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Results for Lug-to-Lug

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Hands-On With The New Dietrich ED-1 - Featuring A Soft Hexagonal Case Fratello
Jul 23, 2024

Hands-On With The New Dietrich ED-1 - Featuring A Soft Hexagonal Case

Designing anything, including watches, is an iterative process. You move from one design to another, and every time, you get a bit closer to what you had in mind. I’m not a designer, but Emmanuel Dietrich, who founded the Dietrich brand in 2010, is. When you look at his previous designs, you can see that […] Visit Hands-On With The New Dietrich ED-1 - Featuring A Soft Hexagonal Case to read the full article.

Spending Time With The Casio F-91W - A Watch Far More Rugged Than We May Think Fratello
Casio F-91W - Jul 21, 2024

Spending Time With The Casio F-91W - A Watch Far More Rugged Than We May Think

I think it’s fair to say that the Casio F-91W is a watch with legendary status. In this feature, I look at why such status is well deserved. The Casio F-91W has served well on the wrists of people around the globe. In my travels as a journalist, I have regularly seen the F-91W on […] Visit Spending Time With The Casio F-91W - A Watch Far More Rugged Than We May Think to read the full article.

Exploring Evergreens: The Current Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN Fratello
Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN Jul 20, 2024

Exploring Evergreens: The Current Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN

The current generation of Rolex Submariner Date has been out for four years. That might seem like a short time, but a lot has changed. The watch world - heck, even the actual world - looks different than it did in 2020. The Rolex Submariner is no longer unobtainium. Much of the hype that set […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: The Current Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN to read the full article.

An Entirely New Watch Concept from Lebond Worn & Wound
Jul 18, 2024

An Entirely New Watch Concept from Lebond

If you choose to, it’s really easy to look around the watch industry and throw up your hands in frustration that there are no new ideas. Even as we move through a period of what many hardcore enthusiasts agree is a new Golden Age of inventiveness in the affordable watch space, there’s a lot of evidence that many are playing it safe. Brands both big and small, at all price points, tend to revert to proven formulas that they know will work for them. The idea, after all, is to sell watches, so you can’t really blame anyone for deciding to lean on past performance in the hopes that it will predict future success. But that makes a brand like Lebond that much more interesting. They’re not leaning on any proven formulas, and not only are they trying something genuinely different, but brand owner Asier Mateo is actually relinquishing control of the design of each piece year in and year out.  I would describe Lebond as a fairly high concept and niche brand. The style of these watches will not appeal to everyone, and collectors would seem to benefit from a long view of the brand – it will all make a lot more sense in five, ten, or twenty years, if all goes according to plan. The idea is relatively simple: each year, Lebond releases a new watch designed by a different well known architect. Mateo is an architect himself, and founded the brand as a vehicle to expose watch lovers to the work of the world’s most talented architects. Of course, he’s also aiming these watche...

Furlan Marri Introduces an Updated Take on the Disco Volante Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Introduces Jul 16, 2024

Furlan Marri Introduces an Updated Take on the Disco Volante

The latest from Furlan Marri pays tribute to a classic watch design while adding just enough of a twist to make it feel contemporary. The new Disco Volante takes a circular, flying saucer-like case that first became popular in the 1930s as its starting point, and tweaks the formula slightly. Thinking about Furlan Marri’s previous work and the design language they’ve established, the Disco Volante makes a lot of sense in their ongoing project of updating classic Art Deco ideas, and the watch really fits into the current moment as well, which has seen shaped cases and unusual designs pulled from the past and brought up to date for new audiences.  The circular cases seen here have hidden lugs on the back side, so these sit as a perfect circle on the wrist. Cases with no visible lugs, of course, tend to wear a bit smaller, so Furlan Marri has chosen to make these Disco Volantes in 38mm as opposed to the more traditional 36mm cases found on vintage watches in this style. In theory, this should open up the Disco Volante to both men and women who are used to wearing modern watches, but seek something a little unusual and heavily vintage inspired. The integrated crown that sits flush with the case further reinforces the Disco Volante’s shape, as does the gently curved bezel.  Three dial options are available at launch: Havana Disco, Disco Celeste, and Disco Verde. The Havana Disco is perhaps the most striking of the bunch, and acts as a link to Furlan Marri’s very first ...

