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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

10 watches from Montblanc’s 2020 collection that suggest they are reaching the top of the mountain Time+Tide
Montblanc s 2020 collection Apr 25, 2020

10 watches from Montblanc’s 2020 collection that suggest they are reaching the top of the mountain

When Richemont acquired Minerva to pair with Montblanc to fast-track legitimacy for their watchmaking division, some scoffed at the audacity. Taking a respected, historical watchmaker and giving their patents to a pen brand seemed like horological heresy at the time; however, Montblanc’s commitment to continuing Minerva’s legacy only grows more apparent with each subsequent year … ContinuedThe post 10 watches from Montblanc’s 2020 collection that suggest they are reaching the top of the mountain appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Casio G-Shock NASA DW5600NASA20: A Fresh Take On Nostalgic Space Awesomeness Two Broke Watch Snobs
Casio G-Shock NASA DW5600NASA20 Apr 24, 2020

Casio G-Shock NASA DW5600NASA20: A Fresh Take On Nostalgic Space Awesomeness

The DW5600NASA20 is a new release from G-Shock that “pays homage to NASA” (National Aeronautics and Space Agency). Mostly pure white, the DW5600NASA20 is as clean as the Columbia Laboratory on the ISS. It features the old red NASA logo prominently above the display. There are some other interesting unique features as well...

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina Titanio DMLS PAM01117 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Apr 24, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina Titanio DMLS PAM01117

At a glance, Panerai’s latest Luminor unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2020 might look like, well, just another Luminor. But the Luminor Marina Titanio DMLS (PAM01117) is more than that. It incorporates a new type of luminous paint with an extra-bright glow, while boasting a titanium case produced via a process similar to 3D printing. And most crucially, the watch is covered by a 70-year warranty. Given that Panerai’s identity is inextricably linked with legible, glow-in-the-dark dials, the new “lume” found on the Luminor DMLS makes sense. The watch features Super-Luminova X – a lot of it. Beyond the usual dial and hands, the new Luminor also had luminous paint on the flange around the dial, crown locking bridge and lever, and the stitching of the fabric strap. The use of “lume” as a decorative element brings to mind the Lumen series of A. Lange & Söhne (which is a sister brand of Panerai within Swiss luxury group Richemont), but here the luminous paint is executed in clean lines for a geometric pattern. Though the Luminor DMLS is a large 44 mm in diameter, it is only 100 g, making it the lightest Panerai watch with a metal alloy case. The case is produced via direct metal laser sintering (DMLS), the same process to make the case of the Lo Scienzato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Titanio PAM00578 from 2016. DMLS is a form of 3D printing where a laser is used to melt titanium powder tiny amounts at a time, layer by layer as the case is built up. The nature of the p...

Up Close: Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon One Apr 22, 2020

Up Close: Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon

One of the more interesting complicated watches launched in 2019 was a surprising one, the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon. While “Chronometer Tourbillon” might seem to be a pair of impressive words meaninglessly strung together as is often done for high-end watches, the Chronometer Tourbillon actually takes them seriously. Though the new watch doesn’t look particularly interesting – the design is handsome but conventional – it combines a particularly logical set of complications that were conceived for exact setting of the time, namely a hacking tourbillon with zero-reset carriage (and not just the seconds hand), and a minute hand that is set in discrete, one-minute steps. In fact, the Chronometer Tourbillon derived from the already sensible, but less fancy, Senator Chronometer that has many of the same time-setting functions. Though the Chronometer Tourbillon is an expensive watch by the standards of Glashütte Original, it is eminently sensible and smart from a technical perspective. And to prove that chronometric competence, Glashütte Original also tests the Chronometer Tourbillon to the German chronometer standard, DIN 8319, laid out by the country’s all-encompassing federal standards body. Testing takes place at the Sternwarte Glashütte, the town’s astronomical observatory, which was given a new lease of life by German watch retailer Wempe, which also has its own line of chronometer wristwatches. The process, however, is conduc...

Pandemic Truths – Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie. SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Apr 17, 2020

Pandemic Truths – Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie.

A time of crisis is always a good moment to reflect – especially when confined to the home – so we spoke with key personalities in watchmaking to see what they’re doing. As the pandemic-inflected reality faced by major brands and independents are necessarily different, here are the views from one of the big “small” brands, H. Moser & Cie. Its young and straight-forward chief executive, Edouard Meylan, answers our questions, in part one of Pandemic Truths. Like almost everyone at the moment, Edouard is working from home, which is just a few minutes away from the H. Moser & Cie. factory in Schaffhausen. Edouard’s work-from-home desk. Photo – Edouard Meylan How does this crisis impacted your business, in productions, distribution, or people? Obviously, this crisis has a global impact as it creates uncertainty in both supply and demand. How can I produce watches when my suppliers are closed and I want to make sure my employees are safe? And even if I were able to produce, where do I sell when all my stores and distributors are closed? Today only four of my retailers are still open. But it is probably easier for us as we can easily ship directly to consumers. We have been very lucky to exhibit during the Dubai watch exhibitions [primarily LVMH Watch Week] early in January. We were able to introduce our novelties and get pre-orders. We are delivering them today, so business is almost as usual for the moment. We have launched our certified pre-owned platform last m...

