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Why lug-to-lug matters more than diameter (and how to actually pick a watch that fits)

Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Watch Movements: A Comprehensive Guide and FAQ Teddy Baldassarre
May 8, 2025

Watch Movements: A Comprehensive Guide and FAQ

Watch movements, like the engines in cars, are the mechanisms that make the whole thing run, and if you're new to the world of avid watch enthusiasm, there's more to learn about them, and how they work, than you think. In this comprehensive guide to watch movements, we will attempt to answer every question that you might have about movements - their different types, their important parts, who makes them, and even a bit of history and trivia.  What is a Mechanical Movement? A mechanical movement, the oldest type of movement in horology, uses a coiled metal spring, called a mainspring, that releases energy as it uncoils through a series of gears to drive a weighted, oscillating wheel called a balance wheel. The balance wheel’s oscillations are linked to an escapement, which periodically releases the gear train to move the hands forward to record the passing of hours, minutes, and seconds. Originally, the mainspring needed to be wound periodically by hand, first by a key, then by a winding crown attached via a stem to the movement. Later, a type of movement was developed that could be wound “automatically,” through the motions of the wearer’s wrist. What is the difference between a mechanical movement and an automatic movement? It isn’t really a question of difference: the latter is simply a specific type of the former, à la a Cognac and a brandy. The two main types of mechanical movements are manually wound (or “hand-winding”), in which the user needs to p...

Introducing: The Impressive And Colorful Farer Lissom Collection Fratello
Farer Lissom Collection Farer watches May 8, 2025

Introducing: The Impressive And Colorful Farer Lissom Collection

Farer watches always stand out in the large crowd of available options today. The British brand creates watches that distinguish themselves through playful yet clever designs. The elegant case shapes, arrow-shaped brand logo, distinct numeral style, and colorful dials ensure that the watches are instantly recognizable. In particular, the colors stand out to me. Farer […] Visit Introducing: The Impressive And Colorful Farer Lissom Collection to read the full article.

Just Because - The Colliding Worlds of Cars & Watches with The Horology Club Europe and Le Carage Monochrome
May 8, 2025

Just Because - The Colliding Worlds of Cars & Watches with The Horology Club Europe and Le Carage

The rise of interest in watches has sparked many exciting initiatives to share the passion and knowledge for watches and related fields of interest. One such initiative is a watch club, whether online or physical. Like-minded people connect over watchmaking in general, specific brands, or even specific watches, which is nothing new, and it’s an […]

Brew Introduces the Metric Manual Wind, with a Swiss Mechanical Movement Worn & Wound
Brew Introduces May 7, 2025

Brew Introduces the Metric Manual Wind, with a Swiss Mechanical Movement

Brew’s recent history has been marked by two distinct types of watch releases. There are watches that incorporate bold design choices in established platforms, like Metric Star from last year, or our own Metric Chrono Regulator Lumint limited edition. These releases take a distinct point of view on something that is familiar to Brew fans and watch enthusiasts more generally, and keep moving the ball forward on the brand’s aesthetic. Then there are more substantial releases that feel like the brand is reaching for greater heights, toying with an incrementally higher end product. The titanium Metric Chronograph, for instance, seemed like clear upping of the ante in terms of what the Brew catalog might look like across price points, materials, and so on, as did the first mechanical Metric when it was released almost two years ago. If you’ve spent any time at all talking to Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer, you know that he has no shortage of ideas for the brand, so there’s a prevailing sense that a watch that completely changes how we think about Brew could come at any time. The new Metric Manual Wind might be the best example of that to date.  It makes sense, in a lot of ways, that a watch like this would come now. This year marks Brew’s tenth anniversary, and the last decade (especially the last five years or so) have seen the brand grow at a clip rarely seen in the microbrand space. The Metric has proven to be a particularly durable platform for design innovations a...

