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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

First Look – The Louis Moinet Astronef Techno has a Sci-Fi Silicon Wafer Dial and Two Tourbis Monochrome
Louis Moinet Feb 16, 2024

First Look – The Louis Moinet Astronef Techno has a Sci-Fi Silicon Wafer Dial and Two Tourbis

Since 2013, Louis Moinet has made sure to captivate enthusiasts with each new release. Known for its audacious design and technical prowess, Louis Moinet never fails to intrigue. In 2021, the unveiling of the Astronef, born from a collaboration between Louis Moinet, Concepto (a movement maker specializing in tourbillons), and designer Fabrice Gonet, showcased twin […]

A Guide to Modern California Dials Worn & Wound
Panerai which has featured watches Feb 16, 2024

A Guide to Modern California Dials

The watch industry is rife with examples of watch brands turning to the past for new releases. The interest in vintage designs has led to some fun and unique long-forgotten or long-inaccessible designs finding a new audience. Consider the Timex World Time 1972 Reissue bringing some 70s funk to the 2020s. Or the Tudor Black Bay 54 giving Rolex Submariner fans the closest thing you can get to an original Sub without spending tens of thousands of dollars. And now, in the last few years watch brands have seen fit to revisit one of the most interesting and obscure vintage designs out there: the California dial. The California dial is the nickname given to watches that have Roman numerals on the upper half of the watch and Arabic on the lower half, typically with lines at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock spots and a triangle at the 12. This unique dial has a strong association with Panerai, which has featured watches with the dial in its catalog for some time now, but, like many developments in watchmaking, it was actually created by Rolex. Patented in 1942, the dial was originally known as the “error-proof” dial, designed to be more easily read because the different style numerals “clearly distinguishes these two halves” of the watch and “the Roman numerals chosen are those which are the simplest to perform and the easiest to read.” (Seems unnecessary, but it certainly wound up looking cool.) The modern PAM01349 The error-proof dial picked up the “California” moniker w...

The Grand Prix is the Latest Historic Reference to be Revived by Vulcain Worn & Wound
Vulcain Building Feb 15, 2024

The Grand Prix is the Latest Historic Reference to be Revived by Vulcain

Building on a rich heritage spanning over 165 years, Swiss watchmaker Vulcain continues to draw attention in the watch industry with each new reissue. Under the leadership of Guillaume Laidet, Vulcain’s Chief Revival Officer, the brand has been on a trajectory of reinterpreting its iconic timepieces, breathing new life into past references. Since 2022, Vulcain has been setting the tone for each season with strategic launches of emblematic collections, including the Cricket, Skindiver, Nautical, and more. Today, Vulcain has rereleased another popular model, the highly anticipated Grand Prix. Originally introduced in the 1960s to commemorate Vulcain’s triumph at the 1929 Barcelona International Exhibition, the Grand Prix returns with a diameter of 39mm, a great contemporary size with plenty of presence for a variety of wrists. The Vulcain Grand Prix 39mm really exemplifies Swiss elegance. Its slim and uncluttered design is a no-fuss interpretation of a clean, vintage watch that will surely garner the attention of those looking for that “Old Money” aesthetic we hear so much about on TikTok nowadays. Equipped with a Swiss Landeron automatic movement, the time-only watch features a domed crystal over a dial in Champagne, Light Grey, or Black with a semi-glossy sunray finish. With a brushed/polished steel case and polished hour markers on the dial, these vintage-inspired elements are complemented by a double-dome sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, ensuring op...

First Look – Chiming Time for the new Speake Marin Minute Repeater Carillon Monochrome
Speake-Marin Feb 14, 2024

First Look – Chiming Time for the new Speake Marin Minute Repeater Carillon

Before chiming mechanisms appeared in miniaturised form inside table clocks and, eventually, pocket watches and wristwatches, our ancestors relied on the bells of clock towers to tell the time. Minute repeaters, which strike the hours, quarters and minutes on request, require extraordinary horological skill and a trained musical ear to create. Speake Marin’s latest watch, […]

First Look – The Dazzling Gem-Set Zenith Chronomaster Sport Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Any serious Feb 12, 2024

First Look – The Dazzling Gem-Set Zenith Chronomaster Sport

Any serious watch buff is familiar with the story of Zenith’s El Primero high-frequency automatic chronograph calibre of 1969. Fast-forward to the 21st century, and Zenith’s iconic movement ticks on thanks to upgrades and ever-higher frequencies to track elapsed times. A variant of the brand’s famous Zenith Chronomaster – itself a descendant of the iconic […]

Building A Watch Brand Episode 13: The Logistics Of Bringing A Watch To Market Fratello
VPC Type 37H I have Feb 9, 2024

Building A Watch Brand Episode 13: The Logistics Of Bringing A Watch To Market

After well over a year, we are finally approaching the moment I can launch my VPC Type 37H. I have published many articles about the development of the watch itself, but today, I want to get into the logistics and commercial side of launching my debut watch. It is another side of the project that […] Visit Building A Watch Brand Episode 13: The Logistics Of Bringing A Watch To Market to read the full article.

