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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands” SJX Watches
Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 Jan 11, 2023

Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands”

Even though Breguet is not a name that instantly comes to mind when it comes to ladies’ watches, the brand makes one of the most distinctive female watches on the market today. Late last year Breguet debuted perhaps its most ladies watch in some time: the Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 that both possess a quirky yet graceful complication inspired by “expanding hands” pocket watches from the 18th century. Immediately recognisable thanks to its distinctive egg-shaped case, the Reine de Naples was inspired by similarly-ovoid bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples and the younger sister of Napoleon. Reine de Naples – literally “Queen of Naples” – remains the brand’s signature watch for ladies, though the line-up has grown to encompass many iterations over the years. Admittedly, the models are numerous enough that few leave a lasting impression, but the “expanding hands” allow the new duo to easily stand out. Initial thoughts I was impressed when I first laid eyes on the new Reine de Naples. Neither is a typical ladies’ timepieces that lazily relies only on a bejewelled case to stand out. Both models have a striking, elegant aesthetic that’s slightly more modern than expected from Breguet but still possessed of enough intricate detail. Though seemingly simple at the glance, the new Reine de Naples has a clever and unusual hour display with “expanding hands”. The simplicity of the time display combined with the n...

Pushing case design with the Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5-Day Power Reserve Time+Tide
Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5-Day Dec 20, 2022

Pushing case design with the Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5-Day Power Reserve

What is a watch case? Is it simply a container for the movement? The frame to a beautiful piece of art? For Hublot it seems the case is much more and should be a continuation of the design. And nowhere do we see this ideology play out better than in the new Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon … ContinuedThe post Pushing case design with the Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5-Day Power Reserve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Aventurine is a Hubble telescope on the wrist Time+Tide
Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Aventurine Nov 1, 2022

The Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Aventurine is a Hubble telescope on the wrist

Aventurine has never quite taken off in the same way that bronze cases or green dials have in the past few years, for a variety of reasons. Given their niche appeal and stylistically inflexible appearance, aventurine dials are often at risk of looking cheesy or forced. For it to work, the whole watch needs to … ContinuedThe post The Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Aventurine is a Hubble telescope on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“I don’t like cricket – I love it!” Why the new Vulcain Cricket is one of the best vintage re-issues to date Time+Tide
Vulcain Cricket Sep 15, 2022

“I don’t like cricket – I love it!” Why the new Vulcain Cricket is one of the best vintage re-issues to date

As the first mechanical alarm wristwatch and a watch that graced the wrists of presidents since 1953 – the Vulcain Cricket was always a great vintage proposition. For 2022, however, Vulcain is releasing two model lines across two sizes that will continue the Cricket’s legacy, comprising of the Vulcain Cricket Classic and Cricket Tradition. The … ContinuedThe post “I don’t like cricket – I love it!” Why the new Vulcain Cricket is one of the best vintage re-issues to date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Release: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Deployant
De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar DEPLOYANT Sep 3, 2022

New Release: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar

This new perpetual calendar is fitted with a leather strap secured by a polished titanium buckle and accompanied by a second grey fabric strap. Vividly illustrating the technical and aesthetic expertise of the Manufacture, this new Reference DB25sQP marks its entry into the perpetual calendar collection and will be limited to a single production run of 15 units per year.

INTRODUCING: The HYT Hastroid is like an alien spaceship for the wrist (in a good way) Time+Tide
HYT Aug 7, 2022

INTRODUCING: The HYT Hastroid is like an alien spaceship for the wrist (in a good way)

Innovation is always risky, but HYT paid the ultimate price in 2021 when they were forced into bankruptcy less than 10 years after announcing their award-winning H1 watch to raucous reception. Now only a year later, HYT have been resurrected by Kairos Technology Switzerland - an innovative company in their own right who have appointed … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The HYT Hastroid is like an alien spaceship for the wrist (in a good way) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Bethune Fills Marc Newson’s Hourglass with Blued Steel SJX Watches
De Bethune Fills Marc Newson’s Hourglass Jun 22, 2022

