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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Meet our new Editor and Deputy Editor – and apply for this Account Manager role if you’d like to join the team! Time+Tide
Jul 18, 2021

Meet our new Editor and Deputy Editor – and apply for this Account Manager role if you’d like to join the team!

Today, we are more than just a bit tickled to announce that Luke Benedictus – yes, the Luke behind most of our  unputdownable ‘Weekend Reads’ –  will assume the role of Editor of Time+Tide. For the last 18 months, Luke has been an influential force driving our editorial agenda as Contributing Editor. It is unlikely … ContinuedThe post Meet our new Editor and Deputy Editor – and apply for this Account Manager role if you’d like to join the team! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Bethune Introduces the DB25GMT Starry Varius SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Jun 15, 2021

De Bethune Introduces the DB25GMT Starry Varius

While the pandemic is not entirely in the rearview mirror yet, international travel is recovering slowly but surely, so De Bethune’s latest arrives at an opportune time. The DB25GMT Starry Varius is a gently updated version of its dual time zone wristwatch – smaller, thinner, and lighter than the original, while also sporting the brand’s trademark “Starry Night” dial. More classical than the brand’s best-known models like the DB28 or DW5, the DB25GMT nonetheless incorporates details that are quintessentially De Bethune in addition to the celestial motif dial, helping it stand out amongst dual-time watches. Initial thoughts If money was no object, the first watch I would buy is my “grail”, the De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Tourbillon. It has an ethereal quality and technical innovations that capture both the mind and heart. Unsurprisingly, I love the DB25GMT Starry Varius, which has a similar style but is more practical. The star-studded dial is a modest upgrade, but one that significantly improves the aesthetics of the brand’s original dual time-zone watch that was launched in 2016. Matching it with a travel-time complication makes sense as a historical reference, since explorers once depended on the stars for navigation – making the design feel like a match made in heaven (pun intended). The multiple-part dial gives the watch visual depth despite the clean layout, certainly making it one of the most captivating travel watches. But the new dual ...

De Bethune Debuts Contemporary Chiaroscuro on Titanium SJX Watches
De Bethune Debuts Contemporary Chiaroscuro Jun 3, 2021

De Bethune Debuts Contemporary Chiaroscuro on Titanium

Resembling an alien seashell, the Dream Watch 5 is De Bethune’s most unusual case and unquestionably its most artistic creation. While the model started out as a pared-back affair entirely in polished titanium, the DW5 has since evolved into a canvas for decoration like over-the-top, dancing-skeleton engraving. The DW5 Empreinte sits in between the two aesthetic extremes. Clad in deep, dark colours, the case is inlaid with a subtle, organic pattern that’s hard to describe. The distinctive colours and pattern were conceived by Clara Martin, who won the 2019 prize in the annual contest sponsored by De Bethune that’s open to masters students at the University of Art and Design Lausanne, better known by its French acronym ECAL. Ms Martin’s vision was realised by De Bethune cofounder Denis Flageollet, a talented watchmaker and self-taught metallurgist, as well as Michèle Rothen, the brand’s go-to engraver. Denis Flageollet and Clara Martin Initial thoughts De Bethune’s avant-garde in both style and watchmaking – an attractive combination that leaves the watchmaker with few peers. But even so, the DW5 still manages to stand out from the brand’s other offerings, as it is arguably a sculpture first and a timepiece second. The fluid, organic case is three-dimensional and gorgeous – and even more incredible when executed in the right material and colours, as demonstrated by the meteorite version of 2016. The DW5 Empreinte gets it right, with a deep black case a...

Seriously Playful Roland Iten R18 Superdriver Mechanical Belt Buckle: Because A Richard Mille Can’t Hold Up Your Pants (With Video) Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey timepiece can’t scratch Apr 22, 2021

Seriously Playful Roland Iten R18 Superdriver Mechanical Belt Buckle: Because A Richard Mille Can’t Hold Up Your Pants (With Video)

Absolutely nobody needs an expensive high-end mechanical belt buckle built like an expensive high-end wristwatch. But then nobody needs an expensive high-end wristwatch either. For those with deep pockets and an itch that another Richard Mille, F.P. Journe, or Greubel Forsey timepiece can’t scratch, the Roland Iten R18 Superdriver might just do the trick.

