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The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Once Again Nearly Unanimous

Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Once Again Nearly Unanimous

Complicated ladies' watches are not as rare as they once were, and the best thing is that they are not converted men's watches anymore but purposely designed and built specifically for female wrists. While there are a lot of absolutely stunning watches in the Ladies Complication category this year, they aren't that complicated and there are quite a few tourbillons. Nonetheless, our panel reaches something of a consensus.

You Can’t Ask That: A new conversation series with Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds of topics

Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds Sep 21, 2021

You Can’t Ask That: A new conversation series with Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds of topics

You Can’t Ask That, Part 1: Why are AP collections always so controversial when they launch? Introducing a conversation series on YouTube… This is the first video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. The title refers to how direct … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: A new conversation series with Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds of topics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Batman Day: Check Out These 5 Watch Stories Involving The Dark Knight In One Way Or Another

Batman Day: Check Out These 5 Watch Stories Involving The Dark Knight In One Way Or Another

Did you know that Batman Day is actually a thing? In honor of Batman Day on September 18, here are five stories Quill & Pad has done over the years invoking either the image or the name of one of DC Comics’ highest-grossing franchise characters: Batman!

Hermès Takes Flight With The Arceau Toucan De Paradis

Hermes Sep 16, 2021

Hermès Takes Flight With The Arceau Toucan De Paradis

The Hermès Arceau has been used as the canvas for many remarkable artistic dial techniques, including wood marquetry, glass art, leather, and miniature painting. The Arceau Toucan de Paradis Nancy Olson highlights here uses vibrant silk thread and enamel to tell its colorful and exotic story.

Complete List And Photos Of All Shortlisted Watches In The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)

Complete List And Photos Of All Shortlisted Watches In The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)

The 2021 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has just published its list of shortlisted (“nominated”) watches in the runup to the eagerly anticipated red-carpet event in Geneva on November 4, 2021. Ian Skellern shares all of the finalist watches in each category here. Let us know your favorites!

Oscillon l’Instant de Vérité: The Most − If Not The Only − Fully Handmade Watch Available Today

Greubel Forsey Sep 4, 2021

Oscillon l’Instant de Vérité: The Most − If Not The Only − Fully Handmade Watch Available Today

I know of only three watchmakers making watches completely (no CNC machines) by hand today: Greubel Forsey with its Hand Made 1 and Dominique Buser and Cyrano Devanthey, who are hand-making watches they call l’Instant de Vérité under the umbrella of their own micro brand Oscillon. And what a watch this is!

Business News: Watchbox Takes Majority Stake in De Bethune [Updated]

Ulysse Nardin who’s now Aug 31, 2021

Business News: Watchbox Takes Majority Stake in De Bethune [Updated]

Watchbox, one of the world’s largest retailers of pre-owned watches, has just announced that it’s taken a majority stake in De Bethune, an independent watchmaker that’s recently enjoying a revival in its fortunes. The deal closed on August 31, according to Patrik Hoffmann, the former chief executive of Ulysse Nardin who’s now the head of Watchbox Switzerland. According to Mr Hoffmann, De Bethune now has just four shareholders, down from a dozen or so previously, with Watchbox holding the largest stake. While Watchbox now has board representation, its investment is largely passive says Mr Hoffmann. Both of De Bethune’s key men will remain in their equity stakes as well as management roles: Pierre Jacques as chief executive and cofounder Denis Flageollet as its technical and watchmaking head. And Mr Hoffmann adds will be no change in terms of De Bethune’s products. “Denis sees the brand DNA so clearly,” continues Mr Hoffmann, “So it would be a big mistake to change that… [since] few brands have the same clearly-defined DNA.” The road from 2002 As the saying goes, history doesn’t repeat itself, but it rhymes. De Bethune was originally cofounded in 2002 by a vintage watch dealer active in the late 20th century, Davide Zanetta, a truly original character who was legendary in his time. Mr Zanetta sold his majority share of the brand in 2017 after many years of losses. One of the investors who bought into the brand in 2017 was Steven Rostovsky, a pre-own...

