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Results for Lug-to-Lug

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Laurent Ferrier Gallet Tourbillon: detailed photographs to demonstrate good finishing in a watch movement Deployant
Laurent Ferrier Apr 4, 2011

Laurent Ferrier Gallet Tourbillon: detailed photographs to demonstrate good finishing in a watch movement

I wrote about Laurent Ferrier’s Gallet Tourbillon before. See this post for the earlier post. I caught up with Laurent and his crew in Geneva during the recent GTE where he was showing a peek-a-boo dial…which features a fan shaped opening on the dial which opens to reveal a favourite picture…painted by no other thanRead More

Richard Lange Pour le Merite Tourbillon by A. Lange & Sohne – all you need to know Deployant
A. Lange & Sohne all you need Dec 20, 2010

Richard Lange Pour le Merite Tourbillon by A. Lange & Sohne – all you need to know

Hands-on definitive review of the A. Lange & Sohne Richard Lange Pour le Merite Tourbillon. This review was published on 9am GMT 20th December 2010, when the embargo lifted.  A number of global journalists were invited to celebrate the founding of the Lange company on 7th December 2010 in Glashutte with a Press Conference toRead More

Why can’t the watch industry match Apple Watch straps for comfort? Time+Tide
Jan 7, 2021

Why can’t the watch industry match Apple Watch straps for comfort?

Fact: we are stuck in the strap-technology stone age while the world is moving on. Is the 100-year-old technology of the spring bar beautiful nostalgia? Or simply large manufacturers being lazy? We all have a story of that one time, changing a strap to match up that outfit, fiddling with a screwdriver, scratching the lug, … ContinuedThe post Why can’t the watch industry match Apple Watch straps for comfort? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: Split Watches Comes To The U.S. With Its New GMT (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet watches 3 days ago

Introducing: Split Watches Comes To The U.S. With Its New GMT (Live Pics)

What We Know If you haven't heard of the brand Split before, you're likely not alone. The brand has not previously been distributed in the U.S., but it came to my attention when their chronograph, called "In The Skies," launched with a fully luminous case made from a proprietary ceramic-and-polymer fusion called Ceramod+. At $2,053, it was an interesting and fun novelty, and cheaper than the IWC Ceralume Perpetual Calendar (though a vastly different proposition, to be fair). Now that material, sans lumen, is coming to the United States with a new, relatively affordable GMT. But the watches are only a small part of the story for Split. The brand was co-founded by Edward Margulies, the third generation of a prominent family of UK-based Swiss watch distributors. His father, Marcus Margulies, might be known to some as the collector behind one of the most impressive collections of Audemars Piguet watches in history, which formed the basis for much of the AP museum. Edward moved to Switzerland at the age of 19 to train to follow in his footsteps.  While the press release talks about how he spent his life putting on a smile to hide a frown caused by burying trauma for years, his interview in the New York Times reveals something deeper. The reality is that, after decades of struggling with his mental health and taking traditional paths of therapy and antidepressants, his physical health had deteriorated, and he was prescribed fentanyl. "Next thing I know," he said to the New York...

Video Review – A Closer Look at the Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance, and Its Brilliant 12:59 “Show Off” Mode Monochrome
Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance Jun 26, 2026

Video Review – A Closer Look at the Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance, and Its Brilliant 12:59 “Show Off” Mode

The idea of combining the resonance effect and a minute repeater isn’t new to Armin Strom. The independent watchmaker already, back in 2019, presented a technically impressive watch (what else to expect, as everything the brand does is technically impressive), the Masterpiece Minute Repeater Resonance. Regarding pure watchmaking, there was nothing to complain about here. […]

First Look – Breguet Releases 3 new Tourbillon Watches for the 225th Anniversary of its Invention Monochrome
Breguet Releases 3 new Tourbillon Jun 26, 2026

First Look – Breguet Releases 3 new Tourbillon Watches for the 225th Anniversary of its Invention

