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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

All of the New Portugiesers from IWC Worn & Wound
Rolex Apr 23, 2024

All of the New Portugiesers from IWC

One of the prevailing narratives to come out of Watches & Wonders 2024 was that it was, across the board, a pretty quiet year. That may have been true for some, but others, like IWC, came to play. A good portion of the attention IWC got this year was (justifiably) directed at the new Portugieser Eternal Calendar that Zach Kazan introduced a few weeks ago, but that watch was far from the only Portugieser IWC brought to Geneva this year. The Portugieser is not the first watch that springs to mind for most of us when contemplating IWC - far more likely would be some sort of Pilot’s Watch or, more recently, the Ingenieur - but it has been, at times subtly, possibly the most important collection in the IWC catalog. I know so many collectors for whom the Portugieser was their first nice watch, and it is a model I continue to see in the wild, especially in cities like New York or London where people still routinely wear suits to work. IWC, like Rolex, is a brand that prefers evolution over revolution when it comes to its designs - one only has to look at the slow transformation of the Pilot’s Watch for evidence of that. The last few years have seen the brand slowly tinkering with the Portugieser line, bringing it up to date and refining what was already a great watch to make it better. This year, they continued that process and introduced a slew of new models and colorways, all of which come together to make up possibly the best lineup of Portugiesers ever assembled. Co...

Hands-On With The New Zenith Defy Extreme Diver - The Return Of A Zenith Dive Watch Fratello
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver - Apr 23, 2024

Hands-On With The New Zenith Defy Extreme Diver - The Return Of A Zenith Dive Watch

Zenith introduced two new models worth discussing this year for different reasons. The brand’s Defy Skyline Chronograph was a logical next step for the series. It even felt like the watch had been part of the collection for some time. It just seems like a natural progression for the Defy Skyline. The second big new […] Visit Hands-On With The New Zenith Defy Extreme Diver - The Return Of A Zenith Dive Watch to read the full article.

Oris Aquis Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Apr 22, 2024

Oris Aquis Buyer's Guide

The Oris Aquis collection of sporty dive watches is one of the Swiss brand’s most popular - and notably hosted the first Oris watch outfitted with the in-house Caliber 400 - even though it traces its history back just over a decade, to 2011. Like many watch models that catch on strongly with both collectors and casual fans, however, it actually represents the successful evolution of several models that preceded it. Here’s everything you need to know about the Oris Aquis, from its history, to the most prominent models available now, to its central role in Oris’ environmental sustainability initiatives.  ORIS ORIGINS AND AQUIS EVOLUTION Oris, one of the watch world’s few remaining major independent brands, traces its history back to 1904, when it was founded in Hölstein, in the German-speaking Swiss canton of Basel-Landschaft, by Paul Catlin and Georges Christian. The company, which the co-founders named after a brook near the factory, expanded throughout the early 1900s, at one point becoming the largest employer in Hölstein, with over 300 employees and factories throughout Switzerland. In 1925, Oris began making wrist watches, and in 1928, under the leadership of Christian’s brother-in-law Oscar Herzog, a new era of expansion and innovation began. Oris started making its own escapements in the watershed year of 1938, which also saw the release of the brand’s iconic Big Crown watch with pointer date function. The first automatic Oris watch was launched i...

Let’s Get Integrated: Five of Our Favorite Integrated Bracelet Sports Watches at Around $10,000 Worn & Wound
Cartier Starting Apr 22, 2024

Let’s Get Integrated: Five of Our Favorite Integrated Bracelet Sports Watches at Around $10,000

