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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Citizen Shoots for New Heights of Luxury with Launch of "Citizen Premi Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Feb 28, 2025

Citizen Shoots for New Heights of Luxury with Launch of "Citizen Premi

Japan’s Citizen Watch Company, founded in 1918, is known today by most aficionados for its affordable and technically forward-thinking timepieces, and for good reason: the firm introduced the revolutionary Eco-Drive technology to watchmaking and has been building upon it ever since, with pioneering innovations like Satellite Wave GPS functionality. Now, as it enters the third decade of the 21st Century, Citizen has embarked on a mission to establish itself in another sector of the watchmaking world, as a purveyor of luxury timepieces that hold their own not only with Japanese competitors like Seiko and Grand Seiko but with Swiss and German contemporaries as well. To that end, the brand has launched Citizen Premier, a new category that it says will focus on “redefin[ing] luxury timepieces by fusing over 100 years of innovation, style, and craftsmanship.” Initially, Citizen Premier will be the umbrella category that links two of its existing product families: the all-titanium Attesa models and the recently inaugurated, all-mechanical Series 8. For the launch of Citizen Premier, Citizen is showcasing two of the first timepieces to fall under the new, luxury-focused banner: one, a limited edition from the Series 8 collection with a striking ice-blue textured dial; the other, the first Attesa model to combine a “Super Titanium” case with a ceramic bezel.  The Citizen Series 8 831 Mechanical Limited Edition is the latest piece to emerge from the Series 8 collection’...

Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Zenith Models Fratello
Zenith Models Another Friday another Feb 28, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Zenith Models

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll take a look at five great vintage Zenith watches. As I explained in last week’s list, that one and today’s are a little homage to Zenith. The brand from Le Locle is one of my favorite watchmakers. By releasing a seemingly never-ending stream of exciting and often surprising […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Zenith Models to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best (Neo-)Vintage Watches Under €5K - Daan’s Picks From Blancpain, Credor, And Cartier Fratello
Blancpain Credor Feb 27, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best (Neo-)Vintage Watches Under €5K - Daan’s Picks From Blancpain, Credor, And Cartier

On Monday, Thomas kicked off another series of Fratello Favorites. Our writers get another chance to share their favorite watches within a certain segment. This time, we are tackling vintage watches under €5K. Like Thomas, I’d also like to add another filter to those search terms. As I’m not very confident with or knowledgeable about […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best (Neo-)Vintage Watches Under €5K - Daan’s Picks From Blancpain, Credor, And Cartier to read the full article.

The Least Expensive Vacheron Constantin Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Feb 26, 2025

The Least Expensive Vacheron Constantin Watches

  Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest watch brands in the world, founded in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron and François Constantin, and also one of the very few firms tracing their origins back to the 18th Century that can boast an uninterrupted history of watchmaking - a history now well into its third century. Like other brands we’ve covered previously in our "Price of Admission" series, particularly Breguet, Vacheron Constantin is inarguably an elite-level watchmaker, with a level of pricing commensurate with its historical and technical renown. Finding the entry-level pieces in the Vacheron Constantin collection - and even defining what "entry-level" means for this brand - is a challenging proposition, but here is a rundown, family by family, of the most attainable timepieces from the Genevan manufacture that are available today. OVERSEAS The Overseas collection, launched in 1996 and given a high-profile revamp and relaunch in 2016, traces its origin to an unusual and now highly collectible watch released during Vacheron Constantin’s 220th anniversary in 1977. That watch, called the 222 and recently re-released as part of Vacheron’s Historiques collection, was short-lived in its original incarnation but established many of the codes now evident in the Overseas: a six-sided bezel inspired by the maison’s Maltese cross emblem; an integrated bracelet with a similar aesthetic, and an overall bold and sport-oriented character. In its contemporary version, ...

Hands On: Cartier Tank Américaine “Art Deco” SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Feb 24, 2025

Hands On: Cartier Tank Américaine “Art Deco”

Launched quietly last year as limited production runs of the standard model, the Tank Américaine “Art Deco” gives a striking new look to a familiar model that was first introduced in 1989. Though the Art Deco-style dial is mostly associated with the low-cost (and low-end) Tank Must de Cartier, it has been artfully applied to the Américaine with varying surface finishing and thoughtful details. The result is a Tank Américaine that looks radically different from the standard model, while being priced the same. Initial thoughts The Tank Américaine was conceived as a modern take on the Tank Cintrée, but because of its wider availability, numerous variants, and comparatively affordable pricing, the Américaine has become something of a poor cousin in the eyes of enthusiasts. The new variants of the Tank Américaine, however, are clearly trying to change that. They look and feel more upscale with the “Art Deco” dials that do away with the central seconds, which are long standard for automatic versions of the Tank Américaine. The yellow gold version Both are identical in dimensions. The case is a little wider and thicker than the Cintrée, so it’s not quite as elegant. And the 1899 MC movement inside is in-house but industrial and not as sophisticated as the manual-wind calibres (that are either Piaget or Jaeger-LeCoultre) in the Cintrée. But the Américaine “Art Deco” is more affordable, with the yellow gold version priced a little over US$16,000. The “Art...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Thomas’s Picks From Omega, Rolex, And Grand Seiko Fratello
Grand Seiko Welcome Feb 24, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Thomas’s Picks From Omega, Rolex, And Grand Seiko

Welcome to another series of Fratello Favorites! Our writers get another chance to share their favorite watches within a certain segment. This time, we are tackling vintage watches under €5K. I am the lucky first to outline what I think are the best vintage watches in the price range and why. Over the coming weeks, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Thomas’s Picks From Omega, Rolex, And Grand Seiko to read the full article.

