphase. To celebrate the Lunar New Year, Blancpain has engraved a dragon on the red gold rotor flanked by a red ruby. This ultra complicated movement has 464 individual components on 6 layers and its complexity nearly matches that of a minute repeater. The dial has been created in full fired grand feu enamel, its green color harmonizing with the red gold case. Limited to 50 pieces, it is also 45mm in d...

Norqain’s bold, bright and blue Wild One Skeleton in Turquoise

Garrick Launches an S2 with the Most Esoteric of Complications: Deadbeat Seconds

Garrick, one of our favorite watchmakers in the burgeoning “micro-indie” space, has introduced a watch that is truly niche to start 2024. Really, it’s a niche of a niche, because even the most straightforward Garrick is a highly specialized enthusiast focused object. Each one is custom made for its owner, and Garrick offers a head spinning variety of customization options so clients can truly make their new watch their own. Now, with the latest entrant in Garrick’s growing S2 lineup, customers can opt for one of the most unusual and esoteric complications of all: the deadbeat second.    The Garrick S2 Deadbeat Seconds employs the  Calibre DB-GO6, a movement built from the ground up with an unusual party trick: instead of a smooth sweeping motion that most mechanical watch collectors are accustomed to, the seconds hand driven by this caliber “ticks” in a manner that is similar to a quartz watch. It’s anachronistic to say the least, and the complication has come to represent something akin to an insider’s secret for the way it upends expectations about how we expect a mechanical watch to function. Historically, the complication has roots in the scientific community, as timing events to the second in this manner was advantageous in certain circumstances.  The S2 case is 42mm in stainless steel (gold cases are also available) and customers begin the custom ordering process by selecting either a MK 1 dial (with a heat blued skeletonized chapter ring) or a MK...

Introducing - The New Blue Mido Multifort Skeleton Vertigo

Mido’s Multifort line has been in production since 1934 and was the brand’s first model fitted with an automatic movement. Earning its ‘Multifort’ credentials, the watch was waterproof, automatic, anti-magnetic and shock-resistant, delivering a robust package at an aggressive price that made it a best seller from the 1930s to the 1950s. Skeletonised dials are […]

Who the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Eight Days is really for

Ultra-thin and ultra-luxe, but why does it exist?The post Who the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Eight Days is really for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hamilton highlights of 2023: cinema cameos, exploration and skeletonisation

We recap the best releases of 2023 by fan-favourites Hamilton.The post The Hamilton highlights of 2023: cinema cameos, exploration and skeletonisation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Azure and Diver X Skeleton Azure plunge into sustainable luxury

As one of the front-runners in sustainable watchmaking, Ulysse Nardin show off their best use of recycled materials.The post The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Azure and Diver X Skeleton Azure plunge into sustainable luxury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First Look - The Bold Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton “Year of the Dragon”

Since its debut in 1957, the Hamilton Ventura has been a head-turner primarily because of its unconventional shape and, technically, because it was the first electric watch on the market. However, the wrist that catapulted the watch to fame belonged to Elvis Presley, who wore the watch in the 1961 film Blue Hawaii. To celebrate […]

Bulova Refreshes the Sutton Line with New Rectangular Dress Watches, and a Pair of Mechanical Pocket Watches. Yes, Pocket Watches

Consider the pocket watch. While some may consider this genre of timepiece to be anachronistic, there is something excessively charming about the extended ritual one has when checking the time. While the pocket watch has lost some popularity to its wrist-bound cousin, there appears to still be interest in producing high-quality timepieces with a bit of vintage flair. Or, at least, Bulova thinks so. The watch company has recently released a new series of pocket watches inspired by the distinct and charming Sutton model. Adding depth to the Sutton design language, this new pair of pocket watches seamlessly bridges the gap between old and new and makes the pocket watch – somehow – feel totally modern.  The Sutton pocket watches boast a sleek 50mm polished stainless steel case and a snap case back featuring a vertically brushed finish in both a gold and silver tone option. With a water resistance of 30 meters and a 42-hour power reserve thanks to the 8N24 skeleton movement, these timepieces are a blend of form and function. Each element of the pocket watch is designed to represent the heritage and meticulous detail of Bulova as a brand and the Sutton as its direct inspiration. The bale seamlessly follows the architectural lines of the case, continuing through the chain and adorned with the iconic Bulova tuning fork clasp. Each color option has its own personality that enhances the overall look of the watch itself. The silver reference is paired with blue-tone Roman numera...