We don’t want to sound like broken records, but Bulgari just broke another world record   Here is our top 5 from 2021 Time+Tide
Bulgari just broke another world Apr 10, 2021

We don’t want to sound like broken records, but Bulgari just broke another world record Here is our top 5 from 2021

I had to ask the question. I was live on Zoom with Fabrizio Buonamasa-Stigliani, we were encouraged to ask anything that was on our minds. So how about this elephant in the room: “Are you nervous about the year you don’t break a world record with one of your watches?” He played a straight bat, … ContinuedThe post We don’t want to sound like broken records, but Bulgari just broke another world record Here is our top 5 from 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First Impressions: Cartier Privé Cloche de Cartier SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Cloche de Cartier Apr 7, 2021

First Impressions: Cartier Privé Cloche de Cartier

Unveiled alongside the fancy Cloche Skeleton, the Privé Cloche de Cartier is the latest vintage design to be revived by the Parisian jeweller. Less famous than the Tank or Santos, the Cloche is nevertheless an original design that quirkier than the typical Cartier case. Designed in the 1920s and shaped like a bell – cloche is French for “bell” – the Cloche has been a fixture in Cartier’s catalogue for decades, but only ever produced in small numbers, explaining its relatively obscurity. The last major edition of the model was the Collection Privee Cartier Paris (CPCP) limited edition of 2007 – 100 in yellow gold with a silver dial – though smaller runs and custom models were made in the interim. The new Privé Cloche is offered in three metals – either pink or yellow gold as well as platinum – each limited to 100 pieces. The Cloche variants. Image – Cartier Initial thoughts The Cloche is a quirky but appealing shape that brings to mind “driver’s” watches, but is an original design in itself. The newest iteration of the century-old design is the largest to date, making it a good size for a formal-dress watch even by modern standards. The case is fairly wide, and also thick enough it doesn’t feel delicate. The only aspect of the design I question is the strap, which feels too narrow, especially on a bare wrist that isn’t under a shirt cuff. Although the design is classic Cartier, the colours and details give the Cloche a more modern feel. The d...

We have some new team members we’d like you to meet, our US Editor and Independents Editor Time+Tide
Feb 26, 2021

We have some new team members we’d like you to meet, our US Editor and Independents Editor

One of the upsides of a pretty challenging 2020 was that while it reinforced the tyranny of distance we feel from the industry we’re a part of (international flights, cancelled), oddly enough it also brought us closer than we’ve ever been to overseas friends, industry leaders and freelancers. Personally, I’ve never spoken to more CEOs … ContinuedThe post We have some new team members we’d like you to meet, our US Editor and Independents Editor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Bethune Introduces the DB28GS Yellow Submarine SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Nov 1, 2020

De Bethune Introduces the DB28GS Yellow Submarine

De Bethune builds watches that are deliciously futuristic in form and construction, though it has rarely applied its house style to sports watches. Last year’s DB28GS Grand Blue is a bona fide sports watch, with plenty of water resistance and dynamo-powered illumination. Now it’s been given a new look with the DB28GS Yellow Submarine, which has a richly-gilded case that is actually titanium heat treated to create a bronze-gold oxide layer on its surface. Initial thoughts Measuring 44 mm wide and 12.8 mm high, the DB28GS is even chunkier than most De Bethune watches, which are already quite large. The original DB28GS Grand Blue is mostly a monotonous grey, with some blue accents, giving it a technical, rugged style. Even though it is just a change in colour, the yellow case of the Yellow Submarine gives it an entirely new look. The gold finish is luxe but more bronze in tone, and also combined with a brushed surface finish, giving the watch a warm, slightly aged look. And the new case colour gives the watch more contrast – it definitely pops – making it more visually attractive than its predecessor. The original DB28GS was a pricey watch, and so is the new Yellow Submarine. But fortunately it costs almost the same at 95,000 Swiss francs, or about 4% more than its predecessor. Yellow titanium De Bethune’s inventiveness is most prolific in its movements, but also extends to cases. Its signature case material is heat-blued titanium – where the alloy is heated ove...

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Andrew’s DOXA SUB 1200T and the William Wood Valiant Red Watch face off on each wrist Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 1200T Apr 30, 2020

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Andrew’s DOXA SUB 1200T and the William Wood Valiant Red Watch face off on each wrist

“Why is he yelling?” someone in the YouTube comments has already asked. And it’s a good question. In my first appearance in Every Watch Tells A Story, I am shouting like a person in a particularly noisy pub. That’s because, for the shoots that comprise this series that’s what the Time+Tide office turns into. A particularly … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Andrew’s DOXA SUB 1200T and the William Wood Valiant Red Watch face off on each wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Visiting The De Bethune Manufacture In The Swiss Mountains (Video): Is It A Spaceship? Quill & Pad
De Bethune Manufacture Jan 8, 2020

Visiting The De Bethune Manufacture In The Swiss Mountains (Video): Is It A Spaceship?

