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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Event Report: Celebrating Breitling’s 140th Anniversary At The Brand’s Boutique In The Hague Fratello
Breitling s 140th Anniversary Dec 6, 2024

Event Report: Celebrating Breitling’s 140th Anniversary At The Brand’s Boutique In The Hague

Last week, we organized an evening with Breitling at the brand’s impressive boutique in our hometown of The Hague, Netherlands. We invited a fairly large group of Fratelli to look at the current Breitling collection. But Fred Mandelbaum, our special guest, was also there, and he brought part of his extensive vintage Breitling collection. So […] Visit Event Report: Celebrating Breitling’s 140th Anniversary At The Brand’s Boutique In The Hague to read the full article.

Hot Take: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph × Oracle Red Bull Racing Fratello
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph × Dec 5, 2024

Hot Take: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph × Oracle Red Bull Racing

TAG Heuer has partnered with Oracle Red Bull racing since 2017, and there have been seven watches commemorating their alliance. Now, to celebrate the team’s 20th anniversary, a new Formula 1 Chronograph joins the collection. As expected, this watch blends the team colors and a highly technical look to create a sporty timepiece. The Oracle […] Visit Hot Take: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph × Oracle Red Bull Racing to read the full article.

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC275 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC275 Dec 4, 2024

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC275

Twenty-twenty four marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s 9R Spring Drive movement platform, an occasion the brand has chosen to mark with a range of anniversary editions including the Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary SBGC275. A large, richly detailed watch with a captivating dial, the SBGC275 is robust, interesting, and capable of nearly anything, short of fitting under a short cuff. Initial thoughts At first glance, the SBGC275 looks like just a Spring Drive chronograph with a red dial. But a closer look reveals a highly nuanced colour that changes from red to orange depending on the angle – the result of a proprietary dial coating technique. At 44.5 mm in diameter and nearly 17 mm thick, the SBGC275 is unapologetically big and bold. That said, the watch feels smaller than it is thanks to the use of titanium for the case and bracelet, and the unusually wide 23 mm lug width helps reduce the visual size. This latter dimension may limit the options for aftermarket straps, but since most owners will likely stick with the bracelet, this concern is largely academic. The watch is powered by an upgraded version of the familiar cal. 9R86 Spring Drive chronograph GMT movement, which made its debut in 2007. But eagle-eyed movement geeks will notice the SBGC275 is equipped with the fine-tuned cal. 9R96 first seen in 2017, which was also used in the Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary edition. In many ways, the SBGC275 captures Grand Seiko’s strengths and weaknesses. The b...

Hands On: Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861 SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster “First Omega Dec 4, 2024

Hands On: Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861

Omega revived the CK 2998-inspired Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” earlier in the year. More than just another remake, I am convinced the FOiS may just be the perfect Speedmaster, at least for me. The second-generation “First Omega in Space” (FOiS) sports details that will appeal to enthusiasts, including a blue-grey “soleil” dial and domed sapphire crystal that completes the vintage-inspired look. And it’s powered by the latest generation Moonwatch cal. 3861. Initial thoughts Despite being interested in watches since my sophomore year in high school, I can’t say that the Speedmaster was ever a go-to watch for me. I have had a couple of Speedies here and there, but the model was never the centre of my attention as a collector. I mostly felt the modern Speedmaster, in its many forms, is good, especially for the price point, but never perfect. Based on that experience, I didn’t expect much of the FOiS, thinking it be yet another reissue, which is why I hesitated when I got the call from the Omega boutique in Seoul. My opinion changed when I went to the boutique to try it on. I was surprised to see how appealing it looked on the wrist, especially compared to the first-generation FOiS that was too plain with a black dial that seemed flat. Others seem to share my opinion. The critical response to the new FOiS has been mostly positive, other than the familiar debate over the faux-aged lume, which some find excessive but I personally don’t mind. In fact, I ...

