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Why lug-to-lug matters more than diameter (and how to actually pick a watch that fits)

Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

In-Depth: The Definitive Guide to the A. Lange & Söhne Handwerkskunst SJX Watches
Casio n Jun 7, 2020

In-Depth: The Definitive Guide to the A. Lange & Söhne Handwerkskunst

When Walter Lange celebrated his 90th birthday in 2014, A. Lange & Söhne marked the occasion with a short interview. Asked how he would define the brand, the great-grandson of Ferdinand Adolph Lange quoted the late Günter Blümlein: “A Lange watch is a fusion of the arts… [and] the unique technology and artisanship to which we are committed.” Lange has created many special watches since it was re-established in 1994, but one family of timepieces embodies Blümlein’s description – Handwerkskunst. A line of limited-edition watches, Handwerkskunst – which translates as “craftsmanship” – is defined by traditional artistic techniques of decoration and exemplary hand-finish, a combination that is truly a “fusion of the arts”. The goal of this article is to provide the context behind the creation of the Handwerkskunst series, and to detail the individual models. The focus will be on the details of each model, how they differ from their standard counterparts, and the realised prices at auction – livened up by my personal experience and opinion. Five of the eight Handwerkskunst models launched to date, without the Richard Lange Pour le Merite, Cabaret Tourbillon, and Datograph Why handwerkskunst? I am often asked why I love Lange watches. It’s a long answer, but one reason goes beyond the watch themselves – it is the brand’s determination to preserve and develop the artisanal crafts in Saxony. In fact, Lange is something of a hub for artisans in the ...

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, The World’s Thinnest Watch: Shaving Microns To Make Millionths Quill & Pad
Bulgari Jun 7, 2020

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, The World’s Thinnest Watch: Shaving Microns To Make Millionths

Talking about exceptionally thin mechanics leads us to world-record-holding thin watches, which inevitably leads to Piaget. These days constantly in battle with Bulgari for thinness world records, Piaget has recently released the production version of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, which now holds the record for thinness at just 2 mm. How is this even possible?

VIDEO: Two precious metal Grand Seiko First references to celebrate the 60th anniversary Time+Tide
Grand Seiko First references Jun 5, 2020

VIDEO: Two precious metal Grand Seiko First references to celebrate the 60th anniversary

Grand Seiko are marking the 60th anniversary of their first watch with a small collection of dress watches that are based on the first ever watches to be made with Grand Seiko on the dial. These classically styled time-only dress watches set the foundation for what Grand Seiko are becoming known for today; a knack … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Two precious metal Grand Seiko First references to celebrate the 60th anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How long have YOU got left to live? The ‘death watch’ tells you and starts the countdown. Weirdly, that’s a positive thing… Time+Tide
May 30, 2020

How long have YOU got left to live? The ‘death watch’ tells you and starts the countdown. Weirdly, that’s a positive thing…

Why are vampires invariably such jaded fellows? I reckon immortality has something to do with it. Sure, the wild hunger to feast on human blood must prove an inconvenient business at the best of times. And, yes, coffins make for uncomfortable beds. But I suspect the world-weary demeanour of the undead stems mainly from their … ContinuedThe post How long have YOU got left to live? The ‘death watch’ tells you and starts the countdown. Weirdly, that’s a positive thing… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Geneva Watch Days to Take Place August 2020 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux H Moser & Cie May 28, 2020

Geneva Watch Days to Take Place August 2020

First scheduled for April 2020 to coincide with the twin events Baselworld and Watches & Wonders – how the world of watch fairs changed since then – Geneva Watch Days was postponed to August 2020 after life was halted by the COVID-19 pandemic. But now the event has been confirmed for late August 2020, making it the only “multi-brand watch event in Switzerland” according to its organisers. With eight brands taking part, and perhaps more to come, Geneva Watch Days will be made up of a series of separate events across Geneva – with the central reception desk at the lakeside Four Seasons Hotel – with each brand essentially doing its own thing. Only a handful of evening events will see all the attendees gather, but only as far as Swiss government’s public health regulations allow. But in many respects the event aims to be similar to Baselworld, being catered for the trade – namely retailers and press – rather than the public. Visitors have to register in advance, as well as make appointments with brands to see the latest watches. Bulgari, Breitling, De Bethune, Gerald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie., MB&F;, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk have all confirmed their participation at Geneva Watch Days. The event will take place August 26-29, 2020, at various locations across Geneva. To register as an attendee, visit Gva-watch-days.com.  