There’s a new watch magazine in town. The best part? It won’t cost you a cent…

There’s a new watch magazine in town. The best part? It won’t cost you a cent…

With the rise of social media and its symbiotic relationship with watches, much of what we consume regarding horology is found online. But just as a hardcover book will always have a greater appeal than a Kindle, there is something really special about physical watch magazines. Whether gracing the surface of a coffee table, or … ContinuedThe post There’s a new watch magazine in town. The best part? It won’t cost you a cent… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: three alternatives to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak While Aug 18, 2021

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: three alternatives to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

While this series is called “Don’t Feed the Hype”, I am not saying these watches are all hype – they definitely offer aesthetics, finishes, craftsmanship, and technology to back it up. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is such a phenomenal reference that ultimately ushered in the era of Genta domination. I love the watch and, … ContinuedThe post DON’T FEED THE HYPE: three alternatives to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Happy National Day! Maju-lah Singapura!

Happy National Day! Maju-lah Singapura!

Singapore, which is our home and host, celebrates her 56th National Day today. We interrupt regular programming today to bring Singaporeans and friends National Day greetings. Majulah Singapura! As usual, we take a break from watches and all things horological today. Singapore 56th National Day

Singapore’s National Day! Our suggestions on the best watches to celebrate

Singapore’s National Day! Our suggestions on the best watches to celebrate

This year, Singaporeand celebrate our 56th National Day tomorrow. And here are our suggestions of 6 watches to enjoy the holiday.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Why our latest content series is called ‘Don’t Feed the Hype’

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Why our latest content series is called ‘Don’t Feed the Hype’

Earlier this week I launched our “Don’t Feed the Hype” series, and so far we’ve received some great feedback about the initiative that proposes alternatives to the most unobtainable watches around. In the wake of last month’s events, we just felt it was time to put our money where our mouth is and attempt to … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Why our latest content series is called ‘Don’t Feed the Hype’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Patek Philippe Nautilus

Patek Philippe Nautilus Recently Aug 3, 2021

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Patek Philippe Nautilus

Recently on our weekly room The Breakfast Club on Clubhouse (Friday 8pm EST / Saturday 10am AEST), we spoke at length about purchasing principles. The question we explored was what do you do when a watch is not readily available at retail. Do you queue up and wait it out? Do you cough up the hefty … ContinuedThe post DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Patek Philippe Nautilus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Zelos Mako V3 Ti delivers a titanium diver for under $500

MICRO MONDAYS: The Zelos Mako V3 Ti delivers a titanium diver for under $500

At Time-Tide, we have a history of covering the new releases of Elshan Tang, the owner and designer behind Zelos Watches in Singapore, and he seldom disappoints. I wouldn’t be exaggerating by proclaiming his prolific output to be a milestone that many a budding microbrand owner aims for and it’ll take more than a mere … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Zelos Mako V3 Ti delivers a titanium diver for under $500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Piaget Reference 908 4C: Clous De Paris Guilloche At Its Finest

Piaget Reference 908 4C Clous Jul 27, 2021

Piaget Reference 908 4C: Clous De Paris Guilloche At Its Finest

The clous de Paris engravings of Piaget Reference 908 4C give it a masculine appearance, yet at the same time a generous dash of elegance. That is the true power of clous de Paris and the reason why it played an indispensable role in the Piaget collection of the early 1950s up until the 1980s. And you just might fall in love with it too.

Interview: Why Urwerk Just Can't Stop Using Tantalum

Urwerk Jul 19, 2021

Interview: Why Urwerk Just Can't Stop Using Tantalum

It's the devilish material that destroys watchmaking equipment. And it's too alluring to pass up.

Caran d’Ache + Alfredo Häberli Fixpencil: Colorful, Practical, And Environmentally Friendly

Caran d’Ache + Alfredo Häberli Fixpencil: Colorful, Practical, And Environmentally Friendly

Caran d’Ache’s acclaimed Fixpencil was conceived in 1929 by Swiss engineer Carl Schmid, who invented and patented a unique clutch-style lead holder that made it possible to accept leads of different diameters. Zurich-based designer Alfredo Häberli is a fan, which led to the creation of the colorful new limited edition Caran d’Ache + Alfredo Häberli Fixpencil.

New: Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune

Hermes Jun 28, 2021

New: Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune

The new Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune joins the Slim d’Hermès collection, with the first skeletonized movement for Hermès.

Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate?

