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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain Worn & Wound
Rolex Richemont or Oct 12, 2023

A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain

When writing about brands, we often use the words “micro” or “independent” to describe any brand that is not a Swiss luxury powerhouse or part of a mega conglomerate. Think of Rolex, Richemont or the Swatch Group for example. Most micro and independents we write about are, more often than not, brands that are more about design and a certain lifestyle philosophy than engineering and manufacturing. 99% of brands I love are the former. This doesn’t mean, however, that the latter don’t exist. Instead, an independent brand can be qualified as being one which goes beyond design to create stuff. A lot of new and cutting-edge stuff. This brings us to Horage, the Swiss that has been covered in these pages extensively, and more recently, most recently when Ed Jelley reviewed the Lensman 2. What we know about Horage is this: they make their own movements, good ones at that, and unique looking watches. I recently attended an event hosted by Horage through which I discovered that the brand actually does much more. Not only does Horage make its own movements, but it’s also at the forefront of technology to make watch manufacturing more sustainable. Or, should I say, watch collecting more sustainable. Through the discovery of their newest model and caliber-which I will tell you about in a second-I realized that everything in life does indeed work in cycles. Think about this: Rolex started as what we now describe as being a microbrand. It bought parts from many places to...

The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin commits to green and gold Time+Tide
Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Oct 11, 2023

The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin commits to green and gold

Bright and flashy colours were initially seen as a returning trend when they first started cropping up a couple of years ago, but unlike the Stella dials or funky divers of the 1970s, colours have permeated all corners of watchmaking. A perpetual calendar watch is possibly the ultimate commitment to a colour, as it’s fully … ContinuedThe post The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin commits to green and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Are You Coming to the Largest Windup Watch Fair to Date? Our Lead Sponsors are Bringing the Goods! Worn & Wound
Bulova Since Oct 10, 2023

Are You Coming to the Largest Windup Watch Fair to Date? Our Lead Sponsors are Bringing the Goods!

If you’ve already come to a Windup Watch Fair in the past, plan to be pleasantly surprised when we open the doors on October 20th through the 22nd in NYC. If you haven’t been to one before, you’re going to be blown away by the sheer scope of the fair we’ve built out this year. As a reminder, here are the key event details: The Altman Building on 18th Street between 6th and 7th avenues (135 W 18th St) Friday, October 20: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, October 21: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, October 22: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public We have over 80 brands showcasing their watches and goods on two floors! This includes a handful of never-before-seen-in-the-metal watches and the introduction of “EDC Alley” to NYC, which was successfully piloted in both San Francisco and Chicago earlier this year. But look no further than our five Lead Sponsors to find some new releases that are sure to make any watch enthusiast jump for joy. Our Lead Sponsors Bulova Since its inception in 1875, Bulova has been synonymous with quality, precision, and innovation in the world of timekeeping. With a rich heritage and a commitment to exceptional craftsmanship, Bulova continues to create watches that blend classic elegance with cutting-edge technology. From the iconic Archive Series to the celebrated CURV and proprietary Precisionist movement, Bulova remains a symbol of excellence in the art of watchmaking. Be sure to check out their collection of classic field watches which will be paired w...

Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Yema Oct 6, 2023

Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary

Celebrating 75 years in business, French watchmakers Yema have recently released their Yachtingraf Tourbillon Maréographe, a tribute to classic design and Franco-Swiss watchmaking mastery. Ringing in a milestone is never an easy feat; but, somehow, Yema has been able to accomplish not only a timeless design, but something that showcases the pursuit of excellence that has defined the brand over the course of its history.  Don’t let the plain black and steel (or bronze) design fool you – this watch is anything but simple. Yema has incorporated a balance between yachting heritage design and function to show what this watch is capable of – while also doing it with a certain je nais sais quoi, courtesy of a somewhat unexpected tourbillon caliber. The tourbillon is visible at the 6 o’clock mark, giving one an interior look into the precision mechanisms of this masterpiece. Opposite that, at the 12 hour, the Maréographe has a unique lunar time complication with a display of tide cycles, complete with a decorative bearing the traditional Yema “Y” logo. While maybe not part of your day-to-day needs, it’s nonetheless a showing of Yema’s technical capabilities and a bit of a unique offering for an important anniversary. This watch measures in at 42.5 mm, giving it a sense of presence on the wrist that matches the various finishes of the design. The rotating bezel is beautifully crafted with additional scratch protection, while the double-domed sapphire crystal will...

