Skeleton & Openworked Watches · Page 23

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch

Continuing from the unique piece made for the previous edition of Only Watch, TAG Heuer again experiments with its racing model for the upcoming charity auction. The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch is the brand’s first-ever mechanical split-seconds chronograph, and channels strong avant-garde styling. Initial thoughts Finally adding a mechanical split second chronograph to the brand’s capabilities is a significant step for a TAG Heuer, who stand on their history of producing sporting chronographs. In contrast to the Monaco Carbon from 2021, the watch exhibits a significantly bolder aesthetic, aligning more closely with what one would expect from Richard Mille. However, unlike its counterpart, TAG Heuer’s approach to skeletonisation is tastefully restrained, focusing on a minimalist display rather than an overtly flashy appearance. One potential drawback of this release is the auction estimate, which ranges from CHF150,000 to CHF300,000. The inclusion of the new calibre and the utilisation of premium materials can justify the higher price. However, it is worth noting that the price point is consistent with what last year’s model achieved, which was CHF290,000, despite only having an estimate of between CHF50,000 to CHF100,000.  The winning bidder of this watch will also get a VIP experience of the Monaco Grand Prix next year, with access to the TAG Heuer hospitality suite, among other experiences over the weekend.  Avant-garde design Expertly mergi...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch”

Audemars Piguet (AP) is taking part in Only Watch for the fourth time with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 41 mm “Only Watch”. In contrast to the low-key Royal Oak “Jumbo” made for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction, this year’s one-off creation is exceptionally striking in blue and white. The latest Royal Oak “Only Watch” is based on the regular-production Royal Oak skeleton tourbillon but made unique with a white ceramic case and bracelet along with a movement featuring blued titanium bridges and plates. The case and bracelet material is notably uncommon for AP. While the brand has a fair number of Royal Oak models in black ceramic, there are fewer in white ceramic. In fact, there is only one regular production model in white ceramic, the perpetual calendar. In the past, there were also a handful of Royal Oak Offshore models in white ceramic, including a chronograph and Diver. According to AP, one of the notable features of the bracelet is not only the material, but also that fact that is secured with “invisible pins”. This presumably means the pins holding the bracelet together are concealed with ceramic caps. The cal. 2972 inside is open worked in an angular, stylised manner that is very much AP’s house style. The bridges and base plate are blued titanium, while the bevels of the movement retain the natural grey colour of titanium for contrast, giving each of the bridges a pronounced outline. The rotor is 22k gold but ...

The Rado Diastar Original Skeleton, celebrating 60 years of innovation

The new TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton sends the racing classic accelerating toward the future

There’s no questioning the icon status of Heuer among racing chronographs, and one of the main reasons is the Monaco. Boldfaced imitators aside, there really isn’t another watch like it, and for good reason: it was a tough nut to crack. Putting a then-new automatic chronograph movement in a square case (and then making the … ContinuedThe post The new TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton sends the racing classic accelerating toward the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Norqain jazzes up the Wild One with skeleton-dialled duo

Making waves upon its September 2022 release, the Norqain Wild One signalled that Jean-Claude Biver’s advisory role in the brand wasn’t just a marketing move, but rather a shot at the big leagues. With a new composite case made of the brand’s proprietary Norteq material and Kenissi power, it was clear that Norqain is investing … ContinuedThe post Norqain jazzes up the Wild One with skeleton-dialled duo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Marnaut Returns with their Refined Dark Surge 300 Diver, a Proper Dressy Tool Watch and a New Showroom in an Exotic Locale

The last time we caught up Mario Jutronic and his Croatia-designed microbrand, Marnaut, the collection featured a pair of capable divers with a distinct dial inspired by a creature of the Adriatic Sea. Marnaut has been quiet in recent years and after a stint in Asia, Jutronic has returned to his homeland, marking the watch brand’s resurgence. Sometimes a change in scenery is what the soul needs, and you know what they say, there’s nothing better than home cooking. Now, Marnaut is looking to pick up right where they left off with a more refined version of their flagship Dark Surge 300 diver and the launch of their brand new Safe Harbour 100 collection. The newly refined Dark Surge 300 As you’ll find out with all the noteworthy details, all roads lead back to “The Land of a Thousand Islands” in every Marnaut piece. The sea urchin exoskeleton inspired dial, a signature Marnaut design cue and a tribute to Jutronic’s younger days snorkeling in the Adriatic Sea to find these coveted creatures, reprises its format in the updated Dark Surge 300. The dial displays all 47 raised indices in radiating fashion with each one wrapped in a polished surround and filled with C3 SuperLuminova. There’s a certain depth this particular design provides. From above, the space between the top of the surrounds and the surface of its filling is noticeable. A side profile captures the same raised indices in a different manner as they reflect off of the glossy black dial. As a result, le...