De Bethune Fills Marc Newson’s Hourglass with Blued Steel

Designed a decade ago by Marc Newson, the industrial designer most famous for his Lockheed Lounge chair and the Apple Watch, the sleek hourglass is exceedingly simple yet remarkably complex to fabricate. It’s made of a single piece of glass – blown by hand in Switzerland – and filled with millions of tiny metal spheres known as nanoballs. De Bethune has applied its signature heat treatment to the object, resulting in the De Bethune x HG Timepiece Blue Hourglass, a limited edition pair of large and small timekeepers filled with heat-blued steel nanoballs. Initial thoughts More sculpture than timekeeper, the hourglass is a beautiful object that is incredibly simple yet impressive in its artisanal nature. The glass is blown by hand yet perfectly in form and proportions. The De Bethune touch adds another level of beauty to the object. Instead of the plated nanoballs found in the standard version of the hourglass, the Blue Hourglass contains blue nanoballs heat treated by Denis Flageollet himself. However, the addition of Mr Flageollet’s talents to the prowess of Swiss glassblowers comes at a high price. The smaller, 10-minute Blue Hourglass costs CHF25,000, more than double the price of the standard hourglass with plated nanoballs. That’s affordable relative to everything else than De Bethune makes, but it’s a steep premium for the hourglass. Tinkling timekeepers The Blue Hourglass is available in the two standard sizes: the larger, 60-minute timer and a smaller 10...

8 Picks From The Ineichen ‘Precious Blues’ Auction On April 23, 2022 Featuring Delectable Rarities By De Bethune, Alain Silberstein, And Many Other Independents Quill & Pad
De Bethune Alain Silberstein Apr 15, 2022

8 Picks From The Ineichen ‘Precious Blues’ Auction On April 23, 2022 Featuring Delectable Rarities By De Bethune, Alain Silberstein, And Many Other Independents

There is a watch auctioneer focusing on bringing beauty into auctions rather than chasing world records by concentrating on (the) two highly popular brands: Ineichen based in Zurich. And here Elizabeth Doerr highlights eight timepieces in its next auction that she thinks we should be paying special attention to when others might not be. Ineichen's Precious Blues auction takes place on April 23, 2022.

Michael Caine’s Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date sells for £125,000 at auction Time+Tide
Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date sells Mar 3, 2022

Michael Caine’s Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date sells for £125,000 at auction

As Michael Caine went from strength to strength in the 1970s, he was frequently pictured with a gold Rolex. I’ve written before about my love for the Day-Date on a leather strap that he wore in Get Carter. But Caine also showed his forward-thinking mindset by also snapping up this 18K gold Oysterquartz Day-Date, which … ContinuedThe post Michael Caine’s Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date sells for £125,000 at auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: Look which G.O.A.T just joined the sports star ranks of AP Black Panther owners Time+Tide
Nov 14, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Look which G.O.A.T just joined the sports star ranks of AP Black Panther owners

Editor’s Note: When we originally ran this story, there was a flurry of male athletes spotted wearing the AP Royal Oak Concept Black Panther Flying Tourbillon. Recently, however, a very notable powerhouse athlete has entered the mix. Her message: move over boys, cause this G.O.A.T rocks it just like the best of ‘em… When the … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Look which G.O.A.T just joined the sports star ranks of AP Black Panther owners appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Michael Caine in Get Carter demonstrates the timeless cool of a Rolex Day-Date on a brown leather strap Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date Nov 12, 2021

Michael Caine in Get Carter demonstrates the timeless cool of a Rolex Day-Date on a brown leather strap

Named as Quentin Tarantino’s favourite British film, the gangster classic Get Carter turns 50 this year. It follows Michael Caine as Jack Carter who travels to Newcastle to avenge his brother’s death and winds up single-handedly taking on the local mob. Directed by Mike Hodges, Get Carter proved a controversial film at the time with its … ContinuedThe post Michael Caine in Get Carter demonstrates the timeless cool of a Rolex Day-Date on a brown leather strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar is an everyday smartwatch for any collector Time+Tide
Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar Oct 27, 2021

VIDEO: The Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar is an everyday smartwatch for any collector

A mechanical watch tends to be the only target for those of us in love with horology. Yet everyone would have to admit there are times when you need a bit more from what’s strapped on your wrist. It’s these moments where a smartwatch elevates itself and becomes the best option out there. With multiple … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar is an everyday smartwatch for any collector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2021 Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este On Lake Como, Italy: Sensational Cars, Breathtaking Scenery, And Beautiful A. Lange & Söhne Watches  Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 13, 2021

2021 Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este On Lake Como, Italy: Sensational Cars, Breathtaking Scenery, And Beautiful A. Lange & Söhne Watches 

A. Lange & Söhne sponsors the world's most luxurious vintage car event, the Villa d’Este Concorso d’Eleganza, and has done so since 2012. The event has taken place every year (except one) on gorgeous Lake Como in Italy since 1929. Elizabeth Doerr went to the 2021 event and shares her impressions of the elegant event with us here.