Not everyone loves a nice integrated bracelet watch in their collection, and there’s a few reasonable reasons why that may be. For one, you’re going to be stuck with the same bracelet for the rest of the watch’s natural life unless there’s an OEM leather or rubber equivalent offered by the brand (or perhaps on the aftermarket). Secondly, the integrated bracelet look can be somewhat of an acquired taste, not everyone is into that – and depending on the model the watch can appear dated, reminiscent of those oval cased watches of the past like the Universal Geneve Ultra-Slim Shadow on the Milanese bracelet.  But, for those of us who have caught the integrated bug, there’s no telling the depths we will explore in order to find that perfect integrated bracelet watch. This is a segment that will require a little more patience and finesse to discover. Once you buy the watch you have your sights set on, you can’t change much about the look afterwards, and the saying buy once, cry once really fits this category here.  Santos De Cartier Starting the list off with an absolute classic, and if you want to start here – and end here, I’d have a hard time disagreeing with you. The Santos De Cartier is an absolute icon in the watch world, dating all the way back to 1904 when it was designed by Louis Cartier for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Its roots are deeply ingrained in the evolution of aviation and it retains the title of the world’s first pilot wa...

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 25 Years of the Datograph Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet would launch their own Apr 18, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 25 Years of the Datograph

This is a pretty big year for A. Lange & Söhne. We’ve hit 25 years of the Datograph, which made its debut in 1999, and Lange is celebrating with a pair of very special limited editions of their iconic chronograph. One of them is truly off the wall, and we’ll get to that next week. For now, we’ll take a look at the Datograph Up/Down Limited Edition in white gold, with a blue dial. It’s a perfectly lovely example of the watch that many Lange collectors will insist put the brand on the horological map, and a strong counterpoint to the other Datograph that we’ll tell you more about soon.  First, it’s crucial to understand the importance of the Datograph not just in Lange’s collection, but in high end watchmaking writ large. When it was first unveiled in 1999, Lange was a young brand, only five years into their relaunch. They had earned the respect of connoisseurs in the late 1990s, but the introduction of their first in-house chronograph caliber with the Datograph took them to another level. This was years before Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet would launch their own in-house chronograph calibers, in an era where using supplied calibers from chronograph was common for brands at every level, including the absolute upper tier. It can be argued that the Datograph ushered in an arms race of sorts that would find many of the highest end watchmaking manufactures in a constant state of one-upmanship that goes on to this day.  There have been a variety of Datograph...

Watch Spotting At Watches And Wonders 2024 Fratello
Apr 18, 2024

Watch Spotting At Watches And Wonders 2024

Walking around in everyday life, you might spot a watch or two. If you’re lucky, you’ll see something interesting on someone’s wrist. Depending on where you live and work, it will likely vary, but these encounters are not exactly common. However, from the minute we stepped onto our Geneva-bound plane, it was clear that this […] Visit Watch Spotting At Watches And Wonders 2024 to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: Thomas’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases Fratello
Apr 17, 2024

Fratello Favorites: Thomas’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases

Watches and Wonders is a somewhat overwhelming experience. You are bombarded with new watches left and right, making it hard to separate the good from the average. But when the dust settles, some watches linger in your mind. Some have that X factor that most lack. These are those watches for me. These are the […] Visit Fratello Favorites: Thomas’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases to read the full article.

Fratelli Stories: The WWI Watches Providing A Glimpse Into Our Past Fratello
Apr 16, 2024

Fratelli Stories: The WWI Watches Providing A Glimpse Into Our Past

Mark Nagle is a passionate collector of vintage watches. His focus is vintage timepieces from World War One. We spoke to him about this particular fascination as part of our Fratelli Stories series. Read on. Like many of you, I am a fan of vintage watches. Sure, we cover a lot of new watch releases […] Visit Fratelli Stories: The WWI Watches Providing A Glimpse Into Our Past to read the full article.

Hands-on – A Statement in Style… the AP Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm in Yellow Gold Monochrome
Audemars Piguet unveiled Apr 15, 2024

Hands-on – A Statement in Style… the AP Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm in Yellow Gold

In 2022, Audemars Piguet unveiled a plethora of new Royal Oak models to commemorate the 50th anniversary of this iconic line. Among these releases stood the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm reference 26240, adorned, like other anniversary automatic editions, with a special rotor sporting a prominent 50 logo. However, by 2023, these gave way to regular models […]

Six For Six: German Watches That Compete With Swiss Timepieces Fratello
Apr 14, 2024

Six For Six: German Watches That Compete With Swiss Timepieces

When we think of watches, our minds are often first cast to Switzerland’s many manufacturers. But Germany makes fantastic timepieces, and perhaps it is worth giving Switzerland’s larger northern neighbor a look too when on the hunt for a new watch. Let’s look at some German watches! Switzerland has a proud tradition of watchmaking that […] Visit Six For Six: German Watches That Compete With Swiss Timepieces to read the full article.