Richard Mille thrill you or make Jun 27, 2021

Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate?

Are you on team Rolex or team Omega? Does the horological excess of Richard Mille thrill you or make you shudder? In the world of luxury brands emotions can run deep. This week I discovered an intriguing exploration into the fickle world of consumer behaviour, in the Jing Daily newsletter and a story entitled: “Why … ContinuedThe post Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Once you notice how celebrities wear their watches you can’t unsee it….

Once you notice how celebrities wear their watches you can’t unsee it….

During the week an interesting article popped up from the Independent UK in my Apple News feed. It revolved around a press conference at Euro 2020 where superstar footballer Cristiano Ronaldo shunned one of the tournament sponsors Coca-Cola by purposefully moving two bottles of the soft drink out of view from the camera while asserting … ContinuedThe post Once you notice how celebrities wear their watches you can’t unsee it…. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Mille RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth: now in new 2021 livery

Richard Mille RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Jun 25, 2021

Richard Mille RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth: now in new 2021 livery

Richard Mille presents a new 80 limited pieces edition, the RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth.

Happenings: Anthony de Haas And Robert Hoffmann To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York

Happenings: Anthony de Haas And Robert Hoffmann To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York

The duo from A. Lange & Söhne will discuss how tradition inspires today’s watchmaking, as well as their approach to horological design and engineering.

The Rolex Daytona gets a wild blue remix from Artisans de Genève

Rolex Daytona gets Jun 16, 2021

The Rolex Daytona gets a wild blue remix from Artisans de Genève

After picking my jaw off the ground, I was surprised by my wide-eyed delight with Artisans de Genève’s irreverent take on the Rolex Daytona. I was surprised because, truth be told, this is not a model I am particularly enamored with. I’ve had my fill of all the endless fawning over vintage Daytonas. In fact, … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Daytona gets a wild blue remix from Artisans de Genève appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 20th Anniversary Featuring One Mainspring, One Differential, Two Geartrains, And Two Remontoire d’Egalité Escapements

F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 20th Jun 6, 2021

F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 20th Anniversary Featuring One Mainspring, One Differential, Two Geartrains, And Two Remontoire d’Egalité Escapements

Launched in 2000, the Chronomètre à Résonance was the first wristwatch with a resonance mechanism and it catapulted F.P. Journe into the major leagues. This latest model in celebration of its 20th anniversary is an entirely new piece based on the resonance phenomenon that now incorporates a larger single mainspring (the original had two mainsprings) with a differential driving the two going trains and a pair of remontoire d’égalité escapements.

SPOTTED: The custom Ben Baller BAPE x Kid Cudi x G-Shock DW-6900

SPOTTED: The custom Ben Baller BAPE x Kid Cudi x G-Shock DW-6900

As A$AP Ferg rapped in his 2017 track Plain Jane, “Ferg is the name, Ben Baller did the chain,” solidifying the LA jeweller Ben Baller as the goldsmith of choice for hip-hop royalty. Ben has made jewellery for everyone who’s anyone, including Drake, Kanye West, Nas, The Weeknd, Snoop Dogg and Mariah Carey. He made the … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED: The custom Ben Baller BAPE x Kid Cudi x G-Shock DW-6900 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Candy comparison: How do the Oris Cotton Candy and Rolex OP dials compare?

Rolex OP dials compare? Oris Apr 28, 2021

Candy comparison: How do the Oris Cotton Candy and Rolex OP dials compare?

Oris has really dug into bronze of late with the material repeatedly featuring in the brand’s catalogue in recent years. But one thing Oris has done with bronze that you never really see in the industry is produce bronze-cased watches with matching bronze metal bracelets. We first saw this when they released the Oris Divers … ContinuedThe post Candy comparison: How do the Oris Cotton Candy and Rolex OP dials compare? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Artisans de Genève Unveils the Submariner Moon Phase

