Hodinkee
Culture Of Time: The Father-Daughter Duo Keeping Horology Haute At Parmigiani Fleurier
In anticipation of Father's Day, we sat down with Michel and Anne-Laure Parmigiani to discuss what it's like working together.
Results for Lug-to-Lug
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Why lug-to-lug matters more than diameter (and how to actually pick a watch that fits)
Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.
Wiki · Guide
Lug-to-Lug
The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
Hodinkee
Time+Tide
The Collector’s Crossroads - How do you work out whether to stick or twist?
Let’s set the scene. You walk into the boutique, knowing today is the day. The wallet is about to get a little lighter, and a spot in the watch box will be filled – but you’ve got a great excuse. Whether you’re celebrating your birthday, a promotion or Heimlich Manoeuvre Day (no joke, look it … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads – How do you work out whether to stick or twist? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Presage Day-Date in Green Urushi
A proponent of Japanese artisanal crafts, Seiko has just taken the covers off the latest watch decorated with traditional Japanese lacquer, the Presage Craftsmanship Series Urushi Dial Limited Edition ref. SPB295J1. Though both the craft and complications aren’t novel, the SPB295J1 is unusual for its triple retrograde display in a symmetrical layout, which is combined with a dial in dark olive urushi with and gold-powder details. Initial thoughts Like the recent pair of time-only watches with porcelain dials, the SPB295 is one of the more elegant watches in the Presage Craftsmanship line. I like the look of the SPB295 – the symmetry and uniformity make it more appealing than the standard Presage day-date watches that rely on a mix of fan-shaped and round sub-dials for the indicators. Adding to the appeal of the balanced dial layout is the colour. While green is a faddish colour now, it is executed with subtle style here; it’s an understated, dark hue that Seiko accurately describes as evoking a moss garden. And the sprinkle of gold is a nice touch – and a typical feature of traditional Japanese lacquerware – without which the dial the dial might have looked plain. My only gripe is the unusually small “31” at the end of the date scale, as well as the fact that the date numerals are four days apart, making it difficult to read the dates in between. Beyond the colour, the watch stands out for the dial layout. Unlike most Seiko Presage day-date watches, the S...
Time+Tide
The new M.A.D.1 RED brings the coveted MB&F; project to a wider audience
Usually the hottest watches of the year have huge launch events, major press conferences and keynotes, and sizable social media and marketing campaigns. But last year, like Beyonce dropping a surprise album, the team at MB&F; introduced one of the most desired timepieces of the year – except it was not a watch just anyone … ContinuedThe post The new M.A.D.1 RED brings the coveted MB&F; project to a wider audience appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
M.A.D.1 Friends Edition From (Not By) MB&F;: Why I Bought It, Why You Can’t (Not Yet Anyway), And Why It’s A Marketing Masterclass - Plus Video of Max Büsser Explaining The Watch And Concept - Reprise
Ian Skellern generally likes relatively restrained, traditional, high-end watches that are not too big for his small wrists. So with its large, high case, blingy, spinning “LOOK AT ME!” rotor on top, and mass-market Miyota movement, the M.A.D.1 ticks all of the boxes on his “may be interesting, but not for me” list. Here he explains why he bought one anyway and his first impressions.
Time+Tide
It’s tennis season and we have a handful of the “Stan Smith Signature Watch” Limited Edition by Maurice de Mauriac for sale at a great price
Editor’s note: One of the great things about dropping in on a brand’s HQ is that you invariably learn things you never would normally. On a recent visit, I discovered a lot about Maurice de Mauriac and the Dreifuss family, Daniel, the father, and Leonard and Massimo, the sons. And mostly it is this: they are completely crazy. Like … ContinuedThe post It’s tennis season and we have a handful of the “Stan Smith Signature Watch” Limited Edition by Maurice de Mauriac for sale at a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
DOXA dives back into their 80s catalogue with the updated 600T collection
Imagine you’re heading out for a swim or a surf… the sun’s beating down and you have the day to yourself. You glance down to grab the time off your trusty (and waterproof) brightly-coloured watch… When we discuss a brand like DOXA, it’s those fun colours and designs that bring to mind scenes like that. … ContinuedThe post DOXA dives back into their 80s catalogue with the updated 600T collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Daytona
Last week we began our “Don’t Feed the Hype” series and, based on your feedback, many of you are on board with this idea of exposing potential alternatives to largely unobtainable watches. To be clear, this is not a take down of watches like the Nautilus or Royal Oak. We love these pieces we are … ContinuedThe post DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Cheap Bastard: The Swatch Bioceramic C-White is an oversized bargain that’s eco-friendly, too
If you’ve already turned your horological nose up at the S word in the headline above, please remind yourself of the title of this column. T&T; teems with timepieces that will set back four, five and even six figures – if that’s you, congrats on the start-up/inheritance/proceeds of crime. If, however, you feel like adding … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Swatch Bioceramic C-White is an oversized bargain that’s eco-friendly, too appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bollinger R.D. 2007 Champagne: Recently Disgorged, Ready To Drink Now, And Likely To Get Better And Better
Bollinger’s latest release, the 2007 R.D. or, more specifically, the 2007 “Récemment Dégorgé” (“Recently Disgorged”), is the house's flagship wine. It is still early days for the 2007 R.D., and it is perhaps not exhibiting anything like the truffle and mushroom notes that should come in the years ahead. But Ken Gargett thinks it's already great to drink now and rates it 97/100.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The dark panache of the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud
