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Results for Lug-to-Lug

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Models With Exotic Dials Fratello
Rolex Day-Date Models May 9, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Models With Exotic Dials

The Rolex Day-Date has long been the brand’s flagship model. We sometimes forget that fact due to all the new Rolex releases every year. We usually only see new dial variations for the Day-Date. But that makes sense; after all, why drastically change something if it’s already so good? This is why we decided to […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Models With Exotic Dials to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref 5328G May 8, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G

One of several strong new releases from Patek Philippe this year, the Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G is a simple day-date watch distinguished by an all-new manually wound, eight-day movement. Carrying on the contemporary aesthetic of the Calatrava ref. 5226G and Annual Calendar ref. 5326G, the new watch features a grained fumé dial and an 18k white gold case with a middle fully encircled with clous de Paris guilloche. The ref. 5238G is purposeful in its design, which gives it a casual, almost tool watch-like appearance that offers a pleasing contrast to its overtly luxurious case and movement. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe put on a good show at Watches & Wonders this year, and the ref. 5328G might be my favourite of the bunch. The watch has a strong presence thanks to its hobnail case band and instrument-like dial, but it really stands out when you turn the watch over and see the vintage-inspired bridge architecture. Patek Philippe is usually pretty utilitarian when it comes to movement design, so it’s nice to see them let their hair down and have some fun with this one. The fumé navy blue dial features an asphalt-like texture first seen on the ref. 5226G introduced in 2022. The ref. 5328G also benefits from this predecessor’s lumed syringe hands and clean Arabic numerals, which give it the earnest, purposeful feel of a deck watch. Patek Philippe is not known for its typographical expertise, but here even the numerals on the date ring strike the right tone. The watch f...

Hands-On With The Sublime Doxa Sub 250T GMT Fratello
Doxa Sub 250T GMT When May 1, 2025

Hands-On With The Sublime Doxa Sub 250T GMT

When Doxa dropped the new Sub 250T GMT a month ago, it was met with near-universal praise. Nine different dial options debuted, including the most famous Doxa colorways. We saw all of them in Geneva and had the opportunity to spend time with them at Fratello HQ. Today, I’ll review these pieces and address the […] Visit Hands-On With The Sublime Doxa Sub 250T GMT to read the full article.

De Bethune Turns to Swizz Beatz for Kind of Two GMT SJX Watches
De Bethune Turns Apr 10, 2025

De Bethune Turns to Swizz Beatz for Kind of Two GMT

The third iteration of De Bethune’s swivelling, double-faced watch is the Kind of Two GMT “Season 3” conceived in collaboration with American rapper and watch enthusiast Swizz Beatz. Powered by the hand-wound DB2517 movement, the watch indicates one time zone on the front and another on the reverse, with both sides able to be worn face up thanks to patented, pivoting “floating” lugs. Initial thoughts The Kind of Two series employs a useful reversible case, cleverly using the “floating” lug construction of the DB28 to create a double-faced watch. Here one dial is traditional with blued steel hands, and the other an open-worked face revealing the movement that also has a regulator-style display for the second time zone. The clever approach with a unique movement is typical De Bethune, although this loses some novelty as the third double-faced watch in the De Bethune line-up. The Kind of Two GMT is definitely one of the most elaborate two time zone watches on the market, but at over US$200,000, it is pricey for a GMT, even by the standards of independent watchmaking (Voutilainen’s GMT, for instance, costs less). Two-faced The “Season 3” edition adopts a restrained palette of black and gold with blue accents. The 43.3 mm by 11.4 mm case is titanium and zirconium, with blued steel hands and a blue-and-black guilloche dial centre on the front showing local time. Notably, this dial includes a jumping seconds that is driven by a secondary escapement visible on ...

First Look – TAG Heuer Refreshes its Carrera Day-Date and Carrera Twin-Time Models Monochrome
TAG Heuer Refreshes Apr 1, 2025

First Look – TAG Heuer Refreshes its Carrera Day-Date and Carrera Twin-Time Models

Jack Heuer’s Carrera chronograph is the stuff of legends. Released in 1963 and named after the dangerous Carrera Panamericana, the Carrera is still TAG Heuer’s flagship model. The current Carrera collection has eight sub-families, including the recently introduced Date family, home to the Day-Date and Twin-Time models. Released just four years ago, the Day-Date and […]

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date And A New Beads-Of-Rice Bracelet Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date Apr 1, 2025

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date And A New Beads-Of-Rice Bracelet

For Watches and Wonders 2025, TAG Heuer announces a new lineup of Carrera Day-Date watches. Six references complete the collection with a variety of dials, case materials, and functions. Also, a new beads-of-rice bracelet is now an option for all Carrera Chronograph Glassbox models. For enthusiasts, the Carrera Day-Date may not be as exciting as […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date And A New Beads-Of-Rice Bracelet to read the full article.