Zenith Adds a Titanium Chronomaster Sport to the Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Adds Feb 8, 2024

Zenith Adds a Titanium Chronomaster Sport to the Collection

The last two weeks have been big for Zenith’s El Primero line. First an El Primero Triple Calendar, then two new Chronomaster Sport references, one in green the other in rose gold with a gem set bezel. Now Zenith is dropping another entirely iteration, in a new metal: the Chronomaster Sport Titanium. The watch was announced as a part of Zenith’s partnership with famed tennis coach Patrick Mouratoglou’s Ultimate Tennis Showdown league, which kicks off its season this month. (Mouratoglou is well-known to tennis fans, but to give outsiders a sense of his stature, this guy coached Serena Williams for her last decade on tour, arguably her most dominant era.) Zenith has been the official timekeeper for the league since it launched in 2020, and the new Chronomaster Sport seems designed with that relationship and serious athletic activity in mind. The Chronomaster Sport Titanium features a 41mm grade 5 titanium case, bezel, and bracelet–though a strap option is also available for $500 less–making the watch 30% lighter than the steel models. (Surprisingly, the titanium model is also not that much more expensive than comparable steel models, coming in at $11,800 on the bracelet, versus $11,300 for a stainless steel Chronomaster Sport on the bracelet.) Titanium is also highly-resistant to corrosion, making it an ideal metal for a watch that’s meant to be worn in sweat-inducing environments. A signature of the Chronomaster Sport is its use of color, particularly on the thr...

First Look – The New Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium Zenith Feb 8, 2024

First Look – The New Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium

Zenith captured the attention and resonated strongly with enthusiasts in 2021 by unveiling the Chronomaster Sport collection. Setting itself apart from its predecessors, the series introduced several distinctive elements. Notably, the bezel graduated to 1/10th of a second, a departure from the traditional and arguably redundant tachymeter scale found on many chronographs. Following multiple variants […]

12 Pink-Dial and Salmon-Dial Watches from Affordable to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 7, 2024

12 Pink-Dial and Salmon-Dial Watches from Affordable to Luxury

Watches with pink dials used to be fairly rare, and confined almost exclusively to dainty timepieces aimed at jewelry-loving ladies. In recent years, however, pink tones have found their way to a wide variety of timepieces, ranging from dressy and elegant to casual and sporty - many of which have found an avid audience among male enthusiasts as well as female. With Valentine’s Day around the corner, we’ve compiled a list of pink-dialed watches (along with several that qualify more as “salmon,” pink’s peach-toned, more muted cousin) in a variety of price ranges from under $1,000 up to $25,000. While many would primarily be regarded as ladies’ watches, the goal here is to spotlight timepieces with unisex appeal: every timepiece here is 34mm or larger, and almost none have a trace of jewelry. Maurice Lacroix Aikon Tide Pink Price: $750, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 11mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Quartz  Introduced in 2022, Maurice Lacroix’s beach-ready Aikon Tide has a case constructed from a revolutionary composite material that combines ocean-recovered plastic with glass fiber. The resulting substance is twice as hard as standard plastic and five times more resistant, with the added bonus of also having a smaller carbon footprint than regular PET. This model’s pink dial bears the familiar aesthetic hallmarks of the brand’s flagship Aikon sport-luxury collection, including the distinctive “clawed” case, somewhat Royal-Oak-...

First Look – The Piaget Polo 79 Recovers its Original Design and Opulent Gold Attire Monochrome
Piaget Polo 79 Recovers Feb 5, 2024

First Look – The Piaget Polo 79 Recovers its Original Design and Opulent Gold Attire

When it was relaunched with a modernized and sleeker design in 2016, the Piaget Polo adopted the design cues of luxury sports watches, slightly changing the face of the collection to become a cushion-shaped watch. However, this isn’t how the model started its life. This year, Piaget celebrates its 150th anniversary, and to whet our […]

Wristwatch Precision: Why the Fundamental Purpose of Watches is Playing Second Fiddle and How to Fix This Quill & Pad
Feb 5, 2024

Wristwatch Precision: Why the Fundamental Purpose of Watches is Playing Second Fiddle and How to Fix This

Mechanical watches have become about so much more than precision. They are status symbols, works of art and passion, a testimony of human ingenuity, and much more. Precision, as long as it reaches a certain standard, plays second fiddle. Martin Green thinks that brands should devote more emphasis to precision and he has an idea to encourage that.

First Look – The Grand Seiko Pink Snowflake SBGA497, Celebrating 20 Years of the 9R Spring Drive Calibre Monochrome
Grand Seiko Pink Snowflake SBGA497 Celebrating Feb 5, 2024

First Look – The Grand Seiko Pink Snowflake SBGA497, Celebrating 20 Years of the 9R Spring Drive Calibre

Even though its development started during the 1970s, it took some years for Seiko and Grand Seiko to finally present their first movement equipped with the Spring Drive technology (the very first was a Seiko in 1999). In 2004, after more than 2 decades of research, the first generation of Grand Seiko Spring Drive was […]

Breaking Down The Brand Vacheron Constantin: A Member Of The Illustrious “Holy Trinity Of Watchmaking” With A History Dating Back To 1755 Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Feb 2, 2024

Breaking Down The Brand Vacheron Constantin: A Member Of The Illustrious “Holy Trinity Of Watchmaking” With A History Dating Back To 1755

It always sparks a debate when people read about the “Holy Trinity of Watchmaking.” Maybe that is because some perceive it as an outdated concept - a secret fraternity that has lost touch with reality. Still, Vacheron Constantin is considered one of the members of this unofficial club, alongside Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Once, […] Visit Breaking Down The Brand Vacheron Constantin: A Member Of The Illustrious “Holy Trinity Of Watchmaking” With A History Dating Back To 1755 to read the full article.