Time+Tide
Lights Out: Introducing the 36mm Timex Intrepid x Dimepiece ‘Blackout’ Edition
The Timex Intrepid x Dimepiece Blackout Edition brings a stealthy new look to the 36mm sports watch, with a PVD case and purple accents.
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Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.
The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
Time+Tide
The Timex Intrepid x Dimepiece Blackout Edition brings a stealthy new look to the 36mm sports watch, with a PVD case and purple accents.
Hodinkee
What We Know More often than not, modern revivals of older watch designs usually come in larger cases than the original. Sometimes, it's because of limitations on which calibers are available today. Other times, it's because of a broader market affinity for larger cases (even if we watch enthusiasts like to imagine otherwise). But with Dimepiece's take on the 1995 Timex Intrepid, that was never going to be the case. Today, Timex introduces the Intrepid x Dimepiece 'Blackout' Edition. It follows last year's successful release between the collaborators—Timex, Brynn Wallner of Dimepiece, and Alan Bedwell of Foundwell—that took the original 46mm case, shrunk it down to 36mm, and simplified the bezel and dial. In a move that largely centers around the idea of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it," this year's version keeps almost everything the same, but with the twist of a black PVD-coated stainless steel case as well as a blacked-out version of the Timex Indiglo branding on the rubber strap. Other specs are identical, including the Indiglo-illuminated cream dial and a slide rule swapped for dive markings on the bezel insert. Purple, in the same hue as the Dimepiece logo, appears on the twelve o'clock marker, the seconds hand, and the nine o'clock Indiglo pusher. The new Timex Intrepid x Dimepiece 'Blackout' Edition is available through Timex, Dimepiece, and select retailers, and priced at $269. What We Think You know those watches that keep popping into your head, despite the...
WatchAdvice
Zenith’s latest addition to the Chronomaster Revival line directly references its heritage models, but can the beauty of age be replicated? Let’s find out! What We Love: Old-world cues in a sepia tone Retro yet wearable case profile Ladder bracelet perfect for hotter temperatures What We Don’t: Sharp clasp still needs improving No hacking seconds Be old or look old? Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 7.5/10 Just like us, watches get old. But vintage watches occupy the same space as old cars, Renaissance art, George Clooney and Anne Hathaway, in so far as they’ve aged gracefully. And while everyone wants a piece of that prime beauty, not everyone can get their hands on it. So too is the case for the original Zenith Ref. A384, first introduced in 1969 as the brand’s first-ever high-beat chronograph. Establishing the foundations for generations of Zenith watches to come, the A384 has since become a legend, rarely seen outside the upper echelons of vintage watch collecting. Getting your hands on one is near-impossible these days, as unfortunately we can’t rewind time to when their price tags was equivalent to peanuts. But what if we could fast-forward? That’s what Zenith asked itself when it introduced the Chronomaster Revival A384 in 2019. The first reference faithfully recreated the original A384 as if it had just rolled off the factory floor, with the iconic ladder bracelet following in 2020. This l...
Fratello
I was halfway through packing for a few weeks in Europe when the question stopped me: how many watches does a trip like this actually require? Not how many I own or how many I could justify bringing. How many would I honestly reach for after packing them and finding myself standing in an airport […] Visit Should You Take One Watch Or Several When You Travel? to read the full article.
Hodinkee
What We Know Oris is going through its catalog and doing some subtle and meaningful updates to the ProPilot lineup. On the heels of a ProPilot Date update last year, the higher-tier ProPilot Calibre 111 is getting similar tweaks that take a very solid watch and make it a bit more refined. In fact, if you compare it to the old, outgoing 44mm version, the refreshed look really does stand out despite the relative subtlety. The new stainless steel case is slimmed down and sharpened up, down from 44mm to 43mm and down from around 14mm (actually 13.85mm) to 13.2mm; there are improvements in sizing, which is impressive for a watch with a 10-day power reserve. The date window has been moved to the 6 o'clock position for better balance, and the new finishing for the black or pine green dial combines a main vertically brushed surface with a textured, pebbled graining in the subdials and minute track. The Calibre 111 movement is visible through the display caseback, while the watch maintains a 100m water resistance all the same. You can see that massive barrel required for the 240-hour power reserve and what looks to be a nice level of finishing for the price point. The angled fluting on the bezel carries over to the caseback ring as well, which adds a balanced touch. And while you can still get the watch on a choice of leather strap or stainless steel bracelet, the 'LIFT' clasp and seamless fit strap adjustment system make either choice a solid one. Since this is more of a powerhous...