Our 4 picks from the new IWC, Breitling, Bell & Ross and Montblanc 2020 releases Time+Tide
Bell & Ross Apr 16, 2020

Our 4 picks from the new IWC, Breitling, Bell & Ross and Montblanc 2020 releases

When it rains it drips. And in April 2020, at a time when we need it most – our kingdom for some new watches to write about! – it drips technicolour divers, classic chronos and two absolute blue beauties. Seriously. Like blue dialled watches? Prepare yourself. In a case of simply weird timing, just a … ContinuedThe post Our 4 picks from the new IWC, Breitling, Bell & Ross and Montblanc 2020 releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bid now on a Russian cosmonaut’s Omega Speedmaster, worn in space for 14 hours Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster worn Apr 15, 2020

Bid now on a Russian cosmonaut’s Omega Speedmaster, worn in space for 14 hours

Ever wanted to own an Omega Speedmaster that was actually worn in space? Is that the most rhetorical question you’ve ever heard? If so, a) get in line, and b) you’re in luck, because online auction house RR Auction are offering just that – an Omega Speedmaster that has slipped the bonds of terra firma … ContinuedThe post Bid now on a Russian cosmonaut’s Omega Speedmaster, worn in space for 14 hours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This curiously affordable gold Universal Genève owned by Elvis Presley is up for sale (again) Time+Tide
Universal Genève Apr 11, 2020

This curiously affordable gold Universal Genève owned by Elvis Presley is up for sale (again)

You may have heard the news that Tom Hanks and his wife Rita Wilson contracted coronavirus while filming the untitled Elvis Presley biopic in Australia; they are both reportedly recovering well, but Elvis fanatics will be champing at the bit for the production to ramp back up. It, like life as we know it, has … ContinuedThe post This curiously affordable gold Universal Genève owned by Elvis Presley is up for sale (again) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

G-Shock Introduces the Street Utility Collection SJX Watches
Casio describes them as clad Apr 9, 2020

G-Shock Introduces the Street Utility Collection

Though Casio describes them as clad in “the colours of streetwear”, the new G-Shock Street Utility collection feels very much like a military-inspired line-up, varying from olive green to desert camouflage. The collection includes both of G-Shock’s bestselling models, starting with the classic DW-5600 that has the same form as the first-ever G-Shock, the DW-5000 of 1983 (which was revived in solid 18k gold as the Dream Project). The G-Shock Street Utility DW-5610SU retains the signature oblong case and bezel, but is now constructed of two parts, instead of being one-piece as on the original. As a result, the Street Utility DW-5610 has a two-tone case the bezel in black resin while the case band is in another colour. It’s available in three styles, including a khaki version with a desert camouflage face as well as an additional fabric strap; the other two are sold only with the standard resin band. Street Utility DW-5610SU And the other variant of the collection is the G-Shock Street Utility GA-2100 series, based the popular Royal Oak-esque watch launched last year. The thinnest G-Shock to date, the GA-2100 has a case made of a carbon-fibre composite that’s now also offered in a two-colour finish. The olive green and yellow models have two-layer cases fitted with black bezels, but the black version is one piece, with the jungle camouflage motif printed on the bezel. Street Utility GA-2100 Key facts and price G-Shock Street Utility DW-5600 series Ref. DW-5610SU-...

H. Moser & Cie started a joke that started the whole world wanting, now it’s ready for your wrist, for real Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie started Apr 5, 2020

H. Moser & Cie started a joke that started the whole world wanting, now it’s ready for your wrist, for real

Anyone remember H. Moser & Cie.’s “April Fools” prank from last year? We just revisited it on our Instagram stories. If you missed it, allow me to explain. The @moserwatches Insta post from April 1, 2019, displayed what looked like a brand new model of the Swiss watchmaker’s popular Venturer range. But it was immediately … ContinuedThe post H. Moser & Cie started a joke that started the whole world wanting, now it’s ready for your wrist, for real appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Who wore it better: Batman or Batgirl? The cases for and against Gotham’s power couple Time+Tide
Rolex s steely professional model Apr 4, 2020

