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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V “Magic T” SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces Apr 27, 2023

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V “Magic T”

Continuing with iterations on its bestseller, Urwerk has just taken the covers off the UR-100V “Magic T”. Retaining Urwerk’s signature wandering hours time display, the Magic T has both its case and matching bracelet in finely-blasted titanium, giving it a look that is distinct from the UR-100V “Full Metal Jacket” launched in 2021. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Magic T looks identical to its 2021 predecessor. Both are identical in design and share a matte titanium case and bracelet. But in person the Magic T is clearly different, even though it’s only the finishing of the titanium that differs. The Magic T has a finer, smoother finish that gives it a softer, more refined feel. This gives more tactile appeal than the Full Metal Jacket for me, so anyone who missed out on last year’s model should not have any regrets. That said, I hope Urwerk doesn’t do too many limited-edition variants of the UR-100V on a bracelet, because it would risk getting repetitive. For now, however, the runs are small enough and editions few enough that the model remains appealing and interesting. Finely “shotblasted” Unlike the Full Metal Jacket that was finished with a tangibly granular finish, the Magic T is entirely in “sanded shotblasted titanium”. In other words, it was blasted with smaller abrasive particles than those used for the Full Metal Jacket, resulting in its smoother, finer finish. The difference in finish is tactile enough that both watches feel differ...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Tanner T. Worn & Wound
Cartier Tank Must Solarbeat $2610 Apr 21, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Tanner T.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Tanner T. shares a tidy three watch collection that spans from some all-time classics, to some newcomers on the scene. There’s plenty of style here to enjoy, and even a reminder not to take ourselves too seriously. Best of all, this collection could come in under budget at the right spec. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I must admit this was a challenge, not because I am spoiled for choice (which we all are these days as watch enthusiasts), but because I actually aspire to not be a collector. Wearing and enjoying a single piece day in, day out is something I pursue and practice. There’s something rewarding about a watch so satisfying and inherently capable that it requires no stablemates. Now for the rest of us who live in reality and want to experience more, here are three watches that comprise a solid trio and share unique aspects about what keeps collecting interesting. Oh, and they all fit well under five thousand of your hard-earned buckaroos. Cartier Tank Must Solarbeat ($2610 in small, $2740 in large) Cartier’s reputation as the “Jeweler of Kings and King of Jewelers” is another way of suggesting they’re your favorite watch company’s favorite watch company (the folks at Jaeger LeCoultre are gonna love that). The storied maison has been on an incredible run over the last few years with reimagined hits li...

Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm Time+Tide
Norqain presents Apr 5, 2023

Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm

 Norqain introduces new Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41 Steel & Gold Hints of 18K 5N red gold are injected into the design through the bezel, hands, counters, and Norqain logo 100m water-resistant 41mm case, automatic day-date chronograph calibre Norqain has a very clear and specific lane for their watches: they must be robust, high-performing and … ContinuedThe post Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: New Czapek Antarctique timepieces presented by CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel Revolution
Czapek Antarctique timepieces presented Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: New Czapek Antarctique timepieces presented by CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel

A very young brand that has been widely acclaimed for its gorgeous dress watches, Czapek has achieved global success with its integrated bracelet watches. Here, the tireless Xavier de Roquemaurel, CEO of Czapek & Cie., presents novelties like the Antarctique Revelation to Revolution Founder Wei Koh. In this video, you’ll also get to see new […]

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Victorinox Gift Guide Feb 8, 2023

A Bright Red Victorinox Gift Guide for Valentine’s Day Giving

If you think about the typical Valentine’s Day gifts, whether it’s flowers or chocolates, they tend to lean on the temporary side of gifting. Here at Worn & Wound, we like our gifts to be much for long-lasting and put the fun into functional. So who wouldn’t love to get some bright red Victorinox gear to celebrate a day typically full of red bouquets that’ll decay or red boxes of sweets that’ll disappear more quickly than they probably should. We know we’d choose a Victorinox for Valentine’s Day. The post A Bright Red Victorinox Gift Guide for Valentine’s Day Giving appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts Proprietary M284 Movement SJX Watches
Feb 6, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts Proprietary M284 Movement

