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Quartz Crisis

1969-1985 industry collapse triggered by the Seiko Astron. Cost Swiss watchmaking two-thirds of its workforce; rebounded via Swatch Group consolidation and Biver's Blancpain.

Wiki · Guide
The Quartz Astron Launch Seiko

Christmas Day 1969: Seiko launches the world\'s first quartz wristwatch and detonates the Swiss watch industry.

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Limited edition Seiko turtle HBB002: PADI's 60th in sunburst Blue

Seiko's Prospex Turtle HBB002 marks PADI's 60th anniversary. Electric sunburst blue dial, ceramic bezel, 200m water resistance, 8,000-piece limited run.

Exclusive · Guide
The Best vacation watches for 2026: ten picks from a kollokium to a G-Shock

One Swiss surprise with a hand-painted island dial, one Seiko you can lose in a beach bag, one G-Shock for pool days, and eight more in between. Ten watches to actually enjoy on holiday, from $99 to $8,800.

Introducing - The New Seiko Presage Style60s SRPL71, SRPL73, and SRPL75 Monochrome
Seiko Presage Style60s SRPL71 SRPL73 Apr 24, 2025

Introducing - The New Seiko Presage Style60s SRPL71, SRPL73, and SRPL75

The Seiko Presage Style60s collection has become a classic for the Japanese watchmaker. Inspired by the Crown Chronograph of 1964, even though we’re talking about time-and-date or GMT models in general, this collection brings vintage flair and casual style at reasonable prices. Recently, Seiko released a pair of new models – SRPL07 and SRPL09 – […]

The Seiko King Turtle: Does This Budget-Friendly Diver Reign Supreme? Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Apr 15, 2025

The Seiko King Turtle: Does This Budget-Friendly Diver Reign Supreme?

Japan’s Seiko has never been shy about going bold and unconventional with its designs, especially when it comes to its divers’ watches, a genre in which the brand has been an undisputed industry pioneer since the 1960s. One of its most off-the-wall and yet most enduringly popular designs is the so-called Turtle, which made its debut in the 1970s and has undergone a successful renaissance here in the 21st Century as part of Seiko’s rugged and sport-centric Prospex line. At the pinnacle of the Turtle sub-family, in terms of luxurious  finishing and dominant wrist presence, is the grandly named King Turtle, best represented by the Refs. SRPE03 and SRPE05 released in 2019. Here’s what you should know about them. By the time this watch’s ancestors made their debut, Seiko had already produced some highly unusual, unexpectedly iconic, and cleverly nicknamed dive watches, like the Ref. 6159 “Tuna” (for its chunky tuna-can-like case shape) and the Ref. 6105 “Captain Willard” (thanks to its being famously worn by Martin Sheen’s character in Apocalypse Now.) The “Turtle” nickname first surfaced in 1976, applied to the References 6306 and 6309 - the former, made for the Japanese market, and the latter, for international customers. These watches were notable for their cushion-shaped cases with softly rounded lugs, which brought to mind the silhouette of a turtle when viewed from above. The Turtle gained a modicum of pop-culture visibility when actor Ed Harri...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Gerard’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Tudor, And Rolex Fratello
Grand Seiko Tudor Apr 14, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Gerard’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Tudor, And Rolex

With more than 55,000 visitors, Watches and Wonders 2025 saw the fair’s greatest attendance to date. In his closing press release, President Cyrille Vigneron proudly named it a must-attend professional event and a platform for watchmaking maisons to express their creativity. I agree, although, after 26 touch-and-try sessions, one discovers a pattern revealing that brand […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Gerard’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Tudor, And Rolex to read the full article.