De Bethune is one of the most avant-garde watch brands on the planet. Knowing that, did you ever wonder what its factory looks like? Is it much different from other watch factories? What do this brand’s technicians do differently than others? How do they get the watches to look like that? And the most burning question: does the factory look like a spaceship? These questions and more get answered here.

De Bethune Introduces the Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Nov 20, 2019

De Bethune Introduces the Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia

Shaped like an extraterrestrial seashell, the De Bethune Dream Watch 5 (DW5) is the brand’s most striking timepiece. It’s simple in function – showing just the time and moon phase – but more of a time-telling object than a mere watch. The new Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia is the opposite of the sleek, smooth finish of the original Dream Watch. The rose gold case is fully engraved with a motif from Les Cités obscures, or The Obscure Cities, a series of graphic novels by Belgian duo François Schuiten and Benoît Peeters. Specifically, the engraving depicts Armilia, an underground city of the novels that’s shaped like an armillary sphere. François Schuiten’s original drawing of Armilia Responsible for the engraving is Michele Rothen Rebetez, a freelance engraver based in Le Locle who has worked with De Bethune for several years, most recently on the Maestri Art I and II. Instead of the deeper, relief engraving that Ms Rothen Rebetez typically uses for watches, the DW5 Armilia is finished with banknote style engraving, made up of numerous fine, shallow lines to create depth and shadow. The DW5 is produced in two sizes, and the DW5 Armilia is in the larger, 58mm size. Mechanically, it is identical to the standard DW5, with the time indicated in a narrow window, along with the spherical moon phase display, both framed in blued titanium. The cal is 18k rose gold, while the crown is topped with a 1-carat blue sapphire.   Key facts and price Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia R...

INTRODUCING: The Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition Time+Tide
Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Sep 16, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition

It seems like only yesterday that Breitling released their Navitimer 1 Airline Editions. Evidently, time doesn’t stop for the aeronautically enthusiastic watchmaker, though, because they’ve just dropped this – the Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition.   Based on Breitling’s standard Aviator 8 Day & Date 41, the Etihad Airways … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms ‘Nageurs de Combat’  Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms ‘Nageurs de May 17, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms ‘Nageurs de Combat’ 

Like it or not, the origin story of Blancpain’s famous diver is inseparable from that of naval warfare. The development of the original watch was driven by two men, Captain Robert Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, who were in charge of a newly formed French unit, the Combat Swimmers - or Nageurs de Combat. They … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms ‘Nageurs de Combat’  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Our top 3 watches of Basel 2019 from $35,000 and up – featuring Patek, De Bethune and Hublot Time+Tide
De Bethune Mar 31, 2019

VIDEO: Our top 3 watches of Basel 2019 from $35,000 and up – featuring Patek, De Bethune and Hublot

I don’t know about you, but when the price point of a timepiece starts to creep beyond the realms of the everyday, things like price points start to get a little abstract. And, let’s be real here - for most people (though perhaps not most people reading this), watches with a sticker price north of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Our top 3 watches of Basel 2019 from $35,000 and up – featuring Patek, De Bethune and Hublot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: New balance – the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph  Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Jan 31, 2019

HANDS-ON: New balance – the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph 

One of the most interesting - and important - new watch releases I saw while in Geneva recently wasn’t shown at SIHH at all. Rather, it was presented by TAG Heuer. On the surface the watch is typically TAG Heuer, in look and indeed nomenclature - it’s called the Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: New balance – the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night Watch Time+Tide
Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Nov 19, 2017

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night Watch

Cartier may be better known for simple timekeeping classics like the Tank or the Santos. But it’s no secret that the French maison also hosts a history full of complicated – and equally as iconic – designs. In fact, even before the Tank or the Santos were the style icons they are today, Cartier were … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: What’s the world’s second biggest watch fair really like? We walked around SIHH so you don’t have to… Time+Tide
Jan 17, 2017

VIDEO: What’s the world’s second biggest watch fair really like? We walked around SIHH so you don’t have to…

SIHH is as common an abbreviation to us as YMCA. It doesn’t have dance moves, it’s not the Nutbush City Limits, but it does involve the team covering some serious mileage early in the year, every year. The question is, what happens at SIHH? What is it actually like? We made a video, to complete … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: What’s the world’s second biggest watch fair really like? We walked around SIHH so you don’t have to… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rare Watches: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalité with a gorgeous mother of pearl dial Deployant
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalité Aug 24, 2012

Rare Watches: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalité with a gorgeous mother of pearl dial

Francois Paul Journe. A talented watchmaker. I had the pleasure of meeting with FP way back when he was yet a nobody…and had just made his first tourbillon remontoir d’egalité. The original looked like it was made in his garage, and indeed it was. But recently, I had the pleasure of spending a week withRead More