Precisely 225 years ago on this day (on June 26, 1801, or on 7 Messidor An IX, to use the French Republican calendar in force at the time), Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted the patent for what is, without a doubt, its most famous invention: the tourbillon. Designed to counter the problem of gravity affecting the […]

The Inaugural Buying Time Auction is Officially Open with Proceeds Going to a Worthy Cause Worn & Wound
Ming Jun 15, 2026

The Inaugural Buying Time Auction is Officially Open with Proceeds Going to a Worthy Cause

In 2017, Simon Jeffs, an aero-mechanical engineer, founded Brooklands Watch Company with the help of his son Michael. The inspiration for the brand came from the historic track where British motorsport was born and the world’s first motor racing chronograph was invented in 1907 along with the father-son duo’s mutual love of timepieces. Five years after its founding, Michael tragically passed away from cancer at the incredibly young age of 28. Two years following his death – the year Michael would have turned 30 – his mother, Sandra, launched the 30 for 30 campaign, aiming to raise £30,000 in his memory for charities that had helped them during Michael’s illness. The response was extraordinary, and they went on to raise £132,642. This generosity gave Michael’s family the confidence to think beyond a single year of fundraising and to create a long-term legacy in his honor, which led them to establish the Buying Time auction opening today and running for one month until July 14. The auction is made possible in partnership with the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, who embraced the idea of creating a charitable foundation supported by the watch community. Each of the watches up for sale is brand new, unworn, and generously donated by the brand, maker, or authorized partner exclusively for this auction. Every pound raised will go directly to the organizations’ partner charities, whose applications are reviewed quarterly to ensure every grant is thought...

Recommended Reading: 'Ultimate Collector Watches' From Taschen Offers A Scholarly Approach To Watch Books Hodinkee
Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches Jun 9, 2026

Recommended Reading: 'Ultimate Collector Watches' From Taschen Offers A Scholarly Approach To Watch Books

In two recent conversations, I repeated my frequently used adage: "I can't collect the watches, so I collect the knowledge." This was said when talking to two world-class collectors; one has one of the most complete collections of Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches, and the other has probably the most important collection of Lange, F.P. Journe, and historical watches in the world. Both of them said the same thing, which I'll paraphrase. "I didn't have the money to collect these watches until X years ago, but before that, I was learning." That's why I own a lot of books—even if I probably will never reach those heights—and I'm always looking for more. Knowledge means a lot. Watch books often fall into two categories: either overly esoteric, with a ton of information, or overly broad, without a ton of information but with a lot of nice pictures. I have a bit of each, but I find myself returning to the former most often. You can glean a lot of information from books like AP's "20th Century Complicated Watches" or Patek Philippe's two-volume museum collection tomes, but you only need them once or twice a year. My books on Rolex Day-Dates or Khanjar Daytonas are awesome, but a bit less visited after the first pass. Dr. Helmut Crott's "The Dial" is maybe the most important book on my shelf, but sometimes more information than I want to sit and mindlessly digest. Taschen's new two-volume offering, "Ultimate Collectors Watches" by Charlotte and Peter Fiell, bridges the g...

Dispatch: A Visit to Philippe Dufour's Workshop, Twelve Years Since Our Last Hodinkee
Jun 3, 2026

Dispatch: A Visit to Philippe Dufour's Workshop, Twelve Years Since Our Last

It's been some time since we visited Philippe Dufour's workshop—at least officially. I'm not sure if my colleagues have stopped in before, which wouldn't surprise me. Once you know Dufour, stopping by his workshop in Le Solliat becomes much more informal. But until two weeks ago, I actually hadn't stepped foot inside the old building that was once his kids' schoolhouse and that has become his workshop.  Back in 2013, Ben stopped by during the "Road to Basel" series, but a lot has changed since then. Or has it? Despite being a watchmaker for over 59 years now, all Philippe Dufour seems to want to do is make watches. And where better to do it than the famed "Valley of Complications"?  When we last left him, Ben noted that he had just delivered the last of his Simplicities, after about 200 watches. "He will never make another," said Ben, and that Dufour was working on a more complicated follow-up. Well, since then, he certainly has delivered more Simplicities, including one with an aventurine dial that was auctioned for charity, and there are still more watches on the bench. And it's not just him at the workshop; his daughter Danièla is also working away as well. Tools on the display cases inside Philippe Dufour's workshop and a selection of pocket watches  In 2022, I traveled to Switzerland and the Vallée de Joux for the first time to research and photograph a story on the watchmaker Charles-Henri Meylan. I immediately fell in love with the place. The three-dimensiona...