The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Azure and the Diver X Skeleton Azure are sustainable chic

New: TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton

TAG Heuer launches the latest addition to their iconic Monaco collection with three references in open worked and colourful dials.

Holthinrichs Announces the Deconstructed, their Most Ambitious Watch Yet

In the world of the micro indie that is quickly becoming one our favorite emerging spaces in the watch industry, Holthinrichs Watches has been a longtime favorite. With their latest creation, the aptly named Deconstructed, they move to another level (or at least another price bracket) but retain much of the aesthetic and craft that originally captivated much of the Worn & Wound editorial team when we discovered their 3-D printed watches several years ago. The new watch is their most ambitious yet by a large margin, incorporating a new in-house movement and pushing the limits of their manufacturing process seemingly as far as they’ll go. If you look back on the watches they were making just a few years ago, the Deconstructed represents a fairly enormous leap in confidence and conviction in what the brand is doing. It’s genuinely exciting.  As the name of the watch implies, the Deconstructed is all about the piecing together of individual component parts. The 3-D printing process that Holthinrichs uses allows for an incredible amount of flexibility in designing each part of the case, allowing them to achieve an aesthetic result that would not be possible with more traditional manufacturing methods. For the Deconstructed, a focus has been placed on skeletonization, with each 3-D printed part reduced to the bare minimum of material (titanium, in this case), for a watch that is airy, lightweight, and a logical extension of the Holthinrichs watches that came before it.  Th...

Sarpaneva Introduces the Lunations Black Ruthenium

Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has revealed the newest iteration of his trademark complication, the Lunations Black Ruthenium. Equipped with his proprietary moon phase movement, the Lunations moon phase is so accurate it will accumulate a mere one-day discrepancy after 14,000 years. Limited to just ten pieces, this is a variant of a model first introduced a dozen years ago, but remains the brand’s most complex wristwatch. Initial thoughts The Lunations has all of the Sarpaneva design elements, including the moon “face”, open-worked dial (which in this case is actually the movement), laser engraved decoration as well as hand finishing, so it resembles many of the brand’s other watches. But the Lunations is actually one of the most complex watches devised by Sarpaneva. The Lunations is unusual in combining both the brand’s recognisable design with an original movement, one developed with the help of Andreas Strehler, whereas most of Sarpaneva’s other watches are powered by simpler, outsourced movements.  Constructed in a novel manner with a two-disc moon phase display that’s so large it’s almost the diameter of the movement, the calibre inside is both interesting and complex. However, a moon phase complication is usually simple – and inexpensive – in most other watches. Consequently, the Lunations feels pricey with its €39,500 price tag, particularly so considering that Sarpaneva’s other moon phase models powered by outsourced movements cost hal...

TAG Heuer Releases a Trio of New Monacos with Skeleton Dials Ahead of a Big Race Weekend

The Monaco Grand Prix is this weekend (be sure to check out Time on Track next week for a full recap) and to celebrate what many consider the marquee race on the F1 circuit, TAG Heuer is releasing a trio of new Monacos with skeleton dials. What? You thought they’d release new Monzas? While a run of new Monacos released to coincide with the race that the watch is named after is perhaps predictable on the part of TAG Heuer, fans of the funky square cased chronograph still have reason to be excited. These Monacos make a very different impression than the more traditional, vintage inspired references that are TAG’s bread and butter, and might even pull new enthusiasts into the world of a watch that has long had an intense cult following.  Somewhat surprisingly, these new Monacos represent the first time this watch has been released with a skeleton dial. According to TAG, the goal here was for a avant garde interpretation of the Monaco, which is fitting as the original watch, when it was released in 1969, was also a representation of the avant garde of its day. A square cased chronograph was well outside the norm, particularly in the racing world, and that first Monaco would have felt like an unusual choice to potential owners in the late 60s and early 70s. Obviously, it caught on, and has developed a following made up of racing enthusiasts, chronograph collectors, and fans of unique and iconic designs. Most notably, of course, the watch was worn by Steve McQueen in the ra...

The TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton gives the iconic model a techno remix

TAG Heuer releases the first Monaco with a skeletonised dial Three colourways available – Original Blue, Racing Red and Turquoise Cases are made from grade 2 titanium Would Steve McQueen be turning in his grave at the sight of the new TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton? It’s worth asking the question, because there’s no doubt that … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton gives the iconic model a techno remix appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: Three New TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton Dials

TAG Heuer strips back a classic in time for the Monaco Grand Prix this weekend.

The TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton Dials Look to the Future

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Skeleton Dial

As has become tradition, TAG Heuer is launching a new Monaco chronograph to mark the annual Formula 1 race in the principality of the same name. While past editions for the Monaco Grand Prix leaned towards vintage in terms of style, the Monaco Skeleton Dial is almost entirely modern. Though the watch retains the trademark Monaco case and even many elements of the dial, it has no practically no dial, most of which has been removed to reveal the movement below. Initial thoughts Just like the recent Monza Flyback and Carrera “Glassbox”, the Monaco Skeleton Dial continues TAG Heuer’s pivot towards contemporary designs that its chief executive Frederic Arnault has indicated is the way forward. This is a good thing, because it allows the brand to move away from being reliant on the vintage-esque sports watches that are all too common in this price segment. The new Monaco itself manages to look very much like a Monaco while still being very different. Despite the seemingly opposite characteristics, everything works well together, although the look is certainly more appealing in the all-black iteration than its siblings. The only caveat is the price, which at about US$11,000 makes this a third more expensive than a Monaco with the same movement and case but a conventional dial. That feels like a bit too much for the open-worked dial, which admittedly required substantial reworking of the movement. Loosely vintage inspired The Monaco Skeleton Dial gets its name from, well, a...

Introducing: The Louis Vuitton Voyager Skeleton Limited Edition

The Voyager case goes bones and all with a brand new automatic time-only skeleton movement.

Hands-On: Look Inside Parmigiani's Strength In Skeletonization With The Tonda PF

More than just technical skill, Parmigiani's beautiful skeletonization is based on touch, feel, and experience.

One To Watch: MEC Has Emerged On The Scene With Its Debut: A Skeletonized Jumping-Hour Watch

With US-inspired stylings and big dreams for the future of American watchmaking, MEC has started out strong.

[VIDEO] Hands-On: Zenith Opens Up the Defy Skyline with Skyline Skeleton

The Zenith Defy collection of watches spans an almost shocking array of references, including watches like the Revival darlings, right on up to crazy Defy Extremes and Defy 21s. Connecting all of these dots is the new(ish) Defy Skyline collection, which was introduced early last year, and which welcomed new iterations this year, including a variant meant to replace the excellent Defy Classic with an open dial. That watch is the Defy Skyline Skeleton, and it’s not simply an openworked version of the regular Skyline. This is a distinct watch in a few important ways, bringing some of the big personality found in the Extreme and 21 references, into a slightly more approachable framework.  The Skyline Skeleton takes its Defy roots seriously. From its wrist watch inception back in the ‘60s, the Defy has been a vehicle through which Zenith has strived to craft the future of watchmaking. This manifested in avant guard shapes, high-tech movements, and intricate bracelet integrations from the get go. Today, Zenith honors this heritage with their Revival series, but for all intents and purposes, the Defy range as it exists today, is still pushing the envelope in looking to the future. $11000 [VIDEO] Hands-On: Zenith Opens Up the Defy Skyline with Skyline Skeleton Case Stainless Steel Movement El Primero 3620 SK high-frequency Dial Black or Blue Skeleton Lume Super Luminova Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless Steel; Rubber Water Resistance 10ATM Dimensions 41x46mm Thickness 11.6mm Lug ...