Highly regarded for its artisanal movement finish, Atelier de Chronométrie relied entirely on vintage movements that were rebuilt and then decorated by hand. Now the brand finally has a movement to call its own with the M284. Vintage inspired like its timepieces, the M284 is a hand-wind calibre that makes its debut inside the AdC22 wristwatch. Initial thoughts AdC started out with watches that were equipped with refinished vintage movements that were beautifully decorated but not quite original enough to be special. The new proprietary movement – which has both fine finishing and tasteful design – elevates the brand to another level entirely. The classical layout, frequency, and short power reserve of just 38 hours seem to imply that the movement might be derived from a vintage ebauche, or at least built according to the architecture of a vintage movement. However, AdC states that the movement is a new construction done with the help of a specialist. Regardless of its origins, the M284 is a calibre executed well both in terms of design and decoration, as would be expected given AdC’s past work. Having examined several of prior AdC watches in detail, I imagine the M284 is finished extremely well and certainly on part with equivalent offerings from contemporary independent watchmakers. But AdC has the advantage of Mr Martinez’s aesthetic sensibility, which is perhaps even rarer than good movement decoration today. The design is clearly vintage inspired, but with sub...

Workhorse makeover: “Off the shelf” calibres can be pretty too – ETA/Peseux 7001 Edition Time+Tide
Dec 17, 2022

Workhorse makeover: “Off the shelf” calibres can be pretty too – ETA/Peseux 7001 Edition

One thing watch enthusiasts often do is dismiss “off the shelf” calibres. The allure and buzz of “in-house” movements has cast a dismissing shadow over mass-produced calibres. But, like many other things in life, sometimes it is more about how you use it than anything else. I will not deny it, standard ETA and Sellita … ContinuedThe post Workhorse makeover: “Off the shelf” calibres can be pretty too – ETA/Peseux 7001 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Collector’s Crossroads – How do you work out whether to stick or twist? Time+Tide
Jun 5, 2022

The Collector’s Crossroads – How do you work out whether to stick or twist?

Let’s set the scene. You walk into the boutique, knowing today is the day. The wallet is about to get a little lighter, and a spot in the watch box will be filled – but you’ve got a great excuse. Whether you’re celebrating your birthday, a promotion or Heimlich Manoeuvre Day (no joke, look it … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads – How do you work out whether to stick or twist? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Presage Day-Date in Green Urushi SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces May 26, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Presage Day-Date in Green Urushi

A proponent of Japanese artisanal crafts, Seiko has just taken the covers off the latest watch decorated with traditional Japanese lacquer, the Presage Craftsmanship Series Urushi Dial Limited Edition ref. SPB295J1. Though both the craft and complications aren’t novel, the SPB295J1 is unusual for its triple retrograde display in a symmetrical layout, which is combined with a dial in dark olive urushi with and gold-powder details. Initial thoughts Like the recent pair of time-only watches with porcelain dials, the SPB295 is one of the more elegant watches in the Presage Craftsmanship line. I like the look of the SPB295 – the symmetry and uniformity make it more appealing than the standard Presage day-date watches that rely on a mix of fan-shaped and round sub-dials for the indicators. Adding to the appeal of the balanced dial layout is the colour. While green is a faddish colour now, it is executed with subtle style here; it’s an understated, dark hue that Seiko accurately describes as evoking a moss garden. And the sprinkle of gold is a nice touch – and a typical feature of traditional Japanese lacquerware – without which the dial the dial might have looked plain. My only gripe is the unusually small “31” at the end of the date scale, as well as the fact that the date numerals are four days apart, making it difficult to read the dates in between. Beyond the colour, the watch stands out for the dial layout. Unlike most Seiko Presage day-date watches, the S...

