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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Introducing: The MB&F; × Eddy Jaquet LM Split Escapement 2024 Series - Artisanal And Adventurous Watches Inspired By Youth Literature Fratello
MB&F; Oct 25, 2024

Introducing: The MB&F; × Eddy Jaquet LM Split Escapement 2024 Series - Artisanal And Adventurous Watches Inspired By Youth Literature

Take a look at your bookcase, and tell me if you have a copy of one of the following books - The Three Musketeers, The Jungle Book, Robinson Crusoe, The Call of the Wild, The Last of the Mohicans, Moby-Dick, Robin Hood, Treasure Island, or anything by Jules Verne, like Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. […] Visit Introducing: The MB&F; × Eddy Jaquet LM Split Escapement 2024 Series - Artisanal And Adventurous Watches Inspired By Youth Literature to read the full article.

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Worn & Wound
Alpina s Seastrong Extreme Iceland Oct 24, 2024

Tool/Kit: Staying Strong in Iceland with Nick Stirbis and Alpina’s Seastrong Extreme

Iceland is known worldwide for its extreme environments, temperamental weather, and otherworldly scenery. I’ve been lucky enough to experience the Arctic island on two occasions this year, this time accompanied by the Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic and Extreme Automatic GMT. As an outdoor adventure-focused photographer, I needed a watch that was bombproof and capable of taking on the elements, from gale-force winds and sideways rain to jagged rocks and freezing temperatures (all of which we experienced on this mission). These rugged watches were particularly well suited for the job. The post Tool/Kit: Staying Strong in Iceland with Nick Stirbis and Alpina’s Seastrong Extreme appeared first on Worn & Wound.

30 Years of the Lange 1 with Onyx or Blue SJX Watches
Casio n Oct 24, 2024

30 Years of the Lange 1 with Onyx or Blue

It seems like just yesterday that A. Lange & Söhne celebrated its 25th anniversary with the 10-piece Lange 1 set. But turning 30 is always a big deal, and the brand has risen to the occasion with limited editions of its flagship Lange 1 and its smaller sibling, the Little Lange 1, including a version with the brand’s first-ever mineral stone dial on a watch without gemstones. Both the Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 30th Anniversary are available in pink gold with a navy blue dial, or in platinum with a black dial – both versions evoking uncommon historical versions of the model. Lange typically reserves the latter configuration for its special editions, and in this case the degree of specialness is dialled up a notch with a dial crafted from black onyx. Initial thoughts It’s no secret that I have a soft spot for Lange. Nevertheless, I’ve never warmed up to their black-dialled watches, including the Datograph, which I feel look a bit flat. Judging by the press images, the black onyx dial of the Lange 1 30th anniversary is a different animal; deep and glossy. The pink gold and navy blue references are also attractive, but it’s the platinum and black models that immediately captured my attention and have continued to occupy my thoughts. In most ways, the 30th anniversary editions of the Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 are no different from the standard models. The cases measure 38.5 mm and 36.8 mm, respectively, and are about 10 mm thick. Naturally, the platinum models are ...

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date With A Modern Blue-Gray Dial Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date Oct 23, 2024

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date With A Modern Blue-Gray Dial

If you ask someone to draw or describe the perfect dress watch, I’m sure it would look a lot like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin. Its classic case with elegantly sweeping lugs looks good on anyone’s wrist, and the dial is one of the cleanest and most legible in the industry. In short, it’s truly […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date With A Modern Blue-Gray Dial to read the full article.

Grail Watches: The Holy Trinity – Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin – And What is a ‘Grail Watch’ Anyway? Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Oct 19, 2024

Grail Watches: The Holy Trinity – Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin – And What is a ‘Grail Watch’ Anyway?

“The Holy Trinity,” as any watch nerd knows, refers to the triumvirate of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Colin Smith takes a look at what we mean – or think we mean - when we describe PP, AP, and VC as the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking and when we describe a timepiece as our “grail watch.”