5 Of The Best De Bethune Models In The Last 12 Months Plus Bonus Video Of The De Bethune x Voutilainen Kind Of Magic For Only Watch 2021 Quill & Pad
De Bethune Models Sep 3, 2021

5 Of The Best De Bethune Models In The Last 12 Months Plus Bonus Video Of The De Bethune x Voutilainen Kind Of Magic For Only Watch 2021

The second edition of Geneva Watch Days (August 30 through September 3, 2021) is upon the Quill & Pad team, and among the many brands Ian has looked forward to catching up with is one of his all-time favorites: De Bethune. Here are six watches the brand has recently released as seen through Ian's lens, including the brand's unique Only Watch 2021 piece.

INTRODUCING: The Time+Tide x Doxa SUB 600T ‘pacific’ Limited Edition of 200 pieces, available to buy here now Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 600T ‘pacific’ Limited Aug 30, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Time+Tide x Doxa SUB 600T ‘pacific’ Limited Edition of 200 pieces, available to buy here now

Founder’s note: Today is a milestone for me, and the Time+Tide Team, as we announce a limited edition release with a brand our team has so much fondness for. None other than Doxa. Together, we are reviving a watch we consider to be ripe for reinvention: The SUB 600T, a model from the 1980s that squared up … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Time+Tide x Doxa SUB 600T ‘pacific’ Limited Edition of 200 pieces, available to buy here now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Ti 230 smashes my preconceptions of a Genta classic Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Ti 230 Aug 5, 2021

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Ti 230 smashes my preconceptions of a Genta classic

I might not be the most objective person in our team to write this story, given my well-known love affair with the slim, and, to me, sexy as hell 38mm Laureato I aim to get this year. For me this Genta-licious watch in its warm 904L steel is simply one of the best and most … ContinuedThe post The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Ti 230 smashes my preconceptions of a Genta classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Fratello × Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green Limited Edition Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake Jul 2, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Fratello × Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green Limited Edition

Fratello knocked it out of the park in their last collaboration outing with Oris to create a bronze/burgundy Big Crown that nailed all the details with aplomb. Now our friends in the Netherlands have brought their keen eye for aesthetics to another end of the pricing spectrum, teaming up with a high-end independent watch manufacturer … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Fratello × Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Bethune’s Ultra-Thin DB28XP Gets a Blued Meteorite Dial SJX Watches
De Bethune s Ultra-Thin DB28XP Gets Mar 17, 2021

De Bethune’s Ultra-Thin DB28XP Gets a Blued Meteorite Dial

Introduced to commemorate the 10th anniversary of De Bethune’s signature watch, the DB28XP is a pared-back, slimmer and more wearable take on the original model, though still instantly recognisable with its trademark pivoted lugs. Now De Bethune unveils the most exotic variant of the watch to date, the DB28XP Meteorite. It retains many of the elements the brand is known for, but the highlight is a brilliantly blued meteorite dial. Meteorite dials are common, even on inexpensive watches, but De Bethune’s meteorite is unlike any other in watchmaking. Though the material is just like any other meteorite, it has been heat-treated, creating a blue oxidisation that gives it a special blue sheen. Initial thoughts De Bethune is one of my favourite independent watchmakers – I love the Kind of Two Tourbillon from earlier in the year. Innovation is its raison d’etre, and the new DB28XP Meteorite exemplifies that, both technically and aesthetically. While heat-blued titanium is a De Bethune hallmark, heat-blued meteorite takes the look to a whole new level. The gold-studded “starry sky” dial captures the cosmos on the wrist. Though the look is very different, the DB28XP Meteorite has all of the wearability of the standard model. It has sprung, pivoted lugs that allow it to cling to the wrist, while also being more compact than the original, full-size DB28. The brand has previously utilised the blued meteorite in the Dream Watch 5 and Kind of Blue Meteorite – both sp...