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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases Time+Tide
Apr 16, 2023

How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases

Lion tamer, Professor of Advanced Mathematics, Alaskan crab fisherman… Truth be told there are many jobs that I’d be really, really bad at. But another profession where I’d also fail abysmally would be working as a buyer for a multi-brand watch retailer. The reason I’m aware of this additional shortcoming is due to my experience … ContinuedThe post How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Andy Richter shares the painful story of how his Rolex, gifted to him by Conan O’Brien, was stolen Time+Tide
Rolex gifted Apr 11, 2023

Andy Richter shares the painful story of how his Rolex, gifted to him by Conan O’Brien, was stolen

Watch theft has unfortunately become a dark cloud over the watch world of late. There’s been a noticeable rise in these robberies in recent years and, due to rising concerns, it has definitely had an impact on how and where people wear their watches.  One such victim of this crime was Andy Richter – the … ContinuedThe post Andy Richter shares the painful story of how his Rolex, gifted to him by Conan O’Brien, was stolen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Farer Adds a Trio of New 36mm GMTs to the Lander Family Worn & Wound
Farer Adds Apr 10, 2023

Farer Adds a Trio of New 36mm GMTs to the Lander Family

If you’ve been interested in Farer’s Lander GMT (which they tell us is their most popular watch…ever) but felt it was just a bit too big, you’ll want to check out the brand’s latest release. The new 36mm GMT collection takes the Lander aesthetic and shrinks it, making for some of the most compact automatic GMTs on the market. It was only a few months ago that the Lorca GMT had us wondering why there weren’t more smaller GMT equipped watches on the market, and now we have a sudden influx. It’s a good time to be a GMT fan, and now there are a selection of colorful options from across the pond.  The premise here is fairly simple. These new watches share the same basic design as the Lander, with a trio of distinct colorways. Unlike most Farer releases, which frequently have dramatic differences in hand-sets, hour markers, and dial textures within a single collection, these three watches are all very much “Landers” with the same numeral and hand design.  The three colors include the much admired sea green, seen in what Farer is calling the Lander IV, or the Lander Classic, This watch has the same sunburst blue/green color that caught the attention of many watch enthusiasts in Farer’s early days, and set a tone for what to expect in terms of creative color combinations. The sea green dial is offset with a bright red GMT hand and an orange seconds hand, along with a white outer minute track.  The next color in the new collection is Sea Coast, with a dial th...

Vacheron Constantin Adds a Retrograde Date Complication to the Overseas Collection Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Adds Apr 4, 2023

Vacheron Constantin Adds a Retrograde Date Complication to the Overseas Collection

Last year’s big release from Vacheron Constantin, the reintroduction of the legendary 222, sparked all kinds of speculation that we’d get another variant of that sports watch at this year’s Watches & Wonders. Maybe one in steel? Or with new complications? As it turns out, we didn’t get a 222 of any kind this year, but VC paid respect to its contemporary integrated bracelet sports watch, a watch whose lineage can be traced back directly to the 222, by adding a complication that is deeply tied to the brand’s identity, a retrograde date display. It’s a first for the Overseas collection, which is itself kind of surprising. It’s one of those watches you can’t quite believe didn’t exist before now, and now that it’s here, it feels that much more well integrated with the rest of the collection.  The new Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date features the same 41mm steel case profile that the brand has been using since the collection was relaunched in 2016. The Overseas, while pre-dating the hysteria for integrated bracelet sports watches by many years (the line was introduced in 1996) was part of a later group of integrated bracelet watches to really catch fire with collectors in the recent boom, following the Royal Oak and Nautilus, but ahead of watches like the newer Alpine Eagle from Chopard. It has a character that is distinct from its competitors, and is uniquely Vacheron, dominated by a complex notched bezel and less intense case geometry. The Overseas, mo...