Who wore it better: Batman or Batgirl? The cases for and against Gotham’s power couple

Few acronyms in the watch world are as recognisable, or as likely to trigger emotions than the BLNR. Rolex’s steely professional model GMT-Master II Ref.116710BLNR and subsequent Ref.126710BLNR have been unendingly popular ever since the former was unveiled way back in 2013 at Baselworld. What might have seemed like a hype watch has well and truly … ContinuedThe post Who wore it better: Batman or Batgirl? The cases for and against Gotham’s power couple appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity SJX Watches
Mar 30, 2020

Hands-On: Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity

French watchmaker Cyril Brivet-Naudot made his debut two years ago with the Eccentricity, a time-only watch that’s fascinating and impressive on many fronts. Not only is it almost entirely made by hand, the Eccentricity is intriguing in design and mechanics – from the overall architecture to details like the key-winding mechanism and regulator-style time display with a twist, and above all, the proprietary escapement. Just 29 years old, Mr Brivet-Naudot began working on the Eccentricity after graduating from the École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL), one of Switzerland’s best technical universities. Prior to that, he earned a diploma in watchmaking from the Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, a small town in eastern France that borders Switzerland. The school has gained a reputation for producing imaginative watchmakers, many pursuing a similar style that’s inspired by 19th century pocket watch movements, including Theo Auffret, a peer of Mr Brivet-Naudot. The result of three years of development, the Eccentricity is very much in the same vein as the watches produced by Mr Brivet-Naudot’s fellow graduates. It artfully combines a 19th century aesthetic sensibility with exotic features, including a novel, free-eccentric escapement, for which the watch was named. And it is built by hand: with the exception of the mainspring, hairspring, jewels and crystals, every component of the watch was made from scratch by Mr Brivet-Naudot, without the aid of CNC machine...

Your questions about the 2020 Seiko and Grand Seiko collections are answered here Time+Tide
Grand Seiko collections are answered here Mar 26, 2020

Your questions about the 2020 Seiko and Grand Seiko collections are answered here

This week we were lucky enough to have a number of the latest releases from Seiko and Grand Seiko in the office, and we put the call out to Time+Tide readers to find out the questions they had about these new pieces. If you missed the Q&A; on Instagram stories (you can still find them … ContinuedThe post Your questions about the 2020 Seiko and Grand Seiko collections are answered here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: MB&F; HM10 Bulldog SJX Watches
MB&F; Mar 24, 2020

Up Close: MB&F; HM10 Bulldog

MB&F; has always been about pushing the boundaries of aesthetic and conceptual creativity in watchmaking, lassoing in everything from pop culture to science fiction to build its Horological Machines. Reminiscent of the HM3 Frog and HM9 Flow, the HM10 Bulldog is the tenth watch in the series and another intergalactic timekeeper reassembling a robotic animal. While MB&F; has historically been all about less-than-friendly animals, like a cyclops-chicken, luminous jellyfish, or giant spider, the HM10 is modelled on a domestic favourite (and perhaps also takes inspiration from the LM1). The design language of the HM10 is a familiar one as it borrows liberally from MB&F;’s past machines. Bulging eyes in the form of rotating displays take their cues from the HM3, while the suspended balance wheel under a high domed crystal is also found in the Legacy Machine series, and finally the mobile jaw that’s also a power reserve display brings to mind the vertical indicator on the LM1. An elaborate body It’s a complex-looking watch, so an explanation is in order. Available in either titanium, or red gold with titanium accents, the HM10 has a flat, elongated body with a protruding pair of collets for the crowns, as well as two domed sapphire crystals on the front and back to accommodate the time display and power reserve indicator respectively. At 54 mm by 45 mm, the HM10 does have a large presence – which is usually the point of a Horological Machine – but the overall shape, pa...

Drum Roll, Please: Drummers And Watches, Natural Timekeepers From Kiss, The Beatles, Deep Purple, And Even A. Lange & Söhne- Reprise Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Mar 22, 2020

Drum Roll, Please: Drummers And Watches, Natural Timekeepers From Kiss, The Beatles, Deep Purple, And Even A. Lange & Söhne- Reprise

Over the last few years, we have published an unusually high number of articles about drummers, the timekeepers in nearly every musical band or group. It kind of stands to reason that drummers would particularly like watches – even if they can’t (or shouldn’t!) wear them while playing – as both fields have extreme time-keeping functionality. Elizabeth Doerr highlights a few of these stories right here.