Casio Just Re-Released The Very First G-Shock Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Dec 3, 2024

Casio Just Re-Released The Very First G-Shock

Casio's G-Shock brand is celebrating a big birthday this year. And much like many industries, it is taking its 40th anniversary as a chance to look to the past, to get nostalgic, to wax digital. The thing is, while a brand like TAG Heuer can make a statement with the launch of the KITH F1 watches in near ‘80-faithful form, or even one like Timex can reissue the IronMan in a 1:1 configuration (JDM only; sorry, USA), Casio is in a bit of tough spot…for a good reason. I think of the G-Shock like the affordable, digital version of the Omega Speedmaster "Moonwatch," a watch whose design has been altered but, in many ways, has effectively been in uninterrupted production since the 1960s – and we love it for that reason. Similarly, through models like the modern DW-5600, Casio has been producing some manner of the original G-Shock since, um, the birth of G-Shock four decades ago. And again, we love that. I mean, people really love that. I even own a DW-5600 and I’m not what you might call a G-Shock guy, or a G-shocker, or whatever it is you call it (to be honest, people probably don’t call it anything). This has been a deeply circuitous route to saying that the brand has released a throwback G-Shock to celebrate its own birthday which is essentially a reissue of the very first G-Shock. And all of my preamble is to illustrate that, at first blush, you probably don’t notice anything massive here. But like any release worthy of watch nerdery, the devil is in the resin...

Introducing: The New Tissot PR516 Powermatic 80 In Four Fun Variations Fratello
Tissot PR516 Powermatic 80 Nov 29, 2024

Introducing: The New Tissot PR516 Powermatic 80 In Four Fun Variations

At the beginning of 2024, Tissot introduced four watches under the name PR516. They were all chronographs, three of which had quartz movements while the last one housed a hand-wound mechanical caliber. Just like the new time-and-date models we’re looking at today, they were inspired by Tissot watches from the ’60s. However, these new Powermatic […] Visit Introducing: The New Tissot PR516 Powermatic 80 In Four Fun Variations to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Cockpit-Clock-Inspired Sinn 717 Fratello
Sinn 717 Nov 28, 2024

Hands-On With The Cockpit-Clock-Inspired Sinn 717

The Sinn 717 debuted in 2021 and has won at least two major German design awards. It’s a large and legible chronograph with looks inspired by the NaBo 17 cockpit clocks from the legendary Tornado jet fighter. We’ll look at the 717 again and shed light on an interesting NaBo 17-related story that surfaced. My […] Visit Hands-On With The Cockpit-Clock-Inspired Sinn 717 to read the full article.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Review Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Nov 28, 2024

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Review

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe used to be seen as something like a younger sibling to the classic Fifty Fathoms but after more than a decade in production (of the current iteration, at least) I would now classify it as the more modern sibling. The clean lines and sleek angles work particularly well in what is typically the bulkier category of diver chronographs, let alone flyback chronographs. But, the Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback Chronograph seen here, done in a ceramic case and green colorway, manages to exceed expectations and defy any baggage or preconceptions the category may bring with it. One thing you won’t get from the images alone is just how lightweight the watch is, due to its black ceramic case. Ceramic is one of my favorite materials for a watch case (in addition to titanium) not just because of the weight but also the scratch resistance that comes with it. It also looks great, especially contrasted against that wonderfully vibrant green used on the dial and bezel here. Divers' chronographs are a particular challenge because, well, operating a chronograph underwater presents some serious water-resistance issues. That said, Blancpain is confident in its assertion that the chronograph can safely be activated underwater. And for those not familiar, a flyback is significantly more complex than a typical chronograph because it does not have to be stopped before resetting. While we’re on the topic, the F385 caliber deserves some love because it ...

Introducing The All-New Ressence Type 9 In Warm Gray And Fresh Aqua Fratello
Ressence Type 9 Nov 28, 2024

Introducing The All-New Ressence Type 9 In Warm Gray And Fresh Aqua

The all-new Ressence Type 9 is a sleek creation in either warm gray or a fresh shade of aqua blue. Its pebble-like titanium case measures 39mm wide, making it the smallest Ressence timepiece ever. The watch is a slimmed-down and refined version of the Type 8 and shows only the hours and minutes. It’s not […] Visit Introducing The All-New Ressence Type 9 In Warm Gray And Fresh Aqua to read the full article.