Mythbusting four Rolex myths, from The Great Escape, to the English Channel to British Columbia Time+Tide
Rolex myths from May 26, 2020

Mythbusting four Rolex myths, from The Great Escape, to the English Channel to British Columbia

“When the legend becomes fact, print the legend.” That line - from The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance, the classic western starring John Wayne and James Stewart - nails the way in which some tales become impossible to resist. Certain details might prove apocryphal. Slabs of the narrative turn out to be completely made up. But … ContinuedThe post Mythbusting four Rolex myths, from The Great Escape, to the English Channel to British Columbia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This is the world’s most inspiring watch. It costs $150 and belongs to “the scariest Navy SEAL imaginable” Time+Tide
May 25, 2020

This is the world’s most inspiring watch. It costs $150 and belongs to “the scariest Navy SEAL imaginable”

There’s a watch out there that could genuinely change your life. It could make you happier, healthier and more successful. It could help you regain a sense of control in these messed-up times and add some much-needed pep to your step. The best part? You can pick one up here (no longer available) for the … ContinuedThe post This is the world’s most inspiring watch. It costs $150 and belongs to “the scariest Navy SEAL imaginable” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Eight Collectors of Independent Watchmaking to Follow on Instagram SJX Watches
F.P. Journe tourbillon Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain May 25, 2020

Eight Collectors of Independent Watchmaking to Follow on Instagram

While the vast majority of watch content on Instagram is predictable and repetitive – hello Nautilus with baguette gemstone bezel and Submariner “Hulk” –  there are a couple of collectors with interesting watches who share their collections on the picture-sharing app. The most interesting for me are the independent-watchmaking enthusiasts. Most own watches that well known and regarded as landmarks in the genre – Philippe Dufour Simplicity, F.P. Journe tourbillon, Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain, and the like – but many also have watches further off the beaten track, like Keaton Myrick’s 1 in 30 or the Bexei grande sonnerie. Here are a few independent-watchmaking collectors who are worth a follow. @igwatchlover – A collector based on Southeast Asia, Igwatchlover features his own watches, as well as occasionally watches owned by his friends – who are also accomplished collectors. Amongst the watches that can be found on his account is the unique and elaborate Voutilainen Starry Night Vine, and the Vox Vinum grande sonnerie by Aaron Becsei, and the one-off, regulator-dial minute repeater by Voutilainen. And he also features a good number of notable complicated watches from the 1990s, which are overlooked today but often just as interesting as the latest creations. @horoptimist – A longtime collector who only started his Instagram account recently, Horoptimist is based in Asia but has managed to visit several independent watchmakers in their home count...

MICRO MONDAYS: Three key models that are on the way to making Halios a household(ish) name Time+Tide
Halios May 24, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Three key models that are on the way to making Halios a household(ish) name

Monday is once again upon us, and here in Melbourne, Australia that means we’re oh so close to things starting to crawl back to normality, with pubs and restaurants set to open their doors for the first time in nearly three months, starting next week. Those with school age children are also painfully aware that … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Three key models that are on the way to making Halios a household(ish) name appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

From Hemingway’s Rolex to Murakami’s vintage Heuer - the 7 best watch quotes from literature Time+Tide
Breguet pocket watch May 23, 2020

From Hemingway’s Rolex to Murakami’s vintage Heuer - the 7 best watch quotes from literature

Whether it’s the Breguet pocket watch that belongs to the dastardly Baron Danglars in The Count of Monte Cristo or the orange-dialled Doxa worn by Dirk Pitt in Clive Cussler’s novels, the literary world is full of watches. Sometimes they’re mentioned as passing details to flesh out a character’s appearance. Sometimes a character’s wristwear comes … ContinuedThe post From Hemingway’s Rolex to Murakami’s vintage Heuer – the 7 best watch quotes from literature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Baselworld to be Replaced by Swiss Watch Week SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Chanel Chopard May 22, 2020