Our Morning with Cartier Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Cartier can be thought Apr 12, 2024

Our Morning with Cartier

There’s really nothing like the Cartier meeting at Watches & Wonders. Along with Rolex and Patek Philippe, Cartier can be thought of as an anchor brand of the show. They have one of the largest booth spaces, with nonstop foot traffic, and a veritable army of cheery employees who are happy to show you watch, after watch, after watch in your meeting. It’s a seemingly never-ending parade of beautiful objects. To me, that’s what an event like this is all about. Why are we here if not to gawk? In terms of sheer volume, Cartier is your best bet for that.  What’s wonderful about Cartier, though, is that the beautiful objects aren’t necessarily completely unobtainable, and the brand works hard to make even the most head turning pieces feel approachable (at least in the context of the show). While you’ll see your fair share of unique pieces and watches that have no listed price because if you have to ask, well, you know how it goes, there are accessible ways into the brand that give you plenty of what is essential about Cartier.  My favorite example of this for 2024 is a new dial variant for the Santos, in a metallic brown with a gradient effect. It’s lovely, and pretty clearly meant to evoke something that has aged naturally over a period of many years. It’s available as both a large and medium Santos, but it’s very clear that the medium is the “correct” size for this watch. It works considerably better when it’s a little more discreet.  It joins a growi...

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Apr 11, 2024

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar

Today, we look at the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar. This is one of my favorite models from the brand and certainly warrants attention whenever it’s updated. It’s never easy to cleanly pack in so many complications, but JLC seems to have pulled it off again. You can call me a heretic, but […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.

Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References Worn & Wound
Montblanc Expands Apr 10, 2024

Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References

The Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date collection, already notable for its unique glacial-inspired aesthetics, welcomes two new additions to its line-up: Bronze and Burgundy. Both models expand upon the Iced Sea collection to bring a moodier, more sophisticated look. The first of these, Bronze, marries a black glacier pattern dial with a bronze-tone case, a nod to the golden hues of dusk over frosty terrains. This reference stands out with its use of cupro aluminum for the case – a unique alloy that surpasses traditional bronze in resistance to wear and corrosion, promising durability while aging gracefully into a charming patina. It also introduces a bi-color unidirectional bezel, a new logo reflecting Montblanc’s heritage, and a titanium caseback adorned with a scuba diver motif, all complemented by a versatile black rubber strap with a brown accent. The Burgundy model, on the other hand, captures the deep reds of evening light on ice, paired with a black ceramic bezel. It comes with an interchangeable stainless-steel bracelet, ensuring a perfect fit for the wearer. Both models exhibit the meticulous craftsmanship Montblanc is known for, utilizing a special gratté-boisé technique for the dials to create an impression of depth and luminosity, while the casebacks feature detailed 3D engravings achieved through precise laser work. Each model’s case comes in at 41mm, accompanied by a sapphire crystal and equipped with an MB 24.17/SW200 automatic movement that promises...

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces Apr 10, 2024

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black

Adding to the successful Monsieur collection, the Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Edition is essentially a new colour for an existing model, but nonetheless proves that Chanel is serious about watchmaking. Thoughtfully designed inside and out, the Intense Black adds racing-inspired cladding to one of the most intriguing watches from outside the establishment watchmakers. Initial thoughts Watches like the Monsieur serve as a reminder that good watches can come from unexpected places – even brands perceived to be “fashion” – and should be a wake-up call for those who think Chanel is just a maker of cosmetics and handbags. Technically competent and well designed, the Monsieur collection is a testament to the brand’s commitment to its watchmaking programme. Like the original Monsieur Superleggera launched in 2021, the Intense Black Edition features a 42 mm case made up of a steel inner case with a ceramic cladding, hence superleggera, which is Italian for “super light”. In this respect, the Superleggera benefits enormously from Chanel’s ownership of G&F; Châtelain, which one of just two Swiss suppliers of ceramic watch cases. Despite the Intense Black moniker, the watch is only slightly more black than the 2021 original, which had a few red accents. In fact, they are similar enough that the yellow “Superleggera” script on the dial might prove to be the easiest way to tell the two versions apart. Though the two versions are largely identical, it i...