Czapek Unleashes a Purple Storm Worn & Wound
Czapek Unleashes Nov 27, 2024

Czapek Unleashes a Purple Storm

I feel like every time I look at Czapek, they’re doing something great. This time, they’ve released a new limited variant of the Antarctique, the Antarctique Purple Storm, with an otherworldly purple dial produced by Swiss dial maker Metalem. The Antarctique has been one of the great success stories of the indie watch world in recent years, and Czapek has managed to iterate on the watch beautifully, offering up a consistent stream of new and interesting executions on the model without losing any of what makes it so compelling. This latest release pairs a familiar steel execution of the independent brand’s signature integrated bracelet sports watch, with a new version of the hand-varnished dial first seen in the 10-piece limited edition Antarctique Orion Nebula. While that watch was meant to evoke very specifically the look of galactic bodies in astral photography, almost looking like it could have come straight from the Webb telescope, more recent implementations of the technique have had a more lava-lamp-like quality; ethereal and non-corporeal. The Purple Storm fits into the latter group presenting onlookers with colors ranging from dark blacks to vibrant purples and every shade in between. Each of the 18 dials in this series is completely unique, and the celestial-inspired dials are entirely sterile - though the Czapek logo is present, it looks to be printed on the underside of the sapphire crystal (an increasingly common, but nonetheless appealing technique). ...

Hands-On: the Circula Facet Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer amongst others Nov 27, 2024

Hands-On: the Circula Facet

The eagle-eyed watch enthusiast may have noticed a theme shift on the Circula website very recently. A new layout, new graphics, even a new logo. No, this is not some quarterly refresh, but rather a sign of things to come. Enter the Facet. A new flagship model from the brand positioned as an elevated everyday or dress watch following in the integrated bracelet sport watch wave that has swept throughout the industry. Now, the Facet may not technically have an integrated bracelet (it’s available on a strap as well), though it certainly leans into a similar look and feel. While this might be an introductory piece for a portion of this audience, Circula is a brand that has been on my radar for a while now with the Protrail Field watch making its way into my collection. I can honestly say too that I was a fan of the former direction of the brand, aiming to provide good value in the roughly $1,000 sports watch segment of the market. So, does this departure from the previous trend towards another signal my exit from the bandwagon or blow a signal for full steam ahead? Let’s face it, the landscape of the watch industry has changed creating a more crowded and competitive market than we have ever seen before. In an effort to stand out, Cornelius Huber, the current caretaker of Circula and 3rd generation at the helm, has partnered with designer Guy Bove, previously of TAG Heuer amongst others, in designing the Facet to stand out in the pack. Utilizing new finishing techniques, a ...

Delugs Expands Its Line Of CTS Rubber Straps With Four New Patterns - Pilot, Mosaic, Waffle, And Tropic Fratello
Nov 26, 2024

Delugs Expands Its Line Of CTS Rubber Straps With Four New Patterns - Pilot, Mosaic, Waffle, And Tropic

I like a headline that gets straight to the point, and I think I nailed it with this one - no clickbait in sight. As is made exceedingly apparent, Delugs recently introduced four new patterns to its straight-end CTS (Cut-To-Size) rubber straps - Pilot, Mosaic, Waffle, and Tropic. Ken sent me one of each of […] Visit Delugs Expands Its Line Of CTS Rubber Straps With Four New Patterns - Pilot, Mosaic, Waffle, And Tropic to read the full article.

The November 2024 Geneva Auctions Retrospective - Highlights Fratello
Nov 26, 2024

The November 2024 Geneva Auctions Retrospective - Highlights

Recent auctions in Geneva concluded with a relative bang. Eye-watering results occurred for some truly rare pieces. For many watches, though, the sales were solid but not awe-inspiring. I’ll kick off today’s article with my thoughts on the market, and then we’ll look at several lots. My colleague Lex recently penned an article about the […] Visit The November 2024 Geneva Auctions Retrospective - Highlights to read the full article.