Gallet Returns And Immediately Wants To Leave Again Fratello
Breitling Jun 2, 2026

Gallet Returns And Immediately Wants To Leave Again

Two centuries after its founding in 1826, Gallet returns — finally. And I don’t mean “finally after a hundred years,” but “finally after all the teasing.” The marque that’s now part of House of Brands, which also includes Breitling and Universal Genève, is back, but don’t run to the Breitling dealer right away to see […] Visit Gallet Returns And Immediately Wants To Leave Again to read the full article.

Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In St. Louis Hodinkee
May 27, 2026

Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In St. Louis

The Horological Society of New York's award-winning classes are on the road again! HSNY is visiting St. Louis on July 18 and 19, 2026, hosted by RedBar St. Louis. At HSNY's Horological Education classes, students discover what actually makes a watch tick under the guidance of HSNY's staff of professional watchmakers. Students work on a mechanical watch movement, studying the gear train, winding and setting mechanisms, and escapement. The weekend half-day classes cover everything taught during the individual evening classes held in New York. Enrollment is now open for the classes, and we look forward to seeing you there! HODINKEE is a sponsor of the Horological Society of New York.

WatchIt! Watch Fair To Return Next Month Fratello
May 24, 2026

WatchIt! Watch Fair To Return Next Month

The WatchIt! Watch Fair will return next month for its fifth edition, presented by 12&60. This one-day event brings watch lovers together in a friendly, relaxed setting. You can view, handle, discuss, and buy watches without pressure. More importantly, you can do it face-to-face with the people behind the brands. As a result, the atmosphere […] Visit WatchIt! Watch Fair To Return Next Month to read the full article.

Does Cartier’s Tank Américaine Live Up To The Legacy? (Review) WatchAdvice
Cartier s Tank Américaine Live May 22, 2026

Does Cartier’s Tank Américaine Live Up To The Legacy? (Review)

The short answer: Yes! The Cartier Tank Américaine is a standout watch that looks and feels a lot more versatile than it lets on. Let’s find out why! What We Love: A versatile yet elegant design A sportier remix of a legendary icon Wears comfortably on the leather strap What We Don’t: Readability suffers in the first and third quarters The crown is small and fiddly Where’s the display caseback? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 I think that, since I began working at WatchAdvice, my opinion on Cartier has changed the least. I’d already heard so much about it from every corner of culture; rap songs and rom-coms sing equal praise of the Parisian powerhouse. So, when this opportunity came along, it simply allowed me to get closer to a brand I had already learned to appreciate. With closeness, though, comes closer scrutiny. Cartier bears the weight of a rich legacy on its shoulders, and even the smallest deviation can have Cartier fans questioning their loyalty. Its model lines, in both jewellery and watchmaking, have become so iconic that remixing them is a massive risk. Getting it wrong, depending on who you ask, is intolerable. These are the stakes Cartier faces with the Tank Américaine. How could they possibly change the formula of such a universally popular watch collection while preserving the original DNA? That’s what I aimed to find out when I took the Tank Américaine for a spin some time ago...