Introducing: The New Czapek Promenade Collection - A Minimalist Approach Defined By Interesting Details Fratello
Czapek Promenade Collection - Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The New Czapek Promenade Collection - A Minimalist Approach Defined By Interesting Details

A small brand like Czapek does not release a new product line often. That’s why every new one is special. Czapek found inspiration within its portfolio for the new Promenade collection. It fuses influences from the Quai des Bergues and the Antarctique lines. The result is a new line of watches that combines many details […] Visit Introducing: The New Czapek Promenade Collection - A Minimalist Approach Defined By Interesting Details to read the full article.

Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Models - PAM1405, PAM1466, PAM1543, PAM1507, And PAM1565 Fratello
Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Models Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Models - PAM1405, PAM1466, PAM1543, PAM1507, And PAM1565

Panerai has been affiliated with the prestigious America’s Cup since 2017. Additionally, since 2019, the brand has sponsored the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team, regularly celebrating that connection with Luna Rossa watches. For Watches and Wonders 2024, we get five new additions to that yacht-racing-inspired collection. Let’s have a closer look. The new Panerai Luna […] Visit Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Models - PAM1405, PAM1466, PAM1543, PAM1507, And PAM1565 to read the full article.

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Fratello
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph

The TAG Heuer Monaco is an absolute fan favorite among racing enthusiasts and watch lovers alike. Since its inception in 1969, it has seen many iterations and versions, some basic, some fancy. Today, we see the introduction of two rather high-end versions of the Monaco. This is the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph. Let’s have a look! […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph to read the full article.

L.U. Chopard Introduces Two New Sector-Dial Beauties In Lucent Steel Fratello
Chopard Introduces Two New Sector-Dial Apr 10, 2024

L.U. Chopard Introduces Two New Sector-Dial Beauties In Lucent Steel

It’s been a lot of fun to witness the resurgence of Chopard over the past several years. It has transformed into a brand I look forward to hearing from during Watches and Wonders. For 2024, L.U. Chopard has brought us two gorgeous pieces in Lucent Steel. These watches, with their sector dials, will likely prove […] Visit L.U. Chopard Introduces Two New Sector-Dial Beauties In Lucent Steel to read the full article.

Introducing – The Denim-Toned Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980G Monochrome
Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980G One Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Denim-Toned Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980G

One trend that has asserted itself at Patek Philippe this year is denim, or rather, the colour of blue jeans, appearing on the dials and straps of several novelties, like the Worldtime with Date and Aquanaut Travel Time. A much sought-after model, the Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980, was discontinued earlier this year. Much to the […]

Hallelujah! The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT finally exists Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Apr 9, 2024

Hallelujah! The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT finally exists

The long-awaited, thinner take on the Black Bay GMT is finally here in all its Bakelite-like glory. The case slims down to an impressive 12.8mm in height, retaining the Black Bay 58’s 39mm diameter. The watch is available on either a rubber strap or riveted three-link bracelet. Pretty much as soon as the Tudor Black … ContinuedThe post Hallelujah! The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT finally exists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The New Tudor Black Bay METAS Makes A Monochromatic Debut Fratello
Tudor Black Bay METAS Makes Apr 9, 2024

The New Tudor Black Bay METAS Makes A Monochromatic Debut

As Watches And Wonders 2024 kicks off, Tudor introduces the latest incarnation of the upgraded Black Bay model. Following in the METAS-certified footsteps of last year’s introduction, in 2024, the red and gold accents are stripped away in favor of a monochromatic look. And it turns out that when you take away the signature livery […] Visit The New Tudor Black Bay METAS Makes A Monochromatic Debut to read the full article.

