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Why lug-to-lug matters more than diameter (and how to actually pick a watch that fits)

Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Watch Collecting Regrets? I’ve Had a Few, But Not too Few to Mention: They Include Selling too Soon and Failing to Buy Quill & Pad
Aug 10, 2024

Watch Collecting Regrets? I’ve Had a Few, But Not too Few to Mention: They Include Selling too Soon and Failing to Buy

You can like everything, but you can’t buy – or keep – everything! Inevitably, the choices involved lead at times to regrets; for GaryG, along with many of his pals, the sadness is much more often about pieces they sold too soon or failed to buy rather than pieces they were sorry about buying in the first place. Here's a story of shoulda, woulda, coulda.

The Watch I Didn’t Buy: Crossing Financial Thresholds Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko we’ve been lusting over Aug 3, 2024

The Watch I Didn’t Buy: Crossing Financial Thresholds

Watch budgeting is a funny thing. For most collectors, it involves a significant amount of mental gymnastics as money is moved in and out of an imaginary bank. We say things like “sorry, no funds in the watch bank” when our friends are selling a watch we don’t want to buy. But when Jomashop is offering a deal on that Seiko we’ve been lusting over, funds are magically ready for immediate withdrawal. Sometimes this is because we’ve recently sold some watches and actually have a positive balance in the watch bank. But often, we buy that new Seiko on “credit” with a self-promise to liquidate the current collection to restore financial balance.

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces the Rallymaster III, Inspired by the Lawn Courts of Wimbledon Worn & Wound
Ming all things tennis So Jul 5, 2024

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces the Rallymaster III, Inspired by the Lawn Courts of Wimbledon

I don’t know about you, but after seeing Challengers, I’ve been on a tennis kick lately. Having discovered the sport late in life, I’m now ravenously consuming all things tennis. So when I heard that Maurice de Mauriac has partnered with Racquet Magazine for the next iteration of their Rallymaster, I had to take a look. Like previous models, the Rallymaster III combines vintage elements with a clever eye for details, thanks to designer Carlton DeWoody’s playful touch points throughout the watch. With Wimbledon being the inspiration for this model (previous points of reference included Roland Garros and the US Open), there is a level of retro charm to this one that carries the theme throughout the watch. Most notably in this new reference, we have an olive-green dial that’s reminiscent of lawn courts and the use of 18-carat gold, giving the watch an overall elegant finish while still being playful. I’m particularly fond of the tennis ball indices and the seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, which features 20 second increments (the traditional tennis serve time). Finally, playing into British design language, DeWoody incorporates tan-colored straps to complete the ‘green over tan’ look, a favorite among British vintage and luxury car enthusiasts. Of the overall design, DeWoody says, “I aimed to bridge past and present, reinterpreting classic design with a contemporary lens. The colorful sub-dials and patterning of yachting and racing dials were the perfect insp...

Reviewing The New Santos De Cartier Brown Dial WatchAdvice
Cartier Brown Dial We spend Jun 21, 2024

Reviewing The New Santos De Cartier Brown Dial

We spend a week with the new Santos De Cartier Large brown dial released at this year’s Watches & Wonders and see how this timeless piece wears in the hustle and bustle of daily life. What We Love The timeless design Ingenious quick change and quick link system The slim profile on the wrist What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet The brown dial may not be to everyone’s tastes A see-through caseback would be a great addition Overall Score: 8.75/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 As far as watch releases go, there are few brands that garner global attention come the first day at Watches & Wonders. One of these is Cartier. The second biggest watch brand by sales in the world and a brand synonymous with luxury, Cartier always manages to surprise with both their “everyday” pieces, as well as their Cartier Privé, and High Jewelry collection from their Maison Mètiers d’Arts. So this year I was excited to see first hand what the Maison would bring out, and hopefully, get my hands on these as I’ve not reviewed a piece from Cartier before. One of these pieces was the Santos De Cartier Large with a 70’s vibe brown gradient dial, and being something very different to what I’m used to wearing, was keen to put it on the wrist Related Reading: Cartier Drops Their New Santos Collection Initial Thoughts I always write down my initial thoughts when first handling a new watch. It’s a great way to effectively “Judg...