The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks Mar 27, 2023

The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case

The new Tudor Black Bay 54 takes its inspiration from the 1954 reference 7922. Its 37mm case offers a great gender netural option for accurate vintage vibes. The steel bracelet is fitted with Tudor’s T-fit clasp. For thousands of watch collectors, the introduction of the Black Bay 58 was a phenomenal release that turned even … ContinuedThe post The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Furlan Marri Adds a Trio of Sector Dial Three-Handers to their Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Adds Mar 23, 2023

Furlan Marri Adds a Trio of Sector Dial Three-Handers to their Permanent Collection

You might recall that when Blake Buettner brought us news of Furlan Marri’s very first fully mechanical watch (after the success of their popular meca-quartz chronograph that we still can’t believe ever sold for under $500 during the crowdfunding campaign) he mentioned that the limited production black dialed three hander he had in for review would be followed up by a trio of models in the brand’s permanent collection. That was in June of 2022, and at long last, those watches are here. These three new references use the same platform as the previously issued “Black Sector” 2116-A, but in an array of colors that give the watch a new impact.  The new dials, Salmon Sector, Grey Sector, and White Sector, have been given reference numbers 2154-A, 2161-A, and 2145-A, respectively. While the Grey Sector has what Furlan Marri refers to as a double printed dial, the white and salmon versions both have applied baton hour markers, and all references have a fine texture applied to the dial. The Breguet style numerals at the cardinal positions have become a hallmark of sorts for Furlan Marri, and those remain on all three variants. Dial text is minimal (just the Furlan Marri wordmark and the reference number discreetly out of the way between 4 and 5), the sector layout identical to the black version from last year. Fans of aggressive symmetry will be quite pleased, I think.  An area where Furlan Marri has excelled since the launch of that first chronograph back in 2021 is i...

Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed Time+Tide
Mar 21, 2023

Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed

I do not know about you guys, but I watch a fair bit of television and with so many shows and streaming platforms there is more content than ever before. But, whilst juggling all the different plot lines and narratives, nothing ticks me off more, at least in regard to TV, then when a series … ContinuedThe post Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tissot Adds a Blue Panda Dial to the PRX Chronograph Lineup, Plus a Rubber Strap for the PRX Powermatic 80 is Finally Here Worn & Wound
Tissot Adds Mar 2, 2023

Tissot Adds a Blue Panda Dial to the PRX Chronograph Lineup, Plus a Rubber Strap for the PRX Powermatic 80 is Finally Here

Readers, we’re here. Watches & Wonders is later this month, which means we are fully entrenched in new release season. We’ve seen some big news come across our desks since the beginning of the year, but if recent patterns hold, we can expect a flurry of activity from brands that do not participate in the year’s biggest trade show showing off their first round of novelties in the weeks ahead, likely in an attempt to bring eyeballs to their new watches before the world turns its attention once again to what’s happening in those cavernous Palexpo halls. Swatch Group brands are part of the watch world that takes a pass on Watches & Wonders, so we’ve been seeing an uptick in activity recently from group brands in the way of new product announcements. We already covered news of one Tissot new release this week, and now we have another in the PRX family.   The PRX line has quickly become a centerpiece of the larger Tissot catalog. These are integrated bracelet sports watches that are affordably priced, have an attractive 1970s aesthetic, and have surprisingly accomplished finishing when examined in person. The PRX chronograph, in particular, has struck a chord with collectors, and has to this point been released in a handful of attractive, but traditional, colorways, while the three hand variants of the PRX offer slightly more variety.  The new chronograph introduced recently by Tissot is a striking blue panda configuration, with a silver dial and dark blue subdials ...

Introducing Quick Release: A New Section of Worn & Wound Dedicated to a Wider Variety of Watches, Gear, Drops, and Deals Worn & Wound
Casio nal deals just Mar 1, 2023

Introducing Quick Release: A New Section of Worn & Wound Dedicated to a Wider Variety of Watches, Gear, Drops, and Deals

Each and every day, somewhere around the world there’s a new watch dropping, product deal running, or event being hosted to celebrate the watches and gear we love. The folks who brought you Worn & Wound are launching a new service dedicated to discovering and delivering daily news, drops, event announcements, and deals on a wider variety of watches and gear. This new section of the site is purposefully designated for brands to sponsor coverage of their interesting and unique products. This section, called Quick Release, becomes a bulletin board for our partners to showcase their latest product drops, limited deals and promotions, event announcements, and more. Our commitment to our readers is that we’ll curate a fun mixture of watches you might otherwise never be exposed to, along with the gear and everyday carry (EDC) brands we love. Once a day, you can expect something fresh, distinctive, or informative. We’ll be working with multiple brands across watches and gear to help tell their stories and elevate the products you might not have come across just yet. Quick Release is all about fun, fast product stories that are sure to delight day in and day out, with occasional deals just for our readers and followers. Subscribe to the weekly Quick Release newsletter to get deals delivered to your inbox and follow Quick Release on Instagram. LAUNCH QUICK RELEASE The post Introducing Quick Release: A New Section of Worn & Wound Dedicated to a Wider Variety of Watches, Gear, D...