Auctions: Lavish and Exotic Cartier Clocks at Phillips SJX Watches
Cartier Clocks May 6, 2025

Auctions: Lavish and Exotic Cartier Clocks at Phillips

The spring auction season kicks off in less than a week, and while there are many interesting lots worthy of attention, there are a few museum-grade Cartier clocks at Phillips that demand a close look. All made between 1905 and 1940, the most exceptional pieces date to the roaring twenties when Cartier was synonymous with Art Deco extravagance. The lots are spread across two auctions – Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, which takes place on May 10th and 11th, and Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX which takes place from May 23rd to May 25th. There are three important mystery clocks hitting the block, the most significant being portico clock No. 3, along with a handful of artfully engraved jade desk clocks. Rounding out the bunch, an amusing prism clock should keep things interesting for those bidding with smaller budgets. An introduction to Cartier mystery clocks In the early twentieth century, Cartier was on top of the world. England’s King Edward VII had just granted the firm a royal warrant, calling Cartier the “jeweler of kings” and, perhaps more significantly, “The king of jewelers.” But the Parisian firm wasn’t coasting on this praise, and shortly thereafter stunned the world with a clock with hands that appeared to float in space. This ‘mysterious’ effect was achieved by attaching the hands to rotating glass plates that were driven from the edge. The first such clock was the Modèle A, which debuted in 1912. A Cartier Modèle A. Image – Phillips The mystery cl...

Celebrating 60 Years Of The Omega Speedmaster Becoming NASA Flight Qualified Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Becoming NASA Flight May 6, 2025

Celebrating 60 Years Of The Omega Speedmaster Becoming NASA Flight Qualified

As I landed in Zurich last Monday, I wondered what flying must have been like 60 years ago. Besides the cigarette smoke, one of the most significant differences would’ve been the vital role that analog tools played in guiding the plane to its destination and doing so safely and on time. Today, it feels as […] Visit Celebrating 60 Years Of The Omega Speedmaster Becoming NASA Flight Qualified to read the full article.

Highlights: A Noteworthy Trio from Patek Philippe at Phillips Geneva SJX Watches
Patek Philippe May 5, 2025

Highlights: A Noteworthy Trio from Patek Philippe at Phillips Geneva

It’s hard to stand out among the 194-lots in Phillips’ incredibly stacked upcoming Geneva auction. The catalog for The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI includes 36 watches from Patek Philippe, including familiar favorites like two ref. 5004s and an assortment of Nautilus and Aquanaut models. But three watches are especially notable. These highlights are led by the only known ref. 3448 “Padellone” perpetual calendar in pink gold – a retailer-signed example at that – followed by a landmark “grand” complication with Hagmann case, and a Beyer-signed pocket watch with a portal to Amsterdam on the back. The auction takes place on May 10 and 11, 2025, at the Hotel President Wilson in Geneva. Lot 74: Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in pink gold signed “Freccero” Patek Philippe’s first self-winding perpetual calendar, the ref. 3448, was primarily made in yellow or white gold – except for this example in pink gold. Besides the unique case material, this also has a retailer-signed dial. In addition, it’s in incredible condition, with unpolished lugs so sharp you could almost cut yourself. It features an early “second series” dial, with a “dimple” style minute track and engraved, enamelled markings. Even though the movement inside the ref. 3448 is one of the most beautiful automatics ever made, the cal. 27-460 doesn’t skate by on pretty privilege. The calibre is technically competent: with a free-sprung gyro-max balance, overcoil hairspring, and Patek Philippe’...

Hands-On With The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV In Platinum And Rose Gold Fratello
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV May 2, 2025

Hands-On With The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV In Platinum And Rose Gold

Last week, Jorg explained how the Alpine Eagle has carved out its spot in an overcrowded category. The brand’s persistence and creativity in drastically changing things made the collection a success story. Today, it’s my turn to look at Chopard’s new Quattro Mark IV models from its elegant L.U.C collection. The Quattro is famous for […] Visit Hands-On With The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV In Platinum And Rose Gold to read the full article.

Hot Take: Two New Certina DS-1 Big Date Watches With Matte Cases Fratello
Certina DS-1 Big Date Watches May 1, 2025

Hot Take: Two New Certina DS-1 Big Date Watches With Matte Cases

Today, we’ll briefly examine two new Certina DS-1 Big Date Collection variants. While we’ve typically covered some of Certina’s sportier watches here on Fratello, it’s important to remember that models like the DS-1 form the foundation for a brand. Watch nerds aside, pieces like this sell in large numbers. The DS-1 Big Date was introduced […] Visit Hot Take: Two New Certina DS-1 Big Date Watches With Matte Cases to read the full article.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Review Apr 30, 2025