The Bol d’Or Mirabaud is the world’s biggest inland lake regatta, running the length of Lake Geneva, and Hublot is celebrating its eighth consecutive year as official timekeeper, with a brand new version of its 45mm Classic Fusion Chronograph, the Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud. Hublot knows how to pluck at our heartstrings, with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The dark panache of the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Watches And Wonders 2021 (Formerly SIHH) Round Table: What We Liked And What We Didn’t (With Photofest And Videos)
Please join this Quill & Pad round table discussion in which we discuss what we did and didn’t like at the inaugural (and hopefully final) digital edition of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2021. There were plenty of highs and more than a few lows during the week-long watch fest, and a sheer avalanche of new watches.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Winners at 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève
Having just taken place in Geneva and broadcast live, the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) ceremony anointed most of the year’s best watches. Whittled down from a large selection to candidates that were evaluated by an all-Swiss jury instead of the usual cosmopolitan mix due to travel restrictions, eighteen watches (and one watchmaker) received prizes. A handful of them are worth a look as worthy winners – albeit winning by default in some of the less competitive categories – as well as a notable watch that did not win but should have. Awarded to the best watch of the contest, the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix, went to the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept. The thinnest mechanical watch on the market, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) is the culmination of all the progress in ultra-thin watchmaking over the last several decades. At an unreal 2 mm high, the AUC pushes engineering to the cutting edge, albeit at an extremely high price. While there were other watches in the competition that could reasonably be candidates for the Aiguille d’Or, the AUC has earned it. The Piaget AUC Complications and revelations Another prestigious award is the Horological Revelation Prize, which is awarded at the discretion of the jury to watch made by a nascent brand. It went to the Petermann Bédat 1967, unquestionably one of the highlights of independent watchmaking this year. Well deserving of the prize, the 1967 is simply marvellous (we explain why here). Thoug...
SJX Watches
Hermès Introduces the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in Titanium
Originally introduced in pricier precious metals – in gold and also platinum – the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel has been given a makeover that renders it more affordable, and arguably more striking. And like last year’s time-only Slim d’Hermès, the key feature is a titanium case. The new perpetual calendar features a twin-metal case made up of a titanium middle along with the bezel, crown, and pushers in either rose gold or platinum. That, combined with the two-tone grey dial, gives it a modern look that goes well with the Slim d’Hermès font that was designed specifically for the model. The Slim d’Hermes font was created by graphic designer Philippe Apeloig to go with the eponymous watch Initial thoughts Hermes’ house style is always elegant, often quirky, and usually distinctive. Already the Slim d’Hermes design is slim and wears well, and probably slightly better in this iteration since the use of titanium would reduce reduce its weight. A simple design characterised by clean lines, the Slim d’Hermes is recognisable in all its iterations thanks to its smart details, like the angled lugs and custom typography. Though the layout of the perpetual calendar is fairly conventional – everything is arranged into four sub-dials – it manages to be slightly unusual thanks to the seemingly random armament of numerals for the second time zone at six, a minor, offbeat detail that is in keeping with the brand’s style. The titanium-and-platinum versi...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The dark traveller, Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève
The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève is an unabashedly large futuristic dark metropolis under sapphire. I see an angular maze-like horological architecture within an organic patterned cutting-edge composite case. Hypnotised by the 9 o’clock rotating magic of the Flying Tourbillon you’ll notice it being delicately cut into the dark and recognisable … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The dark traveller, Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Chronometry Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is United, But Not Unanimous
In the GPHG Chronometry category, we find mechanical watches that contain at least one tourbillon, and/or a special escapement, and/or another development improving precision timekeeping. What we don't find, though, is much hard data regarding precision like timing test results or in most cases even a second hand. Precision watches without a second hand? Despite that, our panel predicts a clear winner.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge
Having unveiled mostly simpler watches in the year so far, like the new Tradition with retrograde date, Breguet is now launching something big, both mechanically and literally. The Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge is, admittedly, a heavily fancied up variant of an existing model, but in typical Breguet style, it is executed to a high level of fit and finish. Originally launched in 2006 as the ref. 5347 with a guilloche dial (and subsequently as the ref. 5349 set with diamonds), the Classique Double Tourbillon has been refined and elaborated upon. It now boasts a skeletonised dial with upgraded decoration, hand-engraved bridges, as well as a thinner case band, but the watch remains enormous. Initial thoughts The original Double Tourbillon was enormous – 44 mm by 17.05 mm – with a tall, bulbous bezel that made it look even thicker. Named after the located of the original Breguet workshops in Paris, the new Double Tourbillon 5345 addresses that as much as possible by narrowing the bezel case band as much as possible, and instead using an highly-domed sapphire crystal that’s almost half the total height. It’s still a very large watch, but it looks less voluminous and massive, especially with the open-worked dial. The sapphire chapter ring for the hours and minutes that encircles the movement Decoration and materials are top class. There is a lot of decoration, but it goes well together, unlike on the original model. The decor seemed incongruous o...