The Sophomore Effort from Indie Havid Nagan Modernizes a Classic Complication

In the sea of vintage-inspired, sport-watch focused microbrands – with which there is nothing wrong, of course – are a select few brands who seem to have stumbled upon an aesthetic that is uniquely theirs. One such example is Havid Nagan whose 2021 debut model was aptly named HN00. We were impressed with it and covered it here, and today Havid Nagan is back with the follow-up to its opening shot: Introducing the HN01 Lucine, Havid Nagan’s interpretation of, and ode to, the moonphase. So what changed and what hasn’t? The closest thing the two watches share are their cases: The HN01 titanium cushion-esque case keeps the same 40.2mm diameter as its predecessor but has slimmed down from 11.6mm thick to only 10.2mm. Its profile has also been massaged slightly to better accentuate its profile. This is even more impressive when you consider the effort required to fit an entirely new complication module inside. The HN01 Lucine’s powertrain is a Chronode base movement that has been heavily modified to include a moonphase module (which itself has been improved to err only one day from every 2.5 years to every 11.6 years). The module itself, which displays the moon at 12 o’clock, contains two photorealistic moons that float on a “mystery” style transparent sapphire wheel. Havid Nagan has also taken it upon themselves to decorate the movement with hand-applied anglage and additional perlage clouds on the mainplate (both sides) and skeletonized bridges. There is also a...

Hands-on - The Bianchet Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B 1.618

After a career in financial technology, the Festa-Bianchet couple embarked on a new entrepreneurial project driven by their passion and desire to create their own watches. As evident from their inaugural timepiece, the B 1.618 Openwork, they have specialized in crafting ultra-modern tourbillons, with the number 1.618 serving as a reference to the golden ratio, […]

Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table

Now the signature watch of Roger Dubuis’ modern-day offerings, the Knights of the Round Table “Titanium Damascus” is inspired by the Arthurian fable. The latest edition is centred on the theme of “ice and fire” – the reference to Game of Thrones is unmissable – and is surprisingly artisanal despite the ultra-contemporary aesthetic. Decorated with blue Murano glass and Limoges porcelain, the dial has 12 knights around a frozen lake – a miniature diorama depicting the knights confronting imminent peril emerging from the waters’ depths – and a case made of a pattern-welded titanium alloy. Initial thoughts The “ice and fire” edition is no doubt catered for a niche audience – and at 45 mm few can wear it easily – but still has a unique appeal. Moreover, it departs from the modern, skeletonised style that’s characteristic of the brand’s automotive-inspired timepieces. It merges artisanal decoration and modern watchmaking – it is big and bold but boasts unexpectedly intricate detailing. The watch encapsulates the Roger Dubuis “hyper horology” ethos in both design and construction, while the dial and movement (which is hallmarked with the Poincon de Geneve) stay faithful to traditional watchmaking and decoration. This Knights of the Round Table is priced at approximately US$374,000, putting it in the same price range as other editions in the series. It is also priced similarly to comparably extravagant watches from the likes of Jacob & Co., bu...

Introducing: Travis Scott Presents The AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked ‘Cactus Jack’ LE

Houston-born rapper Travis Scott partners with AP on a new chocolate brown ceramic QP.

Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack”

Rumours of a brown ceramic Royal Oak began circulating several months ago, and the latest launch from Audemars Piguet (AP) has proven them true. However, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” 41 mm is more than a new colour, and instead it’s a 200-piece limited edition collaboration with American Rapper Travis Scott and his streetwear label Cactus Jack. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is interesting for being more than just a change of dial colour, which is usually the route taken for limited editions. While it is based on the standard model, the “Cactus Jack” gets a brown ceramic case as well as typography based on the musician’s handwriting on the dial, along with Cactus Jack’s smiley emblem for the moons. Notably, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is just one part of AP’s collaboration with Mr Scott. Their tie-up also includes a line of clothing, including hoodies, t-shirts, and caps, that will be available on Cactus Jack’s own retail site. Initial thoughts Although the “Cactus Jack” is fundamentally identical to the regular production skeleton perpetual in ceramic, it looks strikingly different because of the case. Typically I am not a fan of brown ceramic, but here the material sets the watch apart instantly. This differentiation is a good thing since there are many, many version of the Royal Oak perpetual calendar – the non-skeleton ceramic model is already available in b...

First Look - The Travis Scott x AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” Brown Ceramic

Collaborations and watches inspired by pop and street culture are, without a doubt, an important part of Audemars Piguet‘s recent history. No other brand on the haute horlogerie scene has fostered such creative synergies with different universes. Sport, pop culture, art, fashion and entertainment… It looks at things from a different perspective, like it or […]

Introducing - Capturing the Cosmos with the Holthinrichs Deconstructed Aventurine & Meteorite

Dutch 3D-print watchmaking pioneer Michiel Holthinrichs has moved his watchmaking vision in a new direction with the Deconstructed, which we showed you earlier in the year. This mighty impressive creation had a distinct SciFi exoskeleton vibe, and Holthinrichs Watches now expands the line with two more space-themed watches. Capturing the cosmos with each of the […]

Introducing - The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Seddiqi Special, With Meteorite Dial