Business News: Baselworld to be Replaced by Swiss Watch Week

With Baselworld all but finished in name – with the COVID-19 pandemic having served as the catalyst for its demise – its organiser has already lined up a potential replacement, according to Swiss newspaper Handelzeitung. Events company MCH Group, which owns Baselworld and Art Basel, registered the trademark “Swiss Watch Week” in late January 2020, perhaps an indication its management already knew that Baselworld was untenable. Departing Basel, the city that the namesake watch fair had called home for decades is seen as crucial to escape the baggage and bad publicity that has dogged Baselworld. A good part of the criticism levelled at the fair concerns the opportunistic pricing imposed by restaurants, hotels, and other accommodation during the fair. The result was a slow burn that culminated in the end of Baselworld. A scene never to be seen again – the halls of Messe Basel packed with watch brands. Photo – Baselworld Once the world’s largest watch and jewellery fair, Baselworld was hit by a gradually accelerating string of departures, starting in 2018 with industry giant Swatch Group – owner of brands like Omega, Longines, and Tissot – citing the exorbitant cost of exhibiting and other city-related expenses. Swatch was followed by Seiko and others in 2019. But the fatal blow arrived in April 2020, when the fair’s biggest exhibitors – Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard, and Tudor – pulled out and announced a move to a new, yet-to-be-named fair in...

The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Jumbo May 18, 2020

The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the most well-known watches in the world, but there are some references within the family that remain relatively undiscovered. While they are extremely rare, Royal Oaks with stone dials are as beautiful as you would imagine from the Le Brassus-based brand, with lapis lazuli and various other … ContinuedThe post The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Phillips to Offer F.P. Journe Souscription Tourbillon and Resonance SJX Watches
Patek Philippe watches from May 18, 2020

Phillips to Offer F.P. Journe Souscription Tourbillon and Resonance

Postponed from its usual mid-May date to end-June, Phillips’ spring watch auction is Geneva is nonetheless the full works, with 214 lots on offer, including the four spectacular Patek Philippe watches from the collection of Jean-Claude Biver, including a ref. 1518 “pink on pink” and a second-series ref. 2499. Also amongst the offerings at the Geneva Watch Auction XI are two important examples of contemporary watchmaking – a pair of F.P. Journe souscription watches consigned by the original owner – Lorenz Bäumer. A jeweller whose workshop is on the storied Place Vendome in Paris, Mr Bäumer is perhaps best known for crafted the tiara worn by Charlene Wittstock when the former Olympic swimmer wed Prince Albert II of Monaco in 2011. But Mr Bäumer is also a watch aficionado who met François-Paul Journe via a mutual friend. Mr Journe had then decided to launch his own brand by taking inspiration from Abraham-Louis Breguet, who had offered clients the opportunity to purchase a newly-developed, fairly-affordable watch by first putting down a deposit – thus “subscribing” to the offer. The jeweller became a “subscriber” and paid the down payment for a Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite “Souscription”, subsequently receiving the watch numbered “14/20” on the dial. A year later, Mr Bäumer was approached once again to “subscribe” for the new Chronomètre à Resonance “Souscription”. He took up the offer, and again got the watch number “14”....

Coronavirus projected to wipe out 60 ‘Swiss Made’ watch brands, while downturn surpasses Quartz Crisis and GFC Time+Tide
May 13, 2020

Coronavirus projected to wipe out 60 ‘Swiss Made’ watch brands, while downturn surpasses Quartz Crisis and GFC

Coronavirus has surpassed all previous crisis’ in terms of its negative impact on the Swiss watchmaking industry, with a 25 per cent downturn anticipated for 2020, according to a report by Bank Vontobel. This is worse than the Quartz Crisis, which saw a 15 per cent decline, and the 22 per cent downturn in the … ContinuedThe post Coronavirus projected to wipe out 60 ‘Swiss Made’ watch brands, while downturn surpasses Quartz Crisis and GFC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The New Blacklist, Part 1: The best new all-black watches, from around $250 to over $200,000 Time+Tide
Reservoir Dogs will know what May 11, 2020