Vintage Watches: The Omega CK976 With A Glorious T17 Movement Fratello
Omega CK976 Jun 9, 2024

Vintage Watches: The Omega CK976 With A Glorious T17 Movement

Today, we’ll look at a charming little Omega CK976. It’s a lovely watch on the outside, but the inner workings are just as notable if not more so. This tank from 1939 is equipped with the caliber T17, a movement worthy of a place in anyone’s vintage collection. When considering vintage Omega watches and their […] Visit Vintage Watches: The Omega CK976 With A Glorious T17 Movement to read the full article.

Keeping Things Fluid This Monday Morning With The HYT T1 - A Closed Dial Opens Up A World Of Opportunities Fratello
HYT May 27, 2024

Keeping Things Fluid This Monday Morning With The HYT T1 - A Closed Dial Opens Up A World Of Opportunities

One of the biggest recent watch surprises happened the day before Watches and Wonders 2024. Impressively, the watches even captivated all four of the Fratello team members who were there. Normally, a watch release provokes much debate among us. However, the enthusiasm for the four different HYT T1 watches presented on the banks of Lake […] Visit Keeping Things Fluid This Monday Morning With The HYT T1 - A Closed Dial Opens Up A World Of Opportunities to read the full article.

Vertex Commemorates D-Day with the M36 Worn & Wound
Casio n May 20, 2024

Vertex Commemorates D-Day with the M36

This coming June 6 marks the 80th anniversary of D-Day. Vertex, the UK based watch brand headed by Don Cochrane, supplied 1,776 watches to British forces on D-Day, and to commemorate the occasion the brand has released a new reference. The M36 feels very much like a watch that Vertex could have produced at any time, but it makes particular sense in the context of the D-Day anniversary. It’s impossible to look at a watch in this style (and these proportions) from a brand with the history of Vertex and not think about the past.  The M36 was conceived as a watch that would borrow significantly from vintage military issued timepieces. To a certain extent, all Vertex watches do this. It’s in the brand’s DNA and is inescapable in the watches they make. But the M36 goes a few steps further. The case, for one, is a compact 36mm in size, which is true to the vintage watches that Vertex would have supplied, and makes the new watch a solid option for virtually anyone today. The sapphire crystal is box shaped as opposed to domed, which gives it an additional layer of vintage charm, and the straightforward dial layout with large Arabic numerals and a railroad minutes track are right in line with WWII era watches.  The watch runs on a workhorse automatic Sellita caliber and is equipped with an anti-magnetic Nivarox hairspring. The crown screws down, and provides 100 meters of water resistance. There’s also plenty of molded X1 Super-LumiNova on the dial, which if it glows anyth...

Jumping Hours With The Monsieur De Chanel Superleggera Intense Black And Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Fratello
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Apr 22, 2024

Jumping Hours With The Monsieur De Chanel Superleggera Intense Black And Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25

You’ve probably seen all the Watches and Wonders 2024 recap articles and read how this year’s releases weren’t the most exciting ones. But, as I’ve already stated in my “favorites” article, that certainly doesn’t mean there weren’t any releases worth mentioning. Today, I’d like to highlight two watches we haven’t yet covered here on Fratello. […] Visit Jumping Hours With The Monsieur De Chanel Superleggera Intense Black And Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 to read the full article.

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph Ti49, an Impressive Lightweight Take on the Integrated Bracelet Chrono Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Mar 19, 2024

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph Ti49, an Impressive Lightweight Take on the Integrated Bracelet Chrono

Don’t look now, but it feels like luxury watch brands are finally beginning to discover what many in the enthusiast community have known for quite some time, namely that titanium rules, and that given the proper attention, it can clean up pretty nicely and actually look quite refined. We recently saw Zenith debut their Chronomaster Sport in titanium, and it’s not really a surprise that their sportiest watch translates particularly well in the material. Now, just weeks later, Girard-Perregaux has unveiled a new Laureato Chronograph reference in titanium, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49.  While Girard-Perregaux has had other titanium Laureatos in their catalog, this is the first time the classic case profile has been presented in grade 5 titanium. That’s important, because the Laureato case is essential to understanding the watch. The chronograph case measures 42mm in diameter and is just 12mm tall, and the case is gentler and curvier than other integrated bracelet sports watches that were introduced in the same era (the Laureato was introduced in 1975). In steel, the Laureato Chronograph has an imposing heft, and you feel every ounce in that watch’s wrist presence. In titanium, the chronograph presents very differently, and has that shockingly light feeling that people who swear by titanium have always known and loved.  What’s special about this watch is that, similar to the Zenith linked above, Girard-Perregaux has paid special attention to the dial, picking a co...