The new M.A.D.1 RED brings the coveted MB&F; project to a wider audience Time+Tide
MB&F; Mar 22, 2022

The new M.A.D.1 RED brings the coveted MB&F; project to a wider audience

Usually the hottest watches of the year have huge launch events, major press conferences and keynotes, and sizable social media and marketing campaigns. But last year, like Beyonce dropping a surprise album, the team at MB&F; introduced one of the most desired timepieces of the year – except it was not a watch just anyone … ContinuedThe post The new M.A.D.1 RED brings the coveted MB&F; project to a wider audience appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

M.A.D.1 Friends Edition From (Not By) MB&F;: Why I Bought It, Why You Can’t (Not Yet Anyway), And Why It’s A Marketing Masterclass – Plus Video of Max Büsser Explaining The Watch And Concept – Reprise Quill & Pad
MB&F; Mar 20, 2022

M.A.D.1 Friends Edition From (Not By) MB&F;: Why I Bought It, Why You Can’t (Not Yet Anyway), And Why It’s A Marketing Masterclass – Plus Video of Max Büsser Explaining The Watch And Concept – Reprise

Ian Skellern generally likes relatively restrained, traditional, high-end watches that are not too big for his small wrists. So with its large, high case, blingy, spinning “LOOK AT ME!” rotor on top, and mass-market Miyota movement, the M.A.D.1 ticks all of the boxes on his “may be interesting, but not for me” list. Here he explains why he bought one anyway and his first impressions.

It’s tennis season and we have a handful of the “Stan Smith Signature Watch” Limited Edition by Maurice de Mauriac for sale at a great price Time+Tide
Jan 24, 2022

It’s tennis season and we have a handful of the “Stan Smith Signature Watch” Limited Edition by Maurice de Mauriac for sale at a great price

Editor’s note: One of the great things about dropping in on a brand’s HQ is that you invariably learn things you never would normally. On a recent visit, I discovered a lot about Maurice de Mauriac and the Dreifuss family, Daniel, the father, and Leonard and Massimo, the sons. And mostly it is this: they are completely crazy. Like … ContinuedThe post It’s tennis season and we have a handful of the “Stan Smith Signature Watch” Limited Edition by Maurice de Mauriac for sale at a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

DOXA dives back into their 80s catalogue with the updated 600T collection Time+Tide
Doxa dives back into their Nov 30, 2021

DOXA dives back into their 80s catalogue with the updated 600T collection

Imagine you’re heading out for a swim or a surf… the sun’s beating down and you have the day to yourself. You glance down to grab the time off your trusty (and waterproof) brightly-coloured watch… When we discuss a brand like DOXA, it’s those fun colours and designs that bring to mind scenes like that. … ContinuedThe post DOXA dives back into their 80s catalogue with the updated 600T collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Daytona Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona Last week we Aug 11, 2021

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Daytona

Last week we began our “Don’t Feed the Hype” series and, based on your feedback, many of you are on board with this idea of exposing potential alternatives to largely unobtainable watches. To be clear, this is not a take down of watches like the Nautilus or Royal Oak. We love these pieces we are … ContinuedThe post DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cheap Bastard: The Swatch Bioceramic C-White is an oversized bargain that’s eco-friendly, too Time+Tide
Swatch Jun 21, 2021

Cheap Bastard: The Swatch Bioceramic C-White is an oversized bargain that’s eco-friendly, too

If you’ve already turned your horological nose up at the S word in the headline above, please remind yourself of the title of this column. T&T; teems with timepieces that will set back four, five and even six figures – if that’s you, congrats on the start-up/inheritance/proceeds of crime. If, however, you feel like adding … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Swatch Bioceramic C-White is an oversized bargain that’s eco-friendly, too appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bollinger R.D. 2007 Champagne: Recently Disgorged, Ready To Drink Now, And Likely To Get Better And Better Quill & Pad
Jun 15, 2021

Bollinger R.D. 2007 Champagne: Recently Disgorged, Ready To Drink Now, And Likely To Get Better And Better

Bollinger’s latest release, the 2007 R.D. or, more specifically, the 2007 “Récemment Dégorgé” (“Recently Disgorged”), is the house's flagship wine. It is still early days for the 2007 R.D., and it is perhaps not exhibiting anything like the truffle and mushroom notes that should come in the years ahead. But Ken Gargett thinks it's already great to drink now and rates it 97/100.