Oris Debuts the New Divers Date Worn & Wound
Oris Debuts Oct 18, 2024

Oris Debuts the New Divers Date

Oris is reaching a huge milestone, and that’s the 60th anniversary of their renowned Divers Sixty-Five, a watch collection that’s always been imbued in 1960’s nostalgia. Today they’re updating the Divers Date, a collection that on first glance may look quite familiar to you, but upon closer inspection reveals an entirely new concept.  Apart from the obvious changes such as the new dial options, which have now moved from the previous more outgoing array, to what can now be perceived as a more subdued industrial chic black, blue, and beige – the watch has gone through a substantial technical upgrade in both its aesthetic and its functionality. Oris has always catered to a loyal base of watch enthusiasts, ensuring they only produce high value mechanical watches with meaningful heritage behind them. The new Divers Date really follows along this line of thinking, but augments the owners experience with this new release. Some of the notable aesthetic changes include a slight thickening and increased weight to the case, to create a touch more presence and more compact feeling on the wrist, as explained by their designer Lukas Bühlmann. The side profile of the case has also been reshaped, giving it a more mature and substantial style. The most impressive material upgrade has to be the new ceramic bezel insert, which was previously aluminum. This was a much-anticipated upgrade for the collection, seeing that most other watch brands have moved to ceramic in the past few...

Fratello’s Top 5 Patek Philippe Nautilus References Fratello
Patek Philippe Nautilus References Another Friday Oct 18, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Patek Philippe Nautilus References

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll take a look at the famous Patek Philippe Nautilus. It’s a great reminder of what makes Gérald Genta’s creation stand out. The watch was first introduced in 1976 and has become one of the industry’s leading silhouettes over time. But we all know that the brand discontinued the […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Patek Philippe Nautilus References to read the full article.

Meet The New Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker Fratello
Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker Citizen’s Oct 17, 2024

Meet The New Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker

Citizen’s Promaster line has brought us professional toolwatches for 35 years. Today, I’ll look at one of the last additions, the Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker. It’s available in three colorways and was designed for pilots. However, I discovered this watch is equally suitable for general watch lovers like you and me. Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker […] Visit Meet The New Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Atelier Wen Perception Mù Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Oct 17, 2024

Hands-On: the Atelier Wen Perception Mù

If there’s a single area of the watch world that feels truly exciting and vibrant right now, it’s the small, approachable, independent brands. I like to call them “micro-indies,” because they take elements of what made the microbrand boom so fruitful to many (direct to consumer sales, lots of creativity) and match it up with real watchmaking craft in ways you might not expect. When I got into this hobby years ago, it was common to hear various voices on the watch forums telling you that finding “real” guilloche under five figures is straight up impossible. But new brands, and new ideas, allow for all kinds of new possibilities. Atelier Wen’s Perception integrated bracelet sports watch has become an enthusiast favorite since its inception thanks to their impressive guilloche dials made by a self-taught master of his craft, all at a cost under $4,000. Atelier Wen achieves this, in large part, by embracing Chinese manufacturing, something other brands that approach this segment run away from. But that’s the beauty of the micro-indie landscape: when you rethink how to solve common watchmaking problems, you wind up with uncommon watches that are truly unique.  Atelier Wen has launched their latest Perception, the Millesime 2024 Perception “Mù” at an unusual time in the brand’s history. There is more attention on watches of this ilk than ever before, and frankly it feels like there are parts of the community that are looking to shoot holes in the story At...

Albishorn Introduces the Type 10, the Next Chapter in their “Imaginary Vintage” Thought Experiment Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Oct 17, 2024

Albishorn Introduces the Type 10, the Next Chapter in their “Imaginary Vintage” Thought Experiment

One of the most interesting new watches (and new brands) to surface at Geneva Watch Days this year was the Albishorn Maxigraph, made in collaboration with Massena LAB. Now, just a few months after their debut, Albishorn is back with their second effort, the Type 10. This might seem like a rapid pace for a brand to be moving at, but once you understand Albishorn’s backstory, it begins to make a little more sense. The brand is the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet, a watch industry veteran who is currently Director of Innovation and Marketing at Sellita. There are probably few individuals in the watch space better positioned to make a quick start than Sébastien, and after chatting with him briefly about his brand and his plans for it at Geneva Watch Days, it’s no surprise to see the Type 10 surface now, and it will be even less of a surprise to know that Sébastien has a an even longer term release roadmap planned out well in advance. The conceit of Albishorn, you’ll likely remember, is that of a brand that creates “vintage watches that never existed.” These are not vintage reissues, or even inspired, necessarily, by actual vintage watches. Rather, the watches that will make up the Albishorn collection will exist as thought experiments, imagining parallel histories in which a watch like the Type 10 or the Maxigraph could have been designed, but weren’t. It’s a subtle but important twist on the notion of a vintage inspired watch, and one that, I think, shoul...

