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Quartz Crisis

1969-1985 industry collapse triggered by the Seiko Astron. Cost Swiss watchmaking two-thirds of its workforce; rebounded via Swatch Group consolidation and Biver's Blancpain.

Wiki · Guide
The Quartz Astron Launch Seiko

Christmas Day 1969: Seiko launches the world\'s first quartz wristwatch and detonates the Swiss watch industry.

Review: Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 45GS SLGW005 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 45GS SLGW005 Feb 14, 2025

Review: Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 45GS SLGW005

Grand Seiko announced in September last year a vintage remake inspired by the 45GS of 1968, the Heritage Collection 45GS Re-creation, which was launched as the SLGW005 in steel and the SLGW004 in yellow gold. In contrast to the many recent Grand Seiko releases with modern styling, the 45SG Re-creation is refreshing in being a revival of an iconic design, right down to the double-signed dial. Yet, the model also sports the brand’s latest generation manual-wind movement, the 9SA4. As the more accessible model of the two – retail is a little under US$10,000 – the steel SLGW005 deserves a closer look to understand how it smartly melds old and new. Initial thoughts Aesthetically, the SLGW005 stands out as a distinctively vintage design, from the case and dial to the buckle. This is all the more so since it is the first release since Grand Seiko’s rebranding in 2017, when all models eliminated “Seiko” in favour of only “Grand Seiko”, to feature the brand’s historical double-signed “Seiko” and “GS” dial. I am personally fond of this detail, as the double logo balances the dial aesthetically. But preferences aside, the external components are indeed excellent, from the dial work down to the faceted case. Despite the traditional exterior, the internals are modern – almost paradoxically so. Sporting the brand’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, the 9SA4 inside is entirely different than the 1960s cal. 4520 found in the 45GS. On paper, it is a high-s...

The Rose Gold SBGH368 Enters Grand Seiko’s Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Permanent Collection Perhaps Feb 12, 2025

The Rose Gold SBGH368 Enters Grand Seiko’s Permanent Collection

Perhaps the crown jewel of Grand Seiko’s automatic watches, the 62GS was the brand’s first to feature an automatic movement. Vintage 62GS pieces championed subtlety with small crowns, “bezel-less” crystals, and smooth, polished edges. The 62GS has lived on through many contemporary iterations, and most hold on to that understated elegance as a key design feature. The current lineup of Heritage Collection pieces reflects almost all the hallmarks of the 62GS that it’s based on, albeit with dials themed for the 24 solar terms of the Japanese sekki.  Grand Seiko’s newest 62GS piece continues the seasonal motif of the Heritage Collection lineup but adds even more color by enveloping it in 18-karat rose gold. This rose gold reference, SBGH368 in the Grand Seiko catalog, is meant to symbolize cherry blossoms covered in snow, featuring a textured copper pink dial encased in a dual curve sapphire crystal. The indices, dauphine hands, date window frame, and screw-down crown match the case material, as does Grand Seiko’s logo positioned just above the brand’s name, below the double-thick 12 marker. An exhibition case back showcases the Hi-Beat 9S85 automatic movement, which features 37 jewels and a 55-hour power reserve, as well as 100-meter water resistance.  In terms of sizing, the SBGH368’s case measures 38mm in diameter and 12.9mm in thickness, maintaining the standard specs of the 62GS line. The 20mm lug width promises easy strap-swapping, though the included...

Introducing: The Absolutely Wonderful Grand Seiko SBGH368 “Sakura Kakushi” Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGH368 “Sakura Kakushi” Feb 12, 2025

Introducing: The Absolutely Wonderful Grand Seiko SBGH368 “Sakura Kakushi”

In the great Grand Seiko tradition, the horological year starts early. We already covered the brand’s first releases of 2025 on January 31st, and Mike wrote about another on February 3rd. Now, less than two weeks into the month, Grand Seiko treats us to one more delight. Today, the brand announces the wonderful SBGH368 “Sakura […] Visit Introducing: The Absolutely Wonderful Grand Seiko SBGH368 “Sakura Kakushi” to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Scales Down the 62GS to 30 mm and Stays Mechanical SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Scales Down Feb 12, 2025