Windup Watch Fair Returns To NYC In October With Special Guest: You! Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward G-Shock Oris Oct 2, 2023

Windup Watch Fair Returns To NYC In October With Special Guest: You!

There are many things we love about the Fall season in New York. Crisp temperatures mean we can finally add another layer to our dayfits for pleasure (before necessity). After our biggest Windups in San Francisco and Chicago this year, Fall in New York completes the final third of our Windup Watch Fair trifecta. The very first Windup Watch Fair was here in NYC. In 2015, we brought 14 brands into a small shop in SoHo. We could only hope that the energy we saw in the comments of our articles and from the independent brands we covered would translate into a worthwhile in-person experience with you, our readers. What an experience you’ve made! A quick equation on a classic CA-53W-1CR will show this year’s Windup Watch Fair NYC is more than 5 times larger than our initial endeavor in Soho. We’re welcoming over 80 brands to two levels of the Altman Building-adding even more to explore after last year’s festivities. This free event is a permanent fixture for our Fall season. We’re so excited to share it with you.  WINDUP WATCH FAIR NEW YORK The Altman Building – 135 W 18th St, New York, NY 10011 October 20– 12pm to 6pm October  21 – 12pm to 6pm October 22 – 12pm to 5pm Five lead sponsors, Bulova, Christopher Ward, G-Shock, Oris, and Zodiac, will be showcasing their latest releases from a year of innovation and collaboration. Beyond releases, be sure to look for additional online programming happening over the three days. Thanks in large part to our lead spon...

Talking Watches and Guitars with the Legendary John McLaughlin: From Miles Davis to Mahavishnu and Only Watch – Reprise Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Oct 1, 2023

Talking Watches and Guitars with the Legendary John McLaughlin: From Miles Davis to Mahavishnu and Only Watch – Reprise

After Colin Alexander Smith noticed John McLaughlin wearing an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in live footage from the 1990s along with various other interesting timepieces, he somewhat cheekily asked him for an interview to discuss his watches rather than his music or his guitars, to which he kindly agreed. Not surprisingly they ended up discussing all three in this riveting interview spanning decades' worth of music, stories, and timepieces.

How To Clean A Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 28, 2023

How To Clean A Watch

When you’re starting or building upon a watch collection, keeping those watches clean is probably a matter to which you rarely give much thought on a day-to-day basis. Of course, there’s always the least time-intensive option, outsourcing your watch’s semi-regular cleaning to your local watchmaker or watch repairer when you send the timepiece in for its recommended technical maintenance. But if you’re interested in keeping your timepieces in tip-top condition between services - and especially if you have notions of perhaps selling or trading any of them for the maximum return - there are some simple steps you can take on your own, for minimal cost, that can ensure your watches are maintained at a level that’s both presentable and potentially sellable. Watches, after all, are not only luxury objects; they are also items that are worn regularly, day after day in some cases, like a pair of boots or shoes, or an overcoat. And like those items, they encounter all kinds of conditions based upon the wearer’s lifestyle, occupation, and recreational pursuits. Watches are also worn right against the skin, with all of the exposure to sweat, dirt, and unexpected atmospheric splatter that implies. Thus, regular cleaning of your watches should be considered a regular chore in the cycle of life, like doing the laundry or washing your car. The go-to shortcut of wiping the watch’s crystal with an untucked shirt tail or handkerchief - we’ve all done it - isn’t goin...

