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Why lug-to-lug matters more than diameter (and how to actually pick a watch that fits)

Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Bausele is the official watch provider of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary with two historically inspired designs Time+Tide
Bausele Nov 2, 2020

Bausele is the official watch provider of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary with two historically inspired designs

There aren’t many watch brands that can proudly claim to be Australian, but Bausele is one of the select few. Founded by Christophe Hoppe in 2011, Bausele have just announced their partnership with the RAAF to produce two watches that will celebrate the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary in 2021. It is exciting news that … ContinuedThe post Bausele is the official watch provider of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary with two historically inspired designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You voted, and this was the most popular $5000 watch collection made up of 2020 releases only Time+Tide
Oct 29, 2020

You voted, and this was the most popular $5000 watch collection made up of 2020 releases only

Editor’s note: I don’t want to go all salty Kanye West on Taylor Swift at an awards ceremony here, but imma just pop up here to say that Thor has declared himself the winner in the Fantasy Watch Collection under $5000 edition, EVEN THOUGH I polled more likes on Instagram, and was within one, or … ContinuedThe post You voted, and this was the most popular $5000 watch collection made up of 2020 releases only appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo blue dial in satin polished steel the best steel sports watch of 2020? Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo blue dial Oct 27, 2020

HANDS-ON: Is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo blue dial in satin polished steel the best steel sports watch of 2020?

Editor’s note: We’ve had quite the flurry of Bulgari lately, mostly in celebration of the brand’s 2020 collection. And, increasingly, the pinion of the collection is emerging as this model right here. Make no mistake, it doesn’t rightly deserve to be. It’s a simple dial variation away from the black lacquer dial variation that the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo blue dial in satin polished steel the best steel sports watch of 2020? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the Meca-10 Clock SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Oct 23, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Meca-10 Clock

Time-only but visually and mechanically interesting, the Hublot Meca-10 wristwatch has a skeleton movement inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy. Now it’s been blown up – by a multiple of four – to create the Meca-10 Clock. Created in collaboration with Swiss clockmaker L’Epée, best known for the clocks it has made for MB&F; and Chanel, the Meca-10 Clock retains all of the key features of its wristwatch counterpart, namely the skeletonised construction and lengthy, 10-day running time. The clock and the watch that inspired it Initial thoughts Compared to the prolific, sci-fi clocks of MB&F;, the Meca-10 is more traditional. But it sets itself apart technically with its purpose-built, 10-day movement. In contrast, clocks by other brands express themselves in terms of case architecture, and mostly rely on the same the L’Epée 8-day movement. The Meca-10 has a straightforward, square case that resembles the typical Hublot Big Bang. The highlight is the movement, which originated in Hublot’s own movement development department led by Matthias Buttet, the brand’s resident technical guru, and subsequently built by L’Epee. The result is a clock that is legible and mechanically interesting, just like the Meca-10 wristwatch, giving the clock a similar sort of appeal. But the Meca-10 clock is surprisingly expensive, starting at US$47,400 for the steel version. That can be justified to a degree by the unique movement, but it’s still twice the pric...

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Liberty SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Oct 22, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Liberty

Just days after unveiling the Lupin the Third edition inspired by a Japanese anime series, Zenith has rolled out a limited edition for countries on the other side of the world. The Chronomaster Revival Liberty is similarly based on the El Primero A384, but dressed in red, white, and blue. Initial thoughts Zenith has released several limited edition A384s this year, which can feel a bit too frequent. But to the brand’s credit the editions have all been appealing, and the El Primero in general remains a well-priced chronograph. The Chronomaster Revival Liberty is a good looking watch that retains the 1970s spirit of the A384 while giving it a totally new colour. The tricolour combination brings to mind the American flag, but it is an attractive combination that’s helped by details like the whimsical candy-cane central seconds hand. Gradient blue The key element that sets this A384 edition apart from the others is the dial, which is finished in a matte, graduated blue that darkens towards the edges. The smoked or fumé finish is popular today, but not especially common at Zenith. It’s matched with the red and white striped seconds hand, as well as a red-on-white date disc. The rest of the watch is stock A384, which means it remains true to the 1969 original in size and finish. It’s 37 mm in diameter and finished with radial brushing on its top face, just like the original. And inside is the El Primero 400 movement. Key facts and price Zenith Chronomaster Revival Li...