Grand Seiko Scales Down the 62GS to 30 mm and Stays Mechanical

Grand Seiko’s latest offering is unusual – it’s a 30 mm self-winding model specifically conceived for ladies, in contrast to the vast majority of the Grand Seiko catalogue that’s made up of men’s or mid-sized watches. The Heritage Collection 62GS Mechanical 30 mm measures just 10.5 mm thick, making it the brand’s slimmest mechanical model to date. Notably, the new 62GS pair, STGK031 and STGK033, are the first to adopt a case design found on men’s watches, refining it for a smaller format as a ladies model. Initial thoughts In my view, the 62GS case stands out as the most appealing configuration in Grand Seiko’s extensive lineup. While it retains a distinctly Japanese design heritage, it remains one of the few Grand Seiko models that blends vintage and modern styles. As an owner of the 40 mm 62GS, I can personally attest to its versatility on the wrist, largely due to its slim case profile. The new 62GS 30 mm is essentially a scaled down version of the 40 mm model. It stands out for being the first ladies’ models that adapt a design of a men’s watch. In contrast, earlier Grand Seiko ladies watches had a cushion-shaped case that is arguably less appealing since it doesn’t have a distinctive Grand Seiko style. While Grand Seiko’s continued emphasis on nature-inspired dials may feel somewhat overused, the 62GS 30 mm is priced similar to its men’s counterpart and still represents good value. 62GS The Grand Seiko catalogue does include mid-sized watches...

Seiko Adds Another Affordable Fired Enamel Dial to the Presage SJX Watches
Seiko Adds Another Affordable Fired Feb 10, 2025

Seiko Adds Another Affordable Fired Enamel Dial to the Presage

A tribute to Seiko’s first-ever pocket watch dating to 1895, the Presage Craftsmanship Series SPB495 boasts a white fired enamel dial with elongated Roman numerals, a style typical of pocket watches during the turn of the century. As is tradition for the Presage Craftsmanship series, the fired enamel dial is produced in the workshop of Mitsuru Yokosawa in the traditional way, firing the enamel glaze in a high-temperature kiln, while staying accessible with a retail price of US$1,400. Initial thoughts Seiko has released numerous re-creations of its first wristwatch, the Laurel of 1913, including the recent Presage “Porter Classic” SPB449. However, with the SPB495, the brand now goes back even further to its first pocket watch, which is marking its 130th anniversary this year. Notably, this uses the revamped Presage case that’s a little smaller and slimmer than earlier generations. The case is still a little big for a dress watch, but acceptable and also necessary due to the size of the movement. The dial is typical of 19th century pocket watches and extremely classical, even by the standards of the classical Presage series. It’s basically another option for someone who appreciates the cost-performance offering of the Presage. Staying in the usual sweet spot for pricing of the Presage Craftsmanship Series, the SPB495 is priced competitively at US$1,400. Although it’s pricier than the base-model Presage offerings, the price is more than justified by the fired enam...

The Monocoque Seiko Tuna Models - A History And Overview Fratello
Seiko Tuna Models - Feb 6, 2025

The Monocoque Seiko Tuna Models - A History And Overview

The Seiko Tuna is sacred ground to geeks and a rathole to others. This article, however, is for everyone. The hope is to provide insight into the history of all monocoque Seiko Tuna models, starting with the 1975 reference 6159-7010 and finishing with the SBDX038 and SBBN047 of today. You’ve probably all heard of the […] Visit The Monocoque Seiko Tuna Models - A History And Overview to read the full article.

Seiko Introduces the Credor Locomotive GCCR997 SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Feb 5, 2025

Seiko Introduces the Credor Locomotive GCCR997

Have revived the Credor Locomotive last year with the limited edition GCCR999, Seiko has now added the Gerald Genta-designed sports watch to its regular production lineup. The Credor Locomotive GCCR997 is identical to its limited edition counterpart, save for the dial, which is now dark green with an intricate hexagon pattern. Initial thoughts Having already gotten wind of the Locomotive becoming regular production, the new GCCR997 isn’t a surprise. It is also inevitable given the good response enjoyed by the limited edition, which was well priced, especially for the case and bracelet quality. The honeycomb dial with its novel pattern is a nice touch. Seiko has wisely kept the retail price essentially unchanged over the limited edition – this is about US$500 more expensive – which means the is still good value, and also more accessible. And I’m sure this won’t be the only Locomotive in the catalogue, so expect to see more variants in the future. Hexagon themed The new Locomotive has the same titanium case and bracelet found on last year’s model. The GCCR997 retains the dimensions of the vintage original that was launched in 1978, but with an improved construction and finish. Made of Seiko’s “high-intensity” titanium, the case and bracelet are finished with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces that gleam a little more than usual because the proprietary alloy has greater hardness than the conventional titanium alloys used in watches. The original,...