Bell & Ross Adds to their Flight Instruments Collection with the BR 03 Gyrocompass Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Adds Sep 27, 2023

Bell & Ross Adds to their Flight Instruments Collection with the BR 03 Gyrocompass

Earlier this month, we shared news that Bell & Ross has recalibrated their iconic BR 03 case to be just a little bit more wearable, adding several revamped versions of the classic aviation inspired into the collection in one fell swoop. Now, just weeks later, we get what would appear to be the first newly released watch in the BR 03 collection following that announcement to see the benefit of the new case dimensions. As a total sucker for the weirder side of Bell & Ross, I’m glad to see that the watch chosen for the occassion is a new entry in their Flight Instruments collection, a strange corner of the Bell & Ross catalog where you’ll find watches that recreate the aesthetic of cockpit instruments. This latest watch, the BR 03 Gyrocompass, uses an essential flight tool as inspiration for a dial that makes it very clear that this thing belongs in the sky.  The Flight Instruments collection dates back to 2010, and over the years Bell & Ross has created watches that recreate cockpit necessities like radar screen, horizon line indicators, and altimeters. These watches are among the most whimsical in the Bell & Ross lineup because normally they don’t offer any additional functionality related to the instrument they are emulating. The radar inspired watches just have a dynamic red sheen over the dial, and the horizon line watch uses a two piece dial to suggest the instrument, but in watch form. Similarly, the Gyrocompass seen here is merely an ode to the real thing, a pu...

Wedding Watches: The 10 Best Brands According to Our Instagram Fans Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 26, 2023

Wedding Watches: The 10 Best Brands According to Our Instagram Fans

Weddings are an occasion for gift giving, and a fine watch always makes an ideal gift, whether it’s from a parent to a prospective son- or daughter-in-law, a groom to a best man, or exchanged between the betrothed couple in addition to (or in place of) the traditional rings. What are the best wedding watches? We put the question out to our 300,000-plus followers on Instagram (some but not all of them married or engaged) and were overwhelmed by the response. Here we break it down into the top 10 watch brands named in the survey and spotlight some of the specific models that our respondents favored. 1. LONGINES Leading the pack with 25 mentions is Longines, a brand known for making elegant timepieces for both men and ladies and pricing them reasonably. Among the models mentioned specifically are the Master Collection Chronograph, Spirit, Hydroconquest, Flagship Heritage, and Legend Diver. When it comes to Swiss watchmakers, it seems, the venerable maison in bucolic Saint-Imier hits the sweet spot for many prospective brides and grooms. Longines Legend Diver Bronze The Longines Legend Diver is a modern re-issue of a compressor-style dive watch Price: $3,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 12.7mm, Lug to Lug: 48.2mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300m, Movement: Automatic ETA A31.L11 The Longines Legend Diver is a modern re-issue of a compressor-style dive watch it produced in 1960, here with a case made of bronze, a metal historically used in maritime equipment due to i...

The Journey To Diving In Tudor’s New Black Pelagos FXD Worn & Wound
Tudor s New Black Pelagos Sep 21, 2023

The Journey To Diving In Tudor’s New Black Pelagos FXD

Earlier this year, in the middle of our Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, Benrus put together a dive trip in the cold waters of Lake Michigan in celebration of their Ultra-Deep dive watch. You can see my photo report from the morning expedition right here. While diving has always been on my periphery, a side effect of writing about scores of dive watches over the years, I had never truly confronted the idea of getting dive certified myself until the experience of seeing those divers, many of them friends, take their turns stepping off the boat and into the depths. So, not long after returning back to New York, I scheduled time to get my open water dive certification through NAUI instructors. The only decision left was which watch I’d use during the process.  I’ll confess, the final kick to get certified came upon learning of a dive trip that was being planned by Tudor, something off the coast of Florida in the Gulf, potentially around a new watch release (which of course ended up being the case). With that knowledge in mind, it felt appropriate to complete my training with a Tudor Pelagos FXD on one wrist, and the Apple Watch Ultra on the other. The idea of putting these things to use in such a manner was half the excitement, allowing me the opportunity to experience them as intended, and creating an additional layer of context within which I could assess them as tools. And not just the Tudor, but all of my divers.  Having access to more seasoned divers during this proce...