Hodinkee
What We Know Timex and Noah have announced the latest in their ongoing series of collaborations, the Noah x Timex Boatswain. Here, the two have taken their Ellipse-style case and swapped out the dial. This makes for the third release from the two brands to make use of this case style, after the Oval Moon — with an oversized moonphase — and the Lighthouse watch — whose standout design detail was a sketch-like image of a lighthouse across the dial. In this case, both those details have been dropped in favor of a reined in nautical theme, which is most evident when looking at the inner track ring on the dial, which is patterned on a ship's rope. Beyond that detail, the Boatswain is, as a watch (dare I say it), rather conventional, with painted Roman Numeral indices, a slightly creamy ivory dial, and your choice of a gold tone or stainless steel case. The watches are double signed, with the Timex logo at twelve, and the Noah script wordmark at six. Hands and dial printing are, in all cases here, black. The case itself retains the same dimensions as previous releases, measuring 31mm x 35mm. The watches are water resistant to 30 meters, and come fitted on textured leather straps; brown with a stainless steel pin buckle on the stainless steel case, and black with a gold tone pin buckle. The straps are fixed to the case by a centrally mounted pin and collar bar, so strap changes are possible, if a little fiddly. As one would expect these watches are quartz. The Noah x Timex ...
Worn & Wound
Introducing the Fossil Signature Collection. We visited Fossil’s Dallas headquarters to sit down with Senior Creative Director Ryan White for a behind-the-scenes look at the inspiration and creative process behind a collection designed with enthusiasts in mind. Join us at Windup Watch Fair NYC for an exclusive screening of the short documentary chronicling the collection’s […]
SJX Watches
The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo returns to Carlo Crocco’s original 1980 design, when Hublot was the name of a watch made by MDM Genève. The Tributo’s 38 mm gold case restores the original 12-screw bezel, while a Zenith-derived automatic replaces quartz beneath an austere black dial. The yellow gold variant sticks close to the original design, while its white gold sibling pairs a black onyx dial with blackened bezel screws for a high-contrast monochromatic look. Initial thoughts While today Hublot is almost synonymous with the Big Bang and other large, sometimes extravagant watches, the brand’s origin as a single model made by MDM Genève is rooted in Italian elegance. The original quartz-powered model from 1980 was the first watch to pair a precious metal case with a rubber strap, a then-unheard-of configuration that was nonetheless perfectly suited to la dolce vita in the Italian sun. The Classic Fusion Tributo honours founder Carlo Crocco’s original design, complete with 12 bezel screws and a low-profile feel on the wrist, while being sized up to contemporary standards and equipped with a competent automatic movement courtesy of sister brand Zenith. The white gold version’s onyx dial, an upgrade relative to both the original and the black lacquer of the 2023 remake, is another difference that taps into the ongoing stone dial trend. But it does so in a low-key way that makes sense for the design and doesn’t feel faddish. Curiously, the yellow gold version s...