Introducing – The New De Bethune DB25NC Monopusher Chronograph Monochrome
De Bethune DB25NC Monopusher Chronograph Mar 31, 2025

Introducing – The New De Bethune DB25NC Monopusher Chronograph

The mono-pusher chronograph has become a signature complication for De Bethune and Denis Flageollet. The DB1, the brand’s first watch in 2002, was a monopusher chrono using the movement developed by THA. It was followed by several other mono-pusher chronographs among which the DB8 in 2003, the DB28 Maxichrono in 2014 and the DB Eight […]

Hands On Review Of The Cartier Panthère de Cartier WatchAdvice
Cartier Panthère de Cartier I Mar 19, 2025

Hands On Review Of The Cartier Panthère de Cartier

I took the Panthère de Cartier in 18K yellow gold for review, and from the moment I held it, the watch’s elegance and refinement were undeniable. Cartier has once again proven that true luxury isn’t about complexity—it’s about timeless design, effortless wearability, and an unmistakable presence on the wrist. What We Love: The timepiece has a well-balanced design that sits elegantly on the wrist. The white dial perfectly complements the gold case, bezel and bracelet. The gold model, as expected, gives a more luxury appeal compared to the other variants of the timepiece and has a shine that is hard to take your eyes away from! What We Don’t: Lack of micro-adjustment on the bracelet for a better snug fit. Due to the highly polished finish of the gold, the timepiece is prone to scratching While the gold is stunning on the wrist, it doesn’t offer the same versatility as the steel for everyday wear. Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Cartier is renowned for crafting timepieces that strike the perfect balance between subtle elegance and distinctive flair, allowing them to stand out without being overtly flashy. The brand’s mastery lies in its use of unconventional shapes and design elements that enhance a watch’s character without overpowering its essence. The Panthère de Cartier is a perfect example of this philosophy—its design is simple and refined, yet beneath its understated appearance...

Spending Time With The President - The Rolex Day-Date 40 Refs. 228239 And 228235 Fratello
Rolex Day-Date 40 Refs 228239 Mar 14, 2025

Spending Time With The President - The Rolex Day-Date 40 Refs. 228239 And 228235

I have spent plenty of time around the iconic Rolex Day-Date. Those watches, however, were all vintage or, at best, neo-vintage. My time spent with the current generation is limited, to put it mildly, so I felt it was about time I tried on a pair of thoroughly modern DDs in the contemporary 40mm size. […] Visit Spending Time With The President - The Rolex Day-Date 40 Refs. 228239 And 228235 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar - Could This Yellow-Dial Diver Have A Place In My Collection? Fratello
Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar - Mar 2, 2025

Hands-On With The Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar - Could This Yellow-Dial Diver Have A Place In My Collection?

Ever since Hodinkee Editor-in-Chief James Stacey posted an image on social media of a Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar, I knew I had to do a hands-on with one. Yellow is a color that keeps drawing me back. The Divingstar had already been on my radar, but seeing it time and time again wore down my […] Visit Hands-On With The Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar - Could This Yellow-Dial Diver Have A Place In My Collection? to read the full article.

Introducing – The new Breguet Reine de Naples 9915 For Valentine’s Day 2025 Monochrome
Breguet Reine de Naples 9915 Feb 12, 2025

Introducing – The new Breguet Reine de Naples 9915 For Valentine’s Day 2025

Abraham-Louis Breguet was the leading watchmaker of his day and enjoyed the patronage of France’s royalty and aristocracy. Among the names on his VIP list was Caroline Murat, aka the Reine de Naples, Napoleon Bonaparte’s youngest sister, who was a keen collector of Breguet’s horological marvels. The Reine de Naples collection is a free interpretation […]

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 With A Bold Burgundy Dial - Just In Time For Valentine’s Day Fratello
Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 Feb 9, 2025

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 With A Bold Burgundy Dial - Just In Time For Valentine’s Day

It has been a while since we covered Panerai’s Luminor Due collection. Mike wrote an article in 2019 when the brand went from the OPXXXIV to the new P.900 movement. He was a fan of the simpler Luminor Due models, mainly because of their dial design, the crown system, and the case shape. We thought […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 With A Bold Burgundy Dial - Just In Time For Valentine’s Day to read the full article.