Hands On With New Hublot Spirit Of Big Bang Collection WatchAdvice
Hublot Spirit Feb 22, 2025

Hands On With New Hublot Spirit Of Big Bang Collection

I take the new Spirit of Big Bang collection for a spin to see just how striking these fresh colourways look in person. From bold Sky Blue to versatile Beige and understated Dark Green, each model brings its own unique personality to the wrist! What We Love The three new colours offer different aesthetics to suit a wider audience Sky blue and beige colours are stunning in person New collection offers undeniable wrist-presence, especially with skeletonised dial and colour matching chronograph counters What We Don’t Doesn’t provide a perfect fit for smaller wrists Case back construction can be improved for better “snug” fit. Dark green model’s dial blends in the with skeletonised movement, which hinders readability of time and counters. Overall Score: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Hublot has started the year off with a bang…quite literally. The brand is celebrating arguably their most iconic collection’s 20th anniversary this year, so we knew it was always going to be quite spectacular. Early last month, Hublot unveiled a host of new timepieces, one of which was the new SAXEM green “sapphire” Big Bang, a true masterclass of a timepiece with a blend of different materials to create a unique and eye-catching timepiece. Another release that I personally loved was the new Spirit of Big Bang collection. For those that my not know, the Spirit of Big Bang collection from Hublot was introduced in 2014 as a b...

Titanium Versus Steel: Which Should You Get And Why? Fratello
Feb 22, 2025

Titanium Versus Steel: Which Should You Get And Why?

Stainless steel is, alongside plastics, the most common material used for watch cases today. Indeed, stainless steel is the benchmark material that most of us enthusiasts will commonly encounter. That said, titanium has been steadily gaining traction as a watchmaking material, so today, I thought we should look at titanium versus steel and go through […] Visit Titanium Versus Steel: Which Should You Get And Why? to read the full article.

Introducing: The Sinn 613 St And 613 St UTC Diving Chronographs Fratello
Sinn 613 St Feb 21, 2025

Introducing: The Sinn 613 St And 613 St UTC Diving Chronographs

In a world where dive watches increasingly serve as crossovers between daily timepieces and backups for dive computers, Sinn doubles down on hardcore tool divers. The press materials for the new Sinn 613 St and 613 St UTC read like a very serious proposition for a clientele wielding underwater welding equipment rather than a snorkel […] Visit Introducing: The Sinn 613 St And 613 St UTC Diving Chronographs to read the full article.

The Citizen Promaster Navihawk is Now Available in a New, Smaller Size Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Navihawk Feb 20, 2025

The Citizen Promaster Navihawk is Now Available in a New, Smaller Size

When it comes to “big” and “busy”, few do it better than the Citizen Promaster Navihawk. With a commanding presence packed with information, the aviation icon has always proven to be accessible in price, but not so much in size. That’s all changing, however, as Citizen unveils the 40mm Promaster Navihawk as part of their revamped Promaster Air collection.  Designed to favor legibility and functionality, the 40mm Navihawk will look familiar to those who know the larger model. It features a stainless steel case with satin finishing, polished accents, and a knurled crown, ringed by a rotating slide rule bezel. Inside the flat sapphire crystal, a complementary internal flange borders a metallic dial, available in three colors-khaki green, copper, and silver.  According to Citizen, the 40mm Navihawk features ⅕ second chronograph timing up to 60 minutes, and 12- and 24-hour time displays. Three black chronograph subdials take up the bottom half of the dial, and a rotated date indicator sits between the 4 and 5 indices. To balance out the date’s stilted location, printed details proclaiming the 200m water resistance and the Navihawk logo occupy the same location on the other side, between the 7 and 8 indices.  Inside, the 40mm Navihawk upholds the original model’s reputation of reliability and practicality. Citizen’s proprietary Caliber B620 Eco-Drive movement utilizes solar power to keep the watch running without use of a battery-very handy for those wit...

Introducing: REM Firenze Legends Straps Fratello
Panerai owner was changing straps Feb 19, 2025

Introducing: REM Firenze Legends Straps

One of the things I loved best about being a Panerai owner was changing straps regularly. By swapping their “shoes,” the look of the Panerai watches drastically changed. Unfortunately, REM Straps did not exist at the time. We got to know the folks at the company very well during our partnership on Speedmaster straps. Quality […] Visit Introducing: REM Firenze Legends Straps to read the full article.