SJX Watches
Urwerk’s latest interpretation of the wandering hours complication ventures beyond classical physics with the UR-300 Time Quantum, which debuts a cleverly constructed jumping display inspired by quantum mechanics. Housed in a sleek new titanium case with a choice of finishes, the UR-300 is almost as cutting-edge on the inside as its futuristic design makes it out to be, with LIGA-formed levers and wheels that catapult the display forwards in the blink of an eye. Initial thoughts According to Urwerk, the design of the UR-300 was inspired by the property of quantum entanglement, which informed the functional design of the new jumping wandering hours module. This explains why when one of the two “atoms” responsible for the hours flips, so does the other. I got a preview of the prototype movement earlier this year and was immediately taken by the new display and the elegance of its mechanism, which takes a familiar look and adds a surprising, jumping twist. The final design of the space ship-like case suits the concept, making it immediately recognisable as an Urwerk. Ultimately, the unique selling proposition of this watch is aesthetic, but it’s an aesthetic that only works thanks to clever engineering. That said, the roughly US$200,000 asking price is steep by the standards of high-end wandering hours complications, whether from Urwerk or larger brands like Audemars Piguet that, admittedly, have vastly different economies of scale. But no brand does futurism quite li...
Fratello
Put the spec sheets for the Tudor Pelagos 39 and the Rolex Submariner side by side, and the two watches look almost suspiciously similar. Both are roughly 40mm steel or titanium dive watches with in-house automatic movements, ceramic or aluminum bezels, and depth ratings most owners will never come close to testing. On paper, this […] Visit Is The Tudor Pelagos 39 Better Than A Rolex Submariner? to read the full article.
Fratello
These days, “finishing” is a buzzword. Talk to fans of high horology, and you will most likely hear terms like “anglage,” “black polish,” and “perlage.” It seems like everything is about finishing nowadays, which made a master watchmaker tell me that decorating every last piece of a movement is not the essence of watchmaking. He […] Visit Does Finishing Make A Watch Movement Work Well, Or Is It Just A Beautifying Trick? to read the full article.
Fratello
Today, Depancel opens up and shares its mechanical heart. The new Série-R Chronograph Skeleton takes that approach to a fresh extreme. Fully skeletonized, the dial looks entirely different from the rest of the brand’s lineup. It’s a racy design that takes its cues from ’70s automotive prototypes like the Maserati Boomerang. Unlike that one-off, though, […] Visit The Depancel Série-R Chronograph Skeleton Is A Mechanical Open Book to read the full article.
Hodinkee
With the massive rise in interest in independent brands over the past few years, it seems like it's basically impossible to even begin to meet with watchmakers these days, let alone have a meaningful conversation with them or see their watches. I have to field the question "How do I meet ___" at least once a week. No matter the answer, it requires some effort. But what if I told you that you could walk into a room and see Rexhep Rexhepi chatting with Max Büsser, right next to Kari Voutilainen, who is looking at Jean-Claude Biver's watch while Jean Arnault looks at Trilobe. All while Rémy Cools, Theo Auffret, Gaël Petermann, and Florian Bédat are chatting at a table nearby, their watches in hand. That's IAMWATCH in Singapore, and it's happening again from November 12 to 15 at the Singapore Edition. Kari Voutilainen and Jean-Claude Biver. I was there two years ago at the first iteration of what I will say is one of the most "me" watch fairs ever made; you can see my 2024 Photo Report here for a sense of the event. I love the people of the watchmaking as much as I love the watches—maybe even more because I can't afford most of the big-name independents, but I can enjoy talking to them and learning from them all the same. The Hour Glass, one of the world's largest retailers, is also putting it on, and it's run by long-time avowed independent watchmaking acolyte and Managing Director Michael Tay. Proof of how stacked this event is comes from the list of names I'm going to...
Hodinkee
What We Know Angelus has dropped the curtain on three new limited-edition watches built on the same platform as the fan-favorite (and GPHG-winning) Chronographe Télémètre, only not quite. With this trio of novelties — appropriately dubbed the Chronographe Tachymètre — Angelus has dropped the telemeter scale, replacing it with a tachymeter, and bringing with it a slightly sportier look than we've come to expect from Angelus's most compact modern offering. The new model follows up a limited-edition take on the idea of a Chronographe Télémètre released in collaboration with Monochrome Watches earlier this year. But where that watch featured a double-tracked tachymeter and a decidedly vintage aesthetic, these new watches offer a decidedly different take on the concept, leaning into the look of midcentury racing watches. Here, that means you have the same bi-register chronograph layout, but with a single-track tachymeter and subdials finished in contrasting colors. Like the Chronographe Télémètre that preceded it, the new Chronographe Tachymètre is offered in three configurations, with two of those in steel cases and the other in yellow gold. The yellow gold offering — which is limited to 15 pieces — is fitted with a yellow-gold-tone dial with green (really, a very dark grey with a greenish hue) accents. The stainless steel watches are offered with either a salmon dial with grey accents or a grey dial with blue accents. These watches come in editions of 30 an...