IWC’s Portofino Collection Gets a New Complete Calendar to Complement Last Year’s Perpetual Worn & Wound
IWC s Portofino Collection Gets Feb 28, 2023

IWC’s Portofino Collection Gets a New Complete Calendar to Complement Last Year’s Perpetual

Toward the tail end of 2022, IWC quietly introduced a new Portofino perpetual calendar (in gold and stainless steel) and it immediately caught our attention. I mean, it’s kind of an objectively beautiful watch, with an elegantly executed complication that we’re all quite fond of, and the fact IWC is making them in steel is really just icing on the perpetual calendar cake. Still, at $24,000, the steel version isn’t exactly anyone’s definition of affordable, even if we’re using imaginary money. So we were even more surprised to learn that IWC has once again sprung a very attractive calendar watch on us in a non-precious metal, still in the Portofino collection but with a different calendar complication. The new Portofino Complete Calendar shares an aesthetic with its perpetual big brother, but is less than half the price. It requires more adjustment from the user, but it’s still a classic calendar with a ton of charm.  First things first, the Portofino seems to be hitting a newfound stride with these calendar watches. This has always been a solid IWC collection, if a little under the radar compared to the brand’s sportier offerings. But the Portofino speaks to the broad range of styles that IWC excels in. These are traditional dress watches, which are now increasingly outfitted with traditional complications based around IWC’s solid and reliable watchmaking. In terms of aesthetics, you’d be hard pressed to identify a distinguishing feature in these watches...

Return To Form: Seiko Introduces an Ensemble of 36mm Field Watches with New Addition to 5 Sports Collection Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Feb 24, 2023

Return To Form: Seiko Introduces an Ensemble of 36mm Field Watches with New Addition to 5 Sports Collection

Given the endless amount of watches Seiko offers throughout their various collections and sub-collections, there’s a sure-fire chance that there’s a Seiko for you. But on the rare occasion there isn’t a Seiko that checks all the boxes, then all I can say is, just give it some time, because Seiko has a knack for giving us what we want if we’re patient enough. Whether it’s a different dial color for a particular reference, a change in date window placement (or window shape), or an affordable (Dive) GMT, Seiko has pretty much answered the bell, making the exact watch we’ve described thoroughly in the Instagram comments of a watch that jussssst missed the mark. The newly announced Seiko 5 Sports Mid-Field Collection follows this exact theme. The current line of field watches within the Seiko 5 Sports catalog include a wide variety of dial colors and variations. However as currently presented, every model within that range comes with a stainless steel case that hovers a touch north of 39mm in width. That’s not a slight to this particular model by any means. It’s a simple, straightforward field watch that has a retail sticker that no one can really argue with. I currently own our Worn & Wound 10th year anniversary limited edition with Seiko that uses this exact case and dial platform. My only nit that I have to pick with the watch is that I wish it came in a more compact package. And then yet again, Seiko answered the call, as if they had been reading my mind thi...

Clowning around: How Konstantin Chaykin put a smile on the dial to invent the Joker, a truly original watch design Time+Tide
Konstantin Chaykin Feb 5, 2023

Clowning around: How Konstantin Chaykin put a smile on the dial to invent the Joker, a truly original watch design

Editor’s note: This story appeared in the fourth issue of NOW, the T+T Watch Buying Guide and gives you a taste of the sort of the features you can expect in our print magazine. Pick up the latest issue now to check out the top 207 releases of the last six months In 2017, Russian … ContinuedThe post Clowning around: How Konstantin Chaykin put a smile on the dial to invent the Joker, a truly original watch design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen’s Latest Pair of Divers Pay Tribute to Classic Promasters Worn & Wound
Citizen s Latest Pair Jan 30, 2023