Time+Tide
We asked the Longines VP of Marketing lots of questions about the new Spirit collection so you don’t have to
The Longines Spirit release is a totally new collection this year, something that is already very exciting in and of itself, but also because it’s an entirely new chapter for the brand. Longines, just like many of the finest watchmakers in the world, slowly improve their watches over time and rarely release entirely new collections, … ContinuedThe post We asked the Longines VP of Marketing lots of questions about the new Spirit collection so you don’t have to appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Grand Prix de Monaco Historique
Having been appointed official timekeeper of the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique just before it was cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic, TAG Heuer has nonetheless unveiled the watch created for the event – the Monaco Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has a bewildering array of Monaco models in its line up, several of which look identical but are actually powered by different movements. It’s difficult to distinguish between them, making them individually less interesting. Set against that, the new Monaco is a standout watch with a two-tone, red-and-silver dial. The dial is essentially a circle within a square, and its subsidiary seconds at six has been made to blend into the dial, creating a strong, concise symmetry. Importantly, it is powered by the in-house and thoroughly competent Calibre Heuer 02 movement, rather than the ETA 2892-based Calibre 12 found in other Monaco models. Red and white Organised by the Automobile Club de Monaco (ACM), Grand Prix de Monaco Historique is an annual racing event that traditionally takes place before the Formula One Grand Prix. Only vintage Grand Prix cars, typically dating from the 1930s to the 1970s, take part in the event. The common red-and-white livery common on historical race cars inspired the dial of the new Monaco, which also happens to be in the colours of the Monegasque coat of arms. And the dial also includes a discreet Grand Prix de Monaco Historique logo in between one an...
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Santos de Cartier ADLC
After unveiling the glow-in-the-dark Santos Skeleton ADLC “Noctambule” last year, Cartier debuts the similar, but simpler, Santos de Cartier ADLC at Watches & Wonders 2020. The new Santos actually revives a look the brand first rolled out in 2009 with the Santos 100 ADLC, which was the brand’s first use of amorphous diamond-like carbon (ADLC) as a case coating. A nano-composite coating, ADLC possesses diamond-like properties, including high corrosion and scratch resistance, improving the robustness of the watch case. But like all coatings it can detach if the material below is dented or scratched deeply. All-black (left), or a combination of natural-finish steel and ADLC-coating Shades of black Like the Skeleton ADLC “Noctambule”, the Santos ADLC is available only in the largest LM case that’s 47.5 mm by 39.8 mm on the face and a height of 9.38 mm, making it a big but relatively slim watch. It is available in two iterations: all-black ADLC-coated steel, or two-tone steel with an ADLC bezel. While the case dimensions are identical to the standard Santos, the new models have a low-key matte finish. The bezel is brushed, instead of the mirror polish found on the standard model, with only the bevels along the edge of the case being polished. The steel model features a dark grey dial which matches the shade of the ADLC coating on the bezel. Though the dial is a single colour, it appears two-tone due to the surface finishing – vertical brushing on the inner dia...
Quill & Pad
International Women’s Day Special: Meet Rebecca Struthers, An Old-Fashioned English Watchmaker, Sort Of - Reprise
For International Women's Day, I'd like to introduce you to Rebecca Struthers, the most academic and studied watchmaker in horological history. And she has the singular honor of achieving the very first doctorate in horology. This is a very modern watchmaker with a rather old-fashioned way of doing things.