Fratello
There were already Jungle Green, Tactical Black, and Polar White versions of this watch, and now there’s a fourth variation. The Royal Marine-approved Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue is an aquatic-colored extension of Bremont’s dive-watch collection. This limited edition of 250 pieces has a colder, darker look inspired by the point where ocean and ice […] Visit The Royal Marine-Approved Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue Makes Its Debut to read the full article.
Monochrome
Retrograde complications, in which a hand sweeps across an arc or sector and snaps back to zero, are prized for their theatrical jumping display. While retrograde displays have been around for centuries and were popularised by watchmakers like Lépine and Breguet, a surprisingly wide range of brands still feature them today. H. Moser & Cie.’s Pioneer […]
Fratello
Last week, Omega teased that something Bond-related was coming. If you visited the page for the Seamaster Diver 300M collection on Omega’s website, the brand’s logo would switch to the Spectre logo every few seconds. Today, on Global James Bond Day, we can reveal that the question of whether you pivot to the dark side […] Visit Choosing Between Good And Evil: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond And Spectre Collection to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Cartier’s Y2K darling has returned to the fold, but has it done enough to pick up from where it left off? Let’s find out! What We Love: Unique, shapely case Seamless wearability Fun, quirky aesthetic What We Don’t: Lack of lume for a sports watch Slippery, hard-to-operate crown Did the Roadster deserve a comeback? Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Of all the watch brands that have broken through into popular culture, Cartier stands as one of the most significant. Ever the champions and pioneers of quiet luxury, the French jeweller-watchmakers have built up a remarkable reputation over the course of 179 years. As part of that esteemed legacy are some of the most iconic silhouettes in watchmaking. Truly, models like the Tank, Santos, and Panthère are easily recognisable from their shadows alone! But while these collections possess obvious cultural cachet, perhaps equally as interesting are the designs that are no longer with us. The archival graveyard of Cartier is surprisingly rich, decorated with references as beautiful as they are unconventional. Model lines like the Pasha, the Calibre, and the criminally underrated Drive still maintain cult followings, with dedicated fans praying for their beloved collections’ return even years after their discontinuation. This year did see one such design finally escape the Shadow Realm. Of course, I am talking about the remastered Cartier Roadster, which held a ...
Fratello
The first Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE I ever saw indeed had a panda dial. The white dial with black sub-registers created the famous look so many desire. The latest Pandial is like a panda suffering from melanism; it’s fully black. It does give this latest Brellum chronograph, a limited edition of just 33 […] Visit There Are Only 33 Of These: Introducing The Black-Dial Brellum Pandial 43 Power Reserve LE Chronometer to read the full article.
Time+Tide
For a brand only recently brought back to life, Monceau seems to have found its feet pretty quickly. The recently revived Monceau only returned in 2025 with the Model 01, and its second release already feels like a meaningful evolution rather than a simple colour update. The Model 01 GTS keeps the same underlying case … Continued
SJX Watches
Manufacture La Joux-Perret (MLJP) has become an increasingly important supplier to the growing ranks of micro-brands and independent watchmakers, offering capable Swiss movements at accessible prices. Though a fraction of the size of its neighbour Sellita, the manufacture has expanded through a pragmatic combination of selective automation, a more focused movement catalogue, and careful investments in production. Its approach offers an instructive look at how Swiss watchmaking can remain competitive while retaining the skills needed to produce everything from solar quartz movements to hand-finished tourbillons under one roof. To find out more about MLJP, we visited the manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, one of the historical centres of watchmaking in the Swiss Jura. A primer on MLJP The history of MLJP can be traced to the revival of complicated watchmaking in the early 1990s. Established by Jean-Pierre Jaquet in 1990 under his own name, the firm supplied specialised movements, including shaped calibres and complications, to the growing fine watchmaking segment. Among its best-known offerings of that era was a monopusher chronograph designed by François-Paul Journe and produced for clients like Franck Muller and Girard-Perregaux. Loosely related to the cal. 045MC that Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) developed previously for Cartier, the platform remains in production today as the cal. A5000, one of the manufacture’s more upmarket movements. The cal. A5000 in an ...