Business News: Swatch Groups Profit Sinks and Inventories Grow SJX Watches
Blancpain stand out Jul 16, 2024

Business News: Swatch Groups Profit Sinks and Inventories Grow

The owner of brands like Omega and Longines, the Swatch Group just announced its results for the first half of 2024. The half-year numbers crystallised a slowdown that the watch industry has felt since late 2023. Revenue was down 14.3% to CHF3.44 billion, while operating profit plunged 70% to just CHF204 million, giving the group an operating margin of just 5.9%, compared to 17.1% from a year earlier. According to Swatch, the fall in revenue was “triggered by the sharp drop in demand for luxury goods in China (including Hong Kong SAR and Macau SAR)”. At the same time, wholesale sales fell over 10%, indicating that third-party retailers are ordering less watches from the group’s brands, which in turn indicates the retailers’ pessimism for the short- and medium term. Swatch also explained the poor results by noting the group did not “make any redundancies… [and] maintaining all production capacities and not laying off qualified staff”. This was done so that “the Group [will] recover more quickly and benefit more significantly from the next upswing.” The progressively weakening positions of each of the group’s brands relative to the competition – marques like Breguet and Blancpain stand out in this regard – imply this might be overoptimistic. Notably, Swatch stated “the Swatch brand bucked the negative trend” thanks to the bestselling MoonSwatch, but this was not (and will not) be sufficient to help the rest of the group given the low value of Swat...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Jorg’s Picks From Certina, Sinn, And Hublot Fratello
Certina Sinn Jul 15, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Jorg’s Picks From Certina, Sinn, And Hublot

With the summer holidays approaching, it’s time to talk about summer watches. Thomas started this series with his three favorite summer watches at three different price points. We are looking for one pick under €1,000, another under €10,000, and an unlimited-budget option. It seems like a fairly straightforward task, but as it turns out, it’s […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Jorg’s Picks From Certina, Sinn, And Hublot to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Nodus × Raven TrailTrekker Clay Fratello
Nodus Jul 13, 2024

Hands-On With The Nodus × Raven TrailTrekker Clay

Sometimes, a hands-on experience will turn you from a critic to an enthusiast. I had seen the gray Nodus × Raven TrailTrekker in photos and wasn’t sure what to expect. This collaborative effort from the American brands Nodus and Raven looks like a watch drawing influences from one we know all too well. But after […] Visit Hands-On With The Nodus × Raven TrailTrekker Clay to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Beaufort Seatrekker - A Big-Hearted Dual-Crown Diver From New Zealand Fratello
Jul 12, 2024

Hands-On With The Beaufort Seatrekker - A Big-Hearted Dual-Crown Diver From New Zealand

When I feel my appetite for retro filling up, something catches my eye in a typical fashion. A good dégradé dial does that to me, and green is supposedly the color of 2024, right? Combining this with a busier-than-usual Super Compressor-style dial sounds like too much, but the Beaufort Seatrekker might prove me wrong. I’ll […] Visit Hands-On With The Beaufort Seatrekker - A Big-Hearted Dual-Crown Diver From New Zealand to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 GMT Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - Featuring Tudor, Christopher Ward, RZE, And More Fratello
Christopher Ward RZE Jul 12, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 GMT Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - Featuring Tudor, Christopher Ward, RZE, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we return to highlighting some of the best watches of the first half of 2024. After already having discussed recently released dive watches, it’s now time to look at GMTs. With most people getting ready to travel for the summer holidays, this is a timely topic. We have […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 GMT Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - Featuring Tudor, Christopher Ward, RZE, And More to read the full article.

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jul 11, 2024

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic

A new livery for one of Zenith’s most popular models, the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic shares the styling of its siblings like the Defy Skyline 36 mm but with a few notable tweaks including a white ceramic case and blue-treated skeletonised movement. And though it appears to be a simple time-only watch, the Defy Skyline features a discreet complication in the form of a “lightning” small seconds hand that completes one rotation every ten seconds. Initial thoughts Zenith has recently been playing it safe with new launches by building on current bestsellers, like the Defy Skyline. The new skeleton in white ceramic is a good looking watch, and an excellent execution of one of Zenith’s modern-day classics. The combination is also novel. Although each key element of the watch is common in itself – a skeleton movement plus the white ceramic case and bracelet – they are relatively uncommon together. The Defy Skyline Skeleton on the wrist However, the Defy Skyline arguably tries too hard to capitalise on the recent (and waning) popularity of integrated-bracelet sports watches. It is not difficult to see a resemblance to the Royal Oak, in particular the one-off Royal Oak made for Only Watch 2023, making it a bit cliché. Priced at US$17,500, the Defy Skyline Skeleton in white ceramic is a decent value proposition compared to similar watches, most of which are from pricier brands like Hublot or Audemars Piguet. Besides the ceramic case and bracelet, it stands out ...