You’re Invited to the Launch of the Next Zodiac x Worn & Wound Collab Worn & Wound
Zodiac x Worn & Wound Sep 15, 2023

You’re Invited to the Launch of the Next Zodiac x Worn & Wound Collab

In 2021 Zodiac and Worn & Wound teamed up to create a collaborative watch inspired by outdoor gear and 90s design sensibilities. It earned the nickname “Saved by The Bell” and became a cult hit, because of its fun colors and throwback packaging. Now, for 2023, Zodiac and Worn & Wound have teamed up once again to create yet another nostalgia-fueled collaboration launching 9.28.23 at 12pm Eastern. Join us for an evening of lasers, lights, and lume all in celebration of the era back when bangs were big, spandex was in, and a little bit of pizza grease on your trigger finger only made you a better shot. The battle begins Thursday 9.28.23 in Brooklyn at 7PM. Click here to register for your chance to join us for a launch party you’ll never forget!   The post You’re Invited to the Launch of the Next Zodiac x Worn & Wound Collab appeared first on Worn & Wound.

How chronometers went from ships to wrists Time+Tide
Sep 14, 2023

How chronometers went from ships to wrists

As soon as John Harrison realised that a pocket watch could be made to be just as accurate as his 60cm-tall chronometer sea clocks, the road to wristwatch chronometry had begun. Most watch enthusiasts are familiar with how wristwatches became popular after WWI, thanks to the convenience of keeping your hands free while soldiering. It … ContinuedThe post How chronometers went from ships to wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Apple Brings Updates to New Generation of Apple Watches Series 9, & Ultra 2 Worn & Wound
Sep 12, 2023

Apple Brings Updates to New Generation of Apple Watches Series 9, & Ultra 2

Apple held their annual September event today, introducing new iPhones and new Apple Watch models in the process. This year, Apple is leaning heavily into environmental consciousness across all of their new products, including new straps that utilize recycled materials, as we’ve seen with increasing recency in the watch world. In addition to new Series 9 watches, Apple also introduced a second generation of their Apple Watch Ultra, with the Ultra 2. Both utilize Apple’s new home cooked silicon, the S9 SiP, a more powerful chip, allowing for a slew of new on board features that are less reliant on your connectivity status, including the ability to recognize gestures. The watches retain largely the same design across the board, so the real story is the new silicon, and the 100% carbon neutral status of the product in many configurations.  The Apple Watch has established itself as the most popular watch in the world since it was first introduced 9 years ago, and while its form factor hasn’t substantially changed over the years, it’s become far more powerful with each generation, allowing it to blossom into its own product category for Apple. I suspect we’ll see the first big design update for its 10th anniversary next year, but until then the Series 9 and Ultra 2 will look to keep the trend moving forward. The Apple Watch Ultra was introduced just last year, a rugged take on the formula which won over those of us who prefer using the Apple Watch for specific scenar...

Tissot PRX Watches: The Ultimate Guide to the Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Sep 12, 2023