Hands-On With The Hamilton × Engineered Garments Khaki Field Titanium Limited Edition Fratello
Hamilton × Engineered Garments Khaki Oct 17, 2024

Hands-On With The Hamilton × Engineered Garments Khaki Field Titanium Limited Edition

To start this article, let me ask a quick question: can an abundance of something good lead to overkill? Let me be a bit more specific. I love the Hamilton Khaki Field collection. It’s one of the watch world’s most loved and respected series. I adore multiple models, like the white-dial Khaki Field Murph, the […] Visit Hands-On With The Hamilton × Engineered Garments Khaki Field Titanium Limited Edition to read the full article.

Celebrating 20 Years Of Patrimony With The New Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora Ïto Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora Ïto Oct 17, 2024

Celebrating 20 Years Of Patrimony With The New Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora Ïto

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony feels like a classic collection that has been around forever. However, you may be surprised to learn that it celebrates only its 20th anniversary this year. Still, it stands on the shoulders of much older VC creations in spirit and style, as we will see in a moment. To mark the […] Visit Celebrating 20 Years Of Patrimony With The New Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora Ïto to read the full article.

Fears and Garrick Reunite for a Second Collaboration, with an Assist from Collective Horology Worn & Wound
Garrick Oct 16, 2024

Fears and Garrick Reunite for a Second Collaboration, with an Assist from Collective Horology

Anyone else have a watch that you look forward to seeing on the wrist of someone else? I think if you’ve been part of this community long enough, it’s almost a certainty. Invariably a friend or colleague will own something that you genuinely look forward to seeing – that watch you hope they will decide to bring to the regular meetup that always impresses. A watch that easily slides into that somewhat niche category for me is the Fears Garrick, a limited edition collaborative effort between the two British brands that first appeared in 2022. Asher Rapkin, a co-founder of Collective, is one of the lucky owners of this watch, and whenever I run into him, be it in Switzerland for a trade show or one of our Windup Watch Fairs, I always hope he’ll have picked this watch out of the box today. It’s just such a cool concept, and a watch that’s genuinely pretty rare, so an opportunity to see it in person is kind of a special thing.  Well, the number of these watches out in the wild is about to increase just a little bit with today’s announcement of the Fears Garrick Salmon for Collective limited edition. Only five of these will be made, and as the name of the watch would suggest, this run is distinguished by a beautiful salmon dial, replacing the crisp white of the prior version. Other than that, it’s very much the same watch, which is a great thing in my opinion, as it fuses together the absolute best of two of the most interesting British watch brands.  Those att...

Introducing: The Limited-Edition Fears Garrick Salmon For Collective Horology Fratello
Garrick Oct 16, 2024

Introducing: The Limited-Edition Fears Garrick Salmon For Collective Horology

Two years ago, British watchmakers Fears and Garrick joined forces. Together, they presented the aptly named Fears Garrick. Fears ensured the watch looked charming and elegant, like a true gentleman. Garrick was there to impress us with the exposed balance wheel and the overall finishing of the watch. Now the two parties are back with […] Visit Introducing: The Limited-Edition Fears Garrick Salmon For Collective Horology to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve WatchAdvice
Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Oct 16, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve

From the Arctic to the Everyday: The New Terra Nova Evolution What We Love: The new look for the Terra Nova is suited for everyday wear. The blue gradient dial is stunning in person. Polished finishing on the case and bezel gives the watch a luxury look. What We Don’t: The constant seconds counter is oversized for dial. Movement and power reserve can be better to suit modern standards. Minute track can be slimmed down so dial appears less busy. Final Score: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.0/10 Build Quality: 8.0/10 During Watches and Wonders earlier this year, Bremont released numerous timepieces for its Terra Nova collection, with various colour schemes and strap options. This Terra Nova collection can be seen as the brand’s redirection, as in early 2023, the company announced a change of leadership with Davide Cerrato taking over the reins. But let’s take a step back and look at what Bremont was as a watch brand before this new, modern direction took over. As a watchmaker, Bremont has a relatively short history compared to some of the other luxury watch manufacturers; however, in this short span of time, they have already created some memorable timepieces. The story in which the brand was found is also quite the tale! Bremont Founders Nick and Giles English. Image Reference: Bremont.com Bremont was founded in 2002 by British brothers Nick and Giles English. The brothers were drawn to watchmaking and to ultimately created a watch brand t...