Gerald Charles has pulled off something quite extraordinary in the watch world: all its collections revolve exclusively around one case design. And what a case design that is! Created by legendary designer Gérald Genta in 2006, the flamboyant Maestro case design is the backbone of Gerald Charles. Ranging from time-and-date models to skeletonised versions and […]

Fascinating and Landmark Complications at Christie’s Hong Kong

After seeing the fascinating timepieces made by independent watchmakers and the artistic highlights, let us now direct your attention to the notable complications in the Christie’s sales that take place on November 26.  In this compilation, we scrutinise nine noteworthy lots. Some items, like the Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar ref. 5516 and the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, stand out with their six-figure price tags, while others might escape attention but are still deserving of a mention. Examples include the contemporary Omega De Ville Central Tourbillon or a distinctive version of Montblanc’s 1858 Split-Seconds crafted for the Only Watch charity auction. Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) begin at 1 pm on November 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the second session (lots 2501-2639) offering watches from the OAK Collection at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lot 2223: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony ref. 30020 in platinum  The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar pays homage to the revered vintage reference 4261, capturing the essence of one of Vacheron Constantin’s most sought-after timepieces among collectors. Manufactured in 200 examples across two configurations, one with a traditional dial, as seen here, and the other skeletonised, the watch stands out as a coveted item in the current collectors’ market. Notably, only 77 examples, inc...

An Eye on Complicated Watches at Phillips Hong Kong

Our favourite segments in Phillips’ Hong Kong sale on November 24 and 25 are artisanal and form watches, independents of course, and now complications. We round up a selection of nine notable complicated watches, including two special-order Patek Philippe masterpieces, a ref. 3974P with Breguet numerals and a ref. 5004P Michael Ovitz special. The list also includes vintage complications, like the well-preserved Rolex ref. 6062 yellow gold “Stelline”. And also some big value buys in a literal sense: the 48 mm Panerai PAM00350 “Lo Scienzato” skeleton tourbillon and the 44 mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle grand complication, both estimated at a fraction of their retail price. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII takes place on November 24 and 25, 2023. Registration for bidding and the complete catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 839: Panerai Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramica “Lo Scienziato” PAM00350 Panerai paid tribute to astronomer Galileo Galilei in 2010 with the PAM00350 “Lo Scienziato”, one of the most complicated watches made by the brand.  It was a Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramic powered by the in-house cal. P.2005/S – a skeletonised movement executed in a distinctly modern style with the base plate and brides open worked in a grid and finished entirely in matte black. The aesthetics of the P.2005/S movement make the PAM00350 arguably one of the few Panerai models that successfully blended a thoroughly contemporary aesthetic with the historical Pa...

[Hands-On] Zenith and Time & Tide Prove that Sequels Can Work with New Skyline Collaboration

Zenith has teamed up with our friends at Time & Tide for a second time to release a new Defy Skyline dubbed the Night Surfer 2. The theme began with the Defy Classic in the original Night Surfer released in 2021, playing with black and blue tones around the openworked dial and case. The Defy Skyline Skeleton replaces the outgoing Classic, a move we may not be entirely comfortable with just yet, but the Night Surfer colorway works equally well here with the redesigned dial and frantic running seconds hand at 6 o’clock. This is a watch we’ve looked at in-depth in both its closed dial, and open dial forms, and this might be the biggest personality we’ve seen from this watch to date.  Night Surfer 1 at right, Night Surfer 2 at left We see plenty of blue dials in the watch world and I’d count this as one of the more interesting executions. Like the original, the new four-pointed star structure that comprises the center of the dial is treated to a dynamic application of blue that is darker toward the top, and lighter toward the bottom, with the center of the bridge structure bifurcated by a white line creating a sharp contrast to the deep blues underneath. It’s a visually striking dial as a whole that’s framed by the uniformly finished matte titanium case and bracelet. The 41mm case is angular, without a curve in sight. It’s aggressive in a way, but the dark finish it’s received here means it doesn’t interfere with the dial. It’s the same story with the brac...

The sequel is here - Zenith x Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton Night Surfer El Primero

Two years after the original, the sequel drops, with a fresh El Primero-derived movement.The post The sequel is here – Zenith x Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton Night Surfer El Primero appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Speake Marin Openworked Sandblasted in titanium and red gold

For the 2023 season, Speake Marin expands their Openworked collection with four new references (2 case sizes) in titanium and red gold.

The new Certina DS-1 Skeleton shows off the latest Powermatic 80 development

With a wide open view of the Powermatic 80 movement within, we go hands-on with Certina's take on a skeletonised dial.The post The new Certina DS-1 Skeleton shows off the latest Powermatic 80 development appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Celebrating the second anniversary of our Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton Night Surfer Time+Tide Edition

As one of our favourite collaborations to date, we look back at the stories of the Night Surfer.The post Celebrating the second anniversary of our Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton Night Surfer Time+Tide Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.