Hodinkee
What We Know Today, Ianos, the Greek microbrand best known for its Greek history and culture-inspired dive watches like the Avyssos and the Dytis, is back with a new dive watch that was never meant to be. When Ianos introduced the Dytis last year, it was noted as the last in a trilogy of dive watches from Ianos, after which they would move on to the next thing. Well, Ianos is still mostly sticking to that story, but in the meantime, we have the Ianos Amfivios, a civilian edition of a special-edition watch Ianos produced last summer for Greece's Underwater Demolition Command. The new watch, built on the same dive-watch platform as last summer's Dytis (which TanTan went hands-on with here), is a solid next step for a brand that has iterated gently, even as it's taken big aesthetic swings in developing its collection. And truly, few, if any, other watches on the market scratch the same itch as Ianos's watches do. That said, the Amfivios is about as mass-appeal a watch as Ianos has produced, thanks to the military-demanded touches that set it apart from the Dytis. The Amfivios is, for example, the first dive watch since the original Avyssos to include any kind of scale on the rotating bezel. And where previous Ianos watches have used the small seconds subdial as a visual gag, here it is a functional subdial, with hands, markers, and everything. That's not to say Ianos has purged all that makes these watches, frankly, a little funky, though. The unique date at 12 remains, with ...
Monochrome
If you go through the history books of Formula 1, there are a million incredible stories to be discovered. On the driver’s side, icons like Schumacher, Senna, Prost, Moss and Fangio, as well as modern legends such as Hamilton and Verstappen, all left an indelible mark on the sport. When it comes to cars, I […]
Hodinkee
We're on the eve of one of Patek Philippe's biggest events every few years: the October 2nd to the 18th presentation of the brand's Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. On Monday, I'll be flying there for a preview of the exhibition, so stay tuned for stories from that trip coming in the near future. Another story, which has been waiting in the wings and in progress for some time now, was a hands-on look at two of the most surprising (and potentially divisive) releases from Patek this year: the Cubitus perpetual calendar and the Celestial ref. 6105G. While all eyes were on the Nautilus's 50th anniversary, I thought Patek Philippe had a very interesting Watches & Wonders, at least from the perspective of bold releases and brand strategy. Truthfully, they could have done just about anything with the Nautilus, and those lucky enough to get a watch would have been happy. The Celestial alone was a wristwatch with a complication only four other brands have created. But just take a look at the two watches above and the two below. While I didn't get to see the ref. 7047G in person, it raised eyebrows for the very unusual blue tire tread-style dial (à la ref. 6007G) and remarkably strong orange accents and luminous hands and dial placed on a minute repeater that retails north of $570,000. It was perhaps so aesthetically surprising that it distracted people from the fact that Patek was honoring its past with a Calatrava-cased minute repeater reminiscent of the unique ref. 3652 and ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Longines brings blue dials to the Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback, giving two of its cleanest aviation-inspired watches a fresh look.