If you missed out on the Sydney-based WatchFest 2020, prepare for SOMO (the Sadness Of Missing Out) Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2020

If you missed out on the Sydney-based WatchFest 2020, prepare for SOMO (the Sadness Of Missing Out)

Against all odds. That was spirit of the conversation I had with Paxton Wong a couple of weeks ago, when we were discussing what he had planned for WatchFest 2020. The COVID-19 pandemic wasn’t a reason to cancel the event this year, it was the reason it had to go ahead. Not just because Paxton … ContinuedThe post If you missed out on the Sydney-based WatchFest 2020, prepare for SOMO (the Sadness Of Missing Out) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dubai Watch Week 2020 Goes Online SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey  Aline Sylla-Walbaum Christie’s Luxury Oct 20, 2020

Dubai Watch Week 2020 Goes Online

Having taken place in Dubai and London since 2015, Dubai Watch Week (DWW) is now going online. Organised by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the Middle East, DWW was traditionally a watch fair catered to consumers and collectors that was a platform for education as well as new product launches. Despite the pandemic, DWW is going ahead as much as is reasonably feasible. “Our objective of uniting the watch community and providing an educational platform is at the forefront of what we hope to achieve via this experience,” explains Hind Seddiqi, Director General of Dubai Watch Week. A scene from an earlier DWW that took place in the Dubai International Financial Centre This year the event takes the form of four panel discussions that will be broadcast live online. The panels will cover familiar topics like the grey market for luxury watches, but also the more intriguing: the October 26 session is about “conspiracy and authenticity and whether the heart of the luxury industry beats in an organic market or is wound-up and coerced into ticking by specific entities”. Representing the breadth of the watch industry, the panellists ranging from auctioneers to entrepreneurs to watchmakers. Amongst the participants are Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie., Stephen Forsey of Greubel Forsey, Aline Sylla-Walbaum, Christie’s Luxury department head, as well as Chief Strategy and Business Development Officer of Seddiqi Holding Christophe Nicaise. And it also ...

Redefining luxury leisure with the new lightweight Bulgari Aluminium collection Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium collection Editor’s note Oct 18, 2020

Redefining luxury leisure with the new lightweight Bulgari Aluminium collection

Editor’s note: There’s no doubt that the Bulgari watch department is having a very big year. So far they have gotten hearts racing with the launch of their record-breaking Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic, the new Octo Finissimo in satin-polished steel, and then their remarkable High-End Watch novelties. And if that wasn’t enough, there … ContinuedThe post Redefining luxury leisure with the new lightweight Bulgari Aluminium collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Jean-Claude Biver tells the full Hublot story and WatchFest fires! Time+Tide
Hublot story Oct 15, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Jean-Claude Biver tells the full Hublot story and WatchFest fires!

I don’t know if it’s advancing age, the sentimentality of the occasion (Hublot’s 40th Anniversary), or just our European Editor Mike’s interviewing technique, but the video we are to publish tomorrow night - starring Jean-Claude Biver and CEO Ricardo Guadalupe telling the Hublot story, from the day they took over the brand 24 years ago … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Jean-Claude Biver tells the full Hublot story and WatchFest fires! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono SJX Watches
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Oct 12, 2020

Up Close: Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono

Luxury-sports watches are the flavour of the day, and brands in every price segment offer something in the category. Given the fad, Chopard’s launch of the Alpine Eagle last year wasn’t much of a surprise, although the fact that the Alpine Eagle was a reboot of the 1980s St Moritz was unexpected, since the St Moritz was never really a hit. But the St Moritz was smartly reworked, creating a watch that is good looking and in typical Chopard style, very well made and also well priced. The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono has all of the qualities of last year’s base model, but everything comes together better on the chronograph. And despite being more complicated and thus more expensive, the chronograph is arguably better value, and perhaps even the best in class. Initial thoughts When the Alpine Eagle was unveiled almost exactly a year ago, making its debut as a 41 mm three-hander with date, I was impressed by the fit and finish, and also the price; the value proposition was good. But the three-hand Alpine Eagle isn’t particularly compelling in the hand. To be fair, the base-model Alpine Eagle manages to avoid the usual pitfall for a luxury-sports watch – looking derivative and too similar to the most famous watches in the category – but it is a little plain. The new Alpine Eagle XL Chrono, on the other hand, is compelling in style, size, and substance. Visually the chronograph works better than the three-hand model, because the sub-dials are well proportioned and i...