Introducing: A New Blue Outfit For The Awe-Inspiring Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 Fratello
Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 Nov 26, 2024

Introducing: A New Blue Outfit For The Awe-Inspiring Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077

Breguet introduced the Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 back in 2015. The watch displayed awe-inspiring watchmaking inventiveness. How about two balance wheels, two gear trains, an arc-shaped minute totalizer, a power reserve indicator, and a mesmerizing open-worked look on both the front and back? What more could you ask for? Well, if I put on my […] Visit Introducing: A New Blue Outfit For The Awe-Inspiring Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 to read the full article.

Auction: Japanese Watches in Demand at Phillips’ Toki Sale SJX Watches
Seiko Nov 25, 2024

Auction: Japanese Watches in Demand at Phillips’ Toki Sale

A thematic sale of watches related to Japan, Toki just concluded at Phillips in Hong Kong over the weekend, notching up HK$61.8 million with fees, equivalent to US$7.95 million. Comprised of watches sold in Japan or made for the country, the catalogue included familiar names like Seiko and Casio, but also independent watchmakers like Masahiro Kikuno, along with a host of limited editions by Swiss brands for the Japanese market. A novel concept given the dominance of Swiss brands in watch auctions, both in terms of value and volume, Toki surprised on the upside. The 115-lot auction included lots of surprising and notable results, like HK$1.14 million (about US$147,000) for the Casio G-Shock Dream Project, double the original retail price. Thomas Perazzi at the rostrum. Image – Phillips Toki and the subsequent main sale showed the momentum established during the Geneva auctions two weeks ago carried on into Hong Kong. The strength of the sale is also credit to the Phillips watch department in Asia led by Thomas Perazzi, which conceived Toki a year ago with the help of Tokyo-based consultants for Phillips, Kaz Fujimoto and Genki Sakamoto. The unusual theme was realised well with a carefully curated catalogue. Many of the watches in Toki were simply unavailable anywhere else. With only 35 made and all sold via a lottery in 2020, where else can one find a solid-gold G-Shock? This reflected in the diverse nature of the bidders. Most bids in the sale came from phone bidders an...

Worldwide Watch Sales Are In A Slump: Are We Suffering From A Bad Case Of Luxury Fatigue? Fratello
Nov 25, 2024

Worldwide Watch Sales Are In A Slump: Are We Suffering From A Bad Case Of Luxury Fatigue?

There’s no escaping luxury. Luxury is everywhere you look. Luxury is the norm. So why is the luxury market as a whole in a slump? Is it the economic situation worldwide? Luxury brands have used the slowdown in China to explain why sales are down, and the results are disappointing. But there might be more […] Visit Worldwide Watch Sales Are In A Slump: Are We Suffering From A Bad Case Of Luxury Fatigue? to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic Fratello
Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic Today Nov 24, 2024

Hands-On With The Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic

Today, we’ll go hands-on with the new Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic. This is a modern-looking take on the brand’s entry into the sports-dress category. As we’ll see, the lack of an integrated bracelet and textured dial helps provide this watch with an identity of its own. The current Piaget Polo lineup features many models, including […] Visit Hands-On With The Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic to read the full article.

Omega’s Mystery Seamaster Diver 300M is Finally Revealed Worn & Wound
Omega s Mystery Seamaster Diver Nov 21, 2024

Omega’s Mystery Seamaster Diver 300M is Finally Revealed

Remember the Paris Olympics? It seems, somehow, like they took place a lifetime ago, but it was just this past summer – mere months ago. It was a crazy time. Lots of conversation about the pollution in the Seine, an all time great gymnastics competition, and, of course, Daniel Craig teased a new Seamaster in a conspicuously inconspicuous way. If you’re a Seamaster fan who has been waiting with baited breath for the full details of that mystery watch to be announced, it appears that Omega is making all of your wishes come true this week, with the announcement of not, but two new Seamaster references that seem aimed directly at the enthusiast market (and James Bond fans).  The new versions of the Seamaster Diver 300M are actually a significant departure from the current generation of the watch, which history will likely remember as being absolutely loaded with one of the key watchmaking materials of this generation: ceramic. The standard issue Seamaster we’ve become familiar with over these last few years has not only a ceramic bezel, but a polished and laser engraved ceramic dial. While many collectors and enthusiasts obviously find a certain appeal in the brightly colored and/or meticulously polished ceramic, these watches always had a lot of it, and dive watch fans looking for a daily wearer with more classic tool watch vibes were likely left wanting with the current Seamaster.  These updated references remove ceramic from the equation entirely. There are two new ...