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Review

There’s not much left to say about the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 that hasn’t already been said. It’s a watch that feels like it’s always been there, even though it was only released by Tissot in 2021, at exactly the right moment in history. With integrated-bracelet designs on the upswing, Tissot brought one to market that was fun, well designed, and well priced. It also happened to be based on an original ‘70s Seastar design from the brand. It was an instant hit, and the brand was quick to capitalize on its initial success by fleshing out a full collection, including different sizes, materials, and even movement options, culminating in the PRX Powermatic 80.  The PRX Powermatic 80 was introduced in both 35mm and 40mm variations, and quickly saw a variety of dial, case, and strap options that brought a diverse personality to the collection as a whole. In 2025, it feels like a fully mature staple of Tissot’s offerings, and the integrated-bracelet trend is showing no real signs of slowing down (more thoughts on that later), which should grant the watch a bright future. That said, I (and many others) will be curious to see how the PRX ends up evolving, and whether or not it will have real staying power for generations to come. Either way, for what it is right now, it’s a tough watch to beat when it comes to value and personality.  It's that combination that is the real draw of the PRX, and today, in 2025, it’s only strengthened. The PRX Powermatic 80 remains w...

Portrait of a Watch Collector: Photographer Elliott O’Donovan Worn & Wound
Casio s his dad wore Apr 30, 2025

Portrait of a Watch Collector: Photographer Elliott O’Donovan

Elliott O’Donavan’s go-to watch is his IWC Mark XVIII. His go-to camera is his Leica Q3. The DC-based photographer has taken portraits of seemingly everyone in town. Corporate executives, activists, politicians, journalists - his client list is a veritable who’s who of Washington, DC, with famous faces like CNN’s Jake Tapper and former Secretary of the Army Christine Wormuth popping up on Elliott’s Instagram feed. And he sees a lot of overlap in his profession and his approach to collecting watches. “The way that I look at watches really describes the way that I photograph portraits. I don’t want my portraits to look dated. I don’t want them to look like something that was shot in the early aughts or in a certain decade. I want it to be like, ‘He could have taken that shot yesterday, or that could be a shot from 1960 or 1970,’” said Elliott in an interview with Worn & Wound. Elliott’s interest in watches traces back to the digital Casios his dad wore when Elliott was a child. “That was very much just for utility,” said Elliot. “But also to me, it had, like a certain element of style to it.” That interest in his father’s watch became an opportunity for father-son bonding, with Elliott recalling that his dad would take him out to buy inexpensive watches starting when he was about seven.  “I would usually get the same watch that he had,” said Elliot. Over the years, his tastes evolved and his budget grew. Today, Elliott has a neovintag...

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Review Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Apr 28, 2025

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Review

The pilot watch genre is a funny thing. These watches are marketed and sold for their connection to history and/or their usefulness within the field of aviation. This history has set a visual identity that defines the genre to this day, with complications like flyback timers and slide rules often featuring heavily. Of course, very few of the owners put these features to use, with fewer still serving as actual pilots. Thus, the pilot watch genre really serves as more of a vibe than any kind of practical watermark. There are exceptions to this, however, and ironically enough, some of the most practical everyday tool watches find themselves with the “pilot watch” designation, and there is perhaps no better example of this than the IWC Mark XX. The name of the game with any great tool watch is clarity. Ideally, there’s nothing superfluous to cloud the core goals of the tool, with a premium placed on simple legibility. One of the strongest templates based on this ethos is the IWC Mark XI from the late ‘40s. It wasn’t the first IWC Mk watch, but it is the one responsible for casting a die that persists to this day in the form of the Mk XX. There are important distinctions, which I’ll get to, but the underpinnings of the modern Mk XX collection are built on the same general formula that made the Mk XI great: it’s easy to use, easy to understand, easy to wear, and is exactly as stout as it needs to be. IWC enjoys a highly developed design language for its range of pi...

Nomos Watches Review Teddy Baldassarre
Glashütte Original into Apr 27, 2025

Nomos Watches Review

In its relatively young existence, Nomos Glashütte has become one of the most popular and successful German watch brands as well as probably the most accessible to newer (and younger) collectors. Nomos’s success - which includes an impressive string of German design awards - has resulted from a combination of sensible pricing, classical Bauhaus design, and creative forays into color, with a bit of mechanical innovation thrown in for good measure. Read on for an in-depth look at today's Nomos Glashütte collection, along with some background on the brand.  A Rebirth in Glashütte It was just two months after the Fall of the Berlin Wall, in January 1990, when Roland Schwertner, a photographer and tech-savvy entrepreneur from Düsseldorf, founded Nomos in the East German town of Glashütte, deriving its name from the Ancient Greek god of law. Before World War II and the subsequent Cold War that partitioned Germany into two nations, the town (above), outside of Dresden in the state of Saxony, was a world center of watchmaking. The foundation of Nomos - along with the revival of historical watch brands like A. Lange & Söhne and the evolution of the conglomerate known as Glashütte Original into a luxury watchmaker - spearheaded the rebirth of Glashütte’s horological heritage in the new, reunited Germany.  What set Nomos apart from most of the other manufacturers in Glashütte, then as now, is the company’s clean, modernist aesthetics as well as its relatively...