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Worn & Wound
Hublot Mar 9, 2024

Arken Launches their First Limited Edition for British Watchmakers’ Day

As an avid lover of tool watches, there aren’t many brands that have caught my attention in the last few years quite like Arken. Part of the explosion of small independent watch brands coming out of the UK, Arken has been on my mind since the release of their first watch, the Instrumentum, in 2021. The Instrumentum was followed up by the Alterum last year and now Arken is releasing their first-ever limited edition; a new variant of the Alterum inspired by the Year of the Dragon - a popular source of inspiration over the last few months with everyone from Hublot to JLC getting in on the action. In technical terms, the Alterum Year of the Dragon is the same watch we were introduced to last year, and which is now starting to pop up on people’s wrists as delivery gets underway. The Year of the Dragon comes in the same 200m water-resistant 40mm grade 2 titanium case and is equipped with the same modified Miyota 9015 movement as the standard production variant (all of which you can read more about in Thomas Calara’s post introducing the watch back in June). The dial of the Year of the Dragon is where the differences between this limited edition and the standard model start to show themselves. The Year of the Dragon opts to replace the frosted black and anthracite dials of the standard release with a more exciting deep red, three-dimensional, textured, “blasted dragon scale” motif. I’ve never seen a dial quite like this before, and while the name alone would be enou...

Perpetually Yours: A Leap Day Guide to our Favorite QPs Worn & Wound
Feb 29, 2024

Perpetually Yours: A Leap Day Guide to our Favorite QPs

Once again, Leap Day is upon us. This is an important day for watch lovers, particularly those of us who admire complicated watches, as it gives those lucky enough to own a perpetual calendar an opportunity to observe them doing the thing they’re meant to do. Unlike the vast majority of watches with any kind of calendar complication, a perpetual calendar has already identified 2024 as a leap year, and will summarily display the first day of March without the need to advance the date. This, of course, is quite a mechanical feat, and one that only comes every four years, so it’s absolutely worth celebrating an event that is as rare as the Summer Olympics, a United States presidential election, and a new Bad Boys movie, all of which, for better or worse, we’re getting this year.  This Leap Day, we celebrate the perpetual calendar by selecting a few of our absolute favorites. Our selections below represent many different approaches to the perpetual, from rigorously simple to intentionally complex, formal to sporty, and many places in between. The perpetual calendar might not be the most accessible of complications, but we can still appreciate them, particularly when they’re having their big, quadrennial moment.  Zach Weiss  I feel very strongly about perpetual calendars. I fawn over them. I look them up late at night when I can’t sleep and drool about the possibilities of knowing not just the day, or the date, or the month, or the phase of the moon, but knowing al...

Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me Part III - What We Value in Watches Worn & Wound
Nov 6, 2023

Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me Part III - What We Value in Watches

In previous installments of “Selling Points,” contributor Nathan Schultz has examined the features of a watch that supposedly add value but aren’t necessarily needed, and watch related “deal breakers” that are widely expected in higher priced watches, but have little appeal to value conscious collectors. Here, in the third volume of the series, we open the topic up the wider roster of Worn & Wound contributors by asking what seems like a simple question: What do you value in a watch? Nathan Schultz Years ago, someone in a forum posed the following question: what do you look for in a watch? It’s a simple question, and my answer was equally straightforward. I quickly chimed in that I sought out the best spec per dollar ratio. Afterall, that was how I approached my entire life. I wanted the most reliable car for a reasonable monthly payment and the tastiest pizza on a Friday night without breaking the bank. It only made sense I would apply the same formula to watch collecting. Other responses did not share the same frugal sentiment. They focused on things like provenance and design- things I could have cared less about at the time. Looking back at that time when a sub $300 NH35 powered diver was all I needed, my simplified answer represented a preliminary phase in my horological journey. Since then, my opinions (some unpopular, if you have read the first two articles in this series) have become more complex. I still appreciate watches that offer capable specs for ...