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Take Apr 14, 2025

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA

Take a moment to think about the characteristics that would make the perfect everyday watch; what would you come up with? The list would probably include things like maximum precision, minimum weight, an agreeable size with good ergonomics, and a design that is at home in both formal and casual environments. It also wouldn’t cost a fortune. That might as well have been the design brief for the new Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) SLGB001 and SLGB003, which ticks about as many boxes as any single watch can. In fact, just about the worst thing you can say about the UFA is that the design isn’t taking any risks, but that’s the cost of chameleon-like versatility. While the watch is also available in an 80-piece limited edition in platinum (the SLGB001, pictured above), the primary focus of this review will be the more crowd-pleasing titanium version with matching bracelet (the SLGB003), which is a regular production model and priced right. The SLGB003 Initial thoughts Putting it bluntly, the UFA is an absolute spec-sheet monster. If you’re onboard with the idea of a quartz oscillator in an otherwise mechanical watch, there’s very little to nitpick. It’s simply one of the most accurate, wearable, and well-made watches on the market.  In true Grand Seiko style, the UFA is fitted with a nature-inspired dial motif that is modeled on a hillside of frost-covered trees. It’s a fairly abstract representation, which means it will look like d...

eBay Finds: Precious Metal Classics from Omega and IWC, a Funky Waltham, and a Seiko 5 in Great Condition Worn & Wound
Omega Apr 11, 2025

eBay Finds: Precious Metal Classics from Omega and IWC, a Funky Waltham, and a Seiko 5 in Great Condition

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Waltham B-383 Rally Diver  Here’s a wild one to start off this week, a vintage Waltham diver with a bold rally dial. The large squarish chunky steel case looks unpolished with sharp edges. The diver’s bezel has a cool half yellow, half black acrylic insert that is in really nice shape. The dial is what really sets this diver apart though, with its intricate black, yellow and blue alternating “rally” style design. Broad steel hands and the ubiquitous 1970s day/date window complete the look. No movement picture, but the seller states it runs well. This one has all the vintage swag you could want in a diver! View auction here Vintage Seiko 5 Sportsmatic  Next up is this simple yet stylish vintage Seiko 5 Sportsmatic. These are really versatile, large and robust enough to be sporty, but you can dress it up with a nice leather strap and it would be right at home with a suit! This 1967 model is in excellent, unpolished shape, with a large 38mm case. The classic Seiko silver dial with steel markers and hands is also excellent. Of note, the hour and minute hands are the exact same hands used on the iconic Seiko 6105 divers, although the lume color is different. Nice clean auto...

A New Dial for the Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph SJX Watches
Grand Seiko s Tentagraph Grand Seiko’s Apr 10, 2025

A New Dial for the Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph

Grand Seiko’s flagship chronograph gets a new dial with the Tentagraph SLGC007 that just launched at Watches & Wonders 2025. Nearly identical to its predecessor, the SLGC001 with a dark blue dial, the new iteration distinguishes itself through a striking grey dial embossed with a pattern inspired by freshly fallen snow. This is matched with contrasting black sub-dials that coordinate seamlessly with the ceramic bezel, setting it apart from the earlier model. Initial thoughts The SLGC001 was a significant milestone for Grand Seiko - serving as the brand’s first mechanical chronograph - the new iteration of the Tentagraph is a just cosmetic variant. It has all the strengths and weaknesses of the original, though the dial is more attractive. This refreshed dial is far more appealing than the original in blue, as blue is somewhat overused in sports watches. The “panda”-esque black registers are also a nice touch that add to the sporty design. Priced at US$14,700, the Tentagraph SLGC007 is priced reasonably – but not quite the same value proposition as the average Grand Seiko. The Tentagraph has an impressive list of features, most obviously the in-house cal. 9SC5 with Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, and a high level of fit and finish, but the movement is modular in construction, which should not be a case for a flagship chronograph from a respected watchmaker. Nature inspired once again As is often the case with Grand Seiko dials, the SLGC007...