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 Fratello
Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Apr 25, 2025

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574

Panerai moves quickly! After a busy Watches and Wonders 2025, there’s already another new release. The Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica was announced with the brand’s official timekeeping role at the Salone del Mobile. This is Milan’s Design Week, and the event is the world’s largest furniture show. Furniture may sound like a funny connection […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik Edition Marine Fratello
Apr 25, 2025

Hands-On With The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik Edition Marine

It’s nice to review a truly affordable watch like the Sternglas Hamburg Automatik every so often. After all, entry-level mechanical timepieces are great for daily wear and can provide a start for new collectors. Sternglas does these watches well and adds thoughtful details, including attractive dials with uncommon lume colors. Today, we’ll look at the […] Visit Hands-On With The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik Edition Marine to read the full article.

A Sneak Peek at the Watches of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 Worn & Wound
Anordain anOrdain Apr 24, 2025

A Sneak Peek at the Watches of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025

The next stop in our ongoing celebration of 10 years of Windup, the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco, is now right around the corner and if you’re like us, you’ve only got one thing on your mind: what watches am I going to see? Whether you are planning to stop at specific brands on your tour of the Fort Mason venue, or your plan is to wander through the nearly 90 different watch and EDC brands, today we’re highlighting a selection of standout projects from our Lead Sponsors. As always, Windup is free and open to the public, thanks in large part to these brands who continue to support the enthusiast community. You can see all of these brands and more at the 2025 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco: Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco Friday, May 2: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, May 3: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, May 4: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public You can see every sponsor on the Windup Watch Fair website. While you’re on the site, be sure to sign up for Windup updates to make sure you continue to get the latest info in advance of and throughout the Windup weekend. Here’s that sneak peek at the watches of our 2025 Lead Sponsors in San Francisco! anOrdain anOrdain is proud to celebrate the crafts of watchmaking and fired arts by introducing the Model 2 Porcelain. The Model 2 offers a true porcelain dial that was developed in-house after years of research aided by master potters in Stoke-on-Trent, England. Each dial is lovingly handcrafted by p...

Is “Anything Goes” The Latest Trend In The Watch World? Fratello
Apr 21, 2025

Is “Anything Goes” The Latest Trend In The Watch World?

Wristwatches seem as culturally relevant as ever, even if the market is declining. Like any expression of personality, taste, and style, the wristwatch is under the influence of trends. For the longest time, it was pretty clear what the prevailing trend of the moment was. Today, however, I would like to argue that anything goes. […] Visit Is “Anything Goes” The Latest Trend In The Watch World? to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Sports Watches With Stone Dials - Featuring Turquoise, Lapis Lazuli, Meteorite, And More Fratello
Rolex Sports Watches Apr 18, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Sports Watches With Stone Dials - Featuring Turquoise, Lapis Lazuli, Meteorite, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we continue our series of lists inspired by Watches and Wonders 2025 and take a look at some of our favorite Rolex watches with stone dials. But as we wanted to make it a bit more specific, we decided to list five Rolex sports models with them. For […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Sports Watches With Stone Dials - Featuring Turquoise, Lapis Lazuli, Meteorite, And More to read the full article.

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Worn & Wound
Tudor Apr 17, 2025

[VIDEO] The Omega Speedmaster Thunderdome!

Today, we’re heading back to the Thunderdome! You’ve seen our previous Thunderdomes focusing on Tudor and the many incarnations of the Black Bay, but today we’re shifting gears and moving to a new watch, and an entirely brand for the Thunderdome concept: the Omega Speedmaster.  There are few watch collections better suited to be matched up against each other in an environment like this. The Speedmaster has been an icon for decades, and there are a truly headspinning number of references with a wide array of limited editions, case materials, dial variants, complications – there are a lot of Speedies out there. We’re sticking pretty close to the tried and true Moonwatch here though, with Ed Jelley, Garrett Jones, and Griffin Bartsch talking through three contemporary incarnations of the classic with slight variations between each. Hosted by Zach Weiss, this roundtable focuses on the Speedmaster’s enduring appeal, our personal connections to the watch, and where the collection might be heading.  So, who won Thunderdome? Let us know in the comments, and be sure to tell us about your favorite Speedmaster. The post [VIDEO] The Omega Speedmaster Thunderdome! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing: The Salmon-Dial Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase Fratello
Apr 17, 2025