Studio Underd0g and Fears Team Up on a New LE for British Watchmakers’ Day Worn & Wound
Casio n when they do Jan 30, 2025

Studio Underd0g and Fears Team Up on a New LE for British Watchmakers’ Day

It’s not often that whimsy and tradition become bedfellows, even in the wild world of watches. Time-honored brands with industry gravitas rarely join forces with quirky start-ups, and on the odd occasion when they do, the results can be divisive for traditionalists and experimentalists alike, who squabble over value, style, and reputation without stopping to admire the unique product that results from such collaborations. This is why the announcement of Fears and Studio Underd0g’s limited edition collaboration for British Watchmakers’ Day packed such an immediate punch for me, and likely will for anyone else familiar with the two brands. The unique 178-year history of Fears, resurrected in 2016 by managing director Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, combined with the brash innovation of Studio Underd0g, launched by founder Richard Benc in 2021, has resulted in a limited edition watch that flaunts the design ethos of both brands in such force that it’s unmistakably a shared effort at first glance.  The Fears x Studio Underd0g Gimlet draws attention immediately with a snappy lime dial (a nod to the watch’s tasty namesake beverage) and a cushion-shaped 38mm case inspired by the Fears Brunswick. Round edges and curves give the case a vintage feel, as does the beautiful typography-another signature Fears touch. But don’t be fooled into thinking that this is just another variant of the Brunswick; in addition to the lime dial, Studio Underd0g’s penchant for elegant dazzle...

The Salmon-Dial Omega Speedmaster 3511.60 I Didn’t Know Existed Fratello
Omega Speedmaster 3511.60 I Didn’t Jan 28, 2025

The Salmon-Dial Omega Speedmaster 3511.60 I Didn’t Know Existed

Here’s proof that you can learn something every day! I was under the (false) assumption that I was aware of basically every modern Speedmaster ever made. I have seen so many of them in my 25 years of collecting, including the ones some of you brought to the Speedy Tuesday events in the past decade. […] Visit The Salmon-Dial Omega Speedmaster 3511.60 I Didn’t Know Existed to read the full article.

Hands-on – The Captivating Beauty of the De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Monochrome
De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Jan 3, 2025

Hands-on – The Captivating Beauty of the De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon

Denis Flageollet, master watchmaker and the “mad genius” behind De Bethune’s creations, is passionate about the “great patrimony of classical watchmaking” and resolved to contribute calibres “worthy of the 21st century” (32 calibres to date). While many associate De Bethune with sleek futuristic vessels, Flageollet’s attention to classical finishings and pursuit of chronometric excellence reflect […]

De Rijke & Co.’s Miffy Moonphase Returns for the Final Time in Steel Worn & Wound
De Rijke & Co.’s Miffy Moonphase Dec 16, 2024

De Rijke & Co.’s Miffy Moonphase Returns for the Final Time in Steel

I’ve become a pretty big fan of De Rijke & Co. over the past few years, and am glad to see them experiencing so much success recently (I’m basing this on their booth at the New York City Windup Watch Fair being mobbed to the point that I couldn’t find room to introduce myself to brand founder Laurens de Rijke until the last day of the show). If I’m being honest, though, I’ve been a bit mystified by the whole Miffy thing. The Miffy Moonphase watches have become something of a viral sensation for De Rijke, but I’ve always assumed the limited editions were snatched up by an international audience with more Miffy familiarity than the typical American watch consumer. But earlier this year, traveling back from Geneva Watch Days, I had a connection in Amsterdam, and waiting at the gate I noticed an American family (the Boston accents gave it away) with two young children and several shopping bags full of Miffy memorabilia purchased, I assume, somewhere in Schiphol Airport. It dawned on me then that the Dutch cartoon was not some closely held regional secret – it was just I’m, as usual, painfully out of touch.  Today, De Rijke launches a pair of new Miffy Moonphases with green dials that follow the format of their previous releases closely. This, according to De Rijke, is the final Miffy Moonphase release in a steel case, and it consists of both a single and double moonphase, each in an edition of 50. The double moonphase watches have been particular favorites sin...