Zenith Revives the Defy A3648 Diver SJX Watches
Zenith Revives Apr 9, 2024

Zenith Revives the Defy A3648 Diver

Zenith has return to one of its most striking vintage watches with the Defy Revival A3648. A re-issue of the A3648 of 1969, the latest Defy Revival shares the same angular, 37 mm case and distinctive fourteen-sided bezel. While the newly released model shares the styling of the original – as well as the 600 m depth rating – it has been upgraded with modern materials, like a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal insert. Initial thoughts From the Defy Revival A3691 to the Chronomaster Revival, Zenith has frequently turned to its vintage watches for reissues. The brand’s approach to reissues is straightforward: maintain the original aesthetics as much as possible while upgrading them technically modern movements, superior materials, and more robust bracelets. While not a creative formula in any sense, it is an effective one, particularly with interesting and appealing vintage models. This same formula has been applied to the Defy Revival A3648. It is a byproduct of analysing historical blueprints, thereby staying faithful to the original in most aspects, including design and the 600 m depth rating. Priced at CHF7400, the Defy Revival A3648 is a decent value proposition, though not quite to the level that Zenith was historically known for. It’s a faithful vintage re-issue of a distinctive design that’s been updated with modern materials and quality that results in robustness and reliability superior to the vintage original. Tasty Orange The defining characteristics of t...

The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph Fratello
IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Apr 9, 2024

The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph

You might have to look twice, but you’re looking at the updated IWC Portugieser Automatic 42. These models have a completely re-engineered case construction with a more slender side profile. The bezel-less watches feature double-domed box-style glass sapphire crystals for unobstructed views of the sunburst dials or the versions finished with 15 layers of transparent […] Visit The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph to read the full article.

H. Moser & Cie goes fully see-through with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie goes fully Apr 8, 2024

H. Moser & Cie goes fully see-through with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton

The second skeleton model from the independent watchmaker, it uses the same codes but in a new look. Highly complex with a double hairspring tourbillon at 6 o’clock. A great, yet pricey addition to the skeletonised integrated sports watch segment, at $86,900. The Streamliner has become an incredibly popular offering from independent watchmaker H. Moser … ContinuedThe post H. Moser & Cie goes fully see-through with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On With The New Zelos Spearfish Dual Time - A Complex Titanium Surprise Fratello
Apr 7, 2024

Hands-On With The New Zelos Spearfish Dual Time - A Complex Titanium Surprise

It may seem like an odd question, and knowing Elshan Tang’s brand progression personally, I will not be asking it, but you might. If you’re used to his tough budget-priced divers, this new Spearfish is a leap in price and style. Is the open-worked Swiss taste worth it? I love seeing small brands climb the […] Visit Hands-On With The New Zelos Spearfish Dual Time - A Complex Titanium Surprise to read the full article.

Fratelli Stories: Finding An Omega Seamaster On The Ocean Floor Fratello
Omega Seamaster Apr 6, 2024

Fratelli Stories: Finding An Omega Seamaster On The Ocean Floor

We all like the idea of finding lost treasure. Today, we get to speak to one of our readers who has turned it into a successful hobby. He has become a watch collector without ever buying a watch. Read on.  In the spirit of reflecting our shared enthusiasm for this hobby, we have been featuring […] Visit Fratelli Stories: Finding An Omega Seamaster On The Ocean Floor to read the full article.

The IWC Fliegerchronograph 3706 - A Trusty Companion And Neo-Vintage Gem Fratello
IWC Fliegerchronograph 3706 - Apr 6, 2024

The IWC Fliegerchronograph 3706 - A Trusty Companion And Neo-Vintage Gem

We are lucky to have reached a phase in the modern industry where the standards of mass production are such that watches can endure all sorts of conditions. The adage “they don’t make them like they used to” hasn’t entirely panned out with watchmaking, at least regarding production quality (design, aesthetics, and luxury culture certainly […] Visit The IWC Fliegerchronograph 3706 - A Trusty Companion And Neo-Vintage Gem to read the full article.