The Louis Vuitton Tambour One Year On: Has The Infatuation Lingered? Fratello
Louis Vuitton Tambour One Year Jul 10, 2024

The Louis Vuitton Tambour One Year On: Has The Infatuation Lingered?

This week, exactly one year has passed since the Louis Vuitton Tambour 40mm Automatic appeared in its new braceleted guise. With heavy hitters like the Polo ’79 having appeared this year, what are my thoughts on the Louis Vuitton Tambour one year on? There’s no escaping from the fact that retro and integrated bracelets are […] Visit The Louis Vuitton Tambour One Year On: Has The Infatuation Lingered? to read the full article.

Hands-on – The Delightful Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Monochrome
Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Jul 10, 2024

Hands-on – The Delightful Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph

This spring, Montblanc introduced the latest addition to the Unveiled Minerva series, the Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph. Like the 2022-2023 releases, the Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronographs, it showcases the beautiful mechanics of the underlying movement in an exciting and visually captivating way. The new Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph continues the inverted calibre concept with […]

Introducing – The Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll with a Mesmerising Chrysocolla Dial Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll Jul 10, 2024

Introducing – The Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll with a Mesmerising Chrysocolla Dial

Ulysse Nardin has always been associated with the sea, from its early days as a purveyor of precision marine chronometers to its current nautical-inspired collection, which includes classical references like the Marine Torpilleur or more contemporary, high-performance Divers. Offered in three case sizes, the more compact 39mm model returns with a stunning mottled neon blue […]

Grand Seiko Unveils the Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Unveils Jul 9, 2024

Grand Seiko Unveils the Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion”

Following last year’s SBGA481, Grand Seiko continues to expand the Sport Collection “Tokyo Lion” series inspired by the big cat in the Grand Seiko emblem. Like its predecessor, the Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” sports a stylised, angular titanium case inspired by a lion’s paw and a textured dial modelled on a mane, now joined by a red GMT hand. Initial thoughts The “Tokyo Lion” is one of the most distinctive case designs in Grand Seiko’s large catalogue, and also the flagship given its complex finishing (and accompanying price). While most Grand Seiko watches opt for patterned dials and conservative, even bland, case styles, the “Tokyo Lion” makes a statement with its is generous dimensions and angular styling. The design is also particularly suited to Grand Seiko’s signature flat-polishing technique. With their wide, flat surfaces, the claw-inspired lugs are an excellent medium to showcase zaratsu polishing. It is, however, a large case at almost 45 mm wide and 15 mm high, so it’s catered to someone seeking a bold sports watch, and not an old-school Grand Seiko dress watch. The texture of the dial is striking, even though Grand Seiko has no shortage of dial patterns in its offerings. The dial artfully mimics a lion’s mane, giving it more visual depth than the typical Grand Seiko dial. Though few, the red accents on the dial add just enough colour and complement the ivory dial well. The dial might have been slightly dull without th...

Hands-On With The Forstner 5-Row Beads Of Rice Bracelet Fratello
Jul 7, 2024

Hands-On With The Forstner 5-Row Beads Of Rice Bracelet

The Forstner 5-Row Beads of Rice bracelet is the brand’s latest option for those who enjoy the look of a vintage accessory with modern quality. The choice to recreate this Gay Frères model from the ’40s is intriguing as it’s not the most famous. How does this bracelet blend with modern and vintage watches? Crucially, […] Visit Hands-On With The Forstner 5-Row Beads Of Rice Bracelet to read the full article.

Introducing: A Trio Of Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph Watches For US Navy Aviation Squadrons Fratello
Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph Watches Jul 5, 2024

Introducing: A Trio Of Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph Watches For US Navy Aviation Squadrons

Breitling takes off in formation with three Avenger B01 Night Mission chronographs for elite forces in United States naval aviation. Specifically, the first two are for the test squadrons the Bloodhounds, stationed at Point Mugu, California, and the Dust Devils, based in China Lake, California. The third edition is for the US Naval Academy in […] Visit Introducing: A Trio Of Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph Watches For US Navy Aviation Squadrons to read the full article.