Tissot PRX Watches: The Ultimate Guide to the Collection

The Tissot PRX collection is one of the Swiss brand’s major success stories of the past decade despite its relatively recent introduction to the market. Engaging the 21st-Century watch aficionado zeitgeist with its crowd-pleasing combination of classical sport-luxury design, intriguing colorways, and accessible price points, the Tissot PRX has grown from a handful of models to become a modern pillar of the 170-year-old brand’s sprawling and diverse portfolio. Here’s a rundown of the Tissot PRX collection, with a spotlight on several of its most noteworthy models.  The Original: 1978 The original Tissot PRX debuted in 1978, and like many watches from that era, it was powered by a quartz movement. The watch was distinguished by its flat, barrel-shaped, multi-faceted case, which integrated smoothly into a flexible, articulated steel bracelet; it took its three-initial model name from its attributes: the “P” and “R” stand for “precise” and “robust,”respectively, and the “X” is actually a Roman numeral “10” depicting the model’s 10 atmospheres (aka 100 meters) of water resistance. The overall aesthetic was one that today’s watch historians will readily recognize, hearkening back to the groundbreaking design of a much pricier watch that had debuted several years earlier, in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The latter had, in fact, exerted influence on a number of so-called “sport-luxury” timepieces that debuted in the Decade of Disco,...

Zenith Adds a Black Dial to the Chronomaster Original Family Worn & Wound
Zenith Adds Sep 12, 2023

Zenith Adds a Black Dial to the Chronomaster Original Family

It is perhaps a reflection of all the good work Zenith has done over the last few years that a new variant of the Chronomaster Original can arrive and it feels like a watch that has simply existed for years. The El Primero 3600 powered line of vintage influenced chronographs feel timeless in a way that only a small handful of watches can – those few that have been around for decades and gone through only incremental changes. Under the hood, the Chronomaster Original is about as tech forward as you can get when it comes to mass market chronos from a heritage Swiss brand, with its impressive 1/10th second counter. But the dial, on this new version, does the neat trick of creating something brand new to the line that seems both obvious and every bit as classic as the “original” Original.  When we think of the Chronomaster Original, it’s the tri-colored subdial arrangement that immediately comes to mind for most. That is the design characteristic of the dial that feels most essential. You could be forgiven for asking yourself the question: did this ever come in black? The answer, until now (and for this case size) was “no,” but here Zenith has unveiled a new Chronomaster Original that substitutes the cream white backdrop of the earlier version of the watch for a simple black. White and black as options are so ubiquitous in this segment that it’s genuinely surprising this watch was only just introduced as a secondary option. Zenith, of course, already makes this ...

From podium to pandemonium – Carlos Sainz chases down $500,000 Richard Mille thief Time+Tide
Richard Mille thief After delivering one Sep 10, 2023

From podium to pandemonium – Carlos Sainz chases down $500,000 Richard Mille thief

After delivering one of the drives of his career and scoring a podium in front of the Tifosi, Ferrari driver Carlos Sainz found himself in a highly uncomfortable situation just hours after the podium celebrations. With the perpetrators reportedly posing as fans waiting for a signature upon his arrival to the Armani Hotel, the three … ContinuedThe post From podium to pandemonium – Carlos Sainz chases down $500,000 Richard Mille thief appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is Silicon Here to Stay in (Rolex) Watch Movements? – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Sep 10, 2023

Is Silicon Here to Stay in (Rolex) Watch Movements? – Reprise

Hairsprings are miniscule. Generally no more than one centimeter in overall diameter when coiled, they are roughly 50 microns thick and 150 microns wide. Tiny they may be, but insignificant they are not. In fact, they are so significant that Rolex refers to them as “the guardians of time.” But what do silicon hairsprings bring to the table? Watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains why he went from skeptic to fan.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Par(x) Tees Off with Debut Collection Featuring a Game Changing Fabric Technology, an Extremely Rare Leica that Started It All & Accidentally Uncovering Norway’s Treasure of the Century Worn & Wound
Sep 9, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Par(x) Tees Off with Debut Collection Featuring a Game Changing Fabric Technology, an Extremely Rare Leica that Started It All & Accidentally Uncovering Norway’s Treasure of the Century

