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I have a confession: I previously dismissed Orion for the wrong reasons. As an avid collector of microbrands, somewhere along the way I subconsciously created an arbitrary value scale based solely on movements. Collecting primarily in the sub $500 range, most watches that have passed through my watchbox have been powered by Seiko NH movements- the long reigning king of budget friendly 3rd party workhouse movements. On the occasions that I crossed that $500 threshold, I’ve been conditioned to expect a Miyota 9000 series, slightly more expensive, and considered an upgrade largely thanks to an extra two beats per second and the resulting sweeping second hand. Truth be told, I could care less about beat rates, but owning something deemed more premium is hard to pass up. It’s this human desire for the seemingly better thing that led me to shy away from Miyota powered watches over $700. Afterall, having $700 to drop on a microbrand opens up the option to own a watch powered by a Sellita SW200, a Swiss movement synonymous with luxury. Of course, this is a deeply flawed way to collect watches and judge value. And, (spoiler alert) a guaranteed way to miss out on value-packed brands that don’t blow their entire budget on a movement. After spending time with Orion’s Miyota 9039 powered Sylph collection, which hovers just over $700 like much of their catalog, I’ve gained a new appreciation for brands that prioritize finishing and design over being the best bargain by spec sh...

The post Enthusiast Spotlight: Styling the Victorinox I.N.O.X. Automatic with Noah Williams appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Smaller, more options, and... less money?

The designer of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore, Emmanuel Gueit, shares his insight into some watches from 2024.The post Through a designer’s eyes – Emmanuel Gueit critiques 2024 watch releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Lists - don’t you love ‘em? Well, I do. Unlike Lex, our resident Grinch, I love a good list. That should come as no surprise, though, as I am Fratello’s in-house list fanatic. It was interesting to read that Lex likes to look forward to what’s to come rather than looking back at what has […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Jorg’s Picks From Rexhep Rexhepi, Zenith, Tudor, And More to read the full article.

The Omega x Swatch Speedmaster MoonWatch was one of the biggest product launches of the decade. Raman Kalra eventually managed to get his hands on one and shares his thoughts here.

Where aviation heritage meets contemporary design, the Zenith x Porter PILOT Big Date Flyback Chronograph delivers bold style and functionality! What We Love The khaki green colour for the case and dial Orange accents stand out beautifully The case isn’t big, even for slimmer wrists What We Don’t The black crown and chronograph pushers seem out of place with the rest of the watch’s colour scheme. Different font are used throughout the dial Velcro strap won’t suit everyone, especially with slim wrists. Overall Score: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Zenith X Porter Pilot Big Date Flyback Porter stands out as a shining example of thoughtful design and craftsmanship in a world where collaborations feel like the norm. This collaboration was a bit unexpected; however, it is a great way to end 2024 with one of the best-looking timepieces released as a dual project. The latest collaboration between Zenith & Porter by Yoshida & Company results in a beautiful khaki green PILOT Big Date Flyback Chronograph This watch, as expected, revolves around the theme of travel. Porter is a Japanese bag brand that has a variety of styles for travel bags. For this collaboration, Porter by Yoshida & Company has supplied the velcro straps for the timepeices. They are also throwing in a specially developed bag that has been made with Zenith’s input, in Porter’s signature khaki-green colour. Zenith, on the other hand, has a long ...

We take a look at two variants of one of Ulysse Nardin's most visually engaging watches.The post Blue and rose gold or black DLC titanium: which Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon do you prefer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Many of the year’s most notable watches were expensive, especially complications and independent watchmaking, but there were still a few standouts at the affordable end of the price spectrum. Some relied on familiar formulas, like the Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, while others like the Louis Erard Vianney Halter collaboration were unexpected. Here’s our team’s take on the year’s best watches under US$10,000. Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph - David Ichim A great debut from the recently-established micro brand is the Type 10 Chronograph. Albishorn’s tagline is “imaginary vintage” - drawing inspiration from actual vintage watches, but reimagined with an entirely novel composition, resulting in watches that are highly suggestive of an era without actually being remakes. The Type 10 Chronograph exemplifies this philosophy. The hands, typeface, bezel, and slim lugs pay homage to mid-century aviator chronographs from the likes of Airain, Breguet, and Heuer. The unusual arrangement of the chronograph display however makes it entirely unique.  Inside is a heavily reworked 7750-derived movement, that is positioned unconventionally, leading to the unusual crown and pusher arrangement along with the unorthodox chronograph layout. The manually-wound movement is also C.O.S.C certified and incorporates a chronograph-function indicator. In fact, the calibre is arguably more than just heavily reworked, amongst other things, it has shorter pinions than a 77...