Introducing: The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne Fratello
Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Feb 19, 2025

Introducing: The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne

If you like the odd thematic special edition, Hublot is the brand to follow. Today, we get an interesting new watch from the Nyon-based outfit. This is the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne. You quite literally get a piece of Lucerne if you purchase this watch, so if the Swiss city carries meaning to […] Visit Introducing: The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Discussing Vintage Chronographs - Part 2 Fratello
Feb 18, 2025

Fratello On Air: Discussing Vintage Chronographs - Part 2

Welcome back to Fratello On Air! This week, we tackle the second half of our discussion on vintage chronographs. We get into the weeds in this episode, so we hope you like it nerdy! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Last week, we kicked off this […] Visit Fratello On Air: Discussing Vintage Chronographs - Part 2 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Sternglas Tachymeter 2.0 Fratello
Feb 17, 2025

Hands-On With The New Sternglas Tachymeter 2.0

Sternglas continues to evolve its watch lineup rapidly. Today’s new Tachymeter 2.0 is a great example because it replaces the original model after a short three-year production run. We like it when a company is not content to rest with its existing designs. The question, as always, is whether the newest watch is an improvement. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Sternglas Tachymeter 2.0 to read the full article.

Industry News – Morgan Stanley’s Top 50 Watch Brands for 2024, Rolex Still by far the Leader, Overall Market Suffered Monochrome
Rolex Still Feb 17, 2025

Industry News – Morgan Stanley’s Top 50 Watch Brands for 2024, Rolex Still by far the Leader, Overall Market Suffered

Like every year and for now eight consecutive times, Swiss watch industry consultancy firm LuxeConsult and financial institution Morgan Stanley have worked together to bring their annual report of the Swiss watch industry, and the estimated revenues of the top 50 brands. While the 2023 report showed records for the market, it also indicated the […]

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Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Baltic Feb 16, 2025

A Week in Watches Ep. 99: Grand Seiko, Baltic, and More!

On Episode 99 of A Week in Watches, Zach takes us through a few new releases and ends on a brand-obit. First up are a few new models from Grand Seiko that, shocker, are inspired by nature. Next is a look at a new take on the Hermétique sport/field watch by Baltic with added functionality. After, it’s over to Germany to check out the new and very impressive watches by Jochen Benzinger. Finally, it’s time to bid farewell to Carl F. Bucherer. The DIY Watch Club sponsors this episode of A Week in Watches. Building a watch will elevate your appreciation for timepieces. Perfect bezel alignment? Blued steel hands? Mind-blowing lume? With DIY Watch Club, you get to experience the craftsmanship firsthand and gain a whole new level of appreciation for your watches. Learn more here The post A Week in Watches Ep. 99: Grand Seiko, Baltic, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Modern Brands That Should Offer Quartz - Rolex, Omega, Ming, And More Fratello
Omega Ming Feb 13, 2025

Modern Brands That Should Offer Quartz - Rolex, Omega, Ming, And More

Quartz movements were once seen as the ticking death knell of the mechanical watch industry. Many collectors scoff at these electronic pieces and will not consider them. However, there are pockets of enthusiasts who enjoy finely crafted quartz movements in equally well-made cases. Perhaps the largest knock on quartz is that its movements lack the […] Visit Modern Brands That Should Offer Quartz - Rolex, Omega, Ming, And More to read the full article.

Introducing: The Czapek Promenade With A White, Ivory, Or Pink Plissé Dial Fratello
Czapek Promenade Feb 11, 2025

Introducing: The Czapek Promenade With A White, Ivory, Or Pink Plissé Dial

Last year, Czapek introduced the new Promenade collection. Its design combines influences from the brand’s Quai des Bergues and Antarctique lines. Apart from the hollowed-out lugs and mid-case, the watches look quite classic. However, the peculiar dial designs are the real stars of the Promenade collection. The same goes for the newly introduced Promenade Plissé, […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Promenade With A White, Ivory, Or Pink Plissé Dial to read the full article.

Bring This Watch Back: Breitling Chronoliner Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Feb 11, 2025

Bring This Watch Back: Breitling Chronoliner

Breitling is known historically for two specialties: chronographs and pilot’s watches. Despite the very real popularity of its Superocean dive watches, the legendary status of  high-tech “smart” models like the analog-digital Emergency, and the renewed dress-watch cred attained by the elegant Premier collection, it is the models most closely associated with both flying and timing — the Chronomat and Navitimer — that continue to best embody Breitling’s DNA, at least to most savvy enthusiasts.  However, both the Chronomat and the Navitimer possess distinctive features that might be, for lack of a better descriptor, polarizing. The former has those angular rider tabs around the bezel and that big, bulbous crown; the latter sports that emblematic, circular slide-rule scale that dominates the dial, which looks cool yet busy and which few wearers actually know how to use. Both are luxurious, impeccably designed watches with sporty, tool-oriented origins rooted in aviation and navigation, but neither is really a gent’s dress chronograph in the traditional sense of the phrase. To be fair, Breitling does make a chronograph family that strives for both utility and elegance — that would be the previously mentioned Premier — but as it’s not aviation-minded in its aesthetic, it’s not “quintessential Breitling” for many folks. For a short while, however — from 2015 to around 2020 or so — Breitling made such a watch, even positioning it in the market as it...