Time+Tide
“As swimmers, everything we do revolves around time” Olympic champ Kyle Chalmers teams up with TAG Heuer
The worst brand associations feel like they’ve been hatched in drunken brainstorms at the end of a very long day. There seems zero reason to attach the celebrity to the product, beyond a marketing budget that urgently needs to be spent. Thankfully, TAG Heuer’s decision to partner up with Kyle Chalmers isn’t like that at … ContinuedThe post “As swimmers, everything we do revolves around time” Olympic champ Kyle Chalmers teams up with TAG Heuer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Timegraph By Caran d’Ache Puts A Whole New Spin On The Pen/Watch Combo
Caran d'Ache's Timegraph is set to please both pen and watch aficionados as the perfect combination of both worlds. It will also appeal to those who are looking for unique and rare pieces to accompany them throughout their entire lives. Take a look at this interesting item right here.
SJX Watches
Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Reveals 2019 Finalists
The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is at its starting block: 84 watches have been shortlisted across 14 categories, all vying for one of the year’s awards. This year’s categories include the usual like Men’s Complication, Chronometry, Mechanical Exception, and Challenge (for adorable watches under 4,000 Swiss francs), but also grows to encompass two new categories, Divers and Iconic. But the top prize of the evening remains the Aiguille d’Or, or “golden hand”, which is the best of show. Given the number of independent brands that found success at the 2018 contest – of the 16 prizes, nine were awarded to independents, with Bovet scooping the Aiguille d’Or – the watches in contention this year include a broad spectrum of independent watchmaking, from establishment names like MB&F; to newcomers like Alchemists. The 30-member jury, composed of the industry notables like auctioneer Aurel Bacs, watchmaker Philippe Dufour, Jack Forster of Hodinkee, and also our founder Jiaxian Su, will meet to evaluate the watches and cast their vote by secret ballot in the week before the prize ceremony in November. At end September, the watches will soon go on a world tour, prior to the awards ceremony on November 7 at the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva. (The tour calendar is at the end of the article.) Here’s the finalists, by category: Ladies (From left to right, top to bottom) 1. Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Pink Gold and Diamonds 2. Chanel J12 Calibre 12....
Time+Tide
Just because - the incredible Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon ‘Poinçon de Genève’
Earlier this year, Andrew spent some (very) quality time in New Zealand with Louis Vuitton and some of their most serious watchmaking. If you haven’t seen the video, it’s definitely worth a look (as is this one), but we reckon this watch, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon ‘Poinçon de Genève’ is worth a … ContinuedThe post Just because – the incredible Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon ‘Poinçon de Genève’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Vintage Heuer is through the roof, so why isn’t my new TAG Heuer worth more? Biver responds
If you look at the last two years, the price of vintage Heuer has rocketed, but so far the uplift has not raised all boats on the modern TAG Heuer and Heuer tide. David Chalmers, founder of Calibre 11, the “home of TAG Heuer and vintage Heuer collectors”, asks the CEO of TAG Heuer, Jean-Claude … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Vintage Heuer is through the roof, so why isn’t my new TAG Heuer worth more? Biver responds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
LIST: 5 watches we’d love to see - our Baselworld 2018 predictions
Last year, Andy and I put together a fun little speculative list on heritage reissues we’d like to see in 2018. It was a fun story, so we thought we’d revisit it - with a Basel twist. We sat down over some cold brew (coffee, not beer) and hashed out our wish list of Basel releases, … ContinuedThe post LIST: 5 watches we’d love to see – our Baselworld 2018 predictions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Exceptionally classic - the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat
Editor’s note: We’re very much on the record as being proud members of team Drive, so it was with real excitement that we had a look at the new models shown off at SIHH at the start of this year. And while the Moon Phases probably has the edge in terms of everyday wearability, when it … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exceptionally classic – the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Richard Mille at Les Voiles de St Barth: A Race Against Time
Founded in 2010 by François Tolède and Luc Poupon, the Richard Mille-sponsored Les Voiles de St Barth is now established as one of most important regattas in the world. Earlier this year, the eighth edition of the event was held with close to 70 boats from 20 different countries on the starting line. Among those taking part were Peter Harrison – CEO of Richard Mille Europe, Middle East and Africa – and crew, aboard his TP52 yacht Sorcha. Revolution was there to cheer him on and to talk about the thrill of the race.
Time+Tide
EVENT: Epic watches and why the Australian market matters - the Sydney Hour Glass GTG with Michael Tay
The concept of GTGs, or G2Gs, or get togethers in plain english, is a staple of the Instagram handled, Facebook-inhabiting individuals known collectively as ‘the watch fam’. For all that the growth of watch collecting and connoisseurship has been driven by digital platforms, there’s nothing quite like meeting like-minded people in person, calling them by … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Epic watches and why the Australian market matters - the Sydney Hour Glass GTG with Michael Tay appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.