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Debuts Apr 8, 2025

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion

Grand Seiko’s flagship mechanical chronograph has been reimagined as the Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Executed in the brand’s proprietary “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, the oversized, facetted case is inspired by the paw of a lion, the historical emblem of Grand Seiko. This is the first time the Tentagraph movement is being combined with the Tokyo Lion case, setting it apart from the original model that was in the classic Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design. Initial thoughts While the original Tentagraph was conventional in style, the Tokyo Lion edition is big and bold. The watch has presence on the wrist. The case is large at 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high, with its many facetted surfaces catching the light nicely. While the concept of a lion-inspired case might sound gimmicky, the new Tentagraph has its own appeal. The size and style makes this less of a low-key everyday watch than the first Tentagraph, but definitely more striking and original. Even though the Tokyo Lion case is arguably an acquired taste, I like this more than the original. At US$16,400, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is one of Grand Seiko’s priciest models in non-precious metal. But it is a flagship watch with a latest-generation movement, the cal. 9SC5, which incorporates the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement and a free-sprung balance. The only shortcoming of the watch is the modular construction of the movement. Ten beats per second While the Tokyo Lion case design has been emplo...

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph “Tokyo Lion” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Apr 4, 2025

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph “Tokyo Lion”

When the Tentagraph was introduced at Watches & Wonders a few years ago, it was, in its way, a pretty radical idea. Grand Seiko, somewhat surprisingly, had never developed a mechanical chronograph to that point, and the high frequency movement at work in the Tentagraph was and is a significant accomplishment. For Watches & Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko has introduced a new spin on the Tentagraph that is perhaps as equally radical as the introduction of the first Tentagraph in 2023. The new Tokyo Lion Tentagraph (reference SLGC009) puts the Tentagraph into a new context entirely, using what might be Grand Seiko’s most avant-garde and aggressive case shape.  The “Lion” chronographs, which have previously only existed with Spring Drive movements, are characterized by a 43mm titanium case with around 40 facets. That, folks, is a lot of facets, and with the Grand Seiko’s zaratsu polishing applied liberally throughout, it’s one of the most dynamic and intriguing cases in their catalog. It’s also, of course, not for everyone. The severe case lines might be a bit of an acquired taste, and the whole thing has an almost M.C. Escher-like quality about it. As someone who personally struggled with geometry in middle school, this case, when I first saw it, gave me no shortage of anxiety.  Over the years though, as I’ve had more experience handling these complex cases, my appreciation has grown, and the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph jumped out to me as one of the more special release...

First Look - The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Tentagraph SLGC007 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Tentagraph SLGC007 Apr 3, 2025

First Look - The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Tentagraph SLGC007

Grand Seiko got into the spotlight in 2023 with the launch of its first-ever mechanical chronograph, the Evolution 9 Tentagraph SLGC001, filling the gap in the brand’s 60-year legacy of precision watchmaking – surprisingly, it was missing one until recently. For 2025, Grand Seiko introduces the Tentagraph SLGC007 – a near-identical successor to the original, […]

Introducing: The Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 Fratello
Grand Seiko Kiri” SBGW323 Grand Seiko Apr 3, 2025

Introducing: The Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323

Grand Seiko introduced a wide variety of novelties at Watches and Wonders this year. The new U.F.A. models are, without a doubt, the most important ones. However, a humble highlight that also stands out for us is the new Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323. This new addition to the Heritage collection combines a modestly sized 36.5mm 44GS-style […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 to read the full article.

First Look - The Purple Dial of the Grand Seiko 44GS SBGW323 ‘Kiri’ Monochrome
Grand Seiko 44GS SBGW323 ‘Kiri’ What’s Apr 2, 2025

First Look - The Purple Dial of the Grand Seiko 44GS SBGW323 ‘Kiri’

What’s particularly reassuring about Grand Seiko’s more compact watches is that they don’t cut corners. When Grand Seiko introduced its 44GS reference in a 36.5mm case, the characteristics of its 1967 ancestor, the model that cemented the tenets of the “Grammar of Design”, were dutifully respected. Everything admired about Grand Seiko was present but in […]