Transmission from an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Skeptic: the Citizen Tsuyosa Small Second Worn & Wound
Citizen Tsuyosa Small Second I Oct 15, 2024

Transmission from an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Skeptic: the Citizen Tsuyosa Small Second

I have a confession to make: I’m a bit of an integrated bracelet sports watch skeptic.   As the watch community went crazy for integrated, Gerald Genta inspired designs over the last few years, I largely observed from the bench. Watches like the Royal Oak, the Nautilus, and newer challengers like Moser’s Streamliner and Chopard’s reissued (and heavily redesigned) Alpine Eagle have always been curiosities at best, for me. I’ve never lusted after an integrated bracelet sports watch. It feels like that’s almost transgressive to say, or at least would have been at the height of Royal Oak mania a few years ago – but it’s just never been a real point of interest for me.  Now, part of the reason for that is certainly the prohibitive price point of many of the most sought after integrated bracelet sports watches. I don’t have thirty thousand dollars (or more) to spend on a watch, and quite frankly if I did, I think I could find other watches I’d prefer for the money.  But it’s not just the expense. I’ve never been a fan of the way these watches look on my wrist. Even if I admire the craftsmanship of a Royal Oak bracelet – because it’s honestly undeniable – something about the hard angles just didn’t do it for me.  Anyway, skeptic though I am, part of the deal when you work in the watch media world is that you just get to see and try on a lot of stuff. And so there I was at Windup Chicago earlier this year, checking out watches at the Citizen boot...

A Bold Pairing: The New Artem HydroFlex Khaki Green & Orange Strap Fratello
Oct 13, 2024

A Bold Pairing: The New Artem HydroFlex Khaki Green & Orange Strap

Adelaide, Australia-based Artem creates some of our favorite high-quality straps. The brand is known for offering sailcloth straps with a rubberized texture. These straps combine leather or rubber with synthetic materials to make a luxury product. Now the Artem HydroFlex presents sportier sailcloth looks and more flexibility. We took a look at the version in […] Visit A Bold Pairing: The New Artem HydroFlex Khaki Green & Orange Strap to read the full article.

Date Windows: Embracing Their Functional Beauty With Examples From Grand Seiko, Laurent Ferrier, Oris, And More Fratello
Grand Seiko Laurent Ferrier Oris Oct 12, 2024

Date Windows: Embracing Their Functional Beauty With Examples From Grand Seiko, Laurent Ferrier, Oris, And More

As an admittedly vain man, I understand the wristwatch as more than an instrument, embracing its jewelry-like presence. After all, the adage that men are not allowed to wear any other jewelry still rings true, especially when your partner catches another order confirmation pinging on your phone. But to me, functionality is still king, including […] Visit Date Windows: Embracing Their Functional Beauty With Examples From Grand Seiko, Laurent Ferrier, Oris, And More to read the full article.

Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward s Best Diver Ever? Oct 11, 2024

Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière

When Christopher Ward announced the C60 Trident Lumière a few weeks back, the emphasis-errr-the spotlight was put on using massive Globolight lume plots on the dial. Twelve individually molded lume-infused ceramic monoliths promised to glow like cartoon uranium studded the dial per hour. A dial they claimed cost them 4x the usual. Well, after a few weeks with the watch, while I can attest that the lume is very impressive, it’s not why the C60 Trident Lumière is successful. Rather, it’s simply because it’s the best-executed tool/sports watch the brand has made, at least that I’ve encountered. The proportions are refined, the finishing is excellent, and the aesthetic is cohesive. The C60 Trident Lumière (just Lumière from here out), like the Twelve X and Bel Canto, demonstrates that Christopher Ward is a brand operating at a level on par with or higher than big Swiss brands at an equivalent price, a function of, but not a given, with their D2C model. However, it’s perhaps more impressive in some respects than those other two watches because it’s not a showpiece. No, the Lumière is a mainline, if higher priced, offering for the brand. Which is to say, it’s a sign of what they can do on a “normal” watch and, thus, perhaps, a sign of what to expect in the future. But, enough hyperbole. Clearly, I am a bit taken with the Lumière, so let’s get into the details. $2390 Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière Case Grade 2 ...