INTRODUCING: The dark panache of the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud Time+Tide
Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol Jun 10, 2021

INTRODUCING: The dark panache of the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud

The Bol d’Or Mirabaud is the world’s biggest inland lake regatta, running the length of Lake Geneva, and Hublot is celebrating its eighth consecutive year as official timekeeper, with a brand new version of its 45mm Classic Fusion Chronograph, the Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud. Hublot knows how to pluck at our heartstrings, with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The dark panache of the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Winners at 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève SJX Watches
Piaget  Altiplano Ultimate Concept Nov 13, 2020

Highlights: Winners at 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

Having just taken place in Geneva and broadcast live, the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) ceremony anointed most of the year’s best watches. Whittled down from a large selection to candidates that were evaluated by an all-Swiss jury instead of the usual cosmopolitan mix due to travel restrictions, eighteen watches (and one watchmaker) received prizes. A handful of them are worth a look as worthy winners – albeit winning by default in some of the less competitive categories – as well as a notable watch that did not win but should have. Awarded to the best watch of the contest, the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix, went to the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept. The thinnest mechanical watch on the market, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) is the culmination of all the progress in ultra-thin watchmaking over the last several decades. At an unreal 2 mm high, the AUC pushes engineering to the cutting edge, albeit at an extremely high price. While there were other watches in the competition that could reasonably be candidates for the Aiguille d’Or, the AUC has earned it. The Piaget AUC Complications and revelations Another prestigious award is the Horological Revelation Prize, which is awarded at the discretion of the jury to watch made by a nascent brand. It went to the Petermann Bédat 1967, unquestionably one of the highlights of independent watchmaking this year. Well deserving of the prize, the 1967 is simply marvellous (we explain why here). Thoug...

Hermès Introduces the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in Titanium SJX Watches
Hermes font was created Nov 12, 2020

Hermès Introduces the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in Titanium

Originally introduced in pricier precious metals – in gold and also platinum – the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel has been given a makeover that renders it more affordable, and arguably more striking. And like last year’s time-only Slim d’Hermès, the key feature is a titanium case. The new perpetual calendar features a twin-metal case made up of a titanium middle along with the bezel, crown, and pushers in either rose gold or platinum. That, combined with the two-tone grey dial, gives it a modern look that goes well with the Slim d’Hermès font that was designed specifically for the model. The Slim d’Hermes font was created by graphic designer Philippe Apeloig to go with the eponymous watch Initial thoughts Hermes’ house style is always elegant, often quirky, and usually distinctive. Already the Slim d’Hermes design is slim and wears well, and probably slightly better in this iteration since the use of titanium would reduce reduce its weight. A simple design characterised by clean lines, the Slim d’Hermes is recognisable in all its iterations thanks to its smart details, like the angled lugs and custom typography. Though the layout of the perpetual calendar is fairly conventional – everything is arranged into four sub-dials – it manages to be slightly unusual thanks to the seemingly random armament of numerals for the second time zone at six, a minor, offbeat detail that is in keeping with the brand’s style. The titanium-and-platinum versi...

HANDS-ON: The dark traveller, Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton s Tambour Curve Flying Nov 2, 2020

HANDS-ON: The dark traveller, Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève

The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève is an unabashedly large futuristic dark metropolis under sapphire. I see an angular maze-like horological architecture within an organic patterned cutting-edge composite case. Hypnotised by the 9 o’clock rotating magic of the Flying Tourbillon you’ll notice it being delicately cut into the dark and recognisable … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The dark traveller, Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.