Citizen’s Latest Pair of Divers Pay Tribute to Classic Promasters

Much of the country might be gripped by the dead of winter, but that doesn’t mean we can’t start thinking about the summer watches we’ll be wearing just a few (OK, maybe more than “a few”) months from now. In fact, I’d argue that a week where you see multiple major snowstorms leaving the landscape gray, salt stained, and dangerously icy is the perfect time to consider the next summer sports watch. The power of positive thinking, and whatnot. Citizen, it turns out, has a few contenders that have just been announced if you’re on the hunt for something fun and sporty for the warmer months. A bonus: these also work perfectly fine in an Ice Station Zebra situation, but I’m trying to lift myself out of a winter funk, so bear with me while I indulge a short lived fantasy of beach weather and strong drinks with those little umbrellas in them.  The pair of watches making their debut this month are built on Citizen’s fantastic Eco-Drive platform of solar charged quartz movements, perhaps the ultimate in affordable grab-and-go watch tech. Each watch is also based on Citizen classics from the early 00s, a period of time when the Big Watch trend was reaching a peak. The “Autozilla,” released in 2002, was a titanium dive watch with a water resistance rating of 1,000 meters in an enormous 55mm case. Citizen followed that watch up with the “Ecozilla,” a version of the watch with a similar case but powered by light, in 2004. Both are highly sought after by Citize...

Australia is ready to vote to ditch the leap second at upcoming Paris summit Time+Tide
Nov 21, 2022

Australia is ready to vote to ditch the leap second at upcoming Paris summit

Back in August we covered the idea of a “negative leap second“, in which, due to the record short day lengths a backward leap second may need to be instituted to reconcile time. At the time I thought the subject was done and dusted, as scientists did not believe any alarms needed to be rang … ContinuedThe post Australia is ready to vote to ditch the leap second at upcoming Paris summit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer debuts two Formula 1 x Mario Kart Limited Editions that fans will race to shell out for Time+Tide
TAG Heuer debuts two Formula 1 Oct 13, 2022

TAG Heuer debuts two Formula 1 x Mario Kart Limited Editions that fans will race to shell out for

In a sceptical marketplace, collaborations and partnerships can sometimes be met with hesitancy. Not every tie-in is created equal. Is it a gimmick? A cash-grab? If the through-line is not there, if it does not feel genuine, then the release is often set to tank. But the proof is ultimately in the pudding. Last year, … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer debuts two Formula 1 x Mario Kart Limited Editions that fans will race to shell out for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Retrospective Exhibition on Urwerk’s 25-year History Is Not to Be Missed! Revolution
Urwerk s 25-year History Oct 5, 2022

A Retrospective Exhibition on Urwerk’s 25-year History Is Not to Be Missed!

Independent Watchmaking Brand Executive, Maximilian Rolf from The Hour Glass, takes Jeremiah on a quick tour of the 25th Anniversary exhibition that tells the story of Urwerk, the avant-garde watchmaking tour-de-force founded in 1997 by Master Watchmaker, Felix Baumgartner and Designer, Martin Frei. This is a retrospective on one of the pioneers of independent watchmaking […]

Breitling Navitimer: The Ultimate Guide to the Icon of Pilot's Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Sep 30, 2022

Breitling Navitimer: The Ultimate Guide to the Icon of Pilot's Watches

Introduced in 1952, the Breitling Navitimer is the quintessential pilot's chronograph watch as well as one of the most instantly recognizable Swiss watches in the world. Aimed exclusively at professional pilots in its earliest versions, the Navitimer was instrumental in popularizing the pilot's watch genre for the general public, and it remains, in all of its various sizes, colorways, and aesthetic executions, the flagship of Breitling's modern-day collection. Here is the story behind the Breitling Navitimer and how it evolved into an icon of its field, along with an overview of Navitimers on the market today. The First Family of Chronographs (1884) German immigrant Léon Breitling (below, left) founded his eponymous watchmaking firm in Saint-Imier, Switzerland in 1884, devoted to producing precise stopwatches and other timing devices for use in military and industrial fields as well as competitive sports. The rise of both the automobile and the airplane in the early 20th century provided the inspiration for Breitling and his son Gaston, who took over the firm in 1914, to produce a number of historic innovations, several of them patented, that would influence the world of horology going forward. Léon launched one of the first timepieces with an eight-day power reserve in 1893, and a chronograph with an unprecedented ⅖-second accuracy in 1896. Gaston (below, center) is renowned today as the inventor of the first wrist chronograph with an independent pusher, separ...