Hands-On: The Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary Fratello
Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar Oct 10, 2024

Hands-On: The Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary

The Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary is the dressiest release from the trio of red gold beauties. Its inky black dial and traditional case design make it a beauty that can be worn in various situations. Today, we’ll look at this complicated chronograph in more detail. I remember when the Premier returned in […] Visit Hands-On: The Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary to read the full article.

Brew Launches the New Metric Star Worn & Wound
Brew Launches Oct 10, 2024

Brew Launches the New Metric Star

Brew has had quite a run with their Metric chronograph. When the watch first appeared in the summer of 2021, it was clear that the brand had a hit on their hands, but it’s grown into what I think could fairly be called full fledged phenomenon status. Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer has found nearly endless ways to change up the look of the watch with different dial colors and coatings to the case and bracelet, and an automatic version was released last year that could prove to be a jumping off point for a slew of new more complicated Metrics. Through all of these releases, the Metric has become something of a calling card in indie and microbrand watch circles. It’s kind of the ultimate approachable insider’s watch – wearing one immediately makes it clear that you are part of the enthusiast world, and not just wearing a watch to tell the time (or time an espresso shot).  The latest Metric, released just in time for Windup New York City, is the Metric Star, which is meant to evoke a more refined aesthetic, according to the brand. The new Metric Star has a gold tone dial with a brushed, sunray finish, and accents in red and blue. The outer scale for chronograph seconds is particularly clever, with a blue section highlighted against the remainder of the scale in red in the proper place for that perfect espresso shot. It’s another very nicely executed dial from Brew. This one in particular, I think, gives off a classic 70s sports watch energy. It’s the gold dial, clea...

Hands-On: the Hamilton Ardmore Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet dropped their 23mm “Mini Oct 10, 2024

Hands-On: the Hamilton Ardmore

While much of the focus when discussing Hamilton’s history centers on World War II (for good reason), the brand was making waves within its repertoire decades earlier. In the mid-1930s, the country was in the throes of economic recovery after the Wall Street Crash of 1929. Initiatives like the Social Security Act and the Works Progress Administration, created in 1935, began to reflect a positive return to some stability.  The same year, Hamilton Watch Company – then based out of Lancaster, Pennsylvania – offered a new design to the public: a handsome, fully gold watch called the “Ardmore.” This watch was manufactured for only three years and included a 14K gold case, domed crystal, and curved case design. Newspaper ads from the time show the Ardmore typically priced at $100 – steep enough, given the overall context of the Great Depression, which spanned the entirety of the 1930s. Perhaps this accounted for the Ardmore’s relatively short run. While most would agree we are seeing a trend towards smaller watches in the past few years, the last year alone has seemed to hasten the move towards the teenytiny. Timothee Chalamet is the current face of the Itty Bitty Watch Committee with his various elegant Cartiers, but brands are also driving forces in this movement. Audemars Piguet dropped their 23mm “Mini Oaks” in May of this year in various shades of gold. Cartier released the Tank Louis Mini in April. Similarly, Hamilton’s newest addition to their America...

Is The Classic Seiko SKX007 Dive Watch Still Worth Your Time In 2024? Fratello
Seiko SKX007 Dive Watch Still Oct 10, 2024

Is The Classic Seiko SKX007 Dive Watch Still Worth Your Time In 2024?

The Seiko SKX007 is one of the most popular entry-level mechanical watches ever produced, period. But is it still worth adding one to your collection in 2024, even though it was discontinued five years ago? Let’s find out. The Seiko SKX007’s popularity is no small feat, even for a large and culturally powerful manufacturer like […] Visit Is The Classic Seiko SKX007 Dive Watch Still Worth Your Time In 2024? to read the full article.