The New Blacklist, Part 1: The best new all-black watches, from around $250 to over $200,000

Black, noir, sable, stygian … whatever name you wish to call it, there can be no debate – black itself is always cooler than whatever is “the new black”. Anyone who’s seen Tarantino’s 1992 cult classic Reservoir Dogs will know what I mean. And anything that is painted black instantly becomes far, far cooler. Henry … ContinuedThe post The New Blacklist, Part 1: The best new all-black watches, from around $250 to over $200,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: All aboard the rollercoaster week that was, ride with us from the ecstasy to the agony Time+Tide
Casio nally … ContinuedThe post May 7, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: All aboard the rollercoaster week that was, ride with us from the ecstasy to the agony

It’s been a colourful, diverse, emotional rollercoaster of a week in the world, and at Time+Tide. This no doubt has a lot to do with the fact that most of us, wherever we are, have ticked over 50 days in lockdown. We are no exception, and have continued working remotely from our homes, and occasionally … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: All aboard the rollercoaster week that was, ride with us from the ecstasy to the agony appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Hugh flips his Reverso to the family crest side on the weekends, and the reason is interesting… Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso May 6, 2020

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Hugh flips his Reverso to the family crest side on the weekends, and the reason is interesting…

Hugh has told the story of his customised Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso on Time+Tide before. The tale had such an enthusiastic response from fellow Reverso wearers keen to have their own crests engraved on their watches that we invited Hugh back to tell it again on camera. The appeal of the Reverso is manifold. There is the … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Hugh flips his Reverso to the family crest side on the weekends, and the reason is interesting… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Undone have released their first ladies watch, the Urban Killy 34mm, and it may be a $330AUD key to your next spousal approval Time+Tide
May 5, 2020

Undone have released their first ladies watch, the Urban Killy 34mm, and it may be a $330AUD key to your next spousal approval

Spousal approval for watch purchases is a thing. Plain and simple. It’s also, we should add to be responsible, the sign of a healthy and balanced relationship. You want a new watch? You’re going to draw from shared funds to buy it? It’s right and fair that you get the green light from your partner … ContinuedThe post Undone have released their first ladies watch, the Urban Killy 34mm, and it may be a $330AUD key to your next spousal approval appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Connected Watch Generation 3, the first smart watch that feels - and looks - like a real watch Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected Watch Generation 3 May 4, 2020

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Connected Watch Generation 3, the first smart watch that feels - and looks - like a real watch

Editor’s note: Watchmaking is founded on incremental progress. The slow accumulation of applied knowledge that produces a better and better product with each passing year. That is exactly what TAG Heuer have achieved with their latest generation Connected Watch, offering the most optimised blend of Swiss luxury and Silicon Valley tech that we have seen … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Connected Watch Generation 3, the first smart watch that feels – and looks – like a real watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117, a watch guaranteed to last for the full term of your natural life Time+Tide
Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117 May 4, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117, a watch guaranteed to last for the full term of your natural life

We often hear that mechanical watches last forever when given the love and attention they require. That’s part of the reason why they can command such high price tags, and even more in the long run when you factor in a service every five years, give or take. But really, we all know that a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117, a watch guaranteed to last for the full term of your natural life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hermès Arceau Cheval Cosmique: Honest-To-Goodness Design That Increases Desire By Exciting The Eye Quill & Pad
Hermes May 3, 2020

Hermès Arceau Cheval Cosmique: Honest-To-Goodness Design That Increases Desire By Exciting The Eye

The Hermès Arceau Cheval Cosmique comes in two limited-edition designs and derives from the Cheval Cosmique design found on other Hermès objects. Both prominently feature the hand-engraved white gold cosmic horse, which takes the artisan almost a week to complete, and artist Gianpaolo Pagni's signature squiggles. For Joshua Munchow it's all about the art and the contrasts.