Hands On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

One of my favorite releases from Watches & Wonders (W&W) was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph. Complicated Reversos are almost always interesting given the space constraints and commercial implications in developing rectangular movements, and the Tribute Chronograph is no exception.  The new chronograph is a remake of sorts that honours one of the brand’s signature watches from the 1990s. While the original Reverso Chronographe Retrograde was a 500-piece limited edition in pink gold from 1996, the Tribute Chronograph is a regular production watch available in both pink gold or steel. Both versions feature a sun-ray brushed primary dial and partially open-worked chronograph dial on the reverse. Initial thoughts As a fan of the original Reverso chronograph, I am excited to see this concept brought back to life. The key elements that made the original unique, namely the distinct styles of the two faces and the compact, rectangular chronograph movement, have been retained and updated. Both the steel and pink gold references are attractive, but the pink gold version is arguably the most appealing with its gold-on-black livery that brings to mind vintage “gilt” dials.  That said, there are a few trade-offs that give me pause. The large case of the Tribute Chronograph is potentially problematic for some wrists, and the simplified dial feels generic (whereas the original had a guilloche dial). I am also conflicted about the movement. On one hand, it’s gre...

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard “Damas”

Franck Muller’s latest venture into unorthodox case materials is a pair of watches with cases and dials in Damascus steel. Available only at the brand’s stores in Asia, the Vanguard “Damas” and “Damas Racing” retain the tonneau-shaped case of the brand’s bestseller but enhanced with the texture and depth of Damascus steel. Initial thoughts  The use of Damascus steel gives the Vanguard a new and appealing look. Because the model has been iterated numerous times, the Vanguard line is made up of an almost endless range of variants, but mostly in conventional metal alloys or carbon composite. The Damas models easily stand apart, making them instantly recognisable.   The case metal is particularly suited to the skeletonised Damas Racing – the open-worked dial contrasts against the graining of the Damascus steel, making it a perfect complement to the case material. And its open-worked numerals in Damascus steel are an especially pleasing detail. The Vanguard “Damas Racing” Both Damas models, however, are pricey relative to other Franck Muller offerings. The Vanguard “Damas” costs just over US$13,000 (and the open-worked model is almost double), making it twice as expensive as a comparable time-only Vanguard in a conventional steel case. That’s true even compared to the competition. The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet, which features a similar case material, costs about the same as the open-worked Vanguard “Damas Racing”, but it’s a chronograph in...

Introducing the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton

A Week In Watches Ep. 46: All The Collaborations, Plus One Anniversary

Welcome to A Week In Watches, episode 45! This week, we were inundated with collaboration watches, and they are as diverse as they are interesting. From a $110 Timex, to a $26,000 Czapek, there’s a little something for everyone here. The most humble release of the week comes from Timex and our friends at Huckberry, who brought back a classic form the ’90s, the Ironman Flix watch. It’s a jolt of energy next to today’s modern ultra smart devices, and it’s a perfect workout companion even without all the bells & whistles of something like an Apple Watch. Another big theme this week (and recent years, come to think of it) is big colors and dial textures. We’ve got blue wave dials, lava red dials, and rose engine turned dials all making their way into a trio of releases from Czapek, Straum, and Atelier Wen, and their respective collab partners. Finally, we say congratulations to our friends at Norqain for hitting their 5 year anniversary, who celebrated with a selection of 5 new watches. We take a closer look at their version of an openworked dial, and wish them continued success in their journey. Here’s hoping we get more lume dials sometime soon. Next weekend, we’ll be coming at you from the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair, and if you’re in the Bay Area, we hope to see you there. For more details on this year’s event, head over to windupwatchfair.com and get a look at the schedule for each of the days, as well as the extensive list of brands you can look f...

Cartier Introduces the Tank Normale Skeleton

Having just introduced a revived version of the classic Tank Normale, Cartier also debuted a modern take on the design, the Tank Normale Skeleton. It’s equipped with a in-house skeletonised movement done in Cartier’s typical geometric style, but with a discreet twist in the form of a 24-hour time display. Initial thoughts  At a glance the Tank Normale Skeleton might seem like yet another skeletonised Tank, of which there have been several over the years. But look closer and it emerges as something more interesting. The dial tells the time on a 24-hour scale, a modest complication in mechanical terms but one that references Cartier’s historical day-and-night timepieces. And the complication is echoed in the sun-and-moon motif of the bridges rendered in a complementary Art Deco style. In short, it’s an elegant take on the day-and-night display done in quintessential Cartier style. Created especially for this model, the calibre inside is notably attractive. It’s fairly symmetrical in layout – the balance is at 12 o’clock while the barrel sits at six – and finished to match the style of the bridges. But it does still have an Etachron regulator, which is found in all Cartier skeleton movements but still out of place considering the price. And the price is steep. At US$71,000 in yellow gold and slightly more in platinum, it is pricey for a relatively straightforward skeleton watch. In comparison, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor also launched this year is ...