IAMWATCH in Singapore, an Independent Watchmaking-Centric Event SJX Watches
Urwerk Florian Bédat Jul 5, 2024

IAMWATCH in Singapore, an Independent Watchmaking-Centric Event

Singapore retailer The Hour Glass is staging IAMWATCH over four days in October 2024. The event is conceived as a gathering for watch enthusiasts with notable independent watchmakers in attendance, including Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk, Florian Bédat and Gaël Petermann, Kari Voutilainen, Raúl Pagès, and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia. IAMWATCH will serve as a platform for face-to-face engagement between watch enthusiasts and noted industry personalities like Aurel Bacs, Jean Arnault, Maximilian Büsser, and Pierre Biver, providing enthusiasts opportunities to connect and learn. The event includes presentations, lectures, and fireside chats with more than 40 industry insiders. IAMWATCH will be held at the Singapore Edition hotel. Admission is free and open to the public daily October 18-20, from 11 am-8 pm, however, registration is required and it can be done online at Iamwatch.com.  

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB is Now Regular Production SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB Jul 4, 2024

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB is Now Regular Production

Several months back, Tudor quietly released the Black Bay Ceramic Blue exclusively for the Visa Cash App RB (VCARB) Formula One team, with the dial colour modelled on the Visa logo. Today, the watch is available to the public (while the VCARB drivers will sport the more recent rainbow-dial “Chameleon” edition). Initial thoughts Tudor often listens to its audience, giving them what they want. Examples include the more compact Black Bay 58 GMT, and now the Black Bay Ceramic Blue. Intrinsically, the new Black Bay is technically and aesthetically perfect in its own way. It is the same Black Bay that has remained the brand’s bestseller since its launch, but in an unusual combination of black ceramic and blue. The brand has rolled out a number of special editions recently, which might dilute the concept somewhat. That said, this is the first instance of a publicly available Black Bay Ceramic special edition (unlike say the Black Bay 58), which makes it appealing. That said, the Black Bay Ceramic Blue is a great value proposition, as is usually the case for Tudor. It combines a ceramic case with an impressively spec’ed in-house movement that’s both METAS- and COSC-Certified, all for US$5,150, a price that few can rival. Visa Blue The highlight of the new Black Bay Ceramic is the matte blue dial (that’s arguably similar to the discontinued Rolex Submariner “Smurf” ref. 116619). It’s matched with applied hour markers and snowflake hands filled with white Super-Lum...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - RJ’s Picks From Longines, Cartier, Tudor, Sinn, And Fortis Fratello
Longines Cartier Tudor Sinn Jul 4, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - RJ’s Picks From Longines, Cartier, Tudor, Sinn, And Fortis

It has already been nine months since our last series of articles about the best watches under €5,000. I had to look up my choices from last time (new watches from Longines, Tudor, and Seiko and a pre-owned pick from Omega). I still stand by those picks, but my mood is slightly different these days, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - RJ’s Picks From Longines, Cartier, Tudor, Sinn, And Fortis to read the full article.

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Anoma A1 Worn & Wound
Jul 3, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Anoma A1

The age of the circular watch has ended. The mid-century divers, chronographs, and Calatravas are out. Ok, not really, but it looks like shaped, asymmetric, and sculptural watches are the next coming trend. Kicking this new era off have been a few releases ranging from the high-end and exclusive by Berneron to the mid-tier and provocative by Toledano + Chan to the relatively accessible yet exotic Anoma, whose first watch I’ve had the chance to spend some time with. On June 6th, 2024, Anoma Watches launched the A1, an asymmetrical, triangular-shaped watch with an appealing, soft look. Like a weathered pebble of polished steel, the A1 mixes a sense of mid-century watch and industrial design with a modern sensibility, preventing it from feeling like a pastiche recreation. Well-sized at around 38mm and with a vibrant blue dial with a green tint, it’s a memorable launch from a new brand. In the video below, I discuss the brand, the context of the A1’s launch, the design, and what it’s like to wear it. As this is the only shaped watch I’ve ever worn for any period, it was an interesting experience. At first, it was a bit jarring, perhaps, but its quirky charm won me over. With collectors, new and old, having more choices and easier access to watches than ever, brands need to offer something that will stand out yet not be just a novelty. With the A1, Anoma has achieved this, at least in my opinion. Priced at £1,300, or about $1,650 USD, the Anoma A1 is available for pr...