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Par(x) Par(x) Debuts Inaugural Collection Featuring A Game Changing Fabric Technology  Via Par(x) It seems that now, more than ever, the sport of golf has increased in popularity and its influence has stretched far beyond the fairway, spawning the likes of golf-centric apparel brands, sport-specific podcasts, community-based meetups, and even a watch designed to help keep your scorecard accurate. However, there is one brand that we think you should keep your eye on, and they go by the name, Par(x). Via Par(x) Par(x) offers up a diverse catalog designed to take you from course to cafe (and back to the course for a second round), with each piece featuring a new and impressive fabric technology known as Filium® Activation. Filium® Activation transforms any type of fabric, whether that be cotton, silk or wool, into a water-repelling, fast drying, odor free garment without losing its original makeup. The brand has already been field testing their products out on the U.S Open tour and we’ve seen first-hand an ordinary cotton t-shirt with Filium® Activation shrug o...

Our First Reactions to the Swatch X Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms Worn & Wound
Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms Has Sep 8, 2023

Our First Reactions to the Swatch X Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms

Has the new Swatch X Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms completely taken over your Instagram feed? It has for us. Ever since the watch was teased via a cryptic newspaper ad a little over a week ago, speculation has run rampant about just what Swatch might be up to this time. Their follow up to the Uber-successful MoonSwatch is a bio-ceramic timepiece in much the same vein, but sub oceans for planets, and the mighty Fifty Fathoms for the Speedmaster. Here, the Worn & Wound editorial team reacts to the latest Swatch, sure to generate not just long lines this weekend, but red hot takes for months on end. Zach Weiss Can lightning strike twice? It can if you build a large enough lightning rod, or so the folks at Swatch believe. When the MoonSwatch launched last year, there was a lot of speculation as to whether or not they would do something similar with another brand. Another “crossover for the people,” to be kind. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms always seemed like the most likely candidate as, well, there aren’t many other truly iconic watches under the Swatch umbrella. At least, not on the scale of the Speedmaster. A year and a half-ish later, we know the answer. My first reaction wasn’t “wow, I can’t believe they did it again!” It was “already?”. Yeah, I’m not surprised Swatch would try to double down on their most successful launch, not just recently, but, like, ever, I was just surprised it was so soon. The Moonswatch has had an odd life cycle that I would hard...

The US Open is Nearly Complete, Which Means Only a Few Days Left to Order the Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster II Worn & Wound
Sep 6, 2023

The US Open is Nearly Complete, Which Means Only a Few Days Left to Order the Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster II

The US Open, the professional tennis season’s final major tournament, is currently in its closing stages, which means you’re running out of time to purchase the watch seen here, the Rallymaster II by Maurice de Mauriac, made in partnership with Racquet magazine. This is a sequel to the original Rallymaster, released last year in conjunction with the French Open in a run of just 40 pieces. The quick sell out of that watch prompted the team behind it to make the next one a little more available, with a strategy this time of limited production: anyone who’d like to can order the watch, but only during the dates of the US Open. The tournament began on August 28, and the last match will be played on September 10 (this coming Sunday), at which point tennis fans will have to wait for what we imagine will be a Wimbledon or Australian Open themed watch, but that’s speculation for another day.  The Rallymaster II takes the whimsical, colorful formula of the first watch and spins it just slightly to accommodate a color palette that makes a little more sense for the marquee event in US tennis. The US Open, year after year, is a spectacle, drawing viewers both in-person and on television that might be only casual tennis fans, but can’t help but get caught up in the tournament’s inherent drama. A combination of the boisterous New York crowds, matches that stretch late into the evening, and competitors playing in top late season form always make for an exciting two weeks.  ...

Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II): Despite Looking Similar to its Predecessor, Everything is New Quill & Pad
Rexhep Rexhepi Sep 3, 2023

Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II): Despite Looking Similar to its Predecessor, Everything is New

The classic design of the Akrivia RRCC II’s dial has roots in founder Rexhep Rexhepi’s vision of high-quality nineteenth-century pocket watch dials adorned with high-fire enamel and combined with a modern twist based on “sector” dials of the 1930s and '40s. But there's much more to this brand-new watch than that as Elizabeth Doerr explains.