Introducing: The Salmon-Dial Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase

Brellum releases many small runs of watches during any given year, so I was surprised to find that it’s been nearly six months since our last review. Now we’re back with a look at the new Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase LE Chronometer. Yes, that’s a mouthful, but the welcome news is that the watch now […] Visit Introducing: The Salmon-Dial Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase to read the full article.

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Worn & Wound
Marathon Apr 16, 2025

[VIDEO] Enthusiast Spotlight: Contemplations on Time with Van Neistat and the Marathon GSAR Diver’s Automatic

For our next Enthusiast Spotlight, we’re featuring Los Angeles-based filmmaker, Van Neistat. As the creator of The Spirited Man on YouTube, Van inspires others to live more intentionally-while surrounding himself with objects built to last and learning how to make them last even longer. Recently, we noticed him sporting a dive watch with a bold bezel that looked a lot like a Marathon dive watch. A quick check confirmed it-he’d discovered Marathon and become a fan. We caught up with him at his Calabasas studio, where he crafts video essays ranging from DIY guides to deep dives into self-betterment. And, in partnership with Marathon, we’ve sponsored a video exploring Van’s personal watch journey and philosophy that led him to his own Marathon 41mm GSAR Type II Diver’s Automatic. The post [VIDEO] Enthusiast Spotlight: Contemplations on Time with Van Neistat and the Marathon GSAR Diver’s Automatic appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Most Complicated Wristwatch, Ever Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Apr 15, 2025

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Most Complicated Wristwatch, Ever

If you were to sit me down at a desk and ask me to write down 41 watch complications off the top of my head, I think the result would be rather like Ross Geller trying to name the 50 states in that one episode of Friends. There’s just no way I could do it. Forty-one is an absurd number of complications to even conceive of, let alone cram into one surprisingly wearable watch. And yet, that is what Vacheron Constantin’s one-of-a-kind watchmaking department, Les Cabinotiers, has managed to do. Just about a year after introducing the world’s most complicated watch of any kind - a pocket watch containing 63 complications - Vacheron has unveiled the Les Cabinotiers ‘Solaria Ultra Grand Complication.’ It’s hard to know where to start with a watch like this, especially since I haven’t had the opportunity to see it in person, so to begin, I’ll just say this: I am wildly impressed by this watch, and you should be too. It’s a serious step up from their previous most complicated wristwatch - the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, which housed 23 complications. It’s worth saying here that, even before getting to the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, Vacheron Constantin had a very good Watches & Wonders. The brand is celebrating its 270th anniversary this year and they’ve done a hell of a job with it. Their new 127-piece limited edition Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, with its novel movement and ann...

Bell & Ross Celebrates the 20th Anniversary of the BR-03 with New Skeleton Models Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Celebrates Apr 15, 2025

Bell & Ross Celebrates the 20th Anniversary of the BR-03 with New Skeleton Models

It’s a common refrain here at Worn & Wound: every year is an anniversary. Like death, taxes, and Photoshop renders of what collectors predict the new Rolex will look like, the celebration of anniversaries in the watch industry is a certainty. We’re not complaining. An anniversary of an important watch or collection is a great time to take stock, and there have certainly been plenty of desirable releases over the years centered around big anniversaries. This year, Bell & Ross is celebrating 20 years of the BR-03 collection, their iconic square watch that has become the “face” of the brand over the past two decades.  The celebration begins with the new BR-03 Skeleton, a collection of three watches that capitalizes on a big trend across all sectors of watchmaking while removing the BR-03 from its aviation themed roots, at least a little bit. Bell & Ross has been making skeletonized watches for years (often as part of their Skull series), and these watches highlight their proficiency in that area, and also take advantage of their creativity with lume.  The new BR-03 Skeleton is available in three variants: Black Ceramic, Grey Steel, and Lum Ceramic. All three feature 41mm cases and a new movement, the BR-CAL.328, designed specifically for these watches. While the specs of the caliber are in line with previous time only movements used in recent BR-03 releases (like those, it has a 54 hour power reserve) its architecture has been adjusted, highlighting an “X” motif...