Speake Marin’s New Openworked Sandblasted Ti is a Sign that the Early 2000s Indie Favorite is in the Midst of a Comeback Worn & Wound
Ming Oct 23, 2023

Speake Marin’s New Openworked Sandblasted Ti is a Sign that the Early 2000s Indie Favorite is in the Midst of a Comeback

Don’t look now, but it appears that one of the great names of early 2000s independent watchmaking is back with their feet under them, fully invested in making interesting and beautiful watches. Speake Marin, founded by Peter Speake-Marin in 2002, was one of those gateway brands for many collectors coming of age at around the time the brand got its start, thanks in no small part to the founder being one of the most well liked and enthusiastic spokespeople not only for their own brand, but for indie watchmaking in general, of that era. Speake Marin (the brand) has had some ups and downs since the departure of its founder in 2017, but recent efforts like the Dual Time (in a host of festive colors) and the Ripples (their oddly named but quite striking entry in the integrated bracelet sports watch genre) have garnered more attention than the brand has seen in quite some time. Their most recent release, the Openworked Sandblasted Ti. The One & Two Openworked line has become a signature in the larger Speake Marin catalog, consisting of, well, evocatively openworked dials that show off some seriously high level manufacturing. They also do a great job of calling attention to the intricately finished movements and the unusual geometry and layout of Speake Marin watches, which is the underlying factor in what makes this watch so striking. The running seconds between 1:00 and 2:00 is, of course, deeply unusual, as is the visible barrel from the dial side with an engraving of the bra...

9 Dungeons & Dragons races and the watches they’d wear Time+Tide
Aug 17, 2023

9 Dungeons & Dragons races and the watches they’d wear

The popularity of Dungeons & Dragons is at an all-time high, since nerd culture became pop culture and TV shows like Stranger Things boosted sales of D&D; starter kits by 250%. If you read my list about watches for goths, I’m sure you wouldn’t be surprised to hear I’m a long-term D&D; fan, and there … ContinuedThe post 9 Dungeons & Dragons races and the watches they’d wear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - D.O. Kasdan Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGP015 – $2,350 Dressy Jun 2, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - D.O. Kasdan

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader D.O. Kasdan brings us a collection we appreciate for its straightforward, no fuss approach and willingness to embrace options off the beaten path. Each of these watches are as capable as they are stylish and unique, with plenty of options for customization. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  My collection spans from regular G-Shock to GO, with plenty of oddities from Piaget, Omega, and Seiko, amongst others. While I would probably never get down to just a three watch collection, this is a good exercise in figuring out how to cover all the bases and still feel like you have something interesting to offer. For this group, I wanted to make sure it maximized functionality with some style. Damasko DC82 – $2,300 This is a rugged chronograph that does not require reading glasses to use effectively. Beyond the Damasko technologies and design, it is very wearable and can be brightened up with straps or custom ordering for hand color and bezel configuration. Grand Seiko SBGP015 – $2,350 Dressy but not formal, this HAQ with jump hour hand adjustment is great for travel, business, or even casual wear with sufficient 200M WR. The ceramic bezel might not be for everyone, but it works with the angular case and bracelet to give a glimpse of the many things that Grand Seiko can do in one coherent package. Wolbrook/Douglas Skindiver Automat...

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V “Magic T” SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces Apr 27, 2023

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V “Magic T”

Continuing with iterations on its bestseller, Urwerk has just taken the covers off the UR-100V “Magic T”. Retaining Urwerk’s signature wandering hours time display, the Magic T has both its case and matching bracelet in finely-blasted titanium, giving it a look that is distinct from the UR-100V “Full Metal Jacket” launched in 2021. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Magic T looks identical to its 2021 predecessor. Both are identical in design and share a matte titanium case and bracelet. But in person the Magic T is clearly different, even though it’s only the finishing of the titanium that differs. The Magic T has a finer, smoother finish that gives it a softer, more refined feel. This gives more tactile appeal than the Full Metal Jacket for me, so anyone who missed out on last year’s model should not have any regrets. That said, I hope Urwerk doesn’t do too many limited-edition variants of the UR-100V on a bracelet, because it would risk getting repetitive. For now, however, the runs are small enough and editions few enough that the model remains appealing and interesting. Finely “shotblasted” Unlike the Full Metal Jacket that was finished with a tangibly granular finish, the Magic T is entirely in “sanded shotblasted titanium”. In other words, it was blasted with smaller abrasive particles than those used for the Full Metal Jacket, resulting in its smoother, finer finish. The difference in finish is tactile enough that both watches feel differ...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Tanner T. Worn & Wound
Cartier Tank Must Solarbeat $2610 Apr 21, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Tanner T.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Tanner T. shares a tidy three watch collection that spans from some all-time classics, to some newcomers on the scene. There’s plenty of style here to enjoy, and even a reminder not to take ourselves too seriously. Best of all, this collection could come in under budget at the right spec. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I must admit this was a challenge, not because I am spoiled for choice (which we all are these days as watch enthusiasts), but because I actually aspire to not be a collector. Wearing and enjoying a single piece day in, day out is something I pursue and practice. There’s something rewarding about a watch so satisfying and inherently capable that it requires no stablemates. Now for the rest of us who live in reality and want to experience more, here are three watches that comprise a solid trio and share unique aspects about what keeps collecting interesting. Oh, and they all fit well under five thousand of your hard-earned buckaroos. Cartier Tank Must Solarbeat ($2610 in small, $2740 in large) Cartier’s reputation as the “Jeweler of Kings and King of Jewelers” is another way of suggesting they’re your favorite watch company’s favorite watch company (the folks at Jaeger LeCoultre are gonna love that). The storied maison has been on an incredible run over the last few years with reimagined hits li...

Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm Time+Tide
Norqain presents Apr 5, 2023

Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm

 Norqain introduces new Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41 Steel & Gold Hints of 18K 5N red gold are injected into the design through the bezel, hands, counters, and Norqain logo 100m water-resistant 41mm case, automatic day-date chronograph calibre Norqain has a very clear and specific lane for their watches: they must be robust, high-performing and … ContinuedThe post Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: New Czapek Antarctique timepieces presented by CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel Revolution
Czapek Antarctique timepieces presented Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: New Czapek Antarctique timepieces presented by CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel

A very young brand that has been widely acclaimed for its gorgeous dress watches, Czapek has achieved global success with its integrated bracelet watches. Here, the tireless Xavier de Roquemaurel, CEO of Czapek & Cie., presents novelties like the Antarctique Revelation to Revolution Founder Wei Koh. In this video, you’ll also get to see new […]

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Worn & Wound
Victorinox Gift Guide Feb 8, 2023

A Bright Red Victorinox Gift Guide for Valentine’s Day Giving

If you think about the typical Valentine’s Day gifts, whether it’s flowers or chocolates, they tend to lean on the temporary side of gifting. Here at Worn & Wound, we like our gifts to be much for long-lasting and put the fun into functional. So who wouldn’t love to get some bright red Victorinox gear to celebrate a day typically full of red bouquets that’ll decay or red boxes of sweets that’ll disappear more quickly than they probably should. We know we’d choose a Victorinox for Valentine’s Day. The post A Bright Red Victorinox Gift Guide for Valentine’s Day Giving appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts Proprietary M284 Movement SJX Watches
Feb 6, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts Proprietary M284 Movement

Highly regarded for its artisanal movement finish, Atelier de Chronométrie relied entirely on vintage movements that were rebuilt and then decorated by hand. Now the brand finally has a movement to call its own with the M284. Vintage inspired like its timepieces, the M284 is a hand-wind calibre that makes its debut inside the AdC22 wristwatch. Initial thoughts AdC started out with watches that were equipped with refinished vintage movements that were beautifully decorated but not quite original enough to be special. The new proprietary movement – which has both fine finishing and tasteful design – elevates the brand to another level entirely. The classical layout, frequency, and short power reserve of just 38 hours seem to imply that the movement might be derived from a vintage ebauche, or at least built according to the architecture of a vintage movement. However, AdC states that the movement is a new construction done with the help of a specialist. Regardless of its origins, the M284 is a calibre executed well both in terms of design and decoration, as would be expected given AdC’s past work. Having examined several of prior AdC watches in detail, I imagine the M284 is finished extremely well and certainly on part with equivalent offerings from contemporary independent watchmakers. But AdC has the advantage of Mr Martinez’s aesthetic sensibility, which is perhaps even rarer than good movement decoration today. The design is clearly vintage inspired, but with sub...

Workhorse makeover: “Off the shelf” calibres can be pretty too - ETA/Peseux 7001 Edition Time+Tide
Dec 17, 2022

Workhorse makeover: “Off the shelf” calibres can be pretty too - ETA/Peseux 7001 Edition

One thing watch enthusiasts often do is dismiss “off the shelf” calibres. The allure and buzz of “in-house” movements has cast a dismissing shadow over mass-produced calibres. But, like many other things in life, sometimes it is more about how you use it than anything else. I will not deny it, standard ETA and Sellita … ContinuedThe post Workhorse makeover: “Off the shelf” calibres can be pretty too – ETA/Peseux 7001 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.