Introducing – Seiko Adds a new Enamel SPB495 to the Presage Craftsmanship Series Monochrome
Seiko Adds Feb 4, 2025

Introducing – Seiko Adds a new Enamel SPB495 to the Presage Craftsmanship Series

Prospex, King Seiko, 5 Sports and, of course, Presage… There are so many different sub-collections within Seiko’s portfolio but it’s rather easy to understand what the Presage collection stands for; elegance and classicism. This statement is even more meaningful when it comes to the Presage Craftsmanship Series, a collection of watches seen as the best […]

A New Mt. Iwate Dial Arrives in the Grand Seiko SLGH027 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SLGH027 We reached Feb 3, 2025

A New Mt. Iwate Dial Arrives in the Grand Seiko SLGH027

We reached the point long ago where even the most dedicated Grand Seiko fans and collectors could be expected to keep up with the many, many different dial textures. Intricate textured dials are, at least as much as their famous Zaratsu polishing technique and fantastic family of movements, the thing that Grand Seiko has become most well known for during these last several years that have seen the brand grow at an extraordinary pace. I know for me personally, it’s all a little overwhelming, and while I love seeing all of the new textures and colors pop in watches as the collection grows, I remain biased toward one in particular that caught my eye at the beginning of my own interest in the brand. The first Grand Seiko I ever owned had a black “Mt. Iwate” textured dial, and for me it’s still the standard by which I judge all of the others against. That Mt. Iwate texture, to me, is just the right balance of eye catching and incredibly subtle – it can’t be detected at every angle, which is one of my favorite things about it. It’s also historically taken something of a backseat to the “Snowflake” and “Birch” textures, so it appeals to my natural tendency to root for the underdog.  Given my longstanding appreciation for the Mt. Iwate dial, I was happy to see news of the latest Grand Seiko release, the SLGH027, which brings a tweaked version of the Mt. Iwate texture to the Evolution 9 series of watches. The new texture, which appears to have thicker “ridg...

Radial “Mount Iwate” Patterned Dial for the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Grand Seiko’s Feb 3, 2025

Radial “Mount Iwate” Patterned Dial for the Grand Seiko Evolution 9

Grand Seiko’s latest release, the Evolution 9 Hi-Beat 36000 SLGH027 Limited Edition, is all about the textured dial as is typical of the brand. Inspired by the ridges of Mount Iwate, a volcano that’s near Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi workshop, the radial dial motif is more deeply textured than earlier iterations of the “Mount Iwate” pattern. The rest of the watch is typical of the Evolution 9 “SLGH” model – a high-frequency automatic movement inside a Zaratsu-finish case in from Ever-Brilliant steel, a proprietary alloy with superior corrosion resistance and a brighter finish than conventional steel. Initial thoughts Of the many Grand Seiko dials, the new Mount Iwate motif stands out. While the latest dial shares the same radial style as the earlier “Mount Iwate” pattern, found on the Tentagraph SLGC001 amongst others, the dial of the SLGH027 has a deeper texture and more pronounced grooves, giving it an elevated aesthetic that is more striking. With so many variants, Grand Seiko’s textured dials are a little cliche at this point, but there is no denying that the watches are still impressively crafted and offer strong value, rivalling the strongest Swiss competition (except in terms of the bracelet). At US$10,500, the SLGH027 is priced similarly to equivalent prior models. While it is substantially more expensive than the average time-and-date Grand Seiko, the price is justified by the top-of-the-line cal. 9SA5, as well as the excellent case and dial wor...

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Feb 3, 2025

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition

Today, Grand Seiko introduces the SLGH027 “Mountainscape,” a limited-edition watch celebrating the brand’s 65th anniversary. The piece features the automatic Hi-Beat 9SA5 caliber, which debuted in 2020. As part of the Evolution 9 collection, this watch is not retro at all but a modern reference with stunning details. Grand Seiko always has a strong start […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mount Iwate Ice-Blue SLGH027 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mount Iwate Feb 3, 2025

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mount Iwate Ice-Blue SLGH027

Following the introduction of the Evolution 9 collection, with a new generation of mechanical and Spring Drive movements in 2020, Grand Seiko released a watch that will become a hit, the White Birch SLGH005. With its impressive dial, newly designed case and innovative movement, the watch made quite an impression… So much so that it […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Designed For The Outdoors - Featuring G-Shock, Alpina, Seiko, And More Fratello
Alpina Seiko Jan 31, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Designed For The Outdoors - Featuring G-Shock, Alpina, Seiko, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we will explore the world of adventurer’s watches. It’s time to look at timepieces that are best suited to help you out in the great outdoors. “Best suited” can mean a variety of things. Some of the things that come to mind are functionality, comfort, and, of course, sturdiness. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Designed For The Outdoors - Featuring G-Shock, Alpina, Seiko, And More to read the full article.

Introducing: The Bluer And Greener Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Sekki Watches Fratello
Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Sekki Jan 31, 2025

Introducing: The Bluer And Greener Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Sekki Watches

The reinterpreted Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Sekki watches show bluer and greener dials than ever before. These 40mm watches also come in the brand’s Ever-Brilliant Steel for the first time. “GS” calls it a superalloy because it has a whiter sheen and greater corrosion resistance than conventional stainless steel. Both €8,000 watches also feature […] Visit Introducing: The Bluer And Greener Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Sekki Watches to read the full article.