Tudor BB36 review WatchAdvice
Tudor BB36 review Since Tudor’s Mar 19, 2020

Tudor BB36 review

Since Tudor’s inception in 1926, the brand has served as a feeder market of sorts to its big brother Rolex. For decades, Tudor watches shared cases, bracelets and crowns with Rolex, leaving the brand feeling like the lesser amongst watch enthusiasts. However, Tudor has seen a resurgence in popularity since the introduction of the Black Bay range in 2012. In 2016, the world welcomed the Tudor Black Bay 36. Has Tudor finally cemented itself as a peer of its creator, or is there work still to be done? The Tudor Black Bay 36, as the naming convention suggests, features a 36mm wide case constructed of both satin brushed and polished stainless steel. The case bears remarkable resemblance to the oyster style cases used by Rolex, and it’s not a surprise to see Tudor go with something similar in the Black Bay 36. After all, if it aint broke, don’t fix it right? The watch is comfortable and familiar on the wrist, so don’t let the 36mm sizing throw you off. Whilst it seems a little on the smaller side for a modern men’s offering, the Black Bay 36 feels like a modern watch on the wrist. It carries itself remarkably well, thanks to the incredible build quality and contrast between the finishes on the case and the character exuding from the dial. There is a high polish executed on the non-rotating bezel that catches the light and your eye at every opportunity. The bezel acts as a perfect frame for the deep, glossy black dial and stark white indices. The dial on the Tudor Black...

In the Eye of the Storm – A Letter From Geneva SJX Watches
Rolex which just closed all Mar 17, 2020

In the Eye of the Storm – A Letter From Geneva

Switzerland has declared a state of emergency as a result of the COVID-19 coronavirus. Almost everything is closed, including schools, shops, and restaurants, with only businesses offering the basic necessities, like banks and supermarkets, being allowed to open. There is bad news from Switzerland’s neighbours as well; the virus has spread fast in Italy. A recent poll showed that only 8% of the Swiss population feel they are in great danger. I can assure you that 100% of watch brands are feeling the pressure. Many watch factories, particularly the privately-held brands, have shut down completely or are about to. That includes Rolex, which just closed all its facilities for two weeks starting March 17. Watch sales are falling all around the world, with some brands suffering drops of 30-40% in February, and duty-free sales – which are substantial for the watch industry – falling by up to 90% in major airports. We have seen many crises, but this is unprecedented. But the biggest blow to the industry so far – the cancellation of the major watch fairs, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) and Baselworld. Even though very little is actually sold at the fairs, they were universal events that brought everyone together, almost like an annual reunion of old friends (and competitors). The fairs were a major, major part of the larger imagination, so the cancellations feel like a massive blow for everyone in the industry. The accelerating fallout First, the timeline of the virus’ i...

Montblanc Introduces the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Tobacco Dial SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces Mar 13, 2020

Montblanc Introduces the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Tobacco Dial

Montblanc’s recent line of vintage-inspired models, including last year’s perpetual calendar, now includes the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph, an attractively retro mono-pusher chronograph that’s well-priced – considering the Minerva movement within. First launched in steel with a salmon dial, the chronograph gets a richer colour palette this year with a pink-gold case matched with a tobacco dial for a warm look no doubt inspired by aged watch dials that have faded from black to brown. Despite all the vintage detailing and “tropical” colours, the watch still doesn’t feel overly retro. The case is well suited to the vintage styling, measuring 40 mm wide thanks to the compact MB M13.21 movement. The calibre is nearly 10 mm smaller than the MB M16.29 movement built for pocket watches that Montblanc has relied on more frequently and results in much larger watches. The case is entirely polished, which contrasts against the matte dial executed in several finishes: a dark, matte surface on the periphery, followed by the grained chapter ring with applied pink gold markers, and finally the central portion in a sun ray-brushed finish. In keeping with the vintage look, the dial itself is slightly domed, a subtle detail that is evident in the sloping edges of the recessed counters. The retro style is further enhanced by a domed, “box-type” sapphire crystal. The arrowhead movement But as is always the case with Minerva-powered Montblanc watches, the highlight is ...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We’ve run out of apocalypse gags … Time+Tide
Mar 12, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We’ve run out of apocalypse gags …

At times like this, when everything you looked forward to has been cancelled, when Uber Eats, Netflix and self-isolation are likely to become the new normal, and when there’s an accelerating sense of backsliding into a pandemic abyss, all I can really suggest we do is hold on to what we love. And we love … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We’ve run out of apocalypse gags … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019? Time+Tide
Seiko Mar 7, 2020

Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019?

Editor’s note: Seiko dropped what seemed like an innumerable amount of limited edition timepieces in 2019, and that got us thinking – which one was best? That’s a much tougher question than it sounds, but this SLA033 dive watch surely has to be in the running. A revival of the prolific 6105, a watch made … ContinuedThe post Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.