First Look – The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph in Navy Blue Monochrome
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic May 12, 2026

First Look – The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph in Navy Blue

Rado’s foray into the world of dive watches in 1962 resulted in the Captain Cook, a somewhat quirky watch that didn’t emulate the rugged tool watches populating the underwater scene. Defined by its less utilitarian character, the Captain Cook had a compact 35mm case, an inward-sloping bezel, a domed acrylic crystal, a pivoting anchor at […]

Introducing: The Patek Philippe 5322G Brings A More Modern-Sized And Styled Chiming Alarm Function To The Catalog (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe 5322G Brings Apr 28, 2026

Introducing: The Patek Philippe 5322G Brings A More Modern-Sized And Styled Chiming Alarm Function To The Catalog (Live Pics)

What We Know Unveiled as part of a slew of new releases for Watches and Wonders 2026, the Patek Philippe 5322G offers a chiming 24-hour alarm complication in a modern case and design, with a new movement and a slightly smaller size than the discontinued model it replaces. The watch is housed in a white gold 41mm Calatrava case that's 12.22mm thick and features hollowed-out lugs, the brand's signature 'Clous de Paris' or "hobnail" guilloché pattern on the case middle, and a single pusher at 2 o'clock. The alarm is programmed through the pusher, and it can be set via the crown in the second position, which the brand says works "intuitively."  With a water resistance of 30 meters, Patek says the new 5322G is the only water-resistant chiming watch in the current collection. The new model replaces the Ref. 5520 Pilot Alarm Travel Time, which debuted in 2019 and was inspired by an historical aviator watch in the Patek museum in Geneva. Photo courtesy Patek Philippe. The model continues Patek's modern Calatrava style with a textured, lacquered dial in green or blue. The applied Arabic numerals and white-gold, syringe-style hands are both filled with luminescent material, adding to the contemporary feel. A hand display date sits at 6 o'clock, while the double-window aperture of the alarm function sits above the handset at 12 o'clock. Powering the 5322G is the new self-winding AL 30-660 S C caliber that chimes the alarm with a single hammer striking a classic gong around the case...

It’s Complicated To Choose: Lex’s Three Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases Fratello
Apr 25, 2026

It’s Complicated To Choose: Lex’s Three Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases

This year, I wasn’t looking for something I could own. This year’s Watches and Wonders, I was ready to be amazed, surprised, and blown away by impressive stuff. I was in the mood for complications, not retro-chic dress watches or buffed-up icons. Well, the salon didn’t disappoint, and the participating brands made it complicated for […] Visit It’s Complicated To Choose: Lex’s Three Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases to read the full article.

First Look – The New Silver-Toned Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236P Monochrome
Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236P Apr 22, 2026

First Look – The New Silver-Toned Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236P

Widely regarded as a technical and aesthetic masterpiece, Patek Philippe’s In-Line Perpetual Calendar returned in grand form at Watches & Wonders this year, alongside dozens of other new watches, in platinum with a silver dial. Displaying the day, date and month on a single line in a panoramic aperture at noon, few perpetual calendars can […]

Introducing – New Vacheron Constantin Tribute to Great Civilisations, Inspired by Masterpieces from the Louvre Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Tribute Apr 16, 2026

Introducing – New Vacheron Constantin Tribute to Great Civilisations, Inspired by Masterpieces from the Louvre

Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations series turns the Louvre’s ancient masterpieces into wearable miniature artworks, blending high watchmaking with some of the Maison’s most demanding decorative crafts. Limited to 15 pieces each, the four watches use the calibre 2460 G4/2, a hand-finished automatic movement with peripheral displays that frees the dial for […]

The Cartier Roadster Comes Roaring Back: It’s Ready To Roll In Two Sizes Fratello
Cartier Roadster Comes Roaring Back Apr 13, 2026

The Cartier Roadster Comes Roaring Back: It’s Ready To Roll In Two Sizes

Sometimes, a watch release makes you feel old. The Cartier Roadster now comes roaring back, but I couldn’t help but think it hadn’t been that long since it debuted. Well, it turns out the launch of the first Roadster was 24 years ago. Anyway, Cartier has just announced a revised collection that maintains the automotive-inspired […] Visit The Cartier Roadster Comes Roaring Back: It’s Ready To Roll In Two Sizes to read the full article.