Introducing – Grand Seiko Updates the Heritage 62GS Sekki Collection with the New Rikka SBGH351 and Shubun SBGH353 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Updates Jan 30, 2025

Introducing – Grand Seiko Updates the Heritage 62GS Sekki Collection with the New Rikka SBGH351 and Shubun SBGH353

Once upon a time (in 2019, to be precise), Grand Seiko released a quartet of watches known as the Sekki collection, models inspired by seasonal changes with colourful dials. Issued exclusively in the US and then made available worldwide, a single model dominates the Heritage 62GS Sekki collection, the much-hyped pink-toned SBGA413 Shunbun, closely followed […]

eBay Finds: A Vintage Grand Seiko, a Stunning Waffle Dial from Longines, and a Fun Seiko LCD Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Jan 17, 2025

eBay Finds: A Vintage Grand Seiko, a Stunning Waffle Dial from Longines, and a Fun Seiko LCD

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Seiko LCD Alarm Chronograph  Here’s a neat vintage Seiko LCD alarm chronograph from the 1980’s. Seller says 1985, but the serial number says March 1987. Either way, this is a cool piece. Classic 80’s slim profile, with an unpolished stainless steel case and matching steel Jubilee-ish style Seiko bracelet. The watch is in great shape, and the screen looks like all the segments work. Seller states all the functions work as well. The caseback even has the original sticker still present. Great bit of fun that shouldn’t stress your watch budget.  View auction here Vintage Clebar  Next up is this beautiful vintage Clebar three register chronograph. The 36mm stainless steel case looks unpolished with sharp edges, and a snap on caseback. The silver dial is super clean and has that classic Heuer Carrera look to it. This one features old-style square (rectangular really…) pushers, which is a great look I think. The watch is powered by a manual wind Venus caliber 178 movement that is clean and works well per the seller. You really can’t beat a vintage chronograph like this one. And with the Clebar name instead of Heuer or Longines, the price should remain reasonable.  View ...

Visiting Seiko UK And Witnessing A Seiko Tuna Battery Change Fratello
Seiko UK Jan 6, 2025

Visiting Seiko UK And Witnessing A Seiko Tuna Battery Change

Last month, I had the opportunity to visit the Seiko UK headquarters in Maidenhead. As a die-hard Seiko fan, I’ve always wanted to see what happens here. Does the site outsource much work, or is this a fully functional service center? The answer may surprise you because Seiko UK can handle practically everything when servicing […] Visit Visiting Seiko UK And Witnessing A Seiko Tuna Battery Change to read the full article.

The Seiko Power Design Project Returns in 2025 SJX Watches
Seiko Power Design Project Returns Jan 2, 2025

The Seiko Power Design Project Returns in 2025

Building on the success of the Power Design Project: Incredibly Specialized Watches, an annual design-focused exhibition inaugurated last year, Seiko has just opened the 2025 event Tokyo’s trendy Harajuku district. Open from now till February 16, 2025, this year’s exhibition delves further into combining watchmaking and design in innovative and whimsical ways to create concept watches that are distinct from the brand’s conventional offerings. Amongst the watches designed by six of Seiko’s designers is one conceived for the perfect boiled egg, and even a watch for a vampire that distinguishes between day and night. The “Vampire” watch, distinguished by its red dial and gemstone-accented bezel Among the exhibition’s other notable creations is a “tool watch” for a ninja. Entirely in black, this tells the time in a tactile manner. It’s even paired with a wrap-around strap inspired by the traditional Japanese archery glove. Featuring an all-black aesthetic that evokes the stealth of a ninja. Power Design Project: Incredibly Specialized Watches 2 takes place from December 20, 2024 to February 16, 2025, at Seiko Seed, an exhibition space owned by the watchmaker. It’s open to the public from 11:00 am-8:00 pm daily (with the last admission at 7:45 pm). Admission is free. Seiko Seed Harajuku 1-14-30 Jingumae Shibuya-ku, Tokyo For more, visit seiko-design.com.  

Fratello’s Top 5 Dive Watches Of 2024 - Featuring Omega, Doxa, Seiko, And More Fratello
Omega Doxa Seiko Dec 27, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Dive Watches Of 2024 - Featuring Omega, Doxa, Seiko, And More

Another Friday, another list! It’s the last Friday of the year and, therefore, also the last list of 2024. We could still make plenty of lists about the best watches of 2024, but we decided to go ahead and release one final list looking back at the past 12 months and leave it at that. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Dive Watches Of 2024 - Featuring Omega, Doxa, Seiko, And More to read the full article.