Introducing: The Space-Inspired Czapek Antarctique Purple Storm Limited Edition Fratello
Czapek Antarctique Purple Storm Limited Nov 20, 2024

Introducing: The Space-Inspired Czapek Antarctique Purple Storm Limited Edition

The shape of the case and bracelet on Czapek’s Antarctique has remained unchanged since its introduction in 2020. There are versions in stainless steel, gold, and titanium, for example, but they all share the same attractive and popular integrated construction. The Antarctique’s dial, on the other hand, seems more like a blank canvas that gets […] Visit Introducing: The Space-Inspired Czapek Antarctique Purple Storm Limited Edition to read the full article.

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue Nov 20, 2024

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue

Ulysse Nardin has been breathing new life into its flagship Freak collection for the past several years, and the latest model to benefit from this focus is the Freak One Navy Blue, featuring a blue dial that pays homage to the original Freak from 2001. And that’s fitting, because the Freak One collection is a retelling of the story, imagining what the Freak would look like if it were to debut in the present day. Initial thoughts I’ve always had a great deal of respect for the Freak, though I admit I have not always been attracted to the aesthetic. That started to change for me when the design language started evolving to its current, more futuristic form. The Freak Vision of 2018 was the first step in this direction, but the model that really convinced me was the Freak S Nomad launched earlier this year. What makes these watches so satisfying is the way the mechanics have been reimagined to become the central design element; the time is revealed as the movement walks its way around the dial. In many ways, the One can be seen as the little brother to the Freak S. At 44 mm, the One is a fraction smaller than its more complicated sibling, but shares much of the same construction and materials. The case is titanium and finished with a black DLC coating, while the bezel is made of recycled carbon fibre composite. Like the Freak S, the One wears smaller than its dimensions suggest, thanks in part to its muted colours and the way the central carrousel draws the eye. The mater...

Introducing – The New Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition for Collective Horology Monochrome
Armin Strom Czapek Nov 19, 2024

Introducing – The New Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition for Collective Horology

Since its inception in 2018, Collective Horology, a “proudly headquartered in Ventura, California” club for watch enthusiasts, has become quite famous through the Collective Series, which involves collaborations and limited editions with watch brands like IWC, H. Moser & Cie., Armin Strom, Czapek and Oris, to name a few and the Portfolio Series, which commissions […]

Christopher Ward Adds a 37mm C1 Moonphase Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Adds Nov 18, 2024

Christopher Ward Adds a 37mm C1 Moonphase

It’s getting close to the end of the year, and many of us are naturally in a reflective mood. I’d like to think I speak for most watch writers when I say that for us, it’s all about looking back at the almost incalculable number of watches we saw over the course of the year, and the reviews they spawned. Considering all the watches I got to look at this year, there are a handful that really stand out, and the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase is easily one of them. We talk about Christopher Ward a lot around here because they continue to surprise us, expanding the very definition of what a “Christopher Ward” can be, and the C1 Moonphase is one of my favorite examples of that. It’s truly an art piece – made of slabs of aventurine with no markers to speak of and accented with giant, glowing moons in constant rotation. In a quiet way, it’s every bit as adventurous as the Bel Canto or Twelve X. If there was one issue with it, though, it was the size. At just over 40mm, it was perhaps a little big for some who expect a watch like this to be more discreet.  If that describes you, you’re in luck, as Christopher Ward has just announced a new version of the C1 Moonphase in a more versatile 37mm size. If you envision a watch like this as an accent to a suit (maybe even a tuxedo) or you simply have smaller wrists or prefer a more traditional dress watch size, this new version should have a ton of appeal.  Personally, I stand by my original review, where I wrote that a...