We dig into some of the best watches we have spotted on celebrity wrists over the last 25 seasons of Hot Ones.The post Fired up: The best watches spotted on Hot Ones (Seasons 1 – 25) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sometimes the little chores in life feel like herculean tasks, don’t they? I’m not just talking about lubricating that squeaky hinge on the front door; I’m also referring to taking your beloved watch to a watchmaker for some love and attention. I know what I’m talking about. Not only does the hinge of my front […] Visit Reunited With My Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Back From A Long-Overdue Watch “Onsen” Session to read the full article.

Perhaps echoing the paucity of highlights in indie watchmaking, the best complications of 2024 were not numerous, but those that stood out were outstanding. Vacheron Constantin, for instance, unveiled the most complicated watch ever, while Bovet solved the longstanding problem of summer time across continents in an enormous (and enormously expensive) wristwatch. Here’s the team’s take on the best complications of the year. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst – Brandon Moore The iconic Datograph turned 25 this year, and collectors were treated to three different limited edition variants to mark the occasion. We were first introduced to the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” and the Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary at Watches & Wonders, but Lange was arguably saving the best for last: the first Datograph to receive the brand’s artisanal Handwerkskunst treatment. Featuring a hand-engraved tremblage dial and limited to just 25 pieces, the Datograph Handwerkskunst is a fitting way to celebrate a quarter-century of being best-in-class. While not particularly creative, this very-limited edition captures both the magic of Lange and its Datograph perfectly. Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 – SJX The introduction to our story on the watch sums it up best: “The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 is an ingenious solution to an age-old problem: accounting for daylight saving time (also known as summer time) in a multi-timezone wristwatch… the solution is e...

Independent watchmaking continued its hot streak in 2024, with interest and demand for this niche segment holding up better amidst an industry-wide slowdown. But surprisingly – or unsurprisingly depending on how you look at it – there were relatively few outstanding new creations from the indies. A handful, however, did stand out. We look at the team’s highlights of the year, which range from Konstantin Chaykin’s thinnest-watch-ever to the debut by Swiss-based Japanese watchmaker Takahiro Aigaki. Aigaki Direct-Impulse Tourbillon – Brandon Moore I still remember the moment I stumbled across Takahiko Aigaki’s Instagram profile earlier this year, because the close-up image of the tourbillon cage made me do a double take. Sure, it was well finished, but in 2024 good finishing no longer provides the competitive advantage it once did; the top end of the market is just too competitive. No, what struck me was the unusual double direct-impulse escapement. When the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon was finally revealed, it was worth the wait. While arguably a bit plain on the outside, the movement exhibits a degree of grace and technicality that is still quite rare. The watch is truly a sleeper, in the sense that the case and dial reveal little of the horological magic within. Daniel Roth Tourbillon – Brandon Moore It’s counterintuitive to be writing about the launch of the Daniel Roth brand in 2024, considering the man himself was one of the seminal independent watchmakers ...

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The definitive telling of the last 29 years at Audemars Piguet, from the man himself.

The post A Gift Guide For Every Budget appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The most classic of Submariners, and why now's a good time to pay attention to this beloved reference.

Well, it’s finally arrived, the end of 2024. Typically, around this time we put together an annual wrap, but the brands had other plans. You see, they kept releasing watches. So, for episode 96 of A Week in Watches, we’re still covering new releases, with a particular focus on that last-minute Speedmaster drop, and, boy, do we have some thoughts on that one. This episode was brought to by the Windup Watch Shop. When the winter break is behind you, and you’ve returned the awkward sweaters and novelty socks, head on over to the shop and get yourself something you really want. Perhaps some straps, a utility knife, or even a watch. And, if you happen to be near NYC, you can set up a time to come to the new showroom and pick something out in person by following this link. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 96: It’s a Bird, It’s a Plane, It’s a Speedmaster! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

One of the world's top purveyors of luxury goods adds a 36mm mechanical sports watch to its catalog, adding further illustration of just how much business is booming at Hermès.

What if you want to wear a chronograph that doesn’t make you look like a 1940s fighter pilot, an astronaut, or a 1960s rally driver?The post The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Quartz Chronograph is a no-fuss, modern daily appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We take a look at some common theories behind the design of Rolex's signature hour hand.The post What’s the story behind Rolex’s iconic “Mercedes” hands? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Can a 5.5 inch wrist pull off the Moonwatch?The post Big Watches, Small Wrists Part IV: Will I ever be able to pull off the Moonwatch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hamilton Murph 38 or Seiko Alpinist SPB121? Which of the two field watches walks away the winner?The post VERSUS: The Hamilton Murph 38 comes up against the Seiko Alpinist SPB121 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Time+Tide Editorial Team has come together to nominate what they believe to be the best one watch collection.The post The Time+Tide team picks their one watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

They say the face of a watch can be regarded as a canvas. A canvas to display time first and foremost, but in some watches, it is also a backdrop for a discerning and mesmerising complication like a tourbillon or a perpetual calendar indication. But what if you would take the dial as a canvas […]