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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Auctions: A.-L. Breguet to F.P. Journe at Christie’s Geneva SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Apr 27, 2025

Auctions: A.-L. Breguet to F.P. Journe at Christie’s Geneva

Rare Watches in Geneva kicks off the spring auction season for Christie’s. Some of the highlights amongst the sale’s 183 lots illustrates the history and evolution of horology, most notably with timepieces by Abraham-Louis Breguet and Francois-Paul Journe. The notable F.P. Journe offerings include a Resonance pre-souscription and a Ruthenium full house, complete with numbered box. The standouts from Breguet include a pocket watch first owned by Pauline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s younger sister, an early striking carriage clock, and an intriguing Type XX precursor literally gone askew. F.P Journe Principally inspired by the work of A.-L. Breguet and Antide Janvier, Francois-Paul Journe’s landmark Chronomètre à Résonance was the first attempt at synchronised, coupled oscillators in a wristwatch. The first numbered 20 examples were reserved for a Breguet-style souscription series – paid in advance by the client – but were not the first made. Image – Christie’s A handful of pre-production watches were made for Basel 1999, followed by the pre-souscription series to which this watch belongs. About 20 watches starting from “21” onwards are pre-souscription, and this is “041/00R”. Notably, one example prior, “040/00R”, sold for a little under CHF1.4 million including fees at Christie’s in 2023, setting a record. Image – Christie’s  The Ruthenium collection, built in 99 examples each across five models from 2001 to 2005, includes the Octa Calendrie...

Breguet Turns to Tradition with the Classique Souscription SJX Watches
Breguet Turns Apr 25, 2025

Breguet Turns to Tradition with the Classique Souscription

The opening salvo in Breguet’s 250th anniversary has just been revealed: the Classique Souscription 2025BH. Although typically Breguet in style, the watch is a novel combination of elements, at least by the conventions of Breguet, a traditionally staid brand. Presented in a case of the new design made of a gold alloy of a new formula, it’s a wristwatch inspired by the one-handed souscription pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. The fired enamel dial replicates that of the pocket watch, while inside is the VS00, a calibre that is descended from the movement of the La Tradition. Initial thoughts As storied a brand as it is, Breguet certainly has a lot to live up to for its 250th anniversary. I expect more to come from Breguet in the coming months, but the Classique Souscription is a strong start, though a little pricey. It’s essentially an elaborately executed time-only watch, precisely the sort of watch that is popular now when made by independent watchmakers, but big brands face more scepticism with such timepieces. The VS00 Though it might seem typical Breguet on its face, the Classique Souscription is an unusual proposition; it’s inspired by various elements from across Breguet’s history, some several centuries apart. The dial and movement are inspired by a 19th century pocket watch, while the case comes much later. But everything works well and the whole manages to look like a Breguet. Traditionalists might mourn the departure from familiar elements ...

First Look – The Singer Heritage Collection Chronograph with Restored Valjoux Movement Monochrome
Apr 16, 2025

First Look – The Singer Heritage Collection Chronograph with Restored Valjoux Movement

Singer (understand Singer Vehicle Design) first made a name for itself with its bespoke restorations of the Porsche 911, and in recent years, the California-based brand has also been turning heads in watchmaking with its Track 1 chronograph – known for its unconventional layouts and innovative AgenGraphe movements developed by Agenhor, without forgetting the Divetrack, […]

First Look – Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary “Materials and High Complication” Set Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Apr 5, 2025

First Look – Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary “Materials and High Complication” Set

Hublot pulls out all the stops for the 20th-anniversary celebrations of its iconic Big Bang with a one-of-a-kind “Materials & High Complications” set composed of five unique pieces. Flaunting tourbillons, chronographs and minute repeaters – and in one case, a combination of all three – this unique set traces the material innovation and high-end complications […]

First Look – The New Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm with Ice Blue Dial Monochrome
Frederique Constant focuses Apr 4, 2025

First Look – The New Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm with Ice Blue Dial

Alpina, a subsidiary of the Citizen Group since 2016 – specializes in sports watches, while its sister brand Frederique Constant focuses on accessible luxury. Its core collections, the Startimer, Seastrong, and Alpiner, embody the adventurous spirit of aviation, sea exploration, and mountaineering. Within the Alpiner lineup, the Extreme series includes a chronograph, regulator, skeleton models, […]