Worn & Wound
Last week, Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America headed west to Billings, Montana, for an evening of watches, conversation, and a little bit of Windup Watch Fair previewing at Riddle’s Jewelry’s Shiloh location. Following our enthusiast night in Salt Lake, the Billings event was another chance to bring the Windup experience to a community that doesn’t always get the opportunity to see this kind of collection of watches in person. But more than anything, the evening was about establishing Riddle’s Jewelers as a welcoming home for watch enthusiasts in Eastern Montana—and kicking off what we hope becomes a new tradition of getting together, talking watches, and, naturally, buying a few new timepieces along the way. The evening welcomed local enthusiasts, longtime collectors, curious newcomers, and Riddle’s clientele, all with one thing in common: an appreciation for a good watch and an excuse to talk about them. With food and drinks on hand, the evening had the easygoing feel we love about enthusiast gatherings. Watches came off wrists, new ones went on, and conversations bounced from movements and materials to personal favorites and the watches everyone had been quietly keeping an eye on. Of course, there was plenty to get excited about on the watch front. The collection included standout pieces from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Frédérique Constant, and Alpina, including several watches that aren’t exactly easy to find sitting in a display case. And our new ...
Fratello
Immediately after I saw the images of the new Glashütte Original 70s series, I was intrigued. With the square case shape and textured dials, these new watches instantly reminded me of a classic Citizen watch my father wore in the 1980s, which I still have at home. As you’ll understand, a connection like that is […] Visit A Personal Trip Down Memory Lane With The New Glashütte Original 70s Series to read the full article.
Fratello
Although Nivada Grenchen re-entered the market in 2020 after decades of absence, its roots date back to its original establishment in 1926. To celebrate the 100th anniversary, Nivada is releasing seven new dial variations for one of its most popular models, which also underwent a facelift. I was lucky enough to put my hands on […] Visit A Sumptuous Centenary: Hands-On With The New Nivada F77 MKII Stone Dials Collection to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Following last year’s Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition made for the Alpine F1 team, H. Moser & Cie has just released its second smartwatch, this time with a unique take on the genre. The Off-Grid offers a streamlined set of programmed complications designed to occupy in the space between a mechanical watch and a smartwatch. In doing so, the Off-Grid eschews common functions like health tracking and notifications, allowing its full feature set to be accessed with or without a smartphone connection. The offline theme explains its most unusual complication, a built-in dictionary of 10 words in each of 21 different languages. Initial thoughts At first glance, the 1980s-style ana-digi display may feel more at home in a G-Shock or Seiko ‘Arnie’ than a Swiss luxury watch, though Moser is hardly the first Swiss brand to give the format a go. The Breitling Aerospace debuted more than 40 years ago, and Omega later introduced the ana-digi Speedmaster X-33 in 1998. But unlike the aforementioned, Moser’s choice to put the module on show beneath a semi-open-worked dial is a unique approach and reveals the brand’s mechanical watchmaking instincts. With the Off-Grid, Moser is trying to find the middle ground between mechanical and electronic watchmaking that offers the benefits of both worlds but without all the downsides — like constant notifications and fast-draining batteries. The “Off-Grid” moniker sums up the effort, both in terms of its autonomy and its conceptua...
WatchAdvice
I take the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Perpetual Calendar hands-on to discover how the Maison has combined an ultra-thin complication with its first integrated bracelet design! What We Love: Impressively slim perpetual calendar architecture Beautifully executed integrated bracelet design Excellent proportions to suit a range of wrist sizes What We Don’t: Pink gold and toffee dial lack contrast Calendar adjustments still require a corrector No factory strap alternative currently offered Overall Rating: 9.5/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.7/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a bold new direction for its Master Control collection with the introduction of the Master Control Chronomètre family. This new collection brings an integrated bracelet to the Maison for the very first time, while taking the traditional elegance of the Master Control and presenting it through a more contemporary design. Did Jaeger-LeCoultre Perfect The Integrated Bracelet Watch? (Hands On) Hands On With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Date and Master Control Chronomètre Date Power Reserve Reviews! The Master Control Chronomètre family introduces three new models: the Chronomètre Date, the Chronomètre Date Power Reserve and, lastly, the most complicated of the three, the Chronomètre Perpetual Calendar. Jaeger-LeCoultre first introduced the Master ...
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