Casio nally created Apr 28, 2021

Artisans de Genève Unveils the Submariner Moon Phase

A custom shop best known for its extensively reworking of popular sports watches – occasionally created in collaboration with celebrity sportsmen – Artisans de Genève has a diverse portfolio of work that range from the intriguing to the mystifying. Certainly one of its more intriguing timepieces is the Sea Shepherd Challenge, a Submariner with a moon phase display surrounded by much aventurine glass that was commissioned by the founder of the eponymous marine conservation group. Initial thoughts Aftermarket customisation of fashionable watches is common. It can often be merely opportunistic, with customisers taking advantage of the watchmaker’s well-established brand and design. Rarely are customised watches interesting in a technical sense. The Sea Shepherd Challenge is interesting, being a mechanical customisation rather than the change of colours that’s the usual formula applied to such watches. It incorporates an oversized moon phase display (driven by a mechanically simple, but elaborately-constructed mechanism going by this animation), along with an aventurine-glass dial and bezel insert. Add to that the added decoration to the movement, and the watch does have its appeal. The customisation alone costs about US$35,000 (and the client either provides the watch or purchases one), which is probably too much for the work done, but within reason given the benchmark prices of such customised watches. A mariner’s watch This customised Submariner was a request...

Château d’Yquem: Paired Years Elevate The World’s Best White Wine, Simply Magical – Reprise

Château d’Yquem: Paired Years Elevate The World’s Best White Wine, Simply Magical – Reprise

Ken Gargett thinks that the 2001 Château d’Yquem is the finest young wine he has ever experienced, red or white, and remains convinced that it will go down as one of the greatest Yquems, if not the greatest of all time. But he was also able to experience something else: drinking "twin" vintages of this amazing Sauternes.

Cartier Introduces the Pasha de Cartier Chronograph

Cartier Introduces Apr 7, 2021

Cartier Introduces the Pasha de Cartier Chronograph

Inspired by the tale of a water resistant sports watch commissioned in 1934 by Thami El Glaoui, the Pasha of Marrakesh – which was actually a rectangular watch – the modern Pasha was penned by Gerald Genta, the man behind many of the most iconic watches of the 1970s and 1980s, which were often considered avant-garde for their time. One year after the relaunch of the time-only model, the jeweller is debuting the Pasha de Cartier Chronograph at Watches & Wonders 2021. The new chronograph on the wrist Initial Thoughts The Pasha Chronograph is an appealing watch. It does wear slightly large at 41 mm and but is surprisingly svelte at just under 12 mm in thickness. Add to that 100 m of water resistance and a moderate price premium of US$3,500 or so over the time-only model and you realise that the Pasha Chronograph is a compelling package. Granted, the “Vendome” lugs are not to everyone’s tastes, but the Pasha remains as classically Cartier as the jeweller’s form watches. The “Vendome” lugs and chain-secured crown cap are Pasha design hallmarks The movement is finished modestly and industrially, a sharp contrast to the dial finishing, which punches above its price point in terms of its detail. Nonetheless, its price of a bit under US$10,000 in steel makes the Pasha chronograph competitive, and also good value. Fine details The Pasha Chronograph measures 41 mm in diameter and 11.97 mm in thickness – it retains the same diameter as the time-only model and gains a...

Cartier Introduces the Tank Must de Cartier Monochrome Colours

Cartier Introduces Apr 7, 2021

Cartier Introduces the Tank Must de Cartier Monochrome Colours

Capitalising on the enduring popularity of the Tank, Cartier has (re)launched the Tank Must de Cartier at Watches & Wonders 2021. The new Tank Must line includes several entry-level watches in steel, including an unusual solar-powered model, and also a trio of watches with monochrome, solid colour dials in red, green and blue that are inspired by originals of the 1970s. Initial thoughts Appealing for its simple, 1970s style, the new Tank Must is especially striking in red, which is Cartier’s house colour. The cases are all “large model” size, which makes it suited to both genders, though more of a formal-dress watch for men. But they are all unfortunately powered by quartz movements, which are entirely acceptable given the affordable price. Given the style and movement, the new Tank Must is best suited to someone who wants a fuss-free watch that is quintessentially Cartier but not too expensive. Watch enthusiasts will probably have to wait for new versions with mechanical movements in the coming years. Vintage Technicolor The Must de Cartier Tank was born in 1977 as a mass-market product at a low price – and it was a massive hit. Prior to the Must – “I must have a Cartier” – the Tank had only been manufactured in precious metals and never been on an industrial scale. The Must de Cartier watches, which also included the Santos and other case shapes, transformed Cartier into the watch and jewellery giant it is today. While the new Tank Must line encompasses...