VIDEO: A sketching class with one of the world’s greatest living watch designers, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani of Bulgari Time+Tide
Bulgari Most Oct 11, 2020

VIDEO: A sketching class with one of the world’s greatest living watch designers, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani of Bulgari

Most of us probably haven’t tried to draw anything since high school, and those high school drawings are unlikely to be works of art. Even to the encouraging eyes of our parents. But don’t worry, because it’s never too late to learn a new skill, especially when you’ve got the best teachers, and you’re learning … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A sketching class with one of the world’s greatest living watch designers, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani of Bulgari appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2020 FANTASY WATCH COLLECTION PART 1 - What watches would we buy with a budget of $5000 USD? Time+Tide
Oct 9, 2020

2020 FANTASY WATCH COLLECTION PART 1 - What watches would we buy with a budget of $5000 USD?

I can’t remember the last time we conducted a Fantasy Watch Collection poll at Time+Tide. But I’ve noticed something in 2020 amongst the team. With the majority of us locked down in Melbourne, Zoom meetings frequently degenerate into wistful commentaries on what we’re going to buy next. What’s where on the wish list. Fantasies aplenty. … ContinuedThe post 2020 FANTASY WATCH COLLECTION PART 1 – What watches would we buy with a budget of $5000 USD? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron SSH073J Limited Edition offers dressy darkness in ceramic and titanium Time+Tide
Seiko Astron SSH073J Limited Edition Oct 7, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron SSH073J Limited Edition offers dressy darkness in ceramic and titanium

Seiko’s 2020 arsenal of new watches has yet another devastatingly attractive addition in the Seiko Astron SSH073J. In parallel with the mechanical in-house divers and sports watches we can’t seem to get enough of, we find the ultra-precise Astron series, here shown in the dressy darkness of titanium and ceramic. I apologise in advance for … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron SSH073J Limited Edition offers dressy darkness in ceramic and titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Oysterflex Bible - every Rolex Oysterflex reference, named and rated Time+Tide
Rolex Oysterflex reference named Oct 3, 2020

The Oysterflex Bible - every Rolex Oysterflex reference, named and rated

We all know only too well how a Rolex Oyster or Jubilee bracelet embraces the wrist unlike any other assembly of steel parts available. It’s a watch bracelet with the feel of silk. Lesser common an experience is the sampling of an Oysterflex bracelet, Rolex’s version of a rubber strap. At the time it was … ContinuedThe post The Oysterflex Bible – every Rolex Oysterflex reference, named and rated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WatchFest Australia 2020 is going ahead against all odds, because community matters more than ever Time+Tide
Oct 1, 2020

WatchFest Australia 2020 is going ahead against all odds, because community matters more than ever

Last year, a national get-together for watch lovers was launched by a well known Sydney-based collector, Paxton Wong. He called it ‘WatchFest’. And, despite every possible obstacle, the show will go on again in COVID-stricken 2020. Because, well, community. That’s what it’s all about, isn’t it? There’s no doubt that both the international and Australian … ContinuedThe post WatchFest Australia 2020 is going ahead against all odds, because community matters more than ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Announces Special Services for All Pasha Owners SJX Watches
Cartier Announces Special Services Sep 30, 2020

Cartier Announces Special Services for All Pasha Owners

Having just unveiled the new-and-improved Pasha de Cartier in April, the Parisian jeweller has just announced an unusually generous suite of complimentary services for the owners of any Pasha watch – “regardless of the model and year of purchase” – anywhere in the world. An example of a Pasha from 1985, which would also be eligible for this offer Conceived to be part of the promotional activities for the new line, this impressive initiative covers two key amenities: servicing and personalisation. Any Pasha wristwatch can be taken to a Cartier boutique for a diagnosis and complimentary servicing. After servicing, the watch will also benefit from the standard post-servicing guarantee. Engraved initials on the recently-launched Pasha de Cartier At the same time, a Pasha wristwatch can be personalised with an engraving of the owner’s initials, either on the case back or on the side of the case under the chain that links the crown cap to the case. Cartier has not revealed how long these services will remain complimentary, but presumably not forever, so it would be prudent to make use of the offer sooner rather than later. For more, visit Cartier.com.  

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW264 Sep 28, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial

I’m a vintage diver enthusiast, embracing smaller diameters, but still with a predilection for tough tools, even - don’t tell anyone - with a bespoke shirt and a suit. Grand Seiko have single-handedly restored my faith in dress watches in 2020, with their Elegance series having several new references in what is a superb case. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A Seiko you can buy for a good cause, a Longines Tuxedo, and our GPHG winners wish list Time+Tide
Longines Tuxedo Sep 24, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A Seiko you can buy for a good cause, a Longines Tuxedo, and our GPHG winners wish list

It’s a dark, rainy afternoon in Melbourne with temperatures plunged back below 10 degrees. But it’s always sunny when you can write the Wind Down from the office with colleagues around - 1.5m away, of course, but at least around! Today is my first day back in the office for what I would guess to be … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A Seiko you can buy for a good cause, a Longines Tuxedo, and our GPHG winners wish list appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: 5 reasons why Patek Philippe is the most coveted watch brand in the world Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Sep 23, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: 5 reasons why Patek Philippe is the most coveted watch brand in the world

There are lots of in-depth, scholarly dissertations of why Patek Philippe is, and always will be, immensely coveted by collectors. But, in the spirit of Mark Twain, who said along the lines of, “I apologise for the long letter, I didn’t have time to write you a short one,” we found an impressively short post on … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: 5 reasons why Patek Philippe is the most coveted watch brand in the world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux ? Sep 21, 2020

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton

A restrained yet modern take on Chopard’s ultra-thin gentleman’s watch, the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton is the result of a collaboration between the watchmaker and the Neapolitan suit maker. Perhaps because casual or sports attire is the de facto dress everywhere, the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton is thin and refined, but also clad in a striking red and black. Initial thoughts Watchmaker-tailor collaborations generally haven’t worked well. Anyone remember the Zegna watches made by Girard-Perregaux? The Chopard-Kiton tie-up, however, succeeds by subtly incorporating Kiton elements into the L.U.C XP – short for extra plat, or “extra flat”. It’s essentially an all-black watch with accents of red and red gold, a high-contrast combination that works well when done tastefully, as this is. And the fact that it’s an L.U.C also helps, because L.U.C movements are uniformly excellent in their respective price segments. The L.U.C XP is an extremely high quality watch for about US$10,000, which is strong value. Restrained style Headquartered in Naples and family owned like Chopard, Kiton is a vertically-integrated maker of high-end menswear, including suits made of ultra-fine wool that cost more than this watch. An elegant watch with accents of colour, the new L.U.C XP is dressed in the colours of the Kiton logo – red and black – with the tailor’s button emblem discreetly placed above six o’clock. It features a subtle houndstooth pattern printed on the dial, which is ma...

When Accuracy Mattered - Part III: The Triumph of Brands Over Watchmaking SJX Watches
Longines split-seconds chronograph pocket watch Sep 20, 2020

When Accuracy Mattered - Part III: The Triumph of Brands Over Watchmaking

The demise of chronometry competitions last year – when the final edition of Concours International de Chronométrie took place – finally killed the dangerous heresy that a watch is a practical instrument that should be trusted to show the correct time. With the elimination of the last scientific and independent assessment of a watch’s worth, the cult of haute horlogerie comes into its own, reinforcing its definition of a watch as an emotional product born of passion, tradition and prestige. Trials to see who can produce the most precise, accurate and reliable watch originated in Geneva in 1879, when the head of its observatory, Professor Emile Plantamour, devised a testing routine that rated watches in the various positions and temperatures encountered in everyday wear. Observatories soon became the influencers of the pocket-watch age, determining the legitimacy and worth of luxury timepieces. American magnates like James Ward Packard, Henry Graves Jr and Pierpont Morgan secured the most highly rated pieces. A Longines split-seconds chronograph pocket watch that was tested at the Neuchatel Observatory in 1968; this particular example once belong to Jean Pitallier, the former president of the French Cycling Federation (FFC) Despite the advent of wristwatches, the Neuchatel Observatory kept the competitions alive until 1968 when Japanese entrants swept the board. In 1972, deputation of Swiss watch brand executive petitioned the Neuchâtel government minister Ren...

Petermann Bédat Seconde Morte: Dead Seconds, Independently (Video) Quill & Pad
Petermann Bédat Sep 17, 2020

Petermann Bédat Seconde Morte: Dead Seconds, Independently (Video)

Petermann Bédat is a young company comprising a youthful duo of independent watchmakers by the names of Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat. Their first watch features a deadbeat style of seconds created with the help of grand master Dominique Renaud. Our friends at The Watches TV hosted Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat in their Geneva studio to find out more. Watch their talk here!

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook now comes with three interchangeable straps and we hope this is the future Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook now comes Sep 17, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook now comes with three interchangeable straps and we hope this is the future

Every now and then you’ll come across something that makes you think, “Why doesn’t everyone do this?” This was what came to mind when I was considering the Rado Captain Cook with interchangeable straps, which offers a pretty practical solution to the limited versatility of a watch that only comes with one bracelet or strap. